<guide guidestars="***" pagesize="500" version="1"><header access="Ben Lomond is located about 50km south-east of Launceston. It shouldn't take much more than an hour to be at some of the closer crags, though with walks of up to two hours some are more suitable as weekend epics. Watch out for wildlife in the wee-hours, as the National Park is crawling with it. Anyone stupid enough to climb in the Carr Villa area during winter should note that they do not need to pay the entrance fee; this is for access via Jacobs Ladder to the ski resort. During summer there is no entrance station.<br/>To get there from Hobart, head north along the Midlands Highway, turning off R towards Evandale (just past Epping Forest, and 4km before Perth). In Evandale, turn L at the post office (Russell St) and stay on this road as it heads out of town and eventually turns to gravel (C413). Continue along the gravel road (take care - some corners are quite deceptive) until it joins another gravel road (Forest Rd) on a bend. Turn L sharply here and follow road to T intersection. Turn R onto the sealed Blessington Road (C401) and follow this until the Ben Lomond Rd turn off. Note: this is but one way of many, though it is perhaps the quickest.<br/>From Launceston, follow the road out of town to St Leonards then take Blessington Rd (C401) and continue to the Ben Lomond Rd turn off.<br/>Once on Ben Lomond Rd, head up the mountain (taking care for wildlife and the occasional fallen tree). To get to the Carr Villa scout hut carpark, take the turn off on the R just after the entrance station. For most crags park at Carr Villa.<br/>The crags are described left to right as you face them - eg East to West across the escarpment." acknowledgement="by Matt Perchard, Roger Parkyn & Andrew Bissett (after previous work by Robert McMahon), originally published in Craglets. Other topos and route descriptions by Dean Rollins and Andrew Geeves." history="" intro="The cliffs of Ben Lomond provide arguably the best climbing in Tasmania. Anyone interested in the finer points of jamming can perfect their skills here, with soaring, unblemished cracks of various widths rising side-by-side. But beware, one of the problems of climbing here is gear related - it is not uncommon that you will require at least four pieces of identical protection, so perfect are the cracks - some are known to require a rack of at least fifteen friends! The other down-side is that some climbers also find some of the climbing a little boring, so unchanging is its nature. <br/>Being near one of Tasmania's premier skiing resorts (if there is such a thing), climbing is only possible during the summer months. For those inclined, winter climbing would certainly provide new problems - don't forget the ice screws! At an elevation of at least 1300m, the crags are very high (by Australian standards). Even in summer weather changes will occur very quickly, so don't forget your warm gear or be prepared to shiver. On warm summers afternoons though, this place is complete bliss. <br/>There are few facilities in the park, so bring everything - lunch, clothes and water (for some crags). Don't forget either some tape for your hands or bandages - the choice is yours! The best map of the area is probably the Ben Lomond National Park Map and Notes, available from most camping stores, though it's hardly necessary.This guide is far from comprehensive, but contains enough of the good routes to get you started. For a comprehensive guide see "Memory of a Journey" by McMahon & Narkowicz.<br/>Note: The cliffs on Ben Lomond are widely considered to be in a no bolt zone. This is not the opinion of a mere individual, but the current consensus of the Tasmanian climbing community. In the future this situation may change so it should be considered an open topic for discussion (consensus climbing ethics aren't, after all, carved in stone). In the meantime please respect their current natural status; you are unlikely to run out of challenging climbs anyway." name="Ben Lomond - Northern Escarpment" new="false" rock="Alpine dolerite (varying from precise columns to blocky faces), from 50m to 200m" sun="Afternoon sun" walk="20-60 min" id="1"/>
<text class="heading2" new="false" id="2">Strickland Corner</text><text class="text" new="false" id="3">This buttress is above Strickland Corner, the first hairpin bend on Jacobs Ladder.</text><climb extra="" grade="10" length="65m" name="Strickland's Ladder" number="" stars="" id="4" fa="M. Douglas, I. MacDonald, April 1980.">Behind the parking area at this corner is a short gully between the buttress and a tower on its left. Go up the gully a few metres and climb a 10m corner to gain a platform abutting the face. Get into the alcove above the platform and surmount a bit of an overhang. The remainder of the route is an easy 50m face bearing prolific holds. </climb><text class="heading2" new="false" id="5">Tennant Buttress</text><text class="heading3" new="false" id="6">Upper Tenant Buttress Gully</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="upper tenant buttress gully.jpg" width="500" id="7"/><text class="text" new="false" id="8">Approach: Park at the top of Jacobs Ladder. Walk in a westerly direction for approximately 30 minutes to reach a small cairned summit between Tenant Buttress and Snake Buttress. From here the cliff is visible down in the gully.
All the routes were cleaned a little on lead but are still a bit lichenous on the bottom half. There are a few more lines to do that would need a good rap clean before climbing. </text><climb extra="" grade="18" length="22m" name="Whot-eva" number="1." stars="" id="9" fa="Ben Veltkamp, Andrew Geeves, Dec 2008.">Good hand jamming that gets wider and more strenuous at the top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="22m" name="Innit" number="2." stars="" id="10" fa=" Ben Veltkamp, Andrew Geeves, Dec 2008.">Tricky to start with, then easy jamming across the diagonal crack. </climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="22m" name="Geezers Need Excitement" number="3." stars="" id="11" fa="Ben Veltkamp, Andrew Geeves, Dec 2008.">Face climb past the dirty hand crack to a bush, then some o/w and jamming. </climb><climb extra="" grade="16" length="18m" name="De Klermont" number="4." stars="" id="12" fa="Ben Veltkamp, Andrew Geeves, Dec 2008.">Finger and hand crack with some good holds on the face. </climb><text class="heading2" new="false" id="13">Snake Buttress</text><text class="text" new="false" id="14">The next buttress L of the Pavilion. Access as for Pavilion, but keep walking a few hundred metres L towards the next buttress, then up scree to foot of crag. Descend by walking down scree back towards the Pavilion.</text><climb extra="" grade="15" length="50m" name="Sweet Surrender" number="" stars="" id="15" fa="McMahon, Maddison.">Bridging L-facing corner up the centre of the cliff. Scramble up to grassy ledge at base to begin. Thoughtful bridging up a mossy crack past some tricky bulges to a semi-hanging belay below clean wall on the R. Second pitch is easy, or else climb FKIADD (a much better idea). </climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="20m" name="French Kisses in a Darkened Doorway" number="" stars="" id="16" fa="Maddison, McMahon.">The intermittent crack system up the middle of the clean wall at the upper R of the crag. Climbed as a second pitch to Sweet Surrender. Awkward start and some tricky, technical moves. </climb>
<text class="heading2" new="false" number="null." id="17">The Pavillion</text><text class="text" id="18">The Pavillion can be seen from the Carr Villa scout hut. It is the large, foreboding looking buttress that sits on the lefthand side (as you look up from below) of the walking track from the summit The best way to get there is to follow this track until you are level with the base of The Pavillion. At this point you should see a faint track that veers off left across a scree slope towards the cliff. Keep skirting the bottom of the cliff until you can see a large ledge that runs along the base. This is best reached by bashing up the line of smashed scrub formed by some rockfall (you can't miss this, it looks like someone's been there with a brush cutter). Once on this terrace head to the left. The next climbs are found there.</text><climb extra="" grade="20" length=" 95m" name="Brother Jack Straw" number="" stars="" id="19">At the lefthand end of this terrace (to keep going you have to start climbing, although after 5m or so you'd reach the top of a block). The line above you is the one you're after.
1) Bridge up a little way, then follow the line up. Beware of the loose pillar. When the going looks like it is going to get really hard, go left (at the obvious horizontal) and then up to belay on a large ledge.
2) You should start this pitch on the lefthand end of the belay ledge (10m or so left of the chimney the splits the buttress). Follow the cracks up to a rounded roof, pass this on the right, then trend right to a good belay slot.
3) You can finish straight up, or better still is to head left under the roof, passing it on the left, then head back right and on to the top.
Descent is usually made by walking down, via the summit/Carr Villa track.</climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length=" 90m" name="Sirocco" number="" stars="" id="20">About 10m right of Brother Jack Straw is a right trending/curving line.
1) Follow this up to the top of a pillar.
2) Continue up the line until it is possible to move right into the chimney. Continue up.
3) Up to the top.
Descent as above.</climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="60m" name="Krokadyl" number="" stars="" id="21">20m right of the big gully up the cliff.
1) 25m 17. A splitter line in the face to a double bolt belay on top of detached, coffin-like, block.
2) 40m 17. Continue up right-facing corner with finger-sized crack.
3) 10m 15. Up chimney to double bolt belay (??).</climb><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="ben lomond sketch map.png" width="" id="22"/>
<text class="heading2" new="false" number="null." id="23">Local Loser</text><text class="text" new="false" id="24">Directly above Carr Villa is a small but steep little cliff known as Local Loser. It is clearly visible above the Scout Hut, at the top of the scree slope, a short twenty-minutes walk away, and is well worth the effort. The cliff is also pleasantly sunny.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" number="null." src="ben lomond local loser.png" width="" id="25">null</image><climb extra="" grade="18" length="30m" name="Black Act" id="26" fa="I.Thomson, R.McMahon, Jan 78.">Follow the groove on the left of the cliff to the ledge below the 30° roof. Power up the leftward leaning crack up through the roof and finish. </climb><climb extra="" grade="14" length="45m" name="Local Loser" id="27" fa="R.McMahon, B.Easter, Mar 73.">The first route on the cliff. Follow the flakes in the corner left of the overhands. Move out left over dinner-plates under the roof, finishing up the corner leading out right. </climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="45m" name="Vitrac" id="28" fa="R.McMahon, 1973.">On first ascent this was a pretty serious lead - new protection makes it better protected these days. Climb the obvious corner, with some difficult thin sections. </climb><climb extra="" grade="23" name="Maltese Falcons" id="29" fa="J.Smart, Jul 80.">Climb the overhanging face, mostly on layaways and sloping pockets. Supposedly one of the most technical routes on the mountain. </climb><text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="30">The most prominent reference feature is the super-dihedral with a fused crack. This is not (yet) a climb. Hidden Secrets starts about 5m left of this. </text><climb extra="" grade="20" length="40m" name="Hidden Secrets" number="" stars="" id="31" fa="Colin Rees.">Start at the right end of the large boulder standing out from the base of the cliff. Climb up the corner system, over the bulge, then traverse right. Climb upwards when you get to the famous "creaky hold". Belay on the large ledge. </climb><climb extra="" grade="26" length="45m" name="Small Change and the Big Time" number="" stars="" id="32" fa="Adam Donoghue 2000.">Up face R of the big blank corner, climbing seams. </climb><climb extra="" grade="23" length="40m" name="Born Loser" number="" stars="" id="33" fa=" G.Narkowicz, Jul 1984.">Climbs a series of left-facing corners left of Local Winner. The FFA took five 8m screamers from the crux over two attempts before cracking it. </climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="35m" name="Local Winner" number="" stars="" id="34" fa="G.Narkowicz, R.McMahon, Jul 83.">Climb the corner, then break out right onto the face - don't go up the next corner. The face has adequate (although spaced) protection and leads to a prominent undercling. Move slightly right again, then up to finish. </climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="45m" name="Lapus Lazuli" id="35" fa="McMahon, Thomson, Jan 78.">Begin in the cleft on the right of the cliff and strike out left up the face. Ordinary climbing with a poxy finish; definitely not "the classic of the cliff". </climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="35m" name="Spirit of Place" id="36" fa="G.Narkowicz, Feb 84.">Start behind the pinnacle of rock (which is not shown on the topo). Bridge up until you can gain the thin finger crack, then follow the line to the top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="14" length="35m" name="Woffal" id="37" fa="McMahon, Burnett, K.Smith, 1973.">Climb straight up the cleft. Again, one of those climbs more reminiscent of caving than climbing; this is not what you come to the Ben for. </climb>
<text class="heading2" new="false" number="null." id="38">Bullfighter Buttress</text><text class="text" new="false" id="39">Left of Frew's Flutes is a columnar cliff of immaculate precision which is no more than 60m high, called Bullfighter Buttress. The climbs look much harder on sight than they are in fact.</text><text class="text" new="false" id="40">When standing directly in front of Bullfighter Buttress, a short wall is visible down and just right of the main cliff. There are some short lines here. (Note: I'm pretty sure this is where Picador is, the only thing not matching the description is the length, but I can't find any other lines in the area that fit...)</text><climb extra="" grade="23" length="10m" name="Walk Like An Egyptian" number="" stars="" id="41" fa="Nic Perndt, Dec 2008.">A thin and technical boulder problem start leads to a hand crack at the top (past some greenery). </climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Picador" number="" stars="" id="42" fa="John Smart, Shane Carson, Mar 1979.">The short but appealing crack down and just R of the main Bullfighter Buttress cliff. </climb><text class="heading3" new="false" id="43">Isis Buttress</text><text class="text" new="false" id="44">The slender buttress towards the bottom of the descent gully that faces the car park. There are two prominent corner crack lines, both of which are a good intro to the area if you want to test your jamming skills and are not yet up for one of the longer routes on the Flutes. Approach from the L at a point in the gully level with the base of the routes. Descend by fixed tape/rope abseil at top of LOTMS.</text><climb extra="" grade="17" length="25m" name="Land of the Midnight Sun" number="" stars="" id="45" fa="Shane Carson, John Smart, Mar 1979.">The LH corner. Straight forward jamming up the corner, widening just before the ledge. </climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="25m" name="Champagne Jam" number="" stars="" id="46" fa="John Smart, Shane Carson, Mar 1979.">The RH corner. Clamber R onto block to start. Jam and bridge the corner, moving L at the top to belay on same ledge as LOTMS. </climb><text class="heading3" new="false" id="47">Osiris Buttress</text><text class="text" new="false" id="48">This is the next chuck of rock uphill from Isis Buttress and on the same side of the descent gully (opposite Bullfighter Buttress). Approach by traversing in from high up in the descent gully. Descend by an easy walk off the back.</text><climb extra="" grade="20" length="18m" name="Left Foot, Right Foot" number="" stars="" id="49" fa="Dean Rollins, Nic Perndt, Jan 2009.">Up slab made by fallen pillar then take short hand crack on R to reach sloping ledge. Climb the crack splitting the face past a section that is not the most friendly of sizes. </climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="18m" name="Matter of Time" number="" stars="" id="50" fa="Nic Perndt, Dean Rollins, Jan 2009.">As for LFRF to the sloping ledge, then take the dark crack in the corner. </climb><text class="heading2" new="false" number="null." id="51">Frew's Flutes</text><text class="text" new="false" id="52">The crag of Frew's Flutes, in particular Robin's Buttress, provides the most consistently hard cliff on the mountain and the most regular columnar cliff in the state, perhaps Australia. Varying in height from 30m to 180m, it is close to a 1km long. The distinct face on the L is named Robin's Buttress after English climber Robin Thomson, who, fresh from Yosemite, pioneered many of the exhausting jam cracks in 1978.</text><text class="text" new="false" id="53">The rock is wholly sympathetic in frictional texture but unrelentingly steep. Note that a high degree of fitness is required, even on the easiest routes.</text><text class="text" new="false" id="54">See Robin's Buttress section for detailed access and descent info.</text><text class="heading3" new="false" id="55">Descent Gully Area</text><text class="text" new="false" id="56">The following route is along the track heading back to Robin's Buttress. It is a prominent dihedral about 50m along from where the track branches off the main scree gully.</text><climb extra="" grade="23" length="25m" name="Turbulence" number="" stars="" id="57" fa="Dean Rollins, Nic Perndt, Jan 2009.">Start up the short hand crack on the L, then move R into the line along rail and climb the thin open-book corner. To descend, traverse R around block (stay roped up) and then downclimb easy gully. </climb><text class="text" new="false" id="58">Further along this descent track to Robin's Buttress, a short and rather unremarkable cliff band is visible on the R just before the saddle.</text><climb extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Arse Floss" number="" stars="" id="59" fa="Been done before? If not then: Tim Stubley, Dean Rollins, Dec 2008.">The crack towards the L end of the wall (with a scoop high on the L). Thin at the start, then widens towards the top. </climb><text class="text" new="false" id="60">Down the final gully to the base of Robin's Buttress, the descent passes a mossy black wall on the R with a few brushed lines. This is shady side of the Descent Gully Pinnacle. There are also some short routes on the Heathcliff facing (west) side of the pinnacle. They are on the L when looking up at Robin's Buttress from the scree, the first route being at the far L of the lower wall. Descend by tape abseil or by scrambling down the NW corner (coming out just along from SSHS). Routes described L to R (counter-clockwise).</text><climb extra="" grade="25" length="10m" name="Super Snappy's Homemade Salsa" number="" stars="" id="61" fa="Nic Perndt, Dean Rollins, Jan 2008.">Short but surprisingly sustained stemming. Sufficient stonker stopper placements with some supplementary SLCDs constitute protection, placed from solid stances. Surpass slopey sidepulls and slippery smears to send successfully and summit. Stupendous. </climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="15m" name="Stuck Cam Crack" number="" stars="" id="62" fa="Unknown.">At the R end of the wall is a little recess with 3 wide lines. Bridge and jam up the centre and RH one. There was a rigid friend stuck 5m up for a while, but it is now gone. Pink sling at top. This could actually be Split Surprises? (p. 62). </climb><text class="text" new="false" id="63">Now on to the black mossy wall.</text><climb extra="" grade="18" length="18m" name="Sam's Route" number="" stars="" id="64" fa="Pete Steane, Adrian Herington, Nov 1996.">Towards the L end of the wall is a clean, brushed line. The longest crack in the vicinity not broken by a ledge. Starts as thin hands and finishes with fists. </climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="20m" name="Back to the Womb" number="" stars="" id="65" fa="Tony Dignan, Mark Moorhead, 1980.">The brushed finger crack towards the R of the wall. Follow the lack of moss. </climb><text class="heading3" new="false" id="66">Robin's Buttress</text><text class="text" new="false" id="67">This buttress has the highest concentration of classics on the plateau; with a selection of long, sustained pitches of a variety of widths and styles.</text><text class="text" new="false" id="68">Access:
A cairned route heading west across the scree starts about 100m up the summit track, staying up high to avoid the bands of scrub. A quicker alternative is to head diagonally up through the scrubby scree to join up with the aforementioned cairned route. It is approximately 30 minutes of easy rock-hopping from Carr Villa to the buttress. When in the "scree saddle" under the big cliff, look up and you'll hopefully see the penis of rock (aka "the donga") at the base of the cliff proper. This is where Rajah and the like start.</text><text class="text" new="false" id="69">Follow the cairns up towards Robin's Buttress to a well-worn approach scramble up the scrubby cliffs below the donga. After the section with the fixed rope the track forks; the L fork leads to the Rajah area (and routes further L), and the R fork leads to the Barbe di Vendetta area (and routes further R).</text><text class="text" new="false" id="70">Descent:
The routes on Robin's Buttress top out at a flat, rocky outcrop. At the carpark end a path is visible a few metres back from the cliff edge. Follow this and keep an eye out for more paths and cairns leading towards the head of the broad gully a few hundred metres away. Don't be tempted into straying L into the gully too early, or you may end up having to do some short (but easy) down climbing. The main descent track to the head of the gully is a very simple walk.</text><text class="text" new="false" id="71">Once at the top of the gully, head down the scree following cairns. The main gully heads all the way down past Bullfighter Buttress, and meets up with the cairned route from the car to the Flutes. However, towards the top, another track branches off and heads L (as you walk down), up over the saddle, and down a rocky gully. The start of this track is cairned well, and it sticks quite close to the cliff line. If walking down, it is the quickest and easiest way back to the base of Robin's Buttress.</text><text class="text" new="false" id="72">Alternatively, it is possible to rap off a number of the routes after the 'main' pitches by slinging chockstones and horns. This is a popular way to get off many route, as it avoid the lower quality rock towards to top of the cliff. However, despite the reputation of the top section of the cliff being a total pile of choss, a number of the more popular routes stay relatively solid to the end; for example, Rigaudon and Ramadan. If you do rap off, don't trust any existing tat blindly, and don't count on your old tat being there next time you do a certain route.</text><text class="text" new="false" id="73">There used to be a bolted rap station just right of Rajah but this was removed in 2007, in the interests of keeping Ben Lomond bolt free.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" number="null." src="ben lomond robins.png" width="" id="74">null</image><climb extra="" grade="" length="45m" name="Rock-a-Bye Baby" number="" stars="" id="75" fa="R.McMahon, H.Smith, 1977.">A route on the left, diminutive edge of the buttress. Some face climbing and a flaring, thrutching chimney. (Alright, I said they were all classics; this is the exception that proves the rule, so read on. - Ed). </climb><climb extra="" grade="21" length="65m" name="Captain Planet" number="" stars="" id="76" fa="Andrew Geeves, Ben Veltkamp (alt.) Feb 2010.">Access: Located on the far left of Robin’s Buttress. Walk up the descent gully, near the top of the scree section it is possible to scramble back right to the base of the main cliff. The climb starts up the corner with a finger crack.
1) 20m 21. Climb finger crack to a ledge at 7m. Continue finger locking and laybacking up corner until an exciting exit up the slabby groove.
2) 35m 21. What a splitter! Easier than it looks thanks to numerous face holds. Directly off the belay is committing as it is difficult to place gear from the face holds. Alternatively, it is possible to climb up right and step into the line.
3) 10m easy.
Solo to top Gear: 1 set wires, double cams from tips to 0.4 lots of 0.5, 0.75 & 1, 2ea of 2, 3 optional. </climb><climb extra="" grade="16" name="Farewell the Trumpets" id="77" fa="R.McMahon, J.Smart, Jul 80.">Located just left of Rissorgimento. </climb><climb extra="" grade="" length="" name="Rissorgimento" number="" stars="" id="78" fa="R.McMahon, M.Broadbent, J.Fantini, Jul 80.">Located left of the main difficulties of the cliff. </climb><text class="text" new="false" id="79">For the far L of the buttress (up to and including Die Nadel) climb a short approach pitch (15) to the slopey ledge system.</text><climb extra="" grade="22" length="25m" name="Necrophiliac" number="" stars="" id="80" fa="Nic Perndt, Dean Rollins, Jan 2009.">The line L of the original first pitch to Necromancer. Step in from hand crack on the L, then climb the sustained hand and finger crack, finishing at the top of the square cut pillar. </climb><climb extra="" grade="21" length="90m" name="Necromancer" number="" stars="" id="81" fa="G.Narkowicz, G.Hyland, Feb 84.">The second line L of Defender of the Faith. "A real flirtation with death". Destined to be a classic if someone can be bothered abseiling to clean it.
1) 25m 19. Bridge and jam up the flared corner with the black scoops in it. Layback over a small roof, then hand jam to belay on top of the square-cut pillar.
2) 45m. Bridge up the corner to the 1m roof, with small runners for protection.
3) 20m. Turn the roof on the left, then continue up small layaways (the crack blanks out) and face climb 10m to a blank corner.
A bit of a death lead (laybacking on a loose flake 7m from your last runner), till the hand-crack and salvation.</climb><climb extra="" grade="23" length="" name="Darkness Visible" number="" stars="" id="82" fa="D.Ng, D.Vision, Mar 90.">An amazing set of tram tracks tucked around the corner.
1) 25m. Climb pitch 1 of Necromancer (19) or Necrophiliac (22) to the top of the inital pillar.
2) 50m 22/23. Climb straight up the twin crack system on the R (through a couple of v-shaped roofs?). Take lots of #7, #8 & #9 stoppers and ½ and ¾ camalots.</climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="30m" name="Die Nadel" number="" stars="***" id="83" fa="T.Dignan, M.Moorhead, 1980.">A long and sustained hand crack up the wall 5m L of Defender of the Faith, finishing at its belay. Take lots of #1 and #2 (Camalot) sized cammers. Up the chimney for 10m to the ledge on the left. Rest. Rest again. Rest yet again. Follow the crack and go for it. Finish up pitch 3 of Defender. </climb><text class="text" new="false" id="84">For Defender to Rajah area, continue up the track to the base of your chosen route. A short scramble is required to reach the base of Rajah.</text><climb extra="" grade="22" length="85m" name="Defender of the Faith" number="" stars="**" id="85" fa="To the top.
S.Parsons, R.Staszewski, P.Bigg, Jan 81.">Start 5m L of Rajah in a spacious alcove (as for Rigaudon).
1) 20m 18. Up the offwidth as for Rigaudon, to the same belay ledge.
2) 35m 22. Climb the line L of Rigaudon. A fantastic long and sustained pitch. Although the route follows a crack, most of the climbing is on face holds. Very well protected; small cams and nuts are useful.
3) 30m 18. </climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="10m" name="Governor of the Realm" id="86" fa="R.Wells, P.Steane, Feb 94.">Climb the thin direct start to Defender of the Faith. Protection in RP's. </climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="90m" name="Rigaudon" number="" stars="" id="87" fa="R.McMahon, I.Thomson, C.Larque, Jan 78.">"A line of ferocious purity that would have Comici speechless." Start 5m L of Rajah in a spacious alcove.
1) 20m 18. Climb the off-width until it becomes wide enough to get inside and chimney (crux pitch for most climbers; non-crux for connoisseurs of off-widths). Place gear high up in Ramadan before starting if you're not feeling brave (note: the official term for this is 'cheating', but it's better than smacking into the ground). There's gear higher up in the chimney, once you get inside the beast.
2) 58m 20. Jam, bridge and layback the dihedral above, then continue to a ledge just below the top. There are spots to rig a decent hanging belay from about the 45m mark onwards if your rope isn't long enough, but the full, rope-stretching pitch is recommended.
3) 10m 17. To top.</climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="80m" name="Ramadan" number="" stars="***" id="88" fa="Thomson, McMahon, Jan 78.">A striking line, and again, a good beacon to get bearings off (when you find it). This is Rigaudon's neighbour, the recessed column with a flaring corner. Strenuous and sustained.
1) 45m 19. Start from the same alcove where Defender and Rigaudon start. Climb the finger crack to the R of Defender. The crack gradually widens to near off-width, before closing again into generously spaced finger/hand pods. Finish on top of pillar (as for Rajah). This is a long and strenuous pitch. Alternative finish: Exit out right via a flake/crack at about 35m, then continue up to same belay ledge.
2) 35m 18. Continue up the hand/fist crack on the R, through the (problematic) bulge, before easing as the rock becomes friable towards the top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="23" length="20m" name="Rajah Eliminate" number="" stars="" id="89" fa="Robert Staszewski, Karen Sippel, Jan 81.">A variant start to Rajah, ascending the technical finger-crack R of Ramadan. Originally climbed with two rests, but later led free. </climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="80m" name="Rajah" number="" stars="**" id="90" fa="Lockwood, I.Thomas, Mar 78.">Each of the three pitches on this route are superb, and together they form one of the loveliest 18's in the state. Start off the 'donga', below the 15m hand crack on the L.
1) 15m 18. Climb the hand crack to the large ledge on the left. Take plenty of 2½ to 3½ Friends. Linking through the next pitch is recommended if you have sufficient gear.
2) 30m 18. The hand crack continues, with one difficult section where it becomes off-width (though you can skimp out to the right), to another great belay ledge atop the Ramadan pinnacle.
3) 40m 18. As for Ramadan.</climb><climb extra="" grade="" length="80m" name="Rajah Variant Finish" number="" stars="" id="91" fa="I.Thomas, B.Maddison.">At the 45m mark, cross the face of the column (exposed) into Rigaudon and finish up that climb. </climb><climb extra="" grade="" length="88m" name="Poetic License" number="" stars="" id="92" fa="M.Colyvan, N.Smith, Feb 83.">Starts 1m R of Rajah. The first crux pitch of 23m bridges and laybacks the thin crack to a ledge. The second of 45m ascends over blocks, then the short curving crack (R of the nasty chimney/offwidth) to a ledge. Continue up the wide crack to a stance above the block roof. And the final third pitch of 20m bridges up the twin cracks to the top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="" name="Roger Casement" number="" stars="" id="93" fa="Maddison, McMahon, Apr 80.">Climbs straight up the widish crack behind where the abseil used to go. Start not far R from Rajah and climb up to the rusty piton. Head on up, finishing up the off-width. </climb><climb extra="" grade="19" name="Swallow" id="94" fa="R.McMahon, D.Stephenson.">Unknown. </climb><text class="text" new="false" id="95">For Barbe di Vendetta area, take the R fork of the access scramble after the fixed rope and cross the head of a gully, then scramble up to the ledge at the base of the routes. This is about 60m R of the previous area.</text><climb extra="" grade="21" length="90m" name="Dangerman" number="" stars="**" id="96" fa="P.Bigg, S.Parsons, R.Staszewski, Jan 81.">A true classic. The obvious bridging/laybacking problem. Start on the block, about 5m L of Master Blaster.
1) 35m 21. Laybacking, stemming and jamming up the crack systems to a cosy belay perch (level with the bollard on Master Blaster). "The calf workout from hell".
2) 18. Continue up the line.
3) 16. Wander to the top via the line of least pox.</climb><climb extra="" grade="24" length="100m" name="Master Blaster" number="" stars="" id="97" fa="R.Staszewski, S.Parsons, P.Bigg, Jan 81.">Was for a long time the hardest crack on the Ben, and is still considered something of a testpiece. Again a good climb to get bearings off, with its notable soaring first-pitch crack for 40m, with a resilient small bush at 10m.
1) 40m 24. The straight crack, going from tips lay-backs to a fist crack. The crux is down low. It is possible to rap off a spike/bollard at 25m, where the best part ends.
2) 20. Continue up.
3) 17. Straight-forward to the top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="21" length="80m" name="Aquilla" number="" stars="" id="98" fa="J.Fantini, M.Ling, 1983.">The finger-crack in the corner L of Barbe di Vendetta and R of Master Blaster. The crack is often wet, hence its black appearance on the first pitch. "If Rigaudon would leave Comici speechless, then this would turn him to religion".
1) 15m 19. Steamy stemming up the dihedral. A finger crack provides some security. Belay at the ledge on the right wall (similar to the Barbe Di belay). Wires are useful as the column is offset, making placing cams a bit iffy.
2) 30m 21. Continue up the crack to belay behind the detached block. Purists will prefer doing pitches one and two together, thus ensuring that characteristic Ben Lomond full-body-fuck.
3) 35m 19. Follow the continuation of the crack through the bulge (difficult), then wind your way up to the top.</climb><text class="text" new="false" id="99">Between the corner of Aquilla and the hand crack of Barbe Di Vendetta is a thin crack, which may have been aided before. Nevertheless, it has seen a determined effort at being freed, and would make for a phenomenal hard and well-protected route. However, the proximity of the L wall of Aquilla makes the route quite contrived at the crux.</text><climb extra="" grade="18" length="75m" name="Barbe Di Vendetta" number="" stars="**" id="100" fa="Rosebery, Morris, Kennedy, 1977.">The most varied route on the buttress and the most sympathetic to the (normal) climber who has an aversion to marathon jamming pitches (originally a half-hearted climb and named Traffic Jam). A good warm-up. Start in a definite hand crack on the L of a column and R of Aquilla.
1) 30m 18. Climb straight up the crack, with superb jams, past three steps.
2) 30m 18. Jam up the corner, through an awkward small roof, then on to belay.
3) 15m 16. Climb up the faces at the top. As usual the quality of the rock deteriorates with height.</climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="70m" name="Barbe Di Vendetta Variant" id="101" fa="Lockwood, McMahon, I.Thomas.">On the second pitch, go out right onto the face of the column, instead of continuing up the crack.</climb><text class="text" new="false" id="102">For routes R of BdV, approach as for BdV and continue along the scrubby terrace just below the cliff for about 20m. A short approach pitch will be needed for some of these routes, but routes in the Rondeau area can be accessed by scrambling around the bushy corner at the far end of the ledge.</text><climb extra="" grade="23" length="100m" name="Climbers Variant" number="" stars="" id="103" fa="P.Bigg, S.Parsons, R.Staszewski, Dec 80.">Shit name, great route.
1) 30m 20. Twin cracks. A classic pitch. (PB)
2) 15m 23. Short crux corner (take wires). (SP)
3) 20m 22. Technical fingerlock crack. (RS)
4) 35m 17. Loose corner and crack to top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="17" name="Rigor" id="104" fa="S.Parsons, N.Smith, Dec 80.">Start around the corner from Barbe Di Vendetta. Jam up the crack into the off-width; jam up the offwidth into the chimney; jam up the chimney to the face... up this to a ledge, then return to offwidth dis-technique to the roof. Hokey-pokey right, up the chimney, jam crack. Hokey-pokey right, up the wide crack and on to the top. Follow that?</climb><climb extra="" grade="23" length="100m" name="Quietly Unimpressed" id="105" fa="P.Bigg, R.Staszewski, S.Parsons, Dec 80.">Again details are sketchy. Pitches of 18, 18, 23 and 14. </climb><climb extra="" grade="100m" length="20" name="Terrorful" number="" stars="" id="106" fa="P.Bigg, S.Parsons, R.Staszewski, summer 80/81.">A sustained hand crack corner system. Pitches of 17, 20, 14; 100m. </climb><text class="text" new="false" id="107">To access Rondeau, King of Kings and Social Lepers, as well as JWAT and climbs on The Last of The Independents: Normal approach to Barbi D, then continue scrambling around through pretty easy terrain and down a short chimney. Then, staying high when possible, continue around and up until in front of a couple 3 meter cracks below Rondeau ledge. It seems further scrambling is impossible, however it is quite safe and easy to continue around a couple metres then pull on through some short trees. Access to these routes in this manner is done in 15 minutes from Barbi D on your first visit.</text><climb extra="" grade="20" length="80m" name="Rondeau" id="108" fa="C.Larque, I.Thomson, B.Kennedy, Jan 78.">A most striking line, and a good climb to get your bearings off. This has to be the best/most obvious looking line. From a distance it appears to be a single spearing crack up the centre of a recessed column 60m high (though it is in fact a triple crack system).
1) 50m 20. Climb straight up the line to a large ledge. Take plenty of gear (especially big stuff but the whole size range will go in). Alternatively use a hanging belay; this will reduce the calf-burn from the continual stemming but isn't really in the spirit of the climb (and may make it feel like an 18).
2) 30m. Keep going up the friable rock near the top.</climb><text class="text" new="false" id="109">Tucked around the corner from Rondeau are two long, imposing lines.</text><climb extra="" grade="24" length="90m" name="The King of Kings & The Social Leppers" number="" stars="**" id="110" fa="
Gerry Narkowicz & Nick Hancock, Feb 2005.">Also known as "King of Heaven". The line on the L.
1) 40m 24. Climb the open corner direct to some good finger-locks and monster rock-overs, to a scary flaky finale.
2) 10m. Scramble up R over blocks to belay below an open corner.
3) 20m 24. Bridge widely up the twin cracks in the corner with poor protection to a scary finish.
4) 20m. Up easily. </climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="85m" name="Grim Reaper" number="" stars="" id="111" fa="A.Collins, G.Narkowicz, R.McMahon, Jan 85.">The line R of King of Heaven.
1) 20m 22. Start as for King of Heaven. After 17m, traverse R at the roof, boldly and with difficulty across two columns to a large ledge.
2) 40m 21. Climb down a meter, then traverse back L. Pull over the roof on finger locks and into an unrelenting crack. Awkward flared jams for 25m finally ease before some 'good' moves to the belay.
3) 20m 17. Move slightly L and ascend the groove on the arête, with the usual loose rock. </climb><text class="heading3" new="false" number="null." id="112">Last of the Independents Ridge</text><text class="text" new="false" id="113">This is the steep ridge-line with a few prominent pinnacles just R of Rondeau, which separates the two dominant buttresses of Robins Buttress and Frew's Flutes.</text><climb extra="" grade="18" length="" name="Blast From the Past" number="" stars="" id="114" fa="R. McMahon, H. Mohler.">The lefthand direct start to the ridge. </climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="43m" name="Jesus Was a Terrorist" number="" stars="" id="115" fa="J. Fischer, G. Phillips, 13 Feb 2009">The beaut finger to thin hands corner crack left of Ass, Grass, etc. Destined to be an Immortal. Take a double rack of friends 0-2.5 with plenty of wire placements to make up for less cams. A little bit Defender of the Faith, a little bit Holiday in Cambodia. The face holds should stay on if you're not too fat! Climb this right facing corner bridging on face holds until a thin hands crux gets you to a jug/no hands rest. One more tricky move gets you to an easier crack system and the rap station. </climb><climb extra="" grade="" length="" name="Ass, Gas, or Grass; Nobody Rides For Free" number="" stars="" id="116" fa="R. McMahon, H. Mohler, P. Cullen.">The righthand of the parallel lines up the start of the ridge.</climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="" name="Cullen-Mohler Variation" number="" stars="" id="117" fa="P. Cullen, H. Mohler.">The obvious alternative finish to the ridge. </climb><text class="text" new="false" id="118">There are a couple of routes on the west face of the ridge.</text><climb extra="" grade="17" length="15m" name="Francesca" number="" stars="" id="119" fa="R.McMahon, B.Cameron, Feb 1985.">The first line along from the ridge is pretty fused. Start at the next on along, jamming your heart out. </climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="Luciana" id="120" fa="M.Ling, B.Cameron, R.McMahon.">Climb the next crack right from Francesca, with jams and layaways. </climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="60m" name="Suddenly Last Summer" number="" stars="" id="121" fa="R.McMahon, G.Narkowicz, Jan 1985.">Start below the notch between the second and third pinnacle right from the low point of the ridge.
1) 25m 19. Bridge up the corner.
2) 35m 18. Layaway up the lefthand crack, until the rock craps out, finishing up the groove. Poor pro. Either climb up left to the ridge, or follow the chimney and drop down the slabs a few meters to an abseil. </climb><text class="text" new="false" id="122">The cliff is then broken by a distinct gully separating the main part of Frews Flutes from the Last of the Independents Ridge. Tucked high up, and perhaps best approached by abseil, is Solidarity Wall.</text><climb extra="" grade="19" length="45m" name="Collins' Climb" number="" stars="" id="123" fa="A.Collins, R.McMahon, G.Narkowicz, Jan 1985.">Next line left of Solidarity. Start up the easy corner, which becomes harder with layback/bridging. Finish up the face. </climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="55m" name="Solidarity" number="" stars="" id="124" fa="M.Ling, G.Narkowicz, R.McMahon, Nov 1984.">Start 10m right of the gully, just right of the cleft at half-height. Climb the chimney past some boulders, then follow the jam crack and three distinct corner systems straight up. </climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="50m" name="Zanskar" number="" stars="" id="125" fa="G.Narkowicz, M.Ling, R.McMahon, Nov 1984.">Start 6m right of Solidarity and 6m higher. A great looking line. Start up the crack on the left, with finger locks, and thin jams, continuing up the protruding edge. After the ledge, climb the precarious flake before finishing as for the last corner of Solidarity. </climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="45m" name="Gdansk" number="" stars="" id="126" fa="G.Narkowicz, M.Ling, R.McMahon, Nov 1984.">Start just right of Zanskar. Bridge up the recessed column (with a crack on the right), before moving into the chimney (crux) and following this. Jam up to shocking rock and even worse pro. </climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="52m" name="Riders on the Storm" number="" stars="" id="127" fa="G.Narkowicz, R.McMahon, Dec 1984.">Start just right of Gdansk, on the ledge. Climb the face and the hard finger crack. Again as the rock goes off so does the pro, until the off-width roof and the final crack to the summit. </climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="65m" name="Stick Chick" number="" stars="" id="128" fa="R.McMahon, G.Narkowicz, Jan 1985.">Start down lower than the previous lines and to the right.
1) 35m 17. Follow the easy crack past a ledge and the wide crack.
2) 30m 16. Follow the easy crack and groove. </climb><text class="heading3" new="false" number="null." id="129">Frew's Flutes (Main Face)</text><text class="text" new="false" id="130">A further 200m right of Robin's Buttress are the cliff's of Frews Flutes. They provide amongst the best climbs on the entire mountain - very steep, very sustained and very, very mind-blowing! They are a bit harder to find though, unless you have a personal guide.</text><climb extra="" grade="19" length="90m" name="Late for Sky" number="" stars="" id="131" fa="B. Maddison, R. McMahon, 1977.">Begins up a short offwidth left of the west facing buttress. The first pitch is predominantly bridging. The second is the crux, which is quite hard and with few positive holds. The third crux pitch is as for 35mm Dream. </climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="" name="Powerdive" number="" stars="" id="132">At the far L of the wall. Climb up until forced L onto the nose. Continue on up. </climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="75m" name="Powerdive Eliminate" number="" stars="" id="133" fa="G.Narkowicz, M.Tierney, Jan 85.">Instead of moving L on the first pitch, go straight up through the small roof. The crack thins to finger locks and bridging, with the crux up high. Good pro. </climb><climb extra="" grade="21" length="100m" name="Accursed Land" number="" stars="" id="134" fa="B.Maddison, J.Smart, Jul 80.">Start at the jam crack between 35mm Dream and Powerdive. The grade blandly camouflages the 100m desperate fight against gravity. </climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="90m" name="35mm Dream" number="" stars="" id="135" fa="B. Maddison, P. Mills, P. Morris, Jan 79.">On the far left of the main wall, climb the third crack right which should be facing west. The second pitch of face climbing solves a problem that was pending for years, completing Late For Sky begun many years previously. Access from below is hideous - dense scrub and awkward dodgey "scrambling" up blocky terrain. </climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="100m" name="Warsaw '81" number="" stars="" id="136" fa="B.Maddison, E.Lees, 1981.">Thin east facing corner R of 35mm Dream. A bit of a classic. </climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="100m" name="El Shaddai" number="" stars="" id="137" fa="Gerry Narkowicz, Alex Wilson, 29/12/2000">Thin twin crack system up prow of buttress R of 35mm Dream face, directly R of Warsaw '81. Large bush 20m up. 1) 45m 22 Thin finger locking. 2) 15m 18 Handcrack. 3) 40m 18 Twin handcracks for 30m then loose rock for 10m. </climb><climb extra="" grade="22" name="This Is The End" id="138" fa="R.McMahon, M.Ling.">The next line right of Warsaw '81. Scramble up the first 100m to the cliff proper.
1). Follow the hand crack.
2). Continue up the crack.
3). Crux bridging up the thin corner/face.
4). Scramble on up towards the summit.</climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="30m" name="Michel De Notre Dame Direct" id="139" fa="R.McMahon, G.Narkowicz, Sep 84.">A more direct start of pitches 1 and 2 of This is the End.
1). Climb up right of the corner for 5m, then traverse left into it. Jam up past the ledge, then climb the great crack-line up the face above, laybacking past a couple of roofs, and finishing at the ledge.
2). As for pitch 3 of This is the End.
3). As for pitch 4 of This is the End, or go up the easy gully. </climb><text class="text" new="false" id="140">Now a fair way to the R.</text><climb extra="" grade="21" length="120m" name="Gaebolg" number="" stars="" id="141" fa="Lockwood, I.Thomas, Mar 78.">Left of Rock-a-day Johnny Face is the ridge taken by Cuchulain and on the left side of this is a prominent, beautifully geometric pillar. Left of this pillar is another one. The climb follows the east facing corner on the left side of this pillar. Pitches one and two are as for Cuchulain. The third is the crux of desperate finger-locks which later ease to hand-jams. The fourth pitch continues up the crack until tottering shards force a retreat. Nevertheless, the climb is regarded as complete. </climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="150m" name="Stylistic" number="" stars="" id="142" fa="
K.Carrigan, S.Parsons, Apr 82.">Climbs the LH corner of the bridging problem just to the L of Cuchulain. From Gaebolg go around the column to start.
1) Start up the thin knuckle-crack, up past some holes and small roofs.
2) Continue up with caution. At the top of the crack, traverse R to join the last pitch of Cuchulain.
3) Finish as for the last pitch of Cuchulain. </climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="130m" name="Cuchulain" number="" stars="" id="143" fa="R.McMahon, K.Lockwood, I.Thomas.">(Also known as Cahoulan). Left of the "amphitheatre" is a eastward facing proud corner on the right-hand edge of the main wall. It begins halfway up the cliff, is very square and extends for about 45m. A classic climb.
1) 30m 12. Scramble up.
2) 30m 16. Keep scrambling.
3) 35m 20. Absolutely fantastic jamming up the corner to the top of the column (and a possible rap).
4) 35m 19. Step into the crack (hard) then follow the snaking crack up the easiest possible line of awkward bridging and jamming.</climb><climb extra="" grade="21" length="130m" name="Conchubar" number="" stars="" id="144" fa="R. McMahon, P. Mills, Maddison, I.Thomas, Jan 79.">Another classic crack. The next corner right of the Cuchulain corner, up the righthand edge of the corner.
1) 30m 12. As for Cuchulain.
2) 30m 16. As for Cuchulain
3) 35m 21. Ascend the corner, through various widths to the top of the column, belaying as for Cuchulain.
4) 35m 19. As for Cuchulain.</climb><climb extra="" grade="19" name="Conchubar Direct Finish" id="145" fa="S.Parsons, P.Bigg, Dec 78.">The obvious finish to the climb. </climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="45m" name="Fantini's Offwidth aka Pipeline" number="" stars="" id="146" fa="J.Fantini, 1980's.">Climb the "hideous" west-facing offwidth past a specially made tube (there used to be two, but one has fallen out or otherwise vanished). Starts as a hand and then fist crack, but quickly gets into the swing of things. </climb><text class="heading3" new="false" id="147">Rock-A-Day Johnny Face</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="laendler face.jpg" width="800" id="148"/><text class="text" new="false" id="149">To the R of Conchubar is a great looking amphitheatre high up the main wall with a series of spearing cracks (and some fused and less than vertical toward the bottom). Descent from these routes is best by walking down the first suitable gully in the Heathcliff direction (about 300m from where you top out) - this is very easy and much quicker than the standard descent gully. You should come down directly in front of the main cliff (Apprentice Buttress) of The Rocks.</text><climb extra="" grade="21" length="170m" name="Laendler" number="1." stars="**" id="150" fa="R.Thomson, B.Kennedy, Jan 78.">Thomson's great route up the Rock-A-Day Johnny Face. Start directly below two small triangular roofs, below the LH end of the face.
1) 20m 10. Scramble up till 10m below the roofs (or climb short crack on buttress with big bush on R).
2) 45m 19. Climb the crack, past the roofs.
3) 25m 21. Continue straight up the finger crack above, with tenuous finger-locks. At the top of the finger crack, find the easiest way rightwards. Belay on a large ledge
4) 30m 19. Climb the left facing corner about 3 crack-lines to the right of the previous pitch.
5) 20m 18. As for the last pitch of RADJ. </climb>
<climb extra="" grade="19" length="170m" name="Knockin' on Heaven's Door" number="2." stars="" id="151" fa="Dean Rollins, Jake Bresnehan (alt.), 18-11-2008.">The baby Steck-Salathé of Tasmania, aka "The Bresnehan-Rollins". This cute little excursion heads straight up the guts of the Rock-A-Day Johnny Face, linking a series of prominent features. Take some big cams and put on your shuffling shoes. Start about 30m R of Laendler at a NW-facing crack splitting the front of a column.
1) 30m 17. Up the crack (hands then offwidth then squeeze chimney) to ledge. Up wide crack above with chockstones to ledge on L (with big leaning block).
1a) 8m 16. Downclimb L to ledge below the detached pillar. Use fixed wire to protect the second.
2) 32m 17. Chimney, wriggle and squeeze up behind the tower to its summit. Pull onto wall on R (huh?) and up to belay ledge.
3) 22m 16. Up the obvious gash above. Belay off to the L on bushy ledge below wide crack.
4) 28m 19. Up handcrack to bottomless offwidth. Hop into this then cruise on up to the same belay as Laendler/RADJ.
5) 25m 18. As for Laendler. Up recessed L-facing corner on R to niche, move L and up to ledge, then up short crack on L to block belay.
6) 25m. Scramble to the top. </climb>
<climb extra="" grade="24" length="170m" name="Lay Lady Lay" number="3." stars="" id="152" fa="Garry Phillips, Jake Bresnehan (team ascent), 26-11-2009.">Blast up the middle of the Laendler Face. Sure to keep you smiling for a day or two. Take a biggish range of gear from tips to the #6 camolot. Doubles up to #4 camalot, maybe some triples of tips to #1 could also calm your nerves. Start 30m R of Laendler at a prominent NW-facing crack splitting the front of a column (as for Knockin’ on Heaven’s Door).
1) 25m 17. Up the crack (hands then offwidth then squeeze chimney) to ledge.
2) 25m 24. "The Fire Cracker" - On right side of ledge up past a flared hand jam start heading towards the roof, climbing on the right side of the fin. Traverse left under roof and finish on a ledge a few meters up and left.
3) 20m 16. Step back right and climb the line above, eventually break out left on face holds to access the ledge and the start of "the squeeze".
4) 10m 17. "The squeeze" - take some big gear!
5) 25m 19. Straight up twin cracks via some tricky layway moves. Belay on high ledge or take a few extra mid sized cams and link pitch 5 and 6.
6)12m 23. More tricky moves eventually give way to hand jams. Provides an exciting end to this climb.
7) 10m 10. Head up the ridge until you can sneak around left to the start of pitch 8.
8) 25m 18. As for Rock-A-Day Johnny. Up recessed L-facing corner on R to niche, move L and up to ledge, then up short crack on L to block belay.
9) 25m. Scramble to the top.
Descent is best by walking down the first suitable gully in the Heathcliff direction (about 300m from the top of the route) - this is very easy and much quicker than the standard descent gully. You should come down directly in front of the main buttress of The Rocks. </climb>
<climb extra="" grade="18" length="180m" name="Rock-A-Day Johnny" number="4." stars="" id="153" fa="R.McMahon, R.Frew, Jan 74.">Ascends the ridge on the right of the cliff (ie. the skyline as seen from the car park); a great adventure and considered somewhat of a classic, though why is anyone's guess; huge and varied, with an atmospheric middle section and a fine crux last pitch bridging and jamming up twin cracks. Apart from the last pitch and a short grade 17 section on the second pitch, the climb is fairly 'cruisy'. The first route on the Flutes. </climb><text class="heading2" new="false" id="154">Moustache Tower</text><text class="text" new="false" id="155">The tower a few hundred metres R of Frew's Flutes. This is the square-topped pinnacle visible from the carpark, just past the Rock-A-Day Johnny ridgeline.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="moustache-lines-new1000.jpg" width="500" id="156"/><climb extra="" grade="19" length="75m" name="Haggis" number="1." stars="" id="157">Originally graded 17.</climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="75m" name="Ancient Empty Street" number="2." stars="" id="158" fa="Jake Bresnehan, Dean Rollins (alt.), 19-11-2008.">A companion line to Haggis. Another proud line up this modest tower. Start in the cave chimney at the front of the tower.
1) 30m 16. Chimney up until possible to pull onto main wall. Move R past spike and up to belay below R of two cracks.
2) 25m 18. A tricky start guards the textbook hand crack.
3) 20m 19. As for Haggis. Good climbing up the deceptive R-leaning crack to the top.
Descend off to the R: squeeze through gap to mossy ledge. Abseil from ledge to big spike slightly uphill (30m), then from spike to gully floor (25m).</climb><text class="heading2" new="false" id="159">Heathcliff</text><text class="text" new="false" id="160">Heathcliff is the large irregular cliff about 15 minutes further west across the scree from Frews Flutes. There are 19 routes described in the 2008 McMahon & Narkowicz guide.</text>
</guide>
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