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<guide pagesize="500">
<header access="" acknowledgement="" history=""
intro="This section covers the coast between Sleepy Bay north to Cape Tourville."
name="Cape Tourville Area" new="false"
rock="White granite at Carp Bay Point, grainier at Cape Tourville"
sun="Morning sun" walk="5-25 mins"/>
<text
class="heading3">Rogers Useless Knob</text><text
class="Discussion">The pinnacle about 500 m north along the coast from Sleepy Bay, most easily reached by boat.</text><climb
extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="3"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m"
name="Chunky Thighs" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Climb the grooves on the south face of the pinnacle, to a ledge on the L arete. Follow the thin slab above, past a carrot to the summit. Descent is best facilitated by lowering the second to the col, then abseiling off the east face, with the rope carefully placed over the summit. Nick Hancock & Doug McConnell February 2003.">Climb the grooves on the south face of the pinnacle, to a ledge on the L arête. Follow the thin slab above, past a carrot to the summit. Descent is best facilitated by lowering the second to the col, then abseiling off the east face, with the rope carefully placed over the summit. Nick Hancock & Doug McConnell February 2003.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="4"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m"
name="Parkination Space Station" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Climb the short overhanging crack on the east face of the pinnacle, to an awkward groove and a ledge on the arete. Continue up the arete to a smaller ledge, then follow the slab to the top. Nick Hancock & Doug McConnell February 2003."> Climb the short overhanging crack on the east face of the pinnacle, to an awkward groove and a ledge on the arête. Continue up the arête to a smaller ledge, then follow the slab to the top. Nick Hancock & Doug McConnell February 2003.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="5"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m"
name="Blue Water White Death" new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="A scary deep-water solo on the L wall of the entrance to the deep zawn, 20 metres north of the pinnacle. Traverse out R to the middle of the wall and follow the shallow groove to finish out L at a ledge. Nick Hancock February 2003."> A scary deep-water solo on the L wall of the entrance to the deep zawn, 20 metres north of the pinnacle. Traverse out R to the middle of the wall and follow the shallow groove to finish out L at a ledge. Nick Hancock February 2003.</climb>
<text
class="heading3">Carp Bay Point</text><text class="text"
new="false">This headland lies midway between Cape Tourville and Sleepy Bay. It can be seen from the light house as the point with the rock shelf extending into the sea. A rock pinnacle is also visible on the ridge line. To get there drive approx. 200m past the end of the bitumen section of road, at the top of the hill when approaching Cape Tourville. You'll find a disused vehicular track (it's a bit hard to spot, but if you go under the power lines you've gone too far) on the right. Follow this track as it winds its way roughly towards the coast. When it ends, follow the ridge towards the coast, staying on its crest. The ridge becomes narrower the further you proceed.</text><text
class="Discussion">The next three climbs are located on the detached piece of cliff between the main ridge and the rock shelf to the east. The best approach is to drop down to sea level off the end of the ridge line (you'll now be on the Wineglass Bay side of the detached cliff) and work back around to the south. Alternatively you can approach the top via the most obvious means (be careful). There are no lower-offs on the climbs, so you need to carry enough gear to set a belay rap.</text><climb
grade="14" length="15m" name="Cracked Princess" number=""
stars=""> At the eastern tip of the cliff line, just past a zawn, is a steep prow. This route climbs the wide crack to its L, on good face holds. Nick Hancock, Sophie LeRoux, Feb 02.</climb><climb
extra="2B" grade="26" length="15m" name="Span King" new="false"
number="" stars="**"
value="The desperate flared crack in the prow via two U-bolts. Nick Hancock, Feb 02."> The desperate flared crack in the prow via two U-bolts. Nick Hancock, Feb 02.</climb><climb
extra="3B" grade="24" length="15m" name="Slappy Queen"
new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="The vague open groove just to the R, via three U-bolts. N.Hancock, S.LeRoux, Feb 02."> The vague open groove just to the R, via three U-bolts. N.Hancock, S.LeRoux, Feb 02.</climb><text
class="Discussion">The next three climbs are at the right hand end of the cliff line that faces Cape Tourville. Best approached by dropping down that side of the ridge at the midden. It's then easy enough to follow the rock shelf to the climbs. Sheffield Steal is probably the easiest to locate, just look for the bolts.</text><climb
grade="20" length="20m" name="Powder Monkey" number=""
stars=""> Around 10m left of Snow Blind is an easy looking, left trending diagonal line. Follow this to a few tricky moves at the top. Rock and gear not great. A.Bissett, K.Robinson, 2002.</climb><climb
grade="20" length="30m" name="Snow Blind" number=""
stars=""> Twin corners immediately left of Sheffield Steal. Climb through the rooflet and continue up the corners, moving right to join the top of Sheffield Steal at its last bolt. Andrew Bissett, 2002.</climb><climb
extra="7B" grade="22" length="30m" name="Sheffield Steal"
new="false" number="" stars="*"
value="Towards the right side of the cliffs, and just left of a big jutting roof, is an undercut arete with seven U-bolts. Nice technical climbing. Again no lower-offs so get some-one to second you, or down climb to the top bolt and lower off this (not recommended) or fix a rope to a tree, clean the route and enjoy the long walk to retrieve your rope. Nick Hancock, Nov 01."> Towards the right side of the cliffs, and just left of a big jutting roof, is an undercut arête with seven U-bolts. Nice technical climbing. Again no lower-offs so get some-one to second you, or down climb to the top bolt and lower off this (not recommended) or fix a rope to a tree, clean the route and enjoy the long walk to retrieve your rope. Nick Hancock, Nov 01.</climb><text
class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">Cape Tourville</text><text
class="description">This is the steep, large cliff below the Cape Tourville lighthouse. From the lighthouse, drop downhill and about 150m southwest (towards Sleepy Bay). Scramble down and abseil from a variety of places, depending on what area of the cliff you intend climbing on. Alternative access is possible (but considerably longer) by walking down several hundred metres to the north of the lighthouse. Getting to the main face is rather difficult this way. People reckon the rock gets pretty manky on some of the upper pitches.</text><text
class="heading3" new="false">Painkiller Area</text>
<text
class="description">The following three climbs can be found at a new area at the far L hand end of the Cape Tourville cliffs, about 50 metres before they swing south towards Carp Bay Point. Follow a cairned and blazed track from 50 metres west of the Bluestone Bay turnoff from the Cape Tourville road. Eventually the path ends in a creekbed overlooking a high pillar just to the R, and a cairn atop a lower orange-topped buttress down L.</text><climb
extra="" grade="24" guide.action="submit" guide.id="19"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="40m" name="Painkiller"
new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="1. 25m 21 Climb a thin crack on the R side of the seaward face of the high pillar, then move L and pull over a roof into a v-groove. Climb this to a big ledge. 2. 15m 24 Follow the flared R trending crack to below the final tower, then climb the finger crack above on good locks. Nick Hancock & Doug McConnell, February 2003.">1. 25m 21 Climb a thin crack on the R side of the seaward face of the high pillar, then move L and pull over a roof into a v-groove. Climb this to a big ledge. 2. 15m 24 Follow the flared R trending crack to below the final tower, then climb the finger crack above on good locks. Nick Hancock & Doug McConnell, February 2003.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="25" guide.action="submit" guide.id="20"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="25m" name="E"
new="false" number="" stars="***"
value="The thin flake crack, past a big horizontal break, leading to twin cracks up the orange wall below the cairn. Doug McConnell & Nick Hancock, February 2003."> The thin flake crack, past a big horizontal break, leading to twin cracks up the orange wall below the cairn. Doug McConnell & Nick Hancock, February 2003.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" guide.action="submit" guide.id="21"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m"
name="Sister Morphine" new="false" number="" stars="*"
value="Climb the arete just right of a box shaped alcove 25m R of E. Doug McConnell & Nick Hancock February 2003."> Climb the arête just right of a box shaped alcove 25m R of E. Doug McConnell & Nick Hancock February 2003.</climb>
<text
class="heading3">Delta of Venus Wall</text><text
class="description">Stumble onto Delta of Venus wall from the southern end of the Cape Tourville crags. It is first viewed as a square wall rising from the water across a zawn, streaked with vertical cracks.</text><climb
grade="18" length="23m" name="Cumquat" number=""
stars=""> R.McMahon, J.Fisher, Mar 95.</climb><climb grade="21"
length="23m" name="Slippery Helm" number=""
stars=""> J.Fisher, R.McMahon, Mar 95.</climb><climb grade="18"
length="23m" name="Budgie Seed" number=""
stars=""> R.McMahon, J.Fisher, Mar 95.</climb><climb grade="19"
length="23m" name="Delta of Venus" number=""
stars=""> J.Fisher, R.McMahon, Mar 95.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false">Sugar Crumb Area</text><text
class="Discussion"
new="false">The remainder of the climbs are found on the main Cape Tourville walls. Sugar Crumb Arête is the first climb encountered as you move right from Delta of Venus wall.</text><climb
extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="29"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="100m"
name="Sugar Crumb Arête" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Turn right off the road 50m before the lighthouse along a clear path through burnt out scrub and down to a clear area on the cliff edge. There is an obvious arete where the cliff makes a right angled bend. Abseil down the big, grey, less steep, southern face for 45m onto a wide sloping ramp. Continue to abseil and scramble carefully down to about 15m above sea-level, where it is possible to walk round to the northern side of the arete until difficulties increase and the climbing starts. <br/>1) 15m. Continue traversing then go up a short corner onto the top of the large prominent rib. <br/>2) 30m. Leftward up the ramp until it meets the arete. (a direct start to here seems likely). <br/>3) 35m. Around left up the wall on various cracks then right onto the arete and up a loose section to a large ledge leading off to the right. <br/>4) 15m. A short but spectacular finish. Step directly up and traverse left on delicate holds to a jam crack and then up this to the top. <br/>Phil Robinson, Glen Kowalik, May 78.">Turn right off the road 50m before the lighthouse along a clear path through burnt out scrub and down to a clear area on the cliff edge. There is an obvious arête where the cliff makes a right angled bend. Abseil down the big, grey, less steep, southern face for 45m onto a wide sloping ramp. Continue to abseil and scramble carefully down to about 15m above sea-level, where it is possible to walk round to the northern side of the arête until difficulties increase and the climbing starts. 
1) 15m. Continue traversing then go up a short corner onto the top of the large prominent rib. 
2) 30m. Leftward up the ramp until it meets the arête (a direct start to here seems likely). 
3) 35m. Around left up the wall on various cracks then right onto the arête and up a loose section to a large ledge leading off to the right. 
4) 15m. A short but spectacular finish. Step directly up and traverse left on delicate holds to a jam crack and then up this to the top. 
Phil Robinson, Glen Kowalik, May 78.</climb><text
class="heading3">Clichy Face</text><text
class="Discussion">To the right where a blocky pillar is found on a more compact wall.</text><climb
extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="32"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="80m"
name="Quiet Days in Clichy" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="1) 25m. Traverse across face, heading right to blocky pillar buttressing the lower part of the cliff. An excellent traverse, with a pocket of large quartz crystals half way across. <br/>2) 43m. Through a bit of an overhang and straight up crack on face - steep, strong and exposed. Gain large ledge before last steep face. <br/>3) 12m. Very steep face to finish (crux). R.McMahon, B.Maddison, 1979.">1) 25m. Traverse across face, heading right to blocky pillar buttressing the lower part of the cliff. An excellent traverse, with a pocket of large quartz crystals half way across.
2) 43m. Through a bit of an overhang and straight up crack on face - steep, strong and exposed. Gain large ledge before last steep face.
3) 12m. Very steep face to finish (crux). R.McMahon, B.Maddison, 1979.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="33"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="65m"
name="Rue de Remarque" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="The big corner to the right of Quiet Days in Clichy. <br/>1) 45m. Jamming and bridging. <br/>2) 20m. Finishes up steep face to the right of finish for Quiet Days in Clichy on exceedingly temporary rock. J.Fantini, B.Maddison.">The big corner to the right of Quiet Days in Clichy.
1) 45m. Jamming and bridging.
2) 20m. Finishes up steep face to the right of finish for Quiet Days in Clichy on exceedingly temporary rock. J.Fantini, B.Maddison.</climb><text
class="heading3" guide.action="submit" guide.id="61"
guide.page="0" guide.type="text" new="false"
value="Main Wall">Main Cliff</text><text
class="Discussion">Across the little intervening zawn the main cliff begins.</text><climb
extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="35"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="70m" name="Giverny"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Just left of a very imposing corner (Rue Montparnasse) is a more subtle line on the face. Some good face climbing on the first pitch. The second pitch is virtually the same as for Rue Montparnasse and is rather scrubby, finishing on a steep clean piece of rock. R.McMahon, Carys Fantini, 1980."> Just left of a very imposing corner (Rue Montparnasse) is a more subtle line on the face. Some good face climbing on the first pitch. The second pitch is virtually the same as for Rue Montparnasse and is rather scrubby, finishing on a steep clean piece of rock. R.McMahon, Carys Fantini, 1980.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="36"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="70m"
name="Rue Montparnasse" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="1) The excellent corner. The crux section is a little bit of rounded off-width but is bridgeable. 2) Substandard. Ben Maddison, Robert McMahon, 1980.">1) The excellent corner. The crux section is a little bit of rounded off-width but is bridgeable. 2) Substandard. Ben Maddison, Robert McMahon, 1980.</climb><climb
grade="18" length="75m" name="Only the Foolish Mourn" number=""
stars="*"> Move right from Rue Montparnasse until a gap requiring climbing is reached. Start with a bridging move here and head up and right to a classic corner - hand crack. Follow this to 5m from top where blocky face is climbed. N.Smith, R.McMahon, May 81.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="39"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="90m"
name="Cape Crumbles" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Directly below the lighthouse, just left of the big central zawn. <br/>1) 20m. Climb short corner of easy crack to left. <br/>2) 40m. Up ball-bearing rock of corner crack system above. <br/>3) 30m. Up even baser rock of gully corner above. Disgusting. D.Stephenson, L.Kriwoken, Feb 87.">Directly below the lighthouse, just left of the big central zawn.
1) 20m. Climb short corner of easy crack to left.
2) 40m. Up ball-bearing rock of corner crack system above.
3) 30m. Up even baser rock of gully corner above. Disgusting. D.Stephenson, L.Kriwoken, Feb 87.</climb><climb
grade="16" length="20m" name="The Link" number=""
stars=""> This is the route that traverses right from about 5m up the Rue Montparnasse corner and with a downward move connects with the platform at the foot of the main face. R.McMahon, N.Smith, M.Ling, 1980.</climb><climb
grade="21" length="90m" name="Porpoise" number=""
stars=""> A superb corner. Left of the main overhangs up a scooping corner. M.Colyvan, J.Fantini, 1980'ish.</climb><climb
grade="22" length="25m" name="Tour de Force" number=""
stars=""> Crack at the right of the main platform with a hard start. Up to the roof. J.Fisher, R.McMahon, Mar 95.</climb><climb
grade="18" length="16m" name="Antioch" number=""
stars=""> The crack left of Byzantium. Up to the roof. R.McMahon, J.Fisher, Mar 95.</climb><climb
grade="19" length="27m" name="Byzantium" number=""
stars="*"> From Rue Montparnasse traverse right via The Link onto the main ledge below the main overhangs. Starts towards the left end of the roof. Up the obvious handpockets to finish under the overhangs to the left. Traverse (lead) down left to exit. R.McMahon, N.Smith, M.Ling, 1980.</climb><climb
grade="22" length="30m" name="High Energy Plan" number=""
stars=""> A one pitch route which abseils from under the rooves. D.Fife, Phil Steane?</climb><climb
grade="18" length="30m" name="Goodbye Tiger" number=""
stars=""> Right of Byzantium toward the right hand end of the overhangs. Up a series of cracks to the crux, which is really wide bridging between two ribs. Finishes under roofs, abseil off. R.McMahon, N.Smith, 1979.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="47"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="90m"
name="Heartbreaker" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Right of Goodbye Tiger. <br/>1) 42m. Rounded crack to the roof. Turn on right, trying not to get lodged into off-width through subsidiary roof. The crack upwards is good, to ledge below big off-width. Traverse left, move up and turn corner right on underclings (hard), up the slab corner ,traverse right on slab to belay. <br/>2) 20m. Traverse back left again to corner, up this then belay.">Right of Goodbye Tiger.
1) 42m. Rounded crack to the roof. Turn on right, trying not to get lodged into off-width through subsidiary roof. The crack upwards is good, to ledge below big off-width. Traverse left, move up and turn corner right on underclings (hard), up the slab corner ,traverse right on slab to belay.
2) 20m. Traverse back left again to corner, up this then belay.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="48"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="70m"
name="Tour de Farce" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Good route, avoids shit rock typical of rest of cliff. Start at the obvious hand-crack on the steep wall left of big corner just left of central zawn. <br/>1) 35m. Climb crack to horizontal break. Avoid continuation in off-width above by stepping left 5m, up overlap, and back right on slab to belay. <br/>2) 25m. Short chimney, above (or shallow corner just to the left, better) to face above climb this to belay on ledge. <br/>3) 10m. Left and up corner to top. D.Stephenson, S.Bunton, Apr 88.">Good route, avoids shit rock typical of rest of cliff. Start at the obvious hand-crack on the steep wall left of big corner just left of central zawn.
1) 35m. Climb crack to horizontal break. Avoid continuation in off-width above by stepping left 5m, up overlap, and back right on slab to belay.
2) 25m. Short chimney, above (or shallow corner just to the left, better) to face above climb this to belay on ledge.
3) 10m. Left and up corner to top. D.Stephenson, S.Bunton, Apr 88.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="49"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="100m"
name="La Grande Epoque" new="false" number="" stars=""
value=""Australia's greatest sea-cliff route?" Probably not. Up the recessed, bulging face right of the main face with the roofs. <br/>1) 33m. Up the crack and through the roof. Then crack slants right then traverse right to semi-hanging belay. <br/>2) 27m. This pitch traces a great question mark with the belayer anchored to the cliff as the dot. Straight up - a desperate traverse into crack on right. Up that for about 10m then traverse left into what looks like a cave from the ground. <br/>3) 40m. Straight up or through the rooves to the left (easier). J.Fantini, R.McMahon, Dec 80?">"Australia's greatest sea-cliff route?" Probably not. Up the recessed, bulging face right of the main face with the roofs.
1) 33m. Up the crack and through the roof. Then crack slants right then traverse right to semi-hanging belay.
2) 27m. This pitch traces a great question mark with the belayer anchored to the cliff as the dot. Straight up - a desperate traverse into crack on right. Up that for about 10m then traverse left into what looks like a cave from the ground.
3) 40m. Straight up or through the rooves to the left (easier). J.Fantini, R.McMahon, Dec 80?</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="50"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="90m"
name="Acts of Piracy" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="A terrific route sadly marred by the off-width. At the right hand end of the overhangs. <br/>1) Series of hand-cracks (beautiful pockets mainly) leading to a nasty off-width crux, then belay. <br/>2) Series of flakes leading to the top. Evelyn Lees, N.Smith, P.Cullen, B.Maddison, Jan 82.">A terrific route sadly marred by the off-width. At the right hand end of the overhangs.
1) Series of hand-cracks (beautiful pockets mainly) leading to a nasty off-width crux, then belay.
2) Series of flakes leading to the top. Evelyn Lees, N.Smith, P.Cullen, B.Maddison, Jan 82.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="51"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="95m"
name="Queen of Swords" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="1) 20m. Easy to bottom of corner. <br/>2) 36m. The corner is an offwidth horror show with some wire protection in thin crack on right. <br/>3) 7m. Very difficult up and left onto ledge to gain belay. <br/>4) 25m. Straight up and long traverse out left. <br/>5) 7m. Nice corner to finish. J.Fantini, R.McMahon, Dec 80?">1) 20m. Easy to bottom of corner.
2) 36m. The corner is an offwidth horror show with some wire protection in thin crack on right.
3) 7m. Very difficult up and left onto ledge to gain belay.
4) 25m. Straight up and long traverse out left.
5) 7m. Nice corner to finish. J.Fantini, R.McMahon, Dec 80?</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="52"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="100m"
name="Folies Berger" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="The last continuous line on the right of the cliff. The start is gained by walking north from the lighthouse down to the base of the cliffs, and then south. Start above the chasm by stepping left into the crack. <br/>1) 50m. Step left into the crack, straight up this into a leaning corner and then a short steep crack to belay on a small but comfortable ledge. <br/>2) 30m. Traverse left for 5m then up the face following a thin crack and ledges that come up and to the right and into a swallows nest of crumbling granite. <br/>3) 20m. Straight up unstable ground to finish. N.Deka, F.Moon, Dec 80.">The last continuous line on the right of the cliff. The start is gained by walking north from the lighthouse down to the base of the cliffs, and then south. Start above the chasm by stepping left into the crack.
1) 50m. Step left into the crack, straight up this into a leaning corner and then a short steep crack to belay on a small but comfortable ledge.
2) 30m. Traverse left for 5m then up the face following a thin crack and ledges that come up and to the right and into a swallows nest of crumbling granite.
3) 20m. Straight up unstable ground to finish. N.Deka, F.Moon, Dec 80.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="13" length="100m" name="Rotten Plum" new="false"
number=""
stars=""> The first route to be climbed at Cape Tourville. In 1977 Glen and Basil ventured round from the north at sealevel until blocked by the first of about four big zawns. The approach proved to be a pleasant traverse over easy slabs. They climbed a promising line about 50m north of the zawn and started up a ramp on good solid granite. But the second pitch was a nightmare of rotten rock and sand filled cracks. G.Kowalik, C (Basil) Rathbone, 1977.</climb>
<text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">The Quadrangle</text><text
class="text">At the northern end of the main Cape Tourville cliffs is a relatively impassable zawn, and the only climb north of this zawn recorded to date is Rotten Plumb (actually the first route done on the Cape). The North Tourville area is the area of cliffs and boulders north of this zawn, and is accessed differently to the rest of Cape Tourville cliffs (no abseil required).</text><text
class="text"
new="false">Access: From the carpark, head clockwise along the tourist circuit for about 100m then head northeasterly to the cliff edge along vague paths. Follow cliff edge for about 200m north (it is easiest close to the edge) until a descent (50-100m scramble) may be made down a gully. There are several gullies where descent is possible, but early options tend to end badly. The earliest safe option can be located by reference to the Nugget islands: at this point, the two southern most Nuggets should no longer be overlapping from your line of perspective (i.e. water should just be visible separating the left end of the southern most island from the right end of the second most southerly island). When down to the slabs, head south along the base for about 300m until a very big boulder dominates the slab (it is joined to the cliff and is only just passable on the seaward side). The southern face of the boulder is split by a blindingly obvious diagonal crack (small roof at about 5m). This face also forms the northern wall of a small amphitheatre, The Quadrangle. This beautiful amphitheatre and parts of the cliff above have potential for several difficult climbs.</text><climb
extra="" grade="26" guide.action="submit" guide.id="56"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="12m" name="Eidolon"
new="false" number="" stars="***"
value="The diagonal crack. What this line lacks in length it makes up for in aesthetics and difficulty. One of the finest lines around. Some thin finger jamming leads to the roof followed by pumpy layaways with the crux move reaching the lip (a jug). Excellent gear with the following range: 0.7-1.5 Friends for the lower section plus one larger size wire, then smaller wires up to size #4 stopper for the upper section. Number 3 and 4 Friends useful for belay - placements are a few meters back from edge. Hamish Jackson, 29/4/2003 (lead with gear in place).">The diagonal crack. What this line lacks in length it makes up for in aesthetics and difficulty. One of the finest lines around. Some thin finger jamming leads to the roof followed by pumpy layaways with the crux move reaching the lip (a jug). Excellent gear with the following range: 0.7-1.5 Friends for the lower section plus one larger size wire, then smaller wires up to size #4 stopper for the upper section. Number 3 and 4 Friends useful for belay - placements are a few meters back from edge. Hamish Jackson, 29/4/2003 (lead with gear in place).</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="12m" name="Truency" new="false"
number=""
stars="">The right hand end of the east facing wall of the amphitheatre has a small roof at about 2m This climb goes straight up at the rightmost reachable point of the roof. Interesting finger pockets and under-clings to start then some balancy layaways and cranks to finish. Hamish Jackson 29/4/2003 (top-rope). NB: Head-point to be attempted; please do not bolt this route.
</climb><text
class="text" guide.action="submit" guide.id="58" guide.page="0"
guide.type="text" new="false" number="null."
value="Warning: the big flake system on the main cliff above the Eidolon boulder is steeper than it looks and would actually be half decent if it wasn't made of gravel. It has been climbed, but should not be repeated.">Warning: the big flake system on the main cliff above the Eidolon boulder is steeper than it looks and would actually be half decent if it wasn't made of gravel. It has been climbed, but should not be repeated.</text>
<text
class="heading2" guide.action="submit" guide.id="1"
guide.page="0" guide.type="text" new="false"
value="The Nuggets by Mike Thomas">The Nuggets</text><text
class="text" guide.action="submit" guide.id="2" guide.page="0"
guide.type="text" new="false"
value="The quality of rock at White Water Wall is paralleled by the granite forming it's eastern cousin, the Nuggets. By virtue of the fact it never rains at Freycinet and that the islands are exposed directly to the mighty Tasman, conflicting forms of weather frequently occur. One day it can be the tranquil Greek Islands of the Mediterranean, and the next blasted by winds as if off the Southern coast of Argentina. <br/>The only exploring to date seems to have focussed upon the second, innermost island, with the characteristic split on the northern side , which is surrounded by cliffs. <br/>Access is by small boat or by kayak (it is too far to swim and the current is fierce) and the split creates a good sheltered cove. It is easy to clamber up to the base ledge from a kayak exit if the swell is low enough. Day trips are feasible, but remember that you may be forced to spend some time there if the weather closes in and the wind and waves are too scary. There is no water on the island, and all solid waste should be removed. Please be careful when walking on the fragile vegetation and among nesting sea birds- tread lightly, walk quietly. <br/>There are a number of good walls for climbing which have been named for ease of communication. <br/>">The quality of rock at White Water Wall is paralleled by the granite forming it's eastern cousin, the Nuggets. By virtue of the fact it never rains at Freycinet and that the islands are exposed directly to the mighty Tasman, conflicting forms of weather frequently occur. One day it can be the tranquil Greek Islands of the Mediterranean, and the next blasted by winds as if off the Southern coast of Argentina.
The only exploring to date seems to have focussed upon the second, innermost island, with the characteristic split on the northern side, which is surrounded by cliffs.
Access is by small boat or by kayak (it is too far to swim and the current is fierce) and the split creates a good sheltered cove. It is easy to clamber up to the base ledge from a kayak exit if the swell is low enough. Day trips are feasible, but remember that you may be forced to spend some time there if the weather closes in and the wind and waves are too scary. There is no water on the island, and all solid waste should be removed. Please be careful when walking on the fragile vegetation and among nesting sea birds - tread lightly, walk quietly. There are a number of good walls for climbing which have been named for ease of communication.
</text><text
class="heading3" guide.action="submit" guide.id="117"
guide.page="0" guide.type="text" new="false"
value="Base Ledge">Base Ledge</text><text class="text"
guide.action="submit" guide.id="118" guide.page="0"
guide.type="text" new="false"
value="This sheltered ledge on the main pat of the island is half way up from the sea. It is a good access for kayaks being in the cove created by the Citadel that is visible from WWW.">This sheltered ledge on the main part of the island is half way up from the sea. It is a good access for kayaks being in the cove created by the Citadel that is visible from WWW.</text><climb
extra="" grade="14" guide.action="submit" guide.id="119"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m"
name="Amphibolite the Titanium Newt" new="false" number=""
stars=""
value="The big crack in the corner at the base of the ledge. Follow the crack and then go directly to the top. M. Thomas, 1995">The big crack in the corner at the base of the ledge. Follow the crack and then go directly to the top. M. Thomas, 1995</climb><climb
extra="" grade="11" guide.action="submit" guide.id="6"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="13m"
name="Crystallography" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="The best reason for doing this climb is to see the quartz vein containing smoky quartz crystals. Much of the rock is of poor qulaity. Climb the large chimney to the L of ATTN, up the face past the quartz in the RH corner of the chimney, continuing past loose boulders on both sides..... hmmm. T. Jones, 1995.">The best reason for doing this climb is to see the quartz vein containing smoky quartz crystals. Much of the rock is of poor quality. Climb the large chimney to the L of ATTN, up the face past the quartz in the RH corner of the chimney, continuing past loose boulders on both sides... hmmm. T. Jones, 1995.</climb><text
class="heading3" guide.action="submit" guide.id="133"
guide.page="0" guide.type="text" new="false"
value="South East Wall">South East Wall</text><text class="text"
guide.action="submit" guide.id="134" guide.page="0"
guide.type="text" new="false"
value="This wall is on the back of the Citadel and is easy to get to from Base Ledge. Pass around via the Wonderland then over a fat chockstone to the Citadel. From here go south to a sloping ramp where the waves can crash in violently.....">This wall is on the back of the Citadel and is easy to get to from Base Ledge. Pass around via the Wonderland then over a fat chockstone to the Citadel. From here go south to a sloping ramp where the waves can crash in violently.....</text><climb
extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="9"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="27m"
name="King Canute Drives Back the Sea" new="false" number=""
stars=""
value="A classic and varied climb on the south east face of the Citadel. Walk down the sloping ramp around from the chockstone until a sloping crack in a corner is visible. Climb this well-protected crack using the face to a sloping ledge. Up the obvious cracks towards a short off-width vee crack . M. Thomas, 1995.">A classic and varied climb on the south east face of the Citadel. Walk down the sloping ramp around from the chockstone until a sloping crack in a corner is visible. Climb this well-protected crack using the face to a sloping ledge. Up the obvious cracks towards a short off-width vee crack. M. Thomas, 1995.</climb><text
class="heading3" guide.action="submit" guide.id="126"
guide.page="0" guide.type="text" new="false"
value="The Wonderland and Boulderfield Gulch">The Wonderland and Boulderfield Gulch</text><text
class="text" guide.action="submit" guide.id="127" guide.page="0"
guide.type="text" new="false"
value="Simply traverse south from Base Ledge round a thin ledge. To access the gulch, jump onto a boulder at the chockstone or lower down if conditions are wet.">Simply traverse south from Base Ledge round a thin ledge. To access the gulch, jump onto a boulder at the chockstone or lower down if conditions are wet.</text><climb
extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="128"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="23m" name="Ki"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="A great, well-protected climb from the base of the boulder field to the L of the obvious crack-chimney (Crab in the Cracks). Climb up dark rocks to the parallel cracks. Ascend to a ledge on the RH side, then follow the crack and finger pockets until they terminate. Step out L and follow the short crack to a larger ledge. Walk R then climb the last two easy metres to the top. T. Jones, 1995.">A great, well-protected climb from the base of the boulder field to the L of the obvious crack-chimney (Crab in the Cracks). Climb up dark rocks to the parallel cracks. Ascend to a ledge on the RH side, then follow the crack and finger pockets until they terminate. Step out L and follow the short crack to a larger ledge. Walk R then climb the last two easy metres to the top. T. Jones, 1995.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="13" guide.action="submit" guide.id="129"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="12m"
name="Mustn't be Late" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Start to the L of the gully opposite a skull-like rock on the plateform that is level with Base ledge right next to Ki. Go to easy way up a big friendly crack at the R of a block with a rounded corner to a big ledge that runs smoothly up to the plateau. Continue up to a second ledge in a similar fashion then step out R around a boulder at the top. M. Thomas, 1995.">Start to the L of the gully opposite a skull-like rock on the plateform that is level with Base ledge right next to Ki. Go to easy way up a big friendly crack at the R of a block with a rounded corner to a big ledge that runs smoothly up to the plateau. Continue up to a second ledge in a similar fashion then step out R around a boulder at the top. M. Thomas, 1995.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="" guide.action="submit" guide.id="130"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length=""
name="Crabs in the Crack" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Disappointing. Follows the obvoius gully up from the the boulder field gulch. Not recommended.T. Jones, 1995.">Disappointing. Follows the obvoius gully up from the the boulder field gulch. Not recommended. T. Jones, 1995.</climb><text
class="heading3" guide.action="submit" guide.id="131"
guide.page="0" guide.type="text" new="false"
value="The Playground">The Playground</text><text class="text"
guide.action="submit" guide.id="132" guide.page="0"
guide.type="text" new="false"
value="This microcosm is on the eastern side of the Citadel and is only visible from the other islands or out at sea. A wall on the southern side boasts a large curving crack which meets a vertical crack to form a classic teardrop shape. Furhter north there is a loated bulge of granite that creates a big overhang.">This microcosm is on the eastern side of the Citadel and is only visible from the other islands or out at sea. A wall on the southern side boasts a large curving crack which meets a vertical crack to form a classic teardrop shape. Further north there is a bulge of granite that creates a big overhang.</text><climb
extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="76"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="18m" name="Hmmmm?"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="This climb starts off promising and becomes a loose bunch of face choss. Begin just to the L of the overhung section and tend to the L. At the ledge just below the top, go straight up along the manky crystalloid face. T. Jones, 1995.">This climb starts off promising and becomes a loose bunch of face choss. Begin just to the L of the overhung section and tend to the L. At the ledge just below the top, go straight up along the manky crystalloid face. T. Jones, 1995.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="14" guide.action="submit" guide.id="134"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m"
name="Paisley with Stripes" new="false" number="" stars="***"
value="Excellent. The climb goes up the R side of the big teardrop in the obvious very vertical crack. Climb up to the crack junction then step out along the horizontal crack around the arete. Ascend on a "non-steep" face, with a small, fairly unprotected but easy crack just around the corner. M. Thomas 1995.">Excellent. The climb goes up the R side of the big teardrop in the obvious very vertical crack. Climb up to the crack junction then step out along the horizontal crack around the arete. Ascend on a "non-steep" face, with a small, fairly unprotected but easy crack just around the corner. M. Thomas 1995.</climb><text
class="heading3" guide.action="submit" guide.id="135"
guide.page="0" guide.type="text" new="false"
value="The Leaning Siege">The Leaning Siege</text><text
class="text" guide.action="submit" guide.id="136" guide.page="0"
guide.type="text" new="false"
value="This impressive piece of granite protrudes from the sea on the south side of the mainland. A small ledge can be easily down-climbed to in order to access further descent possibilities. On the eastern side, a convenient ledge is simple to abseil to in order to access climbs on that side.">This impressive piece of granite protrudes from the sea on the south side of the mainland. A small ledge can be easily down-climbed to in order to access further descent possibilities. On the eastern side, a convenient ledge is simple to abseil to in order to access climbs on that side.</text><climb
extra="" grade="14" guide.action="submit" guide.id="137"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="24m"
name="Decerebrate Rigidity" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Access - abseil down to the ledge above the half-submerged weed covered ramp/foaming pit of death on the eastern side of the Leaning Siege. Traverse to directly below the the precarious finger and chockstone at the top. Ascend directly to the R side of the finger, using multiple smooth holds. Lastly, tend to the R on a slightly overhung face. To exit, use the Ferrest traverse. M. Thomas, 1995. <br/>">Access - abseil down to the ledge above the half-submerged weed covered ramp/foaming pit of death on the eastern side of the Leaning Siege. Traverse to directly below the the precarious finger and chockstone at the top. Ascend directly to the R side of the finger, using multiple smooth holds. Lastly, tend to the R on a slightly overhung face. To exit, use the Ferrest traverse. M. Thomas, 1995.
</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="138"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m"
name="Guanocerous" new="false" number="" stars="*"
value="Access as for DR. Traverse only about 6 m to a triangular rock. Follow the crack here on the face using the flaring crack. Follow the crack to an obvious narrowing. Slime through this crux to a ledge on the R. Go straight up to a notch and continue R up poorly protected rock to the narrow backbone of the Leaning Siege. Exit via the Ferrest traverse. N.B. A very small wire and large sling were very useful for the last part. T. Jones, 1995.">Access as for DR. Traverse only about 6 m to a triangular rock. Follow the crack here on the face using the flaring crack. Follow the crack to an obvious narrowing. Slime through this crux to a ledge on the R. Go straight up to a notch and continue R up poorly protected rock to the narrow backbone of the Leaning Siege. Exit via the Ferrest traverse. N.B. A very small wire and large sling were very useful for the last part. T. Jones, 1995.</climb><text
class="heading3" guide.action="submit" guide.id="139"
guide.page="0" guide.type="text" new="false"
value="Umbrella Wall">Umbrella Wall</text><text class="text"
guide.action="submit" guide.id="140" guide.page="0"
guide.type="text" new="false"
value="On the western side of the island is a long wall that can be accessed from the top without ropes.">On the western side of the island is a long wall that can be accessed from the top without ropes.</text><climb
extra="" grade="8" guide.action="submit" guide.id="86"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="16m"
name="Mike's Umbrella" new="false" number="" stars="" value="An arbitary route following the driest and least chossy line up the northern side of the Umbrella Wall. T. Jones and M. Thomas, solo, 1995.">An arbitary route following the driest and least chossy line up the northern side of the Umbrella Wall. T. Jones and M. Thomas, solo, 1995.</climb>
</guide>
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