<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide pagesize="1000"><header
access="North End
<br/>Cradle Mountain is about 1.5 hours (85 km) from Devonport. Take the B19 to Spreyton then the B14 through Barrington to Sheffield and then follow the C136 to Cethana continuing on till the C132 junction at Moina. Follow the C132 south for 19 km to the signposted turnoff to the park. From Launceston it is a 2.5 hour drive (181 km). Take the Bass Highway (A1) toward Devonport, then follow the signposted route via the B13 and C156 through to Sheffield and on to the C132. There is a shuttle bus for access from the Park entrance to Dove Lake and Waldheim.
<br/>Camping is not permitted in the day use area around Dove Lake and Cradle Mountain itself but there is a public campsite close to Pencil Pine Lodge.The only accommodation available within the Park is at the Waldheim Chalets (book through the Cradle Mountain Visitor Centre) or at the various huts dotted along the Overland Track. These are generally full in season and a tent should be carried.
<br/>
<br/>South End
<br/>Lake St Clair is about 2.5 hours (180 km) north-west of Hobart. Take the A10 (Lyell Highway) to New Norfolk and on to Derwent Bridge. Turn off here and travel the last 5km to the national park entrance. From Launceston it also about 2.5 hours (180km) to the park. Take Route 1 direction Devonport turning off to the A5 at Deloraine. Take the partly unsealed A5 over the Central Plateau to the Great Lake and Liawenee. 10km after Liawenee take the unsealed B11 past Bronte Park until you reach the A10. Turn west and drive a further 26km to Derwent Bridge and the turnoff to the park.
<br/>At Cynthia Bay there is a back-packer/ travellers hostel and camping sites. Bookings are essential in the summer season (03 6289 1137).
<br/>There is no direct road link between the two ends of the park. Tassielink (62717320 or 1300300520) runs bus services to/from both ends all year round and a ferry runs between Cynthia Bay at the southern end of the Lake and Narcissus Hut at the other end (03 62891137).
<br/>
<br/>For further information:
<br/>* TASMAP 1:25,000 map
<br/>* Cradle Mountain Day Walk Map & Notes 2000
<br/>* Lake St Clair Day Walk Map & Notes 1997
<br/>* 1:100 000 Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair Map & Notes 2001
<br/>* "Cradle Mountain Lake St Clair & Walls of Jerusalem National Parks" by John Chapman is the best bushwalking guidebook
<br/>* Cradle Mountain Visitor Centre - Ph: 03 6492 1110 
<br/>* Lake St Clair Visitor Centre - Ph: 03 6289 1172
<br/>* http://www.parks.tas.gov.au/"
acknowledgement="The Mt Geryon section is by Matt Perchard, originally published in Craglets. Some route descriptions from Chris Baxters 1984 Geryon Guide, Rock New Climbs 1997 by Rod Young, and Climb Northern Tasmania by Bob MacMahon and Gerry Narkowicz. The Cradle Mountain section and other material is from Tony McKenny, Ross Taylor, John Chapman, Nic Deka, Bob Hamilton and Steve Brown."
history="Gustav Weindorfer, the founder of Waldheim and the main driving force behind the declaration of the area as a National Park, first climbed Cradle with his wife Kathleen in 1910, some 82 years after the probable first ascent by Joseph Fossey. Over the next few years Weindorfer climbed all over the mountain, making the first winter ascent in 1924 with Charles Monds and Fred Smithies from Launceston. Fred founded the Northern Tasmanian Alpine Club and in the 1920s and 30s they ascended many of the gullies and faces, and specialised in daring jumps from pinnacle to pinnacle. The first recorded traverse of the full skyline, from Little Horn to the Summit, was made in 1914 by visiting Austrian mountain guides Franz Malcher and his brother Julius, an ascent that must rank as probably the first recorded rock climb in Tasmania and possibly in the country.
<br/>Years later, Ossie Ellis, an ex-saw miller turned mountaineer and conservationist, co-built Pencil Pine Lodge (now Cradle Mountain Lodge) and kept open house in the 1970s and early 80s for another generation of young climbers, mainly drawn from the north west coast. Bevis (Fred) Dutton and Steve Brown along with John Richardson, Robert (Bird) Hamilton, Nick Williams, (the chef at the Lodge), Tony McKenny, Nic Deka and Neale Smith made the hill their own, adding a number of exploratory rock climbs and hacking up and down the gullies and buttresses in winter. The area has also been a playground for cross-country skiers, with the most noticeable ski descents to date being those of Kim Robinson and Ian Wilson in 2003 who skied down the precipitous eastern (Rodway) face of the mountain. Bird Hamilton has the record for the fastest descent, however, when he fell down the gully behind Little Horn, travelling 200+m on snow and exiting with a bent crampon as the only damage. "The fall is etched in the memory! Very clear recollections of long periods of sailing through the air interspersed with thuds into the snow during the later part of the excursion! Only injury other than being a bit winded was I split the skin on the point of one hip, no big deal, I was expecting more..."
<br/>
<br/>Just getting to the crags in the south of the Park was a problem for the pioneers in the 60s, a problem cunningly circumnavigated by the purchase of a boat, the good ship "Venus", for the newly formed Climbers Club of Tasmania. The early history is full of stories that focus as much on the trials and tribulations of the weekend sailors as it does on their actual climbs. Nevertheless, significant new areas were opened up, particularly on Geryon and the Acropolis, by the likes of Tom Terry, Alan Cross, Reg Williams, Allan Keller, Phil Robinson, Bob Jones and Bernie Lyons resulting in some of the longest and most spectacular climbs in Tasmania. The Victorians were here a little later, in the late 1960s and early 1970s, with a youthful Chris Baxter, John Moore, Phil Stranger, Roland Pauligk, Glenn Tempest, Chris Dewhirst and the Gledhill brothers. New climbs continued to be discovered, if at a less hectic pace, with locals Col Hocking and Chris Rathbone joining the push, but in more recent times there have been few major additions other than the Sheild, a 450m 24 on the East Face of Geryon by Steve Monks and Jane Wilkinson.
<br/>Mind you, it is not beyond the realms of possibility that the first ascent of most climbing routes may well have been made previously by Galaxias brevipinnis, the extraordinary Climbing Galaxias, a fish found in tarns in the area with large fins and capable of climbing damp rocks...
<br/>
<br/>"
intro="The Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park forms part of the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area and is traversed by the world-famous overland track, a multi-day bushwalk about 80km long. At the north end, the jagged contours of Cradle Mountain dominate the skyline, while to the south is the deepest lake in Australia, Lake St Clair, carved out by ice during several glaciations over the last two million years.
<br/>The weather in this area is at its most stable during late summer and autumn. The Park receives a lot of rain annually, and sleet, snow and driving winds can occur at any time of the year. Check the weather forecasts at the Visitor Centres or by contacting the Bureau of Meteorology prior to departing (www.bom.gov.au).
<br/>If you want to walk right through the Park, bookings are required (1 November to 30 April) and during that period walkers are required to walk the track from North to South. However, if you access the track at other points or are only travelling part way along it, no bookings are required but Park fees do still apply. For further information see: www.overlandtrack.com.au
<br/>Climbing in the Park can only be described as undeveloped. If you want a wilderness climbing experience there are many cliffs of all sizes still to be explored. However,climbers are asked to respect the wilderness ethic and to stick to the principles of minimal impact bushwalking and climbing (no bolting for example). The WHA is also a fuel-stove only area."
name="Cradle Mountain - Lake St Clair" new="false"
rock="Alpine dolerite, up to 400m high"
sun="Mixed sun and shade"
walk="Half a day to several days bushwalking"></header><gps
new="true"><point code="GER010"
description="Bottom of scree slide above Mt Geryon campsite"
easting="421327" height="0" northing="5357224"
zone="55G"/><point code="GER020"
description="Top of scree slide above Mt Geryon campsite"
easting="421562" height="0" northing="5357356"
zone="55G"/><point code="CRA100"
description="Pencil Pine Buttress parking" easting="410969"
height="0" northing="5393937" zone="55G"/><point
code="CRA110" description="Pencil Pine Buttress"
easting="411163" height="0" northing="5394031"
zone="55G"/></gps>
<text class="heading2"
new="false">Cradle Mountain Area</text><text
class="indentedHeader"
new="false">Intro: The steep and jagged profile of Cradle Mountain is one of the iconic images of Tasmania and the most popular (and publicised) destination for visitors interstate and from around the world. Ice has ground and gouged out deep valleys and left soaring dolerite spires and knife-edge arêtes. This is the domain of the mountaineer rather than the rock climber as on closer inspection the columnar dolerite proves to be rather broken and the lower quartzite cliffs are often difficult to reach in thick, steep scrub. The weather can be continuously lousy too but in a good winter the world transforms and, in the right conditions, it can all get quite exciting.</text><text
class="indentedHeader"
new="false">Access: The start of most walking tracks is either at the Ronny Creek Car Park in Cradle Valley, about five km south from the Park's information Centre or a kilometre further on down the road at the Dove Lake Car Park. It is probably best to use the shuttle bus as there may not be any available parking space actually in the Park but check the time of the last bus if you are planning a long day. Climbs are described from L to R, clockwise, round the Lake.</text><text
class="heading3" new="false">Pencil Pine Buttress</text><text
class="text"
new="false">This small quartzite crag is actually located just inside the Park boundary, before you reach Cradle Valley. Drive a couple of hundred metres towards the mountain from the Visitor's Centre and park just before Stony Creek (signposted - GPS CRA100). An old track leads off left through button grass towards the crag. The path enters a scrag of forest and just past the first low lichenous wall is a corner.
The crag was first climbed on by a legendary NW climber, Ossie Ellis. Ossie was a co-founder of what is now called Cradle Mountain Lodge. A saw miller by trade, he was a keen conservationist in later life and a late but dedicated convert to rock climbing and mountaineering. There are two climbs to date but there is at least one line still crying out to be done. Descend by abseil (tape) or by walking back off to the south.
</text><climb
extra="" grade="11" length="30m" name="Ossie's Climb"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Climbs the dirty corner, curving R at the top. Ossie Ellis, early 1970s.
</climb><text
class="text"
new="false">Continue on round the base of the cliff and take the RH branch past steeper, clean walls, with a jutting arête, to a wide bay split by a chimney high on the R (GPS CRA110).
</text><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="40m" name="Footless Currawong"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Up short, dirty wall on the L, and walk R along the ledge to the corner. Climb the corner into the chimney, and continue up until forced out to crack above. Follow to top. Tony McKenny and Steve Brown, 1978. FFA Nic Deka and Neale Smith, 1979 
</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false">Hansons Peak</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false" src="hansons peak.jpg"
width="500"/><text class="text"
new="false">Located on the east side of Dove Lake, Hansons Peak has an impressive sweep of slabs reaching nearly to the summit. On closer inspection, however, the quartzite rock proves to be rather broken but still offers some interesting slab climbing with great views over the lake to Cradle Mountain.
From the Dove Lake carpark, take the Lakeside Track eastwards for about a kilometre until just opposite, or a little past, Marions Lookout. Cut up to the toe of the slab through the rain forest… descend by the Hansons Peak track.
</text><climb
extra="" grade="10" length="150m+" name="Blandfordia"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Takes a meandering line up the most continuous section of rock, finishing just below the summit. John Richardson and Tony McKenny, 1977.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false">Cradle Mountain</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false" src="cradle.jpg" width=""/><text
class="text"
new="false">Originally called Ribbed Mountain, with its serrated skyline of gendarmes and gullies, Cradle Mountain's profile has attracted mountaineers and rock climbers since the first ascent of the mountain back in 1828. This was the scene of what is probably the first recorded rock climb in Australia, when two visiting Austrian Mountain Guides traversed the complete ridge from east to west, including Little Horn, in 1914.
Follow the Hansons Peak track from the Dove Lake car park to the Rangers Hut, about 1 hours walk. Just past the Hut, turn onto the Face Track heading back west and after climbing up through the Permian conglomerates that separate the quartzite and the more recent dolerite, head up back L, to the east end of Little Horn. A number of short but unrecorded climbs have been made on the north side of Little Horn by Peter and Roger Booth.</text><climb
extra="" grade="3+" length="1km" name="Skyline Traverse"
new="false" number=""
stars="">One of the best mountaineering routes in Tasmania. Climb up to the summit of Little Horn and then follow the main ridge all the way to the Cradle Mountain summit. There are two abseils, one off Little Horn to the main col and the other down into the top of Dorfers Gully from Weindorfer's Tower. At times there are small pads to follow but there are many pillars to climb and descend if you want: the choice of routes is yours, depending on how long you want to take or how hard you want to make it. Descend down the main tourist track. Franz and Julius Malcher, 1914. </climb><text
class="text"
new="false">On the east end of Weindorfer's Tower, to the R of the main col separating the Tower from Little Horn, is an impressive and reasonably obvious corner, with a very clear white splodge of lichen on the rock, high up.
Access the corner from the Face Track which can be joined either via Hansons Peak track or more directly via the Lakeside Track/Lake Wilks Track.</text><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="70m" name="Airborne Skink"
new="false" number=""
stars="">On the east end of Weindorfer's Tower, to the R of the main col separating the Tower from Little Horn, is an impressive and reasonably obvious corner, with a very clear white splodge of lichen on the rock, high up. Start directly below the splodge.
1) Scramble up to the bottom of the R facing groove.
2) Bridge and layback the groove, past a small roof.
3) Scramble off and to the L to join the main ridge. Descend back down the ridge to the col. Nic Deka and Steve Brown, 1978</climb><text
class="text"
new="false">The early pioneers climbing in the 1920s and 30s clambered all over the main ribs and gullies. One more continuous line was put up on the main face of Weindorfer's Tower in the 1970s but many others have been unrecorded.</text><climb
extra="" grade="12" length="300m" name="Midnight Cowboy"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Starting at the toe of the buttress, the line wends it's way up to finish on the summit. Climbers Union of Northern Tasmania 1977.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false">Fury Gully Face</text><text
class="text"
new="false">Some of the most continuous rock is found on the Fury Gully Face, on the western flanks of the mountain, above the Fury Gorge. From Kitchen Hut, (about 2 hours from Ronney Creek car park), continue south along the Overland Track for a bit over a kilometre to the small creek at the head of the Fury Gorge (to your R). Scrub bash up from here (L) to the base of the cliff and find a pillar that protrudes at its top to form a prow.Only two routes have been recoded here to date, but there is obviously room for more. Descend down Fury Gully to the south or by the main tourist track.
</text><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="230m" name="Insha Allah" new="false"
number=""
stars="">1) 50m. Quite pleasent corners lead to a spectacular perch under the roofs of the prow. Jam through the roof (crux) and then traverse R to a belay stance.
2) 50m. Nice rambling pitch with interesting sections.
3) 30m. Run the rope out on rock of similar quality.
4) 100m. Solo to the summit or break it up into a series of short pitches (up to Grade 16).
Neale Smith and Bob McMahon (alt.), 14 Nov 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="250m" name="Edge of Chaos"
new="false" number=""
stars="">L of Insha Allah, up to the big corner to the R of the Pillar, then from the top of the Pillar up the face to a smal roof.
1) 40m 16. Fairly easy with some grade 16 sections.
2) 25m 17. The steepness begins with a rather awkward corner with shards of rock in the back. The rock quality improves with some nice jamming to a stance below the top of the Pillar.
3) 45m 19. The crux pitch is sustained, steep face climbingabove the Pillar on shaky holds and an occasional poor jam. Protection is reasonable with a crucial #1 Friend palcement in a pocket. The climbing eases off uo tp the little roof which is turned on the Leasily to a small ledge. Frightening face climbing follows on very loose flakes and holds.
4) 50m. Two beautiful corners, one above the other, lead to easy ground.
5) 100m. Solo to the summit or break it up into a series of short pitches (up to Grade 16).
Bob McMahon and Neale Smith (alt.), 14 Nov 1982.
</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false">Marions Lookout</text><text
class="text"
new="false">From the Dove Lake Carpark, follow the Lakeside track along the western shore, past the boat shed and turn R up the Marions Lookout track. There are several small quartzite buttresses below the summit but only one recorded climb to date.</text><climb
extra="" grade="12" length="40m approx" name="Plastic Rain Coat"
new="false" number=""
stars="">So named after the artifact found at the start! Plastic Raincoat takes the longest line on the large quartzite cliff below and to the north of Marion’s Lookout. Walk in from the Marion’s Lookout track, cutting left where the track steepens, and contouring round through the scrub to the base of the crag. The climb starts right at the lowest point and takes a line straight up, finishing just to the right of the top. One pitch and the crux was near the top mainly due to loose rock and dubious protection, certainly not the difficulty of the moves. Steve Brown and Bevis (Fred) Dutton. 1976. 

</climb><text
class="text"
new="false">Below Marions, on the north side, are some obvious slabs, again of quartzite. These were christened by the late John Woods as the "Saraman Slabs" after the character in Lord of the Rings. At various times, the Climbers Union of Northern Tas members free climbed over the whole area without recording any particular routes. 
From the Dove Lake carpark, follow the Lakeside track on the west side but turn off to Lake Lilla after 300m.Continue past the lake and then climb up to Wombat Pool. The track above the Pool joins the main Overland Track at the col: scrub bash L (east) across to the slabs. Descent by traversing back west to the main track.</text><text
class="heading3" new="false">Winter Climbing</text><text
class="text"
new="false">In a good winter i.e. one where there is snow and freezing conditions, an increasing rarity today, the mountain can offer exciting winter climbing. Since the first winter ascent in 1924, most of the gullies and ridges have been climbed and the main gullies skied down. Snow holes in the massive drifts that can form on the flanks above Kitchen Hut and below Smithies Peak have been the traditional base for climbing, and the most popular gully is Dorfers, leading up to Weindorfer's Tower when conditions are good. The Skyline Traverse can be a major undertaking, taking a full day.</text><climb
extra="" grade="" length="" name="Terror Australis" new="false"
number=""
stars="">"The route takes a line up the southwest corner of the mountain. The route is easily seen when snow covers the mountain as this distinguishes the series of steep gullies/ramps that lead from the start of the route to the summit". Nic Deka and Nick Williams, August 1978.

</climb><text
class="text"
new="false">For further details on skiing see:
http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Backcountry+Skiing</text><climb
new="true"/><text class="heading2"
new="false">Barn Bluff</text><text class="indentedHeader"
new="false">Intro: Barn Bluff (1559m), Tasmania's fourth highest mountain, dominates the views to the west with it's bold, square-shaped profile. </text><text
class="indentedHeader"
new="false">Access: Located about 5km south of Cradle Mountain, it is a long days walk from Dove Lake and access is usually as a day walk from Waterfall Valley Hut. Alternatively, camp or bivi close to the climbing but you may need to take water. Continue past Benson Peak at the south end of the Cradle Mountain ridge along the Cradle Cirque and then follow the track along Bluff Cirque for about 1.5km. 
There has been at least one route done on Barn Bluff. Descend via the normal walking route.</text><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="45m" name="Barnstorming" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Climb scree on track, then traverse to top of greenery at base of cliff. Double ropes useful. Climb prominent R crack in middle of face (belay on L - slightly protected by overhanging block) until a few m below overhand. Traverse L to next crack. Up this to near overhang, then traverse R at angling ribs on R (Don't touch loose blocks!) Up to top of block, then crack. Top is well below by main summit which can be reached by 'interesting' traverse along ridge. Dayle Gilliatt, Phil Dolan 6 Feb 1989.
</climb>
<text
class="heading2" new="false">Mt Oakleigh</text><text
new="true"/>
<text class="indentedHeader"
new="false">Intro: Mt Oakleigh (1286m) is a particulalry prominent peak due to the pinnacled ridge leading to the summit which are visible from much of the northern end of the Overland Track. The big ridge of is reputably a classic alpine jaunt and you can make it easier or harder by avoiding some of the gendarmes. Allow a full day from New Pelion hut.</text><text
class="indentedHeader"
new="false">Access: 
The quickest access to Mt Oakleigh is via the Arm River Track or from Lees Paddocks rather than following the Overland Track. Pelion Hut is a good base. One way is to follow the Arm River Track north from the hut for 400m and cross over the Douglas Creek. Head across the wet button grass plain and contour round under the cliffs in the forest to the toe of the ridge. Alternatively, follow the old Wolfram Mines Track north from the Old Pelion Hut for about a kilometre, and then cut up to the ridge line. Descend via the main walking track back east then south.</text><climb
extra="" grade="" length="350m" name="Oakleigh Pinnacle Ridge"
new="false" number=""
stars="">This description is based on "An Ascent of Oakleigh Pinnacle Ridge" by Mike Douglas, CCT Circular 1977.
1. Initial steep 150m buttress done in 8 pitches, a little to the north of the direct line.
2. A short abseil leads to the base of the second obstacle, a 50m pinnacle much the same size as the Buttress Pinnacle on he Organ Pipes. A line of easy cracks and chimneys on the north side lead to an airy summit. The only difficulty was the final move past a very awkward bulging chockstone.
3. Two abseils and a long traverse beneath two minor pinnacles put you on top of the massive tower which is the most prominent feature of the upper section of the ridge. There is an easy route on the back of the tower.
4. Thread your way through uppermost set of pinnacles to the foot of the 40m exit chimney which leads to the summit plateau (the tallest of these pinnacles could probably be climbed via an impressive cleft).
Mike Douglas, Chris Viney, Feb 1977 (with bivy). Reg Williams and John Moore ascended part of the ridge previously. The route can be completed in a day with an early start, and easy escape is possible at several places.</climb>
<text
class="heading2"
new="false">Cathedral Mountain
</text><text
class="indentedHeader"
new="false">Intro: Cathedral Mt presents a tantalising wall of rock as you walk along the Overland Track south from Kia Ora Hut. The geology of the cliffs, however, very much dictates the climbing here. Most of the cliff is undercut - the base is actually the bottom of the dolerite and has very few cracks - and to climb across the blank-looking roofs anywhere to get onto the main cliff would be very, very hard - no easy routes here! The only recorded route to date used the easiest and probably only spot you can readily get onto the main cliff and that was via a huge flake that had fallen off, and this provided a bridge onto the main cliff thus avoiding climbing the desperate looking undercut. The cliff above the flake also looked like it had enough cracks to be only of moderate grade and that was significant as well as some sections were fairly blank looking. Subsequent would-be climbers have so far been repulsed by the overhangs and lack of protection in the fused cracks. 
</text><text
class="indentedHeader"
new="false">Access: Access isn't simple. John Chapman started from the end of the Mersey Road near Moses Creek and "there was then no track so we climbed through forest to Chapter Lake then westwards onto Cathedral Mountain - roughly the route of the current day tracks except we went around the south side of Chalice Lake". Alternatively, follow the Overland Track north and cross the Mersey River if you can by the chockstone below Fergusson Falls .
</text><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="300m" name="Exit Peals" new="false"
number=""
stars="">"The climb is fairly easy to find. About a quarter of the way (very rough estimate) along the base from the northern end is the huge flake and this is near the base of the arête between the north facing and north-western facing cliffs (I think its just south of the arête proper) - its not hard to find as its the only one! We climbed directly up from there in a straight line and the cracks were initially thin with lots of bridging etc then as we got higher the crack widened into a chimney. As time was getting on, we did the top third solo but that was under grade 10. The flake and lower part of the cliff we graded as 16. My notes show that we basically followed the arête between the north-western facing side and the western facing side and the climb probably tops out at close to the 1387 spot height that appears on the Cathedral Map (Tasmap 1:25 000 Cathedral and Du Cane)".
John Chapman and Joe Friend, January 6th 1975. 
</climb><text
new="true"/>
<text class="heading2"
new="false">Mt Geryon</text><text class="indentedHeader"
new="false">Intro: The cliffs of Mt Geryon and The Acropolis provide absolutely exceptional climbing "on the wild side". Many of the routes have had few ascents, so obviously take appropriate precautions - the seriousness of accidents is high, with help a good days walk away. The downside of the climbing is twosome.
Firstly, expect the usual foul weather. Multiple trips before even laying chalk to rock are hardly uncommon (no joke). Secondly, packs full of camping and climbing gear are good "fun".
Described below are the classic traverses - and not to be missed! The north to south direction is the norm, but is has been done the other way, both ways in a day, and even in winter. This is a classic day in the mountains, with nothing too serious to stop competent climbers. The crags were written up in the 1984 issue of Australian Rock and a guidebook was later published by Chris Baxter in 1999. Refer to that guide for full details of all climbs. The route descriptions have been reproduced here, however more detail around access etc is needed. If anyone has high resolution photos (4+ megapixels) of these faces suitable for topos please send them in.</text><text
class="indentedHeader"
new="false">Access: 
Mt Geryon North-to-South Traverse: Ideally the best camping is probably straight up from Geryon campsite at the Pool of Memories. Walk to the Geryon campsite, cross the stream, and then follow the scree for 15mins onto the Labyrinth, heading slightly right to the first lake.
Mt Geryon West Face: The best bet is to camp at the Geryon Campsite. From Pine Valley Hut start as for the Acropolis summit track. About 20mins from Pine Valley Hut is a long log bridge over a creek. Just past this there is a fallen tree on the track left with a v-notch cut in to it and a sign indicating the direction to the Acropolis. Hop over this tree and follow the track that continues into the bush, generally following the creek. There is a mixture of track markers along this track: red and white blazes and various coloured flagging tape. The track is blocked in places by windfall and at times is directly beside the creek while sometimes skirting around uphill from the creek a fair way. Keep trusting the markers and you will end up at the Geryon campsite which shows obvious signs of human habitation. If you lose the markers, stick to following the sound of the creek.
.
</text>
<text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Mt Geryon West Face</text><image new="false"
noPrint="false" number="null." src="geryon2.png"
width=""/>
<climb extra="" grade="" length=""
name="North Peak Normal Route"
stars="">From the Cephissus scree chute traverse N below the cliffs of the South Peak. From near the foot of the Foresight descend a large gully and continue N under the cliffs of the North Peak to a scree gully. From the top of this go S along the level ridge and down to a saddle. Scramble up S to the N summit of the peak.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="12" length="307m" name="Damocles" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Obvious line on the SW face of Mt Geryon's North Peak leading to the gap between the North Peak and the turret to the N. Start below a dark corner.
1) 35m Go diagonally R up the R-slanting corner to just below a scree slope
2) 23m Go diagonally L across the scree and L round a large block to below two corners.
3) 33m From the ledge 3 m above, take the L line for 3 m. Go into the R line and follow it to a large ledge at 16 m. Traverse 7 m L and up to a stance.
4) 40m (crux) Climb the line on the R to a ledge at 16 m. Go up L to a large ledge below a sleep wall. Jam the crack in this to a ledge then up and R to a long vegetated corner ledge, below the Sword!
5) 37m Traverse 5 m R to the scrubby line. Climb it for 5 m and move L under a bulge. Go up for 7 m to a vegetated ledge which leads L to a tight chimney which is climbed for 13 m to a large flake on the L
6) 43m The gully to the gap.
7) 36m Head towards the summit, deviating slightly L on a thin flake at about 13 m.
8) 36m Continue up, veering R to a large ledge.
9) 24m To summit (slab).
Rob Taylor, Jerry Grandage, Daryl Carr, varied leads, 27 Jan 1968.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="106m" name="Damocles Direct"
new="false" number=""
stars="">1) 38m (crux) Bridge the dark corner to a ledge on the R at 23m. Go up to a large grassy ledge.
2) 40m Scramble up for 7 m. Climb the L crack. Go up ledges to above a corner
3) 28m Climb L of the crack to a large ledge (the fourth belay of Damocles). Climb the corner (up the Sword) and through bushes. Belay in the corner at the R end of a bushy ledge.
4)-8) Climb the crack at the L end of the ledge which is the "tight chimney" on the fifth pitch of Damocles. The rest of this route is more or less as for Damocles.
Clive Parker, Roger Caffin (alt), 23 Feb 1968. Alan and Geoff Gledhill did the first free ascent of pitch one (originally 12, M3), 22 Jan 1969.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="9" length="91m" name="Foresight Normal Route"
new="false" number=""
stars="**">An excellent outing into exciting country. Scramble up the huge gully below the West face of the South Peak and head for a chimney leading to the Foresight/North Peak notch.
1) 25m Crux. Climb the chimney then scramble to the notch.
2) 35m Go up the West side of the Foresight to a step on the skyline overlooking the East face.
3) 30m Exposed but easy climbing on the East side to the top.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="40m" name="Swiss Guide" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Head up the square corner from the Foresight-South Peak notch. Above the sloping ledge, follow the crack up the corner past two bulges. Ascend the east face for the last 3m.
P.Schwitter, S.Bunton, G.Jordan, Mar 1988.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="14" length="182m" name="A Common Thirst"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Start on the NW face of the South Peak about 20 m R of the prominent chimney-gully a short way SW of the col between the South Peak and the Foresight; at an easy looking chimney-gully
1) 27m Up R side of chimney. When it steepens go R round the arete and up to the end of an obvious R-leaning diagonal.
2) 25m Scramble up slightly L. Climb the crack in the R wall of the corner. Go towards prominent slabs up R. Traverse R across a bushy ledge and climb a short corner to a large ledge below a slab.
3) 25m Reverse the corner and traverse. Climb the R wall of the obvious corner until forced L to the arete. Go up arêtes and corners lending towards L side of headwall. Good ledge with blocks.
4) 15m Up to next ledge. Step L round the arête and climb the wall to a large ledge at the foot of a grassy ramp.
5) 50m Go along the ramp to the first line. Up the gully into a corner and up it.
6) 30m Climb the wall above for 2 m or so and go L to a groove. Go up past blocks and a small roof to a long narrow ledge below the headwall.
7) 10m (crux) From the L end of the fault, climb the wall, stepping L at the top.
Kieran Loughran, John Stone (alt), January 1979.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="12" length="114m" name="Vulcan" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Start in the gully 45m below the base of the Foresight.
1) 21m Up and diagonally R.
2) 15m Cracks to big blocks.
3) 18m Diagonally L round scrubby corner then diagonally R.
4) 18m Up slabs then diagonally R for 8 m on easier ground.
5) 20m Up obvious line to R of overhangs.
6) 18m Up to grassy gully leading to top. Tom Terry and Alan Cross, 1967.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="170m" name="Solantic" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Starts from the gully leading to the Foresight-South Peak col.
1) Climb the NW face
2) Traverse R to the W face proper
3) Slab and corner
4) (crux) Chimney and off-width
5) Easy gully to N end of the South Peak. Kim Bischoff, Grant Dixon, Phil Robinson, varied leads Christmas 1979.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="13" length="175m" name="West Wall Eliminate"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Start below the big corner in the middle of the W face of the South Peak.
1) 37m Climb the corner and continue up the narrow, slanting slab. Now up to a big ledge.
2) 43m Traverse L and climb the corner. Step L and climb the diagonal crack to a small, slanting ledge.
3) 37m Go up the main corner to a huge block 12 m below the roof
4) 33m (crux) Go up for 2 m. Traverse L across the steep wall. Follow the corner diagonally L to a good ledge.
5) 25m The crack above. Chris Dewhirst, Roland Pauligk, John Moore, varied leads, 24 Feb 1967.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="235m" name="Bad Craziness"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Start at the grass terrace 50m right of the West Wall Eliminate and above a small cairn.
1) 45m Climb a short corner with an awkward start, then easily up left and straight up (still easy) to a ledge 15m below a major corner.
2) 40m Move up to the corner, then follow it for a few moves (it becomes an overhanging chimney further up). Exit up left to a ramp. Continue up to a ledge.
3) 35m Continue up left in the line then climb the wall above at the first opportunity, passing just left of a pinnacle of loose rock. Continue up to a stance.
4) 40m The easy (but loose) line leads straight up, via a short excursion to the left, to the ledge above the V chimney.
6) 30m Continue up the chimney-gulley over loose blocks to exit up left in a black groove which leads (unpleasant and loose) to the southwest corner of the summit plateau (this nasty section is best avoided by continuing through the easy chimney above the last belay until it joins the descent route from the peak). C.Baxter, D.Gairns, G.Talbett, Jan 89.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="13 A1" length="123m" name="Elf" new="false"
number=""
stars="">On the S face of the South Peak are two cracks. Elf starts from a sloping grass ledge below the L crack which it follows diagonally L to the top of the SW face.
1) 33m Climb the corner using aid (presumably one point) at the overhang. Continue up slab to gully.
2) 36m Up the gully to a large ledge on L.
3) 33m (Crux) Strenuously up the R crack to a large sloping ledge
4) 21m The L line; a tight chimney. Tony Crapper, John Bennet, varied leads, Gordon Talbett, 1 Mar 1968.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="9" length="46m" name="Pixie" new="false"
number=""
stars="">The crack R of Elf is reached after a 40m slab scramble and a traverse.
1) 30m (crux) The line involves a thrutch in a V crack
2) 16m The line. Bruno Zeller, Tony Crapper, Feb 1968.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="4"
name="South Peak Normal Route">From the head of the scree chute leading down to the Geryon campsite, scramble up right to pick up a route to the bivouac cave above and north of the Acropolis-Geryon saddle. Go directly above the cave and scramble north below the west cliffs of the South Spur. Drop down a steep gully below the northwest arete of the South Spur into another gully which leads to the col between the South Peak and the South Spur. Go up to just below the col, then either traverse easily on the west side below the ridge, until you can scramble up to a large slab, or alternately, follow the skyline ridge (exposed) from the col to a slab. Climb the slab and gullies to the top.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="43m" name="Better Judgement"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Follow the scree slope to the top, then scramble up the prominent gully to large block with wide, vertical crack on L.The climb follows this crack system to the top.
1) 8m (16) Crack to large ledge.
2) 25m 18) Crack, then step R to prominent twin cracks. Climb these to ferny ledge.
3) 10m (18) Step R, then L. Up R side of orange flake. Wander off...
3a) Direct Finish 12m (21) Instead of wandering off L, step R on to large ledge and more greenery. Climb clean crack and overhanging V-groove to awkward exit. (Fixed wire may still be in situ).
Dayle Gilliatt, Phil Dolan 31 January 1989.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="12" length="100m" name="Morning Tea" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Enjoyable and straightforward, this route climbs the middle of the N wall of the South Spur. Start in the gully about 50 m below the South Peak-South Spur notch.
1) and 2) Straight up the wall in a series of steps to the NW arête.
3) 15m Arête. Chris Rathbone, Phil Robinson varied leads, 25 Feb 1983.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="102m" name="Piece of Cake"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Follows the NW arête of the South Spur. Start from the col before the drop to the gully leading to the South Peak-South Spur notch.
1) 24m (crux) Start on the L of the face and move R to a ledge at 15 m. Move to R side of face and climb thin diagonal cracks to a big ledge.
2) 27m Climb up from the R edge of the arête and aim for the L of the sharp arete above. Belay on ledge above arête.
3) 36m Up L of main arête.
4) 15m Up to summit. Allan Keller and Terry Costigan, 7 Dec 1967.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="4" length="" name="South Spur Normal Route"
number=""
stars="">From the Acropolis-Geryon saddle follow the skyline ridge moving out over E face (exposed) where necessary. Mostly scrambling (FA details unknown)
</climb><text
class="text"
new="false">For more information on the following traverses, refer to Roger's topo at the beginning of this section.</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="310m"
name="Geryon Traverse - South to North" new="false" number=""
stars="***">1) Climb the South Spur Normal Route. Go to the north end of the summit.
2) 75m Abseil 35m then climb down 40m to the col between the peaks.
3) Along the skyline to the South Peak. From its north tip climb down 12m to a ledge.
4) 35m Abseil to the South Peak/Foresight col.
5) 15m Go to a vertical crack under the L end of a large sloping slab. Get onto the slab and move R to overlook the east face. Fixed peg belay.
6) 15m Step to the R across an exposed corner. Continue up more easily to a bushy ledge.
7) 10m To the summit.
8) 65m Reverse the last two pitches of the Foresight Normal Route to the col.
9) 20m Go R a couple of metres. Climb an easy crack. Traverse L over slabs and go up to a large ledge.
10) 40m Go up steeply to a ledge at 5m. L along that ledge and then up 3m R of a corner. Move up and across L to the corner. Continue L to a chimney and climb it.
11) 35m Easily to the summit of the North Peak.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="140m"
name="Geryon Traverse - North to South" new="false" number=""
stars="***">An amazing, but fairly easy, undertaking. Not to be missed!
Start at the edge of the North Peak, overlooking the void. Abseil 45m to the big ledge, from the huge block, taking care to have the ropes over the edge (4m sling required) - amazing stuff! Abseil or downclimb the remaining 20m to the col.
1) 35m Climb pitch two of the Foresight Normal Route.
2) 30m Climb pitch three of the Foresight Normal route.
3). From the south end of the Foresight, abseil 40m to the col. At the col, still on abseil, walk down the rocks a further 5m R, to the chimney line of pitch four.
4) 25m Climb the obvious direct line 8m right of the nose of the South Peak using four points of aid. Go up the easy chimney to below a large overhang.
5) 35m Climb round R of the overhang. Move L and up to the ridge crest and summit. (Alternately, the previous pitch can be stretched out to 45m and an airy belay, leaving a simple 15m to finish).
6) Walk along the top of the South Peak, then reverse (descend) the South Peak Normal Route to the col. Scramble diagonally R then L over easy rock to the gully which leads to the summit of the South Spur.
7) Descend the South Spur Normal Route.</climb>
<text
class="heading3" new="false">Mt Geryon East Face
</text><text
class="text"
new="false">Routes here are best accessed from a bivvy cave known as "Heim" that is directly under the east face. To get there from Pine Valley Hut, follow the track to the Acropolis summit and descend into the Acropolis-Geryon saddle (short downclimb section). Drop off the saddle on the east side and skirt under Geryon East Face to Heim. Heim accommodates 3 people comfortably and it has a water source about 100m further north and down the hill slightly.</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="14" length="193m"
name="East Face of the South Spur (Original Route)" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Start R of the distinctive orange streaks and L of the big corner.
1) 37m A series of cracks and corners.
2) 30m Straight up for 21 m then diagonally L to just below and R of a sentry box.
3) 12m Traverse 6 m L. Climb the corner past a large tree.
4) 37m Climb the chimney above to an attractive flake. From the scrubby ledge at 18 m, go up to the base of a V corner.
5) 37m (crux) Traverse 2 m R and go up the diagonal crack for 12 m. Climb the corner above and go diagonally L to a slanting, scrubby ledge. 6) 40 m Wander up to hit the ridge 30 m S of the summit.
John Moore, Chris Dewhirst (alt), 18 Feb 1967.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="14 A1" length="371m"
name="East Face of the South Peak (Original Route)" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Start by scrambling up a short gully to a chimney below the South Peak-Foresight col.
1) 48m The chimney to a scree slope.
2) 39m Across L on scree to the foot of the huge ramp.
3) 33m Up ledges on the L arête of the ramp to a ledge with loose blocks just L of the main corner. Piton belay (fixed).
4) 33m The corner to a good ledge.
5) 30m Straight up for 20 m on steep scrub. Up and L on grass to a bollard.
6) 35m Traverse L (grass) for 10 m to a corner which is climbed to a bushy ledge.
7) 33m L on bushes, then up a slab before moving back R to a ledge with a fixed peg belay.
8) 30m Go R for 7 m to a bushy corner which is climbed, over a large flake, to a good ledge.
9) 26m Go diagonally L (easy) to a peg belay on the L wall of a vegetated corner.
10) 23m (crux) Climb the corner (two piton runners) (or make an early excursion on to the dirty R wall) which eases (still bushy) to a ledge and bolt anchor.
11) 26m Go up the gully for 6 m to fork to L. Climb overhanging loose blocks and go up the corner (fixed peg runners) and move L to a small stance on the face. Tension L from a fixed peg to a bolt which is used to lower into the gully on L (peg belay).
12) 15m The easy but loose gully.
Allan Keller, Tom Terry, Mike Douglas, leads unknown 6 Mar 1966. FFA Jerry Grandage 23 Jan 1968.</climb>
<climb
extra="(actually 19?)" grade="17" length="357m" name="Orion"
new="false" number=""
stars="**">A distinctive line leading to the South Peak-Foresight col.
1) 48m As for previous route.
2) 50m Up scree to a ledge below the line.
3) 48m Up to foot of chimney.
4) 35m Chimney.
5) 30m The line.
6) 48m Up to below large overhang. Bolt anchors.
7) 35m (crux) Climb the overhang and continue in the line to a stance.
8) 48m The line to another small stance.
9) 15m Up to a ledge then up passing a good cave (shelter) on R.
Roland Pauligk, Peter Canning, varied leads, 18 Feb 1970. First free ascent (three aids from pitch 7) Peter Treby, Terry Brookes, varied leads, January 1974. One long abseil down the W side to get off.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17 A3" length="365m" name="Titan" new="false"
number=""
stars="">1) 48m As for Orion etc.
2) 45m To upper R edge of scree.
3) 48m (13) Step R and up for 18 m. Go diagonally R below a smooth wall and up a short corner. Go to a steep crack which is climbed. Go L to a good ledge.
4) 24m (13) Down L then up to a corner. Climb this for 5 m to a scrubby ledge. Go 3 m L to next corner which is climbed for 5 m. Exit R to sloping scrubby ledge below large corner.
5) 26m (17 A2) Sustained climbing with three (spaced) pegs for aid up the corner to ledge on R. Bolt anchor.
6) 21m (13 A3) Aid L wall of corner (bolt) and move R back to corner. Free to roof then aid round it and up to second small stance.
7) 24m (13 A2) Climb line on R free for 8 m then aid diagonally R for 5 m to a ledge. Easily R to next corner - aided to ledge.
8) 36m (13) Scrubby corner above to bushy ledge. The corner above is followed to a sloping ledge on L.
9) 21m (13 A2) Step R, free small corner on L (fixed wedge) to bush. Go R to V corner which is climbed; free then aid. Climb crack on R to stance. Peg anchor.
10) 21m (13 A2) The corner above: 9 m aid, 9 m free, rest is aid to ledge. Move R. Peg belay
11) 12m (15) V corner above to stance on L. Fixed peg belay.
12) 24m (15 A2) Climb the corner above and move R at 6 m. Go up R corner to roof (fixed pin). Traverse R and aid the thin overhanging crack (fixed pin and bolt). The angle eases to a good ledge
13) 15m Up, easily, to Foresight summit.
Roland Pauligk, Rob Taylor, varied leads, Jan 1968</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="11/16" length="370m"
name="East Face of the Foresight (Original Route)" new="false"
number=""
stars="">In the third small 'bay' down and round R of the previous climbs an obvious easy scrubby line slants up L behind a huge flake. From the R end of the scrubby ledge atop this, some 25 m up, go up short scrubby walls and move up and across R, mainly on easy vegetation to the foot of an enormous gully leading up L to the North Peak-Foresight col. (From here Jones and Lyons apparently more of less followed the last two pitches of the normal Foresight route.) (In March 1983 Glenn Tempest, solo, did a significant variant, grade 16, up the buttress immediately L of the huge gully.)
Bob Jones, Bernie Lyons, leads unknown early 1960s.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="24" length="450m" name="The Shield" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">Start as for East Face of the Foresight route.
1-4) 150m Follow this route over easy, scrubby ledges to bottom of huge gully system.
5-8) 130m R to steeper ground, then up over scrubby ledges and steepening walls, tending R towards base of headwall. Up L to gain base of deep chimney-corner below headwall proper (pitch 9 of Pericles).
9) 20m (17) Avoid chimney-corner by climbing L arête, then R to large, bushy ledge.
10) 25m (22) Move belay 10m R to below vertical corner. Up this, then swing R to large, bushy ledge.
11) 40m (24) L crack-corner to ledge (crux) (not corner with fixed wire in it!). Up crack above to block in alcove.
12) 20m (18) Corner to ledge below prominent triple-pointed roof.
13) 35m (22) L to wide crack, up this to ledge. Overhanging crack through bulge to deep V-niche below summit roof.
14) 30m (23) Up to chockstone below steepening. Traverse boldly and with difficulty R to arête above triple-pointed roof. Up R to crack, follow this R.
Steve Monks, Jane Wilkinson 20 Feb 1994</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16 A1" length="450m" name="Pericles" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">Start at a shallow chimney (P on L wall) 65 m L of the bivy cave and a similar distance R of the previous route.
1) 42m (10) Climb the chimney crack for 30 m then continue more easily.
2) 36m (4) Leave the gully and head up R.
3) 36m (4) Go straight up to a steepening.
4) 36m (7) Go L then up to a small horizontal ledge. Traverse 6 m R.
5) 39m (11) Climb the first line to the R for 36 m. Move L and climb a short steep wall to a small stance. Peg belay.
6) 39m (13) Climb the scrubby crack to the R then on to the nose (peg runner). Go to the end of the ramp and up a crack for 5 m. Traverse 3 m L. Piton belay.
7) 42m (8) Go up to below a small chimney on L.
8) 15m (9) Move L then up into the foot of the chimney.
9) 21m (16 A1) Climb the corner, L of the chimney to the overhang. Move back to the chimney which is climbed to the chockstones. Go R on to the face. Climb the corner (sling for aid), piton runner, to a ledge. Peg anchor.
10) 33m (12) The chimney to a large ledge.
11) 30m (12) Up the line to the nose of the buttress.
12) 30m (14) The same line to a small chimney.
13) 36m (8) Traverse 9 m R to a large chimney; climb it to a small stance.
14) 15m (14) Climb the overhang where the chimney narrows to a crack.
Alan and Geoff Gledhill, varied leads, 28 Jan1969. On the second ascent in 1974, Keith Wadsworth and Rein Kamar, alternate leads, eliminated single aids from pitches 6, 9 and 12</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17 A1" length="432m" name="Prometheus"
new="false" number=""
stars="">On the E face of the Ducane Plateau 100 metres or so N of the bivy cave is a large fallen column. 20 m R of this is a crack with Prometheus etched beside it.
1) 39m (15 A1) Climb the scrubby crack to where the crack steepens. Aid the R crack then free up behind pinnacle to a large ledge.
2) 45m (11) Diagonally L to foot of line. Belay above scree gully.
3) 36m (11) The chossy buttress on L.
4) 36m (13) Go further L then up the broken area for 20 m, traversing R to detached flakes.
5) 21m (15) Traverse diagonally R to main gully. Go up to piton belay.
6) 36m (15) Go down 3 m. Traverse R across gully to feasible crack which leads to a big ledge
7) 42m (15 A1) Climb the chimney above to a ledge at 21 m. Traverse L to a steep, wet crack (.peg for aid) which leads to a ledge above an overhanging wall.
8) 39m (13) Up the chimney crack to loose blocks below the overhang.
9) 18m (15 A1) Climb the widening chimney to a rest at 6 m. Aid the corner above and step L.
10) 30m (16) Climb the corner behind to a ledge. Go over loose blocks to next corner which is climbed to foot of chimney.
11) 45m (15) Climb the narrowing chimney then up easily.
12) 45m (10) Gully.
John Moore Roland Pauligk, alternate leads, 28 Feb 1967 to 1 Mar 1967</climb><text
class="heading3"
new="false">East Face of Du Cane Plateau (Point 1507)</text><text
class="text"
new="false">In Rock No 59, (Winter 2004), there is a description of a climb made on the plateau edge to the north of the Geryon North peak.</text><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="330m" name="Global Warming"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Walk N under the E Face of Mt Geryon to N of the huge gully N of North Peak.
1) 60m (16). Chimney.
2) and 3). 100m (13). From base of gully, climb wall between large headwall on L and detached pillar on R.
4) 50m (14). Steps (poor pro) to foot of small headwall.
5) 40m (14). Traverse R below headwall. Steep crack to foot of chimney.
6) 30m (16). Chimney to ledge, then steep crack on L arête to ledge below corner.
7) 50m (15). Corner, chimney, then traverse up and L on steep face.
Aaron Kristiansen, Simon Wedsel, 25 Feb 2004.
Descent: follow track to summit of Mt Geryon North Peak and abseil down W face.</climb>
<text
class="heading2" new="false">The Acropolis</text><text
class="indentedHeader"
new="false">Intro: The columnar architecture of the Acropolis is alluring and yet far from forgiving. Routes here are steep and sustained demanding energy bursts from the climber far past the point where body and mind are flagging. Climbing on the Acropolis brings a new definition to the term "feeling totally shagged," and yet the climbing is rewarding and tantalising in spite of the effort required.</text><text
class="indentedHeader"
new="false">Access: Access From the Bottom:
Routes can be accessed from the Heim bivvy cave directly under the east face of Geryon. From Pine Valley Hut, follow the track to the Acropolis summit and descend into the Acropolis-Geryon saddle (short downclimb section). Drop off the saddle on the east side and skirt under Geryon East Face to Heim. To reach routes on Acropolis North Face, sidle back towards saddle then up vegetated scree to base of routes. Alternatively access fvia Geryon campsite scree to Acropolis-Geryon saddle.
Access from Top:
From the top of the Acropolis walk over towards Geryon (if you can see it), following a vague, but defined track until you sense you are above some decent cliffs. To identify the top pitches of established routes your best bet is to look for fixed gear over the edge, (e.g. the antique wooden wedges at the top of OWH/TGOE, or the bolted arete of TFS). Astroboy is also prominent, as is its blocky starting ledge.</text><text
class="heading3"
new="false">The Acropolis North Face</text>
<climb extra=""
grade="17" length="220m" name="Venus" new="false" number=""
stars="">Start 20 m up L of the L buttress of the main face.
1) 30m Up easily on R then behind block to good ledge on R.
2) 20m Step R and climb cracks over loose blocks to exit L to ledge.
3) 25m (crux) Step L to wide crack. Up this and the rib above. Step R to slabby corner and up it to block on L.
4) 30m Up wide crack above then move R across loose blocks and up flake to behind pinnacle. Move up to belay.
5) 30m Climb cracks on L to ledge. Step L, up bushes, then R to chimney. Climb this over first chockstone then go through hole to good ledge.
6) 25m Crack above, taking R fork at top.
7) 25m Traverse L a little, up step, then round L to foot of chimney in corner.
8) 20m Up chimney and blocks above to ledge on R.
9) 35m Up corners, cracks and ledges to top.
Chris Baxter, Dave Moss (alt), 3 Mar 1983.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="13" length="230m"
name="North Face (Original Route)" new="false" number=""
stars="">Start at the foot of the lowest buttress on the face (down R of Venus, on the next buttress - really the middle one). Broken climbing for 60 m up the crest of the buttress leads to a large green gully running diagonally down L. Cross this and continue up, moving slightly L for 75 m to a prominent chimney. (A traverse off L is possible here.) Climb the chimney and go up to a short wall. The final pitch (36 m) is the crux; go L round the corner and climb a crack to a large ledge. Traverse R above the belay and go up the steep line. Finish up chimney between face and pinnacle.
John Worrall, Reg Williams, (alt), 19 Jan 1966.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="270m" name="The Wizard of Wad"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Start up R of the previous route on the R side of the buttress, a few metres L of Fury
1) 30m Easily diagonally up L to buttress crest..
2) 25m The crack directly above. Step L over block and go up arete on L. Now easily to large block
3) 45m Up the buttress crest to the large green ramp.
4) 40m The wide crack above then the chimney to a ledge on L.
5) 40m Climb blocks on R and move across L to chimney. Go up this to ledge. L to a wide crack .which is climbed, moving L, to a good ledge.
6) 15m Climb the crack above to a grass ledge. Move L to below chimney.
7) 40m Climb the chimney and blocks above moving L to a ledge below a hand-crack.
8) 25m Climb the hand crack and the cracks above on the R to go up behind a huge pinnacle.
9) 10m The middle crack.
Chris Baxter, Dave Moss, (alt), and Miles Martin, 6 Mar 1983.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="22" length="30m" name="Astroboy" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">This remarkable and sustained crack is approached by abseil from the top of the cliff. Take many #1 Camalots / #2.5 Friends. The first L-lacing corner L of the top of Fury; starting from a block ledge.
Glenn Tempest, Russell Clune, 7 Mar 1983.
</climb>
<climb
extra="9B" grade="25" length="30m" name="The Far Side"
new="false" number=""
stars="***">The sharp arête R of Astro Boy. Abseil to the Astro Boy start ledge (a 50m rope doubled just makes it). Stupidly exposed barn-door laybacking on perfect rock. Nick Hancock, Roger Parkyn, Mar 2004.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="220m" name="Wailing for Jonah"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Start at the cairn 5m L of Fury.
1-2) 90m Climb straight up the corner system and a grassy ledge.
3) 40m Climb the second corner system L of Fury to a bushy ledge, then ascend the off-width corner (with jammed block).
4) 35m Climb the obvious crack on the R to a prominent ledge.
5) 15m Finish up the corner on the L.
J.Keane, D.Baker, Feb 1991.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18 A1" length="210m" name="Fury" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Start about 20 m up R of the toe of the middle buttress (the lowest) below a line leading to a small pale yellow and black roof at about 8 m
1) 40m Up and chimney past roof on L. Up to third ledge.
2) 45m Corner. At 7 m traverse L above the roof to a crack which is climbed (easing) to the large grass ramp. Go up R to below corner.
3) 40m Climb the main corner to a small horizontal break.
4) 45m (crux) The line to a ledge. Up, one aid 2 m below roof, to semi hanging belay.
5) 20m Corner.
Peter Treby, Terry Brookers, varied leads, 31 Jan 1974.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="250m" name="One Not-so-perfect Day"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Start as for Fury.
1) 30m (16) Chimney L of roof to easy ground and big ledge.
2) 20m (15) Step R to easy ground, then climb corner to stance.
3) 25m (10) Traverse L, then up tending L to top of block.
40 30m (10) Through slot and overhanging block to easy ground. Tend L up vegetated and broken ground, then directly up to large, sloping, grassy ledge. Belay off the "tombstone".
5) 30m (16) Traverse L easily, then up to corner with tricky finish.
6) 30m (14) Traverse L on to face, then up R- veering cracks. R round the bush, then up to a ledge.
7) 30m (15) Short traverse L then twin cracks for 10m to awkward exit R. Mantel through blocks, then out L over easy, vegetated ground to prominent clean corner.
8) 18m (13) Follow Original Route up easy clean corner to large ledge.
9) 35m (13) Easy ground to below notch, then L crack.
Dayle Gilliatt, Phil Dolan, 29 January 1989.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="25" length="210m" name="Black Man's Country"
new="false" number=""
stars="***">Start up the L side of the 80m wall (Mellow Buttress), just R of the R-lacing corner marking its L edge.
1) 45m (18) Climb thin cracks and the face just R of the corner until these join the corner. Belay on large block in corner below overhang
2) 30m (20) Traverse 5 m R and climb groove R of roof. Pass small roof and continue up corner to ledge
3) 45m (22) Step R on top of blocks and climb crack to face. Climb it and step R to top of large flake. A short face leads up and L to a crack. Climb this past a small overhang to a ledge. Continue up hand-crack, stepping R and up to a large ledge
4) 40m (17) Obvious crack and chimney to bushy ledge
5) 30m (19) Climb L- facing corner for 9 m then step R to ledge. Climb face above to another ledge
6) 20m (25) Up and R to obvious L-facing corner. This pitch used to have a fixed peg runner near top, which has since gone walkabout.
Glenn Tempest, Russ Clune (alt), 6 Mar 1983 (Originally done with one aid at the top; both led that pitch free next day).</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" length="240m" name="Old Wave Heroes"
new="false" number=""
stars="***">1) 50m (18) As for Miles From Nowhere
2) 40m (21) Step L and climb the crack. Avoid the block at the top by climbing the L wall to a ledge.
3) 40m (20) The crack above curves R to a broken chimney. Up this to a superb ledge on the L.
4) 40m (19) Climb the chimney until an obvious hand-traverse leads out R to a crack. Up this to a large ledge.
5) 50m (19) Instead of the off-width in the corner, climb the hand-crack just R of it. Move L to the corner which is climbed to below the wide chimney of The Gates of Eden. Up this and the easy corner above to a ledge on the L. (TGOE goes up the body chimney above.) Go L to the arête and climb the thin crack and wall to a ledge.
6) 20m (18) As for TGOE. Glenn Tempest, Chris Baxter Mar 1983.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" length="200m" name="Miles From Nowhere"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Start a few metres down R of Black Man's Country at a small black V groove (marked with an arrow) in the middle of Mellow Buttress. (L of low obvious grey roofs).
1) 50m (18) A fantastic pitch! Up the grooves and cracks to the top of a block. Climb the thin face crack above and step up R to belay.
2) 50m (18) Go up R to the wide corner crack. Above, a shallow corner leads to a series of stacked blocks. Belay on top.
3) 35m (17) Take the hand crack just R of the main line to a good ledge. Go R behind block.
4) 25m (19) Up the wide line behind to a small stance.
5) 40m (21) The main line is avoided by a small traverse R to another off-width. Up this and the hand crack above. Glenn Tempest, Russell Clune, (alt), 3 Mar 1983.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18 A1" length="205m" name="The Gates of Eden"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Start immediately R of Mellow Buttress, up R of MFN
1) 30m (6) Climb the slabby wall to the foot of the main face. Take the corner above to a large block.
2) 24m (8) Up the smaller corner, higher to the L. Back R to below a dank chimney.
3) 15m (8) Climb the chimney and go R to large ledge.
4) 15m (13) Up the short steep crack to R, then the wide crack above to top of block.
5) 36m (11) Go diagonally L across a slanting, scrubby ledge. Continue up to a large ledge below a small corner.
6) 27m (9) Climb the small crack above. Belay on the big ledge below a large jammed block.
7) 30m (17 A1) Up for 6 m, traverse L (leader used tension, second didn't) and step down to foot of a bulging crack. Climb this and the chimney above to a good ledge.
8) 21m (15) Climb the chimney for 9 m to a ledge. Continue up the unpleasant body crack. Move up L to belay.
9) 20m (18) The magnificent corner containing two antique wedges.
Chris Dewhirst, John Moore, varied leads 17 Feb 1967. Glenn Tempest and Russell Clune eliminated the two aids from the final pitch on 7 Mar 1983.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="200m"
name="In the Days When the World Was Wide" new="false" number=""
stars="">A six-pitch route starting up the wall 7 m R of TGOE and following a direct line. The last pitch is the crux.
Chris Rathbone, Phil Robinson, (alt), 24 Feb 1983.
</climb>
<text
class="heading3"
new="false">The Acropolis West Face
</text><text class="text"
new="false">Follow walking track towards summit of the Acropolis as far as the foot of the bluffs on the S face. Head L, following foot of cliff for about 300m to detached, sky-scraper-sized tower (two hours from Pine Valley Hut). </text>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="155m" name="The Plenipotentiary"
new="false" number=""
stars="">"A classic, "up there" with the best, anywhere" ( Aaron Kristiansen, Feb. 2004). 
Scramble up a gully below the pinnacle. Gear: include from knife-blade pitons to 80mm, 60m ropes.
1) 36m (8) From notch above large gully on south faceof tower, up buttress to large sloping ledge.
2) 30m (13) Up slab to foot of corner.
3) 21m (15) Traverse L, past a thin crack. Continue diagonal traverse and layback up narrow slabs. Swing round into a vertical V-crack which is climbed to a large ledge. 
4) 12m (8) Traverse diagonally L. Climb a sharp corner to a small ledge.
5) 38m (16) Traverse R to the V-crack and climb it. (May be harder than 16, according to Aaron!)
6) 18m (15) Chimney to the pinnacle top.
John Moore, Reg Williams, Chris Dewhirst, varied leads, 19 Feb 1967. (Description amended by A. Kristiansen, Feb. 2004. For more details see Rock No 59).
Descent: Abseil to col behind pinnacle. Three more abseils from col down the S face of tower to start of route. Alternatively, find a way from the col, (roped scrambling), to the top of the cliffs.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="165m" name="Juggles" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Starts up the corner just R of The Plenipotentiary. Start 10m R of corner.
1) 30m (10) Series of steps, keeping R of vegetation.
2) 12m (11) Climb 6 m up crack in corner on L. Traverse over block to main corner.
3) 24m (15) The corner.
4) 30m (13) Up underneath overhang and go R round it. Climb crack then gully to 8 m below The Plenipotentiary notch.
5) 6m (13) L corner to notch (Route now follows ridge behind The Plenipotentiary).
6) 12m (11) Traverse R and up short corners to ledge. Go 6 m R to base of off-width.
7) 15m (15) Climb off-width for 9m to ledge below overhang. Traverse L to nose, level with top of pinnacle.
8) 30m (12)Chimney and crack.
9) 7m (11) Go R to short crack with loose blocks. Climb this to big ledge which leads L to exit gully.
Col Hocking, Phil Robinson, varied leads, 31 Jan1977.</climb><text
class="heading2" new="false">The Guardians</text><text
class="indentedHeader"
new="false">Intro : Despite the fact that these crags are clearly visible from the Lake St Clare, climbers have long passed the Guardians by in favour of the delights of nearby Geryon. The cliffs form an impressive escarpment, about 1.5km long, of off-vertical buttresses and walls ranging along the south end of the Guardian Massif (1394m). 
The rock is dolerite but unusual in that, although there are some chimneys and crack lines, columnar jointing is not obvious and the structure is in part determined by a set of strong joint planes dipping south and presenting a series of steeply sloping ledges and slabs. Appearances from below though are deceptive and the rock is generally steep, offering delightful climbing of a high standard.
</text><text
class="indentedHeader"
new="false">Access:The quickest access is to take the boat (contact: (03) 6289 1137 or http://www.lakestclairwildernessholidays.com.au/lake-cruise-and-ferry) from Cynthia Bay up Lake St Clare to Narcissus Hut. Follow the Overland Track west for 200m until the signposted turn-off is reached for Lake Marion and Gould Plateau. The track leads off north across the flat boggy plain for about 2km to Nicholls Junction. Take the LH track beside Marion Creek to southern end of Lake Marion where the track ends (GR 203512), about another 5km or 1½ hours,.
From a campsite by the lake, walk and paddle round the western side of the Lake, then head more or less directly up towards a large scree falling to the R of the prominent summit buttress. The going is complicated by a belt of “jungle” between the lake and the cliff and progress is slow – allow up to 1½ hours to the base of the rock.
A National Parks Pass is required by all climbers visiting to the area. Please stick to the principals of minimum impact bushwalking and climbing (no bolting for example). This also a “stove-only area”. 
For further information see Tasmap 1:25 000, Du Cane 4235 and Olympus 4234, or Cradle Mountain – Lake St Clare 1: 100 00.
</text><text
class="indentedHeader"
new="false">History : To say these crags have been neglected is an understatement. In fact there appears to be only three recorded visits by climbers. In 1972 a large party from the CCT including Ian Lewis, John Moore, Reg Williams and Bob Bull made a reccy, working out the access and prospecting for new lines resulting in two routes of significance – the only routes so far traced! A couple of years later, Peter Treby and Terry Brooks visited and climbed a grade “12” and later that year, Reg Williams was back with Roland Pauligk climbing The Dragon a 270m grade 20, a major effort on this remote crag. The trip was made even more exciting when Anne Pauligk and her climbing partner were nearly benighted resulting in an epic rescue by the others in driving rain and darkness.
The Victorians were back in 1976 when the Baxter Boys, including Kevin Lindorff, Roark Muhlen and Noddy Lockwood and of course Chris himself, added Excelsior (16), Warrior (17), Guardian Angel and the Monster (20). 
Since then…. apparently nothing. Details of these climbs and any other information would be welcome!
</text><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="273m" name="Theseus" new="false"
number=""
stars="">A steep and rewarding climb with an emphasis on friction. It follows the central line on the large summit buttress of the Guardians. The rock structure has a stepped appearance when viewed from below but this, however, is an illusion quickly dispelled when it is found the ledges slope downwards at a steep angle. Pitons were used for runners and belays.
Start: At the highest point of a vegetated shelf separating the buttress proper from a lower subsidiary shelf.
1) 50m Move up, trending R. Belay on a small ledge on an arête. There is a small wall above on the L.
2) 12m Climb diagonally L and over the wall. (An attempt was made to continue up at this point….). Suggested that pitches 2 and 3 are combined.
3) 26m Traverse L, delicate at first, then climb diagonally L up a steep ramp to an awkward belay stance.
4) 20m Climb a steep, awkward wall. Continue up on easier ground to a small stance below a diedre slanting L.
5) 23m Traverse R, over sloping holds (delicate) until one is underneath a line through the overhangs above. Climb the line to a sentry box.
6) 40m Continue up the line. The route now enters a steep wide gully which is followed to the top of the climb.
7) 46m Move up, keeping R, until at 13m a thin overhanging crack is reached. Traverse L over a smooth slab, then climb up and bridge up to the foot of a thrutchy chimney. Avoid this by stepping R onto a central rib. Climb up the rib and continue to a good stance near the R wall.
8) 26m Move up L of the short wall above the belay then traverse R and climb a narrow chimney. Belay at its top.
9) 30m Climb up and move on to a substantial ledge on the L side of the gully. Step R to a narrow exit chimney. Climb this and belay at its top. Walk off on a ramp leading diagonally L, roping up for a short wall leading to the summit plateau. Ian Lewis and Reg Williams, (alt. leads), 5 March 1972.
</climb><climb
extra="" grade="14" length="253m" name="Sunfighter" new="false"
number=""
stars="">A prominent line on the major buttress to the L of the “smooth walls” at the extreme eastern end of the Guardian’s cliff line.
When viewed from the lake the buttress reveals two deep lines diverging from a common start. The route follows the RH one.
Start: At the common foot of the twin lines.
1) 26m Climb straight up the gully to a crack in the L wall.
2) 26m Move up the chimney above the belay for 6m then traverse L under a small roof to a ledge at the top of a crack. Climb the crack behind to a small ledge.
3) 20m (crux) Climb up behind the belay to the foot of a steep V corner. Place a runner, climb down and traverse R to a foothold on the arête. Move up the arête until it is possible to step across R onto loose blocks. Continue across until it is possible to climb steeply down into the gully.
4) 16m Go straight up the gully to the overhanging blocks.
5) 33m Wend a way through the blocks till the angle eases, then continue up the gully until a traverse out R brings one to a grassy ledge.
6) 36m Continue straight up the chimney behind to a good ledge in the gully above.
7) 30m Continue up the gully to a large chockstone. Layback easily round to the R to a good ledge. Jam up the crack behind to a spacious ledge.
8) 33m Pull over the block above the belay and scramble up the gully above.
9) 33m Mixed scrambling and delicate slab climbing leads out L to the top. John Moore and Bob Bull (alt. leads), 5 March 1972.

</climb>
<text
class="heading2" new="false">Mt Ida</text><text
class="indentedHeader"
new="false">Intro: Mt Ida, on the east side of Lake St Clair, is one of the easiest mountains to recognise due to its conical shape with a sharp dolerite point. The mountain was the scene of a number of epic attempts, summer and winter, via the good ship Venus in the 60s and 70s, but is rarely climbed today.</text><text
class="indentedHeader"
new="false">Access: Access to Mt Ida, on the eastern shore of Lake St Clair, was originally by boat but future climbers may have to foot slog in due to a proposed change in Park's access policy. If you can, persuade the Lake St Clair ferry service to drop you off in the morning and arrange for a pickup later in the afternoon. The alternative may be to walk from Derwent Bridge via the Travellers Rest Lake and Lake Sappho, a weekends return walk on its own.</text><climb
extra="" grade="13" length="165m" name="Mount Ida SE Ridge"
new="false" number=""
stars="">This line is the RH (as viewed from Lake St Clair) skyline of the SE rock of Mt Ida. It leads directly to the summit. The LH boundary of the face is a more broken ridge with a prominent pillar on it.
A large step forms the base of the ridge. A protruding thumb of rock about three-quarters of the way up the ridge is a feature prominently visible from the Lake.
Start: at the foot of the step. Cairned.
1) 35m 13. Straight up obvious line (i.e. cracks and grooves) to broad ledge with old dead tree [might may or may not still be there!]. Strenuous mantleshelf after start of this pitch.
2) 35m 3. Over short wall behind ledge and scramble up easy line to foot of good rock.
3) 35m 7. Keep L of good rock to gain broad platform beneath protruding rock thumb (PRT).
4) 40m 12. Up the exit crack/chimney which is gained by a short traverse R from base of PRT.
5) 20m 12. Complete exit chimney and emerge on summit of Mt Ida.
Philip Blake, Mike Douglas, Chris Viney, 21 Jan 1975.
</climb>
<text
class="heading2" new="false">Eldon Bluff</text><text
class="text" new="false">Eldon Bluff has long attracted the eye of climbers. Clearly visible from many peaks in the west, it was reputed for years to have the highest dolerite cliffs in Tasmania. The trouble is it is in the middle of bloody nowhere, miles from the nearest road head and with no access tracks through the thick, nearly impenetrable scrub. The CCT tried to reach the mountain in 1967 but it wasn't till 1970 that a group led by Tim Walkden-Brown managed to get to the main crag above Lake Ewart. They climbed "The Splinter" (10) before retreating back via the Collingwood River. The only other recorded climbing trip seems to have been an epic by Lucas Trihey and Bob McMahon in February 2000 when they managed to climb "Terra Incognita" (250m, 17) in seven pitches (one bivi), on the NE face . They took a boat across Lake Burbury near Queenstown on the Lyell Highway, travelled up the King River to the junction of the South Eldon and Eldon Rivers and then bush-bashed for four days in typical west coast weather via Eldon Peak (1439m) to the crag. They did find excellent rock but also proved it wasn't as high as they had hoped! For further details and a map (but not a description of the climb unfortunately), check out Rock 35 or Australian Geographic 57.</text>
</guide>
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