<guide>
<header id="1" name="Cloudy Bay" walk="1-1.25hrs" sun="Mostly PM" rock="Granito-dolerite" acknowledgement="By Ben Maddison" intro="There are two main climbing areas at Cloudy Bay at South Bruny Island. The first described is Hidden Zawn, a parallel sided zawn in a spectacular setting on a small peninsula jutting out into Cloudy Bay. It contains a high proportion of good quality routes on excellent granitic dolerite, including powerful trad lines, bolted steep face routes, and some elegant slabs. It is only 20-30 minutes walk from Cloudy Corner campsite. All routes are accessed by abseil. The cliff is well equipped with fixed belays, abseil points and lower-offs. It is less effected by wind than the main cliff, and has both shaded and sunny faces. <br/><br/>The second area is further on from Hidden Zawn, set high up on slabs looking over the Southern Ocean. On sunny afternoons you can see Pedra Branca and the Eddystone. The rock is generally good, hard, pockety granitic dolerite. The climbing is steep and pumpy at the Aviary, less so on the Southern Ocean Face, although here the routes have a big feel as the Southern Ocean bangs away in the zawn below. Because the crag sits on slabs 80+ metres above the sea, the rock does not suffer from the oceanic glaze that characterises many sea cliffs. It is also unaffected by tides and swell, although southerly and westerly winds can be a problem. The BoM’s MetEye function has a South Bruny station, which gives pretty reliable wind and rain forecasts. The routes are mainly single pitch, and you can get away with a single 60m rope on all sections of the crag. There are quite a few mixed routes that require a rack, but on the Aviary there are plenty of sports routes. Most of the fixed gear and lower-offs/rap stations are glued-in U bolts.<br/>" history="" access="Take the Bruny Island ferry. The drive to Cloudy Bay takes about 50 minutes. Drive down the concrete ramp and along the beach at Cloudy Bay (4wd not needed – usually very hard sand. I once saw a Barina in there) to campground at Cloudy Corner. Drive clockwise around the perimeter track to park at start of track to East Cloudy Head, marked by tap next to water tank. <br/><br/>Hidden Zawn<br/>Take the East Cloudy Head track. Follow the main track for 10 minutes, heading up a rise, and steeply down the other side. As it begins to climb again, at the second log erosion control step, take the small but well defined track on the right heading in the direction of a bay. Follow this distinct trail through the brush, until you can actually see the boulders on the beach. (Take note of where the track is at this point. It is easy on the return journey to turn up L too soon on a little worn ridge, and get mired in some deep and very thickly scrub-filled gullies.) At this point head R up the tussocky hillside, always keeping to the tussocky and/or worn ground and more or less paralleling the cliff edge. After 10 mins or so, at a cairn, cut R and straight across the hillside, passing a cliff top. Keep heading straight across the bouldery ground in direction of cliff top boulders ahead of you. Soon you get to the edge of the zawn, where you can look across and scope out the different areas. Walk around the head of the zawn and across the neck to the cliff top. Total access time <30minutes.<br/><br/><br/>Main Cliff<br/>Walk up the East Cloudy Head track, past the Hidden Zawn track, up the hill and continuing past the flat area at 30 mins, up the hill and traversing the hillside (spectacular views of the Friars Islands) for a further 15 mins, through a patch of forest. The trail to the crag is on the RHS of the main track, 15m after the forest ends and the track heads uphill for the final climb to the top of East Cloudy Head. Follow trampled trail marked by orange tapes and cairns, slanting down diagonally leftwards towards the ocean until after about 10-15 mins you reach two large cairns on a rock slab on the RHS of the track. From here there are two main ways to access the crag.<br/> <br/>Access 1: Follow cairns/tapes directly towards sea from these cairns, down beside a slab, to a fixed handline that descends a gully that leads to the bottom of the crag. Follow cliffline rightwards (facing in) from bottom of gully to reach the LHS of the Aviary. <br/><br/>Access 2: from the cairns keep traversing the hillside on the footpad track for 5 mins, until you see a post , which marks the place where you drop down to a good terrace and anchors. Fix a rope (i.e. if you choose this access, you will need to bring a rap rope) and abseil down to the Aviary in the region of Birdbrain/Blackbird. <br/><br/>The cliff top is quite rubbly and unstable, not so much a problem when you are at the top, but very dangerous if there are people below. For this reason all routes have lower-offs/rap stations. If you use Access 1 you only need to bring a 60m rope. <br/><br/><br/>" camping="The campground at Cloudy Corner has water and two toilets. Its a great spot, and usually pretty quiet, and a good place to base yourself for a couple of days trip to Cloudy. " autonumber="true"/>
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<text id="45" class="heading3">Hidden Zawn</text>
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<rect id="47836" x="424" y="146" width="89" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="Mælstrom Face" arrowDirection="south"/>
<rect id="34693" x="645" y="167" width="74" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="Bull Pinnacle" arrowDirection="west"/>
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<text id="48" class="heading2">Seaward Slabs</text>
<text id="49" class="text">On the most seaward end of the zawn is a set of slabs capped by rooves. Walk along the cliff top where it levels out, and find the 2 U bolt anchors sitting on an open slab on the edge of the cliff. Access: 50m abseil from DBB on top of cliff to small ledge 15m above sea. DBB belay.<br/></text>
<climb id="50" stars="**" extra="" number="1." name="The Noise of Time" length="65m" grade="18" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland April 2017">A slabby route offering good climbing in a great position. Originally done with cams and wires, but now all bolt protected. Take some small-medium wires for belay 2, #2 cam for belay 3, and both for the top of the last pitch. <br/><br/>Access: Rap in from anchors on top of route. 50m to rings at belay 2 using fixed rap line; then 15m with the climbing rope to the stance at P 1. If the swell is up, you may want to start from Belay 2.<br/><br/>1 15m Up groove and step L to blunt arête. (6B)<br/>2.15m Step R off ledge, and up slab trending R to belay ledge. (8B)<br/>3.27m Up groove and step R and up slab to large ledge. (12B) <br/>4.13m Up steep wall above belay on good holds, past 3 U bolts, and step R and up final crack to top.<br/></climb>
<text id="51" class="heading2">Beaufort Wall</text>
<text id="52" class="text">A wall of beautiful dark compact stone. A handful of truly excellent routes. Access: Locate DBB at top of the prominent steep slab that runs underneath the Ramps area. Rap 50m, keeping to LHS of ramp, to large platform.</text>
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<climb id="53" stars="***" extra="" number="2." name="Force 10" length="45m" grade="21" fa="Ben Maddison & Neale Smith October 2017">The diagonal line on the L of the wall. Classic jambing with great gear on excellent rock.<br/><br/>1. 25m Up the steep L trending crack. Excellent climbing with a lot of great hand jambs, foot work on the face, to a stellar finish. DBB belay/lower-off<br/>2. 20m Up wide crack on R of corner above belay, step R after steepening and up R to DBB belay. Exit up and R, with a couple of slung spikes for pro. <br/> <br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="64" stars="" extra="" number="3." name="TBC - project" length="30m" grade="TBC" fa="TBC - project">The brilliant groove/overlap between F10 and NH. Take double cams, micro to #3, 3 slings or longer draws. Great natural gear, with two U's at top. <br/><br/>1. 30m (21?) Up groove, occasionally stepping out L to move up. Two bolts get you to lower off, or slightly above, DBB on stance. <br/>2. 12m (19) The bolted arete above past 5 bolts to DBB. Exit up R with a couple of slung spikes for pro.</climb>
<climb id="63" stars="***" extra="17b" number="4." name="The Null Hypothesis" length="30m" grade="22" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland, November 2017">The bolted line on the right side of the wall. Excellent rock, great climbing. Take a couple of longer draws. <br/><br/>Pull the hard start, then up the L. trending line, steady but pumpy climbing using fins, vertical rails and layaways. Traverse 3m L at top to belay on stance with DBB. Lower off or exit up bolted arete (19, 12m) above.</climb>
<text id="54" class="heading2">Mælstrom Wall</text>
<text id="55" class="text">A beautiful wall with an adventurous feel, the first area climbed on at Hidden Zawn. The main pitches of White Noise, Maelstrom and Green Dream all start from above a little overlap that protects these routes from spray in high seas. The top of Maelstrom Wall is best identified by locating the two rap stations that lead down the wall. One is located on the seaward side of a large boulder with a prominent cairn. This gives access to White Noise, Maelstrom and the Green Dream. The other is on a slab a few metres left (looking out). This gives access to the Green Dream, Blue Devil, Coconut Corner and Finnegan’s Wake. <br/><br/>To access White Noise, position the rope down to the R (looking out) of the banksia. Abseil down the slabby wall that forms the left side of the arête that White Noise goes up on its right. After 8 m you come to the DBB at the top of P 1. You can leave a rack here – a few med wires if you are going to finish up P2 of White Noise; a full rack if you want to rap from here to do Mælstrom. (You can also get to Green Dream from this point too.) Continue abseiling on L side of arête, to double bolt belay on ledge at 30m. <br/><br/>To access Mælstrom and Green Dream from the top, position rope to L (looking out) of banksia. 30m to semi-hanging belays on double rings at foot ledges at start of both routes.<br/> To access Blue Devil, Coconut Corn and Finnegan's Wake, rap to ledge at foot of Coconut Corner.</text>
<climb id="56" stars="***" extra="" number="5." name="White Noise " length="30m" grade="21" fa="Ben Maddison /Ingrid Crossland October 2017">1. 21 From belay ledge, step R around arête and climb diagonally up R, then direct past 11 bolts to DBB stance on arête. <br/>2. 14 A nice little finishing pitch up the point of the arête, taking a few med wires. <br/><br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="57" stars="**" extra="" number="6." name="Mælstrom" length="25m" grade="19" fa="Ben Maddison & Tony McKenny June 2017">Good crack climbing. Great pro - atmospheric in a big swell!! Hence the name. Access: rap in to the zawn from anchors above route. To finish exit up WN, p. 2, or up rings of Exit pitch<br/><br/>The crack to DBB. To finish exit up WN, p. 2, or up rings of Exit pitch</climb>
<climb id="58" stars="***" extra="" number="7." name="Blue Devil" length="20m" grade="20" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland October 2017">The line between GD and CC. A steep, exhilarating and well protected outing. Take a full rack down to med wires. Crack climbing gives way to a technical and facy crux at half height. Start at DBB on ledge at foot of Coconut Corner.<br/>1. Up CC for 3 m and step L and up to foot of wide crack. Up initial crack (#3 or #4, then #4 cam), to sustained handjambing until forced L at 12m. Up (#3 cam) to crux, and finish direct past good medium wires. Pull onto slab and DBB. Either lower from here to another route, or head L then up the bolted exit route to top out. <br/><br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="59" stars="*" extra="" number="8." name="Coconut Corner " length="30m" grade="18" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland October 2017">A classic corner with great pro. Access: 30m rap from anchors in slab above Blue Devil, to ledge at foot of corner.<br/> Up bridging corner through a couple of steepenings to ledge. Up straightforward final crack to exit R on horizontal breaks to top. <br/><br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="60" stars="***" extra="15b" number="9." name="Finnegan’s Wake" length="30m" grade="22" fa="Ben Maddison & Neale Smith October 2017">Access: Rap 30m down Blue Devil to DBB on Coconut Corner ledge. Classic! <br/><br/>1. From Coconut Ledge step up and R and follow slabby line to steeper rock. Beautiful moves lead to a sharp crux at two thirds height, and L up flake and easier angled rock to lower off/ top out.<br/><br/> <br/></climb>
<text id="61" class="heading3">Cloudy Bay Main Cliff</text>
<text id="62" class="text">see access notes in Intro.</text>
<text id="30" class="heading2">The Aviary</text>
<text id="3" class="intro">Is an amphitheatre set above the slabs that roll 80+ metres into Cloudy Bay. Facing west and north, it is a sun trap, can be nice on a winters afternoon, and is quite sheltered from all but westerly and southerly winds. If its windy the routes on the left hand end are often sheltered. The Aviary has a heap of good quality routes, characterised by good rock, and quite unique climbing featuring steep flake and pocket sequences, punctuated with fingery crux sections. Most routes here are bolt equipped, although some classics such as Blackbird and Spirit Rising require gear. Routes are described left to right, and spread across the amphitheatre from the very recognisable Cloacca Crack on the left hand side, to Footnote, on the lower right hand end.</text>
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<climb id="2" stars="" extra="" number="10." name="Cloacca Crack" length="20m" grade="16" fa="G. Mortimer & P. Mills March 2016">The black and evil corner at the left end of the Aviary. The name says it all.</climb>
<climb id="5" stars="**" extra="10Þ" number="11." name=" Birdbrain" length="25m" grade="21" fa="B. Maddison & B. Bull September 2016">Start: 3m R of CC. Steep start through overlap then up groove to tricky finish. 10 B and DBB</climb>
<climb id="6" stars="***" extra="2Þ" number="12." name="Blackbird" length="25m" grade="20" fa="B. Maddison & I. Crossland February 2016">Start: 2 m R of Birdbrain. Tricky start moves past two bolts, into cracks and flake (6/7 Rock), cruxy moves past two more bolts lead into corner (medium cams) and final rooflet (finger-size cam at lip) to DBB. <br/></climb>
<climb id="7" stars="***" extra="" number="13." name="Desert Raven" length="25m" grade="23" fa="B. Maddison & I. Crossland, February 2016 "><br/>2m R of Blackbird. Great route with only 3 cruxes. Steep pockets and flakes past two cruxes and final hard move to DBB on ledge. Ignore the L of the two bolts on the final moves <br/></climb>
<climb id="8" stars="***" extra="" number="14." name="Crow" length="25m" grade="22" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland September 2016">Start: 2 m R of Desert Raven. <br/> Enjoyable climbing on flakes and pockets with a fingery technical crux at 2/3 height. Up the pockets to a hard move R and up under roof. Turn roof on the L, and up to a laybacking finish up the black arête. DBB. <br/></climb>
<climb id="9" stars="" extra="" number="15." name="Greg’s Crack" length="" grade="" fa="">The black crack R of Crow. Awaits first ascent.</climb>
<climb id="10" stars="***" extra="9Þ" number="16." name="Powerful Owl" length="" grade="24" fa="B. Maddison & I Crossland October 2016">Start 2m R of GC.<br/>Up the steep and beautifully-pocketed wall and groove above to DBB.<br/><br/></climb>
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<climb id="11" stars="*" extra="9Þ" number="17." name="Your Tern " length="25m" grade="19" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland March 2016">Start. 5 m R of Grouse, at line of bolts with fixed hangers. <br/>Flakes lead up long grey scoop, turning roof on L. DBB belay. <br/></climb>
<climb id="12" stars="*" extra="9Þ" number="18." name="Blood Eagle" length="20m" grade="21" fa="B. Maddison/Brian Burfitt September 2016">Start. 2 m R of YT<br/>Good steep face climbing up the arête line. After bolt 7, either step L into groove for a couple of moves then back R on arête or continue straight up arête (22) to DBB. <br/></climb>
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<climb>13</climb>
<climb>14</climb>
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<climb id="13" stars="**" extra="" number="19." name="Depth Charge" length="25m" grade="20" fa=" B. Maddison/I Crossland October 2016">Start: 3m R of Blood Eagle, at foot of grey corner capped by roof, with crack & flakes on L and R walls. The crack line in L wall of corner. Up steep cracks through bulge with great gear (cams and med wires), turning roof on L, past 4 bolts to DBB.<br/></climb>
<climb id="14" stars="***" extra="" number="20." name="Spirit Rising" length="25m" grade="19" fa="B. Maddison & I. Crossland March 2016">Start 2m R of DC. Good moves, great rock and gear, including a #3 cam for pocket at 2/3 height.<br/> Up cracks and flakes on R wall of corner. Where the roof starts to steepen up at 3/4 height, step R onto a foothold to gain sloping ledge and delightful short corner to DBB. <br/></climb>
<climb id="15" stars="***" extra="7Þ" number="21." name="Cheeky Monkey " length="18m" grade="20" fa="B. Maddison & B. Bull June 2016">Funky climbing up pocketed arête 2m R of SR. 7B to lower off.</climb>
<text id="37" class="heading3">The Right Wing. <br/></text>
<text id="38" class="text"><br/>North facing, and less steep than the rest of the Aviary. Some nice groove climbing on good rock.</text>
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<climb id="16" stars="*" extra="5Þ" number="22." name="Wizard" length="15m" grade="21" fa=" B. Maddison & B. Bull June 2016">Weakness up centre of black face where cliff turns corner and runs down in the seawards direction to Footnote. 5B to lower off.</climb>
<climb id="17" stars="*" extra="11Þ" number="23." name="Dyspraxia" length="25m" grade="20" fa="B.Maddison/I. Crossland October 2016">Start 3m R of Wizard.and 1.5m L of MM. Tricky past 2 bolts, then steady climbing up steep groove line. 11 B to DBB</climb>
<climb id="18" stars="**" extra="" number="24." name="Midwinter Madness" length="25m" grade="20" fa=" B. Maddison & O. Delprado July 2016">Start 4m R of W, beneath shallow corner with crack in R wall. Take med wires and small-med cams. Up corner system, then groove past 2 B to DBB/lower-off.</climb>
<climb id="28" stars="**" extra="11Þ" number="25." name="Solstice Grooves" length="25" grade="21" fa="B. Maddison & O. Delprado July 2016">Start 2m R of MM. Up starting cracks and bulges, into steep, technical groove past 11 bolts to DBB. <br/><br/></climb>
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<climb id="20" stars="***" extra="8Þ" number="26." name="Peer Review" length="28m" grade="21" fa="B. Maddison & B. Bull July 2016">Start 3m R of SG, beneath corner and runnels. <br/>1. 15m. Up cracks past 8B to DBB. <br/>2. 13m. Up steep beautiful orange box groove to DBB. Great gear – medium Rocks and cams to 2.5. <br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="21" stars="***" extra="10Þ" number="27." name="Footnote" length="25m" grade="24" fa="B. Maddison May 2016">Start: Beneath the shallow bolted groove just L of the arête that marks the start of the Southern Ocean Face; and 3M R of Peer Review. Great route. <br/><br/>Contrary face and groove climbing up an elegant open book groove past 10 bolts to DBB.<br/><br/>You can link across to Peer Review Pitch 2 from the top of this route.</climb>
<text id="31" class="heading2">Southern Ocean Face</text>
<text id="23" class="text">This area is steep and exposed, containing many strong natural lines on good rock. Excellent and demanding sport, trad and mixed routes. The inspiring position makes the routes here feel bigger than they actually are. <br/><br/>Access: Follow the bottom of Aviary cliffline across and down slabs. Southern Ocean Face begins at the point where the amphitheatre stops and turns right (facing in) i.e At Footnote. A fixed handline keeps you safe as you traverse the ledge to access the routes in the centre and right side of the SO Face. <br/></text>
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<climb id="24" stars="***" extra="" number="28." name="Chapter 4" length="45m" grade="20" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland, March 2016">Powerful climbing up a great line. Take a full rack with a fair bit of finger size gear for the first 20 m, a couple of smaller wires for the start of the groove, a sling or two and double 1-2.5 cams. <br/> Start: 1m R. of Footnote, beneath a finger crack and at a U bolt anchor<br/>1. Up the thin crack and groove on the right for 4 m, then step L into the finger crack. Great face and crack climbing in and around the crack. When the finger crack runs out step R into the hanging groove. Great moves, exposure and gear, passing a bolt. Follow line R around rooflet at top of groove and then take cracks direct to belay ledge on top. Descent: rap from rings down to Primavera rap point. Or rap down to Footnote. <br/></climb>
<climb id="25" stars="***" extra="Mixed" number="29." name="Primavera" length="28m" grade="23" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland January 2017">The line going up parallel to and R of Ch 4. Stellar!<br/>Start: 2m. 2m R of Ch 4, beside a big detached block, and at a belay bolt. <br/><br/>Up cracks with good gear to a step R at 15 m. Up increasingly steep ground past 12 bolts, to a final hard section to DBB. From here either lower/ rap the route, OR from belay step L and finish up final corner of Ch4, and descend as for that route. <br/></climb>
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<climb id="26" stars="**" extra="" number="30." name="One Billion Heart Beats " length="25m" grade="21" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland October 2016">Hueco and flake in centre of face. Start 7 m R of Primavera along ledge, where the ledge kinks up, at U belay bolt and beneath hand crack. Take cams 1-2.5<br/>Up the excellent cracks for 18m and step R and up past bolts to steeper pocket and flake climbing. DBB. <br/></climb>
<climb id="29" stars="*" extra="" number="31." name="The Turning of the Tide" length="25m" grade="22" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland, February 2017">Very good climbing, but loses a star cos it steps L into One Billion Heart Beats for a couple of moves between bolts 5 & 7<br/><br/>Start: At belay bolt for OBHB. Route is the line of 11 bolts R of OBHB<br/><br/>A couple of hard moves get you up the shallow corner to the little roof. Follow line , stepping L after bolt 5, and back R at bolt 7. Great moves up the vertical rail above, to belay of OBHB.</climb>
<climb id="27" stars="**" extra="" number="32." name="Jubila" length="" grade="22" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland January 2017">Excellent mixed route<br/>Start: Double rings at end of ledge<br/>Hard up past 3 rings to trad section. First natural gear is medium blue Offset nut on R of crack/flake). Up steep flakes and pockets (take 2 green cams) to steepening cruxy finish with 4 bolts. DBB<br/></climb>
<text id="42" class="heading3">The Grooves</text>
<text id="43" class="text">Drop down off the ledge where the handline ends, and you are at the foot of three amazing grooves of immaculate rock capped by very overhanging exits. This area extends right to the pinnacle beneath the next area to the right, Recessed Wall.</text>
<climb id="44" stars="" extra="" number="33." name="Too Groovy" length="50m" grade="24+" fa="">The left hand of the grooves. A closed project for the moment. <br/><br/>1. 30m Up the pure groove, hand crack and then desperate stemming, to a hard exit L around the room. More hard moves to DBB.<br/><br/>2. 20m The Liver pitch. Up the hard red groove line to DBB and lower off/rap point.</climb>
</guide> |