<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide><header
access="From the Granville harbour Road travel 3 km along Climes Track to the top of a steeper section (where it gets too rough for 2WD vehicles). Walk along Climes Track down to the creek. At the creek look for a smaller track on the right which connects with another track paralleling the coast. Continue walking south on it for half an hour to a 30m high cliff set back 50 m from the coast and above a pond. Guesstimated position in AGD 66 is 341200 E; 5363200 N."
acknowledgement="by Nick Hancock" history="" intro=""
name="The Velvet Underground" new="false"
rock="Coastal granite, 20m high" sun="" walk=""/><image
new="false" noPrint="false" number="null." src="VelvetUg.jpg"
width="600">null</image><climb extra="" grade="24" length="25m"
name="Sweet Jane" new="false" number=""
stars="***">Climbs the pillar with a wide horizontal break at half height, on the left side of the cliff. Technical moves past six glued carrots. Nick Hancock. Feb, 2006.
</climb><climb
extra="" grade="26" length="25m" name="Heroin" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">1) 10m 26 Climb the very thin seam past two glued carrots to a belay on the right. 2) 15m 17 Follow the corner above trending left onto the arête to finish.Nick and Heather Hancock, Feb, 2006.
</climb><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="25m" name="Sunday Morning Direct"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Climbs the overhanging groove direct to the slab, instead of traversing in from the left. Nick Hancock Feb, 2007.
</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="25m" name="I’ll Be Your Mirror"
stars=" *** ">Thin cracks on good wires then carefully up the easy slab above. Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges Jan 2004.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="25m" name="Sunday Morning"
stars=" ** ">Follow the right trending diagonal off blocks to the flared vertical cracks. Follow these to a glued carrot and a thin move over a bulge. Climb up to a deep flared crack (4 Camalot) and another bolt on the final slab. Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges Jan 2004.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="25m" name="Venus In Furs"
stars=" * ">Climb the brutal fist crack to shrubbery. Go left to another crack then back right to a black groove through the final tier. 4, 5 & 6 friend-sized cams essential. Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges Jan 2004.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="26" length="25m" name="Waiting For The Man"
stars=" *** ">Climb a very thin crack up a prow past 4 glued carrots to another on the pocketed wall above. Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges Jan 2004.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="25m"
name="I’m Beginning to See the Light"
stars=" ** ">Climb a right trending ramp (4 & 5 Camalot) to open grooves (4 glued carrots). Sarah Hedges & Nick Hancock Jan 2004.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="15m" name="Black Angels Death Song"
stars=" * ">Near the top of the rocky gully on the right side of the crag climb a left trending crack to an easy finish. Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges Jan 2004.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Somewhere NW of Trial Harbour</text><text
new="true"/><text class="text" new="false"
number="null.">From the campsite at the north end of Trial Harbour walk north along the coast for 30 minutes. Just before going around to Goldrush wall, a long 25m high wall becomes visible high on the hill. Below this at sea level are some short, steep cracks. </text><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="10m" name="Tinsel Town" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">Climbs the L end of Goldrush Wall, on excellent holds just R of a wide crack, to finish up a groove. Nick & Heather Hancock, Ashley Mason, Jan. 2009. </climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="20m" name="Goldrush" new="false"
number=""
stars="***">Climb the immaculate dyke via three carrots to an easier finish via a crack. Nick Hancock & Ken Palmer, Jan. 2004.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="5m" name="Silver City" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">The arête down R of Goldrush, with poor protection. Ashley Mason, Nick & Heather Hancock, Feb. 2009.

</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="15m" name="Only the Lonely"
new="false" number=""
stars="***">Located on a distinct square topped pinnacle set back from the sea, 10 minutes past Goldrush Wall, on the way to Wheel Bay. Climb the slab and sharp arête past five glued carrots and a No.5 Friend to a DBB. Nick & Heather Hancock, Feb. 2009.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="15m" name="Loner’s Rock" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Climb cracks to the R, to a ledge, then the wide crack to the summit and DBB. Nick & Heather Hancock Jan. 2009.</climb><text
class="text"
new="false">Just past ‘Only The Lonely’ and down at sea level.</text><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="8m" name="Roll With It" new="false"
number=""
stars="***">The beautiful arcing crack. Barn door moves constitute the crux.
Andrew Geeves, Matthew Johnston Feb 2010
</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="20m" name="Fizzy Bubbly" new="false"
number=""
stars="***">A stunner. Balancy moves are required to move from the first crack to the flake on the face, then more balancy and strenuous moves from the flake to jugs below the overhanging crack. The crack above is difficult until you gain large holds up high and left. There is good gear (wires/offset wires and 2.0 camalot) behind the flake on the face. Take a 5.0 camalot for the top crack as it flares open inside.
Matthew Johnston, Andrew Geeves Feb 2010
</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="20m" name="No Left Turn" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">Climb short hand crack (crux), then chimney. Surprisingly good fun.
Matthew Johnston, Andrew Geeves Feb 2010
</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="7m" name="Pulpit Rock" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Sits high on the hillside above Trial Harbour and approached from the Climes Track. Bridge up and climb via two carrots to a carrot belay on top. Nick & Heather Hancock, Ashley Mason, Feb. 2009. 

</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="7m"
name="Attack of the 4ft Man Child" new="false" number=""
stars="**">The overhanging, flared and shallow hand crack.
Andrew Geeves, Anna Lynch Jan 2010
</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="8m" name="The Contortionist"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Some trickiness getting established, then desperate flared thin hands to the top.
Andrew Geeves, Anna Lynch Jan 2010
</climb><text
class="text"
new="false">The following two climbs are on the wall high on the hill. Access: Follow the rocky ridge that heads up to the right side of the wall. Once on top, aim for the top right hand end of the cliff. Easily scramble down to the base of the cliff. </text><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="15m" name="Jetstream" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">On the far left hand end of the cliff is a featured dike. Climb the vegetated chimney below it or scramble around to the pedestal and start here. Fun moves with the crux moving into the layback before jugs and a mantle onto stance, then climb easy slabby groove. Gear is good but difficult to place on lead.
Andrew Geeves Jan 2010
</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="25m" name="I Just Don’t Get It"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Towards the left hand end of the cliff, just left of a steep, narrow gully is a line with two ledges. Chimney, stem, mantle and cracks. A fun and varied climb.
Andrew Geeves, Anna Lynch Jan 2010
</climb><text
class="text" new="false">5 minutes walk further along the coast past AOT4ftMC, a long blank wall blocks further progress.</text></guide>
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