<guide>
<header id="1" autonumber="true" camping="Camping would probably be possible near the car parking area but there is no water." access="1. Drive to Buckland (about 60km NE of Hobart on the A3), turn left on the C318. After 3km, turn turn right onto Sand River Rd. About 8km along this the road takes a sharp left land turn, with some dirt tracks coming off it.<br/><br/>2. Take the right hand sandy track. You can drive along this for another 500m before it heads down hill if you have clearance, otherwise park at the start. <br/><br/>3. For the Firewall area, follow the taped trail starting to the left of old logging track, down the hill through the bracken towards the river. After about 50m, the track splits (marked by two tapes on a tree):one track leads off left to the north end of the Firewall while the other continues on down the hill to the south end. If you want to continue on to the Colosseum area from the Firewall, head off right from the south end of the wall to pick up the Colosseum marked track by Riverside Buttress, about 50m. <br/><br/>4. For the Colosseum area, walk down the old fire trail for about 50m, and then follow a taped track off left through the bracken and down the spur line, passing Riverside Crag near the valley floor.The track then turns back north up the river for about a kilometer through the dense forest which is surprisingly easy walking. Once you're down in the river bed you can't see much, but you will get glimpses of the west facing slabby cliffs up to the right. Keep following the tapes upstream to where the cliff changes direction to face north, and take the right fork of the stream. Cross the stream and follow the tapes up the hill, arriving under the massive roof of Crossing the Rubicon, about 45-50 mins walk from the car.<br/><br/>5. The Panopticon is in the next valley to the south of the Colosseum, to the SE of the parking area. Walk down the old logging track from the car park right down till the track turns to the right. Veer off left and follow a taped line down to the creek and then straight up the hillside the other side to the base of the cliff. The crag is the first major buttress to the left, about 30 mins walk from the car.<br/>" history="" intro="Sand River was discovered in 2017 by Jon Nermut and Dave Humphries and has a lot of potential for routes on surprisingly solid sandstone, in fact some of the best sandstone in Tasmania. The crags are most often dry, north facing and relatively warm in winter. This area provides the best reliable winter climbing in the south of the state. However, avoid easterly wet weather. <br/>The crags are on public Forestry land. The public land extends as far south as the Panopticon, but further south than that it's private. Don't jeopardise access by exploring, climbing or developing <br/>on private land without previously negotiating access with the landowners.<br/>The area of the crags is relatively isolated and phone reception limited. It might be advisable to take a PIRB with you in case of emergency as you might otherwise have a longish wait if things go awry.<br/><br/>PLEASE NOTE: it looks like there are Peregrine Falcon nests at The Colosseum, above the Black Sector and maybe above the Cave, and on the Panopticon cliffs. In addition there is an owl roost/nest just above the Colosseum access track as it passes under the cave on Riverside Buttress, and at least 3 wedge tails monitor our climbing on a regular basis.**Please** watch out for nesting birds from August to December, and leave the area if they present." acknowledgement="" rock="Sandstone 15 - 30m high." sun="Sunny" walk="10 - 50 minutes." name="Sand River"/>
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<text class="heading2" id="7">Barbecue Crag</text>
<text class="text" id="8">From the main road take the left fork for a few hundred metres to an open area. This quite small crag is downhill to the left. There are no routes here yet, but it's quite close to the car.</text>
<text class="heading2" id="3">The Firewall</text>
<text class="text" id="4">A beautiful little crag of steep red and orange rock. This is straight downhill from the parking area towards the river, and sits maybe 50m above the river. Follow the taped track from the parking area (this track continues to the Colosseum).<br/>Routes are described from left to right.</text>
<climb id="17" name="Lucifer Direct. " fa="Stu Scott, Tony McKenny, Justin Otlowski May 2017" grade="21" length="18m" number="1." extra="Þ" stars="*">Left Hand side of the cliff. Arête with bouldery start.</climb>
<climb id="18" name="Project stu" fa="" grade="" length="20m" number="2." extra="Þ" stars="">3m left of the above. Slab to roof.</climb>
<climb id="26" name="Glowing Embers" fa="O Gervasoni, May 2017" grade="21" length="18m" number="3." extra="9Þ" stars="*">On the left end of the main overhanging 'Fire Wall'. Boulder up the short left arete then trend right on immaculate rock to a rest at the base of a pillar. Up pillar to roof, and a strenuous pull on flakes.</climb>
<climb id="81" stars="**" extra="" number="4." name="Flash Point" length="18m" grade="26/27" fa="G Phillips 2017">The line to the left of Firewall. Bolts need glueing in . do not climb.</climb>
<climb id="19" name="Firewall" fa="Garry Phillips, Apr 2017" grade="26" length="18m" number="5." extra="Þ" stars="***">A striking line on superb rock.</climb>
<climb id="28" name="Firestarter" fa="G Phillips May 2017" grade="24/25" length="18m" number="6." extra="Þ" stars="**">Steep climbing over a series of bulges.</climb>
<text class="heading2" id="5">Riverside Crag</text>
<text class="text" id="6">Riverside Crag is a series of short walls to the south of the junction of Sand River and the fork that heads up towards the Colosseum. You pretty much go past the northern end of it on the current taped track to the Colosseum. It's a bit shadier and mossier than the other crags, but there is potential for several good routes here, and it's not that far from the car.</text>
<text class="heading2" id="9">The Colosseum</text>
<text class="text" id="10">The Colosseum is a very steep north facing crag about 50 minutes walk from the car. The rock is excellent, with some of the best steep sandstone in Tasmania.</text>
<text class="heading3" id="52">Superunknown Buttress</text>
<text class="text" id="53">Another 50m left of Terrastomp is a high vertical wall with a cave at the base.</text>
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<legend>
<climb>77</climb>
<climb>54</climb>
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<climb id="77" name="Project" fa="" grade="" length="" number="7." extra="Þ" stars="">Left arete of the LH buttress.</climb>
<climb id="54" name="Project - Jon" fa="" grade="" length="" number="8." extra="Þ" stars="">The smaller buttress to the left of the wall.</climb>
<climb id="55" name="De Double Doosh" fa="Dave Humphries Jul 2017." grade="23" length="15m" number="9." extra="10Þ" stars="**">Interesting technical climbing. Climb the wall, using the arête to finish.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="11">Terrastomp Buttress</text>
<text class="text" id="12">Head around left from the main amphitheatre, past the scramble up to the top, to the next bit of good rock.</text>
<image id="16" legendy="15" legendx="16" legend="true" height="1067" src="IMG_2852.JPG" legendTitle="Terrastomp">
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<legend>
<climb>13</climb>
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<climb id="13" name="Terrastomp" fa="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Apr 2017." grade="19" length="10m" number="10." extra="4Þ" stars="**">The lovely short arete. The first route at Sand River.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="20">The Cave Sector</text>
<text class="text" id="21">The left hand side of the Colosseum is capped by an enormous roof.</text>
<climb id="68" name="No Name 59" fa="Garry Phillips May 2017" grade="24" length="7m" number="11." extra="Þ" stars="">A very short route finishing at the big horizontal break, at the far left side of the cave.</climb>
<image id="46" legendy="18" legendx="14" legend="true" width="800" height="1067" src="rubicon.JPG" legendTitle="Cave Sector Right Side">
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<legend>
<climb>34</climb>
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<climb id="34" name="Crossing the Rubicon" fa="Stu Scott and Tony McKenny, May 2017" grade="20" length="20m" number="12." extra="11Þ" stars="**">A stunning line on great rock. The difficulties just keep on coming.<br/>Start at far right hand side of the cave. Climb up the hard bouldery corner (stick clipping the second bolt is the way to go) and hand traverse out left along the very lip of the roof. Up the thin crack to the overhang, with a sensational finish out to the left.</climb>
<climb id="50" name="Project" fa="Stu and Tony" grade="" length="" number="13." extra="" stars="">Line continuing from end of CTR traverse, then up middle of slab</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="15">The Orange Sector</text>
<text class="text" id="22">Around the middle of the Colosseum, on either side of where the creek flows down, is a sector of beautiful orange rock.</text>
<image id="47" legendy="15" legendx="623" legend="true" width="800" height="1096" src="orange_sector.JPG" legendTitle="Orange Sector">
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<climb>30</climb>
<climb>14</climb>
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<climb id="29" name="No Name 56" fa="G Phillips May 2017" grade="25" length="15m" number="14." extra="Þ" stars="***">Through the small roof to the break. Then the wall above.</climb>
<climb id="30" name="Unnamed" fa="Garry Phillips 2017" grade="25/26" length="15m" number="15." extra="Þ" stars="**">The direct of no name 56. the lower off needs glueing in. Do not climb.</climb>
<climb id="14" name="The Orange Route" fa="Garry Phillips, Apr 2017." grade="23" length="15m" number="16." extra="Þ" stars="***">On the most orange of walls in the main amphitheatre.</climb>
<climb id="48" name="Orange Route Right Hand Finish" fa="G. Phillips, May 2017" grade="23" length="15" number="17." extra="Þ" stars="**">From the small corner system half way up The Orange Route, traverse right along the break and up. More sustained but less cruxy than the Orange Route.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="23">The Black Sector</text>
<text class="text" id="24">The right hand side of the main Colosseum area is a mainly black wall with a white face covered with pockets to start.</text>
<climb id="32" name="Lions" fa="O Gervasoni, May 2017" grade="17" length="7m" number="18." extra="4Þ" stars="*">The steep pocketed white wall to DBB under main overhang.</climb>
<climb id="40" name="Fed to the Lions" fa="O Gervasoni, May 2017" grade="24" length="15m" number="19." extra="8Þ" stars="*">From the DBB on Lions, power up the 45 degree overhanging wall above.</climb>
<climb id="66" name="Way of the Dragon" fa="O Gervasoni, June 2017" grade="22" length="14m" number="20." extra="8Þ" stars="**">Classic introduction to steep sandstone climbing.</climb>
<climb id="57" name="No Name 58" fa="Garry Phillips June 2017" grade="25" length="15m" number="21." extra="Þ" stars="**">The bulge to the left of Et tu, Brute</climb>
<climb id="49" name="Et tu, Brute" fa="Garry Phillips, May 2017" grade="26" length="15m" number="22." extra="Þ" stars="**">Campus start leads to some pretty awesome moves above.</climb>
<climb id="39" name="Twenty Million Miles to Earth Project (OG)" fa="" grade="" length="9m" number="23." extra="5Þ" stars="">The overhanging arete at the right end of the Black Sector.</climb>
<text class="heading2" id="58">Plebeian's Wall</text>
<text class="text" id="59">To the south of the Colosseum, about 50m or so right of the Black Sector over a bracken covered scree, is a series of steep, relatively clean walls with some excellent routes. A taped line up through the bracken leads to the top of the cliff.<br/>The area has been developed by a commune of Plebs aka Stu Scott, Tony McKenny, Al Beech, Ivan Riley, Neale Smith and Ben Maddison, who have shared in the onerous tasks of cleaning, equipping and belaying the routes to date. <br/>The first route takes a line up the steep prow, left of an orange face.</text>
<image id="67" legendy="13" legendx="625" legend="true" width="800" height="600" src="Pleb Wall 2.jpg" legendTitle="Plebian's Wall">
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<climb>60</climb>
<climb>63</climb>
<climb>61</climb>
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<climb id="60" name="Working Class Heroes " fa="Tony McKenny and the Plebs , June 2017." grade="17" length="20m" number="24." extra="7Þ " stars="*">Varied climbing ending with an exciting steep finish on large jugs over the roof. Can be climbed on the right after the second bolt without using the wobbly rocks if you don't trust them. They have resisted a concerted effort to remove them with bars, hammers and much brute force.</climb>
<climb id="63" name="Riffraff Roof " fa="Tony McKenny and the Plebs, July 2107." grade="18" length="20m" number="25." extra="10Þ " stars="**">Terrific climbing. Starts a couple of metres right of WCH and takes a direct line up the steep glassy wall, finishing leftward via the under-cling.</climb>
<climb id="61" name="Spartacus" fa="Stu Scott and the Plebs, July 2017." grade="20" length="20m" number="26." extra="9Þ" stars="**">A steep Arapiles-quality wall leads to hard moves over the bulges. Exciting climbing on excellent rock. Magic.</climb>
<climb id="69" name="Rascal (project plebs)" fa="" grade="" length="20m" number="27." extra="Þ" stars="">Takes a line on the wall to the right of Spartacus, up the right facing corner and then traverse right on the orange wall under the roof. Finish steeply over the bulges</climb>
<climb id="64" name="The Plebeian " fa="Stu Scott and the Plebs, July 2017." grade="23" length="22m" number="28." extra="13Þ" stars="**">Technical wall climbing to the ledge, then blast on up the smooth red wall and through the roof on smallish holds.</climb>
<climb id="65" name="Plebs Rustikus Project" fa="" grade="" length="22m" number="29." extra="10Þ" stars="">Climbs the initial wall, past the flake crack and up over the right pointing overhang..</climb>
<climb id="79" stars="" extra="" number="30." name="Jacked Off (project)" length="" grade="" fa="">An easier line up to the right of PR, keeping out of the dirty corner, and finishing right at the start of the Prolatariat.</climb>
<text class="text" id="72">To the right of the top section of Plebs Rustikus, the steep and glassy wall continues from a wide vegetated ledge. Access by abseiling in or by climbing Jacked Off.</text>
<climb id="71" name="The Prolatariat. Project Plebs" fa="The Plebs" grade="" length="9m" number="31." extra="5Þ" stars="">The overhanging orange wall. Nice moves on hard water washed stone.</climb>
<text class="heading2" id="73">Minions Wall<br/></text>
<text class="text" id="74">To the right of the Plebeian Wall is a short, steep wall of excellent sandstone.</text>
<climb id="75" name="Hoi Polloi (Project)" fa="The Plebs" grade="" length="10m" number="32." extra="Þ" stars="">Climbs the shallow corners and wall.</climb>
<climb id="78" stars="" extra="" number="33." name="Project" length="" grade="" fa="">Takes the nose of the buttress to the right of Hoi Polloi</climb>
<climb id="70" name="Minions " fa="Neale Smith and the Plebs, July, 2017." grade="19" length="10m" number="34." extra="6Þ" stars="">Technical climbing on small holds, a metre right of "project". Well worthwhile and a great warm up.</climb>
<text class="heading2" id="35">The Panopticon</text>
<text class="text" id="36">Named after Panoptes, in Greek mythology; he was a giant with a hundred eyes – the views from the crag certainly are superb. Port Arthur Prison was modelled on the Panopticon - the prisoner thought they were being watched from the central watchtower even when they were not..<br/>Follow the tapes up the hill from the stream bed to a cairn and walk left along the crag base for 20m or so to the foot of the first major buttress. A fun day out for mortals, especially in winter.<br/>To the right of the cairn is apparently private land - there lie dragons so please keep off until access is established.<br/></text>
<image id="41" legendy="10" legendx="783" legend="true" height="1280" src="panop1.jpg" legendTitle="First Offence Buttress">
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<legend>
<climb/>
<climb>42</climb>
<climb>37</climb>
<climb>43</climb>
<climb>44</climb>
<climb>45</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="42" name=" Crime and Punishment " fa="Dave Stephenson, Stu Scott and Tony McKenny, June 2017." grade="16" length="17m" number="35." extra="7Þ " stars="">Climbs the left hand arête.</climb>
<climb id="37" name="First Offence " fa="Tony McKenny, Stu Scott and Dave Stephenson, June 2017." grade="17" length="16m" number="36." extra="7Þ" stars="*">Starts at base of thin crack, a couple of metres right of Arête.</climb>
<climb id="43" name="Impeachment " fa="Stu Scott, and Tony McKenny, June 2017." grade="18" length="17m" number="37." extra="7Þ " stars="*">Climbs the steep wall a couple of metres right of First Offence, finishing up the arête.</climb>
<climb id="44" name="Special Prosecutor " fa="Stu Scott, Dave Stephenson and Tony McKenny, June 2017." grade="18" length="17m" number="38." extra="8Þ" stars="">Climbs the right hand arête and trends right, sharing a bolt at mid height with Impeachment before climbing the steep head wall on the right.</climb>
<climb id="62" name="Join the Dots" fa="Stu Scott, and Tony McKenny, June 2017." grade="18" length="17m" number="39." extra="8Þ " stars="**">A good alternative combination, at about the same grade, is to climb the first section of Special Prosecutor to the shared bolt, and finish up the top arête of Impeachment.</climb>
</guide> |