<guide>
  <header name="Apsley Edge" id="1" walk="" sun="" rock="" acknowledgement="Based on the original guide by Peter Jackson, published in 1982. " intro="A small south facing row of sandstone buttresses situated north of Apsley near the Jordan River valley. The setting is picturesque above a bracken covered hillside and topped by open forest with sculptural boulders behind. The routes vary in length from 10 to 30m.&lt;br/&gt;All the rock is soft, but not always friable. Many small holds are doubtful. The southerly aspect has produced damp conditions and very lichenous faces requiring lengthy preparation for new routes.&lt;br/&gt;Natural protection can be a problem except in wider cracks. Small crevices afford RP placements but their ultimate holding power must be assessed against the softness of the rock. Bolts have been used for protection on some climbs.&lt;br/&gt;It is hoped that bolting is not abused in the future. Even more so, it is hoped that the cliffs are valued as the enjoyable environment they were when discovered. Their charm and that of their surroundings add up to a local character and it would be a pity if the place became reduced to a careless collection of rock problems.&lt;br/&gt;Smashing of vegetation, boulder rolling and other “fun” activities could destroy a special place." history="Discovered and conceived as a possibility by Noel Ward in 1981. He made one reconnaissance and then returned with Bob De Cesare to clean several lines. The Jackson family (Peter, Marcelle and Hamish) went on the next trip when several lines were done, including Ward’s lead of the best line on the cliff, Shadowfax.&lt;br/&gt;Doug Fife visited the cliff in summer, repeated Shadowfax and added two routes, one solo. The general impression faded.&lt;br/&gt;Then in the depth of winter which must be the worst time to climb there, Ward and Jackson began again. The definitive “secret cliff” syndrome became apparent, and over a few months a dozen or so routes were done Extensive cleaning was necessary, sometimes involving a whole trip. Fife joined forces repeating several routes solo and adding the poorly protected “Winged”.&lt;br/&gt;The use of bolts prompted speculation about protection. Soloing some of the routes obviated the point, and so a new grade was introduce, the “Seriousness Grade”.( Ed note: The Ewbank system of grading allows for comment on “Seriousness” in the route description but the Jackson version is included here for historical relevance).&lt;br/&gt;The Seriousness Grade&lt;br/&gt;S1 – No seriousness.  Always potential for good protection&lt;br/&gt;S2 – Reasonable protection.  Wide range of runouts with good runners. Most climbs are in this category&lt;br/&gt;S3 - Poor protection. Runners likely to fail, impact likely. Very long runouts.&lt;br/&gt;S4 – Extremely seriousness.  All protection doubtful. Ground falls or similar probable&lt;br/&gt;S5 – No protection of any sort (solo ascents)" access="This guide is included on Thesarvo at the moment as a historical record until the access issues are sorted out. If you do visit it, then please try to negotiate with the owners of the land and access paddocks for future use by members of the CCT and wider climbing community. A reminder that these cliffs probably haven’t been climbed on for years and would need extensive re-cleaning...  and that the bolts etc mentioned are now 35 years old.&lt;br/&gt;Turn off the Midland Highway at Melton Mowbray and then take the Lower Marshes Road to the right. When it crosses the Jordan River for the second time, you will see a small white weatherboard house (green roof) on the right. This is owned by the Porters from whom permission must be gained for access.&lt;br/&gt;Drive up and around the pines on the right, and then head back left up the hill across the paddock to the top left-hand corner. Park here.&lt;br/&gt;Cross the fence, past a tin shed and walk up hill to the ridge running south east. Continue up the ridge until a small col arrives on the left and a section of crag can just be seen in profile. Head for the crags which remain out of view around the corner (15 – 20 mins).&lt;br/&gt;The cliffs are not on the Porter’s property and although the owner has given permission to Noel Ward to investigate the cliffs it is understood that his land will not be damaged. " camping="" autonumber="false"/>
  <image id="2" src="Apsley cover edited.jpg" height="499" width="800"/>
  <image id="3" src="Apsley 1 edited.jpg" height="535" width="800"/>
  <image id="4" src="Apsely 2 edited.jpg" height="1022" width="800"/>
</guide>