<?xml<guide version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?2">
<guide><header <header access="Cleverly positioned so you can fit in at least two or three nightmare epics after work. The Quarry is on Waterworks RoadRd (surprise) between Lynton Ave and Romilly StreetSt in DynyrneDynnyrne. Travel south along Davey StreetSt (B64) headingusing forthe Ferntree (right hand lane, as you would to drive to Fern Tree and kunanyi/Mt Wellington),. overContinue thestraight lightsahead atthrough the endlights ofat the Southern Outlet, and turn L intersection to stay on Davey St until taking a left turn at the first roundabout on Huon Road down Lynton AvenueAve. Turn Rright at the bottom of the steep hill intoonto Waterworks Road,Rd theand clifffollow isfor aboutalmost a kmkilometre furtherto onlocate the crag on the LHleft hand side. <br/><br/>After some debate as to whether they would close the cliff to climbersclimbing due to safety issues, the Hobart City Council in their wisdom decided instead to clear the old quarry floor for parkinga "pump" bike track, erect a fence along the cliff line, and even install a child-proof gate - plus of course the usual warning notices etc. We are eternally in their debt!" acknowledgement="by John Domeney, originally published in Craglets. Updated by Tony McKenny, Dec 2007" guide.action="submit" guide.id="0" guide.page="0" guide.type="header" history="" intro="WARNING. A massive rock fall occurred in intro="2010 at the left hand end of the cliff above and over Justin's Crack and Spiderman's Arsehole. The cliff above these two routes is still unstable and more rock fall over these climbs is not unlikely. The Council have erected a barrier fence preventing access to the area. <br/><br/>A rock is a rock they say, but if you think bolted routes take the adventure out of climbing then it’s time you paid a visit to the birthplace of the world’s next fad: choss climbing! Take one tottering pile of exfoliating rubble, add wide-eyed climbers with psychotic hammer drills and shares in Ramset. The result: a multitude of good routes carefully engineered so that every ascent is a first ascent i.e. all the holds break all the time. The procedure for doing new routes is as follows. Put on a blindfold, rap down, drilling at random. Carry a sack of rocks to place on holds so that every ascentionistascensionist gets a “unique” experience and every belayer gets a discount lobotomy. Remember, leading is the way to go here as the only other access to the chains is by jumping off the top and grabbing them on the way past. <br/>If><br/>If you haven''t got the message, the rock here is loose,. andSmall small and large chunksblocks canregularly andpart docompany comewith offthe cliff - be warned. Oh, and take the stars with a grain of salt too (or perhaps somea crumblyresidue of dolerite flakesgrit instead?)." name="Waterworks Quarry" rock="Slabby, chossy, quarried dolerite" sun="Afternoon sun" namewalk="Waterworks30 Quarryseconds" newid="false1" camping="" autonumber="true"/>
<gps id="38">
rock <point pid="Slabby, chossy, quarried dolerite" sun="Afternoon sun"
walk="30 seconds"/><image new="false" noPrint="false"
src="Waterworks1.jpg" width="700"/><climb extra="" grade="17"
length="7m" name="Justin’s Crack" new="false" number="1."
0" latitude="-42.90333" longitude="147.31081" easting="525373" northing="5249873" zone="55G" code="" description="Waterworks Quarry"/>
</gps>
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value="Start just right of Justin’s Crack . Follow a small shallow crack on tweaky holds, clipping the carrot bolt on Justin’s Crack. The crux starts at the second bolt (again, no bracket). <legend>
<climb>3</climb>
<climb>4</climb>
<climb>5</climb>
<climb>6</climb>
<climb>7</climb>
<climb>8</climb>
<climb>41</climb>
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<text id="44" class="text">The Council has erected a barrier fence preventing access to the two climbs left of Don't Buy a Cheap Ryobi (descriptions included here for the historical record).</text>
<climb extra="" grade="17" length="7m" name="Justin’s Crack" number="1." stars="*" id="3" fa=" Justin Kennedy.">Warning - extremely loose rock above. Trad climbing at the Waterworks, what next! The thin line to the S-shaped crack 20m left of Twilight Groping. Take some small cams for the crack. Walk off at far left of cliff.</climb>
<climb extra="2Þ" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="2" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="7m" name="Spiderman’s Arsehole" number="2." stars="" id="4" fa="Jon Tiller, Nov 1991.">Start >Warning - extremely loose rock above. Start just Rright of Justin’s Crack. Follow thin face on tweaky holds, clipping the carrot bolt near Justin’s Crack. The crux starts at the second bolt (again, no bracket). Jon Tiller, Nov 1991.</climb><climbclimb>
<climb extra="3Þ4Þ" grade="17" length="10m" name="Don&apos;t Buy a Cheap Ryobi" newnumber="false3." numberstars="" id="5" fa="A. Lewis and T. Helleman, stars=""June, 2009.">Start just left of Twilight Groping atbehind athe tree, just right of the fence. Climb the face past 34 U's to a chain. Stays left of Twilight Groping the whole way, and avoids the easier (and chossier) left arête. A. Lewis and T. Helleman. June, 2009.</climb><climbclimb>
<climb extra="3Þ4Þ" grade="17" length="10m" name="Twilight Groping" new="false" number=""
stars="">3number="4." stars="" id="6" fa="Richard Marshall, May 1989.">Four U bolts up the slab to the Lleft of Thethe Eye-Bolt Route with the crux atjust below the cruxfourth bolt. UseReaching lower-off left and clipping the final bolt on DBACR. can Richardminimise Marshall,the May 1989.</climb><climb
extra="3Þfinal runout up to the lower-off shared with DBACR.</climb>
<climb extra="5Þ" grade="12" guide.action="submit" guide.id="3" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Eye Bolt Route" new="false" number="35." stars="*" value="Classicid="7" fa="">Classic face climbing. The5 routeglue-ins isplus found just left of the nightmare descent from the top of Bastard Cancer. 3 BRs plus lower off (ignore the old bolts to L and R). Richard Marshall, May 1989.">Classic face climbing. 3 U-bolts plus a lower-off. Probably the best beginner's lead in Hobart.</climb><image
new="false" noPrint="false" src="Waterworks2.jpg"
width="700"/><climb a lower-off. Probably the best beginner's lead in Hobart.</climb>
<climb extra="4Þ" grade="15" length="11m" name="Weetbix" number="6." stars="*" id="8" fa="E. Jones, T. Gilbert and G. Abell, 14 Nov 2009.">Fun at the grade. start 2m right of the Eye Bolt Route. Up the dark slabby rock past 4 U-bolts. Finishes straight up.</climb>
<climb id="41" stars="" extra="4Þ " number="7." name="Cheerios" length="11m" grade="17" fa="Gabriel Kinzler, Jun 2020">Cheeky alternative start to Weetbix from the far right corner. Crimpy slab problem instead of the easy ladder of Weetbix.</climb>
<climb extra="3Þ" grade="12" guide.action="submit" guide.id="4" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="8m" name="Five Four" number="8." stars="" id="10" fa=" Jon name="Five Four" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Start 10m left of Bastard Cancer. One old bolt, no bracket, and a single bolt lower off....hmmmm. Jon Tiller, Aug 1993.">Start 10m L of Bastard Cancer. Up slab into corner past 3 bolts to lower-off. Good for beginners! Jon Tiller, Aug 1993.</climb><climbTiller, Aug 1993.">Start 10m L of Bastard Cancer. Up slab into corner past 3 bolts to lower-off. Good for beginners!</climb>
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<path id="6672" valuepoints="Start 2m left of Bastard Cancer. 3 carrots (take brackets) plus lower off. Jon Tiller, Aug 1993.">Start 2m L of Bastard Cancer. Up left side of face. 4 bolts plus lower off. Jon Tiller, Aug 1993.</climb><climb" d=""/>
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<path id="15m68292" namepoints="Bastard" Cancerd=""/>
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<path id="96608" valuepoints="The arete left of the big slab. Most ascents start up the corner to the immediate right (17). 2 carrot bolts (no brackets) plus small wires higher up on the easier ground. Richard Marshall, Feb 1987.">The arête left of the big slab. Most ascents start up the corner to the immediate right. 4 bolts led up right side of face to shared lower off. Richard Marshall, Feb 1987.</climb><climb109.0,406.0, 141.0,353.0, 153.0,311.0, 165.0,261.0, 191.0,225.0,lower" d="M109.0,406.0C121.8,384.8 133.7,368.9 141.0,353.0C148.3,337.1 148.6,327.9 153.0,311.0C157.4,294.1 157.8,277.2 165.0,261.0C172.2,244.8 180.6,239.4 191.0,225.0" linkedTo="11"/>
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<path id="81932" namepoints="Phantom Stone Thrower" new="false" number="6." stars="*"" d=""/>
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<path id="45490" valuepoints="Start 3m right of Bastard Cancer. Tricky slab climbing, moving L into the groove at the very top. 5 BRs plus lower off.Jon Tiller, Sep 1993.">Start 3m R of Bastard Cancer. Tricky slab climbing, moving L into the groove at the very top. 5 BRs plus lower off. Jon Tiller, Sep 1993.</climb><climb
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<legend>
<climb>11</climb>
<climb>12</climb>
<climb>13</climb>
<climb>14</climb>
<climb>15</climb>
<climb>16</climb>
<climb>39</climb>
<climb>17</climb>
<climb>18</climb>
<climb>32</climb>
<climb>20</climb>
<climb>36</climb>
<climb>22</climb>
<climb>43</climb>
<climb>23</climb>
<climb>24</climb>
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<climb extra="4Þ" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="85" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m15m" name="Death Unto Racists" number="9." stars="" id="11" fa="Jon name="Les Grands Ensembles" new="falseTiller, Aug 1993.">Start 2m L of Bastard Cancer. Up left side of face. 4 bolts plus lower off.</climb>
<climb extra="5Þ" grade="19" length="15m" name="Bastard Cancer" number="710." stars="**" id="12" fa="Richard Marshall, Feb 1987.">The arête left value="of the big slab. Starts 5mon toface, the R of stay out of corner on R as very loose. 5 bolts led up right side of face to shared lower off.</climb>
<climb extra="5Þ" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="7" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Phantom Stone Thrower" number="11." stars="*" id="13" fa="Jon Tiller, and follows a lineSep 1993.">Start 3m R of 7Bastard BRRsCancer. upTricky to slab climbing, moving L into the chaingroove at the very top. of TdF (the last bolt is not visible from the ground). 5 BRs plus lower off.</climb>
<climb extra="5Þ" grade="20" length="15m" name="Ruddiocracy" number="12." stars="*" id="14" fa="Guy Abell & Emlyn Jones, Mar 2010">Start immediately R of PST, climbing just to the L of the bolts. Exciting climbing with some thin moves. The crux clip is now a little cruxier, having lost a handy jug, adding a grade or two (from 19). May still shed a little rock so belayer beware!</climb>
<climb extra="7Þ" grade="24" guide.action="submit" guide.id="8" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Les Grands Ensembles" number="13." stars="**" id="15" fa="Richard Cockerill, May 2000.">Starts 5m to the R of Phantom Stone Thrower (under L end of roof) and follows a line of bolts up to the chain at the top of TdF (the last bolt is not visible from the ground). Thin slabbing. Richard Cockerill, May 2000.</climb><climbclimb>
<climb extra="7Þ" grade="2625" guide.action="submit" guide.id="9" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Tour de France" new="false" number="814." stars="*" id="16" fa="Hamish Jackson, value="TheSep 1994.">The line of bolts (7) up the big slab 2m R of LGSLGE. A well known test piece, originally bolted by Justin Kennedy and Richard Marshall circa 1987, butand noteventually climbed free until 1994! at grade 26 in 1994. The climb is substantially easier these days since the formation of new 'large' holds in both crux sections due to exfoliation. Good thin slabbing although it's a bit contrived in spots. Difficult last clip, hangerand missingsome offof the first bolt.. Hamish Jackson, Sep 1994.">The line of bolts up the big slab 2m R of LGE. A well known test piece, originally bolted by Justin Kennedy and Richard Marshall circa 1987 but not climbed free until 1994! More good thin slabbing, but it's a bit contrived in spots. Difficult last clip, and the hanger is missing off the first bolt. Hamish Jackson, Sep 1994.</climb><climb
upper bolts are looking a bit rusty.</climb>
<climb id="39" stars="**" extra="9Þ" number="15." name="Driller Direct" length="20m" grade="22" fa="Tim Meech, Dec 2017.">Starting at Tour de France. Nice technical/bouldery moves trending right of the block face. Follow u-bolts to join Serial Driller. Extra bolt has been added for 'high' traverse to chains, no need to clip second last U. And if confident, climbs well to clip the second bolt as your 1st.</climb>
<climb extra="9Þ" grade="2021" guide.action="submit" guide.id="11" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Serial Driller" new="false" number="916." stars="***" id="17" fa="John Domeney, value="MagicDec 1993.">Magic climbing. Follow the steel to the rightR of Tour. Start at the layback crack (blue spray paint arrow) and trend L at the top to the chain in the middle of the face. 9WARNING: BRs.a Johnvery Domeney,large Dec 1993.">Magic climbing. Follow the steel to the R of Tour. Start at the layback crack (blue spray paint arrow) and trend L at the top to the chain in the middle of the face. John Domeney, Dec 1993.</climb><climb
chunk of rock has come off (May 2017) at the start of the moves left to the chains, taking several holds with it (and the climber on it - luckily, no injury sustained), bringing the grade up to 21. Note, extra bolt added for high traverse to chains (Dec 2017), can still be climbed 'low or high' to chains.</climb>
<climb extra="9Þ" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="12" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Open Festering Wounds" new="false" number="1017." stars="**" id="18" fa="John Domeney, value="StartJan 1994.">Start as for Serial Driller. Move rightR at the third bolt and up past six more to a chain.</climb>
John Domeney, Jan 1994.">Start as for Serial Driller. Move R at the third bolt and up past six more to a chain. John Domeney, Jan 1994.</climb><image
new="false" noPrint="false" src="Waterworks3.jpg"
width="700"/><climb extra="4Þ" grade="23" guide.action="submit"<climb id="32" name="Totally Awesome" length="21m" grade="21" fa="Dave Humphries Feb 2012" extra="8Þ" stars="" number="18.">Name says it all... Start a metre to the right of OFW. Climb past the bolts until you're at the anchors (you clip a couple of OFW bolts). All the obvious loose stuff has been removed, but I guess it will 'shed' for a little while.</climb>
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value<path id="The route finishes at a she-oak with a difficult slab move or two.. 4 BRs plus lower off.Evan Peacock, Dec 1992.">At the R end of the crag is a short buttress. Start at the corner at the L end of this. Up the corner then continue with some tricky moves past the overlap. Lower-off is over on the back (best to abseil off this to clean the route, as the top is quite loose). Evan Peacock, Dec 1992.</climb><text9203" points="" d=""/>
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you're bored (well, you're at Waterworks, right?) it is possible to do the following linkup at 22/23:
Start up Sequels and move R at the overlap into Pathetic Nongs, finishing as for that route.</text><climb<path id="66787" points="" d=""/>
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<path id="1338" valuepoints="4 bolts up the groove 4m left of TWMD. A.Rosa, Oct 1992.">Very nice, balancey, climbing up the groove just R of SOTL. The last bolt often sees epic clipping attempts from frustrated leaders (use a small biner). A. Rosa, Oct 1992.</climb><climb
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value=""A route in the classic tradition of Waterworks Quarry. A route that will warm the hearts and minds of repeat ascentionists, chill them to the bone and make them sick to their stomachs. <br/>This route epitomises its creators hedonistic and sociopathic style and is a textbook case of man against rock, rock against gravity and gravity against the combined forces of Ramset and Ryobi. <br/>The first bolt, with its stark placement and uncompromising height off the deck, deftly describes mans inhumanity to man. It is also a vivid phallic symbol graphically outlining the first ascentionists subconscious insecurity about the size of his bit. The moves up the wall above form an abstract modern dance that brings to mind images of East European conflict especially the side-pull which is the key to reaching the third bolt and a new round of Geneva peace talks. A man will always return to old stomping grounds and search for his roots; pulling up on the crucial razor sharp undercut one can almost feel them. The heady aroma of vast African plains drifts tantalizingly through ones nostrils and momentarily the mists of time part, you run, then walk, then crawl back down the evolutionary chain until an apelike heave sends you scurrying up and over the crux. You pause to appreciate the moment and the true symbolism of the metaphor, but a glance at the vacant expanse looming high to the left tells you the best is still to come". John Domeney, Sep 1993. Many have puzzled over this eclectic description, but most have scratched their heads and abandoned their search for the elusive climb, believing it to be a complete figment of John's fertile imagination. The best bet is you traverse L after the 3rd bolt on TWMD, and surmount the overlap via another (hidden) bolt over the lip to the lower-off. Enjoy!" <legend>
<climb>20</climb>
<climb>36</climb>
<climb>22</climb>
<climb>43</climb>
<climb>23</climb>
<climb>24</climb>
<climb>25</climb>
<climb>26</climb>
<climb>40</climb>
<climb>27</climb>
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<climb extra="5Þ" grade="23" guide.action="submit" guide.id="13" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Sequels of the Light" number="19." stars="*" id="20" fa="Evan Peacock, Dec 1992.">At the R end of the crag is a short buttress. Start at the corner at the L end of this. Up the corner then continue with some tricky moves past the overlap. Lower-off is over on the back (best to abseil off this to clean the route, as the top is quite loose).</climb>
<climb id="36" stars="" extra="5Þ" number="20." name="Sequels of Nongs" length="12" grade="22" fa="">Start up Sequels and move R at the overlap into Pathetic Nongs, finishing as for that route.</climb>
<climb extra="4Þ" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="14" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Pathetic Nongs Steal Hangers, Yes I’m Talking to You Arsehole" number="21." stars="**" id="22" fa="A. Rosa, Oct 1992.">Very nice, balancey, climbing up the groove just R of SOTL.</climb>
<text id="33">The rock to the R of PNSH etc is in the process of "stablisation" - most of the loose rock has been removed but CAUTION if you are round that area! There is probably still some more to come down....</text>
<climb id="43" stars="" extra="5Þ" number="22." name="COVID" length="10m" grade="19" fa="Alan Jackson & Gabriel Kinzler, Jun 2020">A route squeezed in between PNSH and the rubbish rock to the right (use the arete to the right but don't venture further right). Kick right from the pedestal near the top to finish. Might not really be 19 but with a heavy fever and respiratory difficulty it just might be.</climb>
<climb extra="5Þ" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="14" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Oh Joyous Lobotomy" number="23." stars="*" id="23" fa="J. Domeney, Sept 1993.">"A route in the classic tradition of Waterworks Quarry. A route that will warm the hearts and minds of repeat ascentionists, chill them to the bone and make them sick to their stomachs. This route epitomises its creators hedonistic and sociopathic style and is a textbook case of man against rock, rock against gravity and gravity against the combined forces of Ramset and Ryobi.
The first bolt, with its stark placement and uncompromising height off the deck, deftly describes mans inhumanity to man. It is also a vivid phallic symbol graphically outlining the first ascentionists subconscious insecurity about the size of his bit. The moves up the wall above form an abstract modern dance that brings to mind images of East European conflict especially the side-pull which is the key to reaching the third bolt and a new round of Geneva peace talks. A man will always return to old stomping grounds and search for his roots; pulling up on the crucial razor sharp undercut one can almost feel them. The heady aroma of vast African plains drifts tantalisingly through ones nostrils and momentarily the mists of time part, you run, then walk, then crawl back down the evolutionary chain until an apelike heave sends you scurrying up and over the crux. You pause to appreciate the moment and the true symbolism of the metaphor, but a glance at the vacant expanse looming high to the left tells you the best is still to come,". John Domeney, Sep 1993.
<br/><br/>Many have puzzled over this eclectic description, but most have scratched their heads and abandoned their search for the elusive climb, believing it to be a complete figment of John's fertile imagination. The best bet is youto traverseclimb LTrad afterWankers to the 3rd overlap, then via a long reach clip the bolt onover TWMD, the lip. Traverse left a metre and surmountstem up to the overlap viathen anotherlayback (hidden)the boltright overhand arête of the liprooflet above to reach the lower-off. Enjoy!</climb><climb The final moves above the overlap have altered considerably due to changes to the rock that occurred in mid 2017. Now slightly harder as a result. Careful of loose holds towards the end.</climb>
<climb extra="4Þ5Þ" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="16" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Trad Wankers Must Die" new="false" number="1424." stars="**" value="Looks like a pile of choss particulary in the region near the overlap. In fact it is quite safe. Climb up the loose pedestal and through shattered rock to a move R at the third bolt on to more solid ground. . 4 BRs plus lower off. id="24" fa="J.Domeney, S.Stojanovski, Oct 1992.">Looks like a pile of choss, particularly in the region near the overlap. InClimb fact,the itloose ispedestal quiteto safe.a Climbledge, then up the loosewall pedestalpast andthree throughbolts shatteredto rockthe tooverlap. aMove moveright Rthen atup the thirdwall bolt,past thenthe onfifth to more solid ground bolt, to the lower-off. J.Domeney, S.Stojanovski, Oct 1992.</climb><climbclimb>
<climb extra="5Þ4Þ" grade="23" guide.action="submit" guide.id="17" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Urban Renewal" new="false" number="1525." stars="**" id="25" fa="Evan Peacock, value="HarderDec 1992.">Harder than it looks and prone to spitting climbers off like flies. Start immediatlyimmediately toright theof RTrad of TWMDWankers. StraightFollow up the corner diagonallyand left,thin finishing face (crux) then up Tradthe Wankers.flake 5finishing Uat boltsa plus lower off. EvanAt Peacock,some Dec 1992.">Harder than it looks and prone to spitting climbers off like flies. Start immediately to the R of TWMD. Straight up the corner diagonally L, finishing up Trad Wankers. Evan Peacock, Dec 1992.</climb><climb
stage in 2019 the first bolt was found broken off. The initial moves are now unprotected.</climb>
<climb extra="5Þ" grade="1920" guide.action="submit" guide.id="18" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Drilling in the Name of" new="false" number="1626." stars="*" id="26" fa="John Domeney, value="StartDec 1993.">Start up Urban Renewal to the thirdsecond BR, move rightR past 2 more to finish at the Jesus chain.</climb>
John Domeney, Dec 1993.">Start up <climb id="40" stars="" extra="4Þ" number="27." name="Interloper" length="10m" grade="18" fa="Gabriel Kinzler & Alan Jackson, Oct 2019">Somewhat contrived, yet opens up new possibilities. Start midway between Urban Renewal toand theJesus third BR, move R past 2 more to finish at the Jesus chain. John Domeney, Dec 1993.</climb><climb
Built my Hammer Drill. Lower section is a crimpfest, the middle section a side-pulling stepladder and upper section a cruxy blank face. Stay centred on the bolt line and do not use holds to your left (Urban Renewal) or right (Jesus). Finish at the same anchor as Resurrection and Drilling in the Name Of. In loving memory of Majo.</climb>
<climb extra="5Þ" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="19" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Resurrection" new="false" number="1728." stars="*" value="Takes a line between DITNO and Jesus, covering the line of another route that fell down.... . Climb to the 3rd bolt of Jesus and trend L past 2 more BR to finish as for DITNO. id="27" fa="OCCG (Old Codgers Climbing Group) 2005.">Takes a line between DITNO and Jesus, covering >Covers the line of another route that fell down... Climb Starts up Jesus Built my Hammer Drill to the 3rdthird bolt, ofbefore Jesustrending andleft trend L past 2two more bolts to finish as for DITNO. OCCG (Old Codgers Climbing Group) 2005.</climb><climbclimb>
<climb extra="4Þ" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="19" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Jesus Built My Hammer Drill" new="false" number="1829." stars="**" valueid="The 28" fa="John Domeney, Oct 1992.">The cliff classic, - a chameleon of a route, changing all the time. The grade is anything from 14 to 20, presently about 17-18. At the RH end of the climbable rock are 4 Usbolts plus a lower off, with actually some decent moves in between.</climb>
John Domeney, Oct<text 1992.">The cliff classic - a chameleon of a route, changing all the time. The grade is anything from 14 to 20, presently about 17-18. At the RH end of the climbable rock are 4 bolts plus a lower off, with actually some decent moves in between. John Domeney, Oct 1992.</climb><id="30"/>
<climb id="31" name=" The Process of Elimination " length="10m" grade="20" extra="4Þ" fa="D. Gray, Jan 2012." stars="" number="30.">Takes the old top rope line between JBMHD and BLC, using the existing bolts. A little discipline is needed to eschew the holds on the other two climbs but it gives an independent and surprisingly solid climb. Finish at the BLC rap chains.</climb>
<climb id="29" name="The Blind Leading The Crippled " length="10m" grade="16" fa="Duncan Meerding, Paul Pritchard, Nov 2010." extra="4Þ" stars="" number="31.">The soaring line R of Jesus Built My Hammer Drill. 4 bolts to chain.</climb>
</guide>
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