<guide><text class="heading1">Gnarly Spider</text><text class="intro">The bouldering here is on a nice slopey sandstone boulder and is worth a visit. </text><image src="Gnarly Spidergnarlymap3.jpg"></image><text class="access">Access to this boulder is the same as for Monkeys Bum Crag. From the East Derwent highway about 5km along from the Bowen Bridge the road crosses a creek just before it sweeps around to the left. Park on the right in the area provided. Go up the valley. The Gnarly Spider boulder is on the right side of a grassy flat a third of the way along the walk to Monkey's Bum (the climbing crag - see Craglets). </text><text class="heading2">The Gnarly Spider Boulder, Front </text><image src="Gnarly Spidergsf.jpg"></image><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="VE" name=" " number="1." stars=" ">Easy slabs to the right of Gnarly Spider.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Gnarly Spider" number="2." stars="***">Start at jug right of crack. Crank left across the lip via good edges and slopers. Finish at left hand jug. V3 if done left to right.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name=" " number="3." stars=" ">Start as for 2, straight up crack to top out.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V8" name="Pof Bandit" number="4." stars=" ">Sit start on hold under roof. Up to large sloping hold at lip, mantle and top out.</problem><text class="heading2">The Gnarly Spider Boulder, Side </text><image src="Gnarly Spidergss.jpg"></image><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V6" name="The Full Gnarly" number="5." stars="***">Continue problem 2 (Gnarly Spider) around the arete and across the entire face using small edges (manufactured!) to finish as for 10. V4/5 if done from the arete only (sit start). Many eliminates / variants also exist.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2/3" name=" " number="6." stars="*">Sit start at jugs on arete. Crank slightly left and up to top out.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3/4" name=" " number="7." stars="*">Start on small edges at head height. Step up and fire for good hold below lip, top out. A good eliminate exists by using the slope only below the lip, about V5.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V4" name=" " number="8." stars=" ">Start at edges at head height again, dyno for lip proper.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name=" " number="9." stars=" ">Start on pocket and edge, step up and lock off / dyno to lip.</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V0" name=" " number="10." stars=" ">Start at large triangular hold. Up through good edges to finish under roof at lip. Couple of grades harder if you do the roof / mantle.</problem></guide> |