Well this has been on my to-do list for some time and I have finally got around to it. 

A bit of a geeky way around it but I think for future reference and some motivation for me and others it will be a useful resource. 

Tassie’s Hardest Routes

You can click on the tabs at the bottom of the spreadsheet to see some useful graphs and a list of projects.

Note: It’s not complete and needs editing!!

I am more then happy to grant anyone editing access just send me an email and I will do so. I just don’t want to have it open so any old chump can go in and delete all the data.

Hopefully soon I can start the “Tassies Hardest Boulders” spreadsheet.

Thanks to Garry Phillips for starting the list of routes and to Derek Thatcher for sharing his template!!

Who will do Tassie’s first 33?

  • No labels

37 Comments

  1. Will Bartlett

    Rad JB! Nice work!

  2. Jon Nermut

    Heres the list according to the climb search:

    hard climbs

    1. Gerry Narkowicz

      Add these to the list.
      A Colder Eye (25/26) at Victory Crag in the South ESk put up by Bob McMahon in 1985, originally graded 25 but consensus is now 26, making it the first grade 26 trad route in Tassie.
      King Of Kings Direct (26) at Riverbend was climbed in June 2000 by Gerry N making it equal to the hardest trad route in the state at the time.
      The Wizard (28) on Frews Flutes by Ingvar Lidman. Feb 2011
      Bridgemaster Zero (26) on Frews Flutes - Ingvar Lidman. Jan 2010

      1. alex lewis

        thanks for the history lesson Gerry, inspiring stuff.

        But hard routes start at 27 these days

        1. Gerry Narkowicz

          There are 26's on the list Alex so thats why I included them you smart arse little prick. Bet you can't do Colder Eye in 3 shots or less; oh, but its not a hard route cause its only 26. Originally done with a piton but since been led only twice since 1985, ground up using RPs. Good luck.

          1. alex lewis

            woah, calm tf down. 'Hard' has nothing to do with what i find hard, or you for that matter. In terms of world standards, 27 isnt exactly a high starting point for trad routes ( and why should TAS be any different?).

            If you looked at Jake's list (that this thread is about) then it starts at 8a for sport routes and 27 for trad routes (mixed routes dont count). 

            Nerm can put those routes on this list if he wants. A few of that list arent all on gear though and the starting grade is lower

            Since the gauntlet has been so adamantly thrown down, maybe i will try it. why 3 shots? did it take you 4 or something?

            1. Jon Nermut

              It's a more interesting list with the 26s on it. E6 or so - still hardish in the scheme of things.
              It's all straight from the guides which is why there is stuff missing from up north (they aren't in the guides) and why there are bolted/mixed routes in there (they don't have the bolt symbol on them in the guide). I really need to make another category for mixed routes which have some bolts or have carrots but aren't really sport routes

              1. alex lewis

                Fair call Jon, it does fill out the list a lot. maybe thesarvo can have an extra grade than the other one.  Other categories would be good, as i reckon a list of hard trad routes should be 100% gear (Just my opinion - others may disagree)

                1. John Fischer

                  I love the idea of "The List". Thanks Jake for coming up with this! I get pretty nerdy with tick lists after staying in the pines using the Arapiles Selected Best as a sort of bible. (Sorry about the text in this msg, it does not appear to be wrapping as I type!)

                  I agree with Alex. There should be one with all-gear routes. Big difference! Especially when you get to routes that are "mixed" bu have fixed gear that "wanders" or they climb it preplaced sometimes or blah blah blah. All gear routes that you climb placing the gear, then everything else!

            2. Doug Bruce

              Don't get sucked in by Gerry's petty little tirade. Climb what you want to climb for your own reasons.

              Gauntlet? Nope. Just ... " a tale told by an idiot, full of sound and fury, signifying nothing".

              1. Gerry Narkowicz

                why so personal lately Doug? When you've made some sort of significant contribution to Tasmanian climbing in terms of new routes, cliff discovery, guidebooks etc I might listen to your opinion. otherwise go fuck yourself.

                1. Simon Young

                  Whoa... Whys everyone taking this shit too seriously?! Just go explain rockclimbing to a non-participant and you'll soon realise how little it all means in the big scheme of things.

                  And lets not forget, just because you are/were a good climber doesnt make you right. A dickhead that climbs well is still a dickhead...

                  Doing a million new routes is great. But being a good
                  blokes more impressive. Lets remeber that just because you were the generation that was lucky enough to find some cliffs unclimbed, does NOT imply you are some visonary. Routes at crags like the gorge were not an ispirational leap forward in the climbing world. The same applies most of my routes, poxy little things that mostly just fill the gaps, im ok with that.

                  Maybe when the CCT gets going we can team up with a lawn bowls team, to provide people with something other than climbing to help them realise, ITS JUST CLIMBiNG!! Maybe then the ego can be dropped...

                  Say what u will about me, my mum thinks im cool...

                  TGC

                  1. Gerry Narkowicz

                    Simon you are one of those dickheads who climb well.

                  2. Dave Barnes

                    Well said. 

                  3. Gerry Narkowicz

                    Here I was thinking I was making a positive contribution to the forum, adding some 26 trad routes to the list (which has several 26's on it), then Alex makes some condescending remark about hard routes starting at 27 these days, so I call him a smart arse little prick. So then all the cockheads like Doug Bruce and Simon Young jump in when its none of their business. I've also noted the trashing tassie thread on chockstone and that Jesus cockhead talking about trashing Fingal, some cockhead named Winston whinging about no bolts on the Ben and Simon dissing the bolts at Hillwood. Firstly to Simon, there were some cutting edge routes done in the Gorge - Seize the Day was the hardest route in Tassie when it was put up on 3 bolts and small wires, which Micheal cockhead Fox retrobolted with 8 bolts much to Simon parsons disgust. If you don't like the bolts on some routes at Hillwood then don't climb them - I don't care - I enjoyed the first ascent and thats all that matters. As for abseil bolts on the Ben - they are gone forever and I'll go to the top of the Flutes when I'm 100 years old in a wheelchair and still chop any bolts that some cockhead has put in. Its all about convenience. They say they want to protect the gullies but really they are lazy. If you want to rap in, set up fixed line from the top off natural gear. When people say `the majority of climbers' want the bolts back - who are this majority? Just a handful of Hobart boys who say they speak for the majority? How arrogant. What about Bob McMahon, Mick Ling, Neale Smith, Simon Parsons, John fantini, Doug Fife, Nick Hancock, pete Steane, Bruce Cameron, John Smart etc who all agreed with me and Doug Fife choppng the rap stations. Anyone thought that we could be the majority? As for Fingal, repeat ascensionists of our new sport routes have said - as good as anything I've seen in Tasmania. As for this ridiculous forum, Anna is the only sensible person who has commented; everyone else is a cockhead.

                    1. Simon Young

                      Its not what u say, its how you do it. Most people i speak to have a story about you being arogant, posturing and generally trying to show how much better you are than everybody else. You come across as wanting to be the centre of a very small universe. Why do u think so many people have something to say against you? And no its not just people from hobart. Forget this north/south business when the reality is its gerry/everyone.

                      As for hillwood its not all about you. What a great attitude to have about not caring about anyone else. You dictate to everyone about the ben, and the experience tey should have, then dont give a crap about another place. I suppose relgion dictates some degree of hypocrisy in your life. My concern is a bolt failing and injuring an innocent party.

                2. Doug Bruce

                  Oh dear, Gerry! The language! I am so deeply hurt (not) ... and wonder why you keep slagging off so at everyone who is not totally rapt in all that you say and do. Chill out, don't give people crap and you won't get it back. Simple, really. I hope this isn't too strong:

                  1. Gerry Narkowicz

                    If i gave a crap Doug would be the first person I'd give it to.

          2. Dave Barnes

            Here today. Forgotten tommorow.    

            1. Gerry Narkowicz

              Has Dave Barnes done any climbing worth talking about? You are a cockhead Dave

              1. Emlyn Jones

                Gerry, I don't know Dave, nor you personally, but if the yardstick that your using to judge people is their contribution to new routing and climbing in general, then it is a pointless metric. Its unlikely I'm ever going to climb 32 or tick a fraction of the climbs on this list, but I don't care ... its an interesting list, and thats all it is. Get off your high horse and go down in the history books as a new router and developer rather than a narcissistic tool. But maybe that's too late!

                1. Gerry Narkowicz

                  Emlyn Jones - yet another cockhead

                  1. Guy Abell

                    Surely this is a Troll!, no one is really this socially maladjusted. Awesome stuff!

                    1. John Fischer

                      "Socially Maladjusted" What a great name for a climb! Next time at benne loummonde...

                2. Dave Barnes

                  Gerry, I can still see you have a bit of preaching left in you.  Emlyn, it is just something to reflect on. Others, does anyone know what they are doing with the gear within the now defunct climbing gym in Hobart?  

  3. alex lewis

    how about another page for hardest trad routes?!  have to lower the grade (maybe start at 27?), but worth noting still!

    Who will break the 8a barrier on Gear?

    1. Jon Nermut

      The search list now has trad routes split out, but begs the question of what exactly is trad:
      hard climbs

      1. Simon Young

        That just comes down to the style of climbing/feel of the route i think. If its mixed, maybe put it in the trad section, as long as the trad bits not a doddle relative to the hard climbing. I spose its up to the people who've done a route to decide where it goes, not that it really matters!! Maybe calling them trad/adventure routes would help encompass things like Deeper Water(mostly bolted!)?

        Also, Completion Backwards is a sport route, should be moved!

  4. dave james

    what about 'Tassies easiest climbs' list?? i reckon a lot on it wouldn't have had a second ascent...

    1. John Fischer

      DJ- You just want to get recognized for being the guy putting up the softest FA's in the land! Although I reckon Scuze Me While I Kiss this Guy should get more ascents... ;)

  5. Dave Barnes

    Can anyone tell me what is happening with the climbing gym in Hobart.?  What is the owner doing with all that gear?

    1. Jon Nermut

      I heard he's looking at new locations at the moment

      1. Will Bartlett

        Heard rumors of a new gym in Kingston. I will believe when I see it!

  6. Dave Barnes

    I really would like some of those little climbing boots for my kids.  

  7. Andrew Windy Hill

    Thanks Jake, nice list even though I'll never climb them, except while day dreaming.but I'm more than happy doing sub 20's;) do you still have any of those holds you had for sale left?

    DaveB, my guess is nothing will happen until any legal stoush is finished, you could probably ring the number on the door to find out(?)

    1. Dave Barnes

      Thanks for that, Andrew, will do.

  8. John Fischer

    Hey Gerry! Your an international celebrity! Anna is following this "debate" about who is the biggest cockhead in the land, from bible school in Germany. Here is her take:

    From Anna:

    I read the rants of Gerry. Pretty bad! If you want to make him upset you could quote Galatians 5,22: “But the fruit of the Spirit is love, joy, peace, patience, kindness, goodness, faithfulness, gentleness and self-control.”

    BTW, You should be happy that Ingvar's route at the Ben is the hardest trad route at the moment... That is, till one of the Hobart boys downgrades it! See ya up there!