<guide>
<header name="Sand River" walk="10 - 50 minutes." sun="Sunny" rock="Sandstone 10 - 30m high." acknowledgement="" intro="Sand River was discovered in 2017 and has yielded many good routes on some of the best sandstone in Tasmania. Yes, that's not saying much, but the rock here is surprisingly good. The crags are mostly north facing and sheltered from the wind, and are relatively warm and dry in winter. This area provides the best reliable winter climbing in the south of the state. However, avoid easterly wet weather. " history="The climbing potential of the Sand River area was discovered in early 2017 when Jon Nermut and Dave Humphries spent a wet day bashing through the bush and finding the crags that would become 'Eldorado' and 'The Colosseum' after noticing the escarpments on lidar maps. Realising the potential of the area, they generously arranged a tour to show other climbers the new area, and the first two routes were done - Terrastomp and Alea Jacta est. After this the rate of development was staggering. In the first twelve months, over 150 routes were completed. Jon and Dave, along with Owen Gervasoni were active, developing the 'Firewall', 'Riverside' and 'Colosseum' areas.<br/><br/>Probably the most significant development for Hobart climbing, however, was the development of 'Plebeians Wall', 'Eldorado' and 'The Panopticon' by 'The Plebs'. The development of these areas has added something not previously available in southern Tasmania, crags with a concentration of well bolted sport routes in the mid teens to low twenties. Stuart Scott, Bob Bull, Tony McKenny, Chuck McGibbon, Dave Stephenson, Ben Maddison and Neale Smith have been the main drivers of this development. While some might say that these crags should have been named 'Noosa', 'The Gold Coast' and 'The Sunshine Coast' given their obvious attraction to the retiree members of 'The Plebs', it was brilliant that the defined benefit pensions were re-invested in Sand River, rather than cocktails by the beach!<br/><br/>" access="The developed crags are on publicly owned Forestry and Crown land. Almost all of the crags are on land classified as "Informal Reserve on Permanent Timber Production Zone Land". The public land extends as far south as the Panopticon, but further south than that it is private. The range of hills to the north of the Colosseum is the southern boundary of the Buckland Military Training Area - stay out! Please don't jeopardise access, a huge amount of effort has gone into developing the crags in a short amount of time. Even if you're not putting up new routes, you can do your bit to help by (re)-cleaning routes if you find them dirty or loose and improving the tracks by clearing loose rocks and sticks, improving track markings etc, rather than whingeing about these things.<br/><br/>To get there:<br/><br/>1. Drive to Buckland, about 60km NE of Hobart on the A3, then turn left on the C318. After 3km, turn turn right onto Sand River Rd. About 8km along this the road takes a sharp left land turn, with some dirt tracks coming off it on the right. This takes a bit under an hour from Hobart. Do not speed past the farmers house as he is allowing access to the Panopticon through his land. He is friendly and has a young child and a dog that plays near the road. Slow down and wave to them. It's the White House at the bottom of the hill, about 6km from the Sand River Road turn off.<br/><br/>2. At the sharp left turn in the road, turn right into a large parking area and a continuing dirt track which has a fork after about 50m. The left fork goes to BBQ crag, the short hill goes to all other crags. If you wish to park near the road, please park only on the crag side of the road.<br/><br/>• For the BBQ Crag: Take the LH road for 250m, which is rough but passable in a car with reasonable clearance. There is limited parking when you reach the turning area at an old barbecue (now gone but the fire place is obvious). Please don't block the turning area or the track. <br/><br/>• For all other Crags: Take the RH road up the hill. If you have a 2WD, get a run-up and floor it up the hill so as not to create ruts. Continue driving to a flat clear parking area 500m further on. Please do not drive further down the hill from the carpark. It is starting to erode from vehicular traffic and is used by the farmer to access his land.<br/><br/>The tracks were initially taped but are now obvious. From the carpark walk down the disused 4WD track. Turn left ~50m down the track at the first large cairn for all crags apart from Panopticon. For Panopticon continue down the old track another ~400m until the next large cairn and also turn left. <br/><br/>Eldorado/Colosseum Track (formerly the Blue Track) - This track goes directly to the South (right hand) end of Eldorado Wall and is the main access route to the Colosseum and easiest way to the cliffs. Walk down the trail ~50m from the car park, turning left at the first cairn. You will reach the usually dry river bed ~500m downhill from the first cairn (past the LH turn to the Firewall near the Riverside crags). Continue across the river bed (heading east). The track then gradually steepens uphill for ~400m to the Southern (right hand) end of Eldorado Wall at the base of the route 'Midas' Touch. Continue North (left) along the base of the cliffs ~300m to Plebeians Wall and slightly further for the Colosseum. ~30 min. walk from the car. <br/><br/>North Ridge and left-hand Colosseum Track (formerly the Red Track) - This track provides access to the North Ridge and alternative access to the left side of the Colosseum at the climb ‘Crossing the Rubicon’. Walk down the trail ~50m from the car park and turn left at the first cairn. Turn left at the junction ~10m BEFORE the (usually) dry river bed (~500m downhill from the first cairn, just past the Riverside crags). There is a large tree fallen down over the river bed, cross here and follow the tapes North (upstream) just past the river bed. The North Ridge junction is ~500m past the fallen tree with easy walking through the valley. The junction is up a little rise where two streams meet. From here continue North (old purple/pink tape), uphill left ~500m to go to North Ridge or continue straight on East (old red tapes) to continue to the Colosseum. This track contours down the little ridge from the junction and continues upstream. Cross the stream ~300m from the North Ridge junction and go uphill, South, for ~200m to reach the Colosseum at the climb ‘Crossing the Rubicon’. The track takes approx. 35-45 mins walk from the car to Colosseum. To continue to 'Eldorado', it is an easy flat walk (about 3 to 5 minutes) right (south) along the base of the sandstone band past 'Plebeians Wall'." camping="The preferred campsite for climbers visiting the crag, especially for large groups, is just down the road at Buckland. The free campsite is directly behind the pub, (Ye Olde Buckland Inn) on Boomer Common - clean toilets, water, picnic shelter, flat site, the Road House for food and petrol and the pub for meals and grog. The publican would appreciate campers either buy a beer (or two) or make a small donation for its upkeep. <br/><br/>The CCT and local climbers would like to remind visitors and locals alike, that access is a privilege, and camping in and around the crag carpark(s) creates all sorts of problems. Please DO NOT van or tent camp near the carpark or crags - you are attracting the ire of locals, & the resident witch of the woods has been known to take unsuspecting climbers in the night. The local farmer is also very concerned about the risk of fires. Please, take the extra effort to camp at the pub." autonumber="true" id="1"/>
<text id="289" class="heading3">Crag Steward</text>
<text id="290" class="text">Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (sandriver@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.<br/><br/>Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.</text>
<image id="279" width="400" legendTitle="Stuart Scott and Tony McKenny enjoying retirement at Eldorado" legend="true" height="530" src="SRiver.jpg"/>
<text id="291" class="heading3">Safety</text>
<text class="indentedHeader" id="128">This is NOT the gym. Several serious accidents have occurred here, including, tragically, several fatalities. Particular care should be taken by new and inexperienced climbers, as much as complacency in veterans of the sport. Don't let the well-setup and conservative nature of the climbing here replace diligence in your systems. Check your knots and look out for one another.<br/><br/>• Please understand that this is a new cliff and there is still loose rock everywhere, including well-trafficked routes. A helmet is recommended, and unnecessarily sitting or standing under the cliff when others are climbing is unwise. <br/><br/>• Sandstone can be deceptive – it may appear solid when it is in fact surprisingly fragile (especially when it's wet). As a result, most climbs are bolted (U bolts, not expansion), but if establishing trad routes, be aware that apparently solid small wires and cams may simply fail, shattering off crack edges and breaking thick flakes... and please, clean new routes if you are going to claim them!<br/><br/>• Due to the relatively remote location of the Sand River Crags, the CCT has located a first aid kit hanging in a red bag from the roof of the cave at the left-hand end of the Colosseum, near where the track comes up. The kit is for emergencies only, is fairly comprehensive and has bandages for snake bite. Should any of the kit contents be used please call 0408 122 394 and replacement/s will be arranged. Climbers visiting this (and other) areas should carry their own first aid supplies and means of communication.<br/><br/>• In the event of life threatening emergency or where it is unlikely that the victim can self-extricate call 000 to alert Ambulance & Police Services for rescue. Mobile Service is unreliable but may be obtained from locations such as south (right) of Plebeian’s Wall. Consider carrying a personal location device if you are not on Telstra.</text>
<text id="288" class="heading3">Ethics & Heritage</text>
<text id="287" class="text">Please don't jeopardise access:<br/>• Don't explore, climb or develop in the Military Training Area, or on private land without previously negotiating access with the landowners<br/>• Don't block the roads, it really pisses people off. And don't leave any valuables in your car, as theft and vandalism here is a distinct possibility (although it hasn't happened yet).<br/>• There are many obvious bird roosts on the cliffs, and Peregrine Falcons and Wedge Tail Eagles frequent the area. If you find a raptor nesting, keep away from the nest and out of line of sight, and let the climbing community know on thesarvo.com or the CCT Facebook group.<br/>• No fires, either at the crag or the car park. There is a fire already lit for you in the Buckland Inn!<br/>• Keep dogs under effective control, and no dogs are allowed on the private land of Panopticon South.<br/>• Leave any fixed or stashed gear exactly as you found it - it all belongs to someone working hard to develop the crag.<br/>• Please Drive reasonably on the road in - and slowly past the farmer's white house.<br/>• Don't park on the other side of the road at the main road, and in general be considerate when parking.<br/>• Don't camp at the car park, camp behind the Buckland Inn!<br/><br/>Please bring a rope tarp and brush your feet before "pulling on". The rock polishes easily, and sand grit on your shoes is a major factor, AND...<br/>Please do not climb on the rock until it fully dries out after rain in order to avoid breaking holds (the rock becomes significantly weaker when wet). Some of the steeper routes at the Firewall and Colosseum are rain-protected, but for the most part you may need to wait a few days after heavy rainfall.<br/><br/>Aboriginal Heritage<br/><br/>All the currently recorded cliffs (2022) here were checked on the AHT register, with a result of no Aborginal Heritage having being recorded. However, climbers are asked to be on the look out for heritage and to be particularly careful to check the AHT register again if new cliffs are being explored. <br/><br/>Please note that the nearby Bluff River (5km southwest) is frequented by bushwalkers admiring the cliff aesthetics, and by the Aboriginal community connecting with country. The CCT strongly recommends climbers refrain from establishing new climbs along Bluff River Gorge and Gorge top surrounds.</text>
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</guide> |