<guide pagesize="500" version="2">
<header access="" acknowledgement="" history="" intro="This section of the guide covers the myriad of small crags found on the flanks of Mt Parsons and the peak to the right, as well as some random cliff on Mt Mayson and Schouten Island. There is some great climbing to be found amongst these crags, but some can be tricky to find." name="Hazards Craglets" rock="Pink and orange granite, 10-50m" sun="Afternoon sun" walk="10-40 mins" id="1"/><gps id="2"><point code="CBH200" description="Start of access to Inchman Crag (from Hazards Traverse track)" easting="609030" height="94" northing="5333931" zone="55G"/><point code="CBH210" description="Fat Slipper" easting="608748" height="111" northing="5333815" zone="55G"/><point code="CBH220" description="Inchman (base of Access scramble to Inchman climb)" easting="608642" height="110" northing="5333719" zone="55G"/></gps>
<text class="heading2" id="3">Wombat Crag</text><text class="Discussion" id="4">This crag is the confused mass of slabs, walls and scrub to the north of and below the summit of Mt. Parsons and is easily reached via the Skyline Traverse in about 40 minutes. Most existing routes are less than 80m high and the cliff faces east and north. There are three separate tiers of climbs.</text><image noPrint="false" src="Coles Bay Wombat.jpg" width="" id="5" legend="true" legendTitle="Wombat Crag" legendx="670" legendy="10"><legend>10</legend><legend>11</legend><legend>12</legend><legend>15</legend><legend>20</legend><legend>21</legend></image><text class="heading3" id="6">Upper Tier</text><text class="Discussion" id="7">The upper tier of Wombat Crag is a 50m high slabby wall up and to the left of Wombat Crag and provides a scenic nursery for gaining skills necessary for the Hazards more serious slabs. The left-hand end of the crag is easily identified by a prominent green spot (moss shrubs) halfway up a dark slab. Descent is by a large slabby ramp at the extreme right (north) of the cliff.</text><text class="Discussion" id="8">Access: Traverse right from the top of the first hill on the Skyline Traverse track, to the base of the cliff, about 40 minutes from Sleepy Bay.</text><climb extra="" grade="27" guide.action="submit" guide.id="7" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m" name="A Bolt From The Blue" number="1." stars="*" id="9" fa="Nick Hancock, Neil Mullinger, Nov 2002.">At the top of the east side of Wombat Crag Upper Tier, is a huge boulder with a green north-east arête (visible from Sleepy Bay car park). Begin at the boulder below the two carrot bolts. A #6 Rock is also necessary. </climb><climb extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="8" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="35m" name="The Green Spot Route" number="2." stars="" id="10" fa="L.Bottomley, A.Hasan, G.Cooper Jun 1992.">On the left-hand end of the wall at the top of a large pillar leaning against the main face to the left of the green spot. From the top of the pillar climb directly up the slab, two bolts provide protection. A direct start up the pillar would improve the route. </climb><climb extra="" grade="12" guide.action="submit" guide.id="9" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="50m" name="The Dragon Looked At Me" number="3." stars="" id="11" fa="L.Bottomley, Richard Eccleston Jun 1992.">50m right of The Green Spot Route, past a prominent chimney, the crag is divided by an obvious gully. Climb from the blocks to a short crack on the blunt arête formed by the gully's left-hand side. Move left onto the runout but easy slab. </climb><climb extra="" grade="15" length="60m" name="Inside The Dragon" number="4." stars="*" id="12" fa="G.Cooper, A.Hasan, L.Bottomley, J.Rackham, Jun 1992.">Very entertaining and a bit bizarre. To the gully's right there is a huge detached flake in front of the main cliff. This is The Dragon . 1. 10m Climb from the blocks up to the huge right tending ledge. 2. 15m Continue right inside the dragon until chockstones block passage. 3. 35m Crux. Chimney and bridge between the dragon and the mainface. Move precariously onto the main face and follow slab to the top. </climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="22" guide.action="submit" guide.id="11" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="35m" name="Smear Test" number="5." stars="" id="13" fa="Chris Snell, Sophie LeRoux, Nick Hancock Feb 2002.">This route is worthless. It is on the right side of the slab below and right of Inside the Dragon. Thinish moves past a U-bolt lead to easier climbing (16) past two more. Either go L up a wide crack, move R to join Entente Cordiale or down-climb and wonder why you bothered getting out of bed. </climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="23" length="35m" name="Entente Cordiale" number="6." stars="*" id="14" fa="Nick Hancock, Sophie LeRoux (alt.) with Chris Snell Feb 2002">1. 23 Climb the arête L of Where Wild Wombats Waltz past 4 U-bolts to a ledge below the headwall. 2. 21 From the ledge follow the runnel above via 3 U-bolts to a single bolt belay. </climb><climb extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="13" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="55m" name="Where Wild Wombats Waltz" number="7." stars="*" id="15" fa="Richard Eccleston, A.Hasan, L.Bottomley, Garn Cooper Jun 1992.">50m right of the gully The Dragon ends by forming an obvious corner against a compact slab immediatelt right of Entente Cordial. Take the slab direct, 5m right of the corner. Up slab passing a bolt to weakness in headwall and another bolt at 18m. Continue past bolt through the steepening scoop and up the easy slab to top. </climb><text class="heading3" id="16">Middle Tier</text><text class="Discussion" id="17">On the northern side of a gully north of Wombat crag is an elongated face averaging 30m in height. Rainy Day is the straight line about 200m from the upstream end just northwest of a wide ledge near the top. This cliff is the one below the upp tier and is best approached from below, not from the upper tier</text><climb extra="" grade="7" guide.action="submit" guide.id="16" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="27m" name="Rainy Day" number="8." stars="" id="18" fa="Phil Robinson, K.Kiernan Oct 1974.">On a small boulder in scrub at base of cliff. Up fairly easy angled slabs, keeping to the right of crack which affords some protection. Cross crack 6m from the top, incredible jugs lead up left wall to finish. </climb><climb extra="" grade="9" guide.action="submit" guide.id="17" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="45m" name="Phiningup" number="9." stars="" id="19" fa="Phil Robinson, K.Kiernan Oct 1974.">This route is the obvious crack on slab just west of two parallel and scrubby inclined gullies in second tier of cliffs on northern side of Wombat crag. Obvious corner with chockstones in initial 6m. Up corner, then angle eases. Follow steepening diagonal crack then finish on gentle angled slab. </climb><climb extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="18" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="85m" name="Pavlova" number="10." stars="" id="20" fa="Marcel Jackson with Hamish Jackson Dec 1989.">Starts left of the centre of the crag at a large slab region. Go left past the light water streaks to a small detatched buttress. There is an offwidth crack on the front and an evil chimney thing either side. The route takes a fourth option, a crack system on the RH side. 1. 12m Up to the top and belay over the back to the left of a large right and go up delicately to a runner at ~12m. Continue up to crack coming in from the right. 2. 25m Step off the pinnacle top onto the main face (no runners) traverse 3. 20m Up the face heading for the isolated bush. Just below are two depressions. The second one has another thin section. 4. Up past the bush and on to top. Peter Jackson. </climb><climb extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="19" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="30m" name="Downpipe-Crusher Wombat" number="11." stars="**" id="21" fa="Garn Cooper, Dave Gardner, Jun 1985.">Definitely worth the walk even if the others aren't. About 100m left of Composite Corner and 5m right of the huge main corner which can be clearly seen from the north on the way up from Sleepy Bay. Layaway up until you can move left onto the face. Up juggy slab to small diagonal ledge. Off left end of ledge up steep runout slab to small headwall. Left under headwall to weakness and up this to top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="13" guide.action="submit" guide.id="20" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="33m" name="Ursinus" number="12." stars="" id="22" fa="B.Lawson, D.Drake, Nov 1971.">The route keeps some 5m left of the major corner formed where the smooth slabby left hand side of the cliff meets the broken blocky right hand section. (Apparently difficult to find from that description). Start at a crack 5m left of the corner. Climb the crack awkwardly until an easy angled slab is reached at 12m. Move up the slab toward a corner some 10m high with a large bush at its foot. This is 6m left of a major corner. Move up past the bush to the foot of a good layback crack. Layback up for 3m, then step out onto a small stance on the right. Climb on up the corner to a belay stance at the top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="13" guide.action="submit" guide.id="21" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="" name="Ursinus (Var Start)" number="13." stars="" id="23" fa="R.Williams, G.Kowalik, Nov 1971.">The major corner 5m right of the direct crack. Chimney and thrutch up the curved, bottle necked chimney (bloody awkward) for about 4m then traverse left along a narrow ledge to join the direct route. </climb><climb extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="22" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="30m" name="Bengt Race" number="14." stars="" id="24" fa="L.Bottomley, A.Ross, May 1991.">Approximately 60m right of Downpipe-Crusher Wombat, 10m right of Ursinus, below a small detached buttress. 1. 13m Hand traverse along front of small buttress, and up onto it. Move right from the top, and up onto slab. 2. 17m Head up to the backwall and do the rightwards ascending traverse. </climb><climb extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="23" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="36m" name="Composite Corner" number="15." stars="" id="25" fa="C.Dawson, M.McWhirter (Pitch 2) Oct 1974.">Right on the west end of the crag near the more southerly corner. At the foot of the upper cliffs is a large flake 40m long and 15m wide. Access is through a cave heading north then traverse back to attractive line immediately to the right of the obvious face. Start at the belt of scrub at the top of the slab. 1. 26m Jam for 7m then cross wide vegetated ledge and up obvious line through overhang. Continue up twin cracks in right angled corner forming opposite right angle to ledge.  2. 10m Continue up crack (which thins out and eventually shuts down) by bridging. At the top of the crack and below the small roof move left onto exposed face. Move up wall to top. K.Kiernan, P.Robinson (Pitch 1) Oct 74. </climb><text class="heading3" id="26">Lower Tier (Inchman Crag)</text><text class="Discussion" id="27">The lower tier of Wombat Crag is actually not very near either of the other tiers The best way to find it is to look for the impressive looking zig-zagging flake that is the climb Inchman. This can be seen from the descent into Sleepy Bay, and from within the bay itself. It's to the right, on the south side of the valley gully formed by the creek running into the bay.
The cliff can be reached by walking on the skyline traverse past the Underworld.  50 m past where you leave the gravel and start up slabby rock head horizontally right below the lowest significant rock-band crossing a white streak of rock up the cliff (easily visible from Sleepy Bay) for 500 m to where the cliffs steepen. </text><text class="text" id="28">Editor's note - I'm not certain about the ordering of these climbs.</text><climb extra="8Þ" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="27" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="18m" name="Fat Slipper" number="" stars="" id="29" fa="N.Selby, A. Mason  7 Aug 2004.">This climb is on the south west side to the right of a crack/water streak.  Climb the slab on what you can find past 8 bolts to a rap point. </climb><climb extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="28" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="60m" name="Inchman" number="" stars="" id="30" fa="Peter, Marcel &amp; Hamish Jackson Dec 1989.">The line of the great flake on the hidden cliff below or in front of Wombat Crag. An impressive feature. Starts on the terrace (reached from the right) below the left facing curving offwidth. 1. The crack to the top of the flake. 2. Walk along the top of the flake. 3. Up the flake to the overhang, undercling left and up the corner easily to the top. Delightful. </climb>
<climb extra="" grade="23" guide.action="submit" guide.id="29" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="21m" name="The Second Mile" number="" stars="" id="31" fa="Marcel, Peter &amp; Hamish Jackson Dec 1989.">A direct start to Inchman. Below the terrace is a black slab with two bolts. Begin about 4m left of the bolts. Up for 3m and then move right rising to a faint line. On via bolts to top. </climb>

<climb extra="" grade="22" guide.action="submit" guide.id="30" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="70m" name="Spanner" number="" stars="**" id="32" fa="Marcel and Hamish Jackson, Feb 1999.">The only obvious weakness through the large sweeping wall right of Inchman.  Up the beautiful obtuse corner (with 2 seams facing each other), then exit out right (crux) to traverse gingerly across (not up!) the slab to join cracks.  Up cracks and face to tree belay.  Pitch 2 (12, 15m) as for Inchman.  The first attempt of the line (in January 1990) resulted in a serious ground-fall from above the first crack system.  Despite its history, this climb actually has quite adequate protection. </climb><climb extra="16Þ" grade="22" guide.action="submit" guide.id="31" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="50m" name="Knocked Up on Cheap Champagne" number="" stars="**" id="33" fa="N.Selby, R.DeCeasare 28 Aug 2004.">8m right of Spanner, start at a little roof then follow the bolts left and up (16 bolts to rap point). This climb can be done as two pitches but is best done in one.  You can rap the climb with one rope - it is a 20m rap then a 25m rap. </climb><climb extra="4Þ" grade="24" length="15m" name="Top of My To Do List" number="" stars="**" id="34" fa="Doug McConnell 2004.">20m right of Knocked Up climb a lovely pink seam to a DBB. </climb><text class="heading2" id="35">Gracelands Area</text><text class="heading3" id="36">Hancocks Knob</text><climb extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="35" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m" name="As Good As It Gets" number="" stars="**" id="37" fa="Nick Hancock, Jul 2001.">On open slabs at the southwestern end of Wombat Crag is a pinnacle with a sharp arête, easily visible from Gracelands. Climb this arête via wires and a carrot near the top. </climb><climb extra="5Þ" grade="26" length="15m" name="Sicker Than AIDS" number="" stars="*" id="38" fa="Nick Hancock &amp; Heather Trygstad, Jan 2005.">The overhanging arête right of As Good as It Gets, starting on the right. </climb><climb extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="37" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m" name="Gutter Snipe" number="" stars="" id="39" fa="Nick Hancock, Jul 2001.">The runnel on the east side. </climb><text class="heading3" id="40">The Kindergarten</text><text class="Discussion" id="41">You can see the crag across the gully from Wave Wall, and that's as close as you should go to it If you park in a small alcove (a blocked off vehicular track) on a rise, you're only about 150m away. From the road you should see a prow, head for this. Just before the prow there is a huge boulder with a slab that runs into a corner, this is Rough Play Princess. Head left at the boulder and up, to arrive on a large platform beneath the prow.</text><climb extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="40" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m" name="The Dungeon Masters" number="" stars="" id="42" fa="Grant Rowbottom, Evan Peacock, S.Ford, C.Reed Sep 1992.">Follow the crag line left for about 100m until it abruptly turns uphill. This is the route up the arête. Move up a groove to attain the start of an overhanging layback. Excellent moves through the layback to pull out onto a slab. </climb><climb extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="41" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m" name="Childhood Memories" number="" stars="" id="43" fa="Evan Peacock, T.Albion, C.Reed, Nov 1991.">About 15m left of The Cloakroom is a small ledge running up to a dubious flake, follow this. </climb><climb extra="" grade="" guide.action="submit" guide.id="42" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m" name="The Cloakroom" number="" stars="" id="44" fa="Top roped."> The left side of the prow. Start up the slab on the left side with the obvious undercling. Delicate moves up to the cave. </climb><climb extra="" grade="" guide.action="submit" guide.id="43" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m" name="Building Blocks" number="" stars="" id="45" fa="Top roped."> Start just right and around the corner of the slab below the prow. Follow the incipient crack in the slab to the headwall, up this trending slightly right through the overlap. Difficult crystal moves to finish. </climb><text class="heading3" id="46">Talking Rock</text><text class="Discussion" id="47">About 500m past Wave Wall on the other side of the gully stands a large (30m high) block which is visible from the road. Although it has only five climbs on it there are several more good looking lines there. Good for bouldering or toproping if the wind gets up and you definitely need to climb. Otherwise go for a walk and find some bouldering.</text><climb grade="16" length="15m" name="The Vacillators" number="" stars="" id="48" fa="K.Waldheim, Jun 1990.">The nice face just left of the corner just left of Little Green Monkeys. </climb><climb grade="19" length="12m" name="Little Green Monkeys" number="" stars="" id="49" fa="TR E.Peacock, G.Cooper, S.Ford, C.Reed Jun 1990.">The nice face about 15m left of the offwidth left of Quantum Fluctuations. Start at the obvious flake and go straight up. </climb><climb extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="48" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="8m" name="Homo Stone" number="" stars="" id="50" fa="TR E.Peacock, C.Reed, Jun 1990.">The undercut corner about 3m left of the offwidth left of Quantum Fluctuations. </climb><climb extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="49" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m" name="Quantum Fluctuations" number="" stars="" id="51" fa="Garn Cooper Mar 1986.">2m left of Hard Logic is a short arête with an extreme bouldery start which wasn't climbed. </climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="Hard Logic" number="" stars="" id="52" fa="Evan Peacock (solo) Jun 1990">2m left of Fret Arête. </climb><climb extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="51" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Fret Arête" number="" stars="" id="53" fa="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Pete Steane, Feb 1985.">Climb the arête closest to Mt. Amos. </climb><text class="heading3" id="54">Wave Wall</text><text class="Discussion" id="55">Found by Bluey Dawson and Ian Lewis. Wave wall is not worth the walk, if it's climbing your keen on, although this area is pretty good and worth exploring if you're into walking. It is an isolated crag about 60m high. To get there drive about 500m along the Sleepy Bay road from the turnoff, then walk towards the Hazards for about 100m. The crag is almost hidden by trees although the top is visible from the road. The left hand end is shaped like a wave.</text><climb extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="54" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="50m" name="Trout Mask Replica" number="" stars="" id="56" fa="I.Lewis, C.Dawson, Jun 1974.">Start 5m left of Sun Zoom Spark. 1. 25m Hand jam up and cross into offwidth . Up this to a tree and continue up awkward V-chimney to a terrace. 2. 25m Layback up right side of the flake, cross onto the left side and up to the top of it. Continue up the slab above without protection. </climb><climb extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="55" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="80m" name="Sun Zoom Spark" number="" stars="" id="57" fa="C.Dawson, I.Lewis, Jun 1974.">To the right of the wave are two cracks and then another with a large block at its base. This is it. 1. 34m Up crack to tree and keep going on incredible rock to ledge. 2. 46m Go right along ledge and layback under flake and up slab to top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="56" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Sliced Meat" number="" stars="" id="58" fa="C.Maddock, Feb 1985.">In the face approximately 4m right of start for Sum Zoom Spark is an obvious concavity, with a short shallow crack at its base. Up the shallow crack then right, up to where face steepens. Continue straight up low angle face to belay in Sun Zoom Spark. </climb><climb extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="57" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Diced Mice" number="" stars="" id="59" fa="TR Evan Peacock, T.Olding, Mar 1988.">Start immediately right of Sliced Meat. </climb><text class="heading3" id="60">Gracelands</text><text class="Discussion" id="61">Shambling over an elevated terrace across the valley from Talking Rock is a north facing set of cubic blocks. The terrace slopes down, the face leans out. There are some obvious bottomless cracks of character. The cliff is beautifully situated with views of Coles Bay and Sleepy Bay, punctuated by the hills of Wave Wall and Talking Rock.</text><text class="Discussion" id="62">Access takes about 20 minutes. Just past Wave Wall on the Cape Tourville Rd is a sharp left hand bend (no more than half a km from Coles Bay Rd turn-off). Park here. The route goes up the small valley to a saddle from which you can see Gracelands. Descend, then go up to the cliff.</text><image noPrint="false" src="coles bay gracelands.jpg" width="" id="63"/><climb extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="61" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Africa" number="1." stars="" id="64" fa="Marcel Jackson Jul 1990.">The crappy corner crack 30m left of Meaty Bites. </climb><climb extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="62" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Meaty Bites" number="2." stars="" id="65" fa="Peter Jackson, Marcel Jackson, Aug 1990.">Never mind the dog, feed your fists to this angry start. The difficulties ease to a nice overhanging corner. </climb><climb extra="4Þ" grade="22" guide.action="submit" guide.id="63" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m" name="Leap Of Faith" number="3." stars="**" id="66" fa="Gary Phillips, Sam Edwards, Sep 1995.">Through the roof left of Bodyguard. Stick clip the first bolt and continue past three more to the chain. </climb><climb extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="64" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Bodyguard" number="4." stars="*" id="67" fa="Peter Jackson, Marcel Jackson Aug 1990.">A pleasant layback start to this bottomless offwidth. Hidden holds make offwidth techniques unnecessary. Big pro and a steep finish add atmosphere. </climb><climb extra="4Þ" grade="23" length="12m" name="Goodness Gracious" number="5." stars="**" id="68" fa="Roger Parkyn Sep 1993.">A lovely route going up the slightly overhanging arête wall right of Bodyguard. Apparently Roger was ahead of his time installing Tasmania's first all U-anchor route, pity about the lack of lower-offs. </climb><climb extra="" grade="27" length="10m" name="Flow Rida" number="" stars="*" id="69" fa="Ken Palmer Mar 2008.">The finger bending wall right of Goodness Gracious moving right at the last bolt. </climb><climb extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="66" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="The Jaw" number="6." stars="**" id="70" fa="Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson Jul 1990.">A sporting start to the bottomless crack. Start the face just left of the crack and continue straight to the top. Fabulous deep slot halfway up. </climb><climb extra="" grade="24" guide.action="submit" guide.id="67" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Ju Ju" number="7." stars="" id="71" fa="Peter Jackson, Hamish Jackson Sep 1990. FFA Nick Hancock 10 Jun 2001.">The overhanging crack on the nose to the right. Continue up to the slot on The Jaw and finish up the offwidth on the right.</climb><climb extra="4Þ" grade="26" length="15m" name="Born Under a Bad Sign" number="8." stars="*" id="72" fa="Nick Hancock (climbing) &amp; Roger Parkyn (cheat stone support), Jun 2004.">Climb the arête right of Ju Ju. </climb><climb extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="69" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Free Space" number="9." stars="*" id="73" fa="Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson Jul 1990.">A superb, photogenic route. Up the crack on the right of the wall, crux at the top. Traverse left across the face to finish up the short crack. </climb><climb extra="" grade="22" guide.action="submit" guide.id="70" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="9m" name="Elvis Goes Metal" number="10." stars="**" id="74" fa="Roger Parkyn Sep 1993.">Bizarre double arête spanning can be used to ascend the lone pillar buttress right of Free Space. This route may be harder or easier depending upon your arm-span. </climb><climb extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="71" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Gumboots" number="11." stars="" id="75" fa="Peter Jackson Sep 1990.">The wide crack just right of the descent gully, awkward finish. </climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Dexterous Grey Turner" number="12." stars="" id="76" fa="Peter Jackson Sep 1990.">The corner crack just to the right. </climb><climb extra="4Þ" grade="24" guide.action="submit" guide.id="73" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="12m" name="Dead Can't Dance" number="13." stars="*" id="77" fa="Nick Hancock Sep 2001.">The face with 4 U-bolts just L of Lud Heat. Shares a double FH belay with Action Replay. </climb><climb extra="4Þ" grade="25" guide.action="submit" guide.id="74" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="12m" name="Action Replay" number="14." stars="***" id="78" fa="Sam Edwards, Garry Phillips Oct 1995.">Crank up the orange featured wall 3m left of Lud Heat, 4 BRs. Shares a double FH belay with Dead Can't Dance. </climb><climb extra="" grade="23" guide.action="submit" guide.id="75" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="13m" name="Lud Heat" number="15." stars="***" id="79" fa="Hamish Jackson Apr 1992.">A continuously overhanging and technical line up the centre of the red buttress left of Razoo. Up the overhanging corner, then through the roof and up the headwall. </climb><climb extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="76" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Homeless" number="16." stars="" id="80" fa="Marcel Jackson Sep 1990.">A forceful statement across the overhanging horizontal line on the next wall. Starts up Razoo to the overhang on the left. Traverse the obvious line left to finish on the broken rock. </climb><climb extra="" grade="12" guide.action="submit" guide.id="77" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Razoo" number="17." stars="" id="81" fa="Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson Jul 1990.">Climb the face on the outside of the wide sloping crack. </climb><climb extra="" grade="24" guide.action="submit" guide.id="78" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Infundibulum" number="18." stars="***" id="82" fa="Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson, Aug 1990.">The thin discontinuous crack up the overhanging face to the right (it looks laid back). Finish up the obvious slanting crack. </climb><climb extra="" grade="9" guide.action="submit" guide.id="79" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Simon Says" number="19." stars="*" id="83" fa="Peter Jackson, Marcel Jackson, Jul 1990.">Just round to the right an overhanging start gives way to moderate rock. </climb><climb extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="80" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Fingerprints" number="20." stars="*" id="84" fa="Marcel, Hamish &amp; Peter Jackson Sep 1990.">A very neat little route. A metre or so to the right of Simon Says. Up the steep face to mantel on the flake. Thin wires at this point. Finish direct. </climb><text class="heading3" id="85">Stealth</text><climb extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="81" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="35m" name="Stealth" number="" stars="" id="86" fa="Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson Aug 1990.">A few hundred metres to the right of Gracelands is a smooth sweep of rock with a thin diagonal running up right from low on the left. Begin below the left end. Up to the line at 8m (crux) and place a small piton runner. Continue across the line to finish on the hillside after it breaks up. Easier to the top. </climb><text class="heading3" id="87">Milennium</text><text class="Discussion" id="88">Ten minutes up the hill above Gracelands on the way to Broadway is a large south west facing block with thin flake blade in a gully on its right. Two climbs exist on the block.</text><climb grade="15" length="20m" name="Bladerunner" number="" stars="" id="89" fa="Nick Hancock 14 Aug 2001.">Climb the flake starting on the right. From the top of the flake follow cracks to the summit of the boulder. Unprotected for the first half and descent is best facilitated by counterbalance abseil. </climb><climb extra="4Þ" grade="21" length="15m" name="Milennium Falcon" number="" stars="*" id="90" fa="Nick Hancock 14 Aug 2001.">Just right of Blade Runner is an arête sporting 4 u-bolts (no lower-offs). </climb><text class="heading3" id="91">Broadway</text><text class="Discussion" id="92">Three routes on a crag about 20 minutes up the hill behind Gracelands. Follow the ridge until opposite another Sow-like cliff on the right. Cross the wide, shallow gully with ease and so to the cliff. There are some large flakes in the central broken section where two or three small trees grow. Left of these the angle is steep and inhospitable. The routes described are to the right.</text><climb extra="" grade="12" guide.action="submit" guide.id="88" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="45m" name="Schinus Molle" number="" stars="" id="93" fa="Hamish Jackson, Peter Jackson Apr 1992.">A ramp leads towards the trees from the right. 1. 30m Pull up to a jug and mantelshelf. Follow the ramp easily up left to ledges. Climb a short thin crack and go between large blocks to belay on ledge. 2. 15m Go up on small holds to finish direct. </climb><climb extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="89" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="35m" name="C 3 P O" number="" stars="" id="94" fa="Peter Jackson, Hamish Jackson, Apr 1992.">Start as for Schinus Molle. 1. 25m Continue more directly to go over a couple of steep steps and sparse protection. Head for the right hand end of the large rectangular flake. Belay on the ledge at the top of the flake. 2. 10m Step right and go up the twin fused cracks on excellent rock with little or no protection, an attractive finish. </climb><climb extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="90" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="35m" name="Tingles" number="" stars="" id="95" fa="H.Jackson, P.Jackson, Apr 1992.">An excellent little route with a serious crux and a delightful finish. Start right of the previous two routes just right of the white streaks. Go up past two diagonal cracks. Go up the thin line on a steep slab and head for the obvious slot at the top where protection can be organised. Continue to the bulge on the left. An easy crack leads through this and continues up to the top. </climb><text class="heading3" id="96">Speaker Box</text><text class="Discussion" id="97">Very roughly, at the same level as the base of Sow Spur and a long way to the left is a large rectangular boulder which is clearly visible from almost anywhere in Coles Bay. The easiest approach is via the foot of Sow Spur.</text><climb extra="5Þ" grade="27" guide.action="submit" guide.id="93" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="25m" name="The Crystal Maze" number="" stars="**" id="98" fa="Nick Hancock, Oct 2001.">The blank looking face 10 metres left of Greenvine via 5 U-bolts (no lower-offs). </climb><climb extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="94" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="25m" name="Greenvine" number="" stars="**" id="99" fa="Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson, Dec 1989.">A varied and characterful route up a great boulder. Start Below the one crack going up the middle and moving left at top. Boulder up to the glacis below the overhang, place a runner, and make a difficult mantel onto the hanging ledge on the right. Pull round the short impending wall and up to the big jug. Step left and follow the crack ot the top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="25" guide.action="submit" guide.id="95" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="30m" name="Speak Of The Devil" number="" stars="*" id="100" fa="Nick Hancock, Sophie LeRoux, Oct 2001.">Start up Greenvine and then move right along the dyke to the arête, where a rockover leads to a U-bolt. Pass this with difficulty and finish up the arête. </climb><climb extra="2Þ" grade="22" guide.action="submit" guide.id="96" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Sophie's Evil Choice" number="" stars="*" id="101" fa="Sophie LeRoux, Nick Hancock, Oct 2001.">Fifty metres above Speaker Box is a boulder with a sharp arete facing northwest. Climb this via 2 U-bolts to a lower off. </climb><text class="heading3" id="102">Mystic Cliff</text><text class="Discussion" id="103">This crag is located about 50 metres directly below Speaker Box. It can be identified by its very overhanging nature; being composed of big jutting roofs. The easiest approach is probably from above via Speaker Box, as the direct approach from just after the marshy gully on the Sow Spur track is through fairly dense bush.</text><climb extra="6Þ" grade="26" guide.action="submit" guide.id="99" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="To Light A Candle Is To Cast A Shadow" number="" stars="**" id="104" fa="Nick Hancock Mar 2002.">Just left of centre is a left facing corner guarded by a blank roof. Climb up slabby rock to a small bush and a 1 friend in an undercut. Move up right to a U-bolt then stretch across the roof to clip another. Gain the corner crack with difficulty and follow this to the capping roof. Move right to a rest on a spike, then traverse R along a rail to a hard finish straight up. 6 U-bolts in total. No lower offs. </climb>

<text class="heading2" id="105">Mt Mayson</text><text class="text" id="106">There are three crags on Mt Mayson with some OK routes and nice rock. To get there follow the walking track south towards Hazards Beach from the car park. After about 25 minutes the pyramid shaped upper crag is visible on the skyline. Walk another 5 minutes until the track starts going up hill over some slabs where you'll find a few painted yellow arrows marking the walking track. Leave the track here and head up towards a prominant boulder on the end of the ridge. Bash around the right hand side of this to gain the ridge, then follow the top of the ridge to the base of the less-than-vertical lower crag. In the middle of the crag is a prominent smooth white water streak.</text><image noPrint="false" src="mtmayson.jpg" width="" id="107" legend="true" legendx="10" legendy="400" legendTitle="Mt Mayson"><legend>109</legend><legend>110</legend><legend>111</legend><legend>112</legend><legend>115</legend></image><text class="heading3" id="108">Mt Mayson Lower Crag</text><climb extra="" grade="14" guide.action="submit" guide.id="106" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Antarctica" number="1." stars="" id="109" fa="Sam Martin, John Anderson 10 Jun 2001.">Start 5m to the left of Seams Ideal at the base of a buttress with a few semi-detached blocks. Follow the crack lines to the top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="107" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="12m" name="Seams Ideal" number="2." stars="*" id="110" fa="John Anderson 10 Jun 2001.">About 10m to the left of the water streak is a thin seam up the middle of a buttress. Bouldery start with RPs for protection. Climb the seam for 3m then reach out right for holds and up to jug (and a nut placement) at 5m, then more easily to the top. The seam direct has been done on toprope and is a grade harder. </climb><climb extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="108" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Son Of Scheming Saturn" number="3." stars="*" id="111" fa="Jon Nermut, John Anderson, Sam Martin 10 Jun 2001.">10m to the right of the water streak, past a broken corner and flake, is a shallow corner and crack below a bulge. Climb the face to the corner, then up to the bulge. Pull around on the left (crux) and then climb the juggy slab to the right of the crack to the top. Good value. </climb><climb extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="109" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Dos Gosanos" number="4." stars="*" id="112" fa="John Anderson, Jon Nermut 28 Dec 1997.">Start 3m to the right of Son of Scheming Saturn. Follow the line of weakness on good holds to the base of an offwidth, then climb the slab to the right to the top. </climb><text class="heading3" id="113">Mt Mayson Upper Crag</text><text class="Discussion" id="114">From the top of the lower crag head up and left to the base of the higher upper crag. There are a few more lines to be done here.</text><climb extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="112" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="35m" name="Rattus Splattus" number="5." stars="" id="115" fa="Jon Nermut, John Anderson 28 Dec 1997.">1. 25m Climb the obvious crack line in the centre of the cliff to the large ledge (better than it looks). 2. 10m Step right and bridge up the triple crack system (crux) to the very top of the buttress. </climb><text class="heading3" id="116">Earth Sea</text><text class="text" id="117">Just past the Mt. Mayson Crags, on the seaward side of the path (west). Half an hour from the Mt Amos car park, along the Hazards Beach track, you'll cross the open slabs mentioned above and shortly after a creek bed. Just after this head right through moderate scrub for a minute to a southwest facing sea cliff.</text><climb extra="" grade="26" length="30m" name="The Farthest Shore" number="" stars="**" id="118" fa="Nick Hancock, Mark Bennis, Nov 2001.">Abseil down a groove just left (looking out) of the prow of the cliff and swing past a big thread to belay below the feint central line up the shield. Climb to a good horizontal, then follow the desperate Arapiles-like seam to a good jug on the right. Go up left (#4 Friend) and follow the seam up the final headwall. </climb><text class="heading2" id="119">Schouten Island</text><text class="heading3" id="120">Schouten Island 'Shootin Dome'</text><text class="Discussion" id="121">There are some established climbs on Schouten Island, put up in around 1998. To get there you'll need a boat of some description. Head through Schouten Passage and into Trumpeter Bay. At the back of the bay is a penguin colony and small creek. Head ashore here. This is probably also the best spot to camp, as it is one of few with water. Shootin' Dome (as the cliff is called) is a 50m high inland dome, head SSW through the bush behind camp for about 2km (follow the most obvious weakness as there's no track).  The dome is on a high point and should be pretty obvious after about 30 mins.  </text><text class="Discussion" id="122">There is no real track up to the cliff, but approximately 45 minutes of bush bashing should get you there. Head for the slabs, which will then lead up to the Dome. Descent is best facilitated by walking down either left or right (depending on which is closest to your gear), though the FA party left a bomber wire in a central spot and used this while they were there to make descending easier. For the most part the climbing is on natural gear, but there are a few rap-placed carrots to ease the tension, so don't forget a couple of brackets.</text><image noPrint="false" src="coles bay schouten.png" width="" id="123">null</image><climb extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="118" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="40m" name="Unamed" number="" stars="*" id="124" fa="Robert Mcmahon, Adam Donoghue, Norm Selby, 1998.">Up the widish crack on the left of the dome (left of main arete), to a roof. Pass this and follow the left trending line to the top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="119" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="45m" name="Adrift" number="" stars="***" id="125" fa="Adam Donoghue, Norm Selby, Robert McMahon, 1998.">Start on the left hand arête of the main face. Head up for approx. 10m following the beautiful smooth hand crack, until it is possible to traverse left to the arête. Follow this until it is possible to follow the line and gear back rightwards to the top. A little spaced with gear but not frightingly so, a great all natural route on superb rock. The best route on the dome and a real stand out pitch. </climb><climb extra="" grade="22" guide.action="submit" guide.id="120" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="45m" name="Cortez" number="" stars="***" id="126" fa="Adam Donoghue, Norm Selby, Robert McMahon, 1998.">Start as for Under Tow, but head right after 10m to the orange stripes and crack. A strong line and a little reminiscent of the climb 'Incipience'.  A testing lead with sustained slabbing though very rewarding and a high quality climb. Up obvious cracks then a carrot to get to next crack system, then out onto crux slab with two more bolts and some exposure. </climb><climb extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="121" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="42m" name="Eager Triggers, Hidden Loot And Desperate Men" number="" stars="***" id="127" fa="Adam Donoghue, Norm Selby, Robert McMahon, 1998.">Start 5m right of Cortez the Killer. Climb the crack for around 10m, at which point you can move right a few meters and up to a carrot. From the bolt make your way left to the weakness and then back right to the top. A great climb that wanders in a interesting path up a good section of the dome. </climb><climb extra="" grade="23" guide.action="submit" guide.id="122" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="35m" name="The Groove Tube" number="" stars="**" id="128" fa="Adam Donoghue, Norm Selby, Robert McMahon, 1998.">Start 10m right of Eager Triggers, on the right of a leaning block at the obvious tube feature. Climb the block and the water washed groove, passing two carrots and some gear on the way. Quite thin slabbing to get going before easing to an interesting face/slab climb. </climb><climb extra="" grade="22" guide.action="submit" guide.id="123" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="35m" name="The Last Ride Out Of Texas" number="" stars="" id="129" fa="Norm Selby, Adam Donoghue, Robert McMahon, 1998.">Climb the incipient crack line a few meters right of Groove Tube. Quite runout and unlikely. Norm retreated upwards on the first ascent with the runout and difficulties escalating he gurgled down "I think I'm going to puke!"  Character building, not for someone with a weak stomach!</climb><climb extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="124" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="35m" name="Undertow" number="" stars="*" id="130" fa="Adam Donoghue, Norm Selby, Robert McMahon, 1998.">A few meters right of the last climb is the easiest line on the main face. </climb><climb extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="125" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Wandering Angus" number="" stars="*" id="131" fa="Robert McMahon, Adam Donoghue, Norm Selby, 1998.">About 15 to 20 meters right of the last climb is a wandering thin crack that leads up the slab. Follow this to the top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="126" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Incontinence" number="" stars="" id="132" fa="Robert McMahon, Adam Donoghue, Norm Selby, 1998.">To find this climb wander around to the back of the cliff to find a obvious crack-line near a boulder behind a tree. Climb to the top of the boulder and gain the left trending diagonal. Follow this, via the off-width, to the top. Was pretty weepy on the first ascent (a wet version of Incipience!). </climb><text class="heading3" id="133">Schouten Island Slaughterhouse Bay</text><text class="description" id="134">At the southern tip of the island. A long walk for little reward according to Neale.</text><climb grade="18" length="15m" name="Flea in the Ear" number="" stars="" id="135" fa="Neale Smith, Bruce Cameron, Easter 1981.">On the buttress looking like a dog's head. Follow the line via the ear. </climb><climb grade="17" length="13m" name="Sniffing Assholes With My Friend" number="" stars="" id="136" fa="Bruce Cameron, Neale Smith, Easter 1981.">A crack on the right side of the same buttress. </climb>

</guide>