<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> <guide guidestars="*" pagesize="500"><header access="For access/general details, see the section on the Cataract Gorge - Sunny Side." acknowledgement="by Michael Fox, originally published in Craglets." history="" intro="The popular walk up on the north side of The Gorge hosts a few good climbs for those hot sunny days that abound in Launceston. These climbs are described left to right due to the tyrannical nature of the former chief editor of Craglets, i.e from the restaurant downhill to the bridge even though most of you will be walking the other way. So if you start at the end of these descriptions and read back to here it will make more sense. The distances are measured in leisurely steps. If you are taller or shorter or in a hurry then adjust accordingly." name="Cataract Gorge - Shady Side" new="false" rock="Short vertical dolerite buttresses, with a mixture of trad and bolted climbs" sun="Not much sun" walk="5-10 min"/><text class="heading3" new="false" value="The Trap Area">The Trap Area</text><text class="text" new="false" number="null.">These first two climbs are above the track about 160 steps from the sign that says “Cataract Walk”. Just step off the fence and onto the climb. DBB on top.</text><climb extra="" grade="17" length="10m" name="Nymphogranuloma" stars=" * ">The jamb crack 2m to the left of The Trap with a block in the crack at the top. Narkowicz, 1982.</climb><climb extra="4B" grade="22" length="10m" name="The Trap" new="false" number="" stars="*" value="Step off the rails and on to the black face with 4 FH, 70 steps on from the Prince of Darkness abseil point. Ng, 1991.">Step off the rails and on to the black face with 4 FH, 70 steps on from the Prince of Darkness abseil point. Ng, 1991.</climb><text class="text">The shonky looking bolts right of this climb are not a climb, they have been placed by the council to monitor rock movement. They should NOT be clipped for climbing purposes.</text><text class="heading3" new="false" number="null.">Prince of Darkness Area</text><text class="text">70 steps downstream from The trap or 15 steps upstream of the stairs to the lookout is a light pole. Abseil down the sloping ledge beneath this to the platform 15m below</text><climb extra="" grade="24" length="15m" name="King of Pain" stars=" ** ">The upstream most of this trilogy of climbs. Climb the features to a hand crack at mid-height then continue on up the arête. Fox, Tierney, DeCesare, 2001.</climb><climb extra="" grade="21" length="15m" name="Prince of Darkness" stars=" ** ">The climb ascends the blocky crack in the middle of the buttress to a small roof then up a thin crack to the sloping ledge. McMahon, Narkowicz 1982.</climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="15m" name="Queen of Salsa" stars=" *** ">Start 2m right of POD and head up the ramp to the off-width which can be climbed with-out having to resort to any off-width techniques and then up the top face. Fox, Luna, DeCesare, 2001</climb><text class="text" new="false" number="null.">From the bottom of the stairs leading up to the look-out you can look downstream and up the hill to see a tall buttress with 2 cracks on it.</text><climb extra="" grade="25" length="15m" name="Dam It" stars=" ** ">Thin face climbing around the left-hand crack. Chris Shepherd, 1985</climb><climb extra="" grade="23" length="15m" name="Disgorge">The long crack on the right of the main face. Lamb, Narkowicz, 1982</climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="8m" name="The One That Got Away">A short finger crack, not visible from the walkway, on the right of the buttress opening up at the top. McMahon, Smart 1982. 140 steps from the stairs to the lookout are 2 huge pines on the uphill side of the footpath. Coming from Double Dozen Cliff it is also about 140 steps. The next climb is 10m behind pines.</climb><climb extra="" grade="23" length="12m" name="Anopheles">2 eye-bolts to finger crack and pro. Stick clip the first eye-bolt. Looks like it could do with another dose of agent orange. DBB. Fox, Tierney, 1996.</climb><text class="text" new="false" value="Up above this climb is a small buttress with 2 climbs on it. Access via Anopheles or scrambling up on the right.">Up above this climb is a small buttress with 2 climbs on it. Access via Anopheles or scrambling up on the right.</text><climb extra="" grade="17" length="8m" name="Ned">The hand crack on the left hand side. DBB. Kearnes, DeCesare, 2001.</climb><climb extra="" grade="16" length="8m" name="Dirichnum Rectum">The thin crack opening towards the top on the blunt arête 3m right of Ned. DBB. DeCesare, Kearnes, 2001.</climb><text class="heading3" new="false" number="null.">Double Dozen Cliff</text><text class="text">When you reach a large landing with a picnic table and seats then you’ve found the Double Dozen buttress. On the other side of the river is Gabriel Buttress. When the tide is out you can cross over from here. These are some of the best climbs on this side of the gorge</text><climb extra="" grade="17" length="11m" name="Afternoon Delights" stars=" * ">About 25 steps upstream from the main Double Dozen Buttress is a hand crack opening up to off hands at the top. DBB. Smith, Cover, 1980.</climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="11m" name="Garbo">The left hand crack and corner. McMahon, Ian Green, 1973.</climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="11m" name="Double Dozen" stars=" *** ">Boulder problem start to the steep crack then exit out right of the block at the top. Add a grade for the direct finish. DBB. Moorehead, 1981.</climb><climb extra="" grade="24" length="11m" name="No Right Turn" stars=" ** ">Up the thin double cracks on the right above the “booga” graffiti. DBB. Parsons, 1981.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="26" length="10m" name="It’s in the Veins" new="false" number="" stars="**" value="The bolted face 5m right of No Right Turn. DBB. Learmont, 1997.">The bolted face 5m right of No Right Turn. DBB. Learmont, 1997.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="26" length="10m" name="Future World" new="false" number="" stars="" value="The line of bolts up the arete right of It’s in the Veins. DBB Selby, 1998.">The line of bolts up the arete right of It’s in the Veins. DBB Selby, 1998.</climb><climb extra="3B" grade="22" length="10m" name="Pipedreams" new="false" number="" stars="*" value="Walk up the right side of Double Dozen Buttress and climb up the fixed rope to the old pipes. Follow these pipes to your right. All up it’s 30m from Future World. Up pillar past 3 FH to a DBB. Fox, Jones, 2001.">Walk up the right side of Double Dozen Buttress and climb up the fixed rope to the old pipes. Follow these pipes to your right. All up it’s 30m from Future World. Up pillar past 3 FH to a DBB. Fox, Jones, 2001.</climb><text class="text" new="false" number="null.">Another 95 steps upstream from the hut with the funny looking concrete tree trunks is a slab that leads up to a 12m 2 climbs on it. It is also 95 steps downstream from the Double Dozen Buttress The first climb is on the face looking upstream.</text><climb extra="" grade="?" length="9m" name="Project" new="false" number="" stars="">Was a top rope problem at 27/8 before some holds got broken off. Bolted by Nick and possibly an open project now?</climb><climb extra="" grade="24" length="9m" name="Moreheads Corner">Visible from the walk-way it is the left hand crack on the upstream face 4m left of the very thin twin cracks (which are waiting a first ascent). DBB way over the back. Morehead, Dignan 1982.</climb><climb extra="" grade="28" length="12m" name="The Gay Bar?" new="false" number="" stars="**">The arete with 5 fixed hangers 2m right of the very thin twin cracks (which are waiting a first ascent). DBB at top. Unknown 2008.</climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="15" name="Foxes arete" new="false" number="" stars="*">the bolted wide crack and arete at the right hand end of the buttress</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="22" length="10m" name="Road to the Lost City" new="false" number="" stars="**" value="Originally called Pipeline, but known by the above name for many years. It is 15m around the corner from Morehead’s Corner and easy to identify now because the council has put cables over a potentially loose boulder at the top. Climb the left hand crack/corner then traverse right onto the black face past 3 bolts and the macrame. DBB. Ng and Vincent 1992. A direct start has been done at the same grade (for tall people) but doesn’t add much to the climb.">Originally called Pipeline, but known by the above name for many years. It is 15m around the corner from Morehead’s Corner and easy to identify now because the council has put cables over a potentially loose boulder at the top. Climb the left hand crack/corner then traverse right onto the black face past 3 bolts and the macrame. DBB. Ng and Vincent 1992. A direct start has been done at the same grade (for tall people) but doesn’t add much to the climb.</climb><climb new="true"></climb><text class="text" new="false" value="Across the gully on the upstream side of the Road to the Lost City buttress is a single pillar. Access by scrambling up the gully on the left of Moreheads Corner and then heading left just before where the 2 pipes cross over.">Across the gully on the upstream side of the Road to the Lost City buttress is a single pillar. Access by scrambling up the gully on the left of Moreheads Corner and then heading left just before where the 2 pipes cross over.</text><climb extra="Þ" grade="22" length="10m" name="Macu Picu" new="false" number="" stars="**" value="The arete with 2 eye-bolts and wires. DBB. Fox, Tierney, 1996.">The arete with 2 eye-bolts and wires. DBB. Fox, Tierney, 1996.</climb><text class="heading3" new="false" number="null.">The Lost City / Left Kohoutek</text><text class="text">Access - either from the top of Road to the Lost City go 50m uphill and slightly downstream or scramble up the gully on the upstream side of Road to the Lost City, go past the crossed over pipes and then go right to walk along the single pipe for 30m. From here the buttress is visible 40m uphill and slightly downstream. Short climbs but worth a visit if you’re in the area.</text><climb extra="" grade="18" length="8m" name="Rose in the Dust">The off-width looking crack. Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.</climb><climb extra="" grade="21" length="8m" name="Iliocostalis">The crack 2m downstream of Only the Wheel. DBB. Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="23" length="9m" name="Only the Wheel" new="false" number="" stars="**" value="3 bolts up the right hand arete. Ng, Vincent, 1992.">3 bolts up the right hand arete. Ng, Vincent, 1992.</climb><text class="heading3" new="false" number="null.">Right Kohoutek </text><text class="text" new="false" number="null.">Head downstream another 50m from Left Kohoutek staying on the same level and crossing the head of a gully. Alternatively from the hut with the concrete tree trunks head directly up the hill for 60m.</text><climb extra="" grade="24" length="8m" name="In Cahouts" new="false" number="" stars="" value="Climb the fused corner for 2m before moving out to the left arête for another 2m and then back to the crack. Sound contrived, but who knows I haven’t done it. Fisher 1997.">Climb the fused corner for 2m before moving out to the left arête for another 2m and then back to the crack. Sound contrived, but who knows I haven’t done it. Fisher 1997.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="24" length="8m" name="Lazy Mahout" new="false" number="" stars="*" value="The arete right of In Cahouts with 3 FH and a 1 friend at the top. DBB. Fox, DeCesare, 2002.">The arete right of In Cahouts with 3 FH and a 1 friend at the top. DBB. Fox, DeCesare, 2002.</climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="8m" name="Rainy Day Woman">Pleasant crack climbing up the middle of the face. Selby, McMahon 1997.</climb><text class="text" new="false" number="null.">Now back on the tourist track 55 steps upstream from the hut with the fake cement tree trunks is the next climb. It is also 40 steps downstream from the ramp leading to Road to the Lost City.</text><climb extra="" grade="21" length="10m" name="Gold 101">Climb up the easy face to a ledge with a DBB. These are actually to facilitate measuring of rock movement and were placed by council. Nice of them hey! Move right around the arete to a black face with a thin crack up it. Climb this then move left at half height to an easier crack to finish at a DBB. Narkowicz, 1983.</climb><text class="text" new="false" value="From the picnic shelter walk 40 steps downstream to be level with a small block of rock 10m above the track with an off-width (grade 19 if you have to do it) up the right side.">From the picnic shelter walk 40 steps downstream to be level with a small block of rock 10m above the track with an off-width (grade 19 if you have to do it) up the right side.</text><climb extra="" grade="24" length="10m" name="Sanctity" new="false" number="" stars="" value="A natural pro sports route. This route is yet to see an ascent placing gear on lead. Otherwise it’s something of a hassle since you have to rap down to pre-place gear! Climb the face left of the off-width heading left at the top. Narkowicz, 1999.">A natural pro sports route. This route is yet to see an ascent placing gear on lead. Otherwise it’s something of a hassle since you have to rap down to pre-place gear! Climb the face left of the off-width heading left at the top. Narkowicz, 1999.</climb><text class="text" new="false" value="30 steps further downstream is another small pinnacle with an even smaller conifer in front of it. It’s possible to see the shiny hangers of this route from the track in front of Sanctity.">30 steps further downstream is another small pinnacle with an even smaller conifer in front of it. It’s possible to see the shiny hangers of this route from the track in front of Sanctity.</text><climb extra="Þ" grade="23" length="9m" name="History Maker" new="false" number="" stars="**" value="Great moves up past 4 FH to a DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.">Great moves up past 4 FH to a DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><text class="text" new="false" number="null.">If you feel like a bit of a scrub bash you can now head up the footpads 35 steps upstream from the New Move that lead to small buttress above the arêtes. Discovered by Narkowicz just after McMahon published the Cataract guide they destroyed once and for all the notion of a definitive guide book.</text><climb extra="" grade="22" length="8m" name="Time for an Update">The finger crack up the left hand side of the buttress. Narkowicz, 2000.</climb><climb extra="" grade="24" length="8m" name="Another Poxy Route for the Next Edition">The very thin crack left of the chimney. Narkowicz, 2000.</climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="8m" name="Stuff the Guidebook">Up the prow of the buttress. Narkowicz, 2000.</climb><climb extra="" grade="21" length="8m" name="One for the Appendix">Right of STG and left of the chimney. Narkowicz, 2000.</climb><text class="heading3" new="false" value="New Move">New Move</text><text class="text" new="false" value="Back down on the tourist track 115 steps on from History Maker you will reach a series of 3 pillars with bolted climbs going up the arêtes of each.">Back down on the tourist track 115 steps on from History Maker you will reach a series of 3 pillars with bolted climbs going up the arêtes of each.</text><climb extra="" grade="25" length="9m" name="Schizo">The same pillar as The New Move just sticking to the upstream face. Contrived but fun and the tourists won’t know the difference. 2 FH to the same DBB as The New Move. Fox, Tiz, 2002.</climb><climb extra="2B" grade="20" length="9m" name="Revival Arete /Telecum /The New Move" new="false" number="" stars="***" value="Call it what you will just do it! 2 eye-bolts to a DBB. Narkowicz (solo), back in the Jurassic era.">Call it what you will just do it! 2 eye-bolts to a DBB. Narkowicz (solo), back in the Jurassic era.</climb><climb extra="2B" grade="23" length="7m" name="Prohibitionist" new="false" number="" stars="*" value="The middle arete. 2 eye-bolts and a DBB. Fisher, 1996.">The middle arete. 2 eye-bolts and a DBB. Fisher, 1996.</climb><climb extra="2B" grade="27" length="9m" name="No Dams" new="false" number="" stars="**" value="The downstream arete. 2 eye-bolts and a DBB. Chris Shepherd, 1985.">The downstream arete. 2 eye-bolts and a DBB. Chris Shepherd, 1985.</climb><text class="text" new="false" number="null.">15 steps past the last of the arêtes is Ivy Crack</text><climb extra="" grade="23" length="10m" name="Ivy Crack">A thin crack that opens up to hand crack towards the top. It’s climbability is often threatened by the encroachment of ivy. People have been threatening to clean it out for years. You could be the one. Fantini, Smith, 1980.</climb><text class="text" new="false" number="null.">10 steps downstream from Ivy Crack is a project up the bolted corner. Around the corner from this is the next climb.</text><climb extra="Þ" grade="17" length="15m" name="Six Agile Men" new="false" number="" stars="***" value="Climb the corner or boulder up the arête 10 steps from FTA. Continue up the slab past a tree branch and 3 bolts to a DBB. Fox and 5 agile men, 2001.">Climb the corner or boulder up the arête 10 steps from FTA. Continue up the slab past a tree branch and 3 bolts to a DBB. Fox and 5 agile men, 2001.</climb><text class="text" new="false" value="Continue downstream for another 10 steps.">Continue downstream for another 10 steps.</text><climb extra="Þ" grade="19" length="7m" name="Fighting the Authorities" new="false" number="" stars="" value="Up past 2 FH on the left of the arete. Same DBB as TMMT. Selby, 1999.">Up past 2 FH on the left of the arete. Same DBB as TMMT. Selby, 1999.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="27" length="7m" name="Spunky Monkey" new="false" number="" stars="" value="Contrived but worthwhile. Climbs the face and arete around the corner from Fighting the Authorities without useing any holds on the Fighting the Authorities face. the Same DBB as TMMT. M Johnston, 2009.">Contrived but worthwhile. Climbs the face and arete around the corner from Fighting the Authorities without useing any holds on the Fighting the Authorities face. the Same DBB as TMMT. M Johnston, 2009.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="25" length="9m" name="The Magical Mousey Tour" new="false" number="" stars="" value="Around the arête from FTA or 20 steps upstream from POTR. 2FH. Starts in the corner, under the roof. Up to clip the first bolt, then out left onto the face and up. DBB. Learmont, 1999.">Around the arête from FTA or 20 steps upstream from POTR. 2FH. Starts in the corner, under the roof. Up to clip the first bolt, then out left onto the face and up. DBB. Learmont, 1999.</climb><climb extra="" grade="23" length="10m" name="Path of the Righteous">More like “path of the idiotic”. When concerns were raised about the poor bolting quality (protruding carrots and lack of lower offs) on this climb the first ascentionist saw fit to hack them off but not replace them with something better. If you really want to solo it (or better yet, if an altruistic individual retro-bolts it) the route starts 15 steps from FTA on an face left of a small roof around the arete from Heckle. Narkowicz, 1999.</climb><climb extra="" grade="15" length="10m" name="Heckle">The off-width that hits you in the face as you walk from the toll gate. 155 steps from the start of the bottom end of the track. For those interested in history McMahon thinks this may have been the first climb done in the Gorge. DBB. McMahon and McHugh, 1972.</climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Elphin">The corner 3m right of Heckle. McMahon and a crow-eater, 1973.</climb><text class="heading2" new="false" number="null.">Above the Suspension Bridge</text><text class="text">Access: See map. Council has also very nicely placed distance markers on the track starting at the Suspension bridge. These make handy guides to the climbs.</text><text class="heading3" new="false" number="null.">Ice Scream Buttress</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="suspension bridge sketch map.png" width=""/><text class="text" new="false" number="null.">Access: From the first bridge on the Duck Reach track stand and look at the cliff. Straight in front of you is an orange and black face with two FH. This is Ice Cream. Above this and slightly downstream is a large block with 3 FH this is Shiloh. The face on your immediate left is Zerubbabel and Spooksville.</text><climb extra="3B" grade="23" length="8m" name="Shiloh" new="false" number="" stars="" value="Climb on the left of the arête past three FH. DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.">Climb on the left of the arête past three FH. DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="10m" name="Zerubbabel">Climb the blank face to the horizontal break, which is only 16 if you have the reach, then continue up. Narkowicz, McMahon, 2000.</climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="10m" name="Spooksville">The next route right up the stepped scoop. Originally done with a piton runner. Narkowicz, Bennet, McMahon, 2001.</climb><climb extra="2B" grade="19" length="15m" name="Ice Cream" new="false" number="" stars="**" value="Cause it tastes so good. By which ever way appeals to you climb on to the grassy ledge beneath the black and orange face with 2 bolts. Climb this to crack and then up to the DBB.">Cause it tastes so good. By which ever way appeals to you climb on to the grassy ledge beneath the black and orange face with 2 bolts. Climb this to crack and then up to the DBB.</climb><text class="text">There are obviously a few climbs possible in the amphitheatre right of Ice Cream. This next climb is on the pillar on the right and above the amphitheatre. Access either by climbing up to it or scrambling up from the upstream end of the bridge.</text><climb extra="" grade="18" length="8m" name="Not By Might">Climb the face and thin crack protected by small wires. Requires a degree of commitment so may be beyond most blokes. Worth doing so you can get to the next two climbs which are must do’s if you have an interest in the obscure. Narkowicz, McMahon, 2000.</climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="5m" name="Treasures in Heaven">20m up hill from Not By Might is a pinnacle with one bolt. Take a wire as well. Narkowicz 2001.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="22" length="5m" name="Disproportionate Destruction" new="false" number="" stars="" value="20 m further up hill and upstream from Treasures in Heaven is another little boulder with 2 bolts. Use your ingenuity for the belay. Narkowicz 2001.">20 m further up hill and upstream from Treasures in Heaven is another little boulder with 2 bolts. Use your ingenuity for the belay. Narkowicz 2001.</climb><text class="text" new="false" value="The 50 m of track from marker 4 contains some excellent climbing combined with easy access. A Prophet’s Reward is visible from the track just before you get to marker 4. The crack and off-width on the left may look appealing but don’t be mislead. Climb the bolts to the right instead. Best access is by scrambling up the track just past the marker.">The 50 m of track from marker 4 contains some excellent climbing combined with easy access. A Prophet’s Reward is visible from the track just before you get to marker 4. The crack and off-width on the left may look appealing but don’t be mislead. Climb the bolts to the right instead. Best access is by scrambling up the track just past the marker.</text><climb extra="4B" grade="23" length="9m" name="A Prophets Reward" new="false" number="" stars="*" value="The only reward you’ll get here is a good pump. Excellent climbing just beware of knocking anything down on to the tourist track and the unsuspecting public. Climb up past 4 FH to a DBB. Narkowicz 2001.">The only reward you’ll get here is a good pump. Excellent climbing just beware of knocking anything down on to the tourist track and the unsuspecting public. Climb up past 4 FH to a DBB. Narkowicz 2001.</climb><text class="heading3" new="false" number="null.">Allodynia Buttress</text><text class="text" new="false" number="null.">On the upstream end of the wooden bridge just after marker 4 is a large buttress. Access by climbing down off the bridge or walking across the gully from the downstream end of the bridge.</text><climb extra="3B" grade="24" length="10m" name="Supratentorial" new="false" number="" stars="**" value="Up arete past 2 U-bolts to horizontal break (1/2 friend) then up thin crack past another U-bolt to DBB. Worth doing at 21 by pulling on the first bolt. Fox, Kearnes, 2002.">Up arete past 2 U-bolts to horizontal break (1/2 friend) then up thin crack past another U-bolt to DBB. Worth doing at 21 by pulling on the first bolt. Fox, Kearnes, 2002.</climb><climb extra="5B" grade="22" length="12m" name="Allodynia" new="false" number="" stars="**" value="Climb up the face past the two eye-bolts to the horizontal break and the up the thin crack passing 2 more eye bolts. Keep going over the bulge past a U bolt to a DBB. Fox, Kearnes, 1996.">Climb up the face past the two eye-bolts to the horizontal break and the up the thin crack passing 2 more eye bolts. Keep going over the bulge past a U bolt to a DBB. Fox, Kearnes, 1996.</climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="12m" name="Aldente">Step off the bridge onto the large hand crack and corner 2m right of Allodynia, or if you really must, go all the way to bottom to start.</climb><text class="heading3" new="false" number="null.">Big Blouse Buttress</text><text class="text">Access: from the top of the stairs after Allodynia step over the fence and walk over to the she-oaks hanging over the cliff. There is a DBB which raps straight over Big Norm’s Blouse.</text><climb extra="4B" grade="23/24" length="10m" name="Victim of Circus Pants" new="false" number="" stars="***" value="Superb, pumpy climbing up the face from the ledge on the left of Big Norm’s Blouse. Climb the crack on the right of the face then clip the first U-bolt and continue left past another 3 U-bolts to a DBB. DeCesare, Fox, 2002.">Superb, pumpy climbing up the face from the ledge on the left of Big Norm’s Blouse. Climb the crack on the right of the face then clip the first U-bolt and continue left past another 3 U-bolts to a DBB. DeCesare, Fox, 2002.</climb><climb extra="3B" grade="20" length="15m" name="Big Norm’s Blouse" new="false" number="" stars="*" value="Although it’s tempting to only rap to the ledge, and climb the face past 3 FH, you actually get better value if you go all the way to the ground and wack some gear into the crack at the bottom. Selby, 1999.">Although it’s tempting to only rap to the ledge, and climb the face past 3 FH, you actually get better value if you go all the way to the ground and wack some gear into the crack at the bottom. Selby, 1999.</climb><climb extra="" grade="15" length="15m" name="Lady Midnight’s Daughter" stars=" * ">The corner 2m to the right of Norm’s Blouse which goes up to a flake/off-width. Actually climbs very nicely.</climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="8m" name="Little Gerry’s Knickers">Climb the twin cracks 4m right of Lady Midnight’s Daughter to the ledge then step right at the FH and over the top.</climb><climb extra="4B" grade="25" length="7m" name="Ground Zero" new="false" number="" stars="*" value="Not exactly clip or die with 4 FH and a DBB but good and powerful. Continue straight up the arete above Little Gerry’s Knickers. Narkowicz, 2001.">Not exactly clip or die with 4 FH and a DBB but good and powerful. Continue straight up the arete above Little Gerry’s Knickers. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><text class="text">Across the river (cross on weir) and down stream about 50m are two more climbs.</text><climb extra="" grade="23" length="17m" name="Root and Kill" stars=" ** ">Look for a flaring crack that blanks out after about five meters, spot the bolt above this and your there. The crack to the bolt, then right to gear, back left to another bolt then up past bulge to DBB. Bissett, Tierney, 1997.</climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="17m" name="Max the Killer Kelpie" stars=" * ">Just right of R&K is a broken looking face. Climb this to a slot, then over the bulge to same DBB. Tierney, Bissett, 1997.</climb><text class="text">The next two climbs are above Allodynia Buttress and best accessed by scrambling up the slope 10m past the top of the stairs after Allodynia.</text><climb extra="2B" grade="21" length="6m" name="Fat Alex" new="false" number="" stars="**" value="Another exercise in curiousity value. Visible from the track as pinnacle on the skyline 40m above Allodynia Buttress. 2 FH, the first can be tricky to reach. Single bolt belay on top. Narkowicz, 2001.">Another exercise in curiousity value. Visible from the track as pinnacle on the skyline 40m above Allodynia Buttress. 2 FH, the first can be tricky to reach. Single bolt belay on top. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climb extra="" grade="24" length="8m" name="Glory and Power">From the top of the stairs an orange buttress with a FH on the face is visible 40 m uphill and slightly upstream. Climb the crack up to the first FH then up to the horizontal break (1.5 cam) then move left to the 2nd FH. DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climb extra="" grade="21" length="8m" name="Glory With-out Power" stars=" * ">From the second horizontal break of Gloey and Power move right and continue up past a FH. Less contrived than GAP especially if you don’t have the reach for the 2nd bolt. Fox, DeCesare, Bissett, 2002.</climb><climb extra="4B" grade="23" length="10m" name="Finger Frolic" new="false" number="" stars="" value="Line of four left trending eye-bolts visible 10m up the hill when standing at marker 5. Johnson, Sam, 1996.">Line of four left trending eye-bolts visible 10m up the hill when standing at marker 5. Johnson, Sam, 1996.</climb><climb extra="3B" grade="19" length="12m" name="White Water Arete" new="false" number="" stars="**" value="Excellent climbing and a great discovery by young Alex. At marker 5 turn and look downstream at the river. You will see 3 FH on the edge of a pinnacle 20m away. Scramble down to the base then climb up past 3 FH and a 3 cam. DBB. Wilson, 2001.">Excellent climbing and a great discovery by young Alex. At marker 5 turn and look downstream at the river. You will see 3 FH on the edge of a pinnacle 20m away. Scramble down to the base then climb up past 3 FH and a 3 cam. DBB. Wilson, 2001.</climb><climb extra="3B" grade="24" length="8m" name="Max Steel" new="false" number="" stars="" value="30m past marker 5 if look up between the boulders you will see an orange face with 3 FH on it. Best access is to scramble up 10m back. DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.">30m past marker 5 if look up between the boulders you will see an orange face with 3 FH on it. Best access is to scramble up 10m back. DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climb extra="3B" grade="23" length="7m" name="Howard’s Shield" new="false" number="" stars="" value="Sound’s like some kind of IUD. 150m past marker 6 there is a lump of rock very close to the track. On the right side is 3 FH. The first FH can be clipped by climbing the ledge on the left. Heck so can the second. Worth doing if you’re there. DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.">Sound’s like some kind of IUD. 150m past marker 6 there is a lump of rock very close to the track. On the right side is 3 FH. The first FH can be clipped by climbing the ledge on the left. Heck so can the second. Worth doing if you’re there. DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climb extra="" grade="24" length="9m" name="Day of Infamy">At marker 9 head up hill for 40m. The face with 1 FH is just visible from the track. Climb past FH to thin crack. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><text class="heading3" new="false" number="null.">The Gallows</text><text class="text">Access: 50m past marker 10, just before the track steepens to go up the switch back, jump over the fence and go down to the river. From here walk upstream for 100m. Hangman’s Noose is the very obvious prow.</text><climb extra="" grade="18" length=" " name="Driller Killer" new="false" number="" stars="">Face on left of cliff. Gerry Narkowicz, Mick Ling, 3/12/1983.</climb><climb extra="4B" grade="26" length="12m" name="Dead on Arrival" new="false" number="" stars="***">Up over the roof past 4 FH being careful not to impale yourself on the 3rd one. DBB way over the back. Matthew Mann, 2002.</climb><climb extra="4B" grade="23" length="12m" name="Sixty Metre Zoom Lense" new="false" number="" stars="">Either traverse in from the left or the right or go straight up it the river is down. The face with 4 FH 3m right of Hangman’s Noose, meeting it at the same DBB. Narkowicz, 2002.</climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="14m" name="One False Move and the Lights Go Out" new="false" number="" stars="">Up the blocky chimney and then up the left hand crack. Mick Ling et al 1983.</climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="14m" name="The Gallows" new="false" number="" stars="**">Same start as Reprieve but take the right hand finger crack. Narkowicz 1984.</climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="12m" name="Waiting to be Blown Away" new="false" number="" stars="">The hand crack 3m right of The Gallows. Narkowicz 1983.</climb><climb extra="4B" grade="23" guide.action="submit" guide.id="136" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="" name="Fridge Lifting 101" new="false" number="" stars="" value="Arete/Pillar on the far RH side of the buttress just right of Waiting to be Blown Away. Classic arête climbing with a couple of "Fridge Lifting" moves in the middle. At the fourth bolt there is the option of moving right and turning the arête into a layback. Optional wire for the last move over the top. Rap Chains at the top. Ian Ferrier 13/11/07.">Arete/Pillar on the far RH side of the buttress just right of Waiting to be Blown Away. Classic arête climbing with a couple of "Fridge Lifting" moves in the middle. At the fourth bolt there is the option of moving right and turning the arête into a layback. Optional wire for the last move over the top. Rap Chains at the top. Ian Ferrier 13/11/07.</climb><text class="heading3" new="false" number="null.">Second Basin Terrace</text><text class="text">10m downstream from marker 14. Jump over the fence and you should see some DBB on the edge of the tier 2m below. Rap off these to the ledge 10m below.</text><climb extra="" grade="16" length="8m" name="Utterly Meaningless">From the main ledge go left on to the grassy ledge and then climb the thin corner. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climb extra="3B" grade="22" length="8m" name="Ecclesiastes" new="false" number="" stars="**" value="Climb the sharp arete with 3 FH to the DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.">Climb the sharp arete with 3 FH to the DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="24" length="10m" name="Fear God and His Commandments" new="false" number="" stars="**" value="Excellent climbing up the bolted corner then traverse right to finish up the overlap and crack passing more iron mongery and a fixed wire. Narkowicz, 2001.">Excellent climbing up the bolted corner then traverse right to finish up the overlap and crack passing more iron mongery and a fixed wire. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climb extra="4B" grade="24" length="10m" name="Remember Your Creator" new="false" number="" stars="***" value="Improbable climbing up the blunt arete past 4 FH. Worth pre-clipping the first one. Hard to avoid moving right in places but worthwhile if you can. Narkowicz, 2001.">Improbable climbing up the blunt arete past 4 FH. Worth pre-clipping the first one. Hard to avoid moving right in places but worthwhile if you can. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="9m" name="Bonfire of the Vanities">The thin seam up to the crack 2m right of RYC. Fisher, 2001.</climb><text class="heading3" new="false" number="null.">The Black Face</text><text class="text">Lots of ways to get to this face which has got some of the longest and most enjoyable climbs in the South Esk. The quickest way is to park at Duck Reach and walk back down the river on the track till you get to marker 15. 60 steps down river from there you should see a tree with a chain around it (provided some well meaning idiot hasn’t removed it). Alternatively you can walk up from the First Basin and 60 steps past marker 14 see the same tree. Or if you want to be different you can walk in from the Denison Grove car park. This has the advantage of taking you past the Retirement Village cliff. Abseil from the tree to the base of the cliff which is 35m. There are 2 rap stations on the ledge 10m down if you don’t have an extra rope.</text><climb extra="" grade="19" length="25m" name="Cop That To The Max" stars=" ** ">If you rapped in from the downstream rap station you would have passed directly over this climb. Scramble up slab to broken crack then move left to slab. Up past FH to off-finger crack in the corner and up to DBB. Scramble up right on grassy ledges then climb the crack which leads back to the rap tree. Hyland, Tristram, 2001.</climb><climb extra="" grade="21" length="25m" name="Rampaging Roy">The same start and the same finish as CTTTM. Up slab to broken crack but then blast straight up thin twin cracks to join CTTTM at the off-finger crack. DeCesare, Fox, 2002.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="20" length="25m" name="H.G. Nelson Memorial Route" new="false" number="" stars="***" value="Once again start up the slab as for Cop that to the Max but continue right to the thin corner with 5 FH. Fox, DeCesare, Tiz, 2002.">Once again start up the slab as for Cop that to the Max but continue right to the thin corner with 5 FH. Fox, DeCesare, Tiz, 2002.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="23" length="23m" name="Club Buggery" new="false" number="" stars="**" value="Start 3m to the right of Cop that to the Max. Up downstream facing corner past 2 FH then continue up broken crack system past 5 more FH to DBB. Fox, DeCesare, Tiz, 2002.">Start 3m to the right of Cop that to the Max. Up downstream facing corner past 2 FH then continue up broken crack system past 5 more FH to DBB. Fox, DeCesare, Tiz, 2002.</climb><text class="heading3" new="false" number="null.">Retirement Village</text><text class="text">From the carpark at the top of Denison Grove walk down the path to the Duck Reach track. After about 200m you should see a big cairn on your right. Head across to this and then continue down to the pipeline. Walk along this for 20m and you will be at the top of the Retirement Village.</text><climb extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Dementia" stars=" * ">The obvious off-width with a hidden finger crack on the inside. Luckily no fist jamming is required. Up this to the ledge and then continue up thin crack and face to DBB.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="18" length="10m" name="Senescence" new="false" number="" stars="**" value="The face 2m right of Dementia. Up past 3 FH and some cams to a DBB. Fox, DeCesare and Nichols, 2002.">The face 2m right of Dementia. Up past 3 FH and some cams to a DBB. Fox, DeCesare and Nichols, 2002.</climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="7m" name="Ungraceful Retirement">The hand crack to the ledge and DBB</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="27" length="11m" name="Project" new="false" number="" stars="" value="Up steep face then on to slab above. 3 U-bolts to a DBB.">Up steep face then on to slab above. 3 U-bolts to a DBB.</climb></guide> |