<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide><header
access="The best camping is probably straight up from Geryon campsite (walk to that campsite, cross the stream, and then follow the scree for about 15 minutes onto the Labyrinth, heading slightly right to the first lake). The views are magic, and it is ideally placed for the North-to-South traverse. Alternately there is a good bivvy cave between Geryon South and the Acropolis."
acknowledgement="by Matt Perchard, originally published in Craglets. Some route descriptions from Chris Baxter's 1984 guide."
history=""
intro="The cliffs of Mt Geryon and The Acropolis provide absolutely exceptional climbing "on the wild side". Many of the routes have had few ascents, so obviously take appropriate precautions - the seriousness of accidents is high, with help a good days walk away. The downside of the climbing is twosome. Firstly, expect the usual foul weather. Multiple trips before even laying chalk to rock are hardly uncommon. Secondly, packs full of camping and climbing gear are good "fun". Described below are the classic traverses - and not to be missed! The north to south direction is the norm, but is has been done the other way, both ways in a day, even in winter. This is a classic day in the mountains, with nothing too serious to stop competent climbers. The crags were written up in the 1984 issue of Australian Rock and a guidebook was later published by Chris Baxter in 1999. Refer to that guide for full details of all climbs. The route descriptions have been reproduced here, however more detail around access etc is needed. If anyone has high resolution photos (4+ megapixels) of these faces suitable for topos please send them in."
name="Mt Geryon & The Acropolis" new="false"
rock="Alpine dolerite, up to 400m high"
sun="Mixed sun and shade"
walk="Half a day relatively flat bushwalk"/><gps
new="true"><point code="GER010"
description="Bottom of scree slide above Mt Geryon campsite"
easting="421327" height="0" northing="5357224"
zone="55G"></point><point code="GER020"
description="Top of scree slide above Mt Geryon campsite"
easting="421562" height="0" northing="5357356"
zone="55G"></point></gps><text class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">Mt Geryon West Face</text><image new="false"
noPrint="false" number="null." src="geryon2.png"
width="">null</image>
<climb extra="" grade="" length=""
name="North Peak Normal Route"
stars="">From the Cephissus scree chute traverse N below the cliffs of the South Peak. From near the foot of the Foresight descend a large gully and continue N under the cliffs of the North Peak to a scree gully. From the top of this go S along the level ridge and down to a saddle. Scramble up S to the N summit of the peak.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="12" length="307m" name="Damocles" number=""
stars="">Obvious line on the SW face of Mt Geryon's North Peak leading to the gap between the North Peak and the turret to the N. Start below a dark corner.
1) 35 m Go diagonally R up the R-slanting corner to just below a scree slope
2) 23 m Go diagonally L across the scree and L round a large block to below two corners.
3) 33 m From the ledge 3 m above, take the L line for 3 m. Go into the R line and follow it to a large ledge at 16 m. Traverse 7 m L and up to a stance.
4) 40 m (crux) Climb the line on the R to a ledge at 16 m. Go up L to a large ledge below a sleep wall. Jam the crack in this to a ledge then up and R to a long vegetated corner ledge, below the Sword!
5) 37 m Traverse 5 m R to the scrubby line. Climb it for 5 m and move L under a bulge. Go up for 7 m to a vegetated ledge which leads L to a tight chimney which is climbed for 13 m to a large flake on the L
6) 43 m The gully to the gap.
7) 36m Head towards the summit, deviating slightly L on a thin flake at about 13 m.
8) 36m Continue up, veering R to a large ledge.
9) 24 m To summit (slab).
Rob Taylor, Jerry Grandage, Daryl Carr, varied leads, 27-1-68
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="106m" name="Damocles Direct"
new="false" number=""
stars="">1) 38m (crux) Bridge the dark corner to a ledge on the R at 23m. Go up to a large grassy ledge.
2) 40m Scramble up for 7 m. Climb the L crack. Go up ledges to above a corner
3) 28 m Climb L of the crack to a large ledge (the fourth belay of Damocles). Climb the corner (up the Sword) and through bushes. Belay in the corner at the R end of a bushy ledge.
4)-8) Climb the crack at the L end of the ledge which is the "tight chimney" on the fifth pitch of Damocles. The rest of this route is more or less as for Damocles.
Clive Parker, Roger Caffin, alternate leads, 23-2-68. Alan and Geoff Gledhill did the first free ascent of pitch one (originally 12, M3) on 22-1-69</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="9" length="91m" name="Foresight Normal Route"
new="false" number=""
stars="**">An excellent outing into exciting country. Scramble up the huge gully below the West face of the South Peak and head for a chimney leading to the Foresight/North Peak notch.
1) 25m. Crux. Climb the chimney then scramble to the notch.
2) 35m. Go up the West side of the Foresight to a step on the skyline overlooking the East face.
3) 30m. Exposed but easy climbing on the East side to the top.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="4"
name="South Spur Normal Route">From the Acropolis-Geryon saddle, follow the skyline ridge moving out over the exposed East face where necessary. Mostly scrambling.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="40m" name="Swiss Guide" number=""
stars="">Head up the square corner from the Foresight-South Peak notch. Above the sloping ledge, follow the crack up the corner past two bulges. Ascend the east face for the last 3m.
P.Schwitter, S.Bunton, G.Jordan, Mar 88.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="14" length="182m" name="A Common Thirst"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Start on the NW face of the South Peak about 20 m R of the prominent chimney-gully a short way SW of the col between the South Peak and the Foresight; at an easy looking chimney-gully
1) 27 m Up R side of chimney. When it steepens go R round the arete and up to the end of an obvious R-leaning diagonal.
2) 25 m Scramble up slightly L. Climb the crack in the R wall of the corner. Go towards prominent slabs up R. Traverse R across a bushy ledge and climb a short corner to a large ledge below a slab.
3) 25 m Reverse the corner and traverse. Climb the R wall of the obvious corner until forced L to the arete. Go up aretes and corners lending towards L side of headwall. Good ledge with blocks.
4) 15 m Up to next ledge. Step L round the arete and climb the wall to a large ledge at the foot of a grassy ramp.
5) 50 m Go along the ramp to the first line. Up the gully into a corner and up it.
6) 30 m Climb the wall above for 2 m or so and go L to a groove. Go up past blocks and a small roof to a long narrow ledge below the headwall.
7) 10 m (crux) From the L end of the fault, climb the wall, stepping L at the top.
Kieran Loughran, John Stone, alternate leads, January 1979</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="12" length="114m" name="Vulcan" new="false"
number=""
stars="">It seems very likely that A Common Thirst is a repeat of this climb on the NW corner of the South Peak except that ACT includes a short direct finish (the crux) whereas Vulcan moves R to finish up an easy gully (probably as for Soltanic). Many variations are possible in this area. Start in the gully 45 m below the base of the Foresight.
1) 21 m Up and diagonally R.
2) 15 m Cracks to big blocks.
3) 18 m Diagonally L round scrubby corner then diagonally R.
4) 18 m Up slabs then diagonally R for 8 m on easier ground.
5) 20 m Up obvious line to R of overhangs.
6) 18 m Up to grassy gully leading to top.
Tom Terry, Alan Cross, leads unknown 1967</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="170m" name="Solantic" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Starts from the gully leading to the Foresight-South Peak col.
1) Climb the NW face
2) Traverse R to the W face proper
3) Slab and corner
4) (crux) Chimney and off-width
5) Easy gully to N end of the South Peak.
Kim Bischoff, Grant Dixon, Phil Robinson, varied leads Christmas 1979</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="13" length="175m" name="West Wall Eliminate"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Start below the big corner in the middle of the W face of the South Peak.
1) 37 m Climb the corner and continue up the narrow, slanting slab. Now up to a big ledge.
2) 43 m Traverse L and climb the corner. Step L and climb the diagonal crack to a small, slanting ledge.
3) 37 m Go up the main corner to a huge block 12 m below the roof
4) 33m (crux) Go up for 2 m. Traverse L across the steep wall. Follow the corner diagonally L to a good ledge.
5) 25 m The crack above.
Chris Dewhirst, Roland Pauligk, John Moore, varied leads, 24-2-67</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="235m" name="Bad Craziness"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Some loose rock. Start at the grass terrace 50m right of the West Wall Eliminate and above a small cairn.
1) 45m Climb a short corner with an awkward start, then easily up left and straight up (still easy) to a ledge 15m below a major corner.
2) 40m Move up to the corner, then follow it for a few moves (it becomes an overhanging chimney further up). Exit up left to a ramp. Continue up to a ledge.
3) 35m Continue up left in the line then climb the wall above at the first opportunity, passing just left of a pinnacle of loose rock. Continue up to a stance.
4) 40m The easy (but loose) line leads straight up, via a short excursion to the left, to the ledge above the V chimney.
6) 30m Continue up the chimney-gulley over loose blocks to exit up left in a black groove which leads (unpleasant and loose) to the southwest corner of the summit plateau. (This nasty section is best avoided by continuing through the easy chimney above the last belay until it joins the descent route from the peak.)
C.Baxter, D.Gairns, G.Talbett, Jan 89</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="13 A1" length="123m" name="Elf" new="false"
number=""
stars="">On the S face of the South Peak are two cracks. Elf starts from a sloping grass ledge below the L crack which it follows diagonally L to the top of the SW face. The start is marked with an E.
1) 33 m Climb the corner using aid (presumably one point) at the overhang. Continue up slab to gully.
2) 36 m Up the gully to a large ledge on L.
3) 33m (Crux) Strenuously up the R crack to a large sloping ledge
4) 21 m The L line; a tight chimney.
Tony Crapper, John Bennet, varied leads, Gordon Talbett, 1-3-1968</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="9" length="46m" name="Pixie" number=""
stars="">The crack R of Elf is reached after a 40m slab scramble and a traverse.
1) 30 m (crux) The line involves a thrutch in a V crack
2) 16 m The line.
Bruno Zeller, Tony Crapper, February 1968
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="4"
name="South Peak Normal Route">From the head of the scree chute leading down to the Geryon campsite, scramble up right to pick up a route to the bivouac cave above and north of the Acropolis-Geryon saddle. Go directly above the cave and scramble north below the west cliffs of the South Spur. Drop down a steep gully below the northwest arete of the South Spur into another gully which leads to the col between the South Peak and the South Spur. Go up to just below the col, then either traverse easily on the west side below the ridge, until you can scramble up to a large slab, or alternately, follow the skyline ridge (exposed) from the col to a slab. Climb the slab and gullies to the top.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="12" length="100m" name="Morning Tea" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Enjoyable and straightforward, this route climbs the middle of the N wall of the South Spur. Start in the gully about 50 m below the South Peak-South Spur notch.
1) and 2) Straight up the wall in a series of steps to the NW arete
3) 15 m Arete.
Chris Rathbone, Phil Robinson varied leads, 25-2-1983
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="102m" name="Piece of Cake"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Follows the NW arete of the South Spur. Start from the col before the drop to the gully leading to the South Peak-South Spur notch.
1) 24 m (crux) Start on the L of the face and move R to a ledge at 15 m. Move to R side of face and climb thin diagonal cracks to a big ledge
2) 27 m Climb up from the R edge of the arete and aim for the L of the sharp arete above. Belay on ledge above arete
3) 36 m Up L of main arete 4) 15 m Up to summit.
Allan Keller Terry Costigan, leads unknown, 7-12-1967</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="4" length="" name="South Spur Normal Route"
number=""
stars="">From the Acropolis-Geryon saddle follow the skyline ridge moving out over E face (exposed) where necessary. Mostly scrambling (FA details unknown)
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="310m"
name="Geryon Traverse - South to North" new="false" number=""
stars="***">1). Climb the South Spur Normal Route. Go to the north end of the summit.
2) 75m. Abseil 35m then climb down 40m to the col between the peaks.
3). Along the skyline to the South Peak. From its north tip climb down 12m to a ledge.
4) 35m. Abseil to the South Peak/Foresight col.
5) 15m. Go to a vertical crack under the left end of a large sloping slab. Get onto the slab and move right to overlook the east face. Fixed peg belay.
6) 15m. Step to the right across an exposed corner. Continue up more easily to a bushy ledge.
7) 10m. To the summit.
8) 65m. Reverse the last two pitches of the Foresight Normal Route to the col.
9) 20m. Go right a couple of metres. Climb an easy crack. Traverse left over slabs and go up to a large ledge.
10) 40m. Go up steeply to a ledge at 5m. Left along that ledge and then up 3m right of a corner. Move up and across left to the corner. Continue left to a chimney and climb it.
11) 35m. Easily to the summit of the North Peak.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="140m"
name="Geryon Traverse - North to South" new="false" number=""
stars="***">Start at the edge of the North Peak, overlooking the void. Abseil 45m to the big ledge, from the huge block, taking care to have the ropes over the edge (4m sling required) - amazing stuff! Abseil or downclimb the remaining 20m to the col.
1) 35m. Climb pitch two of the Foresight Normal Route.
2) 30m. Climb pitch three of the Foresight Normal route.
3). From the south end of the Foresight, abseil 40m to the col. At the col, still on abseil, walk down the rocks a further 5m right, to the chimney line of pitch four.
4) 25m. Climb the obvious direct line 8m right of the nose of the South Peak using four points of aid. Go up the easy chimney to below a large overhang.
5) 35m. Climb round right of the overhang. Move left and up to the ridge crest and summit. (Alternately, the previous pitch can be stretched out to 45m and an airy belay, leaving a simple 15m to finish).
6) Walk along the top of the South Peak, then reverse (descend) the South Peak Normal Route to the col. Scramble diagonally right then left over easy rock to the gully which leads to the summit of the South Spur.
7) Descend the South Spur Normal Route.
An amazing, but fairly easy, undertaking. Not to be missed!</climb>
<text
class="heading2">Mt Geryon East Face
</text><text class="text"
new="false"
number="null.">To do - description of how to get here.</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="14" length="193m"
name="East Face of the South Spur (Original Route)" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Start R of the distinctive orange streaks and L of the big corner.
1) 37m A series of cracks and corners
2) 30m Straight up for 21 m then diagonally L to just below and R of a sentry box
3) 12m Traverse 6 m L. Climb the corner past a large tree
4) 37m Climb the chimney above to an attractive flake. From the scrubby ledge at 18 m, go up to the base of a V corner.
5) 37m (crux) Traverse 2 m R and go up the diagonal crack for 12 m. Climb the corner above and go diagonally L to a slanting, scrubby ledge. 6) 40 m Wander up to hit the ridge 30 m S of the summit.
John Moore, Chris Dewhirst, alternate leads, 18-2-1967</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="14 A1" length="371m"
name="East Face of the South Peak (Original Route)" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Start by scrambling up a short gully to a chimney below the South Peak-Foresight col.
1) 48m The chimney to a scree slope.
2) 39m Across L on scree to the foot of the huge ramp
3) 33m Up ledges on the L arete of the ramp to a ledge with loose blocks just L of the main corner. Piton belay (fixed).
4) 33m The corner to a good ledge
5) 30m Straight up for 20 m on steep scrub. Up and L on grass to a bollard
6) 35m Traverse L (grass) for 10 m to a corner which is climbed to a bushy ledge
7) 33m L on bushes, then up a slab before moving back R to a ledge with a fixed peg belay
8) 30m Go R for 7 m to a bushy corner which is climbed, over a large flake, to a good ledge
9) 26m Go diagonally L (easy) to a peg belay on the L wall of a vegetated corner
10) 23m (crux) Climb the corner (two piton runners) (or make an early excursion on to the dirty R wall) which eases (still bushy) to a ledge and bolt anchor
11) 26m Go up the gully for 6 m to fork to L. Climb overhanging loose blocks and go up the corner (fixed peg runners) and move L to a small stance on the face. Tension L from a fixed peg to a bolt which is used to lower into the gully on L (peg belay).
12) 15m The easy but loose gully.
Allan Keller, Tom Terry, Mike Douglas, leads unknown 6-3-1966. FFA Jerry Grandage 23-1-1968.</climb>
<climb
extra="(actually 19?)" grade="17" length="357m" name="Orion"
new="false" number=""
stars="**">A searing line leading to the South Peak-Foresight col.
1) 48 m As for previous route
2) 50 m Up scree to a ledge below the line
3) 48 m Up to foot of chimney
4) 35 m Chimney
5) 30 m The line
6) 48 m Up to below large overhang. Bolt anchors
7) 35 m (crux) Climb the overhang and continue in the line to a stance
8) 48 m The line to another small stance
9) 15 m Up to a ledge then up passing a good cave (shelter) on R.
Roland Pauligk, Peter Canning, varied leads, 18-2-1970. First free ascent (three aids from pitch 7) Peter Treby, Terry Brookes, varied leads, January 1974
One long abseil down the W side to get off.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17 A3" length="365m" name="Titan" new="false"
number=""
stars="">1) 48m As for Orion etc
2) 45m To upper R edge of scree
3) 48m (13) Step R and up for 18 m. Go diagonally R below a smooth wall and up a short corner. Go to a steep crack which is climbed. Go L to a good ledge
4) 24m (13) Down L then up to a corner. Climb this for 5 m to a scrubby ledge. Go 3 m L to next corner which is climbed for 5 m. Exit R to sloping scrubby ledge below large corner.
5) 26m (17 A2) Sustained climbing with three (spaced) pegs for aid up the corner to ledge on R. Bolt anchor
6) 21m (13 A3) Aid L wall of corner (bolt) and move R back to corner. Free to roof then aid round it and up to second small stance.
7) 24m (13 A2) Climb line on R free for 8 m then aid diagonally R for 5 m to a ledge. Easily R to next corner - aided to ledge
8) 36m (13) Scrubby corner above to bushy ledge. The corner above is followed to a sloping ledge on L.
9) 21m (13 A2) Step R, free small corner on L (fixed wedge) to bush. Go R to V corner which is climbed; free then aid. Climb crack on R to stance. Peg anchor
10) 21m (13 A2) The corner above: 9 m aid, 9 m free, rest is aid to ledge. Move R. Peg belay
11) 12m (15) V corner above to stance on L. Fixed peg belay
12) 24m (15 A2) Climb the corner above and move R at 6 m. Go up R corner to roof (fixed pin). Traverse R and aid the thin overhanging crack (fixed pin and bolt). The angle eases to a good ledge
13) 15m Up, easily, to Foresight summit.
Roland Pauligk, Rob Taylor, varied leads, 29/31-1-1968</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="11/16" length="370m"
name="East Face of the Foresight (Original Route)" new="false"
number=""
stars="">In the third small 'bay' down and round R of the previous climbs an obvious easy scrubby line slants up L behind a huge flake. From the R end of the scrubby ledge atop this, some 25 m up, go up short scrubby walls and move up and across R, mainly on easy vegetation to the foot of an enormous gully leading up L to the North Peak-Foresight col. (From here Jones and Lyons apparently more of less followed the last two pitches of the normal Foresight route.) (In March 1983 Glenn Tempest, solo, did a significant variant, grade 16, up the buttress immediately L of the huge gully.)
Bob Jones, Bernie Lyons, leads unknown early 1960s
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="24" length="450m" name="The Shield" number=""
stars="**">Start as for East Face of the Foresight route.
1-4) 150m Follow this route over easy, scrubby ledges to bottom of huge gully system.
5-8) 130m R to steeper ground, then up over scrubby ledges and steepening walls, tending R towards base of headwall. Up L to gain base of deep chimney-corner below headwall proper (pitch 9 of Pericles).
9) 20m (17) Avoid chimney-corner by climbing L arete, then R to large, bushy ledge.
10) 25m (22) Move belay 10m R to below vertical corner. Up this, then swing R to large, bushy ledge.
11) 40m (24) L crack-corner to ledge (crux) (not corner with fixed wire in it!). Up crack above to block in alcove.
12) 20m (18) Corner to ledge below prominent triple-pointed roof.
13) 35m (22) L to wide crack, up this to ledge. Overhanging crack through bulge to deep V-niche below summit roof.
14) 30m (23) Up to chockstone below steepening. Traverse boldly and with difficulty R to arete above triple-pointed roof. Up R to crack, follow this R.
Steve Monks, Jane Wilkinson 20-2-94</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16 A1" length="450m" name="Pericles" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">Start at a shallow chimney (P on L wall) 65 m L of the bivy cave and a similar distance R of the previous route.
1) 42m (10) Climb the chimney crack for 30 m then continue more easily
2) 36m (4) Leave the gully and head up R
3) 36m (4) Go straight up to a steepening
4) 36m (7) Go L then up to a small horizontal ledge. Traverse 6 m R
5) 39m (11) Climb the first line to the R for 36 m. Move L and climb a short steep wall to a small stance. Peg belay
6) 39m (13) Climb the scrubby crack to the R then on to the nose (peg runner). Go to the end of the ramp and up a crack for 5 m. Traverse 3 m L. Piton belay
7) 42m (8) Go up to below a small chimney on L
8) 15m (9) Move L then up into the foot of the chimney
9) 21m (16 A1) Climb the corner, L of the chimney to the overhang. Move back to the chimney which is climbed to the chockstones. Go R on to the face. Climb the corner (sling for aid), piton runner, to a ledge. Peg anchor
10) 33m (12) The chimney to a large ledge
11) 30m (12) Up the line to the nose of the buttress
12) 30m (14) The same line to a small chimney
13) 36m (8) Traverse 9 m R to a large chimney; climb it to a small stance
14) 15m (14) Climb the overhang where the chimney narrows to a crack.
Alan and Geoff Gledhill, varied leads 28-1-1969. On the second ascent in 1974 Keith Wadsworth and Rein Kamar, alternate leads, eliminated single aids from pitches 6, 9 and 12</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17 A1" length="432m" name="Prometheus"
new="false" number=""
stars="">On the E face of the Ducane Plateau 100 metres or so N of the bivy cave is a large fallen column. 20 m R of this is a crack with Prometheus etched prominently beside it.
1) 39m (15 A1) Climb the scrubby crack to where the crack steepens. Aid the R crack then free up behind pinnacle to a large ledge
2) 45m (11) Diagonally L to foot of line. Belay above scree gully
3) 36m (11) The chossy buttress on L
4) 36m (13) Go further L then up the broken area for 20 m, traversing R to detached flakes.
5) 21m (15) Traverse diagonally R to main gully. Go up to piton belay
6) 36m (15) Go down 3 m. Traverse R across gully to feasible crack which leads to a big ledge
7) 42m (15 A1) Climb the chimney above to a ledge at 21 m. Traverse L to a steep, wet crack (peg for aid) which leads to a ledge above an overhanging wall
8) 39m (13) Up the chimney crack to loose blocks below the overhang
9) 18m (15 A1) Climb the widening chimney to a rest at 6 m. Aid the corner above and step L
10) 30m (16) Climb the corner behind to a ledge. Go over loose blocks to next corner which is climbed to foot of chimney
11) 45m (15) Climb the narrowing chimney then up easily
12) 45m (10) Gully
John Moore Roland Pauligk, alternate leads 28-2-1967 to 1-3-1967</climb>
<text
class="heading2">The Acropolis North Face
</text><text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">To do - description of how to get here.</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="220m" name="Venus" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Start 20 m up L of the L buttress of the main face
1) 30m Up easily on R then behind block to good ledge on R
2) 20m Step R and climb cracks over loose blocks to exit L to ledge
3) 25m (crux) Step L to wide crack. Up this and the rib above. Step R to slabby corner and up it to block on L
4) 30m Up wide crack above then move R across loose blocks and up flake to behind pinnacle. Move up to belay
5) 30m Climb cracks on L to ledge. Step L, up bushes, then R to chimney. Climb this over first chockstone then go through hole to good ledge
6) 25m Crack above, taking R fork at top
7) 25m Traverse L a little, up step, then round L to foot of chimney in corner
8) 20m Up chimney and blocks above to ledge on R
9) 35m Up corners, cracks and ledges to top.
Chris Baxter, Dave Moss alternate leads 3-3-1983
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="13" length="230m"
name="North Face (Original Route)" new="false" number=""
stars="">Start at the foot of the lowest buttress on the face (down R of Venus, on the next buttress - really the middle one). Broken climbing for 60 m up the crest of the buttress leads to a large green gully running diagonally down L. Cross this and continue up, moving slightly L for 75 m to a prominent chimney. (A traverse off L is possible here.) Climb the chimney and go up to a short wall. The final pitch (36 m) is the crux; go L round the corner and climb a crack to a large ledge. Traverse R above the belay and go up the steep line. Finish up chimney between face and pinnacle.
John Worrall, Reg Williams, alternate leads 19-1-1966</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="270m" name="The Wizard of Wad"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Start up R of the previous route on the R side of the buttress, a few metres L of Fury
1) 30m Easily diagonally up L to buttress crest
2) 25m The crack directly above. Step L over block and go up arete on L. Now easily to large block
3) 45m Up the buttress crest to the large green ramp
4) 40m The wide crack above then the chimney to a ledge on L
5) 40m Climb blocks on R and move across L to chimney. Go up this to ledge. L to a wide crack which is climbed, moving L, to a good ledge
6) 15m Climb the crack above to a grass ledge. Move L to below chimney
7) 40m Climb the chimney and blocks above moving L to a ledge below a hand-crack
8) 25m Climb the hand crack and the cracks above on the R to go up behind a huge pinnacle
9) 10m The middle crack.
Chris Baxter, Dave Moss, alternate leads, and Miles Martin 6-3-1983</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="24" length="36m" name="Astroboy" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">This remarkable and sustained crack is approached by abseil from the top of the cliff. Take size 2.5 Friends. The first L-lacing corner L of the top of Fury; starting from a block ledge.
Glenn Tempest, Russell Clune 7-3-1983
</climb>
<climb
extra="9B" grade="25" length="30m" name="The Far Side"
number="."
stars="***">The sharp arete right of Astro Boy. Abseil to the Astro Boy start ledge (a 50m rope doubled just makes it). Stupidly exposed barn-door laybacking on perfect rock. Nick Hancock, Roger Parkyn Mar 04.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="220m" name="Wailing for Jonah"
number=""
stars="">Start at the cairn 5m left of Fury.
1-2) 90m Climb straight up the corner system and a grassy ledge.
3) 40m Climb the second corner system left of Fury to a bushy ledge, then ascend the off-width corner (with jammed block.)
4) 35m Climb the obvious crack on the right to a prominent ledge.
5) 15m Finish up the corner on the left.
J.Keane, D.Baker, Feb 91</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18 A1" length="210m" name="Fury" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Start about 20 m up R of the toe of the middle buttress (the lowest) below a line leading to a small pale yellow and black roof at about 8 m
1) 40m Up and chimney past roof on L. Up to third ledge
2) 45m Corner. At 7 m traverse L above the roof to a crack which is climbed (easing) to the large grass ramp. Go up R to below corner
3) 40m Climb the main corner to a small horizontal break
4) 45m (crux) The line to a ledge. Up, one aid 2 m below roof, to semi hanging belay
5) 20m Corner.
Peter Treby, Terry Brookers, varied leads 31-1-1974</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="25" length="210m" name="Black Man's Country"
new="false" number=""
stars="***">Start up the L side of the inspiring 80 m wall (Mellow Buttress), just R of the R-lacing corner marking its L edge.
1) 45m (18) Climb thin cracks and the face just R of the corner until these join the corner. Belay on large block in corner below overhang
2) 30m (20) Traverse 5 m R and climb groove R of roof. Pass small roof and continue up corner to ledge
3) 45m (22) Step R on top of blocks and climb crack to face. Climb it and step R to top of large flake. A short face leads up and L to a crack. Climb this past a small overhang to a ledge. Continue up hand-crack, stepping R and up to a large ledge
4) 40m (17) Obvious crack and chimney to bushy ledge
5) 30m (19) Climb L-facing corner for 9 m then step R to ledge. Climb face above to another ledge
6) 20m (25) Up and R to obvious L-facing corner. Up past fixed peg runner near top.
Glenn Tempest, Russ Clune alternate leads 6-3-1983 (Originally done with one aid at the top; both led that pitch free next day)</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" length="240m" name="Old Wave Heroes"
new="false" number=""
stars="***">1) 50m (18) As for Miles From Nowhere
2) 40m (21) Step L and climb the crack. Avoid the block at the top by climbing the L wall to a ledge
3) 40m (20) The crack above curves R to a broken chimney. Up this to a superb ledge on the L
4) 40m (19) Climb the chimney until an obvious hand-traverse leads out R to a crack. Up this to a large ledge
5) 50m (19) Instead of the off-width in the corner, climb the hand-crack just R of it. Move L to the corner which is climbed to below the wide chimney of The Gates of Eden. Up this and the easy corner above to a ledge on the L. (TGOE goes up the body chimney above.) Go L to the arete and climb the thin crack and wall to a ledge
6) 20m (18) As for TGOE
Glenn Tempest, Chris Baxter 1- 3-1983</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" length="200m" name="Miles From Nowhere"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Start a few metres down R of Black Man's Country at a small black V groove (marked with an arrow) in the middle of Mellow Buttress. (L of low obvious grey roofs.)
1) 50m (18) A fantastic pitch! Up the grooves and cracks to the top of a block. Climb the thin face crack above and step up R to belay
2) 50m (18) Go up R to the wide corner crack. Above, a shallow corner leads to a series of stacked blocks. Belay on top
3) 35m (17) Take the hand crack just R of the main line to a good ledge. Go R behind block
4) 25m (19) Up the wide line behind to a small stance
5) 40m (21) The main line is avoided by a small traverse R to another off-width. Up this and the hand crack above.
Glenn Tempest, Russell Clune, alternate leads 3-3-1983</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18 A1" length="205m" name="The Gates of Eden"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Start immediately R of Mellow Buttress, up R of MFN
1) 30m (6) Climb the slabby wall to the foot of the main face. Take the corner above to a large block
2) 24m (8) Up the smaller corner, higher to the L. Back R to below a dank chimney
3) 15m (8) Climb the chimney and go R to large ledge
4) 15m (13) Up the short steep crack to R, then the wide crack above to top of block
5) 36m (11) Go diagonally L across a slanting, scrubby ledge. Continue up to a large ledge below a small corner
6) 27m (9) Climb the small crack above. Belay on the big ledge below a large jammed block
7) 30m (17 A1) Up for 6 m, traverse L (leader used tension, second didn't) and step down to foot of a bulging crack. Climb this and the chimney above to a good ledge
8) 21m (15) Climb the chimney for 9 m to a ledge. Continue up the unpleasant body crack. Move up L to belay
9) 20m (18) The magnificent corner containing two antique wedges.
Chris Dewhirst, John Moore, varied leads 17-2-1967. Glenn Tempest and Russell Clune eliminated the two aids from the final pitch on 7-3-1983</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="200m"
name="In the Days When the World Was Wide" number=""
stars="">A six-pitch route starting up the wall 7 m R of TGOE and following a direct line. The last pitch is the crux.
Chris Rathbone, Phil Robinson, alternate leads 24-2-1983
</climb>
<text
class="heading2">The Acropolis West Face
</text><text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">To do - description of how to get here.</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="155m" name="The Plenipotentiary"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Scramble up a gully below the pinnacle.
1) 36m (8) Up buttress to large slanting ledge
2) 30m (13) Up slabs to foot of corner
3) 21m (15) Traverse L past a thin crack. Continue diagonal traverse and layback up narrow slabs. Swing round into a vertical V crack which is climbed to a large ledge
4) 12m (8) Traverse diagonally L. Climb a sharp corner to a small ledge
5) 38m (16) Traverse R to the V crack and climb it
6) 18m (5) Chimney to the pinnacle-top (Abseil into the notch and find a way, roped scrambling, to the top of the cliffs.)
John Moore, Reg Williams, Chris Dewhirst, varied leads, 19-2-1967</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="165m" name="Juggles" new="false"
number="" stars="">Starts up the corner just R of The Plenipotentiary. Start 10m R of corner.
1) 30m (10) Series of steps, keeping R of vegetation
2) 12m (11) Climb 6 m up crack in corner on L. Traverse over block to main corner
3) 24m (15) The corner
4) 30m (13) Up underneath overhang and go R round it. Climb crack then gully to 8 m below The Plenipotentiary notch
5) 6m (13) L corner to notch (Route now follows ridge behind The Plenipotentiary)
6) 12m (11) Traverse R and up short corners to ledge. Go 6 m R to base of off-width
7) 15m (15) Climb off-width for 9m to ledge below overhang. Traverse L to nose, level with top of pinnacle
8) 30m (12)Chimney and crack
9) 7m (11) Go R to short crack with loose blocks. Climb this to big ledge which leads L to exit gully.
Col Hocking, Phil Robinson, varied leads 31-1-1977</climb>
</guide>
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