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<?xml<guide version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?2">
<guide><text class="heading1" new <header access="false"Cleverly positioned so you can fit in at  number="null.">Waterworks Quarry</text><text class="Editor"
        new="false"
        number="null.">by least two or three nightmare epics after work. The Quarry is on Waterworks Rd (surprise) between Lynton Ave and Romilly St in Dynnyrne. Travel south along Davey St (B64) using the right hand lane, as you would to drive to Fern Tree and kunanyi/Mt Wellington. Continue straight ahead through the lights at the Southern Outlet intersection to stay on Davey St until taking a left turn at the first roundabout down Lynton Ave. Turn right at the bottom of the steep hill onto Waterworks Rd and follow for almost a kilometre to locate the crag on the left hand side. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;After some debate as to whether they would close the cliff to climbing due to safety issues, the Hobart City Council in their wisdom decided instead to clear the old quarry floor for a &quot;pump&quot; bike track, erect a fence along the cliff line, and even install a child-proof gate - plus of course the usual warning notices etc. We are eternally in their debt!" acknowledgement="by John Domeney, originally published in Craglets.</text><text Updated by Tony McKenny, Dec 2007" guide.action="submit"  classguide.id="0" guide.page="text0" newguide.type="falseheader" history="" intro="WARNING. A massive rock fall occurred above value="A rock is a rock they say, but if you think bolted routes take the adventure out of climbing then it’s time you paid a visit to the birthplace of the world’s next fad: choss climbing!">A and over Justin&apos;s Crack and Spiderman&apos;s Arsehole in 2010. The cliff above these two routes is still  unstable and more rock fall over these climbs is not unlikely.        &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;A rock is a rock they say, but if you think bolted routes take the adventure out of climbing then it’s time you paid a visit to the birthplace of the world’s next fad: choss climbing!</text><text         class="text">Take Take one tottering pile of exfoliating rubble, add wide-eyed climbers with psychotic hammer drills and shares in Ramset. The result: a multitude of good routes carefully engineered so that every ascent is a first ascent i.e. all the holds break all the time.</text><text The procedure for doing new routes is  class="text">Cleverly positioned so you can fit in at least two or three nightmare epics after work, the Quarry is on Waterworks Road (surprise) between Lynton Ave and Romilly Street in Dynyrne.</text><text
        class="text">The procedure for doing new routes is as follows. Put on a blindfold, rap down, drilling at random. Carry a sack of rocks to place on holds so that every ascentionist gets a “unique” experience and every belayer gets a discount lobotomy.</text><text
        class="text">Remember, leading is the way to go here as the only other access to the chains is by jumping off the top and grabbing them on the way past.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="7m"
        name="Justin’s Crack">The ramp to as follows. Put on a blindfold, rap down, drilling at random. Carry a sack of rocks to place on holds so that every ascentionist gets a “unique” experience and every belayer gets a discount lobotomy. Remember, leading is the way to go here as the only other access to the chains is by jumping off the top and grabbing them on the way past. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;If you haven&apos;t got the message, the rock here is loose. Small and large blocks regularly part company with the cliff - be warned. Oh, and take the stars with a grain of salt (or perhaps a residue of dolerite grit instead)." name="Waterworks Quarry" rock="Slabby, chossy, quarried dolerite" sun="Afternoon sun" walk="30 seconds" id="1" camping="" autonumber="true"/>
  <gps id="38">
    <point pid="0" latitude="-42.90333" longitude="147.31081" easting="525373" northing="5249873" zone="55G" code="" description="Waterworks Quarry"/>
  </gps>
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      <climb>5</climb>
      <climb>6</climb>
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  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="7m" name="Justin’s Crack" number="1." stars="*" id="3" fa=" Justin Kennedy.">Warning - extremely loose rock above. Trad climbing at the Waterworks, what next! The thin line to the S-shaped crack 20m left of Twilight Groping. Justin Kennedy.</climb><climb
        extra="Take some small cams for the crack. Walk off at far left of cliff.</climb>
  <climb extra="2Þ" grade="21" lengthguide.action="7msubmit" guide.id="2" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="7m" name="Spiderman’s Arsehole" number="2." stars="" nameid="Spiderman’s4" Arseholefa=">Start Jon Tiller, Nov 1991.">Warning - extremely loose rock above. Start just right of Justin’s Crack . Follow athin smallface shallow crack on tweaky holds, (clipclipping the carrot bolt onnear Justin’s Crack. The crux starts at the second bolt. Jon Tiller(again, Nov/91no bracket).</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="4Þ" grade="17" length="10m" name="Don&apos;t Buy a Cheap Ryobi" number="3." stars="" id="5" fa="A. Lewis and T. Helleman, June, 2009.">Start just left of Twilight Groping behind the tree. Climb the face past 4 U's to a chain. Stays left of Twilight Groping the whole way, and avoids the easier (and chossier) left arête.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="1917" length="15m10m" name="Twilight Groping" number="4." stars="" id="6" fa="Richard Marshall, May name="Twilight Groping"1989.">Four U bolts up the slab to the left of the Eye-Bolt Route with the crux just below the fourth bolt. Reaching left and clipping the final bolt on DBACR can minimise the final runout up to the lower-off shared with DBACR.</climb>
  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="12" guide.action="submit" guide.id="3" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Eye Bolt Route" number="5." stars="*" id="7" fa="">Classic face climbing. The5 routeglue-ins isplus found just left a lower-off. Probably the best beginner's lead in Hobart.</climb>
  <climb extra="4Þ" grade="15" length="11m" name="Weetbix" number="6." stars="*" id="8" fa="E. Jones, T. Gilbert and G. Abell, 14 Nov 2009.">Fun at the grade. start 2m right of the nightmareEye descentBolt fromRoute. Up the topdark ofslabby Bastard Cancerrock past 4 U-bolts. RichardFinishes Marshall, May/89straight up.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb id="41" stars="" extra="4Þ  " extranumber="7." gradename="12Cheerios" length="8m11m" grade="17" fa="Gabriel Kinzler, Jun 2020">Cheeky alternative start to Weetbix from the far right corner. Crimpy slab problem instead of the easy ladder of Weetbix.</climb>
  <climb extra="3Þ" grade="12" guide.action="submit" guide.id="4" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="8m" name="Five Four" number="8." stars="" id="10" fa=" Jon Tiller, Aug 1993.">Start 10m leftL of Bastard Cancer. Jon Tiller, Aug/93.</climb><climbUp slab into corner past 3 bolts to lower-off. Good for beginners!</climb>
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        name="Death Unto Racists">Start 2m left of Bastard Cancer. Jon Tiller, Aug/93.</climb><climb
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  <climb extra="4Þ" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="5" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m" name="Death Unto Racists" number="9." stars="" id="11" fa="Jon Tiller, Aug 1993.">Start 2m L of Bastard Cancer. Up left side of face. 4 bolts plus lower off.</climb>
  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="19" length="15m" name="Bastard Cancer" number="10." stars="*" id="12" fa="Richard Marshall, Feb 1987.">The arête left of the big slab. MostStarts ascentson startface, upstay theout of corner toon theR immediateas rightvery (17)loose. Small5 wiresbolts protectled theup topright sectionside whichof isface easy.to Richardshared Marshall, Feb/87lower off.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="18" guide.action="submit"   extraguide.id="7" guide.page="0" gradeguide.type="18climb" length="20m" name="Phantom Stone Thrower" number="11." stars="*"    nameid="13" fa="PhantomJon Stone ThrowerTiller, Sep 1993.">Start 3m rightR of Bastard Cancer. Tricky slab climbing., Jonmoving Tiller, Sep/93.</climb><climb
       L into the groove at the very top. 5 BRs plus lower off.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="2420" length="20m15m" name="Ruddiocracy" number="12." stars="*" id="14" fa="Guy Abell &amp; Emlyn Jones, Mar 2010">Start immediately R of PST, climbing just to the L of the bolts. Exciting climbing with some thin moves. The crux clip is now a little cruxier, having lost a handy jug, adding a grade or two (from 19). May still shed a little rock so belayer beware!</climb>
  <climb extra="7Þ" grade="24" guide.action="submit" guide.id="8" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Les Grands Ensembles">Starts 1m number="13." stars="**" id="15" fa="Richard Cockerill, May 2000.">Starts 5m to the leftR of TourPhantom deStone France, Thrower (under L end of roof) and follows a line of seven bolts up to the chain at the top of TdF (the last bolt is not visible from the ground). Richard Cockerill, May/00Thin slabbing.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="7Þ" grade="25" guide.action="submit"   extraguide.id="9" guide.page="0" gradeguide.type="26/27climb" length="20m" name="Tour de France" number="14." stars="*"    nameid="16" fa="TourHamish de FranceJackson, Sep 1994.">The line of bolts (7) up the big slab right2m R of Bastard CancerLGE. A well known test piece, originally bolted by Justin Kennedy and Richard Marshall circa 1987, butand noteventually climbed free until 1994! at grade 26 in 1994. The climb is substantially easier these days since the formation of new 'large' holds in both crux sections due to exfoliation. Good thin slabbing although it's a bit contrived in spots. Difficult last clip., Hamishand Jackson, Sep/94some of the upper bolts are looking a bit rusty.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb id="39" stars="**" extra="9Þ" number="15."  extraname="Driller Direct" length="20m" grade="2122" lengthfa="20m"
        Tim Meech, Dec 2017.">Starting at Tour de France. Nice technical/bouldery moves trending right of the block face. Follow u-bolts to join Serial Driller. Extra bolt has been added for 'high' traverse to chains, no need to clip second last U. And if confident, climbs well to clip the second bolt as your 1st.</climb>
  <climb extra="9Þ" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="11" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Serial Driller">Follow  number="16." stars="***" id="17" fa="John Domeney, Dec 1993.">Magic climbing. Follow the steel to the rightR of Tour. John Domeney, Dec/93.</climb><climb
        extra="Start at the layback crack (blue spray paint arrow) and trend L at the top to the chain in the middle of the face. WARNING: a very large chunk of rock has come off (May 2017) at the start of the moves left to the chains, taking several holds with it (and the climber on it - luckily, no injury sustained), bringing the grade up to 21. Note, extra bolt added for high traverse to chains (Dec 2017), can still be climbed 'low or high' to chains.</climb>
  <climb extra="9Þ" grade="20" lengthguide.action="20msubmit" guide.id="12" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb"      length="20m" name="Open Festering Wounds" number="17." stars="**" id="18" fa="John Domeney, Jan 1994.">Start as for Serial Driller. Move rightR at the third bolt and up past six more to a chain.</climb>
John  Domeney, Jan/94.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="23" length="10m"
        name="Sequels of the Light">The route finishes at a she-oak. Evan Peacock, Dec/92.</climb><climb  <climb id="32" name="Totally Awesome" length="21m" grade="21" fa="Dave Humphries Feb 2012" extra="8Þ" stars="" number="18.">Name says it all... Start a metre to the right of OFW. Climb past the bolts until you're at the anchors (you clip a couple of OFW bolts). All the obvious loose stuff has been removed, but I guess it will 'shed' for a little while.</climb>
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      <path id="83605" namepoints="Pathetic Nongs Steal Hangers, Yes I’m Talking to You Arsehole">Four bolts up the groove 4m left of A.Rosa, Oct/92.</climb><climb519.0,244.0, 465.0,214.0,label 434.0,114.0, 434.0,67.0," d="M519.0,244.0C497.4,232.0 478.5,234.7 465.0,214.0C451.5,193.3 437.9,132.4 434.0,114.0C430.1,95.6 436.2,82.6 434.0,67.0" linkedTo="27"/>
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      <path valueid="Climb up the loose pedestal and through shattered rock to a move R on to more solid ground. Looks bad but is actually quite safe. 4 bolts plus lower off. J.Domeney, S.Stojanovski, Oct/92.">Climb up the loose pedestal and through shattered rock to a move R on to more solid ground. Looks bad but is actually quite safe. 4 bolts plus lower off. J.Domeney, S.Stojanovski, Oct/92.</climb><climb
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  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="23" guide.action="submit" guide.id="13" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Sequels of the Light" number="19." stars="*" id="20" fa="Evan Peacock, Dec 1992.">At the R end of the crag is a short buttress. Start at the corner at the L end of this. Up the corner then continue with some tricky moves past the overlap. Lower-off is over on the back (best to abseil off this to clean the route, as the top is quite loose).</climb>
  <climb id="36" stars="" extra="5Þ" number="20." name="Sequels of Nongs" length="12" grade="22" fa="">Start up Sequels and move R at the overlap into Pathetic Nongs, finishing as for that route.</climb>
  <climb extra="4Þ" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="14" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Pathetic Nongs Steal Hangers, Yes I’m Talking to You Arsehole" number="21." stars="**" id="22" fa="A. Rosa, Oct 1992.">Very nice, balancey, climbing up the groove just R of SOTL.</climb>
  <text id="33">The rock to the R of PNSH etc is in the process of "stablisation" - most of the loose rock has been removed but CAUTION if you are round that area! There is probably still some more to come down....</text>
  <climb id="43" stars="" extra="5Þ" number="22." name="COVID" length="10m" grade="19" fa="Alan Jackson &amp; Gabriel Kinzler, Jun 2020">A route squeezed in between PNSH and the rubbish rock to the right (use the arete to the right but don't venture further right). Kick right from the pedestal near the top to finish. Might not really be 19 but with a heavy fever and respiratory difficulty it just might be.</climb>
  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="14" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Oh Joyous Lobotomy">A  number="23." stars="*" id="23" fa="J. Domeney, Sept 1993.">"A route in the classic tradition of Waterworks Quarry. A route that will warm the hearts and minds of repeat ascentionists, chill them to the bone and make them sick to their stomachs. This route epitomises its creators hedonistic and sociopathic style and is a textbook case of man against rock, rock against gravity and gravity against the combined forces of Ramset and Ryobi. The first bolt, with its stark placement and uncompromising height off the deck, deftly describes mans inhumanity to man. It is also a vivid phallic symbol graphically outlining the first ascentionists subconscious insecurity about the size of his bit. The moves up the wall above form an abstract modern dance that brings to mind images of East European conflict especially the side-pull which is the key to reaching the third bolt and a new round of Geneva peace talks. A man will always return to old stomping grounds and search for his roots; pulling up on the crucial razor sharp undercut one can almost feel them. The heady aroma of vast African plains drifts tantalizinglytantalisingly through ones nostrils and momentarily the mists of time part, you run, then walk, then crawl back down the evolutionary chain until an apelike heave sends you scurrying up and over the crux. You pause to appreciate the moment and the true symbolism of the metaphor, but a glance at the vacant expanse looming high to the left tells you the best is still to come.," John Domeney, Sep/93.</climb><climb
        extra="&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Many have puzzled over this eclectic description, but most have scratched their heads and abandoned their search for the elusive climb, believing it to be a complete figment of John's fertile imagination. The best bet is to climb Trad Wankers to the overlap, then via a long reach clip the bolt over the lip. Traverse left a metre and stem up to the overlap then layback the right hand arête of the rooflet above to reach the lower-off. Enjoy! The final moves above the overlap have altered considerably due to changes to the rock that occurred in mid 2017. Now slightly harder as a result. Careful of loose holds towards the end.</climb>
  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="2318" lengthguide.action="10msubmit" nameguide.id="Urban Renewal"
        new="false" number="" stars=""
        value="Up the corner diagonally left finishing up Trad Wankers. 5 U bolts plus lower off. Evan Peacock, Dec/92.">Up the corner diagonally left finishing up Trad Wankers. 5 U bolts plus lower off. Evan Peacock, Dec/92.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="19" 16" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Trad Wankers Must Die" number="24." stars="**" id="24" fa="J.Domeney, S.Stojanovski, Oct 1992.">Looks like a pile of choss, particularly in the region near the overlap. Climb the loose pedestal to a ledge, then up the wall past three bolts to the overlap. Move right then up the wall past the fifth bolt, to the lower-off.</climb>
  <climb extra="4Þ" grade="23" guide.action="submit" guide.id="17" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Urban Renewal" number="25." stars="**" id="25" fa="Evan Peacock, Dec 1992.">Harder than it looks and prone to spitting climbers off like flies. Start immediately right of Trad Wankers. Follow the corner and thin face (crux) then up the flake finishing at a lower off. At some stage in 2019 the first bolt was found broken off. The initial moves are now unprotected.</climb>
  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="18" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Drilling in the Name of"         newnumber="false26." numberstars="*" starsid="26" fa="John Domeney,       value="StartDec 1993.">Start up Urban Renewal to the thirdsecond hangerBR, move rightR past 2 U-boltsmore to finish at the Jesus chain.</climb>
John Domeney, Dec/93.">Start up  <climb id="40" stars="" extra="4Þ" number="27." name="Interloper" length="10m" grade="18" fa="Gabriel Kinzler &amp; Alan Jackson, Oct 2019">Somewhat contrived, yet opens up new possibilities. Start midway between Urban Renewal toand theJesus third hanger, move right past 2 U-bolts to finish at the Jesus chain. John Domeney, Dec/93.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" Built my Hammer Drill. Lower section is a crimpfest, the middle section a side-pulling stepladder and upper section a cruxy blank face. Stay centred on the bolt line and do not use holds to your left (Urban Renewal) or right (Jesus). Finish at the same anchor as Resurrection and Drilling in the Name Of. In loving memory of Majo.</climb>
  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="19" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Resurrection" number="28." stars="*" id="27" fa="OCCG (Old Codgers  name="Climbing Group) 2005.">Covers the line of another route that fell down. Starts up Jesus Built Mymy Hammer Drill to the third bolt, before trending left past two more bolts to finish as for DITNO.</climb>
  <climb extra="4Þ" newgrade="false17" numberguide.action="submit" guide.id="19" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Jesus Built My Hammer Drill" number="29." stars="**" valueid="At the RH end of the climable rock. The 28" fa="John Domeney, Oct 1992.">The cliff classic, - a chameleon of a route, changing all the time. 4The Usgrade plusis loweranything off.from John14 Domeneyto 20, Oct/92.">At presently about 17-18. At the RH end of the climableclimbable rock are 4 bolts plus a lower off, with actually some decent moves in between.</climb>
  <text id="30"/>
  <climb id="31" name=" The cliff classic, a chameleon of a route, changing all the time. 4 Us plus lower off. John Domeney, Oct/92.</climb><Process of Elimination         " length="10m" grade="20" extra="4Þ" fa="D. Gray, Jan 2012." stars="" number="30.">Takes the old top rope line between JBMHD and BLC, using the existing bolts. A little discipline is needed to eschew the holds on the other two climbs but it gives an independent and surprisingly solid climb. Finish at the BLC rap chains.</climb>
  <climb id="29" name="The Blind Leading The Crippled " length="10m" grade="16" fa="Duncan Meerding, Paul Pritchard, Nov 2010." extra="4Þ" stars="" number="31.">The soaring line R of Jesus Built My Hammer Drill. 4 bolts to chain.</climb>
</guide>