<guide version="3">
<header access="Bulging Buttress is accessed from the climbers' carpark. Walk left along the Organ Pipes Track for approximately 400m arriving at a signposted climbers' track junction heading up a boulder field to the right (GPS MTW070). Follow this climbers' track to where it meets the base of the cliff just right of the prow. This is the Jelly Roll area.<br/><br/>Following the track left provides access to routes between SSSI and Malignant Mushroom. Access to SSSI Wall is by following the track left around the prow, then traversing across and up to enter Avalanche Couloir. For access to routes in the Black Magic area follow the track left around the prow then up slightly to the base of the cliff.<br/><br/>For routes right of the prow, the climbers' track meets the cliff at the Jelly Roll area. To access routes in the Breaker Spur area follow the base of the cliff further right. <br/><br/>To descend climbs on this buttress, there are rap anchors on Mildly Amused (35m), Heat Pump (50m), Warm Glow (50m), Black Magic (47m and 35m: or 60m to bottom of access gully) and Breaker Spur (50m and 35m)." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="Bulging Buttress spans the wide-ranging area between Avalanche Couloir and Teardrop Gully. The buttress is divided into LH and RH sections by a centrally located prow. At the LH end close to Avalanche Couloir is SSSSI Wall, a hanging wall of quality looking lines that rises to join the main buttress to its right. Right of here on the LHS of the prow is a steep, clean wall (Black Magic area) on which several fine sport and trad routes reside. The prow has a pronounced step 25m off the ground that traverses left underneath this clean wall. On the RHS of the prow the routes are initially shorter and finish on the step. Further right the routes become longer before the cliff eventually merges into the natural continuation of Teardrop Gully. The quality of the rock right of the prow is definitely poorer than that on the LHS. " name="Bulging Buttress" rock="Dolerite walls and cracks up to 80m" sun="Not much sun" walk="20 min" id="1" camping="" autonumber="true"/>
<text class="heading3" id="17">SSSSI Wall</text>
<image id="34" src="ssssi nl.jpg" legend="true" legendTitle="SSSSI" width="500" legendx="9" legendy="11" height="736">
<drawing>
<path id="52015" points="145,670, 137,444, 137,275, 144,153,belay" d="M145,670C141.79999999999998,579.6 138.3688332115249,511.5861398190415 137,444C135.6311667884751,376.4138601809585 135.82452618089638,323.8661259084512 137,275C138.17547381910362,226.13387409154885 141.2,201.8 144,153" linkedTo="23"/>
<path id="85241" points="212,645, 215,573, 237,536, 237,473, 241,398, 291,340, 285,101,belay" d="M212,645C213.2,616.2 211.15072891396164,589.7828219351272 215,573C218.84927108603836,556.2171780648728 233.3003820690785,552.8164451405522 237,536C240.6996179309215,519.1835548594478 236.26987186508853,498.1894206544456 237,473C237.73012813491147,447.8105793455544 229.6982553266332,425.83577854736643 241,398C252.3017446733668,370.16422145263357 286.5111114064427,370.299998006512 291,340C295.4888885935573,309.700001993488 287.4,196.60000000000002 285,101" linkedTo="21"/>
<path id="12280" points="215,574, 186,463, 189,332,label 193,220, 197,43,lower" d="M215,574C214.68698637714968,556.784250743232 190.9021518239508,508.6277208229267 186,463C181.0978481760492,417.3722791770733 187.70917770116048,376.8099740882855 189,332C190.29082229883952,287.1900259117145 191.759546112127,264.8113966994119 193,220C194.240453887873,175.1886033005881 195.4,113.80000000000001 197,43" linkedTo="22"/>
<path id="58470" points="327,622, 308,465, 291,339," d="M327,622C319.4,559.2 314.41768154071633,515.4501076672979 308,465C301.58231845928367,414.54989233270214 289.0488194598011,369.5684951297827 291,339" linkedTo="20"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>23</climb>
<climb>22</climb>
<climb>21</climb>
<climb>20</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<text class="text" id="19">A clean hanging black wall located right of Avalanche Couloir that offers quality steep routes. To gain access, climb 50m up Avalanche Couloir and scramble back R to the base of the wall. Descent from these routes is by the Mildly Mused rap station (35m) which is located on the southern side of the summit blocks.</text>
<climb extra="↓" grade="22" length="40m" name="SSSSI (Seriously Searching For Sanity but Suiciding Instead)" number="1." stars="***" id="23" fa="K. Bischoff, G. Dixon, Feb 1981. FFA: S. Parsons, P. Bigg, and D. Fife freed the lower half in 1982; N. Deka and D. Stephenson freed the original aid line in Feb 1989.">A quality free route courtesy of an old aid line. At the LH end of the wall is a clean steep corner capped by a roof at 20m. <br/>1. Climb the thin corner crack to the roof. Step L and up to belay on a small ledge. <br/>2. Climb easily up to the rap station on the block above. N.B. Any old pegs on the line should be ignored and preferably removed, as they are well past their use-by date.</climb>
<climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="25" length="35m" name="Mildly Amused" number="2." stars="***" id="22" fa="R. Parkyn, Feb 1999.">This route tends to remain dry even when the others on this wall are seeping. Start as for Beaten and Abused. At the horizontal break at 6m where Beaten and Abused goes R, go slightly L and up (tricky) into the crack above until the first U can be clipped. Undercling around the flake (crux) then continue up the face and arête above. Good natural pro is available in the crack (wires and cams), then 9 fixed anchors lead to a rap station.</climb>
<climb extra="↓" grade="22" length="40m" name="Beaten and Abused" stars="***" id="21" fa="D. Stephenson, N. Deka, Pete Steane, Feb 1989." number="3.">The sustained and classic LH start to the upper crack of Crazed and Confused. Start just R of the arête to the R of SSSSI, at the base of the black streaks. Layback the thin flake to the horizontal break, then move R and climb the hand and finger crack past a couple of bulges to a second horizontal break. Step R and finish up the widening crack as for Crazed and Confused.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="22" length="40m" name="Crazed and Confused" number="4." stars="**" id="20" fa="N. Deka, D. Stephenson, Feb 1989.">The upper half of the wall is split by a prominent crack. Crazed and Confused is the RH variant. About 15m R of SSSSI, locate a large pedestal at the base of a steep black streaked wall. Climb the LH side of the pedestal. Launch off this and up a short steep wall (crux) until it is possible to step L into the prominent crack. Climb the crack and then mount the block on the L to a belay stance.</climb>
<text id="26" class="heading3">Black Magic Area</text>
<text id="27" class="text">Routes from Wizard to Warm Glow start from ground level. Routes from Lignum Vitae to Equipoise start from the prominent step, L of the prow. A 15m scramble up a weakness on the LH side of the prow provides access to the step.</text>
<image id="37" src="Bulging Buttress nls.jpg" height="1500" legend="true" legendTitle="Bulging Buttress" legendx="12" legendy="15">
<drawing>
<rect id="8669" x="32" y="226" width="199" height="356" style="yellow_outline" text="SSSSI Wall"/>
<path id="68998" points="537,467, 532,346, 501,272, 502,176, 503,134,belay" d="M537,467C535,418.6 537.826288283014,377.5590615329926 532,346C526.173711716986,314.4409384670074 506.57718266178836,303.6040350834675 501,272C495.42281733821164,240.39596491653245 501.75647830908986,192.80299667279786 502,176C502.24352169091014,159.19700332720214 502.6,150.8 503,134" linkedTo="11"/>
<path id="59028" points="165,960, 181,838, 214,731, 246,665,lower 278,592, 303,455, 321,347,lower" d="M165,960C171.4,911.2 171.62840392320965,881.7978673792855 181,838C190.37159607679035,794.2021326207145 203.68085538602114,758.4648002802822 214,731C224.31914461397886,703.5351997197178 233.7294091522732,691.6501894974067 246,665C258.2705908477268,638.3498105025933 269.64841570277156,622.7689947792626 278,592C286.35158429722844,561.2310052207374 295.4290963793189,498.1365438852762 303,455C310.5709036206811,411.8634561147238 313.8,390.2 321,347" linkedTo="14"/>
<path id="8699" points="332,663, 358,531, 378,417, 386,340,lower" d="M332,663C342.4,610.2 349.49043710753784,576.5076624249064 358,531C366.50956289246216,485.49233757509364 373.50851867029525,447.63831907048615 378,417C382.49148132970475,386.36168092951385 382.8,370.8 386,340" linkedTo="13"/>
<path id="69378" points="382,670, 422,500, 440,251,belay" d="M382,670C398,602 412.4213921920003,569.1971839922734 422,500C431.5786078079997,430.8028160077267 432.8,350.6 440,251" linkedTo="12"/>
<path id="73867" points="670,587, 654,444, 640,335, 668,308, 659,259," d="M670,587C663.6,529.8 659.1964213510321,487.64993934866965 654,444C648.8035786489679,400.35006065133035 638.4067658567212,350.4771316775651 640,335C641.5932341432788,319.5228683224349 664.2264075471774,323.09436981129056 668,308C671.7735924528226,292.90563018870944 662.6,278.6 659,259" linkedTo="9"/>
<path id="64999" points="750,1341, 718,1108, 698,943, 655,820, 613,524,belay" d="M750,1341C737.1999999999999,1247.8 726.6130293104819,1173.922801260996 718,1108C709.3869706895181,1042.077198739004 709.1378518026261,993.9158939548619 698,943C686.8621481973739,892.0841060451381 665.362170099372,871.0794031957273 655,820C644.637829900628,768.9205968042727 629.8000000000001,642.4 613,524" linkedTo="7"/>
<path id="27767" points="656,544,lower" d="M656,544"/>
<rect id="34036" x="513" y="91" width="32" height="24" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="47m"/>
<rect id="78434" x="670" y="531" width="32" height="24" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="35m"/>
<path id="30919" points="234,998, 283,822, 344,706," d="M234,998C253.6,927.6 264.5189292138042,871.0588424506288 283,822C301.4810707861958,772.9411575493712 319.6,752.4 344,706" lineStyle="dotted" arrow="true"/>
<rect id="87024" x="198" y="1009" width="76" height="24" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="Scramble Up"/>
<path id="1515" points="438,251, 444,136," d="M438,251C441.0305121427807,205.0372325011596 441.6,182 444,136" lineStyle="dotted"/>
<path id="96088" points="657,257, 605,171, 531,128,lower" d="M657,257C636.2,222.60000000000002 628.9209881244076,195.490535460703 605,171C581.0790118755924,146.509464539297 560.6,145.2 531,128" lineStyle="dotted"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>14</climb>
<climb>13</climb>
<climb>12</climb>
<climb>11</climb>
<climb>9</climb>
<climb>7</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb extra="" grade="18" length="80m" name="The Wizard" number="5." stars="**" id="16" fa="K. Bischoff, P. Robinson, Feb 1981.">A spell-binding route that is best after a dry spell. On the LH side of Bulging Buttress and obscured in the corner is a prominent line capped by a large overhang. Scramble up over blocks to the base of the line. <br/>1. 25m. Climb up to the overhang, pass it on the L and follow the steep crack to a ledge. <br/>2. 25m. Continue up a short, awkward corner to a large ledge then straight up to base of the black corner. <br/>3. 30m. A demanding pitch. Up the vee-chimney, jam through the bulge and continue pleasantly to the top. Descend by walking down Avalanche Couloir or arranging a tape abseil.</climb>
<climb extra="↓" grade="21" length="30m" name="Cold Power" number="6." stars="***" id="15" fa="Pete Steane, D. Fife, Mar 1996.">A scary start and a pumpy finish. This route is on the wall of the buttress R of The Wizard. It might be advisable to have your belayer stay down in the gully below to avoid the 4m horizontal fall factor 1.0 from the belay. Either way, if you fall off the bottom section your gear is unlikely to hold so take your pick: risk become a gurgling bloody mess via the 4m horizontal or painlessly take the 20m death plunge.</climb>
<climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="22" length="50m" name="Heat Pump" number="7." stars="***" id="14" fa="R. Parkyn, N. Hancock, 2002.">Leave your trad rack at home. Best on a warm day. <br/>1. 25m 18. Start about 10m L of the scramble up to Black Magic. Follow the line of U-bolts past the LH end of an overlap to ledge with DBB. <br/>2. 25m 22. Classy climbing between the arête and the prominent black streak on the LH side of the steep wall.</climb>
<climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="21" length="50m" name="Warm Glow" number="8." stars="*" id="13" fa="R. Parkyn, D. McConnell, 2003.">The second pitch runs parallel to Heat Pump's second pitch and ascends the wall 2m L of Lignum Vitae (LV).<br/>1. 25m 18. Start about 10m L of the scramble up to Black Magic and climb pitch one of Heat Pump to DBB.<br/>2. 25m 21. Ascend the steep face L of the LV chimney to a ledge with rap station.</climb>
<climb extra="↓" grade="16" length="80m" name="Lignum Vitae" number="9." stars="**" id="12" fa="P. Jackson, R. McMahon, Jan 1971.">Sharpen your trad techniques on this old school number. Follows the conspicuous black chimney in the centre of the steep and impressive wall. Scramble up the weakness and just below the top of the step move left to belay at the base of the chimney 10m L of Black Magic.<br/>1. 50m. Up the groove past three ancient pitons to a ledge at 35m near the Warm Glow (WG) rap station. Bridge R and make an intimidating move into the bottomless chimney. Continue up line to a a large ledge with a bollard belay. <br/>2. 30m. Climb the chimney at the back of the ledge then up slab to a small tea-tree at the base of double-cracks in a corner. Climb the cracks and finish via the left line up a short chimney to top. Descent: A 45m rap from threaded slings reaches the WG rap station. Then a 50m rap to base of cliff.</climb>
<climb extra="↓" grade="18" length="53m" name="Black Magic" number="10." stars="***" id="11" fa="K. Carrigan, I. Lewis, Jan 1975.">A Pipes classic that is now generally done as a single pitch. Takes the line R of centre on the steep south-facing wall. Scramble 15m up the weakness to the top of the step. Climb the slab to a stance below an over-hanging crack. Jam up and over a spike then up the crack to a ledge. A thoughtful move L and up into small niche is necessary to gain the base of a wide crack equipped with finger jams. Up and step right onto the wall then back left into the crack to reach the next ledge. Continue up the hand-crack to a pea-pod. Step R at this point to the prow to locate Black Magic rap station (47m to reach top of the step). Scramble back down the weakness or use the Jelly Roll rap station (35m) to reach the ground.</climb>
<climb extra="↓" grade="17" length="50m" name="Magic Mushroom Variants" number="11." stars="" id="10" fa="Original Variant (2), G. Phillips, S. Young, Jan 2010, (1) T.McKenny, T. Meldrum, Jan 2011">Well protected (and possibly a bit easier) variants to Black Magic (BM). Climb Black Magic to just above the bulge at about 15m, and step R onto the face, past a spike, and either 1) climb the crack on the LH side of the huge detached flake or 2) traverse R another metre and climb the off-width on the RH side of the flake. Continue directly up the face above via a fist and hand crack, trending R and finishing up the prow of Malignant Mushroom to the BM rap bolts.</climb>
<climb extra="↓" grade="19" length="50m" name="Malignant Mushroom" number="12." stars="*" id="9" fa="S. Parsons, S. Brennan, Apr 1981.">A companion line to Black Magic that follows the RH end of the steep wall. Some loose rock. Belay off the Jelly Roll rap anchors on the step, 7m R of Black Magic. <br/>1. 32m. Climb up past a dangerous looking spike and follow the corner until level with a small roof. Traverse R on thin hands and step around the prow. Move R slightly and up for 5m to belay on the prow.<br/>2. 18m. Up the RH side of the prow easily to the rap bolts on Black Magic.</climb>
<climb id="38" stars="**" extra="↓ " number="13." name="Equipoise" length="50m" grade="23" fa="H. Jackson , T. Smith, Feb 2013.">Climbs the arête R of Malignant Mushroom. Belay off the Jelly Roll rap anchors on the step, 7m R of Black Magic.<br/>Step R of the arête and ascend flake then arête with increasing difficulty and spaced protection to the overlap. Difficult moves past this, up past a bolt, then R to small ledge. Easier moves back on the arête lead to another ledge. Finish up RH side of the prow easily as for Malignant Mushroom to the rap bolts on Black Magic. Abseil from BM anchors.<br/><br/></climb>
<text id="35" class="heading3">Jelly Roll Area</text>
<text id="29" class="text">The access track meets the cliif at the base of the next routes. They climb the wall just right of the prow and finish on the step in the buttress. They can be done as access routes to climbs starting from the step or as climbs in their own right.</text>
<image id="36" src="CR 1.jpg" legend="true" legendTitle="Breaker Spur Area" legendx="9" legendy="11" height="797">
<drawing>
<path id="53297" points="34,729, 84,631, 116,602, 132,582, 130,544, 147,509, 176,474, 196,420, 213,391, 230,370,belay" d="M34,729C54.00000000000001,689.8 74.62995553163339,645.5121420424703 84,631C93.37004446836661,616.4878579575297 108.83075644611213,609.3186027945939 116,602C123.16924355388787,594.6813972054061 129.59610802463723,591.9589810407886 132,582C134.40389197536277,572.0410189592114 126.93639624183604,558.9095382897312 130,544C133.06360375816396,529.0904617102688 138.45256178062544,522.0069712033961 147,509C155.54743821937456,495.99302879660394 167.2312174077821,489.9269724634162 176,474C184.7687825922179,458.0730275365838 190.52526001418082,432.28117348170247 196,420C201.47473998581918,407.71882651829753 206.92288793682013,399.9369295046763 213,391C219.07711206317987,382.0630704953237 223.2,378.4 230,370" linkedTo="7"/>
<path id="74552" points="133,767, 180,655, 213,575, 241,496, 305,371,belay" d="M133,767C151.8,722.2 166.68630637764926,686.9528646936418 180,655C193.31369362235074,623.0471353063582 200.9912164642651,606.3015833144565 213,575C225.0087835357349,543.6984166855435 227.21715656466566,526.5619571826979 241,496C254.78284343533434,465.43804281730206 279.4,421 305,371" linkedTo="32"/>
<path id="42442" points="209,763, 231,690, 255,617, 280,563, 297,502, 310,447, 335,428, 358,360,belay" d="M209,763C217.79999999999998,733.8 221.8354044157638,719.0876294630106 231,690C240.1645955842362,660.9123705369894 246.4319631617425,639.2069526216062 255,617C263.5680368382575,594.7930473783938 271.8344411096692,585.358077914001 280,563C288.1655588903308,540.641922085999 291.339797391995,523.8861167509527 297,502C302.660202608005,480.11388324904726 304.26241677431375,458.1731883868627 310,447C315.73758322568625,435.8268116131373 328.93242549725187,438.997478786231 335,428C341.06757450274813,417.002521213769 348.8,387.2 358,360" linkedTo="30"/>
<path id="46748" points="292,517, 268,475, 264,451," d="M292,517C282.4,500.2 271.8009951594727,483.9594885901856 268,475C264.1990048405273,466.0405114098144 265.6,460.6 264,451"/>
<path id="35824" points="" d=""/>
<path id="61881" points="292,758, 314,671, 335,645, 346,605, 345,569, 350,545, 372,494, 374,450, 384,420, 402,384, 419,345,belay" d="M292,758C300.8,723.2 309.24543209176903,683.4945621774442 314,671C318.75456790823097,658.5054378225558 329.1676252867688,657.0292728460394 335,645C340.8323747132312,632.9707271539606 344.1207304114307,619.2824488731267 346,605C347.8792695885693,590.7175511268733 344.347706564755,578.784401528675 345,569C345.652293435245,559.215598471325 346.67847606565016,554.2264553731941 350,545C353.32152393434984,535.7735446268059 367.68467148387725,511.0815087096526 372,494C376.31532851612275,476.9184912903474 371.9752422050739,462.4860064020441 374,450C376.0247577949261,437.5139935979559 379.0598917764182,431.6445408127285 384,420C388.9401082235818,408.3554591872715 395.19167534032545,398.5892671278741 402,384C408.80832465967455,369.4107328721259 412.2,360.6 419,345" linkedTo="31"/>
<path id="88301" points="416,770, 445,653, 457,541, 474,438, 492,380, 507,319, 536,269, 550,239, 549,205, 553,146,belay 587,146, 597,82, 601,33,belay" d="M416,770C427.6,723.2 437.059396431856,697.3511760269508 445,653C452.940603568144,608.6488239730492 451.4181553444169,582.3826414120817 457,541C462.5818446555831,499.6173585879183 468.83975205588285,461.7371405429389 474,438C479.16024794411715,414.2628594570611 485.50865837707073,403.4081713069267 492,380C498.49134162292927,356.5918286930733 498.480054222775,340.49349957436306 507,319C515.519945777225,297.50650042563694 529.730497611354,280.664190490504 536,269C542.269502388646,257.335809509496 547.3639775603266,251.97734124146922 550,239C552.6360224396734,226.02265875853078 548.5613287877778,218.598807578886 549,205C549.4386712122222,191.401192421114 545.6359049132496,157.43372658205973 553,146C560.3640950867504,134.56627341794027 579.2952080087359,157.2069701691114 587,146C594.7047919912641,134.7930298308886 594.5820902213591,101.51598607045908 597,82C599.4179097786409,62.48401392954092 599.4,52.6 601,33" linkedTo="4"/>
<path id="5274" points="" d=""/>
<path id="9470" points="584,151, 619,147, 640,96, 635,31,lower" d="M584,151C598,149.4 608.9467078200596,156.8737691052986 619,147C629.0532921799404,137.1262308947014 636.9855424215267,117.85481744393178 640,96C643.0144575784733,74.14518255606822 637,57 635,31"/>
<path id="83789" points="602,150, 615,90, 616,31,belay" d="M602,150C607.2,126 612.242150513825,113.4417206324878 615,90C617.757849486175,66.5582793675122 615.0905482948668,50.644156830875446 616,31"/>
<path id="77301" points="586,226,lower" d="M586,226"/>
<path id="58470" points="490,313, 521,219, 530,133, 538,72,belay" d="M490,313C502.4,275.4 513.4968398814428,252.76422053350697 521,219C528.5031601185572,185.23577946649303 527.1729100358248,157.44601321963276 530,133C532.8270899641752,108.55398678036724 534.8,96.4 538,72" linkedTo="5"/>
<path id="61824" points="695,590, 698,448, 690,382, 675,327, 651,285, 649,225, 648,183, 656,147, 642,120,belay" d="M695,590C696.2,533.2 698.639075772401,474.5855521318841 698,448C697.360924227599,421.4144478681159 694.2583045391085,404.40238474922273 690,382C685.7416954608915,359.59761525077727 682.218092547086,344.9526917196754 675,327C667.781907452914,309.0473082803246 655.7793780844004,303.74986786957055 651,285C646.2206219155996,266.25013213042945 649.4940440425606,241.7974974470607 649,225C648.5059559574394,208.2025025529393 646.6814670015904,197.6922248394212 648,183C649.3185329984096,168.3077751605788 657.1534023923383,159.11072511955203 656,147C654.8465976076617,134.88927488044797 647.6,130.8 642,120" linkedTo="33"/>
<path id="79319" points="775,654, 753,515, 737,359, 718,294, 710,223, 702,161, 698,114, 682,16,belay" d="M775,654C766.2,598.4 760.1917644093114,570.8308026512333 753,515C745.8082355906886,459.16919734876666 741.2371478005424,385.7545618262822 737,359C732.7628521994576,332.2454381737178 723.2748195415918,320.5694613946847 718,294C712.7251804584082,267.4305386053153 712.9866581750997,247.82659608051637 710,223C707.0133418249003,198.17340391948363 704.0647320656973,179.75464959675017 702,161C699.9352679343027,142.24535040324983 700.5780692530482,132.6910020845991 698,114C695.4219307469518,95.30899791540091 688.4,55.2 682,16" linkedTo="3"/>
<path id="96509" points="" d=""/>
<rect id="54635" x="813" y="6" width="161" height="230" style="yellow_outline" text="Farewell to Arms"/>
<path id="66295" points="404,322, 423,279,lower 436,233, 454,171, 487,102,lower" d="M404,322C411.6,304.8 416.6376737681057,296.69521983245613 423,279C429.3623262318943,261.30478016754387 430.7246765384706,251.3785462530701 436,233C441.2753234615294,214.6214537469299 444.6313163368808,195.0646580366396 454,171C463.3686836631192,146.9353419633604 473.8,129.6 487,102" linkedTo="9"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>9</climb>
<climb>28</climb>
<climb>7</climb>
<climb>32</climb>
<climb>30</climb>
<climb>31</climb>
<climb>5</climb>
<climb>4</climb>
<climb>33</climb>
<climb>3</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="28" name="Eye for a Line" length="34m" grade="16" fa="T. McKenny, I. Snape, D. Humphries, Dec 2010." number="14." stars="" extra="↓">The open corner to the L of Jelly Roll has been climbed. The rock quality is as good (or bad) as it looks.... Climb either up the corner or the L wall, breaking out R round the arête where the rock quality finally deteriorates to suicidal. Finish up last few moves of Jelly Roll. Descent as for Jelly Roll.</climb>
<climb extra="↓" grade="17" length="35m" name="Jelly Roll" number="15." stars="*" id="7" fa="S. Parsons, P. Bigg, Apr 1978.">Great if you are a percussionist. For the rest of us, however, the tone emitted by tapping the flakes on this route is a tad scary. This route ascends the cracked wall below the step, on the RH side of the prow. Start near the L edge of the wall. Climb the face to a crack, which is followed to gain the step of Bulging Buttress, below the start of Black Magic. Rap off bolted rap station to the R (35m) or continue up another route.</climb>
<climb id="32" stars="" extra="↓" number="16." name="Breakneck" length="35m" grade="14" fa="M. Douglas, D. Cox , Nov 1962">One of the earliest routes on the Pipes, now badly in need of a makeover. Several upper pitches mentioned in the original Guide have never been identified. Start 3m R of Jelly Roll and climb the steep but vegetated and possibly loose crack. Finish on the step.</climb>
<climb id="30" fa="I. Snape and T. McKenny, V. Keller, Dec. 2012." name="Smoke and Mirrors " length="35m" grade="15/19" stars="*" extra="↓" number="17.">Start about 5m R of Jelly Roll, in the middle of the wall on good rock (directly under the lower abseil line from the step). Climb straight up the wall, either trending L at the final overhang and finishing up the last few metres of the Breakneck crack (15), or climb the roof direct and the terrific steep wall above (19). Finish up on the step at the rap station.</climb>
<climb id="31" stars="*" extra="↓" number="18." name="Crucio" length="30m" grade="17" fa="T. McKenny, (Prof.) I. Snape, Dec 2012.">Professor Snape weaves his magic spells again.... Takes a spellbinding line up the face of the pillar 5m to the R of Smoke and Mirrors, to L of Breaker Spur. Climb the open book corner and then the exciting steep wall above, trending slightly R then L to gain the finger crack. Finish up LH arête and wide crack above to the ledge and tree belay. Descent via the Black Magic rap station (traverse 2m L and up: 35m)<br/></climb>
<text id="25" class="heading3">Breaker Spur Area</text>
<climb extra="↓" grade="14" length="108m" name="Breaker Chimney" number="19." stars="" id="5" fa=" T. Terry, K. Hall, Mar 1968. Direct finish: Basil Rathbone, P. Robinson, Apr 1979.">The prominent chimney high on the face L of Breaker Spur, to the R of Malignant Mushroom. Start 20m north of the nose of the buttress, as for Breaker Spur. <br/>1. 36m. As for Breaker Spur. <br/>2. 12m. Follow a short chimney just L of the crest, swing L and up a short nose to gain a terrace (as for Breaker Spur). <br/>3. 30m. Traverse L to the foot of the chimney, which is followed to a broad ledge. <br/>4. 30m. Two alternatives: (a) Original route: traverse L along the ledge and continue heading up, keeping towards the L skyline. Move R and scramble to the top; (b) Direct finish: follow the line directly above the chimney past a chockstone. Abseil via the Black Magic rap station.</climb>
<climb extra="↓" grade="15" length="101m" name="Breaker Spur" number="20." stars="**" id="4" fa="M. Douglas, J. Fairhall, Jun 1967.">A classic alpine style route, mostly following the prominent and narrow vertical rib 20m R of the prow.<br/>1. 36m. Climb the rib mainly on the L and centre, moving R at the blank wall above the first platform. Belay at the second platform on the crest of the spur.<br/>2. 24m. Up a short chimney just L of the crest, passing an old rusty peg (still there 2012), and climb a short nose to a terrace. Continue up towards a prominent corner.<br/>3. 26m. Various alternatives, all a bit vegetated: <br/> (a) Climb straight up the corner for 8-10m, move R into the next line and follow this to a ledge with two U bolts on the wall. (Climbed and cleaned in Nov. 2012)<br/> (b) Climb straight up the crack and follow the corner to a ledge.<br/> (c) Move L up the chimney and exit through the bulge;<br/> (d) Move L and up the rib on sloping ledges;<br/> Either abseil from the U bolts (50m) to the 2nd platform (top of pitch1) followed by a 35m abseil (two U bolts) to the ground or<br/>4. 15m. Up the gully to the L over a couple of jammed blocks to a big established gum. Traverse L round the corner to a short gully above the Black Magic rap bolts. Climb down to the bolts and abseil off.</climb>
<climb id="33" stars="*" extra="" number="21." name="Cracked Pepper" length="46m" grade="17" fa="I. Snape, T. McKenny (alt.), A. Adams, Dec 2012.">Access to the route involved significant floral landscaping! A strong line up the L facing black corner 10m R of Breaker Spur.<br/>1. 26m 17. Scramble up to the base of the corner to belay. Climb the corner using the L face and R arête until below the roof. Using face holds on the L wall climb to the hakea and move up and L to triple bolt belay.<br/>2. 20m 16. Step back R into the corner and climb the terrific crack line to belay at a spike on a ledge on the L. Abseil from spike down the line (45m).</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="13" length="105m" name="Breakout" stars="" id="3" fa="G. Kowalik, P. Robinson, Mar 1979." number="22.">Scene of the departure of a very large rock. On the wall 10m R of Breaker Spur find a bottomless chimney about 30m above the ground. <br/>1. 24m. Up a series of walls to a small ledge beneath the chimney. <br/>2. 30m. Climb the bottomless chimney and up the line to belay on a large ledge. <br/>3. 27m. Up the walls above, trending slightly L at the top to a jam crack. <br/>4. 24m. Easier climbing to the top.</climb>
</guide>
|