<guide version="1">
<header access="Located ~500m south of Mt.Parsons summit, just before the swim on the Sealevel Traverse. It can be reached by following the Skyline Traverse to the saddle between Mt. Parsons and Mt. Dove and then heading down the gully to the foot of the cliff (over an hour). Alternatively if the swell is gentle it doesn't take much longer to follow the Sealevel Traverse, which is more pleasant." acknowledgement="" guide.action="submit" guide.id="0" guide.page="0" guide.type="header" history="" intro="A remote and dangerous cliff, it is a huge, compact, east facing wall of water worn grey granite up to 200m in height, about halfway along the Sealevel Traverse. There are few routes on it due to inaccessibility, lack of obvious lines and poor protection.The climbing is mostly poorly protected slab climbing, although Arocknaphobia is a well protected classic." name="Flowstone Wall" new="false" rock="Slabby pink and grey granite up to 300m, mostly pretty run-out." sun="Morning sun" walk="1-1.5 hours" id="1"/><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="coles bay flowstone.jpg" width="" id="2"/><climb extra="" grade="15" length="50m" name="Dance Of The Sugar Plum Fairy (Direct Start)" number="1." stars="" id="3" fa="Garn Cooper, Tim Chappell, A.Ross, L.Bottomley, Sep 91">Start at the swim on the Sealevel Traverse. 1. 50m Go up the slab, no runners. 2. Continue as for original route. </climb><climb extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="1" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="315m" name="Dance of the Sugar Plum Fairy" number="2." stars="" id="4" fa="P.Cullen, B.Kennedy, Jan 77.">Dick Hain Memorial Route. This climb takes the huge arête on the left hand edge of Flowstone Wall. It starts 30m before the swim on the Sealevel Traverse, beneath a leftwards rising traverse under roofs.
1. 40m Climb short wall of 7m then layback up corner to roof. Traverse left then up overlap to nut belay.
2. 40m Traverse easily left on slab until scrubby corner is reached.
3. 45m Straight up corner past overhangs on top to belay in large chimney on slab.
4. 50m Straight up chimney to bush belay.
5. 45m Continue up slab to bush belay.
6. 50m Up slab.
7. 45m Up slab. </climb><climb extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="3" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="190m" name="Undyturd" number="3." stars="" id="5" fa="K.Lindorff, K.Roseberry, Jan 77.">The name tells. Approximately 50m right of Dance of the Sugar Plum Fairy at a small headwall. 1. 40m Up the headwall then up tending left to small ledge. 2. 40m Up tending slightly right to horizontal bushy break. Belay on left hand end of this. 3. 45m Step up left then up the slab above passing bush on left to belay in groove below steepening. Move belay 7m left to first line encountered. 4. 65m Up the chimney and groove above to make an awkward step left and traverse to line just right of bushy gully. Up this to bush belay. Traverse off right then up. </climb><climb extra="" grade="22" guide.action="submit" guide.id="5" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="160m" name="Arocknaphobia" number="4." stars="***" id="6" fa="Sam Edwards, Rolan Eberhard, alt. Jan 1996.">One of the best routes at Coles Bay. Good protection, excellent climbing and excellent rock should make this route popular. Although graded 22, the climb may be better described as 19 M1. The hard moves at the overlap can be aided on bolts to give a fun outing to the 19 leader. The first two pitches follow the huge right trending arc overlap on the left of flowstone wall. This obvious feature can be seen from the top of Mt. Parsons on the walk in. Start at the base of the arc on the left side. It's best to abseil in from above - walk to the top of the first peak of Mt. Dove (as viewed from Sleepy Bay). This is directly above the climb and the next hill up from the gully leading down to the wall. Walk down easy angled slabs to the rap station at the top of pitch 4. Once at the base of the last abseil, scramble left to the start of the climb (don't walk down the gully unless feeling immortal). It's possible to access the climb via the Sealevel Traverse, but this is not the best way to go. Rack: 8 quickdraws, around 7 friends between 1 and 4, double ropes for abseiling. All belays except the first are bolted.
1. 25m 22 (Gear and 2 bolts) Follow the short overlap until it ends. Climb over it just left of the bolt and up to belay at the base of the main overlap.
2. 25m 19 (4 bolts and gear) A great pitch. Undercling and jam the overlap until a bolted belay is reached where an obvious dyke crosses it.
3. 45m 16 (6 bolts) Follow the dyke through the overlap, then up easily to belay below a short steep wall.
4. 20m 19 (3 bolts) Follow the juggy intrusion up the wall, then easily to a large ledge. This is where you rapped from when accessing the route.
5. 17 (6 bolts) An excellent feature up the final headwall. </climb><climb extra="" grade="21" length="225m" name="High Anxiety" number="5." stars="" id="7" fa="Adrian Herrington, B.Kennedy, May 83. (One piece of aid on pitch 3, freed on second ascent).">Again the name tells. A strong contender for the waddiest climb on the peninsula. Could be significantly easier with sticky boots, however these can't eliminate the 20m runout. Down ramp left of Crystal Voyager. 1. 45m Up obvious wall slab moving left to right trending corner, up slab following edge of overlap (thin unprotected) until mantle over overlap is possible (waddy). Belay at crack. 2. 40m Up right along overlap (~3m) then move left up on to slab. Up slab (run out) to hold at about 20m (crux just before hold). Very thin. 3. 50m Up ramp, and overlap. Move left then up line of holds through right hand end of major arch. Straight up to belay. 4. 50m Straight up slab to belay. 5. 40m Straight up slab to finish. </climb><climb extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="6" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="150m" name="Free Ride" number="6." stars="" id="8" fa="P Cullen, Adrian Herington, Dec 82.">Pleasant. Involves climbing the prominent 5m corner near the base of the cliff about 30m left of Crystal Voyager. 1. 45m Climb to bottom of corner, climb it and belay on top. 2. 40m Straight up wall and slab above trending slightly right to belay. 3. 65m Straight on to top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="7" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="100m" name="Spasm In The Outback" number="7." stars="" id="9" fa="G.Cooper, D.Humphries, Feb 87.">Created accidentally as an attempt to climb Crystal Voyager, it is possibly just a more direct version of this route. Climbs on the prominent brown streak just near Crystal Voyager. Sparse protection. Start below brown streak. 1. 50m Climb to tree at base of streak. Up 1m right of streak, following line of least resistance to poor belay in hollow scoop ~5m below a bolt. 2. 50m On via bolt to top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="8" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="160m" name="Crystal Voyager" number="8." stars="" id="10" fa="Adrian Herington, B.Kennedy, Dec 82.">The classic of the cliff if you can navigate successfully. Directly up RHS of water streak nearest to prominent brown streak on lower part of wall, to RHS of major vertical flake system. Take care with the old bolts.
1. 40m Straight up RHS of water streak to belay at small cluster of flakes, half hanging.
2. 40m Up trending left to a bolt at 15m. From here straight up (sustained) to next bolt at 23m from the last, climbing eases a bit after about 15m, belay in crack 3m up and right of second bolt. Hanging belay.
3. 50m Straight up slab, belay where possible.
4. 30m On to top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="9" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="135m" name="Prenatal Therapy" number="9." stars="" id="11" fa="Adrian Herington, Evan Peacock, Jun 1982.">It is two water streaks right of Crystal Voyager and below the right hand end of a bracket-shaped - "{" - flake. 1. 40m Straight up water streak to belay in horizontal break. 2. 45m Continue up, moving left when the slab steepens, belay where possible. 3. 50m Straight up to belay in a corner. 4. Easily onwards. </climb><climb extra="" grade="14" guide.action="submit" guide.id="10" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="50m" name="Roll Your Own" number="10." stars="" id="12" fa="Evan Peacock, Garn Cooper, May 83.">At the far right hand end of the wall at the easiest place to get onto it as you go right from Prenatal Therapy. About 5 or 6 water streaks to the right of Prenatal Therapy past a very steep section. Climb the water streak. </climb><text class="heading3" new="false" id="13">Flowstone South Face</text><text class="text" new="false" id="14">To the left (South) of all the other climbs on Flowstone Wall and above the swim on the Sea Level Traverse is a steeper wall. The following climbs are approached by abseil from the south side of the big block above the top pitch of Arocknophobia, but could probably be more easily approached via that climb's bolted abseil descent and then traversing below Dance of the Sugar Plum Fairy.</text><climb extra="" grade="20" length="270m" name="Ocean of Wisdom" number="" stars="***" id="15" fa="Nick Hancock & John Fischer (alt) Sep 2008.">1. 30m 20. Climb a left facing flake then step left and climb the beautiful dyke past 6 bolts to a DBB.
2. 60m 16. Continue up the dyke with spaced protection to a flake belay.
3. 60m 12. Climb the corner and move right to a spike belay.
4. 60m 14. Climb the slab with minimal gear past a 5 Friend to a ledge.
5. 60m 10. Climb the slab. </climb><climb extra="" grade="23" length="270m" name="Permanent Residency" number="" stars="**" id="16" fa="Nick Hancock & John Fischer (alt) Sep 2008.">1. 40m 17. Climb the crack leading to the big roof and belay at a foothold 5 metres below.
2. 50m 23. Tackle the daunting wide roof crack on jams and a crazy kneebar, to belay in the trench above.
3. 60m 12.
Climb up the corner and continue as for Ocean of Wisdom pitches 4 & 5.</climb><text class="heading3" new="false" id="17">Flowstone Boulder</text><text class="text" new="false" id="18">These climbs are on the huge boulder above and to the left of the top or Arocknophobia and above the finishes of Ocean of Wisdom, Permanent Residency and Sugar Plum Fairy.</text><climb extra="" grade="23" length="20m" name="Worth Killing a Friend For" number="" stars="*" id="19" fa="John Fischer Sep 2008.">Climb the very thin crack in a shallow left facing corner to move left and climb the dyke on the left side of the block via 2 bolts. </climb><climb extra="" grade="25" length="20m" name="Atonement" number="" stars="***" id="20" fa="Nick Hancock Jan 2009.">Climb the stunning flake via 6 bolts to a thread and 3.5 Friend belay. </climb>
</guide>
|