<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide guidestars="*"><text class="heading1">Elderslie</text><text
class="intro">The bouldering at Elderslie is on sandstone boulders and is quite good. It was originally discovered by Mike Berry and developed by Stu Bowling & friends in early 2001 and after many trips now has about 50 problems, and more waiting to be done.
</text><image
src="Elderslieemap1.jpg"/><text class="text" new="false"
number="null.">To get there drive up the Midlands Highway from Hobart towards Brighton. Take the left hand road just before Brighton (Elderslie Road). Follow this road for 15 minutes or so before reaching Elderslie (not much more than a few farms and a golf club). Take a right a few kilometres out of Elderslie (Clifton Vale Road) and follow this dirt road for about 5 kilometres before reaching a Y intersection; take the right road (to Dysart), you will go up a rise and then the road will go down again, at the bottom of this hill on the left is the fire trail about 1 kilometre from the intersection. (Note: This first area is now mostly inaccessible, unless you can convince the new landowners otherwise!). You walk up here for 100m or so and then to your left is Slug Rock (amongst the trees) and the Ant Rocks are about 100m uphill from here. Drive on another 200m or so and on the right is the pullover next to the creek, opposite the obvious Roadside boulders. Park here to access the Block (access at your own risk!) and Forbidden Forest areas.</text><text
class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">Roadside Boulders</text><text class="text"
new="false"
number="null.">There are 4 or so obvious freestanding boulders right by the parking area. To my knowledge for some reason these have never been developed. There are probably about 10 problems to be done here, but they need some cleaning. They are literally 10m from the road, and there is no fence, so access should not be an issue.</text><text
class="heading2">The Block
</text><image
src="Elderslieblockmap.jpg"/><text class="text" new="false"
number="null.">Park at the pullover on the right side of the road just before the roadside boulders and walk along the road for about 50m, there is a bit of a track up to the left. Walk to the top of this first small hill to reach the Block via other boulders including the Voltage boulder. Many new problems still await ascents in this area though rock quality might not be as good as some of the more established problems. These boulders are presumably on the same land as the Ant and Slug boulders, and so have the same access problems, but they are a bit further away from the house.</text><text
class="heading3">Block Boulder
</text><image
src="ElderslieElderslie_topos_blockA.jpe"/><problem
extra=" " grade="V1" name=" " number="1."
stars=" ">Sit start up arete</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V2" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">Sit start on pocket</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="3."
stars=" ">From pocket and slope to top</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="4."
stars=" ">Sit start just right of arete</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V2" name=" " number="5."
stars=" ">Up arete</problem><problem extra=" "
grade="V5+" name="The Urvile" number="6."
stars="*">Sit start, up to slopey break and top out.</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V8" name=" " number="7."
stars=" ">Stand start up middle of face</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="8."
stars=" ">Up just left of arete</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V4" name=" " number="9."
stars=" ">Sit start to top out</problem><text
class="heading3">Yellow Boulder</text><image
src="ElderslieElderslie_topos_InfrontBlockA.jpe"/><problem
extra=" " grade="V2" name=" " number="1."
stars=" ">Jump to jugs, top out</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V5" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">Sit start-crimp-jugs-topout</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="3."
stars=" ">Highball up blunt arete</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V6" name=" " number="4."
stars=" ">Start at back of roof</problem><text
class="heading3">Others
</text><problem extra=" "
grade="V4" name=" " number="10."
stars=" ">Stand start on side pull with left, pop to top</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V?" name=" " number=" "
stars=" ">Project, sit start to 10</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V8+" name="Voltage" number="11."
stars="*">Up slightly overhanging face on very thin holds. Distinctive triangular face on the way to the Block.</problem><text
class="heading2">Slug Rock
</text><text
class="access">Park at the bottom of the fire trail on the left. Walk up the fire trail for about 200m before shooting off to the left for about 80m, if you get to the top of the hill you've gone to far. Access is now an issue to this area as a house has been built just down hill from Slug Rock. Confirm accessibility with land owners before climbing.</text><text
class="heading3">Slug Rock
</text><image
src="Elderslieslug1.jpg"/><problem extra=" " grade="VE"
name=" " number="1."
stars=" ">Easy, up slab</problem><problem extra=" "
grade="V3" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">Start in corner and up</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V6" name=" " number="3."
stars=" ">Sit start on crimps</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V6" name=" " number="4."
stars=" ">Sit start on crimps up to finger lock</problem><text
class="heading3">Ant Boulder
</text><text
class="access">The ant boulder is just up the hill from Slug Rock and Boulder 2 is just around the hill from Slug Rock</text><image
src="Elderslieant.jpg"/><problem extra=" " grade="V1"
name="Bogus" number="1."
stars=" ">Stand start at jugs. Up through good holds to top out.</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V3+" name="Ant Trail" number="2."
stars=" ">Stand start. Up through good edges, slopey top out.</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V4" name=" " number="3."
stars=" ">Sit start on small edges, move left before trending right to top out on good holds.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V4+" name="Goldfinger" number="4."
stars="*">Sit start under small roof. Move through reasonable edges, dyno to lip, mantle top out.</problem><text
class="heading3">Boulder 2
</text><text
class="text">This outcrop is just to the left of Slug rock.</text><image
src="Elderslieboulder2.jpg"/><problem extra=" " grade="V3"
name=" " number="1."
stars=" ">Sit start on lip of small cave. Up through good holds trending left to slopey top out.</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V4" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">Same as for 1, trending right slightly to worse top out.</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V5" name="Watch Me" number="3."
stars=" ">Stand start at good holds at half height. Straight up through reasonable holds to crux slopey top out. Good spotting required.</problem><text
class="pagebreak">
</text><text
class="heading2">Forbidden Forest
</text><text class="text"
new="false"
number="null.">The Forbidden Forest is currently off limits to climbing. Do not climb here without permission. </text><text
class="access">Park as for the block area and walk across the paddock, obviously not in the poppy season. Cross the creek (sometimes dry) and turn left up towards the fence line, follow this (and the overhead power lines) until you get to a gate on the left. Go through this and continue along the fence / power line and the 4WD track for another 100m or so. The boulders are up to the left amongst the trees, the first to come into sight is the overhang with problem 1. on it.
As with all the climbing at Elderslie, the Forbidden Forest is on private land. To gain permission call into the white house marked on the map. </text><image
src="Elderslieforb.JPG"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V8"
name="Red Dragon" number="1."
stars=" ">The first problem to come into view when walking along the 4WD track, climbs out through the roof, trending left via sloper at the top.</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V?" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">There are various problems up this face</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V?" name=" " number="3."
stars=" ">Project, up left arete</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V9" name=" " number="4."
stars=" ">Sit start up wall</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V9" name="Sams Arete" number="5."
stars="*">Sit start on edges to slopey lay back, dyno to jug. Powerful and hard as is to be expected.</problem><image
src="Elderslieslowtwitch.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)"
grade="V8+" name="Slow twitch" number="6."
stars="**">Sit start trending slightly right on small edges. Dyno for jug at lip.</problem><image
src="Eldersliescopion.jpg"/><problem extra=" "
grade="V3/4" name="Scorpion" number="7."
stars=" ">Campus out to lip and left. A bit scary, use some mats.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V3/4" name="Jerry the Belly Button Elf"
number="8."
stars=" ">Sit Start, up the right hand side of the short black wall.</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V2" name=" " number="9."
stars=" ">Sit start up middle of wall</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Tuna Brillo" number="10."
stars=" ">Up middle of sandy cave via slopes and layaway to top. Attentive spotters!</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V2" name=" " number="11."
stars=" ">Up wall around arete from sandy cave</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V8" name="Wrap it" number="12."
stars=" ">Sit start double pinching, up via edges and arete.</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V4" name=" " number="13."
stars=" ">Stand start up arete just right of 12</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V6" name="California Girls" number="13a."
stars="*">Sit start 2m right of arete and climb left into no 13. on crimps.</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V2" name="Pavlova" number="14."
stars=" ">Up middle of face on positive edges.</problem><image
src="Elderslieelmo.jpg"/><problem extra=" " grade="V1"
name=" " number="15."
stars=" ">Up wall</problem><problem extra=" "
grade="V1" name=" " number="16."
stars=" ">Up wall</problem><problem extra="(SDS)"
grade="V4" name="Elmos world" number="17."
stars="**">Sit start left of arete on good holds. Move straight up (no arete) on good holds to lip.</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V2+" name="The Pox" number="18."
stars=" ">Up mossy face on small crumbly edges. Poxy!</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V5" name=" " number="19."
stars=" ">Up smooth slightly overhanging face</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V7" name="Locust Abortion Technician"
number="20."
stars="*">Sit start on jug, move left, up around bulge.</problem><problem
extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V0"
name="Big Al's Meat Patties" number="20a."
stars=" ">High ball up crusty side of largest boulder.</problem><text
class="access">These problems are in the cave, described from left to right.
</text><problem
extra=" " grade="V5" name="Cams Dyno" number="21."
stars=" ">Dyno from the jug to the top.</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V6" name=" " number="22."
stars=" ">Start with left heel on the jug in 21 and hands on crimps, move right on edges and up.</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V8" name=" " number="23."
stars=" ">Start at back of cave and climb out on small edges.</problem><text
class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">The Gully</text><text class="text" new="false"
number="null.">The Gully is a new area, and will be described sooner or later.</text><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Crystal Boulder</text><image new="false"
number="null." src="crystal.jpg" width="">null</image><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="1."
stars="">Left arete</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V5"
name="The Crystal" new="false" number="2."
stars="**">Sloper problem in middle of face. The obvious sit start is a project.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="3."
stars="">Jugs to the right. Pretty dirty.</problem><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Paydirt Boulder</text><image new="false"
number="null." src="paydirt.jpg" width="">null</image><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="1."
stars=""/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="" new="false"
number="2." stars="">Left arete</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="3."
stars="">Mantle</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1"
name="" new="false" number="4."
stars="">Swing start up to highest part of boulder</problem><problem
extra="(Hang)" grade="V3" name="Paydirt" new="false" number="5."
stars="*">Right arete of steep face. Hang start and up arete. The full sit start needs to be done.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="" new="false" number=""
stars="">Short arete on back of boulder.</problem><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Butterflies Boulder</text><image new="false"
number="null." src="butterfliesfront.jpg"
width="">null</image><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4"
name="Butterflies" new="false" number="1."
stars="*">Steep start in under arete, then step left onto slab and top out.</problem><image
new="false" number="null." src="butterfliesback.jpg"
width="">null</image><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V6"
name="If Six Was Nine" new="false" number="2."
stars="***">Sit start off opposing side pulls in middle of steep face, up on edges. </problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="3."
stars="">Project - right arete</problem><image new="true"></image></guide>
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