<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide pagesize="500">
<header access="" acknowledgement="" history=""
intro="This section of the guide covers the myriad of small crags found on the flanks of Mt Parsons and the peak to the right, as well as some random cliff on Mt Mayson and Schouten Island. There is some great climbing to be found amongst these crags, but some can be tricky to find."
name="Hazards Craglets" new="false"
rock="Pink and orange granite, 10-50m" sun="Afternoon sun"
walk="10-40 mins"></header><gps new="true"><point code="CBH200"
description="Start of access to Inchman Crag (from Hazards Traverse track)"
easting="609030" height="94" northing="5333931"
zone="55G"></point><point code="CBH210"
description="Fat Slipper" easting="608748" height="111"
northing="5333815" zone="55G"></point><point code="CBH220"
description="Inchman (base of Access scramble to Inchman climb)"
easting="608642" height="110" northing="5333719"
zone="55G"></point></gps>
<text class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">Wombat Crag</text><text
class="Discussion">This crag is the confused mass of slabs, walls and scrub to the north of and below the summit of Mt. Parsons and is easily reached via the Skyline Traverse in about 40 minutes. Most existing routes are less than 80m high and the cliff faces east and north. There are three separate tiers of climbs.</text><text
class="heading3">Upper Tier</text><text
class="Discussion">The upper tier of Wombat Crag is a 50m high slabby wall up and to the left of Wombat Crag and provides a scenic nursery for gaining skills necessary for the Hazards more serious slabs. The left-hand end of the crag is easily identified by a prominent green spot (moss shrubs) halfway up a dark slab. Descent is by a large slabby ramp at the extreme right (north) of the cliff.</text><text
class="Discussion">Access: Traverse right from the top of the first hill on the Skyline Traverse track, to the base of the cliff, about 40 minutes from Sleepy Bay.</text><climb
grade="27" length="15m" name="A Bolt From The Blue" number=""
stars="*"> At the top of the east side of Wombat Crag Upper Tier, is a huge boulder with a green north-east arete (visible from sleepy bay car park). Begin at the boulder below the two carrot bolts. A 6 Rock is also necessary. Nick Hancock Neil Mullinger, Nov 2002.</climb><climb
grade="15" length="35m" name="The Green Spot Route" number=""
stars=""> On the left-hand end of the wall at the top of a large pillar leaning against the main face to the left of the green spot. From the top of the pillar climb directly up the slab, two bolts provide protection. A direct start up the pillar would improve the route. L.Bottomley, A.Hasan G.Cooper June 1992</climb><climb
grade="12" length="50m" name="The Dragon Looked At Me" number=""
stars=""> 50m right of The Green Spot Route, past a prominent chimney, the crag is divided by an obvious gully. Climb from the blocks to a short crack on the blunt arete formed by the gully's left-hand side. Move left onto the runout but easy slab. L.Bottomley Richard Eccleston June 1992</climb><climb
grade="15" length="60m" name="Inside The Dragon" number=""
stars="*">Very entertaining and a bit bizarre. To the gully's right a huge detached flake is in front of the main cliff. This is The Dragon . 1. 10m Climb from the blocks up to the huge right tending ledge. 2. 15m Continue right inside the dragon until chockstones block passage. 3. 35m Crux. Chimney and bridge between the dragon and the mainface. Move precariously onto the main face and follow slab to the top. G.Cooper, A.Hasan, L.Bottomley, J.Rackham, Jun 92.</climb><climb
extra="Þ" grade="22" length="35m" name="Smear Test" new="false"
number="" stars=""
value="This route is worthless. It is on the right side of the slab below and right of Inside the Dragon. Thinish moves past a U-bolt lead to easier climbing (16) past two more. Either go L up a wide crack, move R to join Entente Cordiale or down-climb and wonder why you bothered getting out of bed. Chris Snell, Sophie LeRoux Nick Hancock Feb 02."> This route is worthless. It is on the right side of the slab below and right of Inside the Dragon. Thinish moves past a U-bolt lead to easier climbing (16) past two more. Either go L up a wide crack, move R to join Entente Cordiale or down-climb and wonder why you bothered getting out of bed. Chris Snell, Sophie LeRoux Nick Hancock Feb 02.</climb><climb
extra="Þ" grade="23" length="35m" name="Entente Cordiale"
new="false" number="" stars="*"
value="1. 23 Climb the arete L of Where Wild Wombats Waltz past 4 U-bolts to a ledge below the headwall. 2. 21 From the ledge follow the runnel above via 3 U-bolts to a single bolt belay. Nick Hancock, Sophie LeRoux (alt.) with Chris Snell Feb 02">1. 23 Climb the arete L of Where Wild Wombats Waltz past 4 U-bolts to a ledge below the headwall. 2. 21 From the ledge follow the runnel above via 3 U-bolts to a single bolt belay. Nick Hancock, Sophie LeRoux (alt.) with Chris Snell Feb 02</climb><climb
grade="17" length="55m" name="Where Wild Wombats Waltz"
number=""
stars="*"> 50m right of the gully The Dragon ends by forming an obvious corner against a compact slab immediatelt right of Entente Cordial. Take the slab direct, 5m right of the corner. Up slab passing a bolt to weakness in headwall and another bolt at 18m. Continue past bolt through the steepening scoop and up the easy slab to top. Richard Eccleston, A.Hasan, L.Bottomley Garn Cooper June 1992</climb><text
class="heading3">Middle Tier</text><text
class="Discussion">On the northern side of a gully north of Wombat crag is an elongated face averaging 30m in height. Rainy Day is the straight line about 200m from the upstream end just northwest of a wide ledge near the top. This cliff is the one below the upp tier and is best approached from below, not from the upper tier</text><climb
extra="" grade="7" length="27m" name="Rainy Day" new="false"
number="" stars=""
value="On a small boulder in scrub at base of cliff. Up fairly easy angled slabs, keeping to the right of crack which affords some protection. Cross crack 6m from the top, incredible jugs lead up left wall to finish. Phil Robinson, K.Kiernan Oct 74"> On a small boulder in scrub at base of cliff. Up fairly easy angled slabs, keeping to the right of crack which affords some protection. Cross crack 6m from the top, incredible jugs lead up left wall to finish. Phil Robinson, K.Kiernan Oct 74</climb><climb
extra="" grade="9" length="45m" name="Phiningup" new="false"
number="" stars=""
value="This route is the obvious crack on slab just west of two parallel and scrubby inclined gullies in second tier of cliffs on northern side of Wombat crag. Obvious corner with chockstones in initial 6m. Up corner, then angle eases. Follow steepening diagonal crack then finish on gentle angled slab. Phil Robinson, K.Kiernan Oct 74"> This route is the obvious crack on slab just west of two parallel and scrubby inclined gullies in second tier of cliffs on northern side of Wombat crag. Obvious corner with chockstones in initial 6m. Up corner, then angle eases. Follow steepening diagonal crack then finish on gentle angled slab. Phil Robinson, K.Kiernan Oct 74</climb><climb
grade="16" length="85m" name="Pavlova" number=""
stars="">It starts left of the centre of the crag at a large slab region. Go left past the light water streaks to a small detatched buttress. There is an offwidth crack on the front and an evil chimney thing either side. The route takes a fourth option, a crack system on the RH side. 1. 12m Up to the top and belay over the back to the left of a large right and go up delicately to a runner at ~12m. Continue up to crack coming in from the right. 2. 25m Step off the pinnacle top onto the main face (no runners) traverse 3. 20m Up the face heading for the isolated bush. Just below are two depressions. The second one has another thin section. 4. Up past the bush and on to top. Peter Jackson Marcel Jackson with Hamish Jackson Dec 89</climb><climb
grade="15" length="30m" name="Downpipe-Crusher Wombat" number=""
stars="**"> Definitely worth the walk even if the others aren't. About 100m left of Composite Corner and 5m right of the huge main corner which can be clearly seen from the north on the way up from Sleepy Bay. Layaway up until you can move left onto the face. Up juggy slab to small diagonal ledge. Off left end of ledge up steep runout slab to small headwall. Left under headwall to weakness and up this to top. Garn Cooper Dave Gardner June 1985</climb><climb
grade="13" length="33m" name="Ursinus" number=""
stars=""> The route keeps some 5m left of the major corner formed where the smooth slabby left hand side of the cliff meets the broken blocky right hand section. Start at a crack 5m left of the corner. Climb the crack awkwardly until an easy angled slab is reached at 12m. Move up the slab toward a corner some 10m high with a large bush at its foot. This is 6m left of a major corner. Move up past the bush to the foot of a good layback crack. Layback up for 3m, then step out onto a small stance on the right. Climb on up the corner to a belay stance at the top. B.Lawson D.Drake Nov 71</climb><climb
extra="" grade="" length="" name="Ursinus (Var Start)"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="The major corner 5m right of the direct crack . Chimney and thrutch up the curved, bottle necked chimney (bloody awkward) for about 4m then traverse left along a narrow ledge to join the direct route. R.Williams, G.Kowalik Nov 71."> The major corner 5m right of the direct crack . Chimney and thrutch up the curved, bottle necked chimney (bloody awkward) for about 4m then traverse left along a narrow ledge to join the direct route. R.Williams, G.Kowalik Nov 71.</climb><climb
grade="16" length="30m" name="Bengt Race" number=""
stars="">Approximately 60m right of downpipe-crusher wombat, 10m right of ursinus, below a small detached buttress. 1. 13m Hand traverse along front of small buttress, and up onto it. Move right from the top, and up onto slab. 2. 17m Head up to the backwall and do the rightwards ascending traverse. L.Bottomley, A.Ross May 91</climb><climb
grade="17" length="36m" name="Composite Corner" number=""
stars="">Right on the west end of the crag near the more southerly corner. At the foot of the upper cliffs is a large flake 40m long and 15m wide. Access is through a cave heading north then traverse back to attractive line immediately to the right of the obvious face. Start at the belt of scrub at the top of the slab. 1. 26m Jam for 7m then cross wide vegetated ledge and up obvious line through overhang. Continue up twin cracks in right angled corner forming opposite right angle to ledge. K.Kiernan P.Robinson Pitch 1 Oct 74 2. 10m Continue up crack (which thins out and eventually shuts down) by bridging. At the top of the crack and below the small roof move left onto exposed face. Move up wall to top. C.Dawson M.McWhirter Pitch 2 Oct 74</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Lower Tier (Inchman Crag)</text><text
class="Discussion" new="false"
number="null.">The lower tier of Wombat Crag is actually not very near either of the other tiers The best way to find it is to look for the impressive looking zig-zagging flake that is the climb Inchman. This can be seen from the descent into Sleepy Bay, and from within the bay itself. It's to the right, on the south side of the valley gully formed by the creek running into the bay.
The cliff can be reached by walking on the skyline traverse past the Underworld. 50 m past where you leave the gravel and start up slabby rock head horizontally right below the lowest significant rock-band crossing a white streak of rock up the cliff (easily visible from Sleepy Bay) for 500 m to where the cliffs steepen. </text><text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">Editor's note - I'm not certain about the ordering of these climbs.</text><climb
extra="8B" grade="21" length="18m" name="Fat Slipper"
new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="This climb is on the south west side to the right of a crack/water streak. Climb the slab on what you can find past 8 bolts to a rap point. N.Selby, A. Mason 7/8/2004">This climb is on the south west side to the right of a crack/water streak. Climb the slab on what you can find past 8 bolts to a rap point. N.Selby, A. Mason 7/8/2004
</climb><climb
grade="20" length="60m" name="Inchman" number=""
stars="">The line of the great flake on the hidden cliff below or in front of Wombat Crag. An impressive feature. Starts on the terrace (reached from the right) below the left facing curving offwidth. 1. The crack to the top of the flake. 2. Walk along the top of the flake. 3. Up the flake to the overhang, undercling left and up the corner easily to the top. Delightful. Peter, Marcel Hamish Jackson Dec 89</climb>
<climb
grade="23" length="21m" name="The Second Mile" number=""
stars=""> A direct start to Inchman. Below the terrace is a black slab with two bolts. Begin about 4m left of the bolts. Up for 3m and then move right rising to a faint line. On via bolts to top. Marcel, Peter Hamish Jackson Dec 89</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="22" length=" 70m" name="Spanner " new="false"
number=""
stars="**">The only obvious weakness through the large sweeping wall right of Inchman. Up the beautiful obtuse corner (with 2 seams facing each other), then exit out right (crux) to traverse gingerly across (not up!) the slab to join cracks. Up cracks and face to tree belay. Pitch 2 (12, 15m) as for Inchman. The first attempt of the line (in January 1990) resulted in a serious ground-fall from above the first crack system. Despite its history, this climb actually has quite adequate protection. Marcel and Hamish Jackson, Feb '99
</climb><climb
extra="16B" grade="22" length="50m"
name="Knocked Up on Cheap Champagne" new="false" number=""
stars="***"
value="8m right of Spanner, start at a little roof then follow the bolts left and up (16 bolts to rap point). This climb can be done as two pitches but is best done in one. You can rap the climb with one rope - it is a 20m rap then a 25m rap. N.Selby, R.DeCeasare 28/8/04">8m right of Spanner, start at a little roof then follow the bolts left and up (16 bolts to rap point). This climb can be done as two pitches but is best done in one. You can rap the climb with one rope - it is a 20m rap then a 25m rap. N.Selby, R.DeCeasare 28/8/04
</climb><climb
extra="4B" grade="24" length="15m" name="Top of My To Do List"
new="false" number=""
stars="***">20m right of Knocked Up climb a lovely pink seam to a DBB. Doug McConnell 2004.
</climb><text
class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">Gracelands Area</text><text class="heading3"
new="false" number="null.">Hancocks Knob</text><climb grade="18"
length="15m" name="As Good As It Gets" number=""
stars="**"> On open slabs at the southwestern end of Wombat Crag is a pinnacle with a sharp arete, easily visible from Gracelands. Climb this arete via wires and a carrot near the top. Nick Hancock, Jul 01</climb><climb
extra="5B" grade="26" length="15m" name="Sicker Than AIDS"
new="false" number=""
stars="">The overhanging arête right of As Good as It Gets, starting on the right. Nick Hancock & Heather Trygstad, Jan 2005.
</climb><climb
grade="17" length="15m" name="Gutter Snipe" number=""
stars=""> The runnel on the east side. Nick Hancock, Jul 01</climb><text
class="heading3">The Kindergarten</text><text
class="Discussion">You can see the crag across the gully from Wave Wall, and that's as close as you should go to it If you park in a small alcove (a blocked off vehicular track) on a rise, you're only about 150m away. From the road you should see a prow, head for this. Just before the prow there is a huge boulder with a slab that runs into a corner, this is Rough Play Princess. Head left at the boulder and up, to arrive on a large platform beneath the prow.</text><climb
grade="18" length="15m" name="The Dungeon Masters" number=""
stars=""> Follow the crag line left for about 100m until it abruptly turns uphill. This is the route up the arete. Move up a groove to attain the start of an overhanging layback. Excellent moves through the layback to pull out onto a slab. Grant Rowbottom, Evan Peacock, S.Ford C.Reed Sep 92</climb><climb
grade="15" length="15m" name="Childhood Memories" number=""
stars=""> About 15m left of The Cloakroom is a small ledge running up to a dubious flake, follow this. Evan Peacock, T.Albion C.Reed Nov 91</climb><climb
extra="" grade="" length="15m" name="The Cloakroom" new="false"
number=""
stars=""> The left side of the prow. Start up the slab on the left side with the obvious undercling. Delicate moves up to the cave. Top roped</climb><climb
extra="" grade="" length="15m" name="Building Blocks"
new="false" number=""
stars=""> Start just right and around the corner of the slab below the prow. Follow the incipient crack in the slab to the headwall, up this trending slightly right through the overlap. Difficult crystal moves to finish. Top roped</climb><text
class="heading3">Talking Rock</text><text
class="Discussion">About 500m past Wave Wall on the other side of the gully stands a large (30m high) block which is visible from the road. Although it has only five climbs on it there are several more good looking lines there. Good for bouldering or toproping if the wind gets up and you definitely need to climb. Otherwise go for a walk and find some bouldering.</text><climb
grade="16" length="15m" name="The Vacillators" number=""
stars=""> The nice face just left of the corner just left of Little Green Monkeys. K.Waldheim, Jun 90.</climb><climb
grade="19" length="12m" name="Little Green Monkeys" number=""
stars=""> The nice face about 15m left of the offwidth left of Quantum Fluctuations. Start at the obvious flake and go straight up. TR E.Peacock, G.Cooper, S.Ford, C.Reed Jun 90.</climb><climb
grade="21" length="8m" name="Homo Stone" number=""
stars=""> The undercut corner about 3m left of the offwidth left of Quantum Fluctuations. Top roped E.Peacock, C.Reed, Jun 90.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="15m" name="Quantum Fluctuations"
new="false" number=""
stars=""> 2m left of HARD LOGIC is a short arete with an extreme bouldery start which wasn't climbed. Garn Cooper Mar 86</climb><climb
grade="18" length="20m" name="Hard Logic" number=""
stars=""> 2m left of Fret Arete. Evan Peacock (solo) June 1990</climb><climb
grade="16" length="20m" name="Fret Arete" number=""
stars=""> Climb the arete closest to Mt. Amos. Garn Cooper, Al Adams Pete Steane Feb 85</climb><text
class="heading3">Wave Wall</text><text
class="Discussion">Found by Bluey Dawson and Ian Lewis. Wave wall is not worth the walk, if it's climbing your keen on, although this area is pretty good and worth exploring if you're into walking. It is an isolated crag about 60m high. To get there drive about 500m along the Sleepy Bay road from the turnoff, then walk towards the Hazards for about 100m. The crag is almost hidden by trees although the top is visible from the road. The left hand end is shaped like a wave.</text><climb
grade="20" length="50m" name="Trout Mask Replica" number=""
stars="">Start 5m left of Sun Zoom Spark. 1. 25m Hand jam up and cross into offwidth . Up this to a tree and continue up awkward V-chimney to a terrace. 2. 25m Layback up right side of the flake, cross onto the left side and up to the top of it. Continue up the slab above without protection. I.Lewis C.Dawson June 1974</climb><climb
grade="16" length="80m" name="Sun Zoom Spark" number=""
stars="">To the right of the wave are two cracks and then another with a large block at its base. This is it. 1. 34m Up crack to tree and keep going on incredible rock to ledge. 2. 46m Go right along ledge and layback under flake and up slab to top. C.Dawson I.Lewis June 1974</climb><climb
grade="20" length="20m" name="Sliced Meat" number=""
stars=""> In the face approximately 4m right of start for Sum Zoom Spark is an obvious concavity, with a short shallow crack at its base. Up the shallow crack then right, up to where face steepens. Continue straight up low angle face to belay in Sun Zoom Spark. C.Maddock Feb 85</climb><climb
grade="21" length="20m" name="Diced Mice" number=""
stars=""> Start immediately right of Sliced Meat. TR Evan Peacock T.Olding Mar 88</climb><text
class="heading3">Gracelands</text><text
class="Discussion">Shambling over an elevated terrace across the valley from Talking Rock is a north facing set of cubic blocks. The terrace slopes down, the face leans out. There are some obvious bottomless cracks of character. The cliff is beautifully situated with views of Coles Bay and Sleepy Bay, punctuated by the hills of Wave Wall and Talking Rock.</text><text
class="Discussion" new="false"
number="null.">Access takes about 20 minutes. Just past Wave Wall on the Cape Tourville Rd is a sharp left hand bend (no more than half a km from Coles Bay Rd turn-off). Park here. The route goes up the small valley to a saddle from which you can see Gracelands. Descend, then go up to the cliff.</text><climb
grade="15" length="10m" name="Africa" number=""
stars=""> The crappy corner crack 30m left of Meaty Bites. Marcal Jackson Jul 90</climb><climb
grade="20" length="10m" name="Meaty Bites" number=""
stars=""> Never mind the dog, feed your fists to this angry start. The difficulties ease to a nice overhanging corner. Peter Jackson Marcel Jackson Aug 90</climb><climb
extra="4B" grade="22" length="15m" name="Leap Of Faith"
new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="Through the roof left of Bodyguard. Stick clip the first bolt and continue past three more to the chain. Gary Phillips Sam Edwards Sep 95"> Through the roof left of Bodyguard. Stick clip the first bolt and continue past three more to the chain. Gary Phillips Sam Edwards Sep 95</climb><climb
grade="18" length="10m" name="Bodyguard" number=""
stars="*"> A pleasant layback start to this bottomless offwidth. Hidden holds make offwidth techniques unnecessary. Big pro and a steep finish add atmosphere. Peter Jackson Marcel Jackson Aug 90.</climb><climb
extra="4B" grade="23" length="12m" name="Goodness Gracious"
new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="A lovely route going up the slightly overhanging arete wall right of Bodyguard. Apparently Roger was ahead of his time installing Tasmania's first all U-anchor route, pity about the lack of lower-offs. Roger Parkyn Sep 93."> A lovely route going up the slightly overhanging arete wall right of Bodyguard. Apparently Roger was ahead of his time installing Tasmania's first all U-anchor route, pity about the lack of lower-offs. Roger Parkyn Sep 93.</climb><climb
grade="19" length="10m" name="The Jaw" number=""
stars="**"> A sporting start to the bottomless crack. Start the face just left of the crack and continue straight to the top. Fabulous deep slot halfway up. Marcel Jackson Peter Jackson Jul 90</climb><climb
grade="24" length="10m" name="Ju Ju" number=""
stars=""> The overhanging crack on the nose to the right. Continue up to the slot on The Jaw and finish up the offwidth on the right. FA. Peter Jackson Hamish Jackson Sep 90. FFA Nick Hancock 10-6-2001.</climb><climb
extra="4B" grade="26" length="15m" name="Born Under a Bad Sign"
new="false" number=""
stars="*">Climb the arête right of Ju Ju. Nick Hancock (climbing) & Roger Parkyn (cheat stone support), June 2004.
</climb><climb
grade="19" length="10m" name="Free Space" number=""
stars="*"> A superb, photogenic route. Up the crack on the right of the wall, crux at the top. Traverse left across the face to finish up the short crack. Marcel Jackson Peter Jackson Jul 90</climb><climb
grade="22" length="9m" name="Elvis Goes Metal" number=""
stars="**"> Bizzarre double arete spanning can be used to ascend the lone pillar buttress right of Free Space. This route may be harder or easier depending upon your arm-span. Roger Parkyn Sep 93</climb><climb
grade="16" length="10m" name="Gumboots" number=""
stars=""> The wide crack just right of the descent gully, awkward finish. Peter Jackson Sep 90</climb><climb
grade="18" length="10m" name="Dexterous Grey Turner" number=""
stars=""> The corner crack just to the right. Peter Jackson Sep 90.</climb><climb
extra="4B" grade="24" length="12m" name="Dead Can't Dance"
new="false" number="" stars="*"
value="The face with 4 U-bolts just L of Lud Heat. No lower-offs. Nick Hancock Sep 01"> The face with 4 U-bolts just L of Lud Heat. No lower-offs. Nick Hancock Sep 01</climb><climb
extra="4B" grade="25" length="12m" name="Action Replay"
new="false" number="" stars="***"
value="Crank up the orange featured wall 3m left of Lud Heat, 4 BRs. No lower-offs. Sam Edwards Gary Phillips Oct 95."> Crank up the orange featured wall 3m left of Lud Heat, 4 BRs. No lower-offs. Sam Edwards Gary Phillips Oct 95.</climb><climb
grade="23" length="13m" name="Lud Heat" number=""
stars="***"> A continuously overhanging and technical line up the centre of the red buttress left of Razoo. Up the overhanging corner, then through the roof and up the headwall. Hamish Jackson Apr 92</climb><climb
grade="20" length="10m" name="Homeless" number=""
stars=""> A forceful statement across the overhanging horizontal line on the next wall. Starts up Razoo to the overhang on the left. Traverse the obvious line left to finish on the broken rock. Marcel Jackson Sep 90</climb><climb
grade="12" length="10m" name="Razoo" number=""
stars=""> Climb the face on the outside of the wide sloping crack. Marcel Jackson Peter Jackson Jul 90</climb><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="10m" name="Infundibulum" new="false"
number="" stars="***"
value="The thin discontinuous crack up the overhanging face to the right (it looks laid back). Finish up the obvious slanting crack. Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson Aug 90"> The thin discontinuous crack up the overhanging face to the right (it looks laid back). Finish up the obvious slanting crack. Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson Aug 90</climb><climb
extra="" grade="9" length="10m" name="Simon Says" new="false"
number="" stars="*"
value="Just round to the right an overhanging start gives way to moderate rock. Peter Jackson, Marcel Jackson Jul 90"> Just round to the right an overhanging start gives way to moderate rock. Peter Jackson, Marcel Jackson Jul 90</climb><climb
grade="18" length="10m" name="Fingerprints" number=""
stars="*"> A very neat little route. A metre or so to the right of Simon Says. Up the steep face to mantel on the flake. Thin wires at this point. Finish direct. Marcel, Hamish Peter Jackson Sep 90</climb><climb
grade="21" length="35m" name="Stealth" number=""
stars=""> A few hundred metres to the right of the boulder is a smooth sweep of rock with a thin diagonal running up right from low on the left. Begin below the left end. Up to the line at 8m (crux) and place a small piton runner. Continue across the line to finish on the hillside after it breaks up. Easier to the top. Marcel Jackson Peter Jackson Aug 90</climb><text
class="heading3">Milennium</text><text
class="Discussion">Ten minutes up the hill above Gracelands on the way to Broadway is a large south west facing block with thin flake blade in a gully on its right. Two climbs exist on the block.</text><climb
grade="15" length="20m" name="Bladerunner" number=""
stars=""> Climb the flake starting on the right. From the top of the flake follow cracks to the summit of the boulder. Unprotected for the first half and descent is best facilitated by counterbalance abseil. Nick Hancock 14-8-01.</climb><climb
extra="4B" grade="21" length="15m" name="Milennium Falcon"
new="false" number="" stars="*"
value="Just right of Blade Runner is an arete sporting 4 u-bolts (no lower-offs). Nick Hancock 14-8-01."> Just right of Blade Runner is an arete sporting 4 u-bolts (no lower-offs). Nick Hancock 14-8-01.</climb><text
class="heading3">Broadway</text><text
class="Discussion">Three routes on a crag about 20 minutes up the hill behind Gracelands. Follow the ridge until opposite another Sow-like cliff on the right. Cross the wide, shallow gully with ease and so to the cliff. There are some large flakes in the central broken section where two or three small trees grow. Left of these the angle is steep and inhospitable. The routes described are to the right.</text><climb
grade="12" length="45m" name="Schinus Molle" number=""
stars="">A ramp leads towards the trees from the right. 1. 30m Pull up to a jug and mantelshelf. Follow the ramp easily up left to ledges. Climb a short thin crack and go between large blocks to belay on ledge. 2. 15m Go up on small holds to finish direct. Hamish Jackson Peter Jackson Apr 92</climb><climb
grade="15" length="35m" name="C 3 P O" number=""
stars="">Start as for Schinus Molle. 1. 25m Continue more directly to go over a couple of steep steps and sparse protection. Head for the right hand end of the large rectangular flake. Belay on the ledge at the top of the flake. 2. 10m Step right and go up the twin fused cracks on excellent rock with little or no protection, an attractive finish. Peter Jackson Hamish Jackson Apr 92</climb><climb
grade="20" length="35m" name="Tingles" number=""
stars=""> An excellent little route with a serious crux and a delightful finish. Start right of the previous two routes just right of the white streaks. Go up past two diagonal cracks. Go up the thin line on a steep slab and head for the obvious slot at the top where protection can be organised. Continue to the bulge on the left. An easy crack leads through this and continues up to the top. H.Jackson P.Jackson Apr 92</climb><text
class="heading3">Speaker Box</text><text
class="Discussion">Very roughly, at the same level as the base of Sow Spur and a long way to the left is a large rectangular boulder which is clearly visible from almost anywhere in Coles Bay. The easiest approach is via the foot of Sow Spur.</text><climb
extra="5B" grade="27" length="25m" name="The Crystal Maze"
new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="The blank looking face 10 metres left of Greenvine via 5 U-bolts (no lower-offs). Nick Hancock, Oct 01"> The blank looking face 10 metres left of Greenvine via 5 U-bolts (no lower-offs). Nick Hancock, Oct 01</climb><climb
grade="20" length="25m" name="Greenvine" number=""
stars="**"> A varied and characterful route up a great boulder. Start Below the one crack going up the middle and moving left at top. Boulder up to the glacis below the overhang, place a runner, and make a difficult mantel onto the hanging ledge on the right. Pull round the short impending wall and up to the big jug. Step left and follow the crack ot the top. Marcel Jackson Peter Jackson Dec 89</climb><climb
grade="25" length="30m" name="Speak Of The Devil" number=""
stars="*"> Start up Greenvine and then move right along the dyke to the arete, where a rockover leads to a U-bolt. Pass this with difficulty and finish up the arete. Nick Hancock Sophie LeRoux, Oct 01</climb><climb
extra="2B" grade="22" length="10m" name="Sophie's Evil Choice"
new="false" number="" stars="*"
value="Fifty metres above Speaker Box is a boulder with a sharp arete facing northwest. Climb this via 2 U-bolts to a lower off. Sophie LeRoux Nick Hancock, Oct 01"> Fifty metres above Speaker Box is a boulder with a sharp arete facing northwest. Climb this via 2 U-bolts to a lower off. Sophie LeRoux Nick Hancock, Oct 01</climb><text
class="heading3">Mystic Cliff</text><text
class="Discussion">This crag is located about 50 metres directly below Speaker Box. It can be identified by its very overhanging nature; being composed of big jutting roofs. The easiest approach is probably from above via Speaker Box, as the direct approach from just after the marshy gully on the Sow Spur track is through fairly dense bush.</text><climb
extra="6B" grade="26" length="20m"
name="To Light A Candle Is To Cast A Shadow" new="false"
number="" stars="**"
value="Just left of centre is a left facing corner guarded by a blank roof. Climb up slabby rock to a small bush and a 1 friend in an undercut. Move up right to a U-bolt then stretch across the roof to clip another. Gain the corner crack with difficulty and follow this to the capping roof. Move right to a rest on a spike, then traverse R along a rail to a hard finish straight up. 6 U-bolts in total. No lower offs. Nick Hancock Mar 02"> Just left of centre is a left facing corner guarded by a blank roof. Climb up slabby rock to a small bush and a 1 friend in an undercut. Move up right to a U-bolt then stretch across the roof to clip another. Gain the corner crack with difficulty and follow this to the capping roof. Move right to a rest on a spike, then traverse R along a rail to a hard finish straight up. 6 U-bolts in total. No lower offs. Nick Hancock Mar 02</climb>
<text
class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">Mt Mayson</text><text
class="description">There are a two crags on Mt Mayson with some worthwhile routes and nice rock. To get there follow the walking track south towards Hazards Beach from the car park. After about 25 minutes the pyramid shaped upper crag is visible on the skyline. Walk another 5 minutes until the track starts going up hill over some slabs where you'll find a few painted yellow arrows marking the walking track. Leave the track here and head up towards a prominant boulder on the end of the ridge. Bash around the right hand side of this to gain the ridge, then follow the top of the ridge to the base of the less-than-vertical lower crag. In the middle of the crag is a prominent smooth white water streak.</text><text
class="Discussion">The first route is on the way to the Mt. Mayson Crag. Half an hour from the Mt Amos car park, along the Hazards Beach track, you'll cross open slabs and shortly after a creek bed with a plank across it. Just after this head right through moderate scrub for a minute to a southwest facing sea cliff.</text><text
class="heading3">Earth Sea</text><climb grade="26" length="30m"
name="The Farthest Shore" number=""
stars="**"> Abseil down a groove just left (looking out) of the prow of the cliff and swing past a big thread to belay below the feint central line up the shield. Climb to a good horizontal, then follow the desperate, Arapiles like, seam to a good jug on the right. Go up left (4 Friend) and follow the seam up the final headwall. Nick Hancock Mark Bennis, Nov 01</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Mt Mayson Lower Crag</text><climb grade="14"
length="10m" name="Antarctica" number=""
stars=""> Start 5m to the left of Seams Ideal at the base of a buttress with a few semi-detached blocks. Follow the crack lines to the top. Sam Martin, John Anderson 10 6 01</climb><climb
grade="21" length="12m" name="Seams Ideal" number=""
stars=""> About 10m to the left of the water streak is a thin seam up the middle of a buttress. Bouldery start with RPs for protection. Climb the seam for 3m then reach out right for holds and up to jug (and a nut placement) at 5m, then more easily to the top. The seam direct has been done on toprope and is a grade harder. John Anderson 10 6 01.</climb><climb
grade="18" length="20m" name="Son Of Scheming Saturn" number=""
stars=""> 10m to the right of the water streak, past a broken corner and flake, is a shallow corner and crack below a bulge. Climb the face to the corner, then up to the bulge. Pull around on the left (crux) and then climb the juggy slab to the right of the crack to the top. Good value. Jon Nermut, John Anderson, Sam Martin 10 6 01</climb><climb
grade="16" length="20m" name="Dos Gosanos" number=""
stars=""> Start 3m to the right of Son of Scheming Saturn. Follow the line of weakness on good holds to the base of an offwidth, then climb the slab to the right to the top. John Anderson, Jon Nermut 28 12 97</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Mt Mayson Upper Crag</text><text
class="Discussion">From the top of the lower crag head up and left to the base of the higher upper crag. There are a few more lines to be done here.</text><climb
grade="17" length="35m" name="Rattus Splattus" number=""
stars="">1. 25m Climb the obvious crack line in the centre of the cliff to the large ledge (better than it looks). 2. 10m Step right and bridge up the triple crack system (crux) to the very top of the buttress. Jonathan Nermut, John Anderson 28 12 97.</climb><text
class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">Schouten Island</text><text
class="heading3">Schouten Island Trumpeter Bay</text><text
class="Discussion">There are some established climbs on Schouten Island, put up in around 1998. To get there you'll need a boat of some description. Head through Schouten Passage and into Trumpeter Bay. At the back of the bay is a penguin colony and small creek. Head ashore here. This is probably also the best spot to camp, as it is one of few with water. Shootin' Dome (as the cliff is called) can be seen on the way into the bay, and from the penguin colony.</text><text
class="Discussion">There is no real track up to the cliff, but approximately 45 minutes of bush bashing should get you there. Head for the slabs, which will then lead up to the Dome. Descent is best facilitated by walking down either left or right (depending on which is closest to your gear). For the most part the climbing is on natural gear, but there are a few rap-placed carrots to ease the tension, so don't forget a couple of brackets.</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
src="coles bay schouten.png" width="">null</image><climb
grade="16" length="40m" name="Unamed" number=""
stars=""> Up the widish crack on the left of the dome, to a roof. Pass this and follow the lfet trending line to the top. Robert Mcmahon, Adam Donahue Norm Selby, 1998.</climb><climb
grade="21" length="45m" name="Under Tow" number=""
stars=""> Start on the left hand arete of the main face. Head up for approx. 10m, until it is possible to traverse left to the arete. Follow this until it is possible to follow the line and gear back rightwards to the top. Adam Donahue, Norm Selby, Robert Mcmahon, 1998.</climb><climb
grade="22" length="45m" name="Cortez the Killer" number=""
stars=""> Start as for Under Tow, but head right after 10m to the orange stripes and crack. Head up past two carrots, trending slightly right. A bit run out after the second carrot. Adam Donahue, Norm Selby, Robert Mcmahon, 1998.</climb><climb
grade="21" length="42m"
name="Eager Triggers, Hidden Loot And Desperate Men" number=""
stars=""> Start 5m right of Cortez the Killer. Climb the crack for around 10m, at which point you can move right a few meters and up to a carrot. From the bolt make your way left and then back right to the top. Adam Donahue, Norm Selby, Robert Mcmahon, 1998.</climb><climb
grade="23" length="35m" name="The Groove Tube" number=""
stars=""> Start 10m right of Eager Triggers, on the right of a leaning block. Climb the block and the water washed groove, passing two carrots and some gear on the way. Adam Donahue, Norm Selby, Robert Mcmahon, 1998.</climb><climb
grade="22" length="35m" name="The Last Ride Out Of Texas"
number=""
stars=""> Climb the crack line a few meters right of Groove Tube. A little run out at the top. Norm Selby, Adam Dobahue Robert Mcmahon, 1998.</climb><climb
grade="19" length="35m" name="Unnamed" number=""
stars=""> A few meters right of the last climb is the easiest line on the main face. Adam Donahue, Norm Selby, Robert Mcmahon, 1998.</climb><climb
grade="19" length="20m" name="Unnamed" number=""
stars=""> 15 to 20 meters right of the last climb is a wandering crack that leads up the slab. Follow this to the top. Robert Mcmahon, Adam Donahue Norm Selby, 1998.</climb><climb
grade="17" length="20m" name="Unnamed" number=""
stars=""> To find this climb wander around to the back of the cliff to find a line near a boulder behind a tree. Climb to the top of the boulder and gain the left trending diagonal. Follow this, via the off-width, to the top. Robert Mcmahon, Adam Donahue Norm Selby, 1998.</climb><text
class="heading3">Schouten Island Slaughterhouse Bay</text><text
class="description">At the southern tip of the island. A long walk for little reward according to Neale.</text><climb
grade="18" length="15m" name="Flea in the Ear" number=""
stars=""> On the buttress looking like a dog's head. Follow the line via the ear. Neale Smith, Bruce Cameron, Easter 1981.</climb><climb
grade="17" length="13m" name="Sniffing Assholes With My Friend"
number="" stars=""> A crack on the right side of the same buttress. Bruce Cameron, Neale Smith, Easter 1981.</climb>
</guide>
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