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<header access="Access from the Organ Pipes Track is about 400m south from the N Buttress track junction, up a boulder field. (GPS MTW070)&lt;br/&gt;Descent: Abseil descent from routes in the vicinity of the prow is from a rap station down the lines of Black Magic and Jelly Roll (47m &amp; 35m). The first five routes are found on the RH side of the prow." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="Bulging Buttress is the natural continuation of the LH side of Teardrop Gully. The buttress is divided into LH and RH sections by a distinct prow. The quality of the rock on the RH side is not so good and the routes are less popular. The prow has a pronounced step 25m off the ground that traverses L to more stable rock on the LH side of the prow. Above this is a steep, clean wall on which several quality routes reside. Further L a sub-buttress, bordering the RH side of Avalanche Couloir, rises to join the main buttress." name="Bulging Buttress" rock="Dolerite walls and cracks up to 80m" sun="Not much sun" walk="20 min" id="1"/><image src="Bulging ButtressPrint.jpg" width="700" id="2" legend="true" legendx="500" legendy="30" legendTitle="Bulging Buttress">null<legend>4</legend><legend>7</legend><legend>9</legend><legend>11</legend><legend>12</legend><legend>13</legend><legend>14</legend></image><text id="25" class="heading3">Breaker Spur Area</text><climb extra="" grade="13" length="106m" name="Breakout" stars="" id="3" fa="G. Kowalik, P. Robinson, Mar 1979.">Scene of the departure of a very large rock. On the wall 10m R of Breaker Spur find a bottomless chimney about 30m above the ground.
1. 24m. Up a series of walls to a small ledge beneath the chimney.
2. 30m. Climb the bottomless chimney and up the line to belay on a large ledge.
3. 27m. Up the walls above trending slightly L at the top to a jam crack.
4. 24m. Easier climbing to the top.</climb><climb extra="" grade="13" length="93m" name="Breaker Spur" number="BS" stars="*" id="4" fa="M. Douglas, J. Fairhall, Jun 1967.">A classic alpine style route. The prominent narrow vertical rib 20m R of the prow.
1. 36m. Climb the rib mainly on the L and centre, moving R at the blank wall above the first platform. Belay at the second platform on the crest of the spur.
2. 24m. Crux. Up a short chimney just L of the crest, swing L passing an old rusty peg (still there 2010), and climb a short nose to a terrace. Continue up towards a prominent corner.
3. 18m. Three alternatives, all a bit vegetated: a) Climb straight up the crack and follow the corner to a ledge. b) Move L up the chimney and exit through the bulge. c) Move L and up the rib on sloping ledges. Or just pick your own line, avoiding the mulga to get the best climbing.
4. 15m. Up the gully to the L over a couple of jammed blocks to a big established gum. Traverse L round the corner to a short gully above the Black Magic rap bolts.  Climb down to the bolts and abseil off.</climb><climb extra="" grade="14" length="108m" name="Breaker Chimney" number="" stars="" id="5" fa=" T. Terry, K. Hall, Mar 1968. Direct finish: Basil Rathbone, P. Robinson, Apr 1979.">The prominent chimney high on the face L of Breaker Spur, to the R of Malignant Mushroom. Start 20m north of the nose of the buttress, as for Breaker Spur.
1. 36m. As for Breaker Spur.
2. 12m. Follow a short chimney just L of the crest, swing L and up a short nose to gain a terrace (as for Breaker Spur).
3. 30m. Traverse L to the foot of the  chimney, which is followed to a broad ledge.
4. 30m. Two alternatives: a) Original route: traverse L along the ledge and continue up keeping towards the L skyline. Move R and scramble to the top. b) Direct finish: follow the line directly above the chimney, past a chock stone. Abseil via the Black Magic rap station.</climb><text class="text" id="6">An early route from 1962, Breakneck (14), was recorded in the area around Jelly Roll and Lignum Vitae but has never been located.</text><text id="26" class="heading3">Black Magic Area</text><climb extra="↓" grade="17" length="35m" name="Jelly Roll" number="JR" stars="*" id="7" fa="S. Parsons, P. Bigg, Apr 1978.">Great if you are a percussionist. For the rest of us however, the tone emitted by tapping the flakes on this route is a tad scary. This route ascends the cracked wall on the RH side of the prow. Start near the L edge of the wall. Climb the face to a crack, which is followed to gain the step of Bulging Buttress below the start of Black Magic. Rap off (bolted rap station, 35m) or continue up Black Magic.</climb><text class="text" id="8">Routes from Malignant Mushroom to Lignum Vitae start from the step and ascend the steep wall to the L of the prow. Access to the top of the step is via a 15m scramble up from the LH side (the topo is not marked correctly. Lignum Vitae does not start on the ground as it suggests and the "LV" dotted line is inclusive of the access scramble).
Descent from routes in the vicinity is via abseil (rap stations, 47m &amp; 35m) down the lines of Malignant Mushroom and Jelly Roll.
</text><climb extra="↓" grade="19" length="50m" name="Malignant Mushroom" number="MM" stars="*" id="9" fa="S. Parsons, S. Brennan, Apr 1981.">A companion line to Black Magic that follows the RH end of the steep wall. Some loose rock. Belay at the Jelly Roll U bolt anchors at top of the step 7m R of Black Magic.
1. 32m. Climb up past a dangerous looking spike and follow the corner until level with a small roof. Traverse R on thin hands and step around the prow. R slightly and up for 5m to belay on the prow.
2. 18m. Up  the RH side of the prow easily to the rap bolts on Black Magic.</climb><climb extra="↓" grade="17" length="50m" name="Magic Mushroom" number="" stars="" id="10" fa="G Phillips, S. Young Jan 2010.">A well protected (and possibly a bit easier) variant to Black Magic. Climb Black Magic to above the bulge at approx. 15m then traverse R on to the face and up to the R side of the huge detached flake. Climb the flake and continue directly up the face via a fist and hand crack, finishing up the prow of Malignant Mushroom to the rap bolts.</climb><climb extra="↓" grade="18" length="53m" name="Black Magic" number="BM" stars="***" id="11" fa="K. Carrigan, I. Lewis, Jan 1975.">A Pipes classic that can be done in a single rope-stretching pitch. Takes the line R of centre of the steep wall. Scramble to the top of the step.
1. 53m. Up to a ledge below an over-hanging crack. Jam up this past a spike to a ledge (the belay if you are climbing it in two pitches). An interesting move L and back R is necessary to gain the base of a shallow wide crack. Up this (crux),  or climb the wall on the R,  to reach the next ledge. Continue up a terrific hand-crack to a pea-pod. Traverse R at this point to the prow to locate rap station. Abseil to the step (47m) and either reverse the scramble or use the Jelly Roll rap station (35m).</climb><climb extra="↓" grade="16" length="80m" name="Lignum Vitae" number="LV" stars="**" id="12" fa="P. Jackson, R. McMahon, Jan 1971.">Practice your trad techniques on this baby. Follows the conspicuous black chimney in the centre of the steep and impressive wall. Scramble up and start 10m L of Black Magic. Note the dotted "LV" line on the topo is not strictly accurate. It is inclusive of the access scramble.
1. 50m. Up the chimney past three old and dodgy pins (still there in 2007) to a ledge at 35m. An intimidating move R and up to mount the overhanging block in the chimney before continuing to a bollard belay on a large ledge.
2. 30m. From the back of the ledge, climb the chimney in the corner and slab to a small tea-tree at the base of double-cracks in a corner. Climb the cracks and finish via a short chimney. Two abseils are required. A 25m abseil from slings accesses the Malignant Mushroom rap station (47m).</climb><climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="21" length="25m" name="Warm Glow" number="WG" stars="*" id="13" fa="R Parkyn, D. McConnell, 2003.">A line of U-bolts heads up the wall approximately 2m L of Lignum Vitae (LV). This route starts from the first belay of Heat Pump and runs parallel to its second pitch. Ascend the steep face L of the LV chimney to a ledge. Rap from the U-bolts.</climb><climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="22" length="50m" name="Heat Pump" number="HP" stars="***" id="14" fa="R. Parkyn, N. Hancock, 2002.">Leave your trad rack at home. Best on a warm day.
1. 25m 18. Start about 10m L of the scramble up to Black Magic. Following the line of U-bolts past the LH end of an overlap to a ledge.
2. 25m 22. Steep climbing between the arête and the prominent black streak on the LH side of the steep wall.</climb><climb extra="↓" grade="21" length="30m" name="Cold Power" number="" stars="***" id="15" fa="P. Steane, D. Fife, Mar 1996.">A scary start and a pumpy finish. This route is on the wall of the buttress R of The Wizard. It might be advisable to have your belayer stay down in the gully below to avoid the 4m horizontal fall factor 1.0 from the belay. Either way, if you fall off the bottom section your gear is unlikely to hold so take your pick: risk become a gurgling bloody mess via the 4m horizontal or painlessly take the 20m death plunge.</climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="80m" name="The Wizard" number="" stars="**" id="16" fa="K. Bischoff, P. Robinson, Feb 1981.">A spell-binding route that is best after a dry spell. On the LH side of Bulging Buttress, L of Lignum Vitae and obscured in the corner is a prominent line capped by a large overhang. Scramble up over blocks to the base of the line.
1. 25m. Climb up to the overhang, pass it on the L and follow the steep crack to a ledge.
2. 25m. Continue up a short, awkward corner to a large ledge then straight up to base of the black corner.
3. 30m. A demanding pitch. Up the vee-chimney, jam through the bulge and continue pleasantly to the top. Descent is possible down Avalanche Couloir with care. </climb><text class="heading3" id="17">SSSSI Wall</text><image src="sssiButtressPrint.jpg" width="700" id="18" legend="true" legendx="40" legendy="40">null<legend>20</legend><legend>21</legend><legend>22</legend><legend>23</legend></image><text class="text" id="19">A conspicuous clean black wall is situated above and L of the Wizard. Routes between Crazed and Confused and SSSSI are located on it. To gain access, climb 50m up Avalanche Couloir and scramble back R to the base of the wall.</text><climb extra="" grade="22" length="40m" name="Crazed And Confused" number="CC" stars="**" id="20" fa="N. Deka, D. Stephenson, Feb 1989.">The upper half of the black wall is split by a prominent crack. Crazed And Confused is the RH variant. About 15m R of SSSSI, locate a large pedestal at the base of a steep black streaked wall. Climb the LH side of the pedestal. Launch off this and up a short steep wall (crux) until it is possible to step L into the prominent crack. Climb the crack to its top and then mount the block on the L to a belay tape and abseil point.</climb><climb extra="↓" grade="22" length="40m" name="Beaten and Abused" stars="***" id="21" fa="D. Stephenson, N. Deka, Pete Steane, Feb 1989." number="BA">The sustained classic LH start to the upper crack of Crazed and Confused. Start just R of the arête to the R of SSSSI, at the base of the black streaks. Layback the thin flake to the horizontal break. Move R and climb the hand and finger crack past a couple of bulges to a second horizontal break. Step R and finish up the widening crack as for Crazed and Confused. The descent anchors for Mildly Amused are on the southern side of the summit blocks.</climb><climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="25" length="35m" name="Mildly Amused" number="MA" stars="***" id="22" fa="R. Parkyn, Feb 1999.">Start up the crack as for Beaten and Abused. At the horizontal break where Beaten and Abused goes R (at 6m) go slightly L and up (tricky) into the crack above until the first U can be clipped. Undercling around the flake (crux) then continue up the face and arête above. Good natural pro is available in the crack (wires and cams) then nine fixed anchors lead to a rap station. This route tends to remain dry even when the others on this wall are seeping.</climb><climb extra="↓" grade="22" length="40m" name="SSSSI (Seriously Searching For Sanity but Suiciding Instead)" number="SS" stars="***" id="23" fa="N. Deka and D. Stephenson freed the original aid line in Feb 1989.">A quality free route courtesy of an old aid line. The clean steep corner capped by a roof at 20m. Scramble across as for Crazed And Confused to the base of the corner. (1) Climb the thin corner crack to the roof. Step L and up to belay on a small ledge. (2) Climb easily up to the Mildly Amused. Rap station on the block above. N.B. Any old pegs on the line should be ignored and preferably removed as they are well past their useby date. K. Bischoff, G. Dixon, Feb 1981. FFA: S. Parsons, P. Bigg, and D. Fife freed the lower half in 1982.</climb>
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