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<guide><text class="heading1" new="false"
        number="null.">Waterworks Quarry</text><text class="Editor"
        number="null.">by John Domeney, originally published in Craglets.</text><text
        class="text">A rock is a rock they say, but don’t believe everything you read in the CCT newsletter. If you think bolted routes take the adventure out of climbing then it’s time you paid a visit to the birthplace of the world’s next fad; choss climbing!</text><text
        class="text">Take one tottering pile of exfoliating rubble, add wide-eyed climbers with psychotic hammer drills and shares in Ramset. The result: a multitude of good routes carefully engineered so that every ascent is a first ascent i.e. all the holds break all the time.</text><text
        class="text">Cleverly positioned so you can fit in at least two or three nightmare epics after work, the Quarry is on Waterworks Road (surprise) between Lynton Ave and Romilly Street in Dynyrne.</text><text
        class="text">The procedure for doing new routes is as follows. Put on a blindfold, rap down, drilling at random. Carry a sack of rocks to place on holds so that every ascentionist gets a “unique” experience and every belayer gets a discount lobotomy.</text><text
        class="text">Remember, leading is the way to go here as the only other access to the chains is by jumping off the top and grabbing them on the way past.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="7m"
        name="Justin’s Crack">The ramp to S-shaped crack 20m left of Twilight Groping. Justin Kennedy.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="21" length="7m"
        name="Spiderman’s Arsehole">Start just right of Justin’s Crack . Follow a small shallow crack on tweaky holds (clip the bolt on Justin’s Crack. The crux starts at the second bolt. Jon Tiller, Nov/91.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="19" length="15m"
        name="Twilight Groping">Classic face climbing. The route is found just left of the nightmare descent from the top of Bastard Cancer. Richard Marshall, May/89.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="12" length="8m"
        name="Five Four">Start 10m left of Bastard Cancer. Jon Tiller, Aug/93.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="15m"
        name="Death Unto Racists">Start 2m left of Bastard Cancer. Jon Tiller, Aug/93.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="21" length="15m"
        name="Bastard Cancer">2B. The arete left of the big slab. Most ascents start up the corner to the immediate right (17). Small wires protect the top section which is easy. Richard Marshall, Feb/87.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="20m"
        name="Phantom Stone Thrower">Start 3m right of Bastard Cancer. Tricky slab climbing. Jon Tiller, Sep/93.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="24" length="20m"
        name="Les Grands Ensembles">Starts 1m to the left of Tour de France, and follows a line of seven bolts up to the chain at the top of TdF (the last bolt is not visible from the ground). Richard Cockerill, May/00.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="26/27" length="20m"
        name="Tour de France">The line of bolts (7) up the big slab right of Bastard Cancer. A well known test piece, originally bolted by Justin Kennedy and Richard Marshall circa 1987 but not climbed free until 1994! Difficult last clip. Hamish Jackson, Sep/94.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="21" length="20m"
        name="Serial Driller">Follow the steel to the right of Tour. John Domeney, Dec/93.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="20m"
        name="Open Festering Wounds">Start as for Serial Driller. Move right at the third bolt and up past six more to a chain. John  Domeney, Jan/94.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="23" length="10m"
        name="Sequels of the Light">The route finishes at a she-oak. Evan Peacock, Dec/92.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="23" length="10m"
        name="Pathetic Nongs Steal Hangers, Yes I’m Talking to You Arsehole">Four bolts up the groove 4m left of A.Rosa, Oct/92.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="19" length="10m"
        name="Trad Wankers Must Die">Climb up the loose pedestal, clip the bolt and climb up through shattered ground to bolt then on to more solid ground. Looks bad but is actually quite safe. J.Domeney, S.Stojanovski, Oct/92.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="10m"
        name="Oh Joyous Lobotomy">A route in the classic tradition of Waterworks Quarry. A route that will warm the hearts and minds of repeat ascentionists, chill them to the bone and make them sick to their stomachs.
This route epitomises its creators hedonistic and sociopathic style and is a textbook case of man against rock, rock against gravity and gravity against the combined forces of Ramset and Ryobi.
The first bolt, with its stark placement and uncompromising height off the deck, deftly describes mans inhumanity to man. It is also a vivid phallic symbol graphically outlining the first ascentionists subconscious insecurity about the size of his bit. The moves up the wall above form an abstract modern dance that brings to mind images of East European conflict especially the side-pull which is the key to reaching the third bolt and a new round of Geneva peace talks.
A man will always return to old stomping grounds and search for his roots; pulling up on the crucial razor sharp undercut one can almost feel them. The heady aroma of vast African plains drifts tantalizingly through ones nostrils and momentarily the mists of time part, you run, then walk, then crawl back down the evolutionary chain until an apelike heave sends you scurrying up and over the crux. You pause to appreciate the moment and the true symbolism of the metaphor, but a glance at the vacant expanse looming high to the left tells you the best is still to come. John Domeney Sep/93.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="23" length="10m"
        name="Urban Renewal">Up the corner diagonally left finishing up Trad Wankers. Evan Peacock, Dec/92.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="19" length="10m"
        name="Drilling in the Name of">Start up Urban Renewal to the third hanger, move right past 2 U’s to finish at the Jesus chain. John Domeney, Dec/93.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Jesus Built My Hammer Drill">The cliff classic, a chameleon of a route, changing every time. Three bolts. John Domeney, Oct/92.</climb></guide>