<guide> <text class="heading1">Broken Buttress </text> <text class="text">The short steep gully south of University Buttress is known as Fools Couloir, which from the top of the Pipes is sometimes mistaken for the descent route down Avalanche Couloir. Broken Buttress is a relatively low buttress bordering the south side of Fools Couloir. It culminates in a gendarmed ridge and has a spur running southeast. </text> <text class="text">Descent: If a descent of Fools Couloir is made, a tape abseil is required to reach the bottom. </text> <climb name="Rick the Redneck" stars="*" grade="18" length="25m" extra="">Three routes are found near the top of Fools Couloir and are best accessed from the summit. They are located on the gendamed ridge on the south western side of the couloir. The N. E. face of the highest gendarme is split by a fist crack. Follow this for 4m up to a bulge on the R wall. Step R below the bulge and climb the more appealing line 1m to the R. Follow the line to the top finishing L. Pete Steane, A. Adams, Nov. 1992. </climb> <climb name="Brand New Lies" stars="" grade="12" length="15m" extra="">Found on the next gendarme downhill from Rick the Redneck. Step off the boulder and climb the hand crack on the N. W. face. Follow the crack to the top. Rap off via the chockstone. Pete Steane, A. Adams, Nov. 1992. </climb> <climb name="Tired Clichés" stars="*" grade="18" length="20m" extra="">This is on the S. W. face of Brand New Lies gendarme. climb the layback crack and finish up either of the two lines. A. Adams, Pete Steane, Nov. 1992. </climb> <climb name="Crestline" stars="" grade="16" length="45m" extra="">Follows the nose a metre L of the base of Fools Couloir at a dirty groove that splits at 12m. Up the groove taking the L hand line. The unctuous crux at 15m was originally climbed with a point of aid. Continue to a platform and either traverse off to the R into Fools Couloir or continue up several easy pitches among the spires on the skyline ridge. U. Aurelli, D. Cox, P. Sands, Nov. 1961. FFA: P. Robinson, R. Mansfield, Sep. 1980. </climb> <climb name="Start Me Up" stars="" grade="19" length="30m" extra="">Press the go button. The lower pillar at the R hand end of Broken Buttress 5m L of Crestline. climb a finger/hand crack to the horizontal weakness halfway up the pillar. Move insecurely R and follow the arête just L of the Crestline groove, to the top. Abseil off or continue as for Crestline. N. Deka, S. Bunton, Nov. 1987. </climb> <climb name="Assault Course" stars="*Assault Course 20m 23 *" grade="23" length="20m" extra="Þ">A strenuous excursion that awaits a direct finish. From Start Me Up scramble up the gully 5m L to the base of the imposing orange wall capped by a huge block. Start at a hand crack on the R side of the smooth wall. climb the hand crack for 10m, step L to gain a finger crack, and follow this until forced R to a large ledge. Abseil off. N. Deka, S. Bunton, Nov. 1987. </climb> <climb name=" Seamstress" stars="**" grade="De" length="25m" extra="">Lovely climbing on the high orange wall L of Assault Course. The crux is near the top. Mostly on bolts but also requires some natural gear (#0 and #2.5 friend). Sam Edwards, Nov/95. </climb> <climb name="Spurline" stars="" grade="16" length="48m" extra="">The southeast spur of Broken Buttress. Seen from the Organ Pipes track it is the notched skyline spur. Start at the top of the first step on the spur. (1) 30m climb to the base of the crack which forms a direct line up the spur. Up this and a short crack on the R to a large platform. (2)18m Two options: a) Original Route: Up a short chimney, exit R and climb the L hand of two cracks. b) Direct Route: Follow a short jam crack to a large ledge, then climb the R hand crack. Either continue up the ridge, or traverse off R. FA: R. Alsop, M. Douglas, A. Keller, Mar. 1968. Direct finish: R. Mansfield, P. Robinson, Sep. 1980. </climb> <text class="heading1">Van Diemen Buttress </text> <text class="text">A narrow, sloping buttress well to the south. </text> <climb name="Van Diemen Buttress" stars="" grade="11" length="?" extra="">One of the earliest routes on the Pipes, generally following the crest of the buttress. climb the crest for two pitches until blocked by a short tower which is split by a crack on the R. Either climb this direct, or veer to the L before rejoining the crest via a short cleft. After another pitch along the crest a further gendarme blocks the way. climb halfway to the top, then either ascend the gendarme direct, or traverse around to the R to a ledge and continue either straight up the wall above or via the crack on the R. Various stages due to J. Elliott, M. Elphick, P. Hewitt, B. Higgins, P. Johnstone, J. Manning, 1959. </climb> <text class="heading1">Frustration Buttress </text> <text class="text">Background Information </text> <text class="text">Rock: Isolated dolerite buttress, about 30m high. </text> <text class="text">Access: Lies a kilometre to the south of the Organ Pipes. It is on the same level as the Pipes and has a conspicuous platform just above its base. To reach it, go to the confluence of the Organ Pipes and Zig Zag tracks, then head uphill. </text> <text class="text">climbing Info: Only a handful of routes to date, all trad. Walk off. </text> <climb name="F'er 111" stars="" grade="10" length="30m" extra="">From the track, climb halfway up the first gully to the R of the Buttress proper, until a conspicuous crag appears on the L. At the cliff base are two clumps of cutting grass, 6m apart. F'er 111 is the easy line above the L hand clump, just L of a small gully. (1) 18m Up the crack to the obvious belay below two short parallel jam cracks. (2) 12m Up the L hand crack (crux) then step into the R hand crack and continue to the top. (1) M. Steane, R. Roffe, Oct. 1973. (2) M. Steane, A. McGifford, Oct. 1975. </climb> <climb name="Terminal Germ" stars="" grade="11" length="33m" extra="">The prominent large crack line 5m L of F'er 111. (1) Straight up the crack to a large ledge, then up a short chimney. M. Steane, A. McGifford, Oct. 1975. </climb> <climb name="Midget Crack" stars="" grade="14" length="27m" extra="">The crack straight up the wall just R of Frustration Platform. (1) 12m climb the crack to a ledge. (2) 16m Jam up to the ledge, then up a narrow chimney to the top. G. Batten, A. Keller, Apr. 1968. </climb> <climb name="Frustration Platform" stars="" grade="11" length="30m" extra="">30m climb to the platform, make a short traverse to the R, then move up the narrow chimney which splits the upper wall. U. Aurelli, D. Cox, 1961. </climb> <climb name="Dominator" stars="*" grade="20" length="12m" extra="">Well worth the walk and visible from the Springs. Follows a line up the slab above Frustration Buttress, Pleasant face climbing up the thin line in the middle of slab. K. Robinson, A. Williams et al, Dec. 1997. </climb> </guide> |