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<guide guidestars="*"><header
access="Traveling from Hobart or Launceston on the Midland Highway, turn east on the A4, just south of Conara Junction, and head for Fingal. At Avoca turn L and drive up the B42 to Rossarden, and then about another 6km on to the abandoned tungsten mining township of Storys Creek. <br/>Alternatively if traveling up from the east coast, follow the A4 to St Marys. Continue towards Fingal but turn off R on the B42 through Mangana and onwards towards Rossarden. After about 20kms, take the turn off R to Storys Creek. <br/>The rough track for Stacks starts from the far end of township, about 100m past the old hall on the R. It heads up towards the mountains for about 1.5km, with ample parking and room to turn around at a track junction. Best to leave your car here and walk, unless you have a 4WD, in which case you can drive on further up the LH track, saving maybe 30 mins walking. <br/>From the end of the 4WD drive track follow the cairns and red tape up and out of the bush to the base of the talus slope, about half an hours walking. Continue across the blocks towards the base of Denison Crag.<br/>Camping and backpacker accommodation are available at St Marys, or you may opt for the great campsite by Tranquil Tarn, located a couple of hundred metres east of the marked track below Denison Crag. (See Tasmap St Pauls, 1:100 000 or Stacks 1:25 000 [5439] ). Alternatively the newly opened Craggy Peaks resort has upmarket accommodation at Rossarden (www.craggypeaks.com.au). <br/>The area is within the Ben Lomond National Park and is a fuel stove only area. A Parks Entry Pass is required."
acknowledgement="Based on an original guide by Garn Cooper"
guide.action="submit" guide.id="0" guide.page="0"
guide.type="header"
history="Many of the higher cliffs in Tasmania pose major challenges to climbers seeking new routes. Difficult access, complex route finding, variable weather, steepness and sometimes loose rock, all combine to make any climb a major undertaking. Yet each new generation has some climbers who are attracted to the mountains by those very difficulties, the innovators who not only push grades but also move out into new areas, explore the possible and give the improbable a shake as well. And so it has been at Stacks Bluff.<br/>It wasn’t until the early 1970s that the first recorded rock climb was made when the redoubtable Reg Williams and Lyle Closs climbed Brunhilde (16) on Rhine Buttress, with Bob Bull and John Moore adding two more lines a month later. The early pioneers from that time reads like a “Who’s Who” of Tasmanian, and Australian, climbing. Peter Jackson, Kim Carrigan, Ian Lewis, Bryan Kennedy, Bob McMahon, with Williams and Closs, between them established many of what are now recognized as the classics of the area. In 1973, this culminated in the ascent over three days of the “Trinity” (Aqualung (21), Blue Eyed Son (18) and No Blind (19)) by Closs, Lewis and Kennedy on Denison Crag, serious, long and committing climbs which have maintained their grade to today. Not content with these classics, Lewis returned with Carrigan two weeks later to add Maggie May (21) and Overhanging like a Sausage (19) to the tally. <br/>Exploratory trips by John Burgess, Mike Douglas, Mike Steane and Chris Viney in the late 1970s opened up new faces and climbed the prominent summit ridges, but Carrigan with a youthful local boy, Simon Parsons, was back in ’82 to add the classic Maxalon (23). <br/>Activity subsided for some years. McMahon and Robert Staszewski put up Visiting Earth (21M1) in the mid 90s, before Garn Cooper became enthused by the cliff and it’s potential. Over the next couple of years he repeated many of the classics and added a number of classy climbs of his own such as the South Side of the Sausage (20) with Hamish Jackson, and The Definitive Article (17) on Rhine Buttress with Bruce Terry. McMahon was back in 1997 with Norm Selby on Ulster (18), but it was Al Williams, climbing some 30 years after his father, Reg, pioneered the first climb in the area, who led the next push with Doug Grubert and Cooper on such classics as Hybrid Vigour (21) and the Wall (19). More recently, the Tasmanian Climbing chronicler Gerry Narkowicz has has added to his tally for the mountain with Cornercopia (23), climbed with Gareth Llewellin, but there is still a phenomenal amount of rock awaiting the next generation of ambitious and restless climbers. <br/>The southern escarpment is also an important ice climbing area and a short guide to the cliffs is in preparation (2008)."
intro="To the east of Launceston is the great bulk of the Ben Lomond Massif, a high plateau capped by a layer of Jurassic dolerite. At the southern end of the plateau is a long escarpment terminating in a mighty corner pillar rising up to 1527m, Stacks Bluff. This southern rim to Ben Lomond is a line of huge dolerite cliffs, forming one of the finest mountain landscapes in Tasmania, with spectacular views from the top - Mt Wellington is clearly visible on a good day far to the south. <br/>"
name="Stacks Bluff" new="false"
rock="Alpine dolerite, less regular than the northern escarpment"
sun="Morning sun" walk="1 hour"/><text class="indentedHeader"
guide.action="submit" guide.id="1" guide.page="0"
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value="Climbing Info: <br/>The walk-in takes only about one hour from the road head but the cliffs of Stacks Bluff are exposed and high, rising up to 1500m, and inevitably catch the prevailing weather. In winter the crag is often ice covered, while in summer changes in conditions can be rapid and unexpected. <br/>The climbing is fairly typical for dolerite, with steep and strenuous cracks interspersed by walls and corners, broken up by welcome belay ledges. The longer routes are up to 200m making them a serious undertaking.<br/>This is a bolt-free crag and the local consensus seems to be that it should stay that way. Please respect the local opinion on this one.<br/>There are four main cliffs in this area. To the L (west) is Stacks Bluff itself, with a series of ridges leading to the summit, then the columnar cliff called the Baleen. The Blade Crag is next , followed by the impressive Denison Crag to the R, the most popular to date and most accessible.<br/>For more information, and more topos, see “Climb Tasmania, A Selected Best Guide” by Gerry Narkowicz, published by Climb Tasmania Incorporated, 2005.<br/>">Climbing Info:
The walk-in takes only about one hour from the road head but the cliffs of Stacks Bluff are exposed and high, rising up to 1500m, and inevitably catch the prevailing weather. In winter the crag is often ice covered, while in summer changes in conditions can be rapid and unexpected.
The climbing is fairly typical for dolerite, with steep and strenuous cracks interspersed by walls and corners, broken up by welcome ledges. The longer routes are up to 200m making them a serious undertaking. This is a bolt-free crag and the consensus seems to be that it should stay that way. Please respect the local opinion on this one.
There are four main cliffs in this area. To the L (west) is Stacks Bluff itself, with a series of ridges leading to the summit, then the columnar cliff called the Baleen. The Blade Crag is next, followed by the impressive Denison Crag to the R, the most popular to date and most accessible.
For more information, and more topos, see “Climb Tasmania, A Selected Best Guide” by Gerry Narkowicz, published by Climb Tasmania Incorporated, 2005.
</text><text
class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">Summit Ridges</text><text
class="text">There are three big ridges terminating near the summit of Stacks Bluff. Quite a hike and a big adventurous day.</text><climb
extra="" grade="14" guide.action="submit" guide.id="4"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="240m"
name="Typhoon Ridge" new="false" number="" stars="*"
value=""A ridge where you need a hemp rope, a couple of no. 1 slings, and one or two ex-W.D. krabs. Great rock, climbing, positions, and nearly all the climbing is easy, a bomber of a route." <br/>Start: At the far southwest corner of Stacks Bluff there is a series of six or seven ridges leading up to the top of the mountain. Typhoon Ridge is very broken at the start and is the last one before you start heading uphill on a traverse from the lake under the cliffs. The first two pitches were on rather bad rock but the quality improves radically. The hardest pitch was when the route went out left over a freshly cut bit of rock and up a rather bare area. Another bit is where the route goes to the right of the ridge and up thin cracks to the top of the ridge again. Apart from these, the route is plain sailing, especially when the wind is doing 70 - 80 mph. <br/>Lyell Closs, Bryan (Hooks) Kennedy (alt) 25/12/73.">"A ridge where you need a hemp rope, a couple of no. 1 slings, and one or two ex-W.D. krabs. Great rock, climbing, positions, and nearly all the climbing is easy, a bomber of a route."
Start: At the far southwest corner of Stacks Bluff there is a series of six or seven ridges leading up to the top of the mountain. Typhoon Ridge is very broken at the start and is the last one before you start heading uphill on a traverse from the lake under the cliffs. The first two pitches were on rather bad rock but the quality improves radically. The hardest pitch was when the route went out left over a freshly cut bit of rock and up a rather bare area. Another bit is where the route goes to the right of the ridge and up thin cracks to the top of the ridge again. Apart from these, the route is plain sailing, especially when the wind is doing 70 - 80 mph.
Lyell Closs, Bryan (Hooks) Kennedy (alt) 25/12/73.</climb><climb
extra="Straight Forward" grade="" guide.action="submit"
guide.id="5" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="280m"
name="Hagen Ridge" new="false" number="" stars="*"
value="General Note: Hagen Ridge is a long enjoyable route on sound rock. A fairly strenuous 9 pitch climb amidst impressive surroundings. Excellent chock protection is available on all pitches. <br/>There are three prominent skyline ridges on the southwestern end of Stacks Bluff and these merge near the summit. The left hand (northeastern) line was climbed by Closs and Kennedy. The right hand (southwestern) line is a curved gendarme ridge. Hagen Ridge is the long narrow ridge between these two lines. It leads directly to a conspicuous exit chimney (Fafnir's Chasm) which is easily recognised by the mass of huge chockstones blocking its roof. <br/>Start: There are two pulpits at the base of the ridge, with a large cairn built flush against the right hand pulpit. The climb commences with the crackline behind the right hand pulpit. <br/>1. 15m. Up steep crack/corner line to ledge. <br/>2. 25m. Crack/chimney line a little to the right of pitch 1. Leads to a platform below a 10m needle (Adrian's Pillar). <br/>3. 20m. Scramble/climb to belay platform. <br/>4. 35m. An entertaining piece of climbing. Thrutch up to the crest of the ridge and mantleshelf onto it. Traverse right on a ledge leading to a short but strenuous crack cum chimney. A further traverse on easy ground leads to a belay near a large scoparia bush below a narrow chimney. <br/>5. 35m. Tackle the chimney and continue on large blocks to a big sloping platform on the ridge crest. <br/>6. 50m. Take the right hand line which is about 10m below the ridge crest. Slither across a lichen covered slab, then walk/scramble/climb on a grassy line to the base of a chimney filled with small chockstones. <br/>7. 35m. A fine pitch, though rather strenuous. Climb the chimney (which is longer than it looks) to a belay platform at the base of Fafnir's Chasm. <br/>8. 25m. Mantle shelf over the huge chockstones in Fafnir's Chasm. A foot sling on a thread runner was used for aid to surmount an overhanging chockstone about half way up this pitch. <br/>9. 40m. Go through the big exit doorway just below the roof of Fafnir's Chasm. Climb the obvious rightwards trending line, then up a thin crack (hard to see in the dark) to the crest of the ridge. This is more or less the end of the climb. A scramble along the ridge crest from here eventually leads to the summit of Stacks Bluff. <br/>Mike Douglas, Chris Viney 1/3/75. Climbing time approximately 6 hours.">General Note: Hagen Ridge is a long enjoyable route on sound rock. A fairly strenuous 9 pitch climb amidst impressive surroundings. Excellent chock protection is available on all pitches.
There are three prominent skyline ridges on the southwestern end of Stacks Bluff and these merge near the summit. The left hand (northeastern) line was climbed by Closs and Kennedy. The right hand (southwestern) line is a curved gendarme ridge. Hagen Ridge is the long narrow ridge between these two lines. It leads directly to a conspicuous exit chimney (Fafnir's Chasm) which is easily recognised by the mass of huge chockstones blocking its roof.
Start: There are two pulpits at the base of the ridge, with a large cairn built flush against the right hand pulpit. The climb commences with the crackline behind the right hand pulpit.
1. 15m. Up steep crack/corner line to ledge.
2. 25m. Crack/chimney line a little to the right of pitch 1. Leads to a platform below a 10m needle (Adrian's Pillar).
3. 20m. Scramble/climb to belay platform.
4. 35m. An entertaining piece of climbing. Thrutch up to the crest of the ridge and mantleshelf onto it. Traverse right on a ledge leading to a short but strenuous crack cum chimney. A further traverse on easy ground leads to a belay near a large scoparia bush below a narrow chimney.
5. 35m. Tackle the chimney and continue on large blocks to a big sloping platform on the ridge crest.
6. 50m. Take the right hand line which is about 10m below the ridge crest. Slither across a lichen covered slab, then walk/scramble/climb on a grassy line to the base of a chimney filled with small chockstones.
7. 35m. A fine pitch, though rather strenuous. Climb the chimney (which is longer than it looks) to a belay platform at the base of Fafnir's Chasm.
8. 25m. Mantle shelf over the huge chockstones in Fafnir's Chasm. A foot sling on a thread runner was used for aid to surmount an overhanging chockstone about half way up this pitch.
9. 40m. Go through the big exit doorway just below the roof of Fafnir's Chasm. Climb the obvious rightwards trending line, then up a thin crack (hard to see in the dark) to the crest of the ridge. This is more or less the end of the climb. A scramble along the ridge crest from here eventually leads to the summit of Stacks Bluff.
Mike Douglas, Chris Viney 1/3/75. Climbing time approximately 6 hours.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="13" guide.action="submit" guide.id="6"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="240m"
name="South East Ridge" new="false" number="" stars="*"
value="This is the eastern most of the three main ridges on the southern end of the bluff, and joins Hagen Ridge (the central of the three) after about 150m. Another real bomber. <br/>Start: The route starts a few yards right of the base of the ridge and follows an obvious left trending line for about 70m to the crest of the ridge. Here there are two huge chimneys; the left hand one leads back up to the ridge crest, and from here a crack goes straight up to the skyline to the first pinnacle before the junction with Hagen Ridge (150m). From here a short abseil and traverse lead to a narrow chimney at the top of the grass pitch of Hagen Ridge, ie up chimney, exit out back of Fafnir's Chasm, up crack at left of skyline, along skyline and across slabs to exit cracks (240m). <br/>John Burgess, Mick Steane (alt) 7/12/76.">This is the eastern most of the three main ridges on the southern end of the bluff, and joins Hagen Ridge (the central of the three) after about 150m. Another real bomber.
Start: The route starts a few yards right of the base of the ridge and follows an obvious left trending line for about 70m to the crest of the ridge. Here there are two huge chimneys; the left hand one leads back up to the ridge crest, and from here a crack goes straight up to the skyline to the first pinnacle before the junction with Hagen Ridge (150m). From here a short abseil and traverse lead to a narrow chimney at the top of the grass pitch of Hagen Ridge, ie up chimney, exit out back of Fafnir's Chasm, up crack at left of skyline, along skyline and across slabs to exit cracks (240m).
John Burgess, Mick Steane (alt) 7/12/76.</climb><text
class="text">NB: Instead of traversing left at the junction with Hagen Ridge, an idea would be to go straight up the crack which splits the wall ahead (serious) or else there are some big lines on the east wall; an attempt on one of these was thwarted by an uncooperative tree. These cracks would probably come out above Fafnir's Chasm.</text><text
class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">The Baleen</text><text class="text"
guide.action="submit" guide.id="9" guide.page="0"
guide.type="text" new="false"
value="This is the very regular columnar cliff between Blade Crag and the top of Stacks. It is probably best to walk to the top of this cliff, dump your gear, and abseil down the gully between the western and the middle buttresses. The bottom access is quicker but scrubbier.">This is the very regular columnar cliff between Blade Crag and the top of Stacks. It is probably best to walk to the top of this cliff, dump your gear, and abseil down the gully between the western and the middle buttresses. The bottom access is quicker but scrubbier.</text><climb
extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="10"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="145m"
name="Between The Eyes" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Also known as The Tim Chappell Memorial Route, this route is on the western most and highest of the Baleen Buttresses (the regular columns). It goes between the two roofs which are ~30 m below the top.<br/>Start: At a 25 m high corner with a 2 m flake leaning into it. When you stand at the start you seem to be directly below the right hand roof.<br/>1. 45m, 17. Climb the corner and then 5 m up the bulge onto the shrubby ledge. Move up the corner and left to belay on arete.<br/>2. 45m, 18. Continue into the left hand corner and follow this to the foot of the columns. Two cracks lead to the right hand roof. Take the right one to the belay 25 m up.<br/>3. 25m, 18. Climb using both cracks to the roof and move left to belay.<br/>4. 30m, 17. Move carefully to the top. We took the left line and face.<br/>Bruce Terry, Garn Cooper. 2/12/2000">Also known as The Tim Chappell Memorial Route, this route is on the western most and highest of the Baleen Buttresses (the regular columns). It goes between the two roofs which are ~30 m below the top.
Start: At a 25 m high corner with a 2 m flake leaning into it. When you stand at the start you seem to be directly below the right hand roof.
1. 45m, 17. Climb the corner and then 5 m up the bulge onto the shrubby ledge. Move up the corner and left to belay on arete.
2. 45m, 18. Continue into the left hand corner and follow this to the foot of the columns. Two cracks lead to the right hand roof. Take the right one to the belay 25 m up.
3. 25m, 18. Climb using both cracks to the roof and move left to belay.
4. 30m, 17. Move carefully to the top. We took the left line and face.
Bruce Terry, Garn Cooper. 2/12/2000</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="11"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="70m"
name="First In Best Dressed" new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="From the western descent gully, this route climbs up the south western part of the middle Baleen buttress. <br/>Start: In the descent gully near where the cliff first reaches 70m as an unbroken column. To the right of this column there is a deep recess with a 5m slab at it's base - very clean. At the top of the slab is a perfect hand crack on the left. <br/>1. 35m 17 Zoom up the hand crack to belay at the break where it is starting to become a little wide and flaky. <br/>2. 35m 16 Keep going up the wide flaky stuff, which soon relents. <br/>G.Cooper, A.Bown 7/12/2000">From the western descent gully, this route climbs up the south western part of the middle Baleen buttress.
Start: In the descent gully near where the cliff first reaches 70m as an unbroken column. To the right of this column there is a deep recess with a 5m slab at it's base - very clean. At the top of the slab is a perfect hand crack on the left.
1. 35m 17 Zoom up the hand crack to belay at the break where it is starting to become a little wide and flaky.
2. 35m 16 Keep going up the wide flaky stuff, which soon relents.
G.Cooper, A.Bown 7/12/2000</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="12"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="70m"
name="Being Krill" new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="This route goes up the middle of the middle Baleen Buttress. In the middle of the buttress are two complete columns which are not encroached on by any nearby columns. This climb is the tight hand crack up the left margin of the left pillar. <br/>1. 32m, 19. Up the initially sustained crack, which eases and belay at the break. <br/>2. 38m, 18. Bridge elegantly with airy stances to the top. <br/>A. Bown, G.Cooper 7/12/2000.">This route goes up the middle of the middle Baleen Buttress. In the middle of the buttress are two complete columns which are not encroached on by any nearby columns. This climb is the tight hand crack up the left margin of the left pillar.
1. 32m, 19. Up the initially sustained crack, which eases and belay at the break.
2. 38m, 18. Bridge elegantly with airy stances to the top.
A. Bown, G.Cooper 7/12/2000.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" guide.action="submit" guide.id="55"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="60m"
name="Cornercopia" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Start: At the right hand end of the middle Baleen buttress, this is the most obvious protectable line. It ascends a broken crack in a corner, then at midheight moves left with the broken crack, into the next corner until the top. Gareth Llewellin, Gerry Narcowicz 2006?<br/>">Start: At the right hand end of the middle Baleen buttress, this is the most obvious protectable line. It ascends a broken crack in a corner, then at midheight moves left with the broken crack, into the next corner until the top. Gareth Llewellin, Gerry Narcowicz 2006
</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Blade Crag (Upper Tier)</text><climb extra=""
grade="14" length="35m"
name="Icing Legitimate">Start: This route climbs the blade on the crack where it joins the right wall.
1. 27m. Bridge and chimney up the groove without much difficulty to a peg belay at the foot of the 8m corner.
2. 10m. A bold but straightforward layback up the corner to the top of the blade.
R. Bull, J. Moore (alt) Easter 1971.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Blade Crag (Lower Tier)</text><climb extra=""
grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="17" guide.page="0"
guide.type="climb" length="65m" name="Windhover" new="false"
number="" stars=""
value="Garn wrote this description from looking at Jackson's drawing - this route needs to be climbed for a good non pictorial description.<br/>Start: Up left from the foot of Blade crag, beneath the bristling overhangs.<br/>1. 40m. Up and past overhangs on the right. Back left after overhangs and belay.<br/>2. 25m. Easily on to the walk off ledge.<br/>P.Jackson, R.Williams">Garn wrote this description from looking at Jackson's drawing - this route needs to be climbed for a good non pictorial description.
Start: Up left from the foot of Blade crag, beneath the bristling overhangs.
1. 40m. Up and past overhangs on the right. Back left after overhangs and belay.
2. 25m. Easily on to the walk off ledge.
P.Jackson, R.Williams</climb><climb
extra="" grade="14" length="70m"
name="Closs - McMahon">Start: Up right from the foot of Blade Crag, at the first steep black line.
1. 50 m. Up steeply with difficulty for 6 - 7m, then wander up to your left. Continue up, keeping a few metres left of the arete. Belay on big ledge.
2. 80 m. Trend up left on the steeper slabs to the left arete and up this to finish.
Lyell Closs, Robert McMahon. Same day as Windhover.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="50m"
name="Hydatids">Starts: At the right hand end of Blade Crag there are two small buttresses with a gully between the two.
1. 25 m. Up the gully to large loose looking block (piton used to surmount this on first ascent) and pull over it to belay on small spike.
2. 25 m. Continue up and break out right to the crack on the wall. A superb pitch.
R. Bull, J. Moore (alt) Easter 1971.</climb><text
class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">Denison Crag</text><text class="text"
guide.action="submit" guide.id="56" guide.page="0"
guide.type="text" new="false"
value="According to Jackson, McMahon and Closs did an easy chimney around this end of Denison Crag a couple of days after Windhover.">According to Jackson, McMahon and Closs did an easy chimney around this end of Denison Crag a couple of days after Windhover.</text><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="10m"
name="The Easter Island Bunny">At the top of the western descent gully is a lone pillar which resembles a rabbit. Climb the easiest line on superbly solid rock.
Alan Williams (solo) 6/12/2000.</climb><text
class="text">The next two routes are just left of Lucifer.</text><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="70m"
name="Sky Mark">Start: At the base of the gully left of The Wall.
1. 10m Scramble left and up to a stance at the base of the finger crack.
2. 40m 18. Follow the finger crack which widens to hands to a ledge then continue up corner above.
3. 20m Scramble to top.
Doug Grubert, Alan Williams (solo) 6/12/2000.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="25"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="50m" name="The Wall"
new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="Fifty metres right of the western descent gully is a slightly narrower gully above a col. This route takes the crack splitting the wall to the right of the gully. <br/>1. 25m 19. Up face and seem for 12 m to small ledge. Continue up immaculate crack (fingers to hands) to a comfy ledge below the final corner. <br/>2. 25m 17. Follow the corner to the top of the column. Belay. Abseil off, or scramble to the top. <br/>Alan Williams, Doug Grubert 6/12/2000.">Fifty metres right of the western descent gully is a slightly narrower gully above a col. This route takes the crack splitting the wall to the right of the gully.
1. 25m 19. Up face and seem for 12 m to small ledge. Continue up immaculate crack (fingers to hands) to a comfy ledge below the final corner.
2. 25m 17. Follow the corner to the top of the column. Belay. Abseil off, or scramble to the top.
Alan Williams, Doug Grubert 6/12/2000.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="13" length="80m"
name="Lucifer">An interesting chimney route without too much thrutching, in an obvious corner just right of a huge wide chimney, towards the western end of the crag. There is a white spot on the wall about 20m up.
Start: From the lake walk around the cliffs past the Trinity, past Overhanging like a Sausage. Just before the scree slope that runs up to the plateau at the extreme end of the Denison Crag cliffs there is a very prominent corner. This is Lucifer.
1. 23m. Straight up to belay above huge rectangular block.
2. 35m. Stay right when chimney divides, until it deepens to a comfortable chockstone belay above a couple of small overhanging chockstones.
3. 22m. Continue up then across a paddock, and up easy exit chimney to finish on the plateau.
John Burgess, Michael Steane (alt) 30/11/75.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="100m"
name="Next Of Kin">Between Overhanging Like A Sausage and its descent gully are two large chimney/gullies. This route is the left facing corner between the these two gullies. It has a white spot about 30m on the right and a big roof at about 40m, which you can pass easily on the left. After the roof, stick to the broad arete on the right, passing up a little (3m) detached pillar which leans over the chasm on the right.
Garn Cooper 30/11/2000.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="100m"
name="Puff The Magic Dragon">Start: Approximately 40 m left of Overhanging Like A Sausage at the base of the right facing corner with a small roof at 35m.
1. 25m 17. Follow the corner to a stance 10m below roof.
2. 45m 22. Continue up corner, stepping into right hand line to pass roof (crux). 10 m of bridging follows until easing to a chimney. Belay on large vegetated ledge.
3. 30m 15. Continue to top.
Alan Williams, Doug Grubert. 5/12/2000.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Scimitar Buttress</text><text
class="text">The leftmost major buttress on Denison Crag (aka Nibelung Walls) is called Scimitar Buttress (and Rudiger's Castle).</text><climb
extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="31"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="125m"
name="The South Side Of The Sausage" new="false" number=""
stars="**"
value="Takes the first major corner system to the left of Overhanging Like A Sausage. <br/>Start: At a neat little corner on the nose of the sausage. <br/>1. 48m 20. Up the little corner for about 15m, then traverse left into the main line. Continue to the roof without being drawn out to the arete. After passing the roof (with possibly a spell on the arete), continue in the corner to the belay. Do not be tempted by the left arete. <br/>2. 45m 16. Up the left V corner to a pile of stacked blocks. Nice steep varied crack climbing above to the belay. <br/>3. 32m 14. Easily to the top. <br/>Garn Cooper, Hamish Jackson ??/1/99.">Takes the first major corner system to the left of Overhanging Like A Sausage.
Start: At a neat little corner on the nose of the sausage.
1. 48m 20. Up the little corner for about 15m, then traverse left into the main line. Continue to the roof without being drawn out to the arete. After passing the roof (with possibly a spell on the arete), continue in the corner to the belay. Do not be tempted by the left arete.
2. 45m 16. Up the left V corner to a pile of stacked blocks. Nice steep varied crack climbing above to the belay.
3. 32m 14. Easily to the top.
Garn Cooper, Hamish Jackson ??/1/99.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="150m"
name="Overhanging Like A Sausage" new="false" number=""
stars="***">Previously named scimitar by some twit.
Start: Left of the last major gully on the bluff is a corner that looks unlike a scimitar (except to twits), but which does look like an overhanging sausage.
1. 45m 16. Climb over large blocks at the base, then continue up corner past two roofs to a small ledge on the left.
2. 45m 19. Climb up bulging corner to a small resting place. Continue up corner to a small chimney. Up this, pull over roof, then continue up short corner to semi-hanging belay in a small cave.
3. 15m 16. Chimney up the very overhanging chimney above, then traverse right to a large bushy ledge.
4. 48m 15. Up large off-width corner for 15m, then continue up large slab on right to top.
Kim Carrigan, Ian Lewis (alt) 12/1/74.</climb><text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">Right of Scimitar Buttress a prominent tower stands out from the cliff about 3/4 of the way up it. A route called Danube Buttress by Whelan, Prins and Lawson starts below this and finishes up to the right of it?</text><text
class="text">The next major buttress to the right is called Saxon Spur and was climbed by Douglas and Whelan?</text><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Rhine Buttress</text><text class="text"
guide.action="submit" guide.id="35" guide.page="0"
guide.type="text" new="false"
value="And the next is called Rhine Buttress.">And the next is called Rhine Buttress.</text><climb
extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="57"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="~100m"
name="Double Edged Sword" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="A route left of Brunhilde which finishes on top of the same buttress. Descend on left by abseil. G.Narcowicz & R.McMahon mid 1990s.<br/>">A route left of Brunhilde which finishes on top of the same buttress. Descend on left by abseil. G.Narcowicz & R.McMahon mid 1990s.
</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="115m" name="Brunhilde" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Location: On a partly detached buttress of the Nibelung Walls. The buttress is approximately 2/3 of the distance along the walls, from right hand end. It has two slender columns above and set back from it.
The route takes a prominent crack and deidre line splitting the nose of the buttress. It is a clean line of sustained high standard and calls for a variety of techniques. Protection is good throughout, but there is a certain amount of loose rock in places.
Start: At the foot of the buttress, below a pale scar left by a recent rock fall.
1. 25m. Climb up the scar, move left for a metre and ascend a rib to a position below a horizontal crack. Move back right, into the corner and continue to good ledge beneath a pair of twin cracks running up the dierdre. Good bollard belay.
2. 20m. Climb the twin cracks, moving onto the right wall when near the top, then climb out onto a large ledge on the left. Good bollard belay.
3. 40m. Continue up the line. Move onto the left wall on approaching an overhang approximately half way up. Climb to a small ledge below a clean crack.
4. Climb the crack and continue up steeply. Toward the top the line divides. Take the left hand line for a metre or two and then move back into the right hand line, and emerge onto a large ledge. Belay.
5. 10m. Traverse back into the left hand line and continue to the top of the buttress - steep but with good holds.
Descent: The party abseiled off on the left of the buttress with darkness approaching. Given more time, the two previously mentioned pinnacles would be worthy of attention.
Future parties may find it convenient to combine pitches 1 & 2 and pitches 4 & 5. In the latter case the left hand line mentioned in pitch 4 would be followed to the top.
Lyle Closs, Reg Williams (Alt) 6/3/71.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="39"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="140m"
name="The Definite Article" new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="About 150m left of the trinity is a low buttress, 100m high with two pinnacles on it which are obvious from the right. This climb takes the strongest line up the sunny face of the high recessed buttress immediately to the right of this two pinnacle buttress. <br/>Start: To avoid a scrubby approach come in from the left. Scramble up to 2m below the low roof in the strong line marking the right hand boundary of the high recessed buttress. Start here. <br/>1. 45m. 17 Up the obvious line after the roof for 25m to below roof forming bottom of leaning black pillar. Pass this on the right and continue for 15m up beautiful features to belay at good small stance. <br/>2. 50m. 17 Continue up beautiful features, with spectacular easy bridging to pass first roof on left, and second roof on right. Continue up twin cracks, initially on left and stepping right into chimney when left crack fails. Belay on step. <br/>3. 45m. 17 Up 6m bodywidth which eases after chockstones. Continue up classic ridge to the top (variations on this pitch abound). <br/>Bruce Terry, Garn Cooper 11/1/2003">About 150m left of the trinity is a low buttress, 100m high with two pinnacles on it which are obvious from the right. This climb takes the strongest line up the sunny face of the high recessed buttress immediately to the right of this two pinnacle buttress.
Start: To avoid a scrubby approach come in from the left. Scramble up to 2m below the low roof in the strong line marking the right hand boundary of the high recessed buttress. Start here.
1. 45m. 17 Up the obvious line after the roof for 25m to below roof forming bottom of leaning black pillar. Pass this on the right and continue for 15m up beautiful features to belay at good small stance.
2. 50m. 17 Continue up beautiful features, with spectacular easy bridging to pass first roof on left, and second roof on right. Continue up twin cracks, initially on left and stepping right into chimney when left crack fails. Belay on step.
3. 45m. 17 Up 6m bodywidth which eases after chockstones. Continue up classic ridge to the top (variations on this pitch abound).
Bruce Terry, Garn Cooper 11/1/2003</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="170m" name="Thackeray" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Starts: in the corner just left of the base of the obvious right-trending line left of the Trinity.
1. 42m. Up corner to ledge on left wall.
2. 30m. Continue up corner through a couple of friendly bushes, over roof and up flaring corner above (crux). (This was led using two chocks for aid near the top due to the crack being full of dirt etc. Second arrived at a cleaned crack and climbed it free). Belay around left in grassy alcove.
3. 36m. Arm jam/layback up overhanging flake on right, then up steep grass to a thrutchy chimney. Up this to another paddock and belay. Not a good pitch.
4. 16m. Up double cracks above, then slabs on right to a small ledge.
5. 46m. Up sharp edge at left of belay, then follow left trending line to the surface. Beware of loose chock stones at exit.
John Burgess, Michael Steane (varied leads) 11/12/77.
PS: An old abseil sling was found just above the roof on the second pitch.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">The Trinity</text><text class="text"
guide.action="submit" guide.id="59" guide.page="0"
guide.type="text" new="false"
value="This is the most impressive part of Denison Crag.">This is the most impressive part of Denison Crag.</text><climb
extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="43"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="190m" name="No Blind"
new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="Start: Up the grassy gully behind the left hand and middle lines of the Trinity (the three impressive lines to the left of the obvious corner of Tommy). <br/>1. 48m. Be careful not to go out left. Belay at a small ledge in company with some friendly loose blocks. Pegs needed. <br/>2. 28m. Up to a scrubby comfortable ledge sort of thing. This pitch is as hard as it looks. <br/>3. 45m. Up to a tight hole below the first main overhang. A great pitch, and not desperate. <br/>4. 30m. Hang out and out and out then up to another good ledge. Gasp. That was the Crux. <br/>5. 42m. Up a trifle violently to the top of the pillar, then up and back right easily to the surface. <br/>Lyle Closs, Ian Lewis (alt) 27/12/73. <br/>Note it would be easy to do this climb in four pitches by extending the second pitch to a ledge halfway up the third and then climbing the second half of the third pitch with the fourth. Make sure you belay as high as possible on the first belay.">Start: Up the grassy gully behind the left hand and middle lines of the Trinity (the three impressive lines to the left of the obvious corner of Tommy).
1. 48m. Be careful not to go out left. Belay at a small ledge in company with some friendly loose blocks. Pegs needed.
2. 28m. Up to a scrubby comfortable ledge sort of thing. This pitch is as hard as it looks.
3. 45m. Up to a tight hole below the first main overhang. A great pitch, and not desperate.
4. 30m. Hang out and out and out then up to another good ledge. Gasp. That was the Crux.
5. 42m. Up a trifle violently to the top of the pillar, then up and back right easily to the surface.
Lyle Closs, Ian Lewis (alt) 27/12/73.
Note it would be easy to do this climb in four pitches by extending the second pitch to a ledge halfway up the third and then climbing the second half of the third pitch with the fourth. Make sure you belay as high as possible on the first belay. </climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="44"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="165m"
name="Blue Eyed Son" new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="Start: As for No Blind, but go right. The line is rather obvious. The middle line of the Trinity. <br/>1. 50m. Up to belay to the right of the crack. Severity depends on leg length. <br/>2. 33m. Up the unfortunate crack above. Strenuous and holdless (crux). <br/>3. 40m. Up to the overhang, and up yet again. The overhang is easy, but the bit above is very stretchy and exposed. It keeps on coming out. Belay on the nice ledge. <br/>4. 40m. The first little bit is a little sizzly, but the rest is easy to the top. <br/>Ian Lewis, Lyle Closs (alt, sort of) 26/12/73.">Start: As for No Blind, but go right. The line is rather obvious. The middle line of the Trinity.
1. 50m. Up to belay to the right of the crack. Severity depends on leg length.
2. 33m. Up the unfortunate crack above. Strenuous and holdless (crux).
3. 40m. Up to the overhang, and up yet again. The overhang is easy, but the bit above is very stretchy and exposed. It keeps on coming out. Belay on the nice ledge.
4. 40m. The first little bit is a little sizzly, but the rest is easy to the top.
Ian Lewis, Lyle Closs (alt, sort of) 26/12/73.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="45"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="175m" name="Aqualung"
new="false" number="" stars="***"
value="The right most line of the Trinity. To the left of Tommy. <br/>Start: The start of the line. <br/>1. 23m. Climb the chimney and continue, to belay below a corner. <br/>2. 40m. Finger jam the corner (crux), and bridge up as the standard eases, to a belay on the slab below the roofs. <br/>3. 27m. Move left past the overhangs, and arm jam up behind a large flake, and belay below an all to obvious corner. <br/>4. 40m. Climb the corner by finger jamming, bridging and laybacking (crux). Tension 6m right across the face of the pillar to a belay niche (or use a belay seat in the corner). <br/>5. 15m. Hand jam up over the bulge to a ledge. <br/>6. 30m. Continue easily to the top. <br/>Ian Lewis, Bryan (Hooks) Kennedy 28/12/73">The right most line of the Trinity. To the left of Tommy.
Start: The start of the line.
1. 23m. Climb the chimney and continue, to belay below a corner.
2. 40m. Finger jam the corner (crux), and bridge up as the standard eases, to a belay on the slab below the roofs.
3. 27m. Move left past the overhangs, and arm jam up behind a large flake, and belay below an all to obvious corner.
4. 40m. Climb the corner by finger jamming, bridging and laybacking (crux). Tension 6m right across the face of the pillar to a belay niche (or use a belay seat in the corner).
5. 15m. Hand jam up over the bulge to a ledge.
6. 30m. Continue easily to the top.
Ian Lewis, Bryan (Hooks) Kennedy 28/12/73</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="250m"
name="Tommy">Start: At the very bottom of the Trinity Buttress there is an obvious chimney leading (eventually) to a huge corner above it.
1. 35m. Up the chimney to belay under the obvious V-crack.
2. 35m. Up the crack, moving right at the top, then up to belay on top of pillar.
3. 40m. Up the funny crack, then across the obvious rising traverse to a chimney leading to a large sloping ledge. Belay at top of ledge.
4. 30m. Up the all to obvious crack in the corner to belay after the very awkward bit below the second awkward bit.
5. 40m. If it's getting dark, abseil. If not, up where the crack is to a beautiful huge ledge, and a lying down, lazy belay.
6. 35m. Climb to the top of the thing.
7. 25m. Jump across and climb to the top of the obvious clean jam crack.
L. Closs, I. Lewis 2/73.</climb><climb
extra="M1" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="60"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length=""
name="Visiting Earth" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="The Ridge Right Of Tommy was climbed by Stazewski and McMahon in the mid nineties at about grade 20 with a touch of aid.">The Ridge Right Of Tommy was climbed by Stazewski and McMahon in 1995, with a touch of aid.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Maggie May Buttress</text><climb
extra="(aka Palm of Pleasure)" grade="21" guide.action="submit"
guide.id="49" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="90m"
name="Hybrid Vigour" new="false" number="" stars="***"
value="On the wall left of Maxolon are two big continuous lines. This is the left of the two. <br/>Start: 4 m left of the line and up the gully is a short crack. Start here. <br/>1. 45m 20. Up 5 m, right 4 m into line. Straight up to belay about 10 m after the crux. <br/>2. 35m 21. Up and onto the big detached flake on the right. Now the fun begins. Up a few metres, then step left into space and follow the awesome line to belay on the vegetated ledge. <br/>3. 10m. Easily to the top. <br/>Allan Williams, Garn Cooper 1/12/2000.">On the wall left of Maxolon are two big continuous lines. This is the left of the two.
Start: 4 m left of the line and up the gully is a short crack. Start here.
1. 45m 20. Up 5 m, right 4 m into line. Straight up to belay about 10 m after the crux.
2. 35m 21. Up and onto the big detached flake on the right. Now the fun begins. Up a few metres, then step left into space and follow the awesome line to belay on the vegetated ledge.
3. 10m. Easily to the top. Alan Williams, Garn Cooper 1/12/2000.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" guide.action="submit" guide.id="50"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="100m" name="Maxolon"
new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="The corner on left wall of Maggie May. <br/>Simon Parsons, Kim Carrigan 3/82.">The corner on left wall of Maggie May.
Simon Parsons, Kim Carrigan 3/82.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="51"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="100m"
name="Maggie May" new="false" number="" stars="***"
value="A bitch of a route. <br/>Start: 100m right of the Trinity. An obvious line. <br/>1. 30m. Climb up short corners, trending left to below major corner system. <br/>2. 12m 17. Up short corner to a large bushy ledge. <br/>3. 20m 21. Tremor with intent as you move up the overhanging finger crack to a small resting place in bomb-bay chimney. Up this to small stance on the right. <br/>4. 20m 20. Continue up corner over two small roofs to belay. <br/>5. 20m 12. Up to top. <br/>Kim Carrigan, Ian Lewis (varied leads) 13/1/74.">A bitch of a route. Best done as a 45m grade 17 access pitch, followed by a 40m crux pitch (sensational), followed by a short easy escape pitch
Start: 100m right of the Trinity. An obvious line.
1. 30m. Climb up short corners, trending left to below major corner system.
2. 12m 17. Up short corner to a large bushy ledge.
3. 20m 21. Tremor with intent as you move up the overhanging finger crack to a small resting place in bomb-bay chimney. Up this to small stance on the right.
4. 20m 20. Continue up corner over two small roofs to belay.
5. 20m 12. Up to top.
Kim Carrigan, Ian Lewis (varied leads) 13/1/74.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="100m"
name="Sentimental Nonsense">Two pitches of hand to offwidth cracks up the right wall of Maggie May. Carrigan, Parsons</climb><text
class="heading3" guide.action="submit" guide.id="60"
guide.page="0" guide.type="text" new="false"
value="Wizard Buttress">Wizard Buttress</text><text
class="Discussion" guide.action="submit" guide.id="61"
guide.page="0" guide.type="text" new="false"
value="I am pretty sure Wizard Buttress is the buttress between Maggie May Buttress and Tranquil tower (aka Corkscrew Buttress).<br/>This is the only route I'm not sure of the location of:">I am pretty sure Wizard Buttress is the buttress between Maggie May Buttress and Tranquil Tower (aka Corkscrew Buttress). (This is the only route I'm not sure the location of - Garn)</text><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="150m"
name="Druid">Start: The easiest bit up the wall at the start of the best line on this buttress (Wizard Buttress), second on the right hand side of the crag.
1. 35m. Almost straight up the wall past an interesting short chimney to a belay below an obvious corner before the line leads out left.
2. 35m. Up a few moves, then out left, charge up again until a large ledge is reached. Don't belay here as there is one just as good 10m up. Belay up there.
3. 30m. Shoot up the back-leaning corner, then out left past an overhang or two, being careful not to go out left (HUH???). Belay below an overhanging block not far from the top.
4. 10m. Over the block and easily to the top.
5. 40m. Climb down the other side and up obvious corner to mainland.
I. Lewis, L. Closs 2/73.</climb><text
class="heading3" guide.action="submit" guide.id="62"
guide.page="0" guide.type="text" new="false"
value="Corkscrew Buttress">Tranquil Tower </text><text
class="text" guide.action="submit" guide.id="63" guide.page="0"
guide.type="text" new="false"
value="Aka Tranquil Tower. The northeastern most part of Denison crag.">Aka Corkscrew Buttress. The northeastern most part of Denison crag.</text><climb
extra="" grade="14" length="80m" name="Blue Lake" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Start: Just to the left of Tranquil Tower there is a gully with a large chockstone in it. Start at the foot of the chockstone.
1. 35m. Under the chockstone then onto the left wall. Up to a good stance.
2. 30m. Up!
3. 15m. Up to walk off ledge.
Basil Rathbone, John Burgess 27/1/80</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="59"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="110m" name="Ulster"
new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="Starts in big groove a few metres R of the divide between buttress and the tower. <br/>1) 40m 18. Bridge up groove with sparse but adequate pro. At 2/3 height step R to chimney. Scary grade 21 variant heads straight up. <br/>2) 25m 15. L up face above to ledge below summit tower. <br/>3) 45m 18. Up RH crackline to summit. <br/>Descend down back of tower downclimbing and abseiling. <br/>Robert McMahon, Norm Selby (alt) 1997. Pitch one variant G.Narkowicz 2004.">Starts in big groove a few metres R of the divide between buttress and the tower.
1) 40m 18. Bridge up groove with sparse but adequate pro. At 2/3 height step R to chimney. Scary grade 21 variant heads straight up.
2) 25m 15. L up face above to ledge below summit tower.
3) 45m 18. Up RH crackline to summit.
Descend down back of tower downclimbing and abseiling.
Robert McMahon, Norm Selby (alt) 1997. Pitch one variant G.Narkowicz 2004.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="12" length="80m" name="Out In The Cold"
new="false" number=""
stars="">On Tranquil Tower, right hand side.
Start: A wee way up the gully/scree slope. Aim for a slab with a crack in it perhaps a 1/3rd of the way up the buttress.
1. 27m. Up to the foot of the slab with crack in it.
2. 15m. Climb slab/crack.
3. 38m. To the top of the buttress.
Phil Robinson, Basil Rathbone and John Burgess (alt) 26/1/80</climb><text
class="heading2" guide.action="submit" guide.id="65"
guide.page="0" guide.type="text" new="false"
value="The Lake Cliffs">The Lake Cliffs</text><climb extra=""
grade="12" length="45m" name="Where Teeny Boppers Dare">The biggest line on the small cliffs above the lake. Like all the lines on this bit of cliff, it looks pretty grotty, but is actually quite good, being a mixture of slabs and overhangs in a huge corner.
Mick Steane, John Burgess 10/12/77.</climb></guide>
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