<guide> <text class="heading1" new="false" id="1">Other Eastern Crags</text> <text class="text" new="false" id="2">This section contains information about other crags in the East of Tasmania for which we do not have full guides for.</text> <text class="heading2" new="false" id="3">Orford</text> <text class="text" new="false" id="4">Paradise Gorge at Orford has a number of established routes, but we don't have any details. Its surprising it hasn't been developed more as its only an hour from Hobart and extremely obvious. There are a number of short (10m or so) buttresses - next to the road, near the weir, and on the opposite side of the river. The most obvious buttress on the south side of the road has a couple of OK cracks and a hard face route with a carrot or two (or was it a piton?). Be very careful climbing near the highway - as there are plenty of loose rocks waiting to land on cars below.</text> <text class="heading2" new="false" id="5">Red Rock Point</text> <text class="text" new="false" id="6">There is a little bolted granite crag at Red Rock Point, which is about half an hour north of Bicheno. There are about half a dozen bolted routes here, but I have no details of the routes, or who developed them. Traveling north, go a couple of km past the Little Beach turn off until you see a fancy gate on the right with "Red Rock Point" on it. Go past this until the fence finishes, and turn right onto a 4WD track. Follow this down to a dam, and take the track down to the coast. The main crag (Mason's Mansion) is just to the south, and there is another route on a little pinnacle 100m or so north. It is the largest and most developed of a band of good quality, but small series of granitic cliffs that spread south to north, from Red Rock Point to Ironhouse Point.</text> <image new="false" noPrint="false" src="redrockpoint.jpg" width="" id="7" legend="true" legendTitle="Mason's Mansion" legendx="5" legendy="5" height="531"/> <text id="35" class="heading3">House Cliff</text> <text id="11">A few hundred metres south of Mason's Mansion towards Red Rock Point is a small cliff directly below the angular shaded house on the headland.</text> <climb id="12" grade="13" length="8m" fa="Ashley Mason 1995" name="Piece of Flake">Climb a flake crack just left of a smooth blank slab (top roped at 22/3) directly below the house.</climb> <climb id="13" length="10m" grade="15" fa="Nick Hancock & Ashley Mason, Aug 2011" number="" name="Hand-some" stars="*">Climb the hand crack on the highest section of the crag.</climb> <text id="14">Masons Mansion</text> <climb id="15" name="Cat Flap" grade="14" length="7m" fa="Ashley Mason 2003">At left end of crag climb left trending juggy crack.</climb> <climb id="16" name="Can I Play Too" grade="22" length="10m" fa="Norm Selby & Ashley Mason 2003">To the left of main corner on upper ledge, climb to bolt, step L and up.</climb> <climb id="18" grade="22" fa="Norm Selby & Ashley Mason 2003" length="10m" stars="" extra="" number="" name="">Start down at sea level. Climb roof with bolt and up up slab.</climb> <climb id="19" name="Edna Crevice" length="10m" grade="20" fa="Ashley Mason, Norm Selby & Rob DeCesare 2003">Next bolted lie to R climb roof to groove.</climb> <climb id="34" name="Three Steps to Heaven" length="10m" grade="17" fa="Ashley Mason & Norm Selby 2003">Climb the main L facing corner above the 3 metre step up.</climb> <climb id="20" grade="21" length="15m" fa="Ashley Mason & Norm Selby 2003">Climb to bolt, trend up L to steep wall (1 cam).</climb> <climb id="21" grade="19" length="15m" fa="ASshley Mason & Norm Selby 2003">Same start but trend R up slab past bolt.</climb> <climb id="22" length="15m" grade="18" fa="Ashley Mason & Norm Selby 2003">Start at bottom of brown streak, up L bast bolts onto slab.</climb> <climb id="23" name="Mason's Downfall" length="15m" grade="23" fa="Norm Selby & Ashley Mason 2003" stars="**" extra="" number="">Climb somewhat boldly up brown streak past bolts.</climb> <climb id="36" stars="*" extra="" number="" name="White Men Can Jump" length="10m" grade="23" fa="Nick Hancock October 2006">Jump for the break and a cam placement, then continue carefully to the top.</climb> <climb id="24" name="Remember the Armenians" length="10m" grade="22" fa="Nick Hancock Mar 2004">At R end of crag dyno to break. Travers R to arete and up.</climb> <text id="25">Terrace Wall As you arrive at the coast as for Mason's Mansion, head L (north) for 50m, to a smaller wall with a good boulder traverse.</text> <climb id="26" length="8m" grade="15" fa="Ashley Mason & Norm Selby 2003">Climb the thin crack up the highest part of the wall.</climb> <climb id="27" fa="Ashley Mason & Nick Hancock 2004" name="Capain Pugwash" length="7m " grade="21" number="*">From sea level climb the slab past a bolt finishing either L or R.</climb> <climb id="28" fa="Ashley Mason & Nick Hancock 2004" name="Master Bates" length="7m" grade="21" number="*">Climbs flake crack just R of bolted slab.</climb> <climb id="29" name="Roger the Cabin Boy" length="6m " grade="24" fa="Nick Hancock & Ashley Mason 2004" number="**">Five metres R, step left off the block and climb the wall directly, past some small cams, to a scary finish.</climb> <climb id="30" name="Gravity don't get you high" length="7m" grade="15" fa="Nick Hancock Aug 2011">Climb the highest thin crack 15 metres R of RTCB.r</climb> <text id="31">Iron House Point Just south of the point is a hidden zawn with a great bolted climb featured in Rock magazine.</text> <climb id="32" name="Mad Dogs & Englishmen" length="20m " grade="22" number="***" fa="Ashley Mason, Heather & Nick Hancock 2005" stars="" extra="">Abseil into a hanging belay on a bolt. Traverse L with a thin move, then up over a bulge, fully bolted.</climb> <climb id="33" length="7m" grade="16" name="High Times" fa="Ashley Mason 2004">A hundred metres north, climb a clean face.</climb> <text id="37" class="text">Bay of Fires- Binalong Bay <br/>There are a few smaller climbs on the excellent granite of this area.</text> <climb id="38" stars="" extra="" number="" name="Ashley Big Fat Crack" length="7m" grade="18" fa="Ashley Mason, 1990's">Facing out to sea is a large buttress with a wide crack, climb this.</climb> <climb id="39" stars="" extra="" number="" name="Skeleton Fingers" length="7m" grade="22" fa="Nick & Heather Hancock, 2006">At Skeleton Point climb the south east facing short finger crack over the bulge.</climb> <climb id="40" stars="**" extra="" number="" name="Ruby in the Dust" length="10m" grade="22" fa="Nick & Heather Hancock, Ashley Mason, 2007 ">Just south of the turn off for Sloop Rock , head down to the coast at the sign, Gardens 6. On a massive orange rock half in the sea. Climb a slab on the north face past 2 glued carrots. Mind numbingly thin for the grade!</climb> <text class="heading2" new="false" id="8">South Mt Cameron</text> <text class="text" new="false" id="9">South Mount Cameron, along the (B82) road off the Tasman Hwy, between Derby and Weldborough, has quite a bit of coarse grained granite. There are some reasonable sized faces, but no known routes. You could be the first.</text> </guide> |