<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide guidestars="**" pagesize="500">
<header
access="For access/general details, see the section on the Cataract Gorge - Sunny Side. Drive from town to Corin Street and then walk down to the Power House Museum or walk for 20 minutes upstream from the First Basin to this fantastic area. If you have a look at the map you'll see that there are crags that are marked that are not described in this guide. It's not because there aren't any climbs on them. They could well be fantastic. It's just that I don't know anything about them. So if you feel like a bit of an adventure head on up or check out Gerry's Guide to the South Esk."
acknowledgement="by Michael Fox, originally published in Craglets."
history="" intro="" name="Duck Reach" new="false"
rock="Vertical dolerite buttresses, up to 25m high"
sun="Afternoon sun" walk="5-20 mins"/>
<image new="false"
noPrint="false" number="null."
src="launceston south esk detail map.png" width=""/><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Sewerage Buttress</text><text class="text"
new="false"
number="null.">Access - The first buttress that you come to 50m 3 levels each about 10m high.</text><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="10m"
name="Scutch">The thin crack on the bottom level on the right. McMahon, Johnson, 1995.</climb><text
class="text">The next two climbs are on the middle level.</text><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="10m"
name="Sinistra">On the downstream side is a small roof with a single eye-bolt beneath it. Up this to the crack above. McMahon, Johnson, 1995.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="14" length="8m"
name="Up Your Cloaca">The slightly off-width corner 5m right of Sinistra. Johnson, McMahon, 1995.</climb><text
class="text">The third tier has another two climbs on it.</text><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="12m" name="Arson" new="false"
number=""
stars="">The left hand crack and corner. Selby, McMahon, 1995.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="12m" name="Libido"
stars=" * ">Two bolts up the right hand face to the thin crack. The huge block on the top at the left is loose so watch out! McMahon, Johnson, 1995.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="14m"
name="Sex on a Stick">The off-width/chimney 3m right of Libido. McMahon (solo), 198?.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Bouzareah Buttress</text><text
class="text">Access - best reached by following the footpad found at the upstream end of the car park down and across gully.</text><climb
extra="2B" grade="20" length="10m" name="Break On Through"
new="false" number="" stars="*"
value="The arete with 2 eye-bolts. Johnson, McMahon, 1995.">The arete with 2 eye-bolts. Johnson, McMahon, 1995.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="10m"
name="Bouzareah">The thin crack round the corner from Break On Through. Up to horizontal break then up the left trending diagonal to join the previous climb. McMahon, Johnson, 1995.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Skidrow Buttress</text><text
class="text">Access - walk 100m up from the bridge to the first major buttress.</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
src="duck reach - sawsea.png" width="500"></image><climb
extra="5B" grade="25" length="12m" name="Powerhouse Arete"
new="false" number="" stars="***"
value="The left hand arete with 4 or 5 eye-bolts. Fisher, Johnson, 1996.">The left hand arete with 4 or 5 eye-bolts. Fisher, Johnson, 1996.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="12" length=" " name="Chimney" new="false"
number="" stars="">Chimney R of Powerhouse.</climb><climb
extra="3B" grade="23" length="12m" name="The Joy of Specs"
new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="3 eye-bolts to the crack. Fisher, Johnson, 1996.">3 eye-bolts to the crack. Fisher, Johnson, 1996.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length=" " name="Prison to Praise"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Start R of Joy of Specs at block. Climb crack, then left to join Joy. Narkowicz 1985.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length=" 10m" name="Sawsea" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Offwidth. McMahon, Schmidt, 1973.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="11" length="10m" name="Sitting Bull" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Bridge to hand crack. McMahon, Schmidt, 1973.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="10m" name="First Disadvantage"
new="false" number=""
stars="">The off-width crack. McMahon, Wells, 1989</climb><text
extra="" grade="20" length="10m" name="First Disadvantage"
new="false" number=""
stars="">The off-width crack. McMahon, Wells, 1989</climb><text
class="text">The next two climbs start on the lower tier.</text><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="8m"
name="Short And Sweet">Thin crack splitting the face with a rusty old piton buried deep in the crack at about 2/3 height.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="Skidrow" new="false"
number=""
stars="">The crack on the right of Short and Sweet which makes a nice route by continuing up to the main wall and then traversing right 3m on the horizontal break to join the widening crack past the blackberry.</climb><climb
extra="Þ" grade="22" length="20m" name="Deathrow" new="false"
number="" stars="***"
value="Starting around the corner from these routes on a small platform go up the thin twin cracks to the slab and then up to the peapod. Up the crack system above this to 2 eye-bolts and then up to DBB. Parsons, 1980's. A commiting direct finish can be done at 24.">Starting around the corner from these routes on a small platform go up the thin twin cracks to the slab and then up to the peapod. Up the crack system above this to 2 eye-bolts and then up to DBB. Parsons, 1980's. A commiting direct finish can be done at 24. </climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">John of Gaunt Buttress</text><climb extra=""
grade="15" length="10m" name="Soho Crack" new="false" number=""
stars="">Upstream 40m from the last buttress is a hand crack that goes up to the next tier.The next climbs are on this tier. McMahon 1973.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="12m"
name="The Number of the Beast#">The obvious hand crack on the left.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="12m" name="Two Good Hooters"
new="false" number=""
stars="">About 7m Left of Dagenham are two climbs with a U-bolt in them. This is the left most. Up past bolts, then tricky mantle to gain flake. Head left around the flake on gear. DBB, Bissett, Tierney, 1997.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="12m"
name="Don't Step on the Bananas"
stars=" ** ">The climb right of TGH. You can stick clip the bolt, although the first ascensionist didn't. Up to flake, then on to top. DBB. Tierney, Bisset, 1997.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="12m" name="Dagenham Smile"
new="false" number=""
stars="**">Thin crack and face climb 2m left of the off-width crack which runs the whole height of the cliff. McMahon 1996.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="11" length=" " name="John of Gaunt" new="false"
number=""
stars="">The big wide corner. McMahon 1973.</climb><text
class="text">The next section of cliff is broken in to four distinct levels. There are many natural lines on this area a lot of which have been climbed, once. Feel free to repeat them but take your secateurs and shovel.</text><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Traffic Fine Buttress</text><text class="text"
new="false"
number="null.">The next buttress upstream with well travelled and more continuous climbs. There is a DBB belay at the top of the next 3 routes.</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
src="duck reach - traffic.png" width="500"></image><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="20m" name="No Parking" new="false"
number=""
stars="***">Bridge up the chimney formed by this buttress and the bottom tier of the last one and then step right on to the large block. Climb the finger crack to the overlap and then continue up the hand crack above. DBB.</climb><climb
extra="Þ" grade="23" length="20m" name="No Standing" new="false"
number="" stars="**"
value="Various extensions have been added to this climb. As it now stands it starts beneath the eye-bolt and avoiding the large block on the left continues up past three carrots to the arete and thin crack. One of the best climbs at the grade. Ng and Vincent, 1990.">Various extensions have been added to this climb. As it now stands it starts beneath the eye-bolt and avoiding the large block on the left continues up past three carrots to the arete and thin crack. One of the best climbs at the grade. Ng and Vincent, 1990.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="20m" name="Well Then Bruvvers"
new="false" number=""
stars="**">Start the climb 20m right of No Standing climb to the terrace at one-quarter height and then take the left hand jam crack to the top. DBB. Newell 1972.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length=" " name="Five Bells" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Chimney / crack, right up to the top of the summit boulder. Joe Friend 1975.</climb><climb
extra="4B" grade="28" length="15m" name="Insh Allah" new="false"
number="" stars="*"
value="Climb the blunt arete left of Vamp past 4 FH to a DBB. Fisher, 2001.">Climb the blunt arete left of Vamp past 4 FH to a DBB. Fisher, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="35m"
name="Vamp">Starts 20m up stream and around the corner from Free Parking. Climb the off hand width crack and corner to the tree. DBB. Then continue up the fist crack and then on to the pillar on top of the cliff.</climb><text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">The next 2 climbs finish at the same DBB.</text><climb
extra="3B" grade="23" length="23m" name="Sign of the Times"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="5m right of Vamp is a black face with 3 carrot bolts. Danny Ng, 1989.">5m right of Vamp is a black face with 3 carrot bolts. Danny Ng, 1989.</climb><text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">On the blunt arete just right of SOTT is an unfinished climb with 2 carrots in it.</text><climb
extra="Þ" grade="24" length="23m" name="Orient Express"
new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="The climb with 4 carrots (which are difficult to clip if you don't have the right genetic predisposition) and a 2 or 2 1/2 friend. Danny Ng, 1989.">The climb with 4 carrots (which are difficult to clip if you don't have the right genetic predisposition) and a 2 or 2 1/2 friend. Danny Ng, 1989.</climb><text
class="text" new="false"
value="The next 2 climbs start by scrambling up 20m upstream of the last climb to the next tier beneath where a "cake slice" of rock has come away.">The next 2 climbs start by scrambling up 20m upstream of the last climb to the next tier beneath where a "cake slice" of rock has come away.</text><climb
extra="" grade="25" length="20m" name="Parsons Piece"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Climb the crack beneath the roof, yes there is a genuine roof in Launceston, and then take the left hand crack out past the piton to the thin crack and face above. Parsons, Narkowicz.
The crack going straight through the roof hasn't yet been done yet to my knowledge though it could well have been climbed by a naked Tibetan monk while on an astral journey to Tasmania.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="20m" name="Cake Slice" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Climb up where the slice of cake was. Smart, McMahon, 1979.</climb><text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">10m up stream from the last climbs is a large block behind which are two cracks. DBB on top of Fantissimo.</text><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="15m" name="Fantissimo" new="false"
number=""
stars="">The left hand hand-crack. Fantini 1980.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="15m" name="Rags of Comfort"
new="false" number=""
stars="">You guessed it, the right hand crack. McMahon 1973.</climb><text
class="text">The tiers above the last two climbs may have some worthwhile climbs but I haven't done them.</text><climb
extra="8B" grade="26/27" length="25m" name="Seize the Day"
new="false" number=""
stars="***">Start by climbing Long Knife and then at the level of the 2nd FH traverse out to the thin crack in the middle of the face. Climb up past another 6 FH to the rap chains. Parsons, 1980's. The direct start with 1 FH has been done at about grade 27 by Al Williams.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="14" length="25m" name="Long Knife" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">The surprisingly delightful and enjoyable chimney.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="18m" name="To the Crux and Beyond"
new="false" number="" stars="*"
value="On the front of the block that forms the Long Knife chimney is an off-width. Lewis, Closs, 1973.">On the front of the block that forms the Long Knife chimney is an off-width. DBB. Lewis, Closs, 1973.</climb><text
class="text">The next two climbs are 40m past the end of the major buttress and are very short even for the vertically challenged.</text><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="6m"
name="Free Will">Hand crack to off-width. McMahon, Selby, 1996.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="6m"
name="Out of Sight, Out of Mind">Amen. The thin crack on the right. Selby, McMahon, 1996.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Back in Black Buttress</text><text
class="text">100m past the last climbs this small buttress is set back 50m from the river but worth the scramble up to it.</text><climb
extra="" grade="10" length="8m"
name="Possum Run">The left most line, a worthwhile descent route.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="26" length="8m"
name="A Long Way To The Top">The corner right of Possum Run with one FH. Looks like a corner but climbs like an off-width. A great climb to put your gym junkie mates on and watch them burn rubber and finger tips. Narkowicz, 2002.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="8m" name="Back in Black"
stars=" ** ">The thin crack line running up the face 5m right of Possum Run. McMahon, Selby, 1996.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="8m"
name="Highway to Hell">The thin crack around the corner from Back in Black. Narkowicz, Ling, Deka, Smith, McMahon.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="6m"
name="TNT">The dual crack system in the corner. Selby, Wardlow, Fox, Nichols, 1996.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Nebraska Buttress</text><text
class="text">The next buttress is another 100m upstream almost opposite Pubic Flash.</text><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Dancing With Maria"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Climb up on to ledge and then up crack and slightly overhanging corner. McMahon 1983.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="New Jersey Turnpike"
new="false" number=""
stars="**">Nice hand jamming. McMahon 1983.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="10m" name="County Line" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">Delicate face climbing up a thin crack line in the corner. Quite excellent. Neale Smith 1983.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="8m"
name="Proctologist">Climb the crack in the corner 15m upstream from the last wall. Selby, 1996.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="10m" name="Jonestown Flood"
new="false" number=""
stars="">5m on from the Proctologist is a thin crack climb this to a ledge and then up corner to exit out left under small roofs. McMahon 1983.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length=" " name="Atlantic City" new="false"
number="" stars="">Arete to R. Neale Smith 1983.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length=" " name="Doodle" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Corner round from Jonestown Flood. McMahon 1983.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length=" " name="Nebraska" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Fused corner with tree. McMahon 1983.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length=" " name="Blood on Blood" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Offwidth past roofs. Neale Smith 1983.</climb><text
class="text">Between here and Ramona buttress is a lot of broken cliff line most of it pawed by Narkowicz, McMahon and the likes. A lot of the obvious natural lines have been done and quite a few of the bolted ones. Some of them are probably worth repeating. Go and get the Narkowicz Guide To The Cosmos to be fully enlightened.</text><climb
extra="4B" grade="24" length=" " name="The Imitation of Christ"
new="false" number=""
stars="*">Bolted arete directly underneath furthest upstream powerline. Narkowicz 2002.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false" number="null.">Ramona</text><text
class="text">Access - walk upstream for about 800m from the Duck Reach Cliffs and on the same side. The buttress is visible from Duck Reach suspension bridge as the river bends around to the right.</text><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="10m" name="Louis the King"
stars=" *** ">Fine crack and arete climbing on the small buttress facing the river 50m downstream from The Sting.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="12m"
name="Mac The Finger">Climb the thin twin cracks 4m right of Louis the King for 3m then slightly right before moving back left to the main hand crack.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="12m"
name="Temporary Like Achilles">10m upstream from Mac The Finger is a black corner with a crack on both sides. Climb either or both of these. McMahon, Ling, Smith, 1980.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="12m" name="Smith and Wesson Blues"
stars=" * ">The left trending flake/undercling that leads to the straight crack above. Colyvan, Smith, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="25m" name="The Sting"
stars=" *** ">An excellent climb and probably Mick Lings most lasting contribution. Across the gully/chimney from the previous climbs is a 25m pillar split by an off-width at the top. Climb from the base of this to the roof and out left to stand on the ledge and clip the fixed hanger. Up a thin crack past an eye-bolt to a horizontal break. Briefly up off-width before escaping out left in diagonal jamb crack. DBB. Mick Ling</climb><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="25m"
name="The Burning">Start up The Sting and clip the first bolt then head right up past 4 carrots. A bit crumbly and contrived. Not one of Danny's best efforts. Same DBB as The Sting. Danny Ng.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="20m" name="Ramona"
stars=" *** ">Climb the corner 10m upstream from The Sting and then continue up the hand crack above. DBB.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Headbanger Buttress</text><text
class="text">You can get to this buttress by crossing the river and bashing up the hill from the Duck Reach track just past marker 9. Better is to come in from the Hoo Hoo Hut side of the gorge. On the Duck Reach Road to the Hoo Hoo hut, 1.2 km from the cattle grid, is a sign for the Snake Gully track. Park and follow the track downhill past the horse jumps till you get to a junction with a 4wd track. Turn right, which will take you to the Hoo Hoo hut, the Duck Reach Power station and the Rabbit Trap Buttresses. 40m from the junction, at a slight crest, go left and into the bush. You should pick a cairn fairly soon (for some reason Parks has taken to removing all cairns visible from the track). Follow these along the faint ridge and then down the hill for about 150m. You should emerge either at the top of the buttress or at the bottom of it on the upstream end.</text><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="10m"
name="Devil's Grip the Iron Fist">The broken hand crack above the cairn on the left of the buttress. Narkowicz, 1985.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="10m" name="The Mob Rules"
stars=" * ">The thin looking corner/crack 1m right of DGTIF. Good climbing. Narkowicz, 1985.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="10m" name="Die Young"
stars=" ** ">The corner right of TMR. Superb bridging with small wires. Narkowicz, 1985.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="14m"
name="Paranoid">The large hand crack on the upstream facing wall right of DY. Climb this to the ledge (grade 16), then finish up Impale me on the Horns of Death. Narkowicz, 1985.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="14m"
name="Impale Me on the Horns of Death"
stars=" * ">The great looking twin cracks on the face around the arete and right of Paranoia. Some loose sounding flakes can be disconcerting but worth doing anyway. Up to the ledge, then again on to the top. Narkowicz, 1985.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="6m"
name="Attack of the Mad Axeman">The crack right of the above climb. Climb this to the top of the boulder. It's pretty short, but you can then climb into the climb described below. Narkowicz, 1985.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Kill With Power"
stars=" * ">The crack around the corner and up hill from AOTMA. Tierney, 1985.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="8m"
name="Depressed Fracture">The next line uphill and right of KWP. Narkowicz, 1985.</climb><text
class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">Rabbit Trap Area</text><text class="text"
new="false"
number="null.">A great area with morning sun and afternoon shade so good climbing is possible in summer and winter. Access- see map. To get to the Hoo Hoo Hut drive from the Old Kings bridge at the bottom of the Gorge up Trevallyn Rd./Gorge Rd and follow the signs to Trevallyn State Reserve. Once in the reserve take a left across a cattle grid on to Duck Reach Rd and follow it to the end. Park there and then take the walk to the Duck Reach Power Station. Instead of walking down the stairs to the power station continue along the track and down the hill. Cross a dry (generally) rocky creek bed and continue up the hill on the other side. At the crest of the hill turn 90 right and walk about 80m. This should bring you to the top of the Old Timers Buttresses. All up it's about 15 minutes walk.</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
src="rabbit trap map.png" width=""/><text class="heading3"
new="false" number="null.">K.Archer Buttress</text><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="9m"
name="Enjo">The left most crack on the K.Archer Buttress. Fox, Tiz, 2002.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="9m"
name="If I Were A Border Collie I Could Go For A Girl Like You">4m right of Enjo. DeCesare, Kearnes, 2002.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="10m"
name="Voyeur">The last obvious crack of the buttress. Webb and the little girl, 2002.</climb><text
class="text">The Dr Seuss Pinnacle contains the following climbs and has a DBB on top.</text><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="8m" name="Green Eggs and Ham"
stars=" * ">The large hand crack on the upstream face of the pinnacle. Climbs better than it looks. Fox, Tiz, 2002.</climb><climb
extra="5B" grade="24" length="13m" name="Sam I Am" new="false"
number="" stars="*"
value="Start on the bottom tier and climb up to ledge via 2 FH then fire up the pillar past 3 more FH to DBB. Fox, Tiz, 2002.">Start on the bottom tier and climb up to ledge via 2 FH then fire up the pillar past 3 more FH to DBB. Fox, Tiz, 2002.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Pissing On Trees</text><text class="text"
new="false"
number="null.">See Map. Either walk in directly from the 4WD track or walk above the cliffs from the Old Timers Buttresses. The first 4 climbs are set on a slightly separate part of the cliff.</text><climb
extra="Þ" grade="19" length="7m" name="Painful Addiction"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Up to ledge then past 2 FH on the left most arête of the buttress. Tiz, Kearnes, 2001.">Up to ledge then past 2 FH on the left most arête of the buttress. Tiz, Kearnes, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="24/25" length="8m" name="Gerry Does Dallas"
stars=" ** ">Give yourself the full grade if you place gear as you go. The thin crack 3m right of Painful Addiction. Bissett, Kearnes, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="3B" grade="22" length="8m" name="Sex and Candy"
new="false" number="" stars="*"
value="This time the action goes up past 3 FH. 2m right of Gerry Does Dallas. Fox, Kearnes, 2001.">This time the action goes up past 3 FH. 2m right of Gerry Does Dallas. Fox, Kearnes, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="8m"
name="Small Butt, Perfectly Formed"
stars=" * ">Now the truth is out. Boulder up past the single FH 2m right of Sex and Candy to the thin crack above. Kearnes, Tiz, 2001.</climb><text
class="text">The rest of these climbs are back on the main buttress.</text><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="10m"
name="Machine Gum Fellatio">The left most crack of the buttress. Follow your nose to the top. Kearnes, DeCesare, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="Þ" grade="25" length="12m" name="Howling at the Moon"
new="false" number="" stars="***"
value="Up past 3 FH to the crack. At the top move right past another FH to finish at a DBB. Excellent climbing but the 2nd FH can be hard to clip so it is probably better to stick clip it and not bother with the first one at all. Fox, Tiz, 2001.">Up past 3 FH to the crack. At the top move right past another FH to finish at a DBB. Excellent climbing but the 2nd FH can be hard to clip so it is probably better to stick clip it and not bother with the first one at all. Fox, Tiz, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="Þ" grade="22" length="11m" name="Pissing in the Rain"
new="false" number="" stars="*"
value="Up easy flake past 3 FH then to crack above with a FH in the off-width at the top. DBB. Fox, DeCesare, 2001.">Up easy flake past 3 FH then to crack above with a FH in the off-width at the top. DBB. Fox, DeCesare, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="Þ" grade="23" length="10m" name="Poor Kevin Urinal"
new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="The blunt arête 5m right of Pissing in the Rain. Up past 4 bolts and a 1.5 cam in the horizontal break. DBB. Fox, Bissett, 2001.">The blunt arête 5m right of Pissing in the Rain. Up past 4 bolts and a 1.5 cam in the horizontal break. DBB. Fox, Bissett, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="9m"
name="Brompton Oratory">On the rightmost end of the cliff. Boulder up to horizontal break. Up thin crack above which gradually widens. Same DBB as PKU. DeCesare, Haas, 2001.</climb><text
class="text">When you look from the top of the Pissing on Trees Buttress towards the river there is a pillar 30m away and slightly down stream. Either rap from the Pissing in the Rain belay down over the vegetation or scramble down over it to the front of this pinnacle for the next climb.</text><climb
extra="6B" grade="24" length="12m" name="Halcyon Daze"
new="false" number="" stars="***"
value="The superb orange corner, up past 4FH to a ledge. Step right up past 2 more FH to a DBB. Fox, Bissett, 2001.">The superb orange corner, up past 4FH to a ledge. Step right up past 2 more FH to a DBB. Fox, Bissett, 2001.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Rabbit Trap Buttress Proper</text><text
class="text">See map. Named after the old rabbit trap that should still be at the top of the buttress.</text><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="10m"
name="Black Humour">Boulder up the left most face of the cliff past a FH then up the crack system above to a DBB. Nice climbing but marred by the fact that it is split into 3 tiers. DBB. Originally done by Narkowicz with-out the bolt or the belay.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="10m"
name="Pilgerman">Uninspiring looking climbing up the cracks 3m right of Black Humour. McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="Þ" grade="20" length="12m" name="Anal Fist Fuck Four"
new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="Commonly abreviated to AFFF for some reason. How Bob and Gerry missed this on their original sortie to this cliff I don't know so it was named in memory of those times. The awe inspiring off-width with 3 FH. Has a DBB on top but don't pull your rope down from here or it will jam. Fox, DeCesare, 2001.">Commonly abreviated to AFFF for some reason. How Bob and Gerry missed this on their original sortie to this cliff I don't know so it was named in memory of those times. The awe inspiring off-width with 3 FH. Has a DBB on top but don't pull your rope down from here or it will jam. Fox, DeCesare, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="5B" grade="21" length="12m" name="Pets Prefer Purple"
new="false" number="" stars="***"
value="One of the best climbs in the gorge. 5 bolts going up the arête 3m right of AFFF to finish at DBB. DeCesare, Kearnes, 2001.">One of the best climbs in the gorge. 5 bolts going up the arête 3m right of AFFF to finish at DBB. DeCesare, Kearnes, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="3B" grade="20" length="10m" name="Road to Moonarie"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="8m right of PPP is another arête. Up past 3 bolts and some cams in the horizontal break. DBB. Kearnes, DeCesare, 2001.">8m right of PPP is another arête. Up past 3 bolts and some cams in the horizontal break. DBB. Kearnes, DeCesare, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="10m"
name="Tulip Variant">An excellent variant finish to RTM. At the horizontal break move left to finish up the crack. Tiz, Kearnes, 2001.</climb><text
class="text">Half way between Rabbit Trap Buttress Proper and the Old Timers Buttresses is a small cliff with the next two climbs. Access is by walking along the bottom either from Rabbit Trap or Old Timers.</text><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="8m"
name="Chilli Jam">Climb the orange corner on (shock, horror) natural gear. Don't worry there is a DBB on top. Fox, DeCesare, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="Þ" grade="17" length="9m" name="GBH with a Deadly Possum"
new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="Up the face 2m right of Chilli Jam past 2 FH and some cams to a DBB. Fox, Nichols, 2001.">Up the face 2m right of Chilli Jam past 2 FH and some cams to a DBB. Fox, Nichols, 2001.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Old Timers Buttresses</text><text
class="text">If you take the turn off from the 4wd track on the crest of the hill you should find yourself on top of Possumlea which has a DBB on top of it.</text><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="8m" name="Up The Wall With Dennis"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Climb the face and arete to the right of Over The top With Jim. 3FH and DBB. Rob DeCesare, Dennis Kearnes March 2008.</climb><climb
extra="3B" grade="21" length="8m" name="Over the Top with Jim"
new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="20m upstream from Possumlea is a separate pillar. Climb the left arête of this past 3 eye bolts to a DBB. Fox, Sharman, 2001.">20m upstream from Possumlea is a separate pillar. Climb the left arête of this past 3 eye bolts to a DBB. Fox, Sharman, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="2B" grade="22" length="9m" name="Possumlea" new="false"
number="" stars=""
value="2 bolts up the blunt arête. Stick clip the first. DBB. Fox, DeCesare, 2001.">2 bolts up the blunt arête. Stick clip the first. DBB. Fox, DeCesare, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="9m" name="Mr Natural"
stars=" * ">Around the corner from Possumlea is another natural gear route. What is the world coming to! However it does have a DBB. Kearnes, DeCesare, 2001</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="9m"
name="You're Just a Tired Old Man Dad" new="false" number=""
stars="">Start with the first move on Mr Natural then move right and up the blunt arete. 1 wire and 2FH, DBB. Dennis Kearnes, Rob DeCesare March 2008.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="8m"
name="Shoes, Glue and Almost No Can Do"
stars=" * ">The face on the pillar 3m right of Mr Natural. 2 eye bolts and some cams. Sharman, Fox, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="Þ" grade="16" length="9m" name="Not Just a Pretty Face"
new="false" number="" stars="*"
value="Ain't that the truth. The slabby face with 2 bolts up the pillar 10m right of SGAANCD. DBB. Kearnes, DeCesare, Fox, 2001.">Ain't that the truth. The slabby face with 2 bolts up the pillar 10m right of SGAANCD. DBB. Kearnes, DeCesare, Fox, 2001.</climb><text
class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">Pubic Flash</text><image new="false"
noPrint="false" src="pubic flash sketch map.png"
width="500"></image><text
class="text">From Hoo Hoo Hut you can go either way along the loop to Deadman's Knob until you come to a rock cairn beside a log on the river side of the track(see map). Either way it is about 800m. Then walk towards the river for about 100m. This will bring you to the top of the cliff. It is also possible to get to the cliff from the Duck Reach power station but the walk up the hill is not recommended. There are some shorter easier climbs on the top section. However all the action starts on the lower cliff. This has some of the hardest climbs in northern Tassie so go and flail yourself. Just beware of the Peregrines around nesting time (Sep-Dec) and that the cliff is south facing so will need a bit of wire brushing after a winter of sloth.</text><text
class="heading3" new="false"
value="Pubic Flash Pinnacle">Pubic Flash Pinnacle</text><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="20m" name="Violation"
stars=" * ">On the upstream side of the isolated pillar is a hand crack, climb this to the top. Maddison, McMahon, 1978.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="" name="Screw" new="false" number=""
stars=""
value="Climbs Pubic Flash for 10m, then left on blocks. Reg Marron 1973.">Climbs Pubic Flash for 10m, then left on blocks. Reg Marron 1973.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="13" length="" name="Pubic Flash" new="false"
number="" stars=""
value="Wide crack and chimney on downstream face of main cliff. McHugh, McMahon, 1972.">Wide crack and chimney on downstream face of main cliff. McHugh, McMahon, 1972.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
value="Pubic Flash Wall">Pubic Flash Wall</text><climb extra=""
grade="24" length="15m" name="Born Again" new="false" number=""
stars="*"
value="The thin crack starting behind a bush 20m upstream from Obi Wan Kenobi. Narkowicz, 1985.">The thin crack starting behind a bush 20m upstream from Obi Wan Kenobi. Narkowicz, 1985.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="" name="The Narrow Road" new="false"
number="" stars=""
value="Prominent thin corner. Narkowicz 1985.">Prominent thin corner. Narkowicz 1985.</climb><climb
extra="4B" grade="25" length="17m" name="Obi Wan Kenobi"
new="false" number="" stars="*"
value="2 bolts and 2 fixed hangers. Ng 1990.">2 bolts and 2 fixed hangers. Ng 1990.</climb><climb
extra="4B" grade="27" length="17m" name="Optometrist"
new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="4 carrot bolts possibly badly placed so check it out before you attempt the onsight. Ng 1990.">4 carrot bolts possibly badly placed so check it out before you attempt the onsight. Ng 1990.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="17m" name="Penetration" new="false"
number="" stars=""
value="5m upstream from Back Door to Heaven is a corner and crack which looks like it will improve dramatically with a clean. Smart, McMahon, 1982.">5m upstream from Back Door to Heaven is a corner and crack which looks like it will improve dramatically with a clean. Smart, McMahon, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="7B" grade="24" length="17m" name="Back Door To Heaven"
new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="2m upstream from the off width chimney/corner is a line of 7 carrots some of which are hard to get hangers over. Ng 1991.">2m upstream from the off width chimney/corner is a line of 7 carrots some of which are hard to get hangers over. Ng 1991.</climb><text
class="heading2" new="false" number="null."
value="Willow Jungle Area">Willow Jungle Area</text><text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">Access- see map. Stand in front of the map at the Hoo Hoo Hut and then walk directly south as indicated on the map(actually south-west). With-in 50m 10 minutes all up if you find the right way).
The top tier is 40m back from the river and 50m down the river from the bottom tier. The bottom tier is at the end of the HEC water channel nestled against the willows.
Alternatively you can walk up from Duck Reach power station, past all the other crags not described here, which takes about 45 minutes. The first 4 climbs are on the bottom tier and have a DBB.</text><text
class="heading3" new="false"
value="Willow Jungle Main Crag">Willow Jungle Main Crag</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false" src="willow jungle sketch map 2.png"
width="500"></image><climb extra="" grade="14" length=""
name="French Lettuce" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Blocky corner on far L of causeway. Humzoo 1984.">Blocky corner on far L of causeway. Humzoo 1984.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="" name="Psycho Sexual Mutilation"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Thin face with tree at half height. Narkowicz 1984.">Thin face with tree at half height. Narkowicz 1984.</climb><climb
extra="4B" grade="24" length="10m" name="Dolphins and Whales"
new="false" number="" stars="*"
value="The face/corner with 4 carrots. All of which are hard to get hangers over so add a grade if you like hanging around in extremis trying to get bolt plates to fit. Ng 1990.">The face/corner with 4 carrots. All of which are hard to get hangers over so add a grade if you like hanging around in extremis trying to get bolt plates to fit. Ng 1990.</climb><climb
extra="5B" grade="25" length="10m" name="Dead Man Walking"
new="false" number="" stars="***"
value="The corner with 5 FH. Excellent and unlikely climbing. Narkowicz 2001.">The corner with 5 FH. Excellent and unlikely climbing. Narkowicz 2001.</climb><climb
extra="3B" grade="24" length="10m" name="Dogs, Dust and Diesel"
new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="The corner with 3 FH, 2 of which are beside the old pitons. Needs some wires/small cams between the first and second FH. Narkowicz, 1982.">The corner with 3 FH, 2 of which are beside the old pitons. Needs some wires/small cams between the first and second FH. Narkowicz, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="4B" grade="23" length="10m" name="Surf City" new="false"
number="" stars="**"
value="Up to the roof and on to the arete past 4 carrots. Ng 1990.">Up to the roof and on to the arete past 4 carrots. Ng 1990.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="10m"
name="I'm Married to my Bulldog Mac" new="false" number=""
stars=""
value="Crack to right of Surf City. Narkowicz 1984.">Crack to right of Surf City. Narkowicz 1984.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="" name="Shouldering On" new="false"
number="" stars=""
value="Line up middle of smaller crag 20m right. Narkowicz 1983.">Line up middle of smaller crag 20m right. Narkowicz 1983.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="" name="Wine List & Snack Menu"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Right of Shouldering On. Ling 1983.">Right of Shouldering On. Ling 1983.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
value="Mansion On the Hill">Mansion On the Hill</text><text
class="text" new="false"
value="These climbs are on the Mansion On the Hill, which is up to the right of the main Willow Jungle crag.">These climbs are on the Mansion On the Hill, which is up to the right of the main Willow Jungle crag.</text><climb
extra="4B" grade="22" length="10m" name="Missing Josiah"
new="false" number="" stars="*"
value="On the separate pillar at the far upstream end of the cliff is a bolted face. Hard start then eases up. 4 FH and a DBB. Narkowicz 2001.">On the separate pillar at the far upstream end of the cliff is a bolted face. Hard start then eases up. 4 FH and a DBB. Narkowicz 2001.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="" name="Never Going Back"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Follow crack out to arete, then up Missing Josiah. Narkowicz 1983.">Follow crack out to arete, then up Missing Josiah. Narkowicz 1983.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="" name="Scales of Justice"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Narrowing chimney. Neale Smith 1983.">Narrowing chimney. Neale Smith 1983.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="10m" name="Gates of Hardened Steel"
new="false" number="" stars="*"
value="The thin crack in the shallow corner. Neale Smith, 1983.">The thin crack in the shallow corner. Neale Smith, 1983.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="10m" name="Sticky Willow"
stars=" * ">A bouldery start to gain access to the thin crack. McOwan, Wells, 1991.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="8m" name="Clandestine Filth"
new="false" number="" stars="*"
value="The hand crack 2m left of Chuck It. McMahon 1983.">The hand crack 2m left of Chuck It. McMahon 1983.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="8m"
name="Chuck It on the Backburner With the Abbos and the Poofters"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="The corner. McMahon 1983.">The corner. McMahon 1983.</climb><climb
extra="4B" grade="22" length="10m" name="Barbeque Boy"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="The bolted face L of Night Train (the arete with carrot bolts by Danny Ng). Gymnastic face moves past 4 bolts to join the same anchors as Night Train. Gerry Narkowicz 7/12/04.">The bolted face L of Night Train (the arete with carrot bolts by Danny Ng). Gymnastic face moves past 4 bolts to join the same anchors as Night Train. Gerry Narkowicz 7/12/04. </climb><climb
extra="4B" grade="23" length="8m" name="Night Train" new="false"
number="" stars=""
value="Start from the ledge 8m left of Those Mornings After Blues climb the blunt arete past 4 carrots. DBB. Ng 1990's.">Start from the ledge 8m left of Those Mornings After Blues climb the blunt arete past 4 carrots. DBB. Ng 1990's.</climb><text
class="text">The next two climbs start in the same corner and look too close to be independent but are actually quite separate.</text><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="10m"
name="Those Morning After Blues#" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="The left hand crack from the same start as BOAT.">The left hand crack from the same start as BOAT.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="10m" name="Bringing On a Thirst"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Starts in the corner and then goes up the right crack. Narkowicz 1983.">Starts in the corner and then goes up the right crack. Narkowicz 1983.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="10m" name="Pussy Willow" new="false"
number="" stars="*"
value="The corner/crack with the chockstones. Neale Smith 1983.">The corner/crack with the chockstones. Neale Smith 1983.</climb><climb
extra="3B" grade="23" length="10m" name="Going to Horeb"
new="false" number="" stars="*"
value="Same start as SC before moving left at the undercling to the arête up past 3 FH. DBB. Narkowicz 2001.">Same start as SC before moving left at the undercling to the arête up past 3 FH. DBB. Narkowicz 2001.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Summer Campaign"
new="false" number="" stars="*"
value="Up thin crack for 3m to horizontal break before moving right to the hand crack.McMahon 1983.">Up thin crack for 3m to horizontal break before moving right to the hand crack.McMahon 1983.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Fifth Estate</text><text class="text" new="false"
number="null.">From the arrowhead rock cairn to Willow Jungle continue straight ahead following the other cairns for 50m 4 good looking sports routes and a few natural gear routes that look O.K</text><text
class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">Aclai Del Lei</text><text class="text"
new="false"
number="null.">This cliff is reached either by walking across the Trevallyn Dam wall and heading up the hill, or more easily: head towards the Launceston casino, take a right turn into Blackstone Rd, follow this for a few km's, turn right into Panorama Rd and follow this to a T intersection (Bayview Dr.) Turn right, then take the next right at Columbus Dr. Park at the end of this. If you follow Bayview Dr. to its end and look to the right you will see Aclai Del Lei. From the car park on the left is a gate and a track that heads up hill. Follow your nose up the hill and down the other side until you get to a small open grassy area (about 5 min). From here head slightly to your left through the bush for another 100m. This should bring you to the top of the cliff. There is a rap station set back on a boulder above Northern Man. The climbing here is great. On a sunny winters day it's possible to climb in just a shirt. To find your way around first find Wasp Factory (the wall with 3 eye bolts and a DBB) and work from there).</text><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Holy Roman Empire"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Bridging steeply up face on left of crag. Narkowicz 1982.">Bridging steeply up face on left of crag. Narkowicz 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="15m" name="Silicon Chip" new="false"
number="" stars=""
value="Blocky start up to FH and corner above then trend right. A bit loose in places. Neale Smith 1983.">Blocky start up to FH and corner above then trend right. A bit loose in places. Neale Smith 1983.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="17m" name="Parson's Arete"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Right arete of main face with one bolt. Parsons 1982.">Right arete of main face with one bolt. Parsons 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="19m" name="Northern Man" new="false"
number="" stars="**"
value="Twin finger cracks left of Wasp Factory. Narkowicz 1982.">Twin finger cracks left of Wasp Factory. One FH near the finish; DDB at top. Narkowicz 1982.</climb><climb
extra="3B" grade="24" length="15m" name="Wasp Factory"
new="false" number="" stars="***"
value="Tho' I reckon it's a grade harder especially for the onsight or the less than six foot climber. The face 5m right of BIMM, sporting 3 bolts and a DBB. Good, committing climbing. Tierney, Fox, Bissett 1997.">Tho' I reckon it's a grade harder especially for the onsight or the less than six foot climber. The face 5m right of BIMM, sporting 3 bolts and a DBB. Good, committing climbing. Tierney, Fox, Bissett 1997.</climb><text
class="text" new="false"
value="There is a set of rap chains on the wall at the top of White Fang.">There is a set of rap chains on the wall at the top of White Fang.</text><climb
extra="2B" grade="23" length="13m" name="Margin Walker"
new="false" number="" stars="*"
value="The arête with 2 bolts across the gully and right of WF. A mid-size cam is handy once you gain the flake. Bissett, Fox, Tierney 1997.">The arête with 3 bolts across the gully and right of WF. A mid-size cam is handy (but not essential) once you gain the flake. Dangerous fall potenial between first and second BR. Bissett, Fox, Tierney 1997.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="13m" name="White Fang" new="false"
number="" stars="*"
value="Same start as MW but head right past 2 carrots to the right leading crack. Ng.">Same start as MW but head right past 2 carrots to the right leading crack (good small cams). As with the route to its left, there is dangerous fall potenial between first and second BR. Ng.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="12m" name="Expecting To Fly"
new="false" number="" stars="**" value="This is the fun crack right of ITOM. Up the crack to the overlap then a tricky move left to gain the final crack. Both the climbing and the protection are good. Narkowicz 1982.">This is the fun crack right of ITOM. Up the crack to the overlap then a tricky move left to gain the final crack. Both the climbing and the protection are good. Narkowicz 1982.</climb></guide>
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