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<guide><text <guide guidestars="*" pagesize="500"><text class="heading1" new="false"
        number="null.">Lowdina</text><text class="Editor" new="false"
        number="null.">by Evan Peacock, originally published in Craglets</text><text
        class="text">These cliffs do not make an imposing or spectacular impression on the landscape. In fact most people drive past, within view of them, without noticing their presence.  When you get to the base of the cliffs, after the long uphill slog, the climbs look only marginally less mediocre.  More detailed inspection however, will reveal interesting and worthwhile problems at a wide range of grades.
A lot of Lowdina's appeal lies in its sheltered and comparatively warm aspect. Climbing can continue here through the winter.
In the early nineties activity at Lowdina was intense.  Most of the harder routes were done then; a lot of them by Evan.  Evan wrote the original guide, which has been reproduced here, pretty much unchanged, during that period.  We’veWe've also kept Evan’sEvan's annotation of routes with a symbol (§) to indicate the need for small wires.
In the mid nineties accesss to the cliff was closed off but more recently the situation has changed. Please repect the wishes of the landowners as failure to do so may see access again denied.
To get there drive towards Colebrook via Rchmond and Campania.  Just before the turnoff to Lowdina Rd, approximatly 4.2km from the Campania Pub, check into &quot;Westfield&quot; on the left and see the Bevens (62 604286 or 0418 604286) who own the clifff area.  They are happy to give permission to climb on their land but do ask you to sign a liability disclaimer before you climb.
From their gate turn left back onto the main road and then left again into Lowdina Road.  Follow the gravel road, parking at the railway line.  Cross the train tracks and head up the hill.  If you can spot the white-streaked rock then head for this - it’sit's Bismark Buttress and a good place to get your bearings from.</text><texttext><image
        new="false" noPrint="false" number="null." src="Lowdina.PNG"
        class="text">Beyond Scharnhorst the hillside turns to face more southerly into a gully and the cliff-line peters out.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="12" length="15m"
        name="Scharnhorst">Traverse around to the next major group of buttresses about 80m left of the most downhill buttresses. Climb the initial groove, then follow the contoured crack through the small roof, continuing roughly up the nose of the buttress. Avoid the loose slabs on the left near the top. Karl Prinz, Feb/75.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="16" length="15m"
        name="Blackheads and Beauty Spots">Start in the alcove 6m right of Scharnhorst, off the top of the pillar. Step across and up to the ledge below the flake. Go up the righthand crack, then move left and up past the righthand edge of the flake, finishing up the crack. Al Adams, Aug/88.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="16" length="12m"
        name="Drugs on Sunday">Start 8m right of Scharnhorst on the ledge below the brushed slab. Step up for the slope above, continue up to the next sloping ledge, then up the flake to the top. Al Adams, Aug/88.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="24" length="18m" name="Better Get A Bucket"
        stars=" ** ">Bold face climbing with a technical finish. Start immediately left of The Spastic Acrobat on the lefthand side of the arete. Climb to the horizontal at 3m (and place gear!) then launch for the bolt (hoping your belayer jumps downhill if you fall off clipping). Finish through the small roof on the left. Evan Peacock, Nov/91.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="20" length="15m" name="The Spastic Acrobat"
        stars=" *** ">About 20m right of Scharnhorst is an impressive face split by a horizontal break near the top. Start just right of the obvious crack, and go straight up the face to a small ledge. Continue up on small holds and layaways to the horizontal, then crank through to the finger crack and the top. Al Adams, Aug/88.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="10" length="15m"
        name="Seagull">An isolated pinnacle lies between Vulpecula and Scharnhorst buttresses. Climb the crack that forms a sweeping s-curve up the righthand side of the buttress. Mary McWhirther, Feb/75.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="11" length="30m"
        name="Vulpecula">About 50m beyond Torque Arm is a narrow talus slope, and beyond this another buttress lien protrudes down the hill. From the base of the buttress climb the nose past loose flakes to a broad ledge. Scramble on up the blocky ledges then finish up the obvious slab on the lefthand side. Kevin Kierman, Feb/75.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="22" length="22m" name="Punks and Lepers"
        stars=" ** ">About 10m right and uphill of Vulpecula if a face with a horizontal break at 4m. Climb to the break, then up the face to a flared crack (RP’sRP's) then up the crack to the top. Al Adams, Nov/88.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="15m"
        name="Torque Arm">Climbs the wall which forms the lefthand side of the Apr chimney. Gain the corner/groove just off the ground and climb it, passing right of the small roof. Cross left into the groove and climb this until able to move right into the crack and the top. Dave Humphries, Jul/84.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="10" length="20m"
        name="Ape">About 7m left of Anzac Day is a small buttress topped by a prominent 4m flake. Climb the narrow flaring chimney immediately to its left. Chris Viney, Apr/72.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="Anzac Day"
        stars=" ** ">About 50m up left of Finn is another line of buttresses that extends downhill. Start at (the base of) the lefthand side of the lowest buttress, and climb the slabby face for 5m, then up the 1m roof via a short crack. Move out right around the roof and up the wall above to the top. Dave Humphries, Jul/84.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="12m"
        name="Lejand">Start on the lefthand arete below the roof 2m right of Anzac Dayi. Climb the arete and crack above, trending to a large ledge. Move left to regain the arete, then up the righthand side of the wall to the top. Jeremy Rackham, Apr/92.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="18" length="15m" name="Mick Goes to Moonah"
        stars=" *** ">About 2m left of Chook Fever is a groove up the nose of the buttress. Follow it to the horizontal break, then continue more easily to the top. Dave Humphries, Jul/84.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="15m" name="Chook Fever"
        stars=" ** ">Just left of the amphitheatre between Finn and Anzac Day buttresses is a clean crackline up yellowish rock on the righthand side of the buttress. Jam through the bulge and up for 3m, move out right and up the fist crack for 3m, then finish up the corner. Dave Humphries, Jul/84.</climb><climb
        extra="*" grade="16" length="20m"
        name="Miss Rightboy">Start about 3m right of Chook Fever and climb the face, finishing up the first crack. Al Adams, May/86.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="18" length="15m" name="Boys in Bikinis"
        stars=" * ">Start 8m right of Chook Fever beneath a roof at 2m. Pull the roof on the lefthand side, then up layaways and back right to a fixed pin above the roof. Finish up the wee bulges above. Al Adams, Jun/88.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="22" length="15m" name="What Bunny Likes Best"
        stars=" * ">The face between Boys in Bikinis and Jot Jot Splat, past a BR and several wires. Contrived in staying out of the aforementioned. Evan Peacock, May/92.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="15m"
        name="Jot Jot Splat">Start in the recess just right of Boys in Bikinis and (bridge?) the hand/fist crack that opens up towards the top. Evan Peacock, May/90.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="8" length="25m" name="Finn"
        stars=" ** ">From Bumble traverse downhill to the base of the next major buttress which forms a series of blocky towers. Start off the block and follow the weakness straight up the nose which steepens at the top. Robert McMahon, 1969.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="10" length="25m" name="Bumble"
        stars=" ** ">From Cromlech go left around the base of the buttress and uphill to where an obvious ledge leads back right towards the nose. Follow the ledge then climb the crack to the ledge above Cromlech. Finish up the broken crack above, or via the nose on the left. Peter Jackson, May/71.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="19" length="25m" name="Tim’sTim's Excuses"
        stars=" *** ">Start just left of Cromlech. Climb the crack with lots of runners, finishing through the small roof (crux). Evan Peacock, Sep/91.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="13" length="18m"
        name="Cromlech">Start a few metres to the left of Tormentil. Climb the chimney which is loose at first and awkward in spots. Robert McMahon, 1969.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="9" length="15m"
        name="Tormentil">Traverse left and down from Orison for 60m to the next buttress system which protrudes down the hill. Right of the base of the buttress is a smooth curving corner crack facing right. Climb it. Peter Jackson, 1969.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="15" length="15m" name="Hummer"
        stars=" * ">The face climb 1m right of Tormentil. The runner placement requires some thought but is a bommer. Evan Peacock, Sep/91.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="12m"
        name="Garage Sale">Start about 15m right of Hummer on a slab, just past a roof-capped mini-buttress. Climb the lefthand of the two lines, finishing up the hand crack. Evan Peacock, Sep/91.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="11" length="12m"
        name="Little Black Balls">The line just right of Garage Sale and a good beginners route. Colin Reed, Sep/91.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="22" length="8m" name="Maggot On A Brick"
        stars=" ** ">The short sheltered face about 30m left of Daytime Delinquents just above The Naughty Bottom Burp. The climb has 2 bolts and three cruxes that get progressively easier. Garn Cooper, May/91.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="20" length="12m"
        name="The Naughty Bottom Burp">Start about 20m left of Rogering the Rock on a small separate buttress with a clean face line and chockstone filled chimney on the right, and at a sag bush. Climb up to the ledge on the lefthand side and a #2RP, then continue back right to the horizontal break. Climb up the sloping ledge and a knifeblade runner, then up to the top and loose blocks. Evan Peacock, Jun/90.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="20m" name="Rogering the Rock"
        stars=" * ">The result of some rather rigorous cleaning techniques…techniques... Start immediately left of Daytime Delinquents on a wide angles orange corner below a roof. Climb the corner past a BR on the right, then trend left to a large ledge, before finishing up the arete. Roger Parkyn, Jun/90.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="17" length="14m" name="Daytime Delinquents"
        stars=" * ">About 40m left of Orison is a separate buttress with a conspicuous roof at 5m. Follow the crack to the roof, then up the righthand line above. Al Adams, Dec/84.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="22" length="22m" name="Little Squeaky Feet"
        stars=" *** ">Proves camalots are better than friends! Start about 15m uphill from Something Scurrilous is a leftward trending RP crackline. Follow this up the overhanging wall, with the infamous camalot placement. Looks and is excellent. Evan Peacock, Dec/91.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="19" length="25m" name="Something Scurrilous"
        stars=" *** ">An excellent varied line. Start 25m left of Orison and 20m right of Daytime Delinquents, at a prominent buttress with a she-oak at its base. Climb the left side of the face behind the tree to a ledge at 4m. Continue up the central crack and bulge to a stance and RP. Climb the groove to the handcrack (crux), up this to the ledge, then hand traverse the large block out right to gain its top, then finish up the thin crack, belaying on the mainland. Al Adams, Jun/90.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="25m"
        name="Mega Smegma">Start at the weakness 3m right of Something Scurrilous. Climb the line to the bulge and pull through it on layaways. Continue up the tight handcrack to where it veers right. Continue up using a layaway edge and move left out into the chimney. Continue up the easy chimney and clamber across the void. Al Adams, Jun/90.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="16" length="25m"
        name="Genetic Junk Yard">Start on the downhill prow of the Catoblepas buttress, on a brushed slab. Climb easily up the slab to the roof, through this (RP runner) and continue easily. Al Adams, Dec/91.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="14" length="20m"
        name="Catoblepas">About 10m left of Orison is another large buttress. The line starts in a widish crack on the righthand side of the buttress, then trends left onto the eastward facing side. Continue straight up with the crux at the top. Garn Cooper, Oct/88.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="11" length="20m" name="Orison"
        stars=" *** ">Contour left from Bismark to the third buttress line which protrudes downhill to that level. The buttress rises from an elevated flat platform and has a narrow chimney on its right. From the platform, climb the obvious straight crack to the top. The flakes on the right should be treated with care, as should the possum. Robert McMahon, 1969.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="20m" name="Mulliner’sMulliner's Code"
        stars=" * ">The flake 3m right of Orison. Climb the crack up the lefthand side of the flake (whose attachment is of unknown strength). Either continue up the dirty gully above, or move left and climb the righthand edge of the delicately stacked flakes just right of Orison.  Peter Jackson, Jan/81.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="20m"
        name="Maelstrom">The slightly overhanging problem just right of Mulliner’sMulliner's Code. Climb up into the small sentry box until the line joins the aforementioned then continue up that line. Evan Peacock, Aug/88.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="20m"
        name="Ploughman’sPloughman's Launch">The line just left of the Aleknie’sAleknie's Defence buttress. Climb the arete on large holds to the horizontal break at 4m and runners. Continue up Mulliner’sMulliner's Code.  Evan Peacock, Sep/89.</climb><climb
        extra="§ " grade="19" length="12m" name="Gecko" new="false"
        stars="">The direct start and finish of Alekhine’sAlekhine's Defence. Adrian Herington, 1985.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="19" length="12m" name="Alekhine’sAlekhine's Defence"
        stars=" *** ">The face 5m right of Mulliner’sMulliner's Code. Climb the face trending diagonally left from the bottom righthand corner. Garn Cooper, Oct/84.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="15m" name="Electric Exercise Bike"
        stars=" ** ">About 5m left of The Ants Pants is a narrow chimney. Follow the groove up the face 2m right of this. Face climb to the sentry box at half height, then follow the crack to the top. Al Adams, Oct/84.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="20" length="15m" name="Liars and Losers"
        stars=" ** ">The left arete of the Bicycles Don’tDon't Fly buttress. A quality route, starting at the base of the arete. Climb to the small roof, reach over for a RP runner before continuing and more RP’sRP's. Mantle to a BR, then continue up the arete, before a final step left to a friend pocket and the tree belay. Al Adams, May/90.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="17" length="15m" name="Bicycles Don’tDon't Fly"
        stars=" ** ">Starts just left of The Ants Pants taking the line through the overlap up the middle of the face. Despite looks, there is good natural protection. Al Adams, Aug/85.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="13" length="15m"
        name="The Ants Pants">The crack up the face of the buttress 5m left of Ferio. Jam the crack to the overhang, then directly to the top. Bob Bull, Apr/71.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="22m" name="Don’tDon't Jolt That Bolt"
        stars=" ** ">To the right of The Ants Pants is a face route equipped with a bolt and a monster hanger. Start out right then move to an undercut left, then straight through past the bolt on some good moves. Can be harder for the not so tall. Al Adams, Sep/85.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="12m" name="Ferio"
        stars=" ** ">About 20m uphill to the right of Orison on the northern corner of the buttress is a clean corner. Layback to a resting spot on the left wall below where the crack narrows. Step right to place pro, then layback until a long reach brings a jug over the back. Finish directly up the steep corner. Peter Jackson, Jan/71.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="20" length="12m"
        name="Tall Dudes">Takes the line up the right wall of Ferio. Starts in a shallow groove and gains a small ledge. Continue up the lefthand side of the arete to the top. Al Adams, Jun/88.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="22" length="15m"
        name="Picnic in the Front Room"
        stars=" ** ">Follows the incipient crack 3m right and around the corner from Tall Dudes. Follow the fused crack until it ends - the crux in protected with a #0 friend. Step left and finish up Tall Dudes. Evan Peacock, Jan/90.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="12" length="8m"
        name="Directissimo Man">Climbs the nose of the second buttress line which protrudes downhill left of Bismark and about 40m right of Oisin. From the based of the flat rock platform, climb the obvious crack and face holds to the top. Al Adams, Jul/84.</climb><problem
        extra="" grade="V?" name="Fadel" new="false" number=""
        stars="">The boulder problem immediately left of Cryptic Clue (past the chimney). Colleen McCullough, Jun/90.</problem><climb
        extra="" grade="22" length="10m" name="Cryptic Clue"
        stars=" * ">Another utterly contrived test piece. Uphill in the gully left of Mr Queasy is a blank looking wall broken by a horizontal at about 7m. Climb the face on the lefthand side of the wall using a bolt and a pin for protection - but the lefthand arete is out of bounds! There are two loose blocks at the top, though they are keyed in. Al Adams, Oct/88.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="21" length="10m" name="Anagram"
        stars=" * ">The face to the right of Cryptic Clue. Start of the righthand edge, on face moves. Mantle up onto some slopes, stand, place RP’sRP's, then follow the incipient crack to the horizontal break. Finish straight up on good face holds. Evan Peacock, Oct/88.</climb><climb
        extra="M1 §" grade="19" length="15m"
        name="Ode to a Robotic Arm">Across the small gully right of Anagram is a brushed face with a thin crackline starting at half height. Climb the easy crack to a ledge and a #2RP aid move (or if you have a robotic arm climb it free via a desperately wide pinching layaway - awaiting a FFA). Clip the BR from a small edge, then continue up to a horizontal break and easy ground once the crack is attained. Evan Peacock, Jun/90.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="13" length="12m"
        name="Toes and Thumbs">Start down the notch from Konked Out. Follow the corner/crack system to the ledge and tree. Greg Aimer, 1991.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="12m"
        name="Mr Queasy">Go down the notch mentioned in Konked Out for 5m and on the left is a short handcrack. Belay at the eucalypt and climb the crack to the horizontal break. Surmount the bulge above for a slightly queasy experience, then reach through to a large ledge. Al Adams, Sep/88.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="12m"
        name="Konked Out">About 5m downhill and left of Zundapp is a notch with a prominent slab on the uphill side. Climb the slab to the ledge, then up the groove and through the bulge on the right. Al Adams, Jul/88.</climb><climb
        extra="** §" grade="18" length="20m"
        name="Zundapp">About 11m left and downhill of Paunch is an alcove with a dirty chimney up the lefthand side. Start 1m right, and continue up the brushed face with incipient cracks. Continue through the bulge and slab above, to finish up the right side of a small roof which leads to a short corner. Evan Peacock, Jul/88.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="13" length="12m"
        name="Sundy Mockry">The obvious crackline about 5m right of Zundapp.  Evan Peacock, May/90.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="12" length="10m"
        name="Paunch">About 25m left of Stung and across a grass gully is a high buttress with a tree at its base and rounded orange “paunch”&quot;paunch&quot; at half-height. Climb the crack through the bulges up the righthand side of the buttress. Peter Jackson, Feb/71.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="12" length="12m"
        name="No Corruption">Below Fat and Married lies an isolated buttress. The route takes the obvious crack up the center.  Russ Hinze, 1975-88.</climb><climb
        extra="* §" grade="18" length="15m"
        name="Fat and Married">Start at the arete on the extreme lefthand end of the Time Warp Jesus Trousers/Stung buttress. Climb up on layaways on the righthand side of the arete then cross left and continue up the face to the top. Evan Peacock, Aug/88.</climb><climb
        extra="* §" grade="17" length="12m"
        name="Get Out Oscar">Starts about 4m right if Fat and Married and just right of a chimney. A couple of unprotected but easy moves lead to a crack and bomber RP protection. Continue straight up. Evan Peacock, Oct/90.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="10" length="15m"
        name="Stung">About 5m left of Jesus Trousers is a chimney. Between them is a crack which begins at a flake at half height and finishes at a tree. Climb the right wall to the flake, then finish up the crack. Chris Dawson, Sep/74.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="12m"
        name="Jesus Trousers">From Wetcheck move diagonally uphill for 100m to a short face looking directly downhill with a dead She-oak atop. Handjam and bridge up the obvious corner-groove. Phil Steane, Oct/82.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="12m"
        name="Time Warp Direct">Start at the base of the buttress trending slightly right and follow the thin crack to rejoin the original route. Nat Duhig, Nov/86.</climb><climb
        extra="**" grade="17" length="12m"
        name="Time Warp">The thin crack up the face right of Jesus Trousers. Step onto the face from the block in the gully on the right, and continue using layaways, jams and face moves. Pete Steane, Oct/82.</climb><climb
        extra="*** §" grade="18" length="20m"
        name="Perchance to Dream">Located left of Bismark about 40m uphill. Starts up an unlikely looking face and poised above is a block attached to a gently overhanging arete. The move to attain the top of the block is fun! Garn Cooper, Dec/84.</climb><climb
        extra="** §" grade="18" length="18m"
        name="Spazattack">Climbs the big buttress 10m left of Wetcheck, passing the prominent roofs on the left. Just left of a thin right trending crack in the middle of the buttress (Spazattack Direct) is a groove line. Climb this to the horizontal break, then up the grooves above to the top. Garn Cooper, Oct/84.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="23" length="18m"
        name="Spazattack Direct">Takes the right trending crack in the middle of the Spazattack buttress, then straight up Spazattack. Evan Peacock, Jun/90.</climb><climb
        extra="*** §" grade="20" length="25m"
        name="Drury Line">Once tried many years ago by blockhead, but he gave up after breaking a drill, Tackles the roof right of Spazattack. The route is marked by guano courtesy of the local falcon. Climb the obvious easy face (no pro) to the horizontal break, then up to the first roof and a BR. Trend left to a groove and then straight up. Evan Peacock, Feb/92.</climb><climb
        extra="**" grade="26" length="20m"
        name="Being A Pirate">The overhanging arete 3m right of Drury Line. A desperate techno-slab, followed by a strenuous journey up the arete around the roof. 4BR’s4BR's. Evan Peacock, Sep/92.</climb><climb
        extra="**" grade="17" length="20m"
        name="Hooter">From the foot of Wetcheck move left onto the face of the buttress and follow the rising traverse across a thin flake to the horizontal crack and a piton runner. Continue straight up the vertical crackline (crux) to an easy mantle, then the pleasant crack to the top. Peter Jackson, 1984.</climb><climb
        extra="* §" grade="15" length="20m"
        name="Grasshopper Island">The companion to Hooter. Easier but perhaps more bold, and a typically good Lowdina face route. Takes the righthand line, bristling with runners (except for a 4m runout in the middle section). Evan Peacock, 1992.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="13" length="20m"
        name="Wetcheck">About 10m left and uphill from Bismark is a small bay with a couple of chimneys. Left of the chimneys and facing out is a straight crack. Climb it. John Moore, Aug/70.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="17" length="15m"
        name="Mrs Malaprop">The slab/face in the alcove just right of Wetcheck. Nice moves, but the runners are dubious (all wires). Evan Peacock, Aug/92.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="18" length="25m"
        name="V8 Donk">Start immediately left of Hood on a ledge about 10m up. Gain the left from the left and climb to the horizontal break. Crux to the small ledge, then follow the #1 RP crack, before a mantle to easier ground. Evan Peacock, Feb/92.</climb><climb
        extra="***" grade="16" length="30m"
        name="Hood">The original route at Lowdina. Start as for Bismark for 2m, then hand jam left onto the nose. Continue to the base of the wide crack, which is followed for 6m until able to step left onto the face. From the good foothold gain the wide crack above, and continue to the chimney and mantelshelf finish. Michael McHugh, 1968.</climb><climb
        extra="*" grade="15" length="25m"
        name="Subvert the Dominant Paradigm">Follows the crackline 1m left of Bismark. Finish right at the roof (second climbed through at grade 18). Garn Cooper, 1986.</climb><climb
        extra="**" grade="15" length="25m"
        name="Bismark">The obvious crack up the prow of the large central buttress. The initial 10m of easy rock can be avoided by scrambling around from the right. Climb up to the bulge, which is rounded using small holds on the nose. Continue past the small roofs and bridge up the chimney to the top. Michael McHugh, 1968.</climb><climb
        extra="* §" grade="22" length="15m"
        name="Doug’sDoug's Rat Roxanne">Climb the overhanging orange face right and round the arete from Bismark, past 2 BR’sBR's. Evan Peacock, Jun/91.</climb><climb
        extra="** §" grade="18" length="15m"
        name="Felix">Steep but on big holds, up the arete between Doug’sDoug's Rat Roxanne and Motorcycle Mama, past 2 BR’sBR's. Evan Peacock, Aug/92.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="11" length="15m"
        name="Motorcycle Mama">Atypical of the Lowdina scene. Start of the lefthand wall of a wide gully just left of Illegal Move. Follow the well protected crack (careful of loose rock at the top). Evan Peacock, May/90.</climb><climb
        extra="*" grade="19" length="12m"
        name="Illegal Move">Start immediately right of the Bismark ledge. A bouldery start leads to the crux at 7m (bolt protected). Continue up the finger crack, to finish with a haul over the chockstone.  Garn Cooper, Sep/85.</climb><climb
        extra="* §" grade="18" length="12m"
        name="Otto Sausages">A nice climb on RP’sRP's just right of Illegal Move. Climb the thin crack to a horizontal break - careful of the hanging block on the left. Evan peacock, Aug/92.</climb><climb
        extra="* §" grade="23/25" length="7m"
        name="Bonsai">Start up the gully and right of Illegal Move, where a steep orange/gray face stands at the head of the gully, with a native cherry on its right. From the bottom left of the face, climb the obvious line past a #3 RP where the line crosses right and up to a bolt. A small side-pull and long dyno leads to the ledge (or do it statically on the arete at grade 23), then finish easily. Marcel Jackson, Apr/90.</climb><climb
        extra="* §" grade="17" length="23m"
        name="Squak">Start immediately left around the corner from Ungar. Follow the thin fused crack through the series of ledges - face climb, mantle, face climb, mantle, ... finishing up the wide crack. Evan Peacock, Oct/88.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="25m"
        name="Ungar">About 30m uphill and right of Bismark if a buttress with three distinctive cracklines, taking the lefthand one. Climb the wide crack to the overhang, round this, then continue easily then strenuously through an orange bulge to a foothold. Gain the ledge on the left via a hidden sidepull, then move right onto the nose and on to the top. John Moore, Sep/70.</climb><climb
        extra="*** §" grade="22" length="25m"
        name="Plastacine Thylacine">Must be the best looking line at the cliff. Start on the platform 3m left and downhill from Virag, at the base of the bulging face near two trees. Climb the crack in the bulge (couple of #3 RP's which turned like a key), tackle the bulge proper (crux) to a BR, then some slab moves bring the horizontal at the base of the headwall. Straight up this on small wires to another BR, before exiting right to a wide crack which is followed into Virag. Evan Peacock, May/90.</climb><climb
        extra="**" grade="16" length="25m"
        name="Virag">The impressive crack right of Ungar. Climb the initial corner to the jammed block, bridge the roof, then continue up the crack above to the top of the flake. Follow the shallow corner to the roof, then swing left on jugs to finish. Michael McHugh, Jan/71.</climb><climb
        extra="***" grade="18" length="25m"
        name="Wolfetone">One of the classics of the cliff - the thin corner right of Virag. Climb the awkward corner/crack to a difficult exit onto the right wall. Climb the corner above, then power through the wide crack above. Robert McMahon, Nov/69.</climb><climb
        extra="*" grade="25" length="10m"
        name="A Salted Battery">The very steep face route on the back of Wolfetone. Start left of Baby Animals and climb up past 2 BR’sBR's (stick clip the first). Good fun! Evan Peacock, Sep/92.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="16" length="8m"
        name="Baby Animals">From Fruitless contour around left for about 20m to some largish boulders and a small face cleaned by rockfall. Climb the crack (small wires), with an interesting crux for short runts. Lucas Bottomley, Apr/91.</climb><climb
        extra="* §" grade="16" length="14m"
        name="Mr Whimpy">From Wolfe Tone move along to the second small buttress just right. Climb straight up the front of the buttress on flakes to the ledge on the right edge. Clip the fixed peg, then move back left onto the face of the summit block and up to finish. Noel Ward, Jul/84.</climb><climb
        extra="* §" grade="18" length="12m"
        name="Fruitless">From Mr Whimpy move right and up the gully for 20m to a roundish buttress opposite Sweetie, with a small yellow roof halfway up. Climb the face of the buttress for 6m to the ledge below the roof, move left round it, then back right to the crack and the top. Garn Cooper, Sep/84.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="12" length="10m"
        name="Bumper Crop">Climbs the short orange corner at the top of Fruitless. Garn Cooper, Sep/84.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="9" length="8m"
        name="Old Man’sMan's Hands">The small handcrack past a bulge about 15m right and up a gully from Fruitless. Start on the lefthand side of the gully just before a huge boulder. Stuart Scott, 1981.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="25" length="10m"
        name="Good O’sO's From Heaven">The face immediately left and around the corner from Surprise Surprise and protected with a bolt. Evan Peacock, Mar/90.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="22" length="12m"
        name="Surprise, Surprise">Harder than it looks. Uphill and left of Sweetie and behind that buttress is a brushed slab protected by two bolts. The climb is directly opposite Old Mans Hands, across the gully. Climb easily to the first bolt, then move up right to a small scoop. After the second bolt move up to another bolt then the top. Evan Peacock, Nov/89.</climb><climb
        extra="*** §" grade="22" length="20m"
        name="Acerb">Move to the lefthand end of the next set of buttresses, right and up of Wolfe Tone, in the middle of the face 2m left of Sweetie. Traverse left to the arete past a BR. Up this to a shallow groove and another BR and the base of a sloping roof. Traverse out right (airy) on underclings to finish up Sweetie. Evan Peacock, Nov/89.</climb><climb
        extra="*** §" grade="26" length="20m"
        name="Onklunk">The direct finish to Sweetie, and great climbing in a super location. Start as for Acerb but go right. Clip the first BR of the lip of the roof, then launch out right (technical) to a stance and the second BR. Trend back left and climb up on sidepulls and a tiny foothold (crux) to jugs, to finish up Sweetie. Evan Peacock, May/90.</climb><climb
        extra="***" grade="12" length="20m"
        name="Sweetie">Climbs the wide crack on the right of the buttress whose upper half is split by a thin crack. At the ledge, hand traverse out left along the thin crack to the vertical crack, then follow this. Just below the top, finish up the rib to the right. Peter Jackson, Mar/91.</climb><problem
        extra="" grade="V?" name="Nappy Rush" new="false" number=""
        stars="">A hard little boulder problem (top-rope recommended) with a poor landing. Start on the overhanging mini-buttress just left of Yoda. Evan Peacock, May/90.
        extra="§" grade="19" length="25m" name="Yoda"
        stars=" *** ">Climbs the obvious thin line up the face just left of Chocolate. Start up this, then move left on the undercling. A thin layaway and mantel lead to the small ledge, then the jug and upper face, finishing up the crack on the left. Peter Jackson, Dec/80.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="21" length="25m"
        name="Yoda Direct Start">A technical little start - unprotected, but not such a bad landing. Follow the slab 2m left of the Yoda and Chocolate until it joins the layaway above the undercling (and runners!). Evan Peacock, May/90.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="25m" name="Chocolate"
        stars=" ** ">About 6m right of Sweetie is an obvious crack with a bulge halfway up and a chimney on its right. Climb the twin-thin cracks, then follow the main crack through the bulge and the ledge. Finish up the side crack. Peter Jackson, Dec/80.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="20" length="16m" name="Brittle Little Mothers"
        stars=" ** ">Takes the line through the roof to the right of Chocolate. Climb the face under the roof, traverse to the lefthand end and reach up for the BR before the mount. Continue to the horizontal, then up the groove to a bomber RP, finishing on the ledge. Evan Peacock, Dec/89.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="25m"
        name="Ulysses">A few metres left of Chocolate is a small recess with a deep chimney to the right. Climb the wide crack in the left corner, to a grassy exit. Continue up the corner on finger jams, then finish up the awkward bottomless chimney. Mendelt Tilema, Mar/71.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="25m" name="Maisma minus"
        stars=" * ">The deep chimney just right of Ulysses. Garn Cooper, 1982.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="23" length="30m" name="Albatross"
        stars=" *** ">The obvious overhanging slanting corner-line to the right of the Ulysses gully. Start 6m right of that line, with a layback around the block. Swing around the corner, then mantle and move up to the ledge, past the spike and up to the bottomless crack, which is followed to the top. Ian Lewis, May/75.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="16" length="20m"
        name="A Ginger Cat Ate Rebecca">Start about 15m up the gully right of the Albatross buttress. Climb up to the horizontal break below the roof, then launch up the face (small RP's). Evan Peacock, Aug/92.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="17" length="25m"
        name="Yeti Flakes">Start two sub-buttress right of Albatross on the same contour. Face climb up the thin flake on the lefthand side of the buttress. Gerry Narkowicz, 1981.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="11" length="8m"
        name="Unfinished Symphony">Start on the front of the next buttress right of Yeti Flakes, a few metres right of a large recess. Climb up the crack to the ledge. Follow any of the variety of lines up (bounded on the right by a small square-cut pillar). Chris Dawson, Sep/74.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="13" length="15m"
        name="Fingers and Thumbs">Start at the thin crack splitting the front of the next small buttress right of Unfinished Symphony. Climb the crack on finger jams past the undercut flake, then mantle for the ledge. Traverse right, then finish up the wide crack. Phil Robinson, Jul/76.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="15m"
        name="Team Pursuit">Starts immediately right of Fingers and Thumbs. Traverse in from the right on thin moves, then up the face for a couple of hard moves that soon relent. Doug Bruce, 1985.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="15m"
        name="Team Pursuit Direct">The direct start. Evan Peacock, Apr/90.</climb><problem
        extra="" grade="V?"
        name="If This Pavement Should Stray Or Rome, Smack It In The Bum, I Love Debra"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">The boulder problem up the detached pinnacle on the righthand side of the gully right of Fingers and Thumbs. Garn Cooper, 1986.</problem><climb
        extra="" grade="13" length="15m"
        name="Hooning the Block">Climbs the arete 10m left of Greenknowe. Start up the face right of the arete, then move onto the arete at the horizontal, finishing straight up. Garn Cooper, 1985.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="15m"
        name="York Street">The line just right of Hooning the Block. Dave Gardener, 1986.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="18" length="25m"
        name="Sheening With the Dovens"
        stars=" ** ">The arete a few metres left of Greenknowe. Poorly protected, improved by using the tree at its base. Garn Cooper, Sep/84.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="12" length="15m" name="Greenknowe"
        stars=" *** ">From Fingers and Thumbs go downhill to a prominent buttress/pillar lower than the rest. A few metres right of its base is a smooth chimney, blocked, and followed by two overhangs. Climb the chimney moving right up the rib to the small corner and top roof. Step left to the nose and around the overhang and the top. Peter Jackson, Nov/69.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="18" length="15m" name="Queasonaire"
        stars=" * ">Climb the face 1m right of Greenknowe, with protection at 4m (and after the crux!), to join the aforementioned at its roof. Evan Peacock, Mar/89.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="21" length="18m" name="Caged"
        stars=" ** ">Start on the Shirvan buttress below the obvious scoop and bulge on the left. Climb to the scoop, step left to the ledge, then hit the bulge directly. Continue up (keeping left of Shirvan) - a fixed pin protects the crux, with pre-placed 20cm sling recommended. Marcel Jackson, Oct/89.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="14" length="16m" name="Shirvan"
        stars=" * ">From the middle of the buttress just right of Greenknowe move up on big holds to the ledge on the righthand edge. Step left for protection behind a suspect flake, then finish directly up the middle. Peter Jackson, 1984.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="10m"
        name="Joyride">At the top of Greenknowe is a leaning gum tree. Start behind this and surmount the small bulge, then continue up the face to the top. Al Adams, Nov/87.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="14" length="10m"
        name="Juvenile Hall">The obvious handcrack 4m right of Joy Ride. Al Adams, 1987.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="18" length="12m" name="Bulging Biceps"
        stars=" ** ">Start 2m across the gully from Rocket Fuel off a chockstone in the gully. Climb up past the bolt then up the arete. Al Adams, Nov/87.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="15m"
        name="Rocket Fuel">About 5m left and around the corner from Snoober is a leftward facing flake. Climb it to the ledge with a large block on it, then follow the crack system above to the top. Al Adams, Jul/84.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="15m"
        name="Blue Turtles">The line left of Snoober. Al Adams, Sep/87.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="17" length="17m" name="Snoober"
        stars=" ** ">Climb the thin cracks up the face just right of Papillion (protection from very small wires which are hard to place).  Peter Jackson, Jan/81.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="11" length="15m" name="Papillion"
        stars=" * ">Further up the hill and right of Greenknowe is an obvious jam crack opposite a flat lunch site. Climb it, through the bulge using cracks on the left. Peter Jackson, May/71.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="8m"
        name="Middled Aged Crisis">The short crack on the small buttress at the top of Papillion. Follow the finger crack, which grows up to offwidth. Dave Drake, 1979.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="20m" name="Canary"
        stars=" ** ">The line 2m right of Papillion. Climb up to the ledge on the right, then finish up the face above. Lyle Closs, Jul/72.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="18" length="12m" name="Bird on a Wire"
        stars=" * ">Start just right of Canary as the buttress turns uphill. Follow the system of thin cracks straight up to the previous climbs overhang. Steve Hamilton, Sep/91.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="0" length="12m"
        name="Sein Zum Tode">Climbs the enticing face right of Bird on a Wire.  The crux is the first moves although the upper section is a little balancy.  The main piece of protection is to be found at the first horizontal.  Marcel Jackson (with TR inspection) and Rob Williams 1994?.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="13" length="12m"
        name="Fist">Originally the jam crack around the back of the Canary column - now somewhat changed by rockfall. Lyle Close, Jul/72.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="10" length="10m"
        name="The Prave">The line up the front of the buttress below Papillion. Garn Cooper, 1987.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="20m"
        name="Heidelberg Direct">Immediately uphill from Fist is a clean corner leading to an offwidth. Climb it, avoiding the worst of the tragedy by traversing from the top of the shaky block around the nose and up on small holds. Continue straight up. Difficult protection. Peter Steane (TR), Feb/84.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="13" length="20m"
        name="Expiry">Start about 20m right of Heidelberg Direct on the lefthand side of the second of the two prominent recesses, and opposite Rudge. Climb up the crack for 4m, then traverse left around the awkward bulge and up to the ledge. Surmount the offwidth and chockstone, then climb the large curving flake at the top - careful of rockfall. Aashal Bush, Jun/75.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="23" length="23m" name="Lumbar Cruncher"
        stars=" *** ">Start in the gully immediately left of Rudge at the steep orange wall. Climb the wall (crux), then continue up the thin crack to the overhang. Move left , pull through onto the arete on the jugs. Don't escape left, but traverse back right to finish up the overhanging crack. Note that two small knife blades were used to protect the crux (placed on abseil). A steep, technical and varied route. Marcel Jackson, Mar/90.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="20m"
        name="Rudge">The obvious line on the righthand side of the recess opposite Expiry, with an overhanging jammed block at its base. Climb from the left onto the block, then ascend the wide crack. Move right for a bit, back left for a bit, and finally even up for a bit. Lyle Closs, Oct/73.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="25m" name="The Danger Hog Shuffle"
        stars=" *** ">Climbs the wall immediately right of Rudge. Bridge the shallow corner and clip the bolt. Move leftwards to gain the crack and up this. Martin Walch, Jun86.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="13" length="8m" name="Wee Ratty"
        stars=" ** ">The layaway on the small buttress a few metres right of Rudge. Otmar Buchman, 1981.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="18m"
        name="Quine">A few metres right and uphill from Wee Ratty is a small flat buttress. Climb up easily to the base of the thin crack on the left arete. Follow this up, finishing to the right of the main face. Marcel Jaskson, Oct/89.
Beyond this, low and broken crags continue down and around the hill for 70m or so. After this, the hillside changes direction to face north (from northeast), with a final 30m of cliff.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="14" length="10m"
        name="Exactuary">Exact details unknown, but somewhere near Big Electric Cat. Garn Cooper, 1986.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="12" length="10m"
        name="Big Electric Cat">The bridging problem to the left of Gilmigrim. Garn Cooper, 1986.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="13" length="10m"
        name="Gilmigrim">About 50m right of Wee Ratty is a higher and more prominent buttress, with a tiny square roof at its top. From the front of the buttress, climb the wide crack to the ledge. Continue up the face to the small ledge, then either pull through the roof or step back right and up. Beware of loose blocks. Garn Cooper, Aug/84.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="14" length="6m"
        name="Triangle Smile">Climb the crack through the bulge at the top of No Hi Jinx. Ray Lassaman.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="21" length="8m"
        name="Small Acoustic Dog">Start on the small buttress just left of No Hi Jinx. Climb straight through the roof, with RP's and friends. Colin Reed, Nov/90.</climb><climb
        extra="§" grade="17" length="12m" name="No Hi Jinx"
        stars=" * ">From the base of the corner immediately left of Wailing Wall, climb up to the small ledge to gain the arete, then up this to the top. Al Adams, Aug/84.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="26" length="12m" name="Wailing Wall"
        stars=" *** ">Climbs the &quot;distinctive, large, blank, orange wall&quot; on the last major buttress. Superb and sustained face climbing passing 3 BR's with hangers, and a #3 friend in the final and easy finishing crack. Marcel Jackson, Jan/92.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="15m"
        name="Argonautica">Start just right of Wailing Wall and climb the obvious crack/chimney. Chris Dawson, Oct/74.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="6" length="7m" name="Velveteen">Climbs the short arete and wall of perfect dolerite about 4m right of Argonautica.  A knife blade was placed at the horizontal.  Rob Williams and Marcel Jackson, 1994.</climb></guide>