<guide version="3">
<header id="1" access="Bulging Buttress is accessed from the climbers' carpark. Walk left along the Organ Pipes Track for approximately 400m arriving at a signposted climbers' track junction heading up a boulder field to the right (GPS MTW070). Follow this climbers' track to where it meets the base of the cliff just right of the prow. This is the Jelly Roll area.<br/><br/>Following the track left provides access to routes between SSSI and Malignant Mushroom. Access to SSSI Wall is by following the track left around the prow, then traversing across and up to enter Avalanche Couloir. For access to routes in the Black Magic area follow the track left around the prow then up slightly to the base of the cliff.<br/><br/>For routes right of the prow, the climbers' track meets the cliff at the Jelly Roll area. To access routes in the Breaker Spur area follow the base of the cliff further right. <br/><br/>To descend climbs on this buttress, there are rap anchors on Mildly Amused (35m), Heat Pump (50m), Warm Glow (50m), Black Magic (47m and 35m: or 60m to bottom of access gully) and Breaker Spur area (50m and 37m)." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="Bulging Buttress spans the wide-ranging area between Avalanche Couloir and Teardrop Gully. The buttress is divided into LH and RH sections by a centrally located prow. At the LH end close to Avalanche Couloir is SSSSI Wall, a hanging wall of quality looking lines that rises to join the main buttress to its right. Right of here on the LHS of the prow is a steep, clean wall (Black Magic area) on which several fine sport and trad routes reside. The prow has a pronounced step 25m off the ground that traverses left underneath this clean wall. On the RHS of the prow the routes are initially shorter and finish on the step. Further right the routes become longer before the cliff eventually merges into the natural continuation of Teardrop Gully. The quality of the rock right of the prow is definitely poorer than that on the LHS. " name="Bulging Buttress" rock="Dolerite walls and cracks up to 80m" sun="Not much sun" walk="20 min" camping="" autonumber="true"/>
<text class="heading3" id="17">SSSSI Wall</text>
<image id="34" width="500" height="736" src="ssssi nl.jpg" legendTitle="SSSSI" legend="true" legendx="9" legendy="11">
<drawing>
<path id="52015" points="145,670, 137,444, 137,275, 144,153,belay" d="M145,670C141.79999999999998,579.6 138.3688332115249,511.5861398190415 137,444C135.6311667884751,376.4138601809585 135.82452618089638,323.8661259084512 137,275C138.17547381910362,226.13387409154885 141.2,201.8 144,153" linkedTo="23"/>
<path id="85241" points="212,645, 215,573, 237,536, 237,473, 241,398, 291,340, 285,101,belay" d="M212,645C213.2,616.2 211.15072891396164,589.7828219351272 215,573C218.84927108603836,556.2171780648728 233.3003820690785,552.8164451405522 237,536C240.6996179309215,519.1835548594478 236.26987186508853,498.1894206544456 237,473C237.73012813491147,447.8105793455544 229.6982553266332,425.83577854736643 241,398C252.3017446733668,370.16422145263357 286.5111114064427,370.299998006512 291,340C295.4888885935573,309.700001993488 287.4,196.60000000000002 285,101" linkedTo="21"/>
<path id="12280" points="215,574, 186,463, 189,332,label 193,220, 197,43,lower" d="M215,574C214.68698637714968,556.784250743232 190.9021518239508,508.6277208229267 186,463C181.0978481760492,417.3722791770733 187.70917770116048,376.8099740882855 189,332C190.29082229883952,287.1900259117145 191.759546112127,264.8113966994119 193,220C194.240453887873,175.1886033005881 195.4,113.80000000000001 197,43" linkedTo="22"/>
<path id="58470" points="327,622, 308,465, 291,339," d="M327,622C319.4,559.2 314.41768154071633,515.4501076672979 308,465C301.58231845928367,414.54989233270214 289.0488194598011,369.5684951297827 291,339" linkedTo="20"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>23</climb>
<climb>22</climb>
<climb>21</climb>
<climb>20</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<text class="text" id="19">A clean hanging black wall located right of Avalanche Couloir that offers quality steep routes. To gain access, climb 50m up Avalanche Couloir and scramble back R to the base of the wall. Descent from these routes is by the Mildly Mused rap station (35m) which is located on the southern side of the summit blocks.</text>
<climb id="23" number="1." name="SSSSI (Seriously Searching For Sanity but Suiciding Instead)" extra="↓" grade="22" length="40m" stars="***" fa="K. Bischoff, G. Dixon, Feb 1981. FFA: S. Parsons, P. Bigg, and D. Fife freed the lower half in 1982; N. Deka and D. Stephenson freed the original aid line in Feb 1989.">A quality free route courtesy of an old aid line. At the LH end of the wall is a clean steep corner capped by a roof at 20m. <br/>1. Climb the thin corner crack to the roof. Step L and up to belay on a small ledge. <br/>2. Climb easily up to the rap station on the block above. N.B. Any old pegs on the line should be ignored and preferably removed, as they are well past their use-by date.</climb>
<climb id="22" number="2." name="Mildly Amused" extra="Þ ↓" grade="25" length="35m" stars="***" fa="R. Parkyn, Feb 1999.">This route tends to remain dry even when the others on this wall are seeping. Start as for Beaten and Abused. At the horizontal break at 6m where Beaten and Abused goes R, go slightly L and up (tricky) into the crack above until the first U can be clipped. Undercling around the flake (crux) then continue up the face and arête above. Good natural pro is available in the crack (wires and cams), then 9 fixed anchors lead to a rap station.</climb>
<climb id="21" number="3." name="Beaten and Abused" extra="↓" grade="22" length="40m" stars="***" fa="D. Stephenson, N. Deka, Pete Steane, Feb 1989.">The sustained and classic LH start to the upper crack of Crazed and Confused. Start just R of the arête to the R of SSSSI, at the base of the black streaks. Layback the thin flake to the horizontal break, then move R and climb the hand and finger crack past a couple of bulges to a second horizontal break. Step R and finish up the widening crack as for Crazed and Confused.</climb>
<climb id="20" number="4." name="Crazed and Confused" extra="" grade="22" length="40m" stars="**" fa="N. Deka, D. Stephenson, Feb 1989.">The upper half of the wall is split by a prominent crack. Crazed and Confused is the RH variant. About 15m R of SSSSI, locate a large pedestal at the base of a steep black streaked wall. Climb the LH side of the pedestal. Launch off this and up a short steep wall (crux) until it is possible to step L into the prominent crack. Climb the crack and then mount the block on the L to a belay stance.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="26">Black Magic Area</text>
<text class="text" id="27">Routes from Wizard to Warm Glow start from ground level. Routes from Lignum Vitae to Equipoise start from the prominent step, L of the prow. A 15m scramble up a weakness on the LH side of the prow provides access to the step.</text>
<image id="37" height="1500" src="Bulging Buttress nls.jpg" legendTitle="Bulging Buttress" legend="true" legendx="12" legendy="15">
<drawing>
<rect style="yellow_outline" id="8669" width="199" height="356" text="SSSSI Wall" y="226" x="32"/>
<path id="68998" points="537,467, 532,346, 501,272, 502,176, 503,134,belay" d="M537,467C535,418.6 537.826288283014,377.5590615329926 532,346C526.173711716986,314.4409384670074 506.57718266178836,303.6040350834675 501,272C495.42281733821164,240.39596491653245 501.75647830908986,192.80299667279786 502,176C502.24352169091014,159.19700332720214 502.6,150.8 503,134" linkedTo="11"/>
<path id="59028" points="165,960, 181,838, 214,731, 246,665,lower 278,592, 303,455, 321,347,lower" d="M165,960C171.4,911.2 171.62840392320965,881.7978673792855 181,838C190.37159607679035,794.2021326207145 203.68085538602114,758.4648002802822 214,731C224.31914461397886,703.5351997197178 233.7294091522732,691.6501894974067 246,665C258.2705908477268,638.3498105025933 269.64841570277156,622.7689947792626 278,592C286.35158429722844,561.2310052207374 295.4290963793189,498.1365438852762 303,455C310.5709036206811,411.8634561147238 313.8,390.2 321,347" linkedTo="14"/>
<path id="8699" points="332,663, 358,531, 378,417, 386,340,lower" d="M332,663C342.4,610.2 349.49043710753784,576.5076624249064 358,531C366.50956289246216,485.49233757509364 373.50851867029525,447.63831907048615 378,417C382.49148132970475,386.36168092951385 382.8,370.8 386,340" linkedTo="13"/>
<path id="69378" points="382,670, 422,500, 440,251,belay" d="M382,670C398,602 412.4213921920003,569.1971839922734 422,500C431.5786078079997,430.8028160077267 432.8,350.6 440,251" linkedTo="12"/>
<path id="73867" points="670,587, 654,444, 640,335, 668,308, 659,259," d="M670,587C663.6,529.8 659.1964213510321,487.64993934866965 654,444C648.8035786489679,400.35006065133035 638.4067658567212,350.4771316775651 640,335C641.5932341432788,319.5228683224349 664.2264075471774,323.09436981129056 668,308C671.7735924528226,292.90563018870944 662.6,278.6 659,259" linkedTo="9"/>
<path id="64999" points="750,1341, 718,1108, 698,943, 655,820, 613,524,belay" d="M750,1341C737.1999999999999,1247.8 726.6130293104819,1173.922801260996 718,1108C709.3869706895181,1042.077198739004 709.1378518026261,993.9158939548619 698,943C686.8621481973739,892.0841060451381 665.362170099372,871.0794031957273 655,820C644.637829900628,768.9205968042727 629.8000000000001,642.4 613,524" linkedTo="7"/>
<path id="27767" points="656,544,lower" d="M656,544"/>
<rect style="black_text_on_solid_white" id="34036" width="32" height="24" text="47m" y="91" x="513"/>
<rect style="black_text_on_solid_white" id="78434" width="32" height="24" text="35m" y="531" x="670"/>
<path id="30919" points="234,998, 283,822, 344,706," d="M234,998C253.6,927.6 264.5189292138042,871.0588424506288 283,822C301.4810707861958,772.9411575493712 319.6,752.4 344,706" lineStyle="dotted" arrow="true"/>
<rect style="black_text_on_solid_white" id="87024" width="76" height="24" text="Scramble Up" y="1009" x="198"/>
<path id="1515" points="438,251, 444,136," d="M438,251C441.0305121427807,205.0372325011596 441.6,182 444,136" lineStyle="dotted"/>
<path id="96088" points="657,257, 605,171, 531,128,lower" d="M657,257C636.2,222.60000000000002 628.9209881244076,195.490535460703 605,171C581.0790118755924,146.509464539297 560.6,145.2 531,128" lineStyle="dotted"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>14</climb>
<climb>13</climb>
<climb>12</climb>
<climb>11</climb>
<climb>9</climb>
<climb>7</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="16" number="5." name="The Wizard" extra="" grade="18" length="80m" stars="**" fa="K. Bischoff, P. Robinson, Feb 1981.">A spell-binding route that is best after a dry spell. On the LH side of Bulging Buttress and obscured in the corner is a prominent line capped by a large overhang. Scramble up over blocks to the base of the line. <br/>1. 25m. Climb up to the overhang, pass it on the L and follow the steep crack to a ledge. <br/>2. 25m. Continue up a short, awkward corner to a large ledge then straight up to base of the black corner. <br/>3. 30m. A demanding pitch. Up the vee-chimney, jam through the bulge and continue pleasantly to the top. Descend by walking down Avalanche Couloir or arranging a tape abseil.</climb>
<climb id="15" number="6." name="Cold Power" extra="↓" grade="21" length="30m" stars="***" fa="Pete Steane, D. Fife, Mar 1996.">A scary start and a pumpy finish. This route is on the wall of the buttress R of The Wizard. It might be advisable to have your belayer stay down in the gully below to avoid the 4m horizontal fall factor 1.0 from the belay. Either way, if you fall off the bottom section your gear is unlikely to hold so take your pick: risk become a gurgling bloody mess via the 4m horizontal or painlessly take the 20m death plunge.</climb>
<climb id="14" number="7." name="Heat Pump" extra="Þ ↓" grade="22" length="50m" stars="***" fa="R. Parkyn, N. Hancock, 2002.">Leave your trad rack at home. Best on a warm day. <br/>1. 25m 18. Start about 10m L of the scramble up to Black Magic. Follow the line of U-bolts past the LH end of an overlap to ledge with DBB. <br/>2. 25m 22. Classy climbing between the arête and the prominent black streak on the LH side of the steep wall.</climb>
<climb id="13" number="8." name="Warm Glow" extra="Þ ↓" grade="21" length="50m" stars="*" fa="R. Parkyn, D. McConnell, 2003.">The second pitch runs parallel to Heat Pump's second pitch and ascends the wall 2m L of Lignum Vitae (LV).<br/>1. 25m 18. Start about 10m L of the scramble up to Black Magic and climb pitch one of Heat Pump to DBB.<br/>2. 25m 21. Ascend the steep face L of the LV chimney to a ledge with rap station.</climb>
<climb id="12" number="9." name="Lignum Vitae" extra="↓" grade="16" length="80m" stars="**" fa="P. Jackson, R. McMahon, Jan 1971.">Sharpen your trad techniques on this old school number. Follows the conspicuous black chimney in the centre of the steep and impressive wall. Scramble up the weakness and just below the top of the step move left to belay at the base of the chimney 10m L of Black Magic.<br/>1. 50m. Up the groove past three ancient pitons to a ledge at 35m near the Warm Glow (WG) rap station. Bridge R and make an intimidating move into the bottomless chimney. Continue up line to a a large ledge with a bollard belay. <br/>2. 30m. Climb the chimney at the back of the ledge then up slab to a small tea-tree at the base of double-cracks in a corner. Climb the cracks and finish via the left line up a short chimney to top. Descent: A 45m rap from threaded slings reaches the WG rap station. Then a 50m rap to base of cliff.</climb>
<climb id="11" number="10." name="Black Magic" extra="↓" grade="18" length="53m" stars="***" fa="K. Carrigan, I. Lewis, Jan 1975.">A Pipes classic that is now generally done as a single pitch. Takes the line R of centre on the steep south-facing wall. Scramble 15m up the weakness to the top of the step. Climb the slab to a stance below an over-hanging crack. Jam up and over a spike then up the crack to a ledge. A thoughtful move L and up into small niche is necessary to gain the base of a wide crack equipped with finger jams. Up and step right onto the wall then back left into the crack to reach the next ledge. Continue up the hand-crack to a pea-pod. Step R at this point to the prow to locate Black Magic rap station (47m to reach top of the step). Scramble back down the weakness or use the Jelly Roll rap station (35m) to reach the ground.</climb>
<climb id="10" number="11." name="Magic Mushroom Variants" extra="↓" grade="17" length="50m" stars="" fa="Original Variant (2), G. Phillips, S. Young, Jan 2010, (1) T.McKenny, T. Meldrum, Jan 2011">Well protected (and possibly a bit easier) variants to Black Magic (BM). Climb Black Magic to just above the bulge at about 15m, and step R onto the face, past a spike, and either 1) climb the crack on the LH side of the huge detached flake or 2) traverse R another metre and climb the off-width on the RH side of the flake. Continue directly up the face above via a fist and hand crack, trending R and finishing up the prow of Malignant Mushroom to the BM rap bolts.</climb>
<climb id="9" number="12." name="Malignant Mushroom" extra="↓" grade="19" length="50m" stars="*" fa="S. Parsons, S. Brennan, Apr 1981.">A companion line to Black Magic that follows the RH end of the steep wall. Some loose rock. Belay off the Jelly Roll rap anchors on the step, 7m R of Black Magic. <br/>1. 32m. Climb up past a dangerous looking spike (or take the line just to the R) and follow the corner until level with a small roof. Traverse R on slopey rail and step around the prow. Move R slightly and up for 5m to belay on the prow.<br/>2. 18m. Up the RH side of the prow easily to the rap bolts on Black Magic.</climb>
<climb id="38" number="13." name="Equipoise" extra="↓ " grade="23" length="50m" stars="**" fa="H. Jackson , T. Smith, Feb 2013.">Climbs the arête R of Malignant Mushroom. Belay off the Jelly Roll rap anchors on the step, 7m R of Black Magic.<br/>Step R of the arête and ascend flake then arête with increasing difficulty and spaced protection to the overlap. Difficult moves past this, up past a bolt, then R to small ledge. Easier moves back on the arête lead to another ledge. Finish up RH side of the prow easily as for Malignant Mushroom to the rap bolts on Black Magic. Abseil from BM anchors.<br/><br/></climb>
<text class="heading3" id="35">Jelly Wall</text>
<text class="text" id="29">The access track meets the cliif at the base of the next routes. They climb the wall just right of the prow and finish on the step in the buttress. They can be done as access routes to climbs starting from the step or as nice single pitch climbs in their own right.</text>
<image id="41" width="800" height="1067" src="jelly.jpg" legendTitle="Jelly Wall" legend="true" legendx="21" legendy="19">
<drawing>
<path id="26201" points="34,1051, 148,730, 215,582, 243,393, 288,282, 303,213,belay" d="M34,1051C79.60000000000001,922.6 124.60293292223356,790.6255494998478 148,730C171.39706707776645,669.3744505001522 197.36833329166672,644.5460176916664 215,582C232.63166670833328,519.4539823083336 231.67245630656973,439.55154942505595 243,393C254.32754369343027,346.44845057494405 279.0682588483544,308.7952234549369 288,282C296.9317411516456,255.2047765450631 297,240.6 303,213" linkedTo="7"/>
<path id="64279" points="288,961, 351,654, 412,354, 457,188,belay" d="M288,961C313.20000000000005,838.2 326.4905534724369,773.977693888958 351,654C375.5094465275631,534.022306111042 396.7407974270743,421.0829094243714 412,354C427.2592025729257,286.9170905756286 439,254.4 457,188" linkedTo="32"/>
<path id="47022" points="440,938, 509,572, 500,430, 509,331, 556,268, 558,153,belay" d="M440,938C467.6,791.6 502.3242795162613,628.5211000956544 509,572C515.6757204837387,515.4788999043456 500,469.76329966187416 500,430C500,390.23670033812584 498.7282113566678,360.71481714678237 509,331C519.2717886433322,301.28518285321763 547.6555373676223,298.31253772578026 556,268C564.3444626323777,237.68746227421974 557.2,199 558,153" linkedTo="30"/>
<path id="39831" points="563,914, 592,510, 605,288, 636,142,belay" d="M563,914C574.6,752.4 586.0453534046426,598.752589730804 592,510C597.9546465953574,421.2474102691961 597.9122093871437,347.27970330752595 605,288C612.0877906128563,228.72029669247402 623.6,200.4 636,142" linkedTo="40"/>
<path id="67163" points="613,922, 625,698, 637,579, 661,545, 663,459, 640,422, 642,335, 654,267, 680,143,belay" d="M613,922C617.8,832.4 621.6606610525996,745.7247191232633 625,698C628.3393389474004,650.2752808767367 633.1872001596005,595.2043993216981 637,579C640.8127998403995,562.7956006783019 657.4749586259483,561.2694217263928 661,545C664.5250413740517,528.7305782736072 665.9328042963114,476.177853735538 663,459C660.0671957036886,441.822146264462 642.9098146949732,439.1817629607942 640,422C637.0901853050268,404.8182370392058 639.5153792060643,362.5083016471454 642,335C644.4846207939357,307.4916983528546 648.6375041149131,294.09471605096513 654,267C659.3624958850869,239.9052839490349 669.6,192.6 680,143" linkedTo="31"/>
<path id="48531" points="604,26,lower" d="M604,26"/>
<rect style="black_text_on_solid_white" id="16312" width="32" height="22" text="35m" y="13" x="619"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>7</climb>
<climb>32</climb>
<climb>30</climb>
<climb>40</climb>
<climb>31</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="28" number="14." name="Eye for a Line" extra="↓" grade="16" length="34m" stars="" fa="T. McKenny, I. Snape, D. Humphries, Dec 2010.">The open corner to the L of Jelly Roll has been climbed. The rock quality is as good (or bad) as it looks... Climb either up the corner or the L wall, breaking out R round the arête where the rock quality finally deteriorates to suicidal. Finish up last few moves of Jelly Roll. Descent as for Jelly Roll.</climb>
<climb id="7" number="15." name="Jelly Roll" extra="↓" grade="17" length="35m" stars="*" fa="S. Parsons, P. Bigg, Apr 1978.">Great if you are a percussionist. For the rest of us, however, the tone emitted by tapping the flakes on this route is a tad scary. This route ascends the cracked wall below the step, on the RH side of the prow. Start near the L edge of the wall. Climb the face to a crack, which is followed to gain the step of Bulging Buttress, below the start of Black Magic. Rap off bolted rap station to the R (35m) or continue up another route.</climb>
<climb id="32" number="16." name="Breakneck" extra="↓" grade="14" length="35m" stars="" fa="M. Douglas, D. Cox , Nov 1962">One of the earliest routes on the Pipes. Although the first pitch has recently (2013) had a bit of a make over, with much loose rock removed, it still requires care. Several upper pitches mentioned in the first Guide have never been identified. Start 3m R of Jelly Roll and climb the steep and in places loose crack. Finish on the step.</climb>
<climb id="30" number="17." name="Smoke and Mirrors " extra="↓" grade="15/19" length="35m" stars="*" fa="I. Snape and T. McKenny, V. Keller, Dec. 2012.">Start about 5m R of Jelly Roll, in the middle of the wall on good rock (directly under the lower abseil line from the step). Climb straight up the wall, either trending L at the final overhang and finishing up the last few metres of the Breakneck crack (15), or climb the roof direct and the terrific steep wall above (19). Finish up on the step at the rap station.</climb>
<climb id="40" number="18." name="Dal Nulla" extra="" grade="14" length="35m" stars="" fa="Phil Robinson, Chris (Basil) Rathbone May 2013.">The corner cleft 2m R of Smoke and Mirrors. Worth a look. Traditional so watch out. Bridging and good holds lead past a jammed block to a bulge and short exit chimney. From the ledge head L and up to the Black Magic rap bolts.</climb>
<climb id="31" number="19." name="Crucio" extra="↓" grade="17" length="30m" stars="*" fa="T. McKenny, (Prof.) I. Snape, Dec 2012.">Professor Snape weaves his magic spells again.... Takes a spellbinding line up the face of the pillar 5m to the R of Smoke and Mirrors, to L of Breaker Spur. Climb the open book corner and then the exciting steep wall above, trending slightly R then L to gain the finger crack. Finish up LH arête and wide crack above to the ledge and tree belay. Descent via the Black Magic rap station (traverse 2m L and up: 35m)<br/></climb>
<text class="heading3" id="25">Breaker Spur Area</text>
<text class="text" id="42">The next climbs start to the right of Jelly Wall.</text>
<image id="43" width="1000" height="1217" src="breaker-spur.jpg" legendTitle="Breaker Spur Area" legend="true" legendx="8" legendy="9">
<drawing>
<rect style="yellow_outline" id="69260" width="232" height="404" text="Farewell to Arms" y="42" x="752"/>
<path id="4545" points="149,1137,label 167,818, 172,720, 212,659, 236,587, 251,507, 267,438,label 321,436, 341,386,belay 304,372, 305,341," d="M149,1137C156.20000000000002,1009.4 164.83836297929741,857.191419027521 167,818C169.16163702070259,778.808580972479 164.0541549520081,748.0753191695713 172,720C179.9458450479919,691.9246808304287 199.34803992883258,685.2923545228948 212,659C224.65196007116742,632.7076454771052 228.45520019742645,616.4053735895174 236,587C243.54479980257355,557.5946264104826 245.22893843895963,534.7383281482263 251,507C256.77106156104037,479.2616718517737 251.82480011730553,453.39198845244726 267,438C282.17519988269447,422.60801154755274 303.3756114743051,448.3847054504883 321,436C338.6243885256949,423.6152945495117 345.0623869162403,401.2936919199636 341,386C336.9376130837597,370.7063080800364 311.7502478323867,381.68780979048336 304,372C296.2497521676133,362.31219020951664 310.71090185522394,329.9861178506396 305,341" linkedTo="4"/>
<path id="94190" points="334,236, 400,214, 408,190, 433,167, 428,30,label" d="M334,236C360.4,227.2 391.40583676393476,219.34231768728378 400,214C408.59416323606524,208.65768231271622 402.1851489770031,198.28175751760168 408,190C413.8148510229969,181.71824248239832 431.31458747346073,180.48330021231394 433,167C434.68541252653927,153.51669978768606 430,84.80000000000001 428,30" linkedTo="4"/>
<path id="8320" points="" d=""/>
<rect style="black_text_on_solid_white" id="27088" width="32" height="22" text="37m" y="391" x="391"/>
<path id="96632" points="66,451, 123,366, 159,250, 183,159, 193,141, 199,92,belay" d="M66,451C88.8,417 105.80984792270974,403.15290932833705 123,366C140.19015207729026,328.84709067166295 148.51987699952818,286.1564243516278 159,250C169.48012300047182,213.84357564837222 180.54736453470414,166.8628607563897 183,159C185.45263546529586,151.1371392436103 191.08686862595036,149.01123762883282 193,141C194.91313137404964,132.98876237116718 196.6,111.6 199,92" linkedTo="38"/>
<path id="19455" points="336,236, 319,282, 304,340," d="M336,236C329.2,254.4 324.76888204074237,263.2511333675873 319,282C313.23111795925763,300.7488666324127 309.71090185522394,328.9861178506396 304,340" lineStyle="dotted" arrow="false"/>
<path id="29771" points="190,1139,label 209,829, 225,769, 250,731, 308,756,belay 313,637,label 324,458, 361,435, 381,405,lower 357,304,label 319,229,belay" d="M190,1139C197.6,1015 206.6608374472979,853.7282898428508 209,829C211.3391625527021,804.2717101571492 217.9777981052523,785.7847752606165 225,769C232.0222018947477,752.2152247393835 232.02464392843112,733.8154172160289 250,731C267.9753560715689,728.1845827839711 293.9349018370484,776.9860194812293 308,756C322.0650981629516,735.0139805187707 310.44571939142304,684.5734763347461 313,637C315.55428060857696,589.4265236652539 319.97124928444237,474.9543259279717 324,458C328.02875071555763,441.0456740720283 350.43810395484456,444.8207103577761 361,435C371.56189604515544,425.1792896422239 381.14567140814586,419.42146940643875 381,405C380.85432859185414,390.57853059356125 368.17419608931175,335.7202985761107 357,304C345.82580391068825,272.2797014238893 334.2,259 319,229" linkedTo="39"/>
<path id="89083" points="541,1054, 524,773, 534,658, 511,544, 466,480, 380,403, 468,413, 464,366, 461,318, 476,254, 448,194,belay" d="M541,1054C534.2,941.6 524.8160722557622,819.1663733259759 524,773C523.1839277442378,726.8336266740241 536.6169944498565,704.0993637705492 534,658C531.3830055501435,611.9006362294508 522.1680906497307,573.2341196419422 511,544C499.83190935026926,514.7658803580578 487.30076803957184,502.92678086702006 466,480C444.69923196042816,457.07321913297994 380.14567140814586,417.42146940643875 380,403C379.85432859185414,388.57853059356125 450.73290293797027,420.60574513446545 468,413C485.26709706202973,405.39425486553455 465.3865120602394,384.8169493889634 464,366C462.6134879397606,347.1830506110366 458.95057292784406,337.12798600678894 461,318C463.04942707215594,298.87201399321106 478.7415748890567,280.1504066340792 476,254C473.2584251109433,227.84959336592078 459.2,218 448,194" linkedTo="33"/>
<path id="41805" points="626,1053, 595,606, 567,426, 555,189, 521,132, 514,12,belay" d="M626,1053C613.6,874.1999999999999 601.8264441312493,678.5454316998868 595,606C588.1735558687507,533.4545683001132 573.9575990922453,498.5329705366572 567,426C560.0424009077547,353.4670294633428 559.1038510742832,215.22896121389684 555,189C550.8961489257168,162.77103878610316 526.9909272007452,157.86327108614398 521,132C515.0090727992548,106.13672891385602 516.8,60 514,12" linkedTo="32"/>
<path id="88226" points="" d=""/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>38</climb>
<climb>32</climb>
<climb>4</climb>
<climb>39</climb>
<climb>33</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="5" number="20." name="Breaker Chimney" extra="↓" grade="14" length="108m" stars="" fa=" T. Terry, K. Hall, Mar 1968. Direct finish: Basil Rathbone, P. Robinson, Apr 1979.">The prominent chimney high on the face to the R of Malignant Mushroom and L of Breaker Spur, Start 20m north of the nose of the buttress, as for Breaker Spur. <br/>1. 36m. As for Breaker Spur. <br/>2. 12m. Follow a short chimney just L of the crest, swing L and up a short nose to gain a terrace (as for Breaker Spur). <br/>3. 30m. Traverse L to the foot of the chimney, which is followed to a broad ledge. <br/>4. 30m. Two alternatives: (a) Original route: traverse L along the ledge and continue heading up, keeping towards the L skyline. Move R and scramble to the top; (b) Direct finish: follow the line directly above the chimney past a chockstone. Abseil via the Black Magic rap station.</climb>
<climb id="4" number="21." name="Breaker Spur" extra="↓" grade="15" length="101m" stars="*" fa="M. Douglas, J. Fairhall, Jun 1967.">A classic alpine style route, mostly following the prominent and narrow vertical rib 20m R of the prow. Start at the crack at the very foot of the spur.<br/>1. 36m. Climb the crack and then the rib mainly to the L of the arête. At the 1st platform, walk a couple of metres to the RH end of the blank wall and climb up and R to a 2nd platform. Belay at the LH end of the 2nd platform, on the crest of the spur.<br/>2. 24m. Up a short chimney just L of the crest, passing an old rusty peg (still there 2012), and climb a short nose to a terrace. Continue up towards a prominent corner.<br/>3. 26m. Various alternatives, all a bit vegetated: <br/> (a) Climb straight up the corner for 8-10m, move R into the next line and follow this to a ledge with two U bolts on the wall. (Climbed and cleaned in Nov. 2012)<br/> (b) Climb straight up the crack and follow the corner to a ledge.<br/> (c) Move L up the chimney and exit through the bulge;<br/> (d) Move L and up the rib on sloping ledges;<br/> Either abseil from the U bolts to the RH end of the 2nd platform (top of pitch1, 50m) followed by a 2nd abseil (two U bolts,37m) to the ground or<br/>4. 15m. Up the gully to the L over a couple of jammed blocks to a big established gum. Traverse L round the corner to a short gully above the Black Magic rap bolts. Climb down to the bolts and abseil off.</climb>
<climb id="39" number="22." name=" Indian Summer " extra="" grade="16" length=" 49m" stars="**" fa="T. McKenny, P. Robinson (alt), April 2013.">Short, entertaining and varied pitches on generally sound, steep rock. A large cam is really comforting on the second pitch. Start at the toe of the spur, just to the R of Breaker Spur crack line.<br/>1. 20m 15. Climb easily up the horizontals and then straight up the face of the spur to below a small roof. Hand traverse R and up to belay in the bottom of the corner.<br/>2. 17m 15. Follow the crack, with its hidden surprises, and pull up over the jammed block. From the RH end of the platform climb up and R to DBB. <br/>3. 12m 16. Climb the crack on the L till a move can be made out onto the LH arête, keeping the hollow sounding flakes well to the R. Exposed climbing up the arête and wall to belay on a fin of rock. Finish up Breaker Spur or rap off.<br/>Descent: Rap from fin (sling, 12m) back to the 2nd belay, then to the bottom (37m). <br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="33" number="23." name="Cracked Pepper" extra="" grade="17" length="46m" stars="**" fa="I. Snape, T. McKenny (alt.), A. Adams, Dec 2012.">Access to the route involved significant floral landscaping! A strong line up the L facing black corner 10m R of Breaker Spur. Scramble up steeply to start at the "ledge" on the L. Possibly best climbed as one long sustained pitch - but take plenty of mid-sized cams.<br/>1. 26m 17. Easy climbing up to the base of the crack which is climbed using the L face and R arête until face holds on the L wall lead to the hakea above the small roof. Climb past tree and up and L to triple bolt belay.<br/>2. 20m 16. Step back R into the corner and climb the terrific crack line, gently over the Sword of Damocles, to belay at a spike on a ledge on the L. Abseil from spike down the line (tape - 45m).</climb>
<climb id="3" number="24." name="Breakout" extra="" grade="13" length="105m" stars="" fa="G. Kowalik, P. Robinson, Mar 1979.">Scene of the departure of a very large rock. On the wall 10m R of Breaker Spur find a bottomless chimney about 30m above the ground. Now heavily vegetated.<br/>1. 24m. Up a series of loose, vegetated walls to a tree covered ledge beneath the chimney. <br/>2. 30m. Climb the bottomless chimney and up the line to belay on a large ledge. <br/>3. 27m. Up the walls above, trending slightly L at the top to a jam crack. <br/>4. 24m. Easier climbing to the top.</climb>
</guide>
|