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Guide
<guide version="2">
  <header access="Cleverly positioned so you can fit in at least two or three nightmare epics after work. The Quarry is on Waterworks RoadRd (surprise) between Lynton Ave and Romilly StreetSt in DynyrneDynnyrne. Travel south along Davey StreetSt (B64) headingusing forthe Ferntree (right hand lane, as you would to drive to Fern Tree and kunanyi/Mt Wellington),. overContinue thestraight lightsahead atthrough the endlights ofat the Southern Outlet, and turn L intersection to stay on Davey St until taking a left turn at the first roundabout on Huon Road down Lynton AvenueAve. Turn Rright at the bottom of the steep hill intoonto Waterworks Road,Rd theand clifffollow isfor aboutalmost a kmkilometre further to locate the crag on the LHleft hand side. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;After some debate as to whether they would close the cliff to climbersclimbing due to safety issues, the Hobart City Council in their wisdom decided instead to clear the old quarry floor for parkinga &quot;pump&quot; bike track, erect a fence along the cliff line, and even install a child-proof gate - plus of course the usual warning notices etc. We are eternally in their debt!" acknowledgement="by John Domeney, originally published in Craglets. Updated by Tony McKenny, Dec 2007" guide.action="submit" guide.id="0" guide.page="0" guide.type="header" history="" intro="WARNING. A massive rock fall has occurred above and over Justin&apos;s Crack and Spiderman&apos;s Arsehole (18/11/2010)in 2010. The cliff thereabove isthese nowtwo extremelyroutes dangerousis andstill  unstable and more rock fallsfall over these climbs areis likelynot unlikely.        &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;A rock is a rock they say, but if you think bolted routes take the adventure out of climbing then it’s time you paid a visit to the birthplace of the world’s next fad: choss climbing! Take one tottering pile of exfoliating rubble, add wide-eyed climbers with psychotic hammer drills and shares in Ramset. The result: a multitude of good routes carefully engineered so that every ascent is a first ascent i.e. all the holds break all the time. The procedure for doing new routes is as follows. Put on a blindfold, rap down, drilling at random. Carry a sack of rocks to place on holds so that every ascentionist gets a “unique” experience and every belayer gets a discount lobotomy. Remember, leading is the way to go here as the only other access to the chains is by jumping off the top and grabbing them on the way past. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;If you haven&apos;t got the message, the rock here is loose,. andSmall small and large chunksblocks canregularly andpart docompany comewith offthe cliff - be warned. Oh, and take the stars with a grain of salt too (or perhaps somea crumblyresidue of dolerite flakesgrit instead?)." name="Waterworks Quarry" rock="Slabby, chossy, quarried dolerite" sun="Afternoon sun" walk="30 seconds" id="1" camping="" autonumber="true"/>
  <gps id="38">
    <point pid="0" latitude="-42.90333" longitude="147.31081" easting="525373" northing="5249873" zone="55G" code="" description="Waterworks Quarry"/>
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      <climb>4</climb>
      <climb>5</climb>
      <climb>6</climb>
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  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="7m" name="Justin’s Crack" number="1." stars="*" id="3" fa=" Justin Kennedy.">Warning - extremely dangerous loose rock above. Description included here for historical record only. Trad climbing at the Waterworks, what next! The thin line to the S-shaped crack 20m Lleft of Twilight Groping. Take some small cams for the crack. Walk off at far Lleft of cliff.</climb>
  <climb extra="2Þ" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="2" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="7m" name="Spiderman’s Arsehole" number="2." stars="" id="4" fa="Jon Tiller, Nov 1991.">Warning - extremely dangerous loose rock above. Description included here for historical record only. Start just Rright of Justin’s Crack. Follow thin face on tweaky holds, clipping the carrot bolt near Justin’s Crack. The crux starts at the second bolt (again, no bracket).</climb>
  <climb extra="4Þ" grade="17" length="10m" name="Don&apos;t Buy a Cheap Ryobi" number="3." stars="" id="5" fa="A. Lewis and T. Helleman, June, 2009.">Start just left of Twilight Groping atbehind athe tree. Climb the face past 4 U's to a chain. Stays left of Twilight Groping the whole way, and avoids the easier (and chossier) left arête.</climb>
  <climb extra="4Þ" grade="17" length="10m" name="Twilight Groping" number="4." stars="" id="6" fa="Richard Marshall, May 1989.">4>Four U bolts up the slab to the Lleft of Thethe Eye-Bolt Route with the crux atjust below the cruxfourth bolt. Use Reaching left and clipping the final bolt on DBACR can minimise the final runout up to the lower-off onshared with DBACR.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" guide.action="submit" guide.id="3" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Eye Bolt Route" number="5." stars="*" id="7" fa="">Classic face climbing. 5 glue-ins plus a lower-off. Probably the best beginner's lead in Hobart.</climb>
  <climb extra="4Þ" grade="15" length="11m" name="Weetbix" number="6." stars="*" id="8" fa="E. Jones, T. Gilbert and G. Abell, 14 Nov 2009.">2-3m >Fun at the grade. start 2m right of the Eye Bolt Route. Up the dark slabby rock past 4 U-bolts. LowerFinishes off has now been moved L, the route finishes straight up and is quite fun at the grade.straight up.</climb>
  <climb id="41" stars="" extra="4Þ  " number="7." name="Cheerios" length="11m" grade="17" fa="Gabriel Kinzler, Jun 2020">Cheeky alternative start to Weetbix from the far right corner. Crimpy slab problem instead of the easy ladder of Weetbix.</climb>
  <climb extra="3Þ" grade="12" guide.action="submit" guide.id="4" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="8m" name="Five Four" number="8." stars="" id="10" fa=" Jon Tiller, Aug 1993.">Start 10m L of Bastard Cancer. Up slab into corner past 3 bolts to lower-off. Good for beginners!</climb>
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  </image>   <climb extra="3Þ" grade="12" guide.action="submit" guide.id="4" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="8m" name="Five Four" number="7." stars="" id="10" fa=" Jon Tiller, Aug 1993.">Start 10m L of Bastard Cancer. Up slab into corner past 3 bolts to lower-off. Good for beginners!</climb>
   <climb>36</climb>
      <climb>22</climb>
      <climb>43</climb>
      <climb>23</climb>
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  <climb extra="4Þ" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="5" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m" name="Death Unto Racists" number="89." stars="" id="11" fa="Jon Tiller, Aug 1993.">Start 2m L of Bastard Cancer. Up left side of face. 4 bolts plus lower off.</climb>
  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="19" length="15m" name="Bastard Cancer" number="910." stars="*" id="12" fa="Richard Marshall, Feb 1987.">The arête left of the big slab. Starts on face, stay out of corner on R as very loose. 5 bolts led up right side of face to shared lower off.</climb>
  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="7" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Phantom Stone Thrower" number="1011." stars="*" id="13" fa="Jon Tiller, Sep 1993.">Start 3m R of Bastard Cancer. Tricky slab climbing, moving L into the groove at the very top. 5 BRs plus lower off.</climb>
  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="1920" length="15m" name="Ruddiocracy" number="1112." stars="*" id="14" fa="Guy Abell &amp; Emlyn Jones, Mar 2010">Start immediately R of PST, climbing just to the L of the bolts. Exciting climbing with some thin moves. The crux clip is now a little cruxier, having lost a handy jug, adding a grade or two (from 19). May still shed a little rock so belayer beware!. 5 U-bolts plus lower off.</climb>
  <climb extra="7Þ" grade="24" guide.action="submit" guide.id="8" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Les Grands Ensembles" number="1213." stars="**" id="15" fa="Richard Cockerill, May 2000.">Starts 5m to the R of Phantom Stone Thrower (under L end of roof) and follows a line of bolts up to the chain at the top of TdF (the last bolt is not visible from the ground). Thin slabbing.</climb>
  <climb extra="7Þ" grade="2625" guide.action="submit" guide.id="9" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Tour de France" number="1314." stars="*" id="16" fa="Hamish Jackson, Sep 1994.">The line of bolts up the big slab 2m R of LGE. A well known test piece, originally bolted by Justin Kennedy and Richard Marshall circa 1987, butand noteventually climbed free until at grade 26 in 1994. MoreThe good climb is substantially easier these days since the formation of new 'large' holds in both crux sections due to exfoliation. Good thin slabbing, butalthough it's a bit contrived in spots. Difficult last clip, and some of the hangerupper isbolts missingare off the first bolt.looking a bit rusty.</climb>
  <climb id="39" stars="**" extra="9Þ" number="15." name="Driller Direct" length="20m" grade="22" fa="Tim Meech, Dec 2017.">Starting at Tour de France. Nice technical/bouldery moves trending right of the block face. Follow u-bolts to join Serial Driller. Extra bolt has been added for 'high' traverse to chains, no need to clip second last U. And if confident, climbs well to clip the second bolt as your 1st.</climb>
  <climb extra="9Þ" grade="2021" guide.action="submit" guide.id="11" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Serial Driller" number="1416." stars="***" id="17" fa="John Domeney, Dec 1993.">Magic climbing. Follow the steel to the R of Tour. Start at the layback crack (blue spray paint arrow) and trend L at the top to the chain in the middle of the face. WARNING: a very large chunk of rock has come off (May 2017) at the start of the moves left to the chains, taking several holds with it (and the climber on it - luckily, no injury sustained), bringing the grade up to 21. Note, extra bolt added for high traverse to chains (Dec 2017), can still be climbed 'low or high' to chains.</climb>
  <climb extra="9Þ" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="12" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Open Festering Wounds" number="1517." stars="**" id="18" fa="John Domeney, Jan 1994.">Start as for Serial Driller. Move R at the third bolt and up past six more to a chain.</climb>
  <climb id="32" name="Totally Awesome" length="21m" grade="21" fa="Dave Humphries Feb 2012" extra="8Þ" stars="" number="1618.">Name says it all... Start a metre to the right of OFW. Climb past the bolts until you're at the anchors (you clip a couple of OFW bolts). All the obvious loose stuff has been removed, but I guess it will 'shed' for a little while.</climb>
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  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="23" guide.action="submit" guide.id="13" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Sequels of the Light" number="1719." stars="*" id="20" fa="Evan Peacock, Dec 1992.">At the R end of the crag is a short buttress. Start at the corner at the L end of this. Up the corner then continue with some tricky moves past the overlap. Lower-off is over on the back (best to abseil off this to clean the route, as the top is quite loose).</climb>
  <climb id="36" stars="" extra="5Þ" number="1820." name="Sequels of Nongs" length="12" grade="22" fa="">Start up Sequels and move R at the overlap into Pathetic Nongs, finishing as for that route.</climb>
  <climb extra="4Þ" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="14" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Pathetic Nongs Steal Hangers, Yes I’m Talking to You Arsehole" number="1921." stars="**" id="22" fa="A. Rosa, Oct 1992.">Very nice, balancey, climbing up the groove just R of SOTL.</climb>
  <text id="33">The rock to the R of PNSH etc is in the process of "stablisation" - most of the loose rock has been removed but CAUTION if you are round that area! There is probably still some more to come down....</text>
  <climb id="43" stars="" extra="" number="22." name="COVID" length="10m" grade="20" 19" fa="Alan Jackson &amp; Gabriel Kinzler, Jun 2020">A route squeezed in between PNSH and the rubbish rock to the right (use the arete to the right but don't venture further right). Kick right from the pedestal near the top to finish. Might not really be 19 but with a heavy fever and respiratory difficulty it just might be.</climb>
  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="14" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Oh Joyous Lobotomy" number="2023." stars="*" id="23" fa="J. Domeney, Sept 1993.">"A route in the classic tradition of Waterworks Quarry. A route that will warm the hearts and minds of repeat ascentionists, chill them to the bone and make them sick to their stomachs. This route epitomises its creators hedonistic and sociopathic style and is a textbook case of man against rock, rock against gravity and gravity against the combined forces of Ramset and Ryobi. The first bolt, with its stark placement and uncompromising height off the deck, deftly describes mans inhumanity to man. It is also a vivid phallic symbol graphically outlining the first ascentionists subconscious insecurity about the size of his bit. The moves up the wall above form an abstract modern dance that brings to mind images of East European conflict especially the side-pull which is the key to reaching the third bolt and a new round of Geneva peace talks. A man will always return to old stomping grounds and search for his roots; pulling up on the crucial razor sharp undercut one can almost feel them. The heady aroma of vast African plains drifts tantalisingly through ones nostrils and momentarily the mists of time part, you run, then walk, then crawl back down the evolutionary chain until an apelike heave sends you scurrying up and over the crux. You pause to appreciate the moment and the true symbolism of the metaphor, but a glance at the vacant expanse looming high to the left tells you the best is still to come,". John Domeney, Sep 1993. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Many have puzzled over this eclectic description, but most have scratched their heads and abandoned their search for the elusive climb, believing it to be a complete figment of John's fertile imagination. The best bet is youto traverseclimb LTrad afterWankers to the 3rd overlap, then via a long reach clip the bolt onover TWMD, the lip. Traverse left a metre and surmountstem up to the overlap viathen anotherlayback (hidden)the boltright overhand arête of the liprooflet above to reach the lower-off. Enjoy! NB The final moves overabove the overlap may have altered asconsiderably adue commonlyto usedchanges footholdto fellthe offrock duringthat theoccurred recentin stabilisationmid of2017. theNow rockslightly toharder theas La result. MaybeCareful aof tadloose harder nowholds towards the end.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="16" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Trad Wankers Must Die" number="2124." stars="**" id="24" fa="J.Domeney, S.Stojanovski, Oct 1992.">Looks like a pile of choss, particularly in the region near the overlap. InClimb fact,the itloose ispedestal quiteto safe.a Climbledge, then up the loosewall pedestalpast andthree throughbolts shatteredto rockthe tooverlap. aMove moveright Rthen atup the thirdwall bolt,past thenthe onfifth to more solid ground bolt, to the lower-off.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="23" guide.action="submit" guide.id="17" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Urban Renewal" number="2225." stars="**" id="25" fa="Evan Peacock, Dec 1992.">Harder than it looks and prone to spitting climbers off like flies. Start immediately to right of Trad Wankers. Follow the Rcorner ofand TWMD.thin Straight face (crux) then up the cornerflake diagonallyfinishing L,at finishinga uplower Trad Wankers.off. At some stage in 2019 the first bolt was found broken off. The initial moves are now unprotected.</climb>
  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="18" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Drilling in the Name of" number="2326." stars="*" id="26" fa="John Domeney, Dec 1993.">Start up Urban Renewal to the thirdsecond BR, move R past 2 more to finish at the Jesus chain.</climb>
  <climb id="40" stars="" extra="4Þ" number="27." name="Interloper" length="10m" grade="18" fa="Gabriel Kinzler &amp; Alan Jackson, Oct 2019">Somewhat contrived, yet opens up new possibilities. Start midway between Urban Renewal and Jesus Built my Hammer Drill. Lower section is a crimpfest, the middle section a side-pulling stepladder and upper section a cruxy blank face. Stay centred on the bolt line and do not use holds to your left (Urban Renewal) or right (Jesus). Finish at the same anchor as Resurrection and Drilling in the Name Of. In loving memory of Majo.</climb>
  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="19" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Resurrection" number="2428." stars="*" id="27" fa="OCCG (Old Codgers Climbing Group) 2005.">Takes a line between DITNO and Jesus, covering >Covers the line of another route that fell down... Climb Starts up Jesus Built my Hammer Drill to the 3rdthird bolt, ofbefore Jesustrending andleft trend L past 2two more bolts to finish as for DITNO.</climb>
  <climb extra="4Þ" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="19" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Jesus Built My Hammer Drill" number="2529." stars="**" id="28" fa="John Domeney, Oct 1992.">The cliff classic - a chameleon of a route, changing all the time. The grade is anything from 14 to 20, presently about 17-18. At the RH end of the climbable rock are 4 bolts plus a lower off, with actually some decent moves in between.</climb>
  <text id="30"/>
  <climb id="31" name=" The Process of Elimination         " length="10m" grade="20" extra="4Þ" fa="D. Gray, Jan 2012." stars="" number="2630.">Takes the old top rope line between JBMHD and BLC, using the existing bolts. A little discipline is needed to eschew the holds on the other two climbs but it gives an independent and surprisingly solid climb. Finish at the BLC rap chains.</climb>
  <climb id="29" name="The Blind Leading The Crippled " length="10m" grade="16" fa="Duncan Meerding, Paul Pritchard, Nov 2010." extra="4Þ" stars="" number="2731.">The soaring line R of Jesus Built My Hammer Drill. 4 bolts to chain.</climb>
</guide>