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<guide pagesize="500" version="3">
  <header access="" acknowledgement="" history="" intro="This section covers the coast between Sleepy Bay north to Cape Tourville." name="Cape Tourville Area" rock="White granite at Carp Bay Point, grainier at Cape Tourville" sun="Morning sun" walk="5-25 mins" id="1" camping="" autonumber="true"/>
  <text class="heading3" id="2">Rogers Useless Knob</text>
  <text class="Discussion" id="3">The pinnacle about 500 m north along the coast from Sleepy Bay, most easily reached by boat.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit""3""0" guide.type="climb" length="15m" name="Chunky Thighs" number="1." stars="" id="4" fa="Nick Hancock &amp; Doug McConnell Feb 2003.">Climb the grooves on the south face of the pinnacle, to a ledge on the L arête. Follow the thin slab above, past a carrot to the summit. Descent is best facilitated by lowering the second to the col, then abseiling off the east face, with the rope carefully placed over the summit.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit""4""0" guide.type="climb" length="15m" name="Parkination Space Station" number="2." stars="" id="5" fa="Nick Hancock &amp; Doug McConnell Feb 2003.">Climb the short overhanging crack on the east face of the pinnacle, to an awkward groove and a ledge on the arête. Continue up the arête to a smaller ledge, then follow the slab to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit""5""0" guide.type="climb" length="15m" name="Blue Water White Death" number="3." stars="**" id="6" fa="Nick Hancock Feb 2003.">A scary deep-water solo on the L wall of the entrance to the deep zawn, 20 metres north of the pinnacle. Traverse out R to the middle of the wall and follow the shallow groove to finish out L at a ledge.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="7">Carp Bay Point</text>
  <text class="text" id="8">This headland lies midway between Cape Tourville and Sleepy Bay. It can be seen from the light house as the point with the rock shelf extending into the sea. A rock pinnacle is also visible on the ridge line. To get there drive approx. 200m past the steep section of the road and park in the first gravel spot on the right. Walk 80 metres further north, just past a drain and head then right on an old 4WD track first north east then east down a wide ridge.</text>
  <text class="Discussion" id="9">The next three climbs are located on the detached piece of cliff between the main ridge and the rock shelf to the east. The best approach is to drop down to sea level off the end of the ridge line (you'll now be on the Wineglass Bay side of the detached cliff) and work back around to the south. Alternatively you can approach the top via the most obvious means (be careful). There are no lower-offs on the climbs, so you need to carry enough gear to set a belay rap.</text>
  <climb grade="14" length="15m" name="Cracked Princess" number="4." stars="" id="10" fa="Nick Hancock, Sophie LeRoux, Feb 2002.">At the eastern tip of the cliff line, just past a zawn, is a steep prow. This route climbs the wide crack to its L, on good face holds.</climb>
  <climb extra="2Þ" grade="26" length="15m" name="Span King" number="5." stars="**" id="11" fa="Nick Hancock, Feb 2002.">The desperate flared crack in the prow via two U-bolts.</climb>
  <climb extra="3Þ" grade="24" length="15m" name="Slappy Queen" number="6." stars="**" id="12" fa="N.Hancock, S.LeRoux, Feb 2002.">The vague open groove just to the R, via three U-bolts.</climb>
  <text id="95" class="text">Carp Bay Point Pinnacle&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Three routes were climbed on the obvious ‘pinnacle’ – a large boulder capped with another boulder on the ridge running down to Carp Bay Point, clearly visible from Sleepy Bay. A bit of a novelty and the summit was reached via the tree!&lt;br/&gt;</text>
  <climb id="96" stars="" extra="" number="7." name="Amber Gambler" length="13m" grade="24" fa="Andrew [Squib] Cubbon, Dean Rollins, Lizzy Oh 2016">A fairly serious slabby pitch with delicate thin climbing up the obvious blunt arête. The only gear is found at around 7m (bomber cams up to no.2). Crux is above this, but below is probably 22ish.</climb>
  <climb id="97" stars="" extra="" number="8." name="Deano’s Red Line   " length="10m" grade="16" fa="Dean Rollins, Lizzy Oh &amp; Squib 2016">Up the wide crack on the right of the pinnacle</climb>
  <climb id="98" stars="" extra="" number="9." name="Lizzie’s Green-a-go-go         " length="13m" grade="15" fa="Lizzy Oh, Dean Rollins &amp; Squib 2016">Up the crack just right of the arete. Then traverse the break off left.</climb>
  <text class="Discussion" id="13">The next three climbs are at the right hand end of the cliff line that faces Cape Tourville. Best approached by dropping down that side of the ridge at the midden. It's then easy enough to follow the rock shelf to the climbs. Sheffield Steal is probably the easiest to locate, just look for the bolts.</text>
  <climb grade="20" length="20m" name="Powder Monkey" number="710." stars="" id="14" fa="A.Bissett, K.Robinson, 2002.">Around 10m left of Snow Blind is an easy looking, left trending diagonal line. Follow this to a few tricky moves at the top. Rock and gear not great.</climb>
  <climb grade="20" length="30m" name="Snow Blind" number="811." stars="" id="15" fa="Andrew Bissett, 2002.">Twin corners immediately left of Sheffield Steal. Climb through the rooflet and continue up the corners, moving right to join the top of Sheffield Steal at its last bolt.</climb>
  <climb extra="7Þ" grade="22" length="30m" name="Sheffield Steal" number="912." stars="**" id="16" fa="Nick Hancock, Nov 2001.">Towards the right side of the cliffs, and just left of a big jutting roof, is an undercut arête with seven U-bolts leading to a tree belay well back. Very nice technical climbing.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="17">Cape Tourville</text>
  <text class="description" id="18">This is the steep, large cliff below the Cape Tourville lighthouse. From the lighthouse, drop downhill and about 150m southwest (towards Sleepy Bay). Scramble down and abseil from a variety of places, depending on what area of the cliff you intend climbing on. Alternative access is possible (but considerably longer) by walking down several hundred metres to the north of the lighthouse. Getting to the main face is rather difficult this way. People reckon the rock gets pretty manky on some of the upper pitches.</text>
  <text class="heading3" id="19">Painkiller Area</text>
  <text class="description" id="20">The following three climbs can be found at a new area at the far L hand end of the Cape Tourville cliffs, about 50 metres before they swing south towards Carp Bay Point. Follow a cairned and blazed track from 50 metres west of the Bluestone Bay turnoff from the Cape Tourville road. Eventually the path ends in a creekbed overlooking a high pillar just to the R, and a cairn atop a lower orange-topped buttress down L.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="24" guide.action="submit""19""0" guide.type="climb" length="40m" name="Painkiller" number="1013." stars="**" id="21" fa="Nick Hancock &amp; Doug McConnell, Feb 2003.">1. 25m 21. Climb a thin crack on the R side of the seaward face of the high pillar, then move L and pull over a roof into a v-groove. Climb this to a big ledge. 2. 15m 24. Follow the flared R trending crack to below the final tower, then climb the finger crack above on good locks.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="25" guide.action="submit""20""0" guide.type="climb" length="25m" name="E" number="1114." stars="***" id="22" fa="Doug McConnell &amp; Nick Hancock, Feb 2003.">The thin flake crack, past a big horizontal break, leading to twin cracks up the orange wall below the cairn.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="23" guide.action="submit""21""0" guide.type="climb" length="15m" name="Sister Morphine" number="1215." stars="*" id="23" fa="Doug McConnell &amp; Nick Hancock Feb 2003.">Climb the arête just right of a box shaped alcove 25m R of E.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="24">Delta of Venus Wall</text>
  <text class="description" id="25">Stumble onto Delta of Venus wall from the southern end of the Cape Tourville crags. It is first viewed as a square wall rising from the water across a zawn, streaked with vertical cracks.</text>
  <climb grade="18" length="23m" name="Cumquat" number="1316." stars="" id="26" fa="R.McMahon, J.Fisher, Mar 1995."/>
  <climb grade="21" length="23m" name="Slippery Helm" number="1417." stars="" id="27" fa="J.Fisher, R.McMahon, Mar 1995."/>
  <climb grade="18" length="23m" name="Budgie Seed" number="1518." stars="" id="28" fa="R.McMahon, J.Fisher, Mar 1995."/>
  <climb grade="19" length="23m" name="Delta of Venus" number="1619." stars="" id="29" fa="J.Fisher, R.McMahon, Mar 1995."/>
  <text class="heading3" id="30">Sugar Crumb Area</text>
  <text class="Discussion" id="31">The remainder of the climbs are found on the main Cape Tourville walls. Sugar Crumb Arête is the first climb encountered as you move right from Delta of Venus wall.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit""29""0" guide.type="climb" length="100m" name="Sugar Crumb Arête" number="1720." stars="" id="32" fa="Phil Robinson, Glen Kowalik, May 1978.">Turn right off the road 50m before the lighthouse along a clear path through burnt out scrub and down to a clear area on the cliff edge. There is an obvious arête where the cliff makes a right angled bend. Abseil down the big, grey, less steep, southern face for 45m onto a wide sloping ramp. Continue to abseil and scramble carefully down to about 15m above sea-level, where it is possible to walk round to the northern side of the arête until difficulties increase and the climbing starts. 1. 15m. Continue traversing then go up a short corner onto the top of the large prominent rib. 2. 30m. Leftward up the ramp until it meets the arête (a direct start to here seems likely). 3. 35m. Around left up the wall on various cracks then right onto the arête and up a loose section to a large ledge leading off to the right. 4. 15m. A short but spectacular finish. Step directly up and traverse left on delicate holds to a jam crack and then up this to the top.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="33">Clichy Face</text>
  <text class="Discussion" id="34">To the right where a blocky pillar is found on a more compact wall.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit""32""0" guide.type="climb" length="80m" name="Quiet Days in Clichy" number="1821." stars="" id="35" fa="R.McMahon, B.Maddison, 1979.">1. 25m. Traverse across face, heading right to blocky pillar buttressing the lower part of the cliff. An excellent traverse, with a pocket of large quartz crystals half way across. 2. 43m. Through a bit of an overhang and straight up crack on face - steep, strong and exposed. Gain large ledge before last steep face. 3. 12m. Very steep face to finish (crux).</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit""33""0" guide.type="climb" length="65m" name="Rue de Remarque" number="1922." stars="" id="36" fa="J.Fantini, B.Maddison.">The big corner to the right of Quiet Days in Clichy. 1. 45m. Jamming and bridging. 2. 20m. Finishes up steep face to the right of finish for Quiet Days in Clichy on exceedingly temporary rock.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" guide.action="submit""61""0" guide.type="text" id="37">Main Cliff</text>
  <text class="Discussion" id="38">Across the little intervening zawn the main cliff begins.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit""35""0" guide.type="climb" length="70m" name="Giverny" number="2023." stars="" id="39" fa="R.McMahon, Carys Fantini, 1980.">Just left of a very imposing corner (Rue Montparnasse) is a more subtle line on the face. Some good face climbing on the first pitch. The second pitch is virtually the same as for Rue Montparnasse and is rather scrubby, finishing on a steep clean piece of rock.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit""36""0" guide.type="climb" length="70m" name="Rue Montparnasse" number="2124." stars="" id="40" fa="Ben Maddison, Robert McMahon, 1980.">1. The excellent corner. The crux section is a little bit of rounded off-width but is bridgeable. 2. Substandard.</climb>
  <climb grade="18" length="75m" name="Only the Foolish Mourn" number="2225." stars="*" id="41" fa="N.Smith, R.McMahon, May 1981.">Move right from Rue Montparnasse until a gap requiring climbing is reached. Start with a bridging move here and head up and right to a classic corner - hand crack. Follow this to 5m from top where blocky face is climbed.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit""39""0" guide.type="climb" length="90m" name="Cape Crumbles" number="2326." stars="" id="42" fa="D.Stephenson, L.Kriwoken, Feb 1987.">Directly below the lighthouse, just left of the big central zawn. 1. 20m. Climb short corner of easy crack to left. 2. 40m. Up ball-bearing rock of corner crack system above. 3. 30m. Up even baser rock of gully corner above. Disgusting.</climb>
  <climb grade="16" length="20m" name="The Link" number="2427." stars="" id="43" fa="R.McMahon, N.Smith, M.Ling, 1980.">This is the route that traverses right from about 5m up the Rue Montparnasse corner and with a downward move connects with the platform at the foot of the main face.</climb>
  <climb grade="21" length="90m" name="Porpoise" number="2528." stars="" id="44" fa="M.Colyvan, J.Fantini, 1980&apos;ish.">A superb corner. Left of the main overhangs up a scooping corner.</climb>
  <climb grade="22" length="25m" name="Tour de Force" number="2629." stars="" id="45" fa="J.Fisher, R.McMahon, Mar 1995.">Crack at the right of the main platform with a hard start. Up to the roof.</climb>
  <climb grade="18" length="16m" name="Antioch" number="2730." stars="" id="46" fa="R.McMahon, J.Fisher, Mar 1995.">The crack left of Byzantium. Up to the roof.</climb>
  <climb grade="19" length="27m" name="Byzantium" number="2831." stars="*" id="47" fa="R.McMahon, N.Smith, M.Ling, 1980.">From Rue Montparnasse traverse right via The Link onto the main ledge below the main overhangs. Starts towards the left end of the roof. Up the obvious handpockets to finish under the overhangs to the left. Traverse (lead) down left to exit.</climb>
  <climb grade="22" length="30m" name="High Energy Plan" number="2932." stars="" id="48" fa="D.Fife, Phil Steane?">A one pitch route which abseils from under the rooves.</climb>
  <climb grade="18" length="30m" name="Goodbye Tiger" number="3033." stars="" id="49" fa="R.McMahon, N.Smith, 1979.">Right of Byzantium toward the right hand end of the overhangs. Up a series of cracks to the crux, which is really wide bridging between two ribs. Finishes under roofs, abseil off.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit""47""0" guide.type="climb" length="90m" name="Heartbreaker" number="3134." stars="" id="50">Right of Goodbye Tiger. 1. 42m. Rounded crack to the roof. Turn on right, trying not to get lodged into off-width through subsidiary roof. The crack upwards is good, to ledge below big off-width. Traverse left, move up and turn corner right on underclings (hard), up the slab corner, traverse right on slab to belay. 2. 20m. Traverse back left again to corner, up this then belay.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit""48""0" guide.type="climb" length="70m" name="Tour de Farce" number="3235." stars="" id="51" fa="D.Stephenson, S.Bunton, Apr 1988.">Good route, avoids shit rock typical of rest of cliff. Start at the obvious hand-crack on the steep wall left of big corner just left of central zawn. 1. 35m. Climb crack to horizontal break. Avoid continuation in off-width above by stepping left 5m, up overlap, and back right on slab to belay. 2. 25m. Short chimney, above (or shallow corner just to the left, better) to face above climb this to belay on ledge. 3. 10m. Left and up corner to top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit""49""0" guide.type="climb" length="100m" name="La Grande Epoque" number="3336." stars="" id="52" fa="J.Fantini, R.McMahon, Dec 1980?">"Australia's greatest sea-cliff route?" Probably not. Up the recessed, bulging face right of the main face with the roofs. 1. 33m. Up the crack and through the roof. Then crack slants right then traverse right to semi-hanging belay. 2. 27m. This pitch traces a great question mark with the belayer anchored to the cliff as the dot. Straight up - a desperate traverse into crack on right. Up that for about 10m then traverse left into what looks like a cave from the ground. 3. 40m. Straight up or through the rooves to the left (easier).</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit""50""0" guide.type="climb" length="90m" name="Acts of Piracy" number="3437." stars="" id="53" fa="Evelyn Lees, N.Smith, P.Cullen, B.Maddison, Jan 1982.">A terrific route sadly marred by the off-width. At the right hand end of the overhangs. 1. Series of hand-cracks (beautiful pockets mainly) leading to a nasty off-width crux, then belay. 2. Series of flakes leading to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit""51""0" guide.type="climb" length="95m" name="Queen of Swords" number="3538." stars="" id="54" fa="J.Fantini, R.McMahon, Dec 1980?">1. 20m. Easy to bottom of corner. 2. 36m. The corner is an offwidth horror show with some wire protection in thin crack on right. 3. 7m. Very difficult up and left onto ledge to gain belay. 4. 25m. Straight up and long traverse out left. 5. 7m. Nice corner to finish.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit""52""0" guide.type="climb" length="100m" name="Folies Berger" number="3639." stars="" id="55" fa="N.Deka, F.Moon, Dec 1980.">The last continuous line on the right of the cliff. The start is gained by walking north from the lighthouse down to the base of the cliffs, and then south. Start above the chasm by stepping left into the crack. 1. 50m. Step left into the crack, straight up this into a leaning corner and then a short steep crack to belay on a small but comfortable ledge. 2. 30m. Traverse left for 5m then up the face following a thin crack and ledges that come up and to the right and into a swallows nest of crumbling granite. 3. 20m. Straight up unstable ground to finish.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="80m" name="Neptune&apos;s Nightcap" number="3740." stars="" id="56" fa="John Croker, Richard Burek, 8 Jan 1976.">The first route at Cape Tourville. 2 pitches below the lighthouse. Rap down from the lighthouse to a shelf and walk 30-50m left to find the line. Might have been an earlier ascent of one of the other lines.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="58">The Quadrangle and North Tourville</text>
  <climb id="92" stars="" extra="" number="3841." name="Rotten Plumb" length="100m" grade="13" fa="G.Kowalik, C (Basil) Rathbone, 1977.">The second route to be climbed at Cape Tourville. In 1977 Glen and Basil ventured round from the north at sealevel until blocked by the first of about four big zawns. The approach proved to be a pleasant traverse over easy slabs. They climbed a promising line about 50m north of the zawn and started up a ramp on good solid granite. But the second pitch was a nightmare of rotten rock and sand filled cracks.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <image id="89" src="Quadrangle access topo.png" height="338" width="700" legend="true" legendTitle="Quadrangle Access"/>
  <image id="90" src="Quadrangle - View at the descent.jpeg" height="300" width="400" legend="true" legendTitle="View from the descent Cairn"/>
  <image id="91" src="quadrangle - looking down descent.jpeg" height="533" width="400" legend="true" legendTitle="Looking down the descent">
      <rect id="99810" x="184" y="-3" width="67" height="23" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="Down here" arrowDirection="south"/>
  <text class="text" id="59">At the northern end of the main Cape Tourville cliffs is a relatively impassable zawn. The North Tourville area is the area of cliffs and boulders north of this zawn, and is accessed differently to the rest of Cape Tourville cliffs (no abseil required).</text>
  <text class="text" id="60">Access: From the carpark, head clockwise along the tourist circuit until 5m past the first viewing bench, then head northeasterly to the cliff edge along vague paths. Follow cliff edge for about 200m north (it is easiest close to the edge) until a descent (50-100m scramble) may be made down a gully (cairn marks this point). The best descent option can be located by reference to the Nugget islands: at this point, the two southern most Nuggets should no longer be overlapping from your line of perspective (i.e. water should just be visible separating the left end of the southern most island from the right end of the second most southerly island). See picture. The descent zigzags down ramps and ledges heading diagonally south; it is a bit tricky in places, and some parties may wish to fix a short line for abseil or hand over hand for the crux section midway down. When down to the slabs, head south along the base for about 300m until a very big boulder dominates the slab (it is joined to the cliff and is only just passable on the seaward side). The southern face of the boulder is split by a sriking diagonal crack (small roof at about 5m). This face also forms the northern wall of a small amphitheatre, The Quadrangle.</text>
  <image id="94" src="eidolon.jpeg" height="450" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Eidolon"/>
  <climb extra="" grade="25" guide.action="submit""56""0" guide.type="climb" length="14m" name="Eidolon" number="3942." stars="***" id="61" fa="Hamish and Marcel Jackson, 29 Apr 2003">The diagonal crack. What this line lacks in length it makes up for in aesthetics and difficulty. One of the finest lines around. Some steep finger jamming leads to the rooflet followed by pumpy layaways with the crux move reaching the top (a jug). The gear, while very good, was fiddly to place on upper section - so ascent was made with this gear in situ. With the advent of micro-cams this route will be easier to onsight/lead ground up. Number 3 and 4 Friends useful for belay - placements are a few meters back from edge.</climb>
  <image id="93" src="truency.jpg" height="600" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Truency">
      <path id="7783" points="387.0,251.0, 396.0,205.0, 549.0,26.0," d="M387.0,251C390251.0C390.6,232.6 385.04494862244220,220.215349135496982 396.0,205C406205.95505137755780C407.0,189.784650864503028 487.8,97.600000000000026 549.0,26.0"/>
  <climb extra="" grade="25" length="12m" name="Truency" number="4043." stars="***" id="62" fa="Hamish Jackson 29 Apr 2003 (top-rope).  FLA Hamish Feb 2017">The story: Originally written up as a head point project, the FTR ascensionist (Hamish) proved a real truent (13 years). An unknown climber (likely mainlander) meanwhile comes by, ignores the request for a bolt free ascent, and bolts the line, but doesn't glue to last ring bolts and doesn't record an ascent or project status (no tag). They too lapse into truency for some years. Hamish returns (and uses the bolts). &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;The right leading diagnonal line across the back face of the quadrangle (ie faces east). A unique climb: amazing moves through lay aways and finger pockets. All go from the first move to the crux reaching the top of the wall. Grade to be confirmed. 5 bolts, plus single bolt lower off until eye bolts glued in.</climb>
  <text class="text" guide.action="submit""58""0" guide.type="text" id="63">Warning: the big flake system on the main cliff above the Eidolon boulder is steeper than it looks and would actually be half decent if it wasn't made of gravel. It has been climbed, but should not be repeated. H and M Jackson</text>
  <text class="heading2" guide.action="submit""1""0" guide.type="text" id="64">The Nuggets</text>
  <text class="text" guide.action="submit""2""0" guide.type="text" id="65">The quality of rock at Whitewater Wall is paralleled by the granite forming it's eastern cousin, the Nuggets. By virtue of the fact it never rains at Freycinet and that the islands are exposed directly to the mighty Tasman, conflicting forms of weather frequently occur. One day it can be the tranquil Greek Islands of the Mediterranean, and the next blasted by winds as if off the Southern coast of Argentina. The only exploring to date seems to have focussed upon the second, innermost island, with the characteristic split on the northern side, which is surrounded by cliffs. Access is by small boat or by kayak (it is too far to swim and the current is fierce) and the split creates a good sheltered cove. It is easy to clamber up to the base ledge from a kayak exit if the swell is low enough. Day trips are feasible, but remember that you may be forced to spend some time there if the weather closes in and the wind and waves are too scary. There is no water on the island, and all solid waste should be removed. Please be careful when walking on the fragile vegetation and among nesting sea birds - tread lightly, walk quietly. There are a number of good walls for climbing which have been named for ease of communication.</text>
  <text class="heading3" guide.action="submit""117""0" guide.type="text" id="66">Base Ledge</text>
  <text class="text" guide.action="submit""118""0" guide.type="text" id="67">This sheltered ledge on the main part of the island is half way up from the sea. It is a good access for kayaks being in the cove created by the Citadel that is visible from WWW.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" guide.action="submit""119""0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Amphibolite the Titanium Newt" number="4144." stars="" id="68" fa="M. Thomas, 1995">The big crack in the corner at the base of the ledge. Follow the crack and then go directly to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="11" guide.action="submit""6""0" guide.type="climb" length="13m" name="Crystallography" number="4245." stars="" id="69" fa="T. Jones, 1995.">The best reason for doing this climb is to see the quartz vein containing smoky quartz crystals. Much of the rock is of poor quality. Climb the large chimney to the L of ATTN, up the face past the quartz in the RH corner of the chimney, continuing past loose boulders on both sides... hmmm.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" guide.action="submit""133""0" guide.type="text" id="70">South East Wall</text>
  <text class="text" guide.action="submit""134""0" guide.type="text" id="71">This wall is on the back of the Citadel and is easy to get to from Base Ledge. Pass around via the Wonderland then over a fat chockstone to the Citadel. From here go south to a sloping ramp where the waves can crash in violently.....</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit""9""0" guide.type="climb" length="27m" name="King Canute Drives Back the Sea" number="4346." stars="" id="72" fa="M. Thomas, 1995.">A classic and varied climb on the south east face of the Citadel. Walk down the sloping ramp around from the chockstone until a sloping crack in a corner is visible. Climb this well-protected crack using the face to a sloping ledge. Up the obvious cracks towards a short off-width vee crack.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" guide.action="submit""126""0" guide.type="text" id="73">The Wonderland and Boulderfield Gulch</text>
  <text class="text" guide.action="submit""127""0" guide.type="text" id="74">Simply traverse south from Base Ledge round a thin ledge. To access the gulch, jump onto a boulder at the chockstone or lower down if conditions are wet.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit""128""0" guide.type="climb" length="23m" name="Ki" number="4447." stars="" id="75" fa="T. Jones, 1995.">A great, well-protected climb from the base of the boulder field to the L of the obvious crack-chimney (Crab in the Cracks). Climb up dark rocks to the parallel cracks. Ascend to a ledge on the RH side, then follow the crack and finger pockets until they terminate. Step out L and follow the short crack to a larger ledge. Walk R then climb the last two easy metres to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" guide.action="submit""129""0" guide.type="climb" length="12m" name="Mustn&apos;t be Late" number="4548." stars="" id="76" fa="M. Thomas, 1995.">Start to the L of the gully opposite a skull-like rock on the plateform that is level with Base ledge right next to Ki. Go to easy way up a big friendly crack at the R of a block with a rounded corner to a big ledge that runs smoothly up to the plateau. Continue up to a second ledge in a similar fashion then step out R around a boulder at the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="" guide.action="submit""130""0" guide.type="climb" length="" name="Crabs in the Crack" number="4649." stars="" id="77" fa="T. Jones, 1995.">Disappointing. Follows the obvoius gully up from the the boulder field gulch. Not recommended.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" guide.action="submit""131""0" guide.type="text" id="78">The Playground</text>
  <text class="text" guide.action="submit""132""0" guide.type="text" id="79">This microcosm is on the eastern side of the Citadel and is only visible from the other islands or out at sea. A wall on the southern side boasts a large curving crack which meets a vertical crack to form a classic teardrop shape. Further north there is a bulge of granite that creates a big overhang.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit""76""0" guide.type="climb" length="18m" name="Hmmmm?" number="4750." stars="" id="80" fa="T. Jones, 1995.">This climb starts off promising and becomes a loose bunch of face choss. Begin just to the L of the overhung section and tend to the L. At the ledge just below the top, go straight up along the manky crystalloid face.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" guide.action="submit""134""0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Paisley with Stripes" number="4851." stars="***" id="81" fa="M. Thomas 1995.">Excellent. The climb goes up the R side of the big teardrop in the obvious very vertical crack. Climb up to the crack junction then step out along the horizontal crack around the arete. Ascend on a "non-steep" face, with a small, fairly unprotected but easy crack just around the corner.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" guide.action="submit""135""0" guide.type="text" id="82">The Leaning Siege</text>
  <text class="text" guide.action="submit""136""0" guide.type="text" id="83">This impressive piece of granite protrudes from the sea on the south side of the mainland. A small ledge can be easily down-climbed to in order to access further descent possibilities. On the eastern side, a convenient ledge is simple to abseil to in order to access climbs on that side.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" guide.action="submit""137""0" guide.type="climb" length="24m" name="Decerebrate Rigidity" number="4952." stars="" id="84" fa="M. Thomas, 1995.">Access - abseil down to the ledge above the half-submerged weed covered ramp/foaming pit of death on the eastern side of the Leaning Siege. Traverse to directly below the the precarious finger and chockstone at the top. Ascend directly to the R side of the finger, using multiple smooth holds. Lastly, tend to the R on a slightly overhung face. To exit, use the Ferrest traverse.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit""138""0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Guanocerous" number="5053." stars="*" id="85" fa="T. Jones, 1995.">Access as for DR. Traverse only about 6 m to a triangular rock. Follow the crack here on the face using the flaring crack. Follow the crack to an obvious narrowing. Slime through this crux to a ledge on the R. Go straight up to a notch and continue R up poorly protected rock to the narrow backbone of the Leaning Siege. Exit via the Ferrest traverse. N.B. A very small wire and large sling were very useful for the last part.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" guide.action="submit""139""0" guide.type="text" id="86">Umbrella Wall</text>
  <text class="text" guide.action="submit""140""0" guide.type="text" id="87">On the western side of the island is a long wall that can be accessed from the top without ropes.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="8" guide.action="submit""86""0" guide.type="climb" length="16m" name="Mike&apos;s Umbrella" number="5154." stars="" id="88" fa="T. Jones and M. Thomas, solo, 1995.">An arbitary route following the driest and least chossy line up the northern side of the Umbrella Wall.</climb>