<DIV class="error"><SPAN class="error">Error formatting macro: guide: java.lang.RuntimeException: Error while trying to display Guide! java.lang.NullPointerException null</SPAN> <P><?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><BR></BR>
<guide pagesize="500"><header<BR></BR>
access="Fortescue Bay is about a one and a half hour drive from Hobart. From the city, head to Sorell and take the Tasman Highway towards Port Arthur. The turn-off for Fortescue Bay is on the left, about 3km past Taranna and 4km before Port Arthur. From here there's about 12km of unsealed Forestry road to Fortescue Bay. All up, about 100km from the city centre. As with most roads in Tasmania, be careful of wildlife from dusk to dawn, as they seem to enjoy jumping into the middle of the road at unsuitable times. All of these spires can be done in a day from Hobart. Try and choose a day when the swell forecast is low - information is available by checking the Bureau of Meteorology's website at: <A href="http://www.bom.gov.au/weather/tas" linktype="raw" mce_href="http://www.bom.gov.au/weather/tas" originalalias="http://www.bom.gov.au/weather/tas" rel="nofollow" wikidestination="http://www.bom.gov.au/weather/tas">http://www.bom.gov.au/weather/tas</A>"<BR></BR>
acknowledgement="Original guide by Roger Parkyn, published in Craglets. The Safe House is by Evan Peacock, Fortescue Bay Cliff by Pete Steane. Thanks to Dean Rollins, Peter McHugh and Mendelt Tillema for additional information."<BR></BR>
history=""<BR></BR>
intro="While there are many cliffs around Fortescue Bay, the prime attraction in the area is a triptych of dolerite spires; the Moai, the Candlestick, and the Totem Pole. Each is totally different from the other two, but they all possess an adventure-climbing flavour that adds to the appeal. These summits have retained an exclusiveness which is rare given the current popularity of rock-climbing. A trip to any one of them is not just another day at the crags - but it is a day you will surely remember for a long time to come."<BR></BR>
name="Fortescue Bay" new="false"<BR></BR>
rock="Coastal dolerite columns and pinnacles"<BR></BR>
sun="Mixed sun and shade" walk="Up to 1.5 hours"/><image<BR></BR>
new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."<BR></BR>
src="fortescueMap.png" width=""/><text class="heading2"<BR></BR>
new="false">Cape Hauy</text><text class="text"<BR></BR>
new="false">There are a number of interesting rock formations in the Cape Hauy area: The Candlestick, The Totem Pole, The Monument and assorted cliffs up to 100m high. It is a very spectacular spot and worthwhile even for just a look.</text><text<BR></BR>
class="text"<BR></BR>
new="false">The walking track to Cape Hauy starts from beside the boat ramp in the Fortescue Bay Campground, at the right-hand end of the beach as you drive in. If you are driving in the night before (ready for an alpine start the following morning), your best bet may be to crash in the campground's "day use only" area.</text><text<BR></BR>
class="text"<BR></BR>
new="false">The walk takes about an hour and a half. The track is well defined and in pretty good condition for the most part, though occasionally there are fallen trees across the track. To get to the abseil point for the Stick and the Tote, continue past the warning sign at the end of the formed track and follow a pad downhill. It is another 100m or so to the end of Cape Hauy. Follow a rough, slightly overgrown, and sporadically cairned track in the direction of Fortescue Bay along to a profile view of both sea stacks, at a level lower than the Tote's summit. From here you can traverse back across to a ledge within spitting distance of the Tote. Access to both stacks is by abseiling from a DBB here (about 60m).</text><text<BR></BR>
class="heading3" new="false"<BR></BR>
number="null.">The Totem Pole</text><text class="text"<BR></BR>
new="false">The Totem Pole is one of the most spectacular pieces of rock on the planet. It is a free-standing dolerite pillar spearing straight out of the water in a gloomy chasm infested with sharks and subject to volatile swell patterns. It is over sixty metres tall, but only about four metres wide at the base. It sways in the wind and shudders with the crash of every wave. The "Tote" is too slender to even be described as a phallic symbol, unless of course you've got a very skinny dick!</text><text<BR></BR>
class="text"<BR></BR>
new="false">The prospect this piece of rock presents the climber is uncompromising and chilling. Equip yourself not only with the necessary gear but also a bottle of bravery pills. The challenge is psychological as much as technical.</text><text<BR></BR>
class="text"<BR></BR>
new="false">See the Cape Hauy overview for details to get the the rap point. Fix a 60m rope to the DBB here and rap into the chasm. What you do next will depend on how big the swell is at the time...</text><text<BR></BR>
class="text"<BR></BR>
new="false">In good conditions, it is possible to stand comfortably on the flat rock at the base of the Ewbank Route. There is a single carrot bolt at the bottom of route which can be used by the belayer for all routes on the Tote if that is the case. Even in moderate swell conditions, however it is subject to wave wash. (RP: I found that wearing bare feet and a waterproof jacket helped).</text><text<BR></BR>
class="text"<BR></BR>
new="false">In more 'elevated' seas, a hanging belay is often employed at the start of the Deep Play Variant First Pitch, just left of the arete closest to the mainland. There is a spacious ledge about 4m off the water opposite the Fortescue Bay facing side that may be used as a base camp for the entertaining operation of penduluming over to the Tote.</text><text<BR></BR>
class="text"<BR></BR>
new="false">The easiest 'descent' option is to trail your abseil rope to to the top and use it to Tyrolean traverse back to the mainland. If you don't know what a Tyrolean traverse is, or how to set one up, then this is probably not the best place to learn how.</text><image<BR></BR>
new="false" noPrint="false" number="null." src="totempole.png"<BR></BR>
width="">null</image><climb extra="" grade="27" length="65m"<BR></BR>
name="The Ewbank Route (free version aka 'The Freed Route')"<BR></BR>
new="false" number=""<BR></BR>
stars="">All but ignored following the ascent of The Free Route, the original aid route to the top of the Totem Pole was not as impossible to free as many had suspected. It now provides quality free climbing of a more committing nature than The Free Route.<BR></BR>
Gear required: plenty of quickdraws, cams to #1 Camalot, with doubles from #0.5 Camalot down, 1 set of wires, 1 set of RPs. Double ropes recommended.<BR></BR>
1) 20m 25. Start as for The Free Route and follow it to the SW (i.e. right) arête. Instead of continuing R, climb the arête, face and hollow flake to the triangular alcove.<BR></BR>
2) 15m 26. From the alcove, climb up to the roof. Step L around the arête via spike to a thin flake (good medium wires). Climb the face and arête, trending R at the horizontal to the semi-hanging DBB. Consider belaying the next pitch from below the DBB to avoid a potential factor 2 fall.<BR></BR>
3) 25m 27. Up the L arête and crack/seam, past a bolt, to a stance. Continue up crack past rattling spikes to the upper alcove. Up thin crack, then R and up to finish at ledge (DBB).<BR></BR>
4) 5m 17. Climb the prominent crack in the summit block. A tricky start gives way to cruisy crack climbing (this 'pitch' was freed on the first ascent).<BR></BR>
John Ewbank, Allan Keller, March 1968. FFA: Doug McConnell, Dean Rollins, Jan 2009.</climb></P>
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<P><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="25" length="65m" name="The Free Route"<BR></BR>
new="false" number=""<BR></BR>
stars="***">An improbable and awesome route. One of the most iconic and recognisable rock climbs in the country, this route spirals its way up the Tote, climbing on all four faces. Start on the rock platform at the base of the Original Route if the swell is low, otherwise set up a hanging belay at the start of Deep Play. Many ascents these days start with the Deep Play variant first pitch instead of the one described here.<BR></BR>
1) 25m 25. Up the balancey arete on the L until possible to traverse R (across the Original Route) to the R arete (bolts). Keep moving R around the pillar (bolt) and then head up short corner (2 fixed pins, and/or cams) to the ledge.<BR></BR>
2) 40m 24. This is a really superb pitch; long, sustained, interesting and well-equipped. Pure class. There are 10 FHs, with some natural gear required in the last 10m (wires, cams).<BR></BR>
Gear: a few bolt brackets, cams from small to #2 Camalot, and plenty of quickdraws.<BR></BR>
Steve Monks, Simon Mentz (alt.), Jane Wilkinson, Simon Carter, March 1995.</climb></P>
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<P><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="A?" length="65m" name="Gallegos Route"<BR></BR>
new="false" number=""<BR></BR>
stars="">No one seems to know anything much about this, except that it appeared in a Boreal catalogue. From fixed gear left behind, it appears that the first pitch goes out left from the start of the Original Route and up to the big ledge on the far side (this pitch has been freed and is now known as Deep Play). The second pitch then cuts back R across the Tote, following a thin diagonal hairline crack with 2 old pitons... to perhaps join the Original Route at belay two? It may finish as for that route, or it could continue up independently... no sé! Gallegos brothers (Spanish aid hard-men) 1993.</climb><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="24" length="20m" name="Deep Play" new="false"<BR></BR>
number="***"<BR></BR>
stars="">A popular alternative to the first pitch of the Free Route, as it lessens then the shenanigans required to get your abseil/Tyrolean rope to the summit. This pitch was originally aid-climbed as the first pitch to the Gallegos Route. It has now been retro-bolted (with 5x <SPAN class="search-result-summary">fixed <SPAN class="search-highlight"></SPAN></SPAN> hangers) and freed to create a more direct approach to the ledge on the far side of the Tote. Take a set of wires, and cams to red alien. Gallegos brothers (Spanish aid hard-men) 1993. FFA: Steve Monks, Enga Lokey, Feb 1999.</climb><text<BR></BR>
class="heading3" new="false"<BR></BR>
number="null.">The Candlestick</text><text<BR></BR>
class="text">The Candlestick stands behind the Tote. The sea heaving and surging between them caresses the rock walls like a hot lover. The water isn't that hot though, pretty freezing really, but hey, you didn't walk all this way for some kind of disco-party. You lugged all that climbing junk down to this chasm of doom for something far more special - a climbing experience you can really launch yourself into ... bodily.</text><text<BR></BR>
class="text" new="false"<BR></BR>
number="null.">The crux of the Candlestick is the swim. About 10m of shark-infested, usually surging, water lies between the base of the Tote and the Stick. Send someone else into the water but first give them an end of a rope so they can rig up a Tyrolean. This will minimise the overall wetness of the party. I hesitate to state what should be bloody obvious but someone from Queensland wrote in to say that people should be advised not to swim around the Cape Pillar side to the Tote. Despite the sharp angle the 60m obelisk would put on their rope they were hoping that it would slide smoothly up the Tote as they climbed the Candlestick (until they would be high enough to simply flick it over). They appear to have been surprised when their ropes got caught! </text><text<BR></BR>
class="text">The Stick would have space for hundreds of routes but I recommend the most obvious and easy looking. To my mind, climbing the Candlestick isn't about crag climbing in the conventional sense; it's about being "out there", far away from home and making an ascent of a lonely summit. In such a situation the idea of choosing a hard variation seems a bit contrived. If the idea captures your inspiration though, there's a lot of rock to roam on.</text><text<BR></BR>
class="text" new="false"<BR></BR>
number="null.">There are now new double belay bolts that make the ascent a bit easier and safer:<BR></BR>
1) at the belay stance on the far side of the chasm swim <BR></BR>
2) to rig the 40m Tyroleon (requires two ropes) just below the last (4th) pitch and <BR></BR>
3) on the north end of the actual summit of the Candlestick (it can be used to get down to the Tyroleon anchors).</text><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="16" length="110m" name="Normal Route"<BR></BR>
new="false" number=""<BR></BR>
stars="*">Get established on the ledge just above water level which is opposite the Tote. Take the chimney/gully above this ledge and follow the easiest looking way to the summit. It's about Grade 16 and pretty solid but a helmet would be prudent nonetheless. If you keep attached to the rope you abseiled off the mainland with, it is possible to Tyrolean from a reasonable height on the Stick on your way down.</climb></P>
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<P> <text<BR></BR>
class="heading3"<BR></BR>
new="false">The Monument (aka The Monolith)</text><text<BR></BR>
class="text"<BR></BR>
new="false">This large sea-stack is just off to the south of Cape Hauy (clearly visible from the track) was first climbed in 1970 by a Climbers' Club of Tasmania group. This sea-stack is much less popular than the others in the area, perhaps due to the fact that it is not as dramatic looking and is only about 50m high. However, since it is about 100m off shore, it is not any less of an mission to reach the top. Indeed, the tale of the first ascent is yet another grand CCT epic spread over a few attempts.</text><text<BR></BR>
class="text"<BR></BR>
new="false">Prior to the successful attempt, Mendelt Tillema had already swam out to the stack, though his companion (Peter McHugh), who planned to follow in a rubber dingy was not able to make it out to the stack due to the swell. Mendelt swam back to shore and the attempt was aborted. The next time, Mendelt again swam (trailing a rope) to the prominent ledge on the NE corner of the stack. Mike Emery and Ray Lassman tied in the middle of the rope and followed, while Col Hocking held the other end and waited on the mainland should things get messy. McHugh contributed to proceedings by tumbling down the cliff as the start of the day, leaving blood stained rocks as markers for the path to the sea.</text><text<BR></BR>
class="text"<BR></BR>
new="false">From the ledge, the team took the prominent chimney in the corner. This was an 80ft (or 25m) pitch at a grade of "VDiff" (now considered about grade 12-ish), and then a scramble to the top. Upon erecting a cairn they donated some green tights for a flag, though it appears these have long since blown away.</text><text<BR></BR>
class="text"<BR></BR>
new="false">Most (all?) subsequent ascents have utilised a vessel of some sort; either a kayak, or a motor boat (including the second ascent, where they hitched a ride out to the stack on a fishing boat, and flagged down another boat to get a lift back a few hours later!). These days, the sea-stack is perhaps best approached by a kayak launched from Fortescue Bay on a calm day; unless you like swimming, that is.</text><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="12" length="40m" name="The CCT Route"<BR></BR>
new="false" number=""<BR></BR>
stars="">The route starts from a prominent ledge on the NE corner of the stack and climbs via a prominent chimney in the corner until the angle relents enough to scramble to the summit. Descend by abseil. Mendelt Tillema, Mike Emery, Ray Lassman and Col Hocking. Easter 1970. <BR></BR>
</climb><text<BR></BR>
class="text"<BR></BR>
new="false"><BR></BR>
The following route is on the cliffs overlooking The Momument (I think...).</text><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="13" length="35m" name="Elementary Penguin"<BR></BR>
new="false" number=""<BR></BR>
stars="">On cliffs opposite obvious doline/cenote/gulch. Descend gully on seaward side to platform at base of cliffs. Climb begins above a loose detached block on platform.<BR></BR>
1) 25m. Up chimney for 6m to twin cracks. Down through the overhanging LH crack, then traverse to RH one when feasible. Continue to top of this and belay.<BR></BR>
2) 10m. Move L and climb obvious corner<BR></BR>
Stefan Karpiniec, Phil Robinson, Oct 74.</climb></P>
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<P> <text<BR></BR>
class="heading3" new="false">Cape Hauy Cliffs</text><text<BR></BR>
class="text"<BR></BR>
new="false">The following route climbs the steep cliffs overlooking the Candlestick and the Totem Pole, and is accessed by rapping down the route. To get there, follow the Cape Hauy track from Fortescue Bay as for the Totem Pole. At the "Track Ends 50 metres" sign, do not turn off left (as for the Tote), rather go to the end of the track to the rock edge/lookout on the R. Rap bolts are located on the L (looking out), just over the edge. TODO: GPS co-ords.</text><text<BR></BR>
class="text"<BR></BR>
new="false">The raps are:<BR></BR>
(a) 25m from top (DBB) to a ledge (2 rings + 1 FH), (b) 30m to 2 rings, (c) 30m to 2 FH, then (d) 15m to the bottom ledge, which is huge.<BR></BR>
NOTE: rap (b) does NOT go directly below the bolts, but instead goes off the other side of the ledge (towards Cape Pillar).</text><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="25" length="100m" name="Candle in the Wind"<BR></BR>
new="false" number=""<BR></BR>
stars="">Another great alternative if you go to do the Free Route on the Totem Pole and the seas are too big. The bottom ledge for this route is 15 metres off sea level, so the route will be a goer in 'most' seas. Gear required: 60m climbing rope, 2 sets of wires, double set cams to #3 Camalot, hexes, 3 bolt plates, lots of draws.<BR></BR>
1) 15m 24. Off the deck past 3 carrots to 2 fixed hangers. Natural gear also required.<BR></BR>
2) 30m 25. Straight up crack to belay stance with DBB.<BR></BR>
3) 30m 22/23 Continue up crack to ledge with DBB.<BR></BR>
4) 25m 18. Interesting face & crack climbing to the ledge, then up corner to top (it is possible to finish more easily on the R). Steve Monks, Adrian Laing, May 2006.</climb><text<BR></BR>
class="text"<BR></BR>
new="false">The following route is on the mainland cliffs facing the Totem Pole. Fix a 60m rope to DBB as for the Totem Pole access, but rap diagonally towards Cape Pillar (SE), heading down a scungy corner to a ledge with a DBB belay. Continue rapping down the wall below, L of knife blade arête, to arrive at a small ledge about 5m above the ocean with another DBB.</text><climb<BR></BR>
extra="B" grade="24" length="55m" name="The Swell Repeller"<BR></BR>
new="false" number=""<BR></BR>
stars="*">Two pitches of stunning arêtes, both of which are fully bolted. A great bad weather option when the Tote is being hammered by the swell.<BR></BR>
1) 35m 24. Climb sustained arête past 10 FHs that get fairly spaced and oddly placed as you get higher. Belay on vegetated ledge at DBB.<BR></BR>
2) 20m 20. Up thin crack splitting the exposed arête above to small ledge. Sling rock tooth with a large sling and climb easily to top. Belay off the DBB. Adam Demmert, Neil Monteith, 3 Jan 2006.</climb><BR></BR>
<text<BR></BR>
class="heading3" new="false"<BR></BR>
number="null.">The Safe House</text><text class="text"<BR></BR>
new="false"<BR></BR>
number="null.">Situated in a small inlet about 0.5 km from the end of Cape Hauy, are some superb dolerite sea crags discovered in March 1989 after a huge swell aborted a Candlestick attempt. To get there leave the Cape Hauy track (as marked on the map) and walk along the ridge line to the coast (downhill from the ridge the scrub is horrendous!). As you get to the coast you have to bash through some pretty thick stuff for maybe 100m 'til you arrive at the crag. (Editor's note: a boat sounds like a good alternative. Has anyone got one?). Routes are from L to R. The hard looking arête makes a good point of reference.</text><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="21" length="12m" name="Plastic Machete"<BR></BR>
new="false" number=""<BR></BR>
stars="">The face/seam left of the arête, bombproof wire protection and very nice climbing. Evan Peacock, Mar/89.</climb><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="18" length="12m" name="Riff Raff and Rug Rats"<BR></BR>
new="false" number=""<BR></BR>
stars="">R and around the arête is a nice looking corner. Evan Peacock, Mar/89.</climb><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="20" length="12m"<BR></BR>
name="Flock of Dolphins">The next route to the right, excellent face/finger crack climbing. Evan Peacock, Mar/89.</climb><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="19" length="12m"<BR></BR>
name="Seal of Approval">Next line to the right. Steve Ford, Mar/89.</climb><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="19" length="12m"<BR></BR>
name="Morning Swim">R and around the corner from SOA is a small roof, climb this. Steve Ford, Feb/90.</climb><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="21" length="15m"<BR></BR>
name="Pissin' in the Wind">Starts in the corner immediately right of MS. Some lay-away moves bring you some bridging then the top. Evan Peacock, Feb/90.</climb><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="15" length="15m"<BR></BR>
name="Don't Drink Yellow Sea Spray">Starts in the wide crack about 5m R of PIW. Evan Peacock, Feb/90.</climb><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="15" length="15m"<BR></BR>
name="Dunkirk">A bit further R is a corner, its looks very nice and, dare I say it, is rather obvious. Its bristling with runners and an excellent route. Evan Peacock, Mar/89.</climb><text<BR></BR>
class="text">There are still quite a few routes to do here still, not to mention along the rest of the coastline. (Editor's note: there's probably quite a bit of track cutting and marking still to do as well!).</text></P>
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<P><text<BR></BR>
class="heading3" new="false"<BR></BR>
number="null.">Fortescue Bay Cliff</text><text class="text"<BR></BR>
new="false"<BR></BR>
value="A quiet, sunny heat trap, right on the sea and with a pleasant rock platform at its base. The crag is about 20 metres high, and the rock is fairly typical of Tasman Peninsula, generally okay but take care. Climbing is generally on cracks and flakes. Routes will clean up with traffic. The cliff faces north, and is a warm winter crag, particularly if the sun is shining. Approach from Fortescue Bay. Walk along the Cape Hauy track for 5 minutes until it begins to leave the coast (don't follow it inland). Drop down to the shoreline and follow it for another 15 minutes. You will come to the top of the crag - you can't miss it. Either abseil, or continue through the scrub to a tricky down climb near the far end. The cleaner routes are marked with a star.">A quiet, sunny heat trap, right on the sea and with a pleasant rock platform at its base. The crag is about 20 metres high, and the rock is fairly typical of Tasman Peninsula, generally okay but take care. Climbing is generally on cracks and flakes. Routes will clean up with traffic. The cliff faces north, and is a warm winter crag, particularly if the sun is shining. Approach from Fortescue Bay. Walk along the Cape Hauy track for 5 minutes until it begins to leave the coast (don't follow it inland). Drop down to the shoreline and follow it for another 15 minutes. You will come to the top of the crag - you can't miss it. Either abseil, or continue through the scrub to a tricky down climb near the far end. The cleaner routes are marked with a star.</text><climb<BR></BR>
extra="DWS" grade="23" length="15m" name="Wet Nurse" new="false"<BR></BR>
number=""<BR></BR>
stars="**">At the left end of the cliff climb the sharp arête, starting from the ledge on the left which is gained by abseil. Nick Hancock, Ken Palmer Mar 04. <BR></BR>
</climb><climb<BR></BR>
extra="DWS" grade="19" length="5m" name="Nurse Shark"<BR></BR>
new="false" number=""<BR></BR>
stars="">The blunt arête gained from the left. Nick Hancock, Ken Palmer Mar 04. <BR></BR>
</climb><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="18" length="12" name="Style Over Substance"<BR></BR>
new="false" number=""<BR></BR>
stars="*">Left of and above the start of Rhyme is a sloping ramp of rock with a wall above it. This route goes up a hand crack on the right of this wall and surmounts a block near the top. Roger Parkyn, Nov 2008. </climb><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="20" length="15m"<BR></BR>
name="The Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner"<BR></BR>
stars=" * ">The thin line near the left end of the main wall. Finish at the she oak on the sloping ledge. (I had a pre-placed runner to protect the start, but if you're not a cripple you could probably boulder it OK.). Pete Steane, Sep/95.</climb><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="17" length="15m" name="Kelpie"<BR></BR>
stars=" * ">The nice crack just right of The Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner. Finishes on the same sloping ledge as that climb. Doug Fife, Sep/95.</climb><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="Unnamed"<BR></BR>
stars=" * ">The crack and flake just left of Thank Christ for Bass Strait. Finish easily up the left facing corner. Doug Fife, Sep/95.</climb><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="18" length="20m"<BR></BR>
name="Thank Christ for Bass Strait">The highest line on the wall. Jamming and layaways with a wide but easy finish. Pete Steane, Jun/95.</climb><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="19" length="20m"<BR></BR>
name="Windscape">The line immediately right of Thank Christ for Bass Strait. Flared jamming to start. At the top, step left into Thank Christ for Bass Strait. Direct finish looks quite feasible. Bob McMahon, Jun/95.</climb><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="18" length="18m"<BR></BR>
name="Blythe Star">A deep crack to start (better to use the face holds) followed by a step out left to climb the neat flake (fun). Loose finish. Pete Steane, Sep/95.</climb><text<BR></BR>
class="text">A short distance right there is a small barnacle filled gutter below an easy looking corner. The gutter forms a break between the higher cliffs of the Main Wall on the left, and the smaller wall on the right.</text><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="17" length="10m" name="Sunny Gym"<BR></BR>
stars=" * ">Nice jamming up the line just right of the easy looking corner. A fun move over the bulge near the top. Crack may be wet after rain. Pete Steane, Jun/95.</climb><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Exit Route"<BR></BR>
stars=" * ">The next crack right. Corner through a roof. Pleasant.</climb></P>
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<P> <text<BR></BR>
class="heading2" new="false" number="null.">The Moai</text><text<BR></BR>
class="text"<BR></BR>
new="false">The Moai completes the trilogy. No aid, no swim, just quality routes - uncompromisingly modern in style - in a wild and scenic location. The Moai is a lone column of dolerite beside the sea, north of Fortescue Bay. Amidst the walls of rock along the coastline it stands apart, resting upon an altar formed by a rock platform, like a discontinuity in the time-space continuum. Its spiritual significance is obvious. Rock is not simply the medium for the sport, as only climbers know, the rock is sacred and the Moai is a shrine to the Rock Gods - a place of worship. (Editor's note: Moai is the name of the monoliths on Easter Island, pronounced "mow"-"eye")</text><text<BR></BR>
class="text" new="false"<BR></BR>
number="null.">To get to the Moai, walk along the beach from Fortescue Bay and onto the track to Waterfall Bay. About 1 hour 15 minutes of walking takes you to Bivouac Bay (good camp site with toilet). From Bivouac Bay, continue along the track for about 5 or 10 minutes until the crest of the spur is reached; there are two sawn stumps (approx. 40cm diameter) on the track here. Another 20m (approximately) along the track a small cairn marks the route to the abseils. Additional cairns and faded yellow (i.e. white) tape marks the route. Finally, climb around a large boulder to reach the abseil anchors (a U and a chain-link about 100m from the track). The first abseil is 15m (grade 16 if you want to climb back out). There are then two more of similar height off trees (these two can be done together as a 50m abseil and are about grade 12 if you're climbing out). Alternatively, a 60m rope fixed from the top anchors will just reach the bottom. From the bottom of the abseils it is relatively straightforward to scramble down to the rock platform. At most times, the rock platform is unthreatened by waves, but in certain heavier swell conditions waves do occasionally sweep across. Take care if the sea is rough, especially on the scramble to the platform.</text><image<BR></BR>
new="false" noPrint="false" src="moai1000.jpg"<BR></BR>
width="500"/><climb extra="" grade="22" length="35m"<BR></BR>
name="Burning Spear" new="false" number=""<BR></BR>
stars="*">1) 20m 18. Start in the short chimney (at the left-most part of the base that has easy access). Steep but juggy climbing leads to the belay ledge (rap anchors). Good natural gear.<BR></BR>
2) 15m 22. Crank up the arête. At one point the route comes quite close to Sacred Site but don't get sucked into going onto it as it will become difficult (and run-out) getting back onto the line. S.Eberhard, R.Parkyn, Oct/94.</climb><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="20" length="20m" name="Blunt Instrument"<BR></BR>
new="false" number=""<BR></BR>
stars="**">Two U's lead to a flake, then follow cracks to the top. A good alternate first pitch to Burning Spear. Roger Parkyn, Dec/94.</climb><climb<BR></BR>
extra="B" grade="24" length="35m" name="Ancient Astronaught"<BR></BR>
new="false" number=""<BR></BR>
stars="**">1) 25m 24. Crank through the overhang at the base of the NE arête. Continue up the arête and the wall to its L.<BR></BR>
2) 10m 20. Blast straight up from the belay ledge then trend R via the last U to finish on the R side of the arête. No natural gear required on either pitch. R.Parkyn, G.Phillips, Sep/94.</climb><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="18" length="35m" name="Sacred Site" new="false"<BR></BR>
number=""<BR></BR>
stars="**">1) 10m. Scramble (about grade 2) up to the ledge on the NE side of the Moai.<BR></BR>
2) 25m. Climb the corner onto the pedestal then up to the bolt. From the bolt move R 1m then up via a flake. Trend R to another bolt then straight up. Use the anchors of Ancient Astronaught to belay/rappel (a single 50m rope doubled just makes it down). Take a selection of small to mid-sized cams. R.Eberhard, R.Parkyn, Aug/94.</climb><text<BR></BR>
class="heading3" new="false">Mainland Wall</text><text<BR></BR>
class="text"<BR></BR>
new="false">On the cliff facing the Moai (i.e. part of the mainland) there are several pleasant routes. To get to them scramble down past the small cave at water level and up onto the ledges above. The first three routes all start from the same ledge (looks slopey from the Moai). There is a rap anchor above Thunderstruck.</text><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="18" length="15m"<BR></BR>
name="The Firing Line">The continuous finger crack. Sam Edwards, Oct/94.</climb><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="17" length="15m" name="The Hands of Chaos"<BR></BR>
new="false" number=""<BR></BR>
stars="">The hand crack two metres R of The Firing Line. There is a rectangular block that sticks out near the top. Sam Edwards, Oct/94.</climb><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="16" length="15m" name="Mr Whippy" new="false"<BR></BR>
number=""<BR></BR>
stars="">The twin cracks in a short chimney two metres R of The Hands of Chaos. J.Morgan, Oct/94.</climb><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="17" length="25m" name="Thunderstruck"<BR></BR>
new="false" number=""<BR></BR>
stars="">The zig-zag (thunder-bolt) crack about 20m R of Mr Whippy. A quality route with rap anchors at the top. Garry Phillips, Oct/94.</climb><text<BR></BR>
class="text"<BR></BR>
new="false">Other crack routes exist about 100m away in the direction of Cape Huay.<BR></BR>
Editor's note: Climbs were done in the Dolomieu Point area by Peacock et al in the early eighties. These are different routes. I couldn't determine the location of the earlier route with sufficient accuracy (refer to CCT circulars 1982 – issue #145).</text><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="18" length="40m" name="Garn's Horror Climb"<BR></BR>
new="false" number=""<BR></BR>
stars="">Start about 3/4 of the way L along the first cliffs encountered, below the L side of the ledge about 15m up. 1) 15m Up the crack, corner and face to the ledge. 2) 24m Traverse about 4m R along the ledge then up a hand-crack. Continue through a roof then up the next hand-crack on the R. Garn Copper, Feb/95.</climb><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="17" length="18m" name="Squeeze" new="false"<BR></BR>
number=""<BR></BR>
stars="">The wide crack about 10m R of Garn's Horror Climb passing through the R side of a roof then climb straight up the crack to the ledge. Sam Edwards, Feb/95.</climb><text<BR></BR>
class="heading3" new="false">The Golden Pillar</text><text<BR></BR>
class="text"<BR></BR>
new="false">About ten minutes walk north from the Moai is a large orange arête easily visible from the track. Locate a pair of carrot bolts above this and abseil with a fixed rope, or, if brave, abseil in three pitches, from double bolts, using a single 60 metre rope. You will need eight hangers and a dozen draws, a No 5 Rock and Friends from 0 to 3. You can leave all the cams, except the 0 and 2 on the last belay, as this pitch is all trad. The rock is not as loose as it looks from above, but you will need a helmet. There could be another pitch below.</text><climb<BR></BR>
extra="" grade="24" length="60m"<BR></BR>
name="The Golden Pillar of Fortescue" new="false" number="" stars="**">1) 25m 24. Move up a slight flake crack on the R, via the 0 Friend, and pull left onto the arête at a fixed hanger. Climb with increasing difficulty via carrots and fixed hangers to a slight runout to the belay.<BR></BR>
2) 25m 24. Continue up the arête on slightly worsening rock, where a #5 Rock eases tricky moves up to a short crack. Again there is a slight runout to the belay, but a #2 Friend helps.<BR></BR>
3) 10m 19. Climb the groove to a carrot, then step R and go up a solid hand crack to the top. Steve Monks and Steve Findlay, Feb 2003.<BR></BR>
</climb></P>
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<P> </guide></P></DIV>
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