Versions Compared

Key

  • This line was added.
  • This line was removed.
  • Formatting was changed.
Comment: Guide edited
Guide
<guide version="3">
  <header autonumber="true" camping="" id="1" walk="1-2 hours" sun="Morning sun" rock="Slabby pink and grey granite up to 300m, mostly pretty run-out." name="Flowstone Wall" intro="A remote and dangerous cliff, it is a huge, compact, east facing wall of water worn grey granite up to 200m in height, about halfway along the Sealevel Traverse. There are few routes on it due to inaccessibility, lack of obvious lines and poor protection.The climbing is mostly poorly protected slab climbing, although Arocknaphobia is a well protected classic." history="" guide.type="header" guide.page="0" guide.id="0" guide.action="submit" acknowledgement="" access="Located ~500m south of Mt.Parsons summit, just before the swim on the Sealevel Traverse. It can be reached by following the Skyline Traverse to the saddle between Mt. Parsons and Mt. Baudin and then heading down the gully to the foot of the cliff (over an hour). Alternatively if the swell is gentle it doesn&apos;t take much longer to follow the Sealevel Traverse, which is more pleasant."/>
  <text class="heading3" id="21">Flowstone East Face</text>
  <image id="2" legendTitle="Flowstone Wall" legendy="11" legendx="8" legend="true" height="933" width="" src="coles bay flowstone.jpg" noPrint="false">
    <drawing>
      <path id="34980" linkedTo="6" d="M364,575C364.4,565 358.7294204298385,557.7999892214203 365,550C371.2705795701615,542.2000107785797 397.4237454959724,530.8615135130816 405,524C412.5762545040276,517.1384864869184 410.4651451416866,508.90695028678726 418,502C425.5348548583134,495.09304971321274 468.20708782694516,461.80455346721504 489,447C509.79291217305484,432.19544653278496 536.8756272441041,420.27269264762646 543,413C549.1243727558959,405.72730735237354 537,399.5078914592038 537,390C537,380.4921085407962 537.2483844807671,374.0522617269261 543,366C548.7516155192329,357.9477382730739 593.1870265270076,311.75684230236124 597,306C600.8129734729924,300.24315769763876 589.029424318643,293.79305512130856 594,289C598.970575681357,284.20694487869144 636.1637408358772,274.1932507163437 653,252C669.8362591641228,229.8067492836563 670.4,204.6 682,173" points="364,575, 365,550, 405,524, 418,502,belay 489,447, 543,413,lower 537,390, 543,366, 597,306,lower 594,289, 653,252,lower 682,173,"/>
    </drawing>
    <legend>
      <climb>6</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <image id="24" src="flowstone.jpg" height="710" legend="true" legendTitle="Flowstone Wall" legendx="15" legendy="12" printLayout="DontRotate">
    <drawing>
      <path id="22240" points="83,532, 114,484, 154,435, 239,348, 312,282, 434,173, 538,102, 594,75," d="M83,532C95.39999999999999,512.8 100.50024119144074,502.44333245676404 114,484C127.49975880855926,465.55666754323596 136.87843713985512,453.6282603918376 154,435C171.12156286014488,416.3717396081624 210.72091328386787,375.3841789086596 239,348C267.2790867161321,320.6158210913404 282.70293298861174,308.29223962560485 312,282C341.29706701138826,255.70776037439515 394.59982703355473,204.38066873433695 434,173C473.40017296644527,141.61933126566305 516.7940019590108,114.98867380010593 538,102C559.2059980409892,89.01132619989407 571.6,85.8 594,75" linkedTo="3"/>
      <path id="2058" points="376,458, 369,431, 409,384,belay 445,350, 483,317, 521,287,lower 518,266, 527,238, 555,196,lower 553,179, 585,160, 617,148,lower 624,75,lower" d="M376,458C373.2,447.2 364.45591585845364,441.18976443861914 369,431C373.54408414154636,420.81023556138086 395.447199852818,398.4444317358124 409,384C422.552800147182,369.5555682641876 430.317050927107,363.29402145788964 445,350C459.682949072893,336.70597854211036 468.09055540186927,329.35914486423997 483,317C497.90944459813073,304.64085513576003 516.1986672001965,293.9962277939995 521,287C525.8013327998035,280.0037722060005 516.9686888004506,274.42237479631984 518,266C519.0313111995494,257.57762520368016 521.5024316923011,248.40080490645724 527,238C532.4975683076989,227.59919509354276 552.2389317801442,202.26550096044218 555,196C557.7610682198558,189.73449903955782 548.616723285703,184.25993205715642 553,179C557.383276714297,173.74006794284358 572.6968899176574,165.9593189461347 585,160C597.3031100823426,154.0406810538653 611.299128089121,160.4249772416593 617,148C622.700871910879,135.5750227583407 621.2,104.19999999999996 624,75" linkedTo="6"/>
      <path id="71307" points="522,438, 531,419, 553,405, 568,382, 592,359,belay 595,337, 614,325, 602,307,belay 621,247, 643,195, 668,137,belay" d="M522,438C525.6,430.4 525.2422090957068,425.1292612852153 531,419C536.7577909042932,412.8707387147847 545.6243644341657,412.37563556583433 553,405C560.3756355658343,397.62436443416567 560.8970522370436,390.3778358229743 568,382C575.1029477629564,373.6221641770257 587.4305361364817,366.6157731058639 592,359C596.5694638635183,351.3842268941361 590.1751456486029,344.4565930885227 595,337C599.8248543513971,329.5434069114773 612.033708727105,333.4269625981214 614,325C615.966291272895,316.5730374018786 601.2265282157629,315.6186855957848 602,307C602.7734717842371,298.3813144042152 613.2361548127627,268.20855270659956 621,247C628.7638451872373,225.79144729340044 634.1261442689395,215.76859851950348 643,195C651.8738557310605,174.23140148049652 658,160.2 668,137" linkedTo="7"/>
      <path id="20077" points="646,381, 646,357, 653,329, 652,303, 645,282,belay 654,245, 678,222, 704,196,belay 710,166, 724,135, 741,110,belay" d="M646,381C646,371.4 644.7192446834413,366.51418235157945 646,357C647.2807553165587,347.48581764842055 651.8506629694663,339.34403327480356 653,329C654.1493370305337,318.65596672519644 653.4857587632276,311.72883273396235 652,303C650.5142412367724,294.27116726603765 644.6948580019813,290.8491179425435 645,282C645.3051419980187,273.1508820574565 647.5921113876465,256.6507065679155 654,245C660.4078886123535,233.3492934320845 668.5033860564635,231.3066816646658 678,222C687.4966139435365,212.6933183353342 697.9284268924768,206.62525293816574 704,196C710.0715731075232,185.37474706183426 706.1873529402102,177.62857353235884 710,166C713.8126470597898,154.37142646764116 718.1431810226819,145.58006008805842 724,135C729.8568189773181,124.41993991194158 734.2,119.99999999999999 741,110" linkedTo="8"/>
      <path id="68425" points="697,362, 705,324, 718,291, 731,286, 731,260, 723,248, 736,200, 759,171, 776,126, 796,93,belay" d="M697,362C700.2,346.8 700.9760730218568,337.60470549753177 705,324C709.0239269781432,310.39529450246823 714.8539452679016,295.59807999306685 718,291C721.1460547320984,286.40192000693315 728.8454082784143,291.1378725668582 731,286C733.1545917215857,280.8621274331418 732.1884501643332,265.6451382805824 731,260C729.8115498356668,254.3548617194176 722.5209204227069,253.74895492751688 723,248C723.4790795772931,242.25104507248312 729.7294757756274,213.41195459101905 736,200C742.2705242243726,186.58804540898095 755.0310277724333,185.26349394281795 759,171C762.9689722275667,156.73650605718205 769.3847920072102,139.94557360642182 776,126C782.6152079927898,112.05442639357818 788,106.19999999999999 796,93" linkedTo="9"/>
      <path id="35399" points="755,336, 759,294, 767,246, 767,210, 759,169," d="M755,336C756.6,319.2 756.7696026163297,310.72798037752665 759,294C761.2303973836703,277.27201962247335 765.6347490661568,260.3351348053529 767,246C768.3652509338432,231.6648651946471 768.4880939130567,224.3229039131708 767,210C765.5119060869433,195.6770960868292 755.0310277724333,183.26349394281795 759,169" linkedTo="10"/>
      <path id="62534" points="874,288, 886,259, 900,228, 907,200, 911,163, 909,117, 910,70,belay" d="M874,288C878.8,276.40000000000003 881.0084824055975,270.51888675631335 886,259C890.9915175944025,247.48111324368668 896.1287787584445,238.87628825008463 900,228C903.8712212415555,217.12371174991537 905.0736716502157,211.38284933963448 907,200C908.9263283497843,188.61715066036552 910.6413996290765,177.8819153933213 911,163C911.3586003709235,148.1180846066787 909.1980249298255,135.41631847376578 909,117C908.8019750701745,98.58368152623422 909.6,88.79999999999998 910,70" linkedTo="11"/>
    </drawing>
    <legend>
      <climb>3</climb>
      <climb>6</climb>
      <climb>7</climb>
      <climb>8</climb>
      <climb>9</climb>
      <climb>10</climb>
      <climb>11</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="3" name="Dance Of The Sugar Plum Fairy (Direct Start)" fa="Garn Cooper, Tim Chappell, A.Ross, L.Bottomley, Sep 1991" stars="" number="1." length="50m" grade="15" extra="">Start at the swim on the Sealevel Traverse.&lt;br/&gt;1. 50m. Go up the slab, no runners.&lt;br/&gt;2. Continue as for original route.</climb>
  <climb id="4" name="Dance of the Sugar Plum Fairy" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="1" guide.action="submit" fa="P.Cullen, B.Kennedy, Jan 1977." stars="" number="2." length="315m" grade="16" extra="">Dick Hain Memorial Route. This climb takes the huge arête on the left hand edge of Flowstone Wall. It starts 30m before the swim on the Sealevel Traverse, beneath a leftwards rising traverse under roofs. Something approximating the top half of the Dance was climbed by Ian Brown and Chris Fergusson in December 1974, by abseiling to where the huge flake/chimney drops over the edge into the sea.&lt;br/&gt;1. 40m. Climb short wall of 7m then layback up corner to roof. Traverse left then up overlap to nut belay.&lt;br/&gt;2. 40m. Traverse easily left on slab until scrubby corner is reached.&lt;br/&gt;3. 45m. Straight up corner past overhangs on top to belay in large chimney on slab.&lt;br/&gt;4. 50m. Straight up chimney to bush belay.&lt;br/&gt;5. 45m. Continue up slab to bush belay.&lt;br/&gt;6. 50m. Up slab.&lt;br/&gt;7. 45m. Up slab.</climb>
  <climb id="5" name="Undyturd" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="3" guide.action="submit" fa="K.Lindorff, K.Roseberry, Jan 1977." stars="" number="3." length="190m" grade="17" extra="">The name tells. Approximately 50m right of Dance of the Sugar Plum Fairy at a small headwall.&lt;br/&gt;1. 40m. Up the headwall then up tending left to small ledge.&lt;br/&gt;2. 40m. Up tending slightly right to horizontal bushy break. Belay on left hand end of this.&lt;br/&gt;3. 45m. Step up left then up the slab above passing bush on left to belay in groove below steepening. Move belay 7m left to first line encountered.&lt;br/&gt;4. 65m. Up the chimney and groove above to make an awkward step left and traverse to line just right of bushy gully. Up this to bush belay. Traverse off right then up.</climb>
  <climb id="6" name="Arocknaphobia" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="5" guide.action="submit" fa="Sam Edwards, Rolan Eberhard, alt. Jan 1996." stars="***" number="4." length="160m" grade="22" extra="">One of the best routes at Coles Bay. Good protection, excellent climbing and excellent rock should make this route popular. Although graded 22, the climb may be better described as 19A0. The hard moves at the overlap can be aided on bolts to give a fun outing to the 19 leader. The first two pitches follow the huge right trending arc overlap on the left of flowstone wall. This obvious feature can be seen from the top of Mt. Parsons on the walk in. The view of the wall is gained from the summit of Mt Parsons, which is about 50m south of the skyline traverse track. &lt;br/&gt;It's best to abseil in from above - walk to the top of the first peak of Mt. Baudin (as viewed from Sleepy Bay) by following the skyline traverse track, which is marked by fading stripes of white paint. Avoid descending to the Mt Dove saddle directly from the Mt Parsons summit look out, and instead re find the skyline traverse track 50m north of the Mt Parsons look out. This is directly above the climb and the next hill up from the gully leading down to the wall. Walk down easy angled slabs to the rap station at the top of pitch 4.&lt;br/&gt;Two raps (Pitches 4 and 3) will put you at the top of pitch 2, from here rap down to a ledge (Do not use the DBB on this ledge, its is for accessing High Anxiety ?) Once at the base of the last abseil, scramble down and left then up to the base of the arc on the left side.&lt;br/&gt;It's possible to access the climb via the Sealevel Traverse, but this is not the best way to go.&lt;br/&gt;1. 25m 22(19A0). (Gear and 2 bolts) Follow the short overlap until it ends. Climb over it just left of the bolt and up to belay at the base of the main overlap.&lt;br/&gt;2. 25m 18. (4 bolts and gear) A great pitch. Undercling and jam the overlap until a bolted belay is reached where an obvious dyke crosses it.&lt;br/&gt;3. 45m 16. (6 bolts) Follow the dyke through the overlap, then up easily to belay below a short steep wall.&lt;br/&gt;4. 20m 17. (3 bolts) Follow the juggy intrusion up the wall, then easily to a large ledge. This is where you rapped from when accessing the route.&lt;br/&gt;5. 25m 16. (6 bolts) An excellent feature up the final headwall. This pitch start on a ledge 10m about where you rapped from when accessing the route.&lt;br/&gt;Rack: 8 quickdraws, full set of BD cams from #0.3 to #4, double ropes for abseiling. All belays except the first are bolted.&lt;br/&gt;NOTE: Some of the U bolts have been glued in too far which can make them impossible to clip with quickdraws with wide noses (like the Wild Country Helium's)</climb>
  <climb id="7" name="High Anxiety" fa="Adrian Herrington, B.Kennedy, May 1983. (One piece of aid on pitch 3, freed on second ascent)." stars="" number="5." length="225m" grade="21" extra="">Again the name tells. A strong contender for the waddiest climb on the peninsula. Could be significantly easier with sticky boots, however these can't eliminate the 20m runout. Down ramp left of Crystal Voyager.&lt;br/&gt;1. 45m. Up obvious wall slab moving left to right trending corner, up slab following edge of overlap (thin unprotected) until mantle over overlap is possible (waddy). Belay at crack.&lt;br/&gt;2. 40m. Up right along overlap (~3m) then move left up on to slab. Up slab (run out) to hold at about 20m (crux just before hold). Very thin.&lt;br/&gt;3. 50m. Up ramp, and overlap. Move left then up line of holds through right hand end of major arch. Straight up to belay.&lt;br/&gt;4. 50m. Straight up slab to belay.&lt;br/&gt;5. 40m. Straight up slab to finish.</climb>
  <climb id="8" name="Free Ride" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="6" guide.action="submit" fa="P Cullen, Adrian Herington, Dec 1982." stars="" number="6." length="150m" grade="17" extra="">Pleasant. Involves climbing the prominent 5m corner near the base of the cliff about 30m left of Crystal Voyager.&lt;br/&gt;1. 45m. Climb to bottom of corner, climb it and belay on top.&lt;br/&gt;2. 40m. Straight up wall and slab above trending slightly right to belay.&lt;br/&gt;3. 65m. Straight on to top.</climb>
  <climb id="9" name="Spasm In The Outback" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="7" guide.action="submit" fa="G.Cooper, D.Humphries, Feb 1987." stars="" number="7." length="100m" grade="18" extra="">Created accidentally as an attempt to climb Crystal Voyager, it is possibly just a more direct version of this route. Climbs on the prominent brown streak just near Crystal Voyager. Sparse protection. Start below brown streak.&lt;br/&gt;1. 50m. Climb to tree at base of streak. Up 1m right of streak, following line of least resistance to poor belay in hollow scoop ~5m below a bolt.&lt;br/&gt;2. 50m. On via bolt to top.</climb>
  <climb id="10" name="Crystal Voyager" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="8" guide.action="submit" fa="Adrian Herington, B.Kennedy, Dec 1982." stars="" number="8." length="160m" grade="18" extra="">The classic of the cliff if you can navigate successfully. Directly up RHS of water streak nearest to prominent brown streak on lower part of wall, to RHS of major vertical flake system. Take care with the old bolts.&lt;br/&gt;1. 40m. Straight up RHS of water streak to belay at small cluster of flakes, half hanging.&lt;br/&gt;2. 40m. Up trending left to a bolt at 15m. From here straight up (sustained) to next bolt at 23m from the last, climbing eases a bit after about 15m, belay in crack 3m up and right of second bolt. Hanging belay.&lt;br/&gt;3. 50m. Straight up slab, belay where possible.&lt;br/&gt;4. 30m. On to top.</climb>
  <climb id="11" name="Prenatal Therapy" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="9" guide.action="submit" fa="Adrian Herington, Evan Peacock, Jun 1982." stars="" number="9." length="135m" grade="16" extra="">It is two water streaks right of Crystal Voyager and below the right hand end of a bracket-shaped - "{" - flake.&lt;br/&gt;1. 40m. Straight up water streak to belay in horizontal break.&lt;br/&gt;2. 45m. Continue up, moving left when the slab steepens, belay where possible.&lt;br/&gt;3. 50m. Straight up to belay in a corner.&lt;br/&gt;4. Easily onwards.</climb>
  <climb id="12" name="Roll Your Own" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="10" guide.action="submit" fa="Evan Peacock, Garn Cooper, May 1983." stars="" number="10." length="50m" grade="14" extra="">At the far right hand end of the wall at the easiest place to get onto it as you go right from Prenatal Therapy. About 5 or 6 water streaks to the right of Prenatal Therapy past a very steep section. Climb the water streak.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="13">Flowstone South Face</text>
  <text class="text" id="14">To the left (South) of all the other climbs on Flowstone Wall and above the swim on the Sea Level Traverse is a steeper wall. This wall can not easily be accessed from the sea level traverse as the rockface left of DOSPF is quite blank. The left most route on this wall (as of 2013, TJMR), starts on the rocky shoreline that marks to end of swim on the sea level traverse and was originally accessed by kayaking in from Sleepy Bay for a ground up ascent. The Hancock/Fisher routes were approached by abseil from the south side of the big block above the top pitch of Arocknophobia. An alternative approach to TJMR would also be to abseil from above about ~40m left of the abseil to OOW (the first ascent team of TJMR descended to their boats by abseil in this fashion).</text>
  <climb id="23" name="The Jackson McQueen route" fa="K McQueen and H Jackson alt. 2005" stars="**" number="11." length="150m" grade="20" extra="">In celebration of brotherhood adventures. Start: on the rocky shoreline at the back of the bay, this climb starts up the right most accessible crack line above dry land, a few metres back from high water line. &lt;br/&gt;1. 20m 20 Climb the left curving crack for 5m until it is possible to span right (crux, 1.7m span) to weakness. Up and right to semi-hanging belay on small ledges. &lt;br/&gt;2. 45m 18 Up face and thin cracks past mantel crux (slightly runout) then easiest route to large sloping ledge below and left of overhanging corner.&lt;br/&gt;3. 40m 18 Up overhanging corner on good holds, then up lovely thin seem on the hanging slab. Belay before gear gets too thin.&lt;br/&gt;4. 40+m 17 Up last few metres of seem (small wires) then up and left (bold, thin) to bushy runnel and then climb easier slab left of this to finish. An alternative final pitch going up right via steep slabs from the end of the seemseam (needs a bolt or would be very bold) would make this a classic climb. &lt;br/&gt;Descend via abseil from natural features (?just west of finish of climb).</climb>
  <climb id="15" name="Ocean of Wisdom" fa="Nick Hancock &amp; John Fischer (alt) Sep 2008." stars="***" number="12." length="270m" grade="20" extra="">1. 30m 20. Climb a left facing flake then step left and climb the beautiful dyke past 6 bolts to a DBB.&lt;br/&gt;2. 60m 16. Continue up the dyke with spaced protection to a flake belay.&lt;br/&gt;3. 60m 12. Climb the corner and move right to a spike belay.&lt;br/&gt;4. 60m 14. Climb the slab with minimal gear past a 5 Friend to a ledge.&lt;br/&gt;5. 60m 10. Climb the slab.</climb>
  <climb id="16" name="Permanent Residency" fa="Nick Hancock &amp; John Fischer (alt) Sep 2008." stars="**" number="13." length="270m" grade="23" extra="">1. 40m 17. Climb the crack leading to the big roof and belay at a foothold 5 metres below.&lt;br/&gt;2. 50m 23. Tackle the daunting wide roof crack on jams and a crazy kneebar, to belay in the trench above.&lt;br/&gt;3. 60m 12. Climb up the corner and continue as for Ocean of Wisdom pitches 4 &amp; 5.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="17">Flowstone Boulder</text>
  <text class="text" id="18">These climbs are on the huge boulder above and to the left of the top of Arocknophobia and above the finishes of Ocean of Wisdom, Permanent Residency and Sugar Plum Fairy.</text>
  <climb id="19" name="Worth Killing a Friend For" fa="John Fischer Sep 2008." stars="*" number="14." length="20m" grade="23" extra="">Climb the very thin crack in a shallow left facing corner to move left and climb the dyke on the left side of the block via 2 bolts.</climb>
  <climb id="20" name="Atonement" fa="Nick Hancock Jan 2009." stars="***" number="15." length="20m" grade="25" extra="">Climb the stunning flake via 6 bolts to a thread and 3.5 Friend belay.</climb>
</guide>