<guide version="3"><header access="" acknowledgement="by Nick Hancock" history="" intro="These crags are an assortment of coastal crags, mostly granite, along the West Coast. There is some good rock here for those in the area. The crags are described north to south." name="West Coast Crags" rock="Coastal granite, up to 25m high" sun="Mixed sun and shade" walk="Up to 40min" id="1"/><text class="heading2" id="2">Marrawah</text><text class="text" id="3">From Marrawah head 4 km south west, first on the C213 then the C214, to the junction with West Point Road. Follow this another 4 km, until about 1 km from Lighthouse Beach, where you will see a dome shaped cliff a couple of hundred metres off to the right. Head through a thin band of moderate scrub by the side of the road, and then easily to the orange streaked south west face. The slightly overhanging cliff is composed of perfect quartzite, reminiscent of the Arapiles.</text><climb extra="5Þ" grade="24" length="20m" name="Flight of the Conchords" number="1." stars="***" id="4" fa="Nick & Heather Hancock Sep 2009.">Follow an orange streak on the left side of the face past 5 bolts to a DBB.</climb><climb extra="5Þ" grade="25" length="20m" name="The Distant Future" number="2." stars="***" id="5" fa="Nick & Heather Hancock Sep 2009.">More towards the centre of the crag, boulder up to a good horizontal break and the first of 5 bolts leading to a DBB.</climb><text class="heading2" id="6">The Velvet Underground</text><text class="text" id="7">The Velvet Underground is a granite crag south of Granville Harbour. From the Granville Harbour Road travel 2 km along Climes Track, until just past the shacks at the Tasman River, where it gets too rough for most vehicles. Walk along the main track for 35 minutes, until just past the second creek. Turn right GDA 0340042 5365280 down to the coast and the crag is visible to the south, set back 50 m from the coast and above a pond. GDA 0340709 5363905</text><image noPrint="false" src="VelvetUg.jpg" width="600" id="8">null</image><climb id="44" name="Lonesome Cowboy Bill" length="20m" grade="16" fa="Heather & Nick Hancock Mar 2008.">On the far left of the crag climb a flake crack then up right to finish.</climb><climb extra="6Þ" grade="24" length="25m" name="Sweet Jane" number="" stars="***" id="9" fa="Nick Hancock, Feb 2006.">Climbs the pillar with a wide horizontal break at half height, on the left side of the cliff. Technical moves past six glued carrots. Optional Friend 5 on a long sling in the break.</climb><climb extra="" grade="26" length="25m" name="Heroin" number="" stars="**" id="10" fa="Nick and Heather Hancock, Feb 2006.">1. 10m 26. Climb the very thin seam past two glued carrots and small cams to a belay on the right. 2. 15m 17. Follow the corner above trending left onto the arête to finish. </climb><climb id="46" number="" name="Heroin Overdose" length="15m" grade="24" fa="Nick Hancock Jan 2011." stars="**">From the belay above the first pitch of Heroin, battle up the overhanging fist crack, to an easier, very wide crack above, Friends 2-6.</climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="25m" name="I’ll Be Your Mirror" stars=" *** " id="12" fa="Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges Jan 2004."> Start below a round hole. Thin cracks on good wires then carefully up the easy slab above.</climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="25m" name="Sunday Morning" stars=" ** " id="13" fa="Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges Jan 2004.">Follow the right trending diagonal off blocks to the flared vertical cracks. Follow these to a glued carrot and a thin move over a bulge. Climb up to a deep flared crack (4 Camalot) and another bolt on the final slab.</climb><climb id="45" name="Sunday Morning Direct" length="25m" grade="24" fa="Nick Hancock Feb 2007"> Climbs the overhanging groove direct to the slab, instead of traversing in from the left. Nick Hancock Feb 2007. </climb><climb extra="" grade="23" length="25m" name="Venus In Furs" stars=" * " id="14" fa="Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges Jan 2004.">Climb the fist crack to shrubbery. Go left to another crack then back right to a black groove through the final tier. 4, 5, & 6 friend-sized cams essential.</climb><climb extra="5Þ" grade="26" length="25m" name="Waiting For The Man" stars=" *** " id="15" fa="Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges Jan 2004.">Climb a very thin crack up a prow past 4 glued carrots, to another glued carrot, on the pocketed wall above.</climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="I’m Beginning to See the Light" stars=" ** " id="16" fa="Sarah Hedges & Nick Hancock Jan 2004.">Climb a right trending ramp (4 & 5 Camalot) to open grooves (4 glued carrots).</climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="15m" name="Black Angels Death Song" stars=" * " id="17" fa="Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges Jan 2004.">Near the top of the rocky gully on the right side of the crag climb a left trending crack to an easy finish.</climb><text id="58" class="heading3">Velvet Teens</text><climb id="59" number=" " name="Rubicon" length="15m" grade="23" fa="Nick & Heather Hancock Jan 2011." stars="**">Ten minutes north along the coast from the Velvet Underground is a collection of large boulders by the ocean. On the west face of the largest boulder climb a desperate flaring runnel to a ledge, then the lovely seam and diagonal crack above. Simultaneous abseil off the top.</climb><climb id="60" number="" name="Grit Your Teeth" length="7m" grade="22" fa="Nick & Heather Hancock Jan 2011." stars="**">Fifty metres south and facing inland is a nice golden wall above a zawn, with a perfect flake crack. Climb this with conviction past good wires and cams. </climb><text class="heading2" id="18">Trial Harbour</text><text class="text" id="19">These assorted granite crags are north of Trial Harbour. From the campsite at the north end of Trial Harbour walk north along the coast for 30 minutes. Just before going around to Goldrush wall, a long 25m high wall becomes visible high on the hill. Below this at sea level are some short, steep cracks. GDA 55G 0347351 5357073</text><text class="heading3" id="20">Man Child Area</text><image noPrint="false" src="trial topo 2b.jpg" width="500" id="21"/> <climb extra="" grade="18" length="7m" name="Attack of the 4ft Man Child" number="" stars="**" id="22" fa="Andrew Geeves, Anna Lynch Jan 2010">The overhanging, flared and shallow hand crack.</climb><climb extra="" grade="23" length="8m" name="The Contortionist" number="" stars="" id="23" fa="Andrew Geeves, Anna Lynch Jan 2010.">Some trickiness getting established, then desperate flared thin hands to the top.</climb><text class="heading3" id="24">Jetstream Wall</text><text class="text" id="25">The following two climbs are on the wall high on the hill. Access: Follow the rocky ridge that heads up to the right side of the wall. Once on top, aim for the top right hand end of the cliff. Easily scramble down to the base of the cliff. </text><climb extra="" grade="21" length="15m" name="Jetstream" number="" stars="*" id="26" fa="Andrew Geeves Jan 2010">On the far left hand end of the cliff is a featured dike. Climb the vegetated chimney below it or scramble around to the pedestal and start here. Fun moves with the crux moving into the layback before jugs and a mantle onto stance, then climb easy slabby groove. Gear is good but difficult to place on lead.</climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="25m" name="I Just Don’t Get It" number="" stars="" id="27" fa="Andrew Geeves, Anna Lynch Jan 2010.">Towards the left hand end of the cliff, just left of a steep, narrow gully is a line with two ledges. Chimney, stem, mantle and cracks. A fun and varied climb.</climb><text class="heading3" id="28">Goldrush Wall</text><image noPrint="false" src="goldrush2.jpg" width="500" id="29"/><text class="text" id="30">5 minutes walk further along the coast past Man Child area, just after a sandy gulch, a long blank wall blocks further progress. GDA 55G 0347146 5357227</text> <climb extra="" grade="17" length="10m" name="Tinsel Town" number="" stars="**" id="31" fa="Nick & Heather Hancock, Ashley Mason, Jan 2009.">Climbs the L end of Goldrush Wall, on excellent holds just R of a wide crack, to finish up a groove.</climb><climb extra="" grade="21" length="20m" name="Goldrush" number="" stars="***" id="32" fa="Nick Hancock & Ken Palmer, Jan 2004.">Climb the immaculate dyke via three glued carrots to an easier finish via a crack, medium cams.</climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="5m" name="Silver City" number="" stars="*" id="33" fa="Ashley Mason, Nick & Heather Hancock, Feb 2009.">The arête down R of Goldrush, with poor protection.</climb><text id="49" class="heading3">Eye Rock</text><climb id="50" number=" " name="Once Upon a Dream" length="10m" grade="22" fa="Nick & Heather Hancock Jan 2011." stars="***">Five minutes past Goldrush, as the view north opens out, and you see a big Castle like cliff in the sea, the track passes right of a blank south facing wall with a distinct eye. GDA 55G 0347080 5357364. Climb the cool thin flake, past a couple of good medium wires, to a bold swing left up onto the arete. Trend up right up a flake with small-medium cams.</climb><text id="51" class="heading3">Castle Rock</text><climb id="52" number="" name="A Wrinkle in Time" length="15m" grade="18" fa="Heather & Nick Hancock Jan 2011." stars="*">On the strikingly cracked south east facing wall of the large Castle shaped cliff down by the sea, 75m before Only the Lonely. GDA 55G 0347031 5357406. Climb the left of the double cracks 10m left of the east arete. Cams to Friend 4. </climb><climb id="53" number=" " name="Timewarp" length="15m " grade="20" fa="Nick & Heather Hancock Jan 2011." stars="**">Climb the steep wide crack just left of the east arete, take a step to the right. Cams to Friend 5.</climb><climb id="54" number="" name="Quickspace Supersport" length="15m" grade="25" fa="Nick Hancock Jan 2011." stars="***">Climbs the speckled north east face, trending left from some small cams, past three glued carrots to a DBB.</climb><text class="heading3" id="34">Only the Lonely Area</text><climb extra="" grade="22" length="15m" name="Only the Lonely" number="" stars="***" id="35" fa="Nick & Heather Hancock, Feb 2009.">Located on a distinct square topped pinnacle set back from the sea, 10 minutes past Goldrush Wall, on the way to Wheel Bay. Climb the slab and sharp arête past five glued carrots and a 3.5 & 5 Friend to a DBB.</climb><climb extra="" grade="16" length="15m" name="Loner’s Rock" number="" stars="" id="36" fa="Nick & Heather Hancock Jan 2009.">Climb cracks to the R, to a ledge, then the wide crack to the summit and DBB.</climb><climb id="47" number="" name="Vanishing Point" length="10m" grade="22" fa="Nick & Heather Hancock Jan 2011." stars="***" extra="3Þ">Twenty metres left of Only the Lonely and on the same fin of rock, climb the beautiful twin dykes past 3 glued carrots to a DBB. </climb><image noPrint="false" src="trial topo 1b.jpg" width="500" id="37"/><text class="text" id="38">Just past ‘Only The Lonely’ and down at sea level. GDA 55 G 0346969 5357547.</text><climb extra="" grade="21" length="8m" name="Roll With It" number="" stars="***" id="39" fa="Andrew Geeves, Matthew Johnston Feb 2010">The beautiful arcing crack. Barn door moves constitute the crux.</climb><climb extra="" grade="23" length="20m" name="Fizzy Bubbly" number="" stars="***" id="40" fa="Matthew Johnston, Andrew Geeves Feb 2010">A stunner. Balancy moves are required to move from the first crack to the flake on the face, then more balancy and strenuous moves from the flake to jugs below the overhanging crack. The crack above is difficult until you gain large holds up high and left. There is good gear (wires/offset wires and 2.0 camalot) behind the flake on the face. Take a 5.0 camalot for the top crack as it flares open inside.</climb><climb extra="" grade="16" length="20m" name="No Left Turn" number="" stars="**" id="41" fa="Matthew Johnston, Andrew Geeves Feb 2010">Climb short hand crack (crux), then chimney. Surprisingly good fun.</climb><text id="55" class="heading3">Knobby Rock</text><climb id="56" number="" name="Hobnobbing" length="10m" grade="20" fa="Nick & Heather Hancock Jan 2011." stars="**">A couple of minutes past Only the Lonely is a dome shaped rock higher on the hill, split by a chimney. GDA 55G 0347016 5357580. Climb the north face on amazing black knobs, crossing the crack, medium cam, and follow 3 glued carrots to a BB.</climb><climb id="57" number="" name="Attack of the Bumble Bees" length="15m" grade="18" fa="Heather & Nick Hancock Jan 2011." stars="*">Climb the hand crack on the seaward face just right of the chimney.</climb><text class="heading3" id="42">Pulpit Rock</text><climb extra="" grade="23" length="7m" name="Pulpit Rock" number="" stars="" id="43" fa="Nick & Heather Hancock, Ashley Mason, Feb 2009.">Sits high on the hillside above Trial Harbour and approached from the Climes Track. Bridge up with a large sling on the smaller block and climb via two carrots to a carrot belay on top.</climb></guide> |