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Comment: Guide edited
<guide version="2" pagesize="500" guidestars="*">
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  <header id="1" walk="25 min steep uphill" sun="Morning &amp; midday sun" rock="Dolerite buttresses from 80º to vertical" name="Lowdina" intro="Only a short drive from Hobart, Lowdina is a great crag which has much to offer the trad-climber - predominantly during the cold winter months as it is usually dry and warm here.  The rock quality is generally very good and the crag provides a wide-selection of interesting, demanding and worthwhile routes, each with their own unique flavour.  Of note, are the number of quality well-protected trad routes (mostly grade 20 and below), bold face climbs, and several test-pieces (including Australia’s first grade 23).&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Climbs are listed in the guide from climbers left to right.  Please leave any stashed bags/ropes alone as they are for cliff-work." history="Peter Jackson discovered the cliff around 1968 putting up the first routes with Rob McMahon, Michael McHugh, John Moore and Mendelt Tillema. Peter also published the 1st guide in the early 1970s with about 30 routes containing his signature sketches (for history buffs: you can access the original copy of this in the State Library Reading Room). Between the late eighties and early nineties activity at Lowdina was intense. Most of the harder routes were done during this period, many of them by Evan Peacock, Garn Cooper and Al Adams. Martin Stone updated the original guide in the mid-eighties but it soon became outdated. Evan Peacock and Colin Reed published a further update in 1992, before the cliff was closed to climbing for many years due to litigation concerns by previous landowners.  Around 2007, the cliff became open to climbing again.  However, many of the routes had become overgrown during the time of closure and the cliff languished into relative obscurity.  During winter 2021, the crag sparked the interest of a few dedicated climbers, signifying the start of a modern revival.  Recognising the value of the cliff for winter trad-climbing, work began on some serious route cleaning and the installation of numerous lower-offs, giving the crag a much needed face-lift.  The guide has also been significantly updated to reflect these changes, including the addition of photos to assist in locating the climbs and revised route descriptions.  The cliff now provides an excellent option for trad-climbers, with improved route access and descent." guide.type="header""0""0" guide.action="submit" acknowledgement="Originally published in Craglets by Evan Peacock.  Guide update and crag revival undertaken primarily by Hamish Jackson, Christoph Speer and Martin Brown, with help from friends and the CCT." access="Special provisions are required to visit this cliff - the following advice has been updated June 2021 after conversations with the landowners. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;The cliff lies on private land, and the owner, N and R Bevan are happy for people to climb here as long as the following process in adhered to.  Contact the Bevans at least a a few hours prior to your trip: texting is preferred on 0418 604 286, but you can also call them on their mobile, or land line 6260 4286. They are very friendly people (if you climb here regularly - please consider dropping in a bottle of wine to show your appreciation for ongoing access). In the text msg you send  include who is visiting, when, and in what car, and finally reassure them that you will drop off the printed waiver form on the way through (a pdf version is loaded at the bottom of this guide - print this out and fill in the details in clear handwriting).  A new signed waiver is required for each visit to the cliff.  Please take caution to not damage any of the fences as you traverse the fields, and stay to the track to prevent erosion.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Drive from Richmond and through Campania towards Colebrook. About 4.2km from the Campania Pub and 150m before the turnoff to Lowdina Rd, check into &quot;Westfield&quot; a driveway to a property on the left hand side and place the complete waiver form underneath the front doormat.  Then exit Westfield -  turn back onto the main road - and then turn left again into Lowdina Road. Follow the gravel road, parking at the railway line.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Walk to the LHS of the old house above the railway-line to locate a stile and some pink-tape on the fence, cross the fence here above the train tracks and start walking towards the cliff, keeping just left of the fence-line.  Pass an old gate and head-up over a short hill, cross the field past some boulders and look for some more pink tape on a fence at the base of the hill.  Keep following the pink-taped track up the steep hill to arrive at the Bismark Buttress.  If it has been wet recently, the hill can get very slippery - hiking boots are recommended over approach shoes in these instances.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Once at the base of the Bismark Buttress, follow the orange-taped track along the base of the cliff-line for the path of least resistance when moving between buttresses." camping="There is basic camping at Colebrook Park near the Craigbourne dam (10 mins NW of Lowdina), and Campania Flour Mill Campground 10 mins SE of Lowdina. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Please DO NOT camp on the Lowdina property itself." autonumber="true"/>
  <text id="352" class="heading2">Gear and Grades</text>
  <text id="353" class="text">A single rack of nuts and a double rack of cams from BD #0.3 to #3 will suffice for most climbs, with a #4 and #5 being useful at times. A 60 m single-rope will cover all of the routes. Be sure to take RPs and micro-cams with you, as they are particularly useful at this crag.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;You might find the grading a bit stiff here, as the original guide's grades have been retained. Danger ratings (R and X) have been added where appropriate to warn of any particularly bold routes, though it is strongly recommended you analyse the route descriptions carefully before setting-off on your next epic.</text>
  <text id="349" class="heading2">Bolts</text>
  <text id="350" class="text">There are still many carrot bolts here, so bring plates if climbing these routes. Many of the old carrots seem to be in very good condition, and limited load testing of a few bolts (7KN outwards for 5 mins) has confirmed this. However, not all carrots have been tested, so more caution should be exercised than when falling on bolts at Sand River. The carrots are slowly being replaced as the crag gains more recent popularity. Some old pitons are also still in-situ - back these up where possible. Inspection of all fixed gear should be made - you are in charge of your safety.</text>
  <text id="357" class="heading2">Quality</text>
  <text id="358" class="text">Most of the popular routes have now been repeated and cleaned since the cliffs revival in 2021. Many of the routes here likely hadn't had a repeat ascent for close to 30 years - and as such, some routes have gained or lost stars depending on various factors. Editor's notes have been made in some of the route descriptions to advise of any cleaning still required (get your brushes out!). As such, the star ratings you see in this guide will be pretty accurate to the current quality of the route.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;*** - A classic. Worth visiting the crag just to do these routes.&lt;br/&gt;** - A very good route. Hunt these out.&lt;br/&gt;* - A good route that's worth doing for sure.</text>
  <text id="354" class="heading2">Birds &amp; Ethics</text>
  <text id="355" class="text">Much time, effort and money has gone into rejuvenating this crag for winter trad-climbing options close to Hobart. Please respect the land-owners wishes regarding access, remember that you are on private land and act accordingly. Please top-rope anchors through your own gear to avoid premature wear.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;There is very limited potential for sport climbing development here and the ethic at this crag remains traditional - natural protection is used where-ever possible (down to #2 RP placements), even if the majority of a climb is bolted. A number of new climbs have been added since the cliffs resurgence in popularity in 2021. However, focus has remained on ensuring existing climbs are not impinged upon, ensuring any newly placed bolts are well away from existing lines (further away than has been observed on the organ pipes for example).&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;There are a number of known Peregrine Falcon's that nest around the cliff (behind Bismark Buttress) as well as Wedge-Tail Eagles that nest on top of the hill. It's common to see these awesome birds flying around here on any given day. If you start hearing a lot of squawking and/or start getting swooped, please climb elsewhere on the cliff to avoid disturbing the birds during their nesting season (usually between July - December).</text>
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  <text class="heading3" id="157">Scharnhorst Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="3">Scharnhorst Buttress is at the far left hand end of the crag immediately before the the hillside turns to the south and into a gully. Beyond the gully the cliff-line peters out. Approaching from the right, the buttress is about 80m left of a narrow scree slope.</text>
  <climb id="4" name="Scharnhorst" fa="Karl Prinz, Kevin Kiernan, Mary McWhirther, Feb 1975." stars="" number="1." length="15m" grade="12" extra="">Scharnhorst is the furthest left hand climb on the crag. The route climbs a groove, that continues up a contoured crack through a small roof. It roughly finishes up the nose of the buttress. Avoid the loose slabs on the left near the top.</climb>
  <climb id="5" name="Blackheads and Beauty Spots" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Tim Olding, Aug 1988." stars="" number="2." length="15m" grade="16" extra="">Start in the alcove 6m right of Scharnhorst, off the top of the pillar. Step across and up to the ledge below the flake. Go up the right hand crack, then move left and up past the right hand edge of the flake, finishing up the crack. RPs and microcams useful.</climb>
  <climb id="6" name="Drugs on Sunday" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Aug 1988." stars="" number="3." length="12m" grade="16" extra="">Start 8m right of Scharnhorst on the ledge below the brushed slab. Step up for the slope above, continue up to the next sloping ledge, then up the flake to the top. RPs and microcams useful.</climb>
  <climb id="7" name="Better Get A Bucket" fa="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Nov 1991." stars="*" number="4." length="18m" grade="24 X" extra="">Bold face climbing with a technical finish. Start immediately left of The Spastic Acrobat on the left hand side of the arête. Climb to the horizontal at 3m (and place gear!) then launch for the bolt (hoping your belayer jumps downhill if you fall off clipping). Finish through the small roof on the left. RPs and microcams useful.</climb>
  <climb id="8" name="The Spastic Acrobat" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Aug 1988." stars="**" number="5." length="15m" grade="20" extra="">About 20m right of Scharnhorst; or 50m left and 30m downhill from Punks and Lepers. Look for a smooth, grey face split by a horizontal break near the top. Start just right of the obvious crack, and go straight up the face on RPs to a small ledge. Continue up on small holds and layaways (more RPs) to the horizontal, then crank through to the finger crack (lichenous) and the top.</climb>
  <climb id="9" name="Seagull" fa="Mary McWhirther, Kevin Kiernan, Karl Prinz, Feb 1975." stars="" number="6." length="15m" grade="10" extra="">An isolated pinnacle lies between Vulpecula and Scharnhorst buttresses. Climb the crack that forms a sweeping s-curve up the right hand side of the buttress.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="158">Vulpecula / Punks and Lepers Buttress</text>
  <text id="198" class="text">The following buttresses are located about 20m left of the narrow scree slope.</text>
  <image id="341" src="vp3.jpg" height="575" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Vulpecula / Punks and Lepers Buttress">
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      <path id="54382" points="772.0,355.0, 741.0,316.0, 715.0,295.0, 698.0,275.0, 682.0,206.0, 650.0,136.0," d="M772.0,355.0C759.6,339.4 750.2,325.7 741.0,316.0C731.8,306.3 722.6,302.2 715.0,295.0C707.4,287.8 701.7,284.8 698.0,275.0C694.3,265.2 691.2,232.8 682.0,206.0C672.8,179.2 662.8,164.0 650.0,136.0" linkedTo="389"/>
  <climb id="10" name="Vulpecula" guide.type="climb""0""9" guide.action="submit" fa="Kevin Kiernan, Karl Prinz, Mary McWhirther,Feb 1975." stars="" number="7." length="30m" grade="11" extra="">From the base of the buttress, climb the nose past loose flakes to a broad ledge. Scramble on up the blocky ledges, then finish up the obvious slab on the left hand side.</climb>
  <climb id="343" stars="*" extra="" number="8." name="Conjunctivitis" length="24m" grade="16" fa="Henry Garratt, Nov 2021">A short masochistic variant to Psoriasis. Take the off-width crack about 3 m left of the start of Psoriasis, trending right into the hand crack when this ends. Move right after this finishes and continue up Psoriasis to the DBB. Take a BD 5.</climb>
  <climb id="342" stars="**" extra="" number="9." name="Psoriasis" length="22m" grade="17" fa="Christoph Speer, Mark Passier, Henry Garratt, Nov 2021">Tape-up or risk a blood transfusion! Follows the crack-line left of Punks and Lepers. Climb the groove to the small ledge, then jam steeply through the abrasive hand-crack to a jug. Mount this to a rest, then trend right onto the exposed face and follow the crack above (the blocks to the left are safely keyed-in). Finish up at DBB above Punks and Lepers. Well-protected.</climb>
  <climb id="11" name="Punks and Lepers" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Nov 1988." stars="***" number="10." length="22m" grade="22 R" extra="">One of the outstanding and more challenging examples of the classic Lowdina face climbing style: great rock, great moves, on spaced but good RPs. Climb to the break, then up the face to a flared crack (RP placements appear 3.5m above the horizontal break), then up the crack to the top. One set of RPs #2-5 essential, doubles of size 2 and 3 serves well. With nesting of RPs at the crux, and an attentive belayer while the nest of RPs goes in, the climb can be on-sighted fairly 'safely' (despite appearances).</climb>
  <climb id="290" stars="**" extra="" number="11." name="Scaredy Cat" length="22m" grade="21" fa="Martin Brown, Hamish Jackson, Aug 2021">Hard for the grade and a serious undertaking, Martin showed considerable reluctance before deciding to lead this. The crack-line right of Punks and Lepers is a fine companion-route. Climb easily up the lower crack to the top of the pedestal; then climb up the thin continuation crack. Finish up the short corner above to the anchors on P &amp; L. Small cams and RPs provide adequate protection at the crux - brass offsets are handy but not essential.</climb>
  <climb id="344" stars="" extra="" number="12." name="Nerve Block" length="10m" grade="14" fa="Fraser L-R, Sammi Dos, Nov 2021">Take the hand crack past the block (it's in there) and follow it past a tricky move to a bollard belay. Walk-off down rocky gully behind the route.</climb>
  <climb id="345" stars="" extra="" number="13." name="Pocket Rocket" length="12m" grade="15" fa="Sammi Dos, Fraser L-R , Nov 2021">Start-up the hand-crack to the block, traverse right and then follow the thin crack and face with all the confidence of RPs and microcams, to a bollard belay out left at the top.</climb>
  <climb id="389" stars="" extra="" number="14." name="Dysmorphia" length="9m" grade="16" fa="Presumed to be Dave James and Tim Whelan. June 2021">To the right of and uphill from Nerve Block. Up slab from tiny gully then moving left to gain crack. Better than it looks...</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="159">Anzac Day Buttress</text>
  <text id="199" class="text">The Anzac Day Buttresses are the two distinct buttresses located just before you hit the rock-scree slope if approaching from the right. There is a DBB lower-off at the top of Anzac Day.</text>
  <image id="371" src="Anzac Day.jpg" height="600" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Anzac Day Buttress" legendx="16" legendy="14">
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  <climb id="12" name="Torque Arm" fa="Dave Humphries, John Buttery, Jul 1984." stars="" number="15." length="15m" grade="16" extra="">This route climbs the wall which forms the left hand side of the Ape chimney. Gain the corner-groove just off the ground and climb up it, passing right of the small roof. Cross left into the groove and climb this until able to move right into the crack and to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="13" name="Ape" fa="Chris Viney, Brendan Moore, Apr 1972." stars="" number="16." length="20m" grade="10" extra="">Located 7m left of Anzac Day on a small buttress topped by a prominent 4m flake. Climb the narrow flaring chimney immediately to its left.</climb>
  <climb id="399" stars="" extra="" number="17." name="Dia De Los Muertos" length="20m" grade="16" fa="Jeroen Jansen, Vanessa Tonet, Aug 2022">Climb the gaping off-width left of NAIDOC Week. Big gear is useful but not necessary.</climb>
  <climb id="396" stars="*" extra="" number="18." name="Tongerlongeter Day" length="20m" grade="19 R" fa="Jeroen Jansen, Jai Friend, August 2022">A serious undertaking. Named after an Indigenous war hero. Climb the arete left of the slab to a cam placement at 5 m (no gear prior). Continue through the corner below the roof, then go left through the roof to navigate loose blocks above, finishing up the left wall to DBB above Anzac Day.</climb>
  <climb id="14" name="Anzac Day" fa="Dave Humphries, John Buttery, Jul 1984." stars="**" number="19." length="20m" grade="18" extra="">Has seen off more campaigns than Gallipoli. Start at the base of the slab and climb this with the aid of the crack on the right. Hand traverse left under the first roof, to reach the crack below the second roof. Up the crack and pass the second roof on the right, then climb the wall and cracks above taking care with a suspect flake (small wires come in handy). DBB lower-off at top.</climb>
  <climb id="15" name="Lejand" guide.type="climb""0""14" guide.action="submit" fa="Jeremy Rackham, Anna Hasan, Apr 1992." stars="" number="20." length="12m" grade="15" extra="">We are all striving to be one, aren't we? Start below the roof 2m right of Anzac Day and climb the arête and crack above to a large ledge. Move left to regain the arête, then up the right hand side of the wall to the top and DBB. Careful of loose rock.</climb>
  <text id="244" class="heading3">Mick Goes to Moonah Area</text>
  <text id="233" class="text">The next set of climbs are located in a small amphitheatre above the Anzac Day Buttress to climbers right. Head up the short gully from the track, just before you get to the Anzac Day Buttresses. There are DBB lower-offs on each buttress for easy descent.</text>
  <image id="265" src="chook feve.jpg" height="933" width="700" legend="true" legendTitle="Mick Goes to Moonah Buttress">
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  <climb id="16" name="Mick Goes to Moonah" fa="Dave Humphries, John Buttery, Jul 1984." stars="**" number="21." length="15m" grade="18" extra="">Thought-provoking and delicate. Follows the groove up the nose of the buttress. Start off the large ledge and climb-up to a stance below a groove. Place some inspiring RPs and climb thoughtfully through the groove, continuing to ease your growing anxiety with small cams and wires until you reach the horizontal break. Continue more easily to the top and DBB lower-off.</climb>
  <climb id="17" name="Chook Fever" fa="Dave Humphries, John Buttery, Jul 1984." stars="**" number="22." length="15m" grade="17" extra="">Fist jammers apply within - add a grade if you have small hands! Follows the enticing clean crack-line up yellowish rock, on right hand side of the buttress. Awkwardly jam through the bulge, then continue jamming to the ledge at half height. Continue up the fist crack on the right for 3 m to another ledge. Then traverse left and up around the arete from here to the DBB lower-off.</climb>
  <climb id="18" name="Miss Right Body" guide.type="climb""0""17" guide.action="submit" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Nic Deka, May 1986." stars="*" number="23." length="20m" grade="16" extra="">Worth a sneaky look. Start about 3m right of Chook Fever and climb the face, finishing up the fist crack.</climb>
  <climb id="398" stars="" extra="" number="24." name="Jairoen" length="20m" grade="15" fa="Jeroen Jansen, Jai Friend, August 2022">Starting from Boys in Bikinis, follow the crack system up and to the left, either finishing up the off-width or traversing left across the chimney and up the short finger crack to join Chook Fever (recommended). Walk-off or traverse to anchors above Mick Goes to Moonah.</climb>
  <image id="372" src="Boys in Bikinis.jpg" height="933" width="700" legend="true" legendTitle="Boys in Bikinis Buttress">
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      <path id="74446" points="465.0,849.0, 438.0,567.0, 434.0,369.0, 448.0,231.0, 447.0,143.0, 409.0,102.0," d="M465.0,849.0C454.2,736.2 443.1,646.1 438.0,567.0C432.9,487.9 432.3,424.5 434.0,369.0C435.7,313.5 446.0,266.1 448.0,231.0C450.0,195.9 453.5,164.4 447.0,143.0C440.5,121.6 425.3,117.4 409.0,102.0" linkedTo="20"/>
      <path id="2438" points="532.0,799.0, 514.0,526.0, 511.0,374.0, 507.0,246.0, 493.0,187.0, 462.0,146.0, 410.0,102.0," d="M532.0,799.0C524.8,689.8 517.0,586.7 514.0,526.0C511.0,465.3 512.3,425.2 511.0,374.0C509.7,322.8 509.3,270.1 507.0,246.0C504.7,221.9 501.4,205.7 493.0,187.0C484.6,168.3 476.4,160.7 462.0,146.0C447.6,131.3 426.3,117.4 410.0,102.0" linkedTo="21"/>
  <climb id="19" name="Boys in Bikinis" guide.type="climb""0""18" guide.action="submit" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Jun 1988." stars="*" number="25." length="15m" grade="18 R" extra="">The climbing is about as bold as the name would suggest! Start in the corner left of the roof and bridge your way up past an interesting cam placement and an RP, until you can layback the flakes on the LHS of the buttress proper. Trend right with difficulty (crux) and try not to fall into the tree as you clip the fixed pin above the roof (still there in 2022 - holds body weight). Continue up the nose of the buttress past some better gear, until you're forced to run it out for 4m at the top. DBB lower-off.</climb>
  <climb id="20" name="What Bunny Likes Best" fa="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, May 1992." stars="" number="26." length="15m" grade="22" extra="1Þ">The face between Boys in Bikinis and Jot Jot Splat. Climb up past an ancient FH and several wires (crack needs a brush) to DBB lower-off. Somewhat contrived trying to stay out of Jot Jot Splat.</climb>
  <climb id="21" name="Jot Jot Splat" fa="Evan Peacock, May 1990." stars="*" number="27." length="15m" grade="15" extra="">The corner crack which widens from hands through to off-width at the top. Jam and bridge your way to the top. DBB lower-off.</climb>
  <image id="267" src="casuarinacrack1.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Casuarina Crack">
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  <climb id="246" stars="*" extra="" number="28." name="Casuarina Crack" length="20m" grade="1213" fa="Christoph Speer, Martin Brown, July 2021">A fantastic climb for a beginner trad leader. Located between Jot Jot Splat and the top of the Tormentil Buttress on the same contour, is an obvious hand crack to the right of a large She-oak tree. Follow the well protected crack and rap-off trees at top. Alternatively, you can walk down the 'pleasure gully' to the left.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="160">Finn Buttress</text>
  <text id="202" class="text">Finn is located on a separate buttress of its own about 25m left of Tormentil Buttress. The buttress has a series of blocky towers as prominent features.</text>
  <climb id="22" name="Finn" fa="Robert McMahon, Peter Jackson, Chris Viney, 1969." stars="" length="25m" grade="8" extra="" number="29.">From the block at the base of buttress, follow the weakness straight up the nose which steepens at the top. About as loose as it looks!</climb>
  <text id="201" class="heading3">Tormentil Buttress</text>
  <text id="203" class="text">Tormentil Buttress is located in a small amphitheatre once you pass the delinquents area. There is a DBB / Rap Station at the top of Tormentil and Tim's Excuses. From above Tormentil you can take a short track to climbers left to get to Casuarina Crack and the base of Mick goes to Moonah Buttress.</text>
  <image id="236" src="Tormentil.jpg" height="600" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Tormentil Buttress">
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      <path id="46238" points="239.0,470.0, 269.0,382.0, 293.0,313.0, 318.0,255.0, 342.0,217.0, 366.0,202.0," d="M239.0,470.0C251.0,434.8 259.5,409.6 269.0,382.0C278.5,354.4 283.9,336.6 293.0,313.0C302.1,289.4 309.8,271.0 318.0,255.0C326.2,239.0 334.4,225.4 342.0,217.0C349.6,208.6 359.5,211.3 366.0,202.0" linkedTo="26"/>
      <path id="77763" points="72.0,533.0, 105.0,453.0, 137.0,389.0, 172.0,342.0, 199.0,306.0, 231.0,241.0, 250.0,199.0, 259.0,176.0, 273.0,149.0," d="M72.0,533.0C85.2,501.0 93.2,479.1 105.0,453.0C116.8,426.9 124.9,409.1 137.0,389.0C149.1,368.9 161.2,356.4 172.0,342.0C182.8,327.6 189.9,321.5 199.0,306.0C208.1,290.5 223.1,257.6 231.0,241.0C238.9,224.4 246.1,208.1 250.0,199.0C253.9,189.9 254.9,185.0 259.0,176.0C263.1,167.0 264.1,157.3 273.0,149.0" linkedTo="24"/>
      <path id="5367" points="160.0,460.0, 251.0,293.0, 288.0,219.0, 322.0,192.0,belay" d="M160.0,460.0C196.4,393.2 235.5,322.2 251.0,293.0C266.5,263.8 278.0,233.2 288.0,219.0C298.0,204.8 308.4,202.8 322.0,192.0" linkedTo="25" lineStyle="dotted"/>
  <climb id="23" name="Bumbly" fa="Peter Jackson, Lyle Closs, May 1971." stars="*" number="30." length="25m" grade="10" extra="">Go left around the base of the buttress and uphill to where an obvious ledge leads back right towards the nose. Follow the ledge then climb the crack to the ledge above Cromlech. Finish up the broken crack above, or via the nose on the left.</climb>
  <climb id="24" name="Tim&apos;s Excuses" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Sep 1991." stars="*" number="31." length="25m" grade="19" extra="">Takes the thin line just left of the chimney (Cromlech). Surmount the lego at the base and follow the thin, well-protected crack to the top and DBB belay. The crux moves are a little contrived.</climb>
  <climb id="25" name="Cromlech" fa="Robert McMahon, Peter Jackson, Chris Viney, 1969." length="18m" grade="13" extra="" number="32." stars="">The chimney a few metres to the left of Tormentil. Climb the chimney which is loose at first and awkward in spots (sounds delightful).</climb>
  <climb id="26" name="Tormentil" guide.type="climb""0""25" guide.action="submit" fa="Peter Jackson, Robert McMahon, Chris Viney, 1969." stars="*" number="33." length="15m" grade="9" extra="">Quite good - one of the original routes here. Climb the smooth curving right-facing corner crack, located just to the right of the base of the buttress. Despite looks you don't need off-width gear.</climb>
  <climb id="27" name="Humber" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Sep 1991." stars="" number="34." length="15m" grade="15 R" extra="">Climb the face 1m right of Tormentil. The key runner placement requires some thought but is bomber. The rest is about as unprotected as it looks.</climb>
  <climb id="28" name="Garage Sale" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Sep 1991." stars="" number="35." length="12m" grade="17" extra="">Start about 15m right of Humber on a slab, just past a roof-capped mini-buttress. Climb the left hand of the two lines, finishing up the hand crack.</climb>
  <climb id="29" name="Little Black Balls" fa="Colin Reed, Evan Peacock, Sep 1991." stars="" number="36." length="12m" grade="11" extra="">Seldom climbed. Takes the line just right of Garage Sale. Poor gear off the ground.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="161">Delinquents Area</text>
  <text id="277" class="text">Find this area by spotting two very prominent, large buttresses located just uphill as you come past the Oisin buttress from the right.</text>
  <climb id="30" name="Maggot On A Brick" fa="Garn Cooper, Richard Bottomley, Lucas Bottomley, Anna Hasan, May 1991." stars="*" number="37." length="8m" grade="22" extra="2 Carrot Bolts">The short sheltered face about 30m L of Daytime Delinquents just above The Naughty Bottom Burp. The climb has 2 carrot bolts and three cruxes that get progressively easier.</climb>
  <climb id="31" name="The Naughty Bottom Burp" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Roger Parkyn, Jun 1990." stars="" number="38." length="12m" grade="20" extra="">Start about 20m L of Rogering the Rock on a small separate buttress with a clean face line and chockstone filled chimney on the R at a sag bush. Climb up to the ledge on the LH side and a #2RP, then continue back R to the horizontal break. Climb up the sloping ledge and a knifeblade runner, then up to the top, trying not to rain loose blocks onto your belayer.</climb>
  <image id="327" src="R Rock App.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Delinquents Buttress">
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  <climb id="32" name="Rogering the Rock" fa="Roger Parkyn, Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Jun 1990." stars="*" number="39." length="20m" grade="20" extra="1 Carrot Bolt">The result of some rather vigorous cleaning techniques... Start immediately left of Daytime Delinquents on a wide angles orange corner below a roof. Climb the corner past a BR (carrot - in good condition) on the R, then trend left to a large ledge before finishing up the arête and over to DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="33" name="Daytime Delinquents" guide.type="climb""0""32" guide.action="submit" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Dec 1984." stars="**" number="40." length="14m" grade="17" extra="">Spooky. Follow the crack to the roof (careful of the hollow flake), through it tentatively, and then up the easier right-hand crack-line (small wires and cams) to a DBB lower-off.</climb>
  <image id="328" src="Squeaky App.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Squeaky Feet Wall">
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      <path id="33569" points="473.0,748.0, 440.0,611.0, 432.0,509.0, 418.0,445.0, 413.0,386.0, 403.0,339.0, 378.0,247.0, 357.0,198.0,lower-right" d="M473.0,748.0C459.8,693.2 446.9,651.3 440.0,611.0C433.1,570.7 435.4,535.0 432.0,509.0C428.6,483.0 421.6,468.4 418.0,445.0C414.4,421.6 415.7,405.0 413.0,386.0C410.3,367.0 407.7,357.6 403.0,339.0C398.3,320.4 384.6,267.3 378.0,247.0C371.4,226.7 365.4,217.6 357.0,198.0" linkedTo="35" lineStyle="dotted"/>
  <climb id="34" name="Little Squeaky Feet" fa="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Al Adams, Colin Reed, Dec 1991." stars="**" number="41." length="22m" grade="23" extra="">Start uphill on the LHS of the Something Scurrilous Buttress, locating a leftward trending RP crack-line on the south face (the first RP is placed off the tree branch!). Follow the seam up the overhanging wall, past the infamous camelot placement and a couple more 'interesting' pieces to DBB lower-off. Even with the dodgy #1 camalot, this is one of the more serious leads amongst many at Lowdina. Small offset Aliens are useful. A good line, but is slightly marred by a step left into the gully/crack that is all too tempting during the desperate crux section at half height.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <image id="329" src="Scurrilous App.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Something Scurrilous Buttress">
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      <path id="74139" points="433.0,731.0, 404.0,579.0, 382.0,425.0, 361.0,350.0, 347.0,297.0, 358.0,265.0, 351.0,234.0, 325.0,174.0, 269.0,122.0," d="M433.0,731.0C421.4,670.2 414.2,640.1 404.0,579.0C393.8,517.9 387.7,455.6 382.0,425.0C376.3,394.4 366.8,371.2 361.0,350.0C355.2,328.8 347.5,310.5 347.0,297.0C346.5,283.5 357.2,277.7 358.0,265.0C358.8,252.3 355.3,246.0 351.0,234.0C346.7,222.0 340.5,195.1 325.0,174.0C309.5,152.9 291.4,142.8 269.0,122.0" linkedTo="36"/>
  <climb id="35" name="Something Scurrilous" guide.type="climb""0""34" guide.action="submit" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Jun 1990." stars="***" number="42." length="25m" grade="19" extra="1Þ">A colourful, well-protected Lowdina classic. Climb the left side of the face behind the tree to a ledge at 4m. Continue up the central crack and bulge to a stance and fixed hanger (replaced in 2021). Climb the shallow groove to the handcrack (crux) to gain a ledge. Hand traverse under the large block out right (keyed-in but be careful) then mantle awkwardly to gain its top. Finish up the thin crack to the top of the pinnacle and DBB lower-off.</climb>
  <climb id="36" name="Mega Smegma" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Roger Parkyn, Jun 1990." stars="" number="43." length="25m" grade="16" extra="">This route isn't the only thing requiring cleaning. Start at the weakness 3m right of Something Scurrilous. Climb the line to the bulge and pull through it on layaways. Continue up the tight handcrack to where it veers right. Continue up using a layaway edge and move L out into the chimney. Step around the arete and clip the DBB to lower-off.</climb>
  <climb id="37" name="Genetic Junk Yard" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Colin Reed, Dec 1991." stars="" number="44." length="25m" grade="16" extra="">Start on the downhill prow of the Catoblepas buttress, on a brushed slab. Climb easily up the slab to the roof, through this (RP runner) and continue easily.</climb>
  <climb id="38" name="Catoblepas" guide.type="climb""0""37" guide.action="submit" fa="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Simon Stubbs, Oct 1988." stars="" number="45." length="20m" grade="14" extra="">About 10m L of Oisin is another large buttress. The line starts in a widish crack on the RH side of the buttress, then trends L onto the eastward facing side. Continue straight up with the crux at the top.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="162">Oisin Buttress</text>
  <text id="314" class="text">The large buttress with an obvious wide crack (Oisin) running through the nose. The buttress can be accessed easily from where the orange-taped track splits off to the Ferio Buttress.</text>
  <image id="330" src="Oisin App.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Oisin Buttress">
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      <path id="62525" points="587.0,558.0, 589.0,558.0, 546.0,470.0, 512.0,403.0, 475.0,340.0, 453.0,301.0, 382.0,201.0, 371.0,168.0, 291.0,78.0,belay" d="M587.0,558.0C587.8,558.0 589.3,558.7 589.0,558.0C588.7,557.3 559.4,496.9 546.0,470.0C532.6,443.1 526.0,428.6 512.0,403.0C498.0,377.4 484.0,355.5 475.0,340.0C466.0,324.5 463.0,315.9 453.0,301.0C443.0,286.1 389.3,212.8 382.0,201.0C374.7,189.2 379.3,179.2 371.0,168.0C362.7,156.8 323.0,114.0 291.0,78.0" linkedTo="40"/>
  <climb id="39" name="Oisin" guide.type="climb""0""38" guide.action="submit" fa="Robert McMahon, Peter Jackson, Chris Viney, 1969." stars="*" number="46." length="20m" grade="11" extra="">The flakes on the right should be treated with care, as should the possum! Climbs the wide crack on the big buttress, starting from the elevated rock platform which you gain from the Ferio area. Rap-off tree at top.</climb>
  <climb id="40" name="Mulliners Code" guide.type="climb""0""39" guide.action="submit" fa="Peter Jackson, Bob deCesare, Jan 1981." stars="" number="47." length="20m" grade="16" extra="">A major disappointment once you have done the flake. Climb the crack up the LHS of a flake 3m R of Oisin (of dubious attachment). Either continue up the dirty gully above, or move L and climb the RH edge of the delicately stacked flakes just R of Oison.</climb>
  <climb id="41" name="Maelstrom" fa="Evan Peacock, Aug 1988." stars="" number="48." length="20m" grade="18" extra="">The slightly overhanging problem just R of Mulliner's Code. Climb up into the small sentry box until the line joins the aforementioned then continue up that line.</climb>
  <image id="331" src="Alehkines App.jpg" height="525" width="700" legend="true" legendTitle="Alekhines Defence" legendx="12" legendy="35">
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      <rect id="85848" x="109" y="4" width="81" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="Oisin Buttress" arrowDirection="south_east"/>
  <climb id="42" name="Ploughman&apos;s Launch" fa="Evan Peacock, Sep 1989." stars="" number="49." length="20m" grade="18 R" extra="">The line just L of the Alekhine's Defence buttress. Climb the arête on large holds to the horizontal break at 4m and runners. Continue up Mulliner's Code.</climb>
  <climb id="43" name="Gecko" fa="Adrian Herington, Doug Bruce, 1985." stars="" number="50." length="12m" grade="19" extra="">The less ugly variant of the two. The direct start and finish of Alekhines Defence. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Editors Note 2022: Originally a * route, but needs a brush to make approachable. Topo is not entirely correct and needs amending.</climb>
  <climb id="44" name="Alekhines Defence" fa="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Oct 1984." stars="" number="51." length="12m" grade="19" extra="">Has sent a few people away empty-handed over the years. The face 5m right of Mulliner's Code. Climb the face trending diagonally L from the bottom RH corner. The gear is as thin as it looks.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Editors Note 2022: Originally a * route, but needs a brush to make approachable.</climb>
  <text id="243" class="heading3">Ferio Buttress</text>
  <text id="278" class="text">For this area, take the uphill track as you pass Directissimo Man instead of following the orange-taped track down the hill. DBB lower-off's have been installed for convenient descent. The face climbing on this buttress is outstanding.</text>
  <image id="332" src="Ferio LHS App.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Ferio Buttress LHS">
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  <climb id="335" stars="" extra="4Þ" number="52." name="Unknown route" length="20m" grade="?" fa="Unkown project / FA (Not described in original EP guide)">The undescribed, unnamed and unknown route up the overhanging wall to the left of Electric Exercise Bike.</climb>
  <climb id="45" name="Electric Exercise Bike" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Oct 1984." stars="**" number="53." length="15m" grade="18" extra="">Beats any workout at the gym! Climb the groove/layaway to the left of the narrow chimney until you can trend left onto the slab. Climb the slabby face on RP's and micro-cams (far more abundant than they appear from the ground), moving into the sentry box at half height. Follow the delightful crack above to the top and DBB lower-off.</climb>
  <climb id="46" name="Liars and Losers" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, May 1990." stars="**" number="54." length="15m20m" grade="20" extra="2 Carrot Bolts">A quality route, starting at the base of the LH arête of the buttress. Climb to the small roof carefully, reach over and clip the first carrot before hitting the bulge. Continue up to ansome snazzy RP (difficultplacements to find)at a stance, mantle to another carrot, then continue up the arête beforecast asome finalcams stepplacements L to a cam pocket and the DBB lower-off.</climb>
  <climb id="47" name="Bicycles Don&apos;t Fly" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Aug 1985." stars="**" number="55." length="15m20m" grade="17" extra="">Want a bet? StartsBest just climbed as a variant to the Ants Pants. climbs the face left of The Ants Pants taking the line through the overlap up the middle of the face. ExceptionalDespite face climbinglooks, marredprotection onlyis byabundant the escape right into the chimneyand bomber. ProtectionMake issure goodto if you step right occasionally to place gear in the Ants Pants andas getneeded creativewhen withthe Iftrickles you don't, it feels much more excitingout on the face.</climb>
  <climb id="48" name="The Ants Pants" fa="Bob Bull, John Moore, Apr 1971." stars="*" number="56." length="15m20m" grade="13" extra="">A very naughty possum jumped onto Chris whilst he was cleaning and anchoring this buttress during the crag's revival. Now clean, and the possum evicted, this is quite a pleasant lead for the grade. Follow the crack up the face of the buttress, stepping left at the top to clip the chains.</climb>
  <climb id="49" name="Don&apos;t Jolt That Bolt" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Sep 1985." stars="**" number="57." length="20m15m" grade="18 R" extra="1 Carrot Bolt">Can be trickier for the not-so-tall. Right of the Ants Pants is a face route equipped with a carrot bolt and monster hanger. Start out righton thenthe arete and move left on the underclings / overlap (sparse pro here). Up to anthe undercutbolt left,and then straight through past thethis boltwith on some choice moves. Run-itHunt out abovethe thenRPs finish(brass acrossoffsets theuseful) Antsabove Pantsthis crack-lineat lefta stance and upfinish to the DBBtop. (originalYou routecan finished straight-up)finish across the Ants Pants to lower-off at it's anchor.</climb>
  <image id="229" src="IMG20210530153026.jpg" height="600" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Ferio Buttress RHS">
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  <climb id="50" name="Ferio" guide.type="climb""0""49" guide.action="submit" fa="Peter Jackson, Michael McHugh, Di Batten, Jan 1971." stars="**" number="58." length="12m" grade="17" extra="">A must-do if in the area. Follow's the well-protected corner crack. Starting at the base, layback to a resting spot on the L wall below where the crack narrows. Continue lay-backing up the increasingly thin crack above, and finish directly up the steep corner to the DBB lower-off.</climb>
  <climb id="51" name="Tall Dudes" guide.type="climb""0""50" guide.action="submit" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Jun 1988." stars="**" number="59." length="12m" grade="21 X" extra="">Originally started through the groove until a key hold was pulled-off. Start up Ferio to the thin ledge on the right wall, then head-out right and solo up the arete on insecure slopey friction dishes. Essentially unprotected and a very, very serious lead.</climb>
  <climb id="52" name="Picnic in the Front Room" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Steve Ford, Steve Carter, Jan 1990." stars="*" number="60." length="15m" grade="22 R" extra="">Follows the incipient crack 3m R and around the corner from Tall Dudes. Follow the fused crack until it ends - the crux is protected with a #0 friend. Step L and finish up Tall Dudes.</climb>
  <text id="288" class="heading3">Directissimo Man Area</text>
  <text id="289" class="text">The next routes are located between the Ferio Buttress and the Zundapp Alove. The track runs straight past the base of Directissimo Man.</text>
  <image id="325" src="Direct Man App.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Directissimo Man Buttress">
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      <rect id="39754" x="478" y="97" width="118" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="Cryptic Clue Buttress" arrowDirection="south"/>
      <rect id="78021" x="159" y="140" width="81" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="Ferio Buttress" arrowDirection="south"/>
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  <climb id="53" name="Directissimo Man" fa="Al Adams, Jul 1984." stars="" number="61." length="8m" grade="12" extra="">Climbs the nose of the buttress which you come across just before the Ferio Buttress. From the base of the flat rock platform, climb the obvious crack and face holds to the top. Walk-off.</climb>
  <climb id="374" stars="" extra="" number="62." name="Directissimo Girls" length="8m" grade="9" fa="Bonnie MacAdam, Vanessa Tonet, May 2022">Reading the guide to find the route optional. Climb the loose and mossy chimney to the right of the buttress. Delightful.</climb>
  <problem id="54" name="Fadel" fa="Colleen McCullough, Noel Ferrier, Jun 1990." stars="" number="63." grade="V1" extra="">The boulder problem immediately L of Cryptic Clue (past the chimney).</problem>
  <image id="333" src="Cryptic Clue App.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Cryptic Clue Buttress">
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  <climb id="55" name="Cryptic Clue" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Oct 1988." stars="" number="64." length="10m" grade="22" extra="1 Carrot Bolt">Another utterly contrived test piece. Uphill in the gully L of Mr Queasy is a blank looking wall broken by a horizontal at about 7m. Climb the face on the LH side of the wall using a bolt and a pin for protection (still there in Oct 2021) - but the LH arête is out of bounds! There are two loose blocks at the top, though they are keyed in.</climb>
  <climb id="56" name="Anagram" fa="Evan Peacock, Al Adams, Oct 1988." stars="*" number="65." length="10m" grade="21" extra="">The face to the right of Cryptic Clue. Start on the RH edge, on face moves. Mantle up onto some slopes, stand, place RPs, then follow the incipient crack to the horizontal break. Finish straight up on good face holds.</climb>
  <climb id="57" name="Ode to a Robotic Arm" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Jun 1990." stars="" number="66." length="15m" grade="19M1" extra="1 Carrot Bolt">Across the small gully right of Anagram is a brushed face with a thin crackline starting at half height. Climb the easy crack to a ledge and a #2RP aid move (or if you have a robotic arm climb it free via a desperately wide pinching layaway - awaiting a FFA). Clip the BR from a small edge, then continue up to a horizontal break and easy ground once the crack is attained.</climb>
  <climb id="58" name="Toes and Thumbs" fa="Greg Aimer, Chrissy Freestone, 1991." length="12m" grade="13" extra="" number="67." stars="">Left of Mr Queasy. Follow the corner/crack system to the ledge and tree.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Editors Note 2021: Needs a brush</climb>
  <climb id="59" name="Mr Queasy" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Simon Stubbs, Bruce Newman, Sep 1988." stars="" number="68." length="12m" grade="18 R" extra="">Go down the notch mentioned in Konked Out for 5m and on the L is a short handcrack. Belay at the eucalypt and climb the crack to the horizontal break. Surmount the bulge above for a slightly queasy experience, then reach through to a large ledge.</climb>
  <climb id="403" stars="" extra="" number="69." name="Our People Are Nuts" length="12m" grade="18" fa="Jeroen Janson, Lawrence Wonhas, August 2022">The face to the right of Mr Queasy. Mantle onto the ledge then follow the easy crack until a wedged block. Continue up the finger crack (crux) to the horizontal and then up the bulge to the top</climb>
  <climb id="404" stars="" extra="" number="70." name="The Friends We Need" length="12m" grade="14" fa="Jeroen Janson, Lawrence Wonhas, August 2022">The off-width right of 'Our People Are Nuts'. Bring big cams (#5 and #6) for the upper section.</climb>
  <climb id="60" name="Konked Out" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Jul 1988." stars="" number="71." length="12m" grade="16" extra="">At the beginning of the notch is a prominent slab on the uphill side. Climb the slab to the ledge, then up the groove and through the bulge on the R.</climb>
  <text id="286" class="heading3">Zundapp Alcove</text>
  <text id="287" class="text">The Zundapp Alcove is the obvious amphitheatre / alcove to the left of the Stung Buttress.</text>
  <image id="285" src="Zundapp area.jpg" height="600" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Zundapp Alcove">
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  <climb id="61" name="Zundapp" fa="Evan Peacock, Al Adams, Jul 1988." stars="" number="72." length="20m" grade="18" extra="">Up the brushed face with incipient cracks (RPs). Continue through the bulge and slab above, to finish up the R side of a small roof which leads to a short corner.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Editors Note 2021: Originally ** but needs a brush and the dead-tree at the top turfing-off.</climb>
  <climb id="62" name="Sundy Mockry" fa="Evan Peacock, May 1990." stars="" number="73." length="12m" grade="13" extra="">The obvious finger sized crack-line about 5m R of Zundapp. Best enjoyed as a first pitch to access Paunch.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Editors Note 2021: Needs a brush.</climb>
  <climb id="395" stars="" extra="" number="74." name="Two Tired" length="12m" grade="13" fa="Liam Mangan-Smith, Neale Smith, July 2022">Finger crack 3m right of "Sunday Mockry". Head up until crack widens (Large cam handy). Either continue up to point where where it is possible to blindly step L into groove or enter groove from lowest point. A good pitch to access "Paunch".</climb>
  <climb id="63" name="Paunch" fa="Peter Jackson, Mendelt Tillema, Feb 1971." stars="*" number="75." length="10m" grade="12" extra="">About 25m L of Stung and across a grass gully is a high buttress with a tree at its base and rounded orange "paunch" at half-height. Climb the crack through the bulges up the RH side of the buttress. Best enjoyed as a second pitch from Sundy Mockry.</climb>
  <image id="225" src="Paunch.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Paunch Buttress" legendFooter="From &apos;Fat and Married&apos;">
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      <path id="61973" points="31.0,777.0, 84.0,639.0, 146.0,588.0,belay" d="M31.0,777.0C52.2,721.8 67.3,666.4 84.0,639.0C100.7,611.6 121.2,608.4 146.0,588.0" linkedTo="62" lineStyle="dotted"/>
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  <text class="heading3" id="163">Stung Buttress</text>
  <text id="279" class="text">After heading along the track left from Bismark, you'll pass through a short wattle grove. Head up the hill just before this ends to get to the Stung Buttress. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Features a couple of classic Lowdina-style face climbs as well as some pleasant crack climbing in the lower grades.</text>
  <image id="224" src="Fat and married.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Fat and Married Buttress">
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  <climb id="65" name="Fat and Married" fa="Evan Peacock, Tim Olding, Aug 1988." stars="**" number="76." length="15m" grade="18" extra="">Lug your lard up this baby! Start at the big ledge that overlooks a grassy gully at the extreme LH end of Stung buttress. Climb the arête using layaways on the RHS then cross L and continue up the face to the top. Small gear.</climb>
  <climb id="64" name="No Corruption" fa="Russ Hinze, Terry Lewis, 1975 - 1998." stars="*" number="77." length="12m" grade="12" extra="">Found below Fat and Married on an isolated buttress, this route has caused quite a few new leaders to come unstuck on its tricky jams. The route takes the obvious crack up the center. Well protected, a good route for a beginner trad leader.</climb>
  <climb id="66" name="Get Out Oscar" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Tim Albion, Oct 1990." stars="" number="78." length="12m" grade="17 R" extra="">Starts about 4m R of Fat and Married and just R of a chimney. A couple of unprotected but easy moves lead to a crack and bomber RP protection. Continue straight up into the bushes.</climb>
  <image id="293" src="Timewarp2.jpeg.jpg" height="792" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Stung Buttress">
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      <path id="23950" points="506.0,349.0, 453.0,270.0, 431.0,223.0," d="M506.0,349.0C484.8,317.4 463.6,287.8 453.0,270.0C442.4,252.2 438.6,242.3 431.0,223.0" linkedTo="69"/>
  <climb id="67" name="Stung" fa="Chris Dawson, Mary McWhirther, Sep 1974." stars="" number="79." length="15m" grade="10" extra="">Climbs the crack to the left of the flake on Jesus Trousers. Bush-bash walk-off.</climb>
  <climb id="68" name="Jesus Trousers" fa="Phil Steane, Pete Steane, Noel Ward, Doug Fife, Oct 1982." stars="*" number="80." length="12m" grade="15" extra="">Hand-jam and bridge up the obvious corner-groove. Take care with the large flake. Step right to DBB lower off. Not a bad way to access the anchor to inspect Time Warp if you're not on-sighting it.</climb>
  <climb id="69" name="Time Warp" fa="Pete Steane, Doug Fife, Noel Ward, Oct 1982. Var: Nat Duhig, Mike Edwards, Nov 1986." stars="**" number="81." length="12m" grade="18" extra="">Quintessential Lowdina face climbing. Takes the thin crack up the face, starting just R of Jesus Trousers. Either start from the bottom of the buttress and trend right (direct start) or step onto the face from the RHS of the arete. Follow the crack trending L from the arete using layaways, face holds, RPs and wishful thinking. Continue up the face and finger crack to DBB Lower-off.</climb>
  <text id="294" class="heading3">The>Twilight Twilight Zone</text>
  <text id="295" class="text">Taking the track further uphill from the Spazattack Buttress will take you to the Twilight Zone. These are a series of short buttresses ending in a gully. The Perchance to Dream Buttress is at the top of the gully, the Dancing Shoes Buttress is at the bottom, and the Contortionist Buttress is in the middle. Further to the left from here is the Stung Buttress.</text>
  <image id="315" src="Perchance.jpg" height="666" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Twilight ZonePerchance to Dream Buttress">
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      <path id="48359" points="556.0,636.0, 489.0,494.0, 446.0,384.0, 426.0,334.0, 433.0,273.0, 436.0,234.0, 406.0,181.0, 375.0,136.0, 332.0,92.0, 289.0,80.0,belay" d="M556.0,636.0C529.2,579.2 507.9,537.3 489.0,494.0C470.1,450.7 453.9,404.0 446.0,384.0C438.1,364.0 428.5,355.4 426.0,334.0C423.5,312.6 431.4,288.6 433.0,273.0C434.6,257.4 440.4,249.0 436.0,234.0C431.6,219.0 417.6,199.6 406.0,181.0C394.4,162.4 389.0,152.8 375.0,136.0C361.0,119.2 347.0,101.7 332.0,92.0C317.0,82.3 306.2,84.8 289.0,80.0" linkedTo="70"/>
  <climb id="346" stars="" extra="" number="82." name="Six shooter" length="10m" grade="17" fa="Henry Garratt, Mark Passier, Christoph Speer, Nov 2021">Just left of Nightmare at 10,000 mm is a gaping off-width. Climb this to the top and tree belay. Take some BD sixes and some small cams.</climb>
  <climb id="307" stars="" extra="" number="83." name="Nightmare at 10,000 mm" length="10 m" grade="13" fa="Christoph Speer, Henry Garratt, August 2021">Climb the obvious clean corner crack to the left of Perchance to Dream. A worthwhile warm-up. DBB Lower-off.</climb>
  <climb id="70" name="Perchance to Dream" fa="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Pete Steane, Dec 1984." stars="***" number="84." length="20m" grade="18 R" extra="">Seldom done because of the location, but reportedly one of Garn's best FAs. Starts up an unlikely looking face (poor pro) and poised above is a block attached to a gently overhanging arête. Mount this as elegantly as possible and continue up the crack above. Walk-off to climbers left down the gully. A little dirty currently.</climb>
  <image id="406" src="Contortionist.jpg" height="667" width="500" legend="true" legendTitle="The Contortionist Buttress">
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      <path id="98373" points="427.0,535.0, 353.0,333.0, 300.0,251.0, 274.0,219.0, 251.0,204.0," d="M427.0,535.0C397.4,454.2 368.9,368.7 353.0,333.0C337.1,297.3 309.4,264.6 300.0,251.0C290.6,237.4 281.9,226.6 274.0,219.0C266.1,211.4 260.2,210.0 251.0,204.0" linkedTo="401"/>
  <climb id="400" stars="*" extra="" number="85." name="CSThe ProjectContortionist" length="10 m" grade="?18" fa="CS ProjectChristoph Speer, Jai Friend, August 2022">The short, thin finger-crack in a groove. Very weird, very cool moves. Step right to DBB lower-off.</climb>
  <climb id="401" stars="" extra="" number="86." name="CSThe ProjectBearded Lady" length="10 m" grade="?13" fa="CS ProjectChristoph Speer, Jai Friend, August 2022">The short hand crack 2 m right of The Contortionist to DBB lower-off. Worth doing if you're already here.</climb>
  <image id="407" src="Dancing Shoes.jpg" height="533" width="400" legend="true" legendTitle="Dancing Shoes Buttress">
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  <climb id="402" stars="*" extra="" number="87." name="CSDancing ProjectShoes" length="12 m" grade="?13" fa="CS ProjectChristoph Speer, Jai Friend, August 2022">The slab above Morning Sun, past a #4 cam, single bolt and RPs and micro-cams in the fused seam. DBB lower-off. A good introductory route to RP and micro-cam placements before tackling the more challenging routes here in this style.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="164">Spazattack and Bismark Buttress (LHS)</text>
  <text id="269" class="text">Located immediately uphill and left of Bismark Buttress. This area has a high concentration of quality routes. There are a number of DBB lower-offs above the climbs that can be used to descend. Ample trees or boulders exist above climbs without DBBs for use as a belay.</text>
  <image id="394" src="IMG_2497 (1).jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Spazattack Buttress LHS">
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      <path id="52966" points="595.0,159.0, 522.0,95.0, 476.0,68.0,lower-right" d="M595.0,159.0C565.8,133.4 538.9,108.0 522.0,95.0C505.1,82.0 494.4,78.8 476.0,68.0" arrow="false" linkedTo="71"/>
  <image id="340" src="Bismark LHS.jpg" height="564" width="900" legend="true" legendTitle="Spazattack and Bismark Buttress LHS" legendx="713" legendy="15">
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  <climb id="391" stars="**" extra="" number="88." name="Morning Sun" length="20m" grade="16" fa="Jeroen Jansen, Christoph Speer, July 2022">The furthest line left. Follow the delightful easy crack until you are forced to step right at the top below the thin finger crack. Follow this to the top of the buttress (crux), stepping right to the DBB lower-off. Well-protected.</climb>
  <climb id="392" stars="**" extra="" number="89." name="Things to do While Waiting for the Apocalypse" length="20m" grade="14" fa="Christoph Speer, Jeroen Jansen, July 2022">Consistent and well-protected - excellent for the grade. Follow the crack-line, with the crux at the top. A very good beginners lead.</climb>
  <climb id="393" stars="**" extra="" number="90." name="Mother Earth" length="17m" grade="18" fa="Christoph Speer, Jeroen Jansen, July 2022">The intimidating crack-line left of Spazattack. Follow the tricky thin hands crack to the chockstones (keyed-in solidly - a hammer and crowbar failed to remove them), mount these into the tomb, then to the top and DBB. Take a BD #4 - no bigger gear needed.</climb>
  <climb id="71" name="Spazattack" fa="Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Oct 1984." stars="**" number="91." length="20m" grade="18 R" extra="">A committing but rewarding lead. Start on the far LHS of the buttress and climb the face / flake, trending right to the horizontal break at 6 m. Take a deep breath, place RPs, and commit to the bulge and groove line above (crux), trying not to fall off before you're next piece onto the slab below. Continue up the face / arete above past some small cams to the DBB lower-off.</climb>
  <climb id="72" name="Spazattack Direct" fa="Top Rope: Evan Peacock, Justin Kennedy, Oct 1985. FFA: Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Jun 1990." stars="" number="92." length="18m" grade="23 R" extra="1 Carrot bolt">The direct start to Spazattack, which takes the right trending thin crack past some small wires and a carrot bolt (looks to be in good condition).</climb>
  <climb id="73" name="Drury Line" fa="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Feb 1992." stars="" number="93." length="25m" grade="20 X" extra="1 Carrot Bolt">Once tried many years ago by Blockhead, but he gave up after breaking a drill - so the start subsequently became a solo! Tackles the roof R of Spazattack and is marked by guano courtesy of the local falcon. Solo the face for 12 m (no pro) to the horizontal break, then run it out again for 5 m to the first roof and a carrot bolt. Trend left to a groove and then straight-up through the second roof to finish.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Editors note 2021: Originally a 3 star route and a great looking line, it cannot be highly recommended at present as it is too lichenous.</climb>
  <climb id="74" name="Being A Pirate" fa="Evan Peacock, Sep 1992." stars="" number="94." length="20m" grade="26" extra="4Þ">Good rock, but the upper bolted line ventures very close to R chimney. The overhanging arête 3m R of Drury Line. A desperate techno-slab, followed by a strenuous journey up the arête around the roof. 4 FH's (some bolts rusted - inspect before clipping).&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Editors Note 2022: Not a bad looking route and originally **, but needs a clean.</climb>
  <climb id="75" name="Hooter" fa="Peter Jackson, Noel Ward, Doug Bruce, 1984." stars="***" number="95." length="20m" grade="17 R" extra="">A Jackson classic. From the foot of Wetcheck, climb onto the face of the buttress with a good RP5 or 0.3 camelot in the crack at 4 m. Follow the rising traverse left across a thin flake (run-out but safe) to the horizontal crack and a piton runner (still usable 2021 - back up with cam/nut). Continue straight up the thin vertical crack-line to an easy mantle and pleasant crack to the top. Up the short wall above the ledge via the arete on the right to the DBB lower-off.</climb>
  <climb id="76" name="Grasshopper Island" fa="Evan Peacock, Tim Albion, Colin Reed, 1992." stars="" number="96." length="20m" grade="15 R" extra="">The companion to Hooter - easier but bolder (bristling with runners except for a 4m runout in the middle section). Start as for Hooter but continue up the arete instead of traversing out left.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Editors Note 2022: A * route, but needs a bit of a brush before being approachable ground-up.</climb>
  <climb id="77" name="Wetcheck" fa="John Moore, Peter Jackson, Aug 1970." stars="*" number="97." length="20m" grade="13" extra="">The straight, fist-sized crack just right of Hooter. Minimal jamming required.</climb>
  <climb id="78" name="Mrs Malaprop" fa="Evan Peacock, Al Adams, Grant Rowbottom, Aug 1992." stars="" number="98." length="15m" grade="17 R" extra="">The slab / face in the alcove just right of Wetcheck. Nice moves, but the runners are dubious (small wires).</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="165">Bismark Buttress (Centre)</text>
  <text id="240" class="text">The first part of the cliff you'll come to if you followed the pink-taped track. There's a suite of routes on this buttress and a DBB / Rap station at the top of Bismark. The initial 10 m of easy (and lichenous) rock can be avoided by walking in to the base of the climbs via the RHS (facing the cliff).</text>
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  <climb id="79" name="V8 Donk" fa="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Feb 1992." stars="" number="99." length="25m" grade="18 R" extra="2 Carrot Bolts">Start immediately left of Hood on a ledge about 10m up. Gain the ledge from the left and climb to the horizontal break. Crux to the small ledge, then follow the #1 RP crack, before a mantle to easier ground. One carrot bolt (looks OK) and 1 FH (rusted - inspect before clipping).&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Editors Note 2022: Route needs a clean before becoming approachable.</climb>
  <climb id="80" name="Hood" fa="Michael McHugh, Robert McMahon, 1968." stars="" number="100." length="30m" grade="16" extra="">The first route done at Lowdina. Start as for Bismark for 2m, then hand jam left onto the nose. Continue to the base of the wide crack, which is followed for 6m until able to step L onto the face. From the good foothold gain the wide crack above, and continue to the chimney and mantle-shelf finish. Use rap-station at the top of Bismark or Hooter for descent.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Editors Note 2022: A *** route, but needs a clean.</climb>
  <climb id="81" name="Subvert the Dominant Paradigm" fa="Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, 1986." stars="**" number="101." length="25m" grade="15" extra="">Was the grade 15 or 18? The first ascentionists couldn't decide so we'll leave it up to you to decide for yourself. A great route with some well-protected climbing in a speccy position on the nose under the roofs. Start as for Bismark and jam left under the small rooflet at 2 m to establish yourself in the crack-line. Follow this straight-up until you reach the big roof, then make some wild moves out right using the massive flake to finish up the Bismark chimney to the DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="82" name="Bismark" fa="Michael McHugh, Peter Jackson, 1968." stars="*" number="102." length="25m" grade="15" extra="">The grunty looking wide crack in the prow of the Buttress isn't as grunty as it looks. Up the crack in the prow to the bulge and through it using small holds on the right. Continue past the small rooves and bridge the chimney to the top. DBB Lower-off.</climb>
  <text id="370" class="heading3">Bismark Buttress (RHS)</text>
  <image id="373" src="Bismark RHS.jpg" height="556" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Bismark Buttress RHS" legendx="5" legendy="2">
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  <climb id="83" name="Doug&apos;s Rat Roxanne" fa="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Jun 1991." stars="*" number="103." length="15m" grade="22" extra="2 Carrot Bolts">Climb the overhanging orange face R and round the arête from Bismark, past 2 carrot bolts and trad gear (carrots seem to be in good condition). Finish at DBB above Bismark.</climb>
  <climb id="84" name="Felix" fa="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Grant Rowbottom, Aug 1992." stars="" number="104." length="15m" grade="18" extra="2 Carrot Bolts">Steep but on big holds, up the arête between Doug's Rat Roxanne and Motorcycle Mama, past 1 Carrot Bolt (looks OK) and 1 FH (looks a bit shit). Use rap-station above Bismark for descent or walk-off.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Editors Note 2022: Originally a ** route but the bolts need replacing.</climb>
  <climb id="85" name="Motorcycle Mama" fa="Evan Peacock, May 1990." stars="" number="105." length="15m" grade="11" extra="">A typical example of the Lowdina scene. Start of the LH wall of a wide gully just L of Illegal Move. Follow the well protected crack (careful of loose rock at the top). Use rap-station above Bismark for descent or walk-off.</climb>
  <climb id="86" name="Illegal Move" fa="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Sep 1985." stars="*" number="106." length="12m" grade="19 R" extra="1 Carrot bolt">A bouldery, unprotected start leads to a stance on a small ledge. Clip the high carrot bolt (in good condition) then tackle the difficult crux moves through the groove. Continue up the finger crack, to finish with a haul over the chockstone. Easy trad-belay at the top and a simple walk-off to the right down past the Bonsai and Virag buttress.</climb>
  <climb id="87" name="Otto Sausages" fa="Evan Peacock, Grant Rowbottom, Steve Ford, Aug 1992." stars="" number="107." length="12m" grade="18" extra="">A nice climb on RP's just R of Illegal Move. Climb the thin crack to a horizontal break - careful of the hanging block on the left. Easy walk-off to the right down the gully.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Editors Note 2021: Originally a * route, but desperately needs a brush.</climb>
  <text id="369" class="heading3">Bonsai Buttress</text>
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  <climb id="88" name="Bonsai" fa="Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson, Apr 1990." stars="**" number="108." length="8m" grade="24" extra="3Þ">Located up the gully left of the Virag Buttress and R of Illegal Move, where a clean orange/gray face stands at the head of the gully.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Original: From the bottom L of the face, climb boldly up the line of face holds past a #3 RP to BR and unusual crux move on upper arete (originally dynoed on the arete (desperate), but static variants just left of arete are easier). &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Now: 2 more bolts added with permission of FA. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;DBB.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Variant: start on the bottom R of the face, place a small cam in seam and move up seam to join the original line at the second bolt.</climb>
  <climb id="296" stars="*" extra="3Þ" number="109." name="Ukiyo-e" length="8m" grade="21" fa="H Jackson and M Brown July 2021">Start at bottom left of the Bonsai wall. Up the centre of the wall, using left arete as needed, then finish up left arete to the crux at the top.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="166">Virag Buttress</text>
  <text id="238" class="text">A very popular area. The next buttress along the track, 30 m uphill and to the right of Bismark. A DBB / Rap Station is located at the top of Virag for descent from the climbs.</text>
  <image id="360" src="Virag new.jpg" height="933" width="700" legend="true" legendTitle="Virag Buttress" legendx="17" legendy="11">
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      <rect id="13435" x="29" y="227" width="89" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="Bonsai Buttress" arrowDirection="south"/>
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  <climb id="89" name="Squawk" fa="Evan Peacock, Al Adams, Oct 1988." stars="*" number="110." length="23m" grade="17 R" extra="">Named for the falcons who nested near here in the late 80's. Start immediately left around the corner from Ungar. Follow the thin fused crack (dust-off your RPs) through the series of ledges - face climb, mantle, face climb, mantle... finishing up the wide crack.</climb>
  <climb id="90" name="Ungar" fa="John Moore, Peter Jackson, Sep 1970." stars="**" number="111." length="25m" grade="17" extra="">Refresh your crack technique. Starting just left of Plastacine Thylacine is a straight crack. Follow the fist crack through the bulge to a stance, then hand jam your way through another bulge (easily and then with difficulty) to a ledge. Climb the short wall above and move right onto the nose and onwards to the DBB above Virag.</climb>
  <climb id="91" name="Plastacine Thylacine" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Steve Ford, May 1990." stars="***" number="112." length="25m" grade="22" extra="5Þ">One of the best looking lines at the cliff - now more approachable since some extra bolts have been added with permission from FA. Originally a bold lead with two carrot bolts and some RP placements that were unusually difficult to place on lead. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Start on the platform 3m L and downhill from Virag, at the base of the bulging face/arete. Climb boldly up the seam in the bulge to FH, then continue up arete using holds on R wall (crux), to the horizontal break (0.3 camelot). Weave up upper face past small wire and 3 FH, before exiting R to easy wide crack which is followed into Virag.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Gear: a few draws, one long draw, small wires or RPs, plus a few cams between 0.3 and 2 camelot size.</climb>
  <climb id="92" name="Virag" fa="Michael McHugh, Peter Jackson, Jan 1971." stars="***" number="113." length="25m" grade="17" extra="">Those not accustomed to the wide have been shut down big time on this classic route. Mick McHugh fell out on the FA and broke his leg! Thankfully, this route is very well protected now with modern gear. Climb the initial corner and bridge out through the roof. Haul yourself up into the wide crack (big cam useful) to reach the salvation of a face hold on the left-hand edge (crux). Follow the hand-crack to the roof, then swing left (or better, go direct) to finish at DBB lower-off.</climb>
  <climb id="93" name="Wolfetone" fa="Robert McMahon, Peter Jackson, Nov 1969." stars="***" number="114." length="25m" grade="18" extra="">Originally an aid-route, this thin layback corner now regularly spits-out aspiring leaders. Climb the awkward corner crack to a difficult exit onto the right wall. Lay-off tight fingers and smear gingerly upward to the security of a small stance (crux). Power up the fist crack above and finish through the chimney to the DBB lower off.</climb>
  <climb id="96" name="Mr Whimpy" fa="Noel Ward, Peter Jackson, Jul 1984." stars="" number="115." length="14m" grade="16" extra="">From Wolfetone, move along to the second small buttress just R. Climb straight up the front of the buttress on flakes to the ledge on the R edge. Clip the fixed peg, then move back L onto the face of the summit block and up to finish.</climb>
  <climb id="94" name="A Salted Battery" fa=" Evan Peacock, Grant Rowbottom, Sep 1992." stars="" number="116." length="10m" grade="25" extra="2Þ">The very steep face route on the back of Wolfetone. Start L of Baby Animals and climb up past 2 FH (stick clip the first). Good fun! No lower-off. Best to continue up the Wolftone chimney and belay at the Virag anchor.</climb>
  <text id="275" class="heading3">The Gully</text>
  <text id="276" class="text">The Gully uphill and to the right of Virag Buttress.</text>
  <image id="361" src="Fruitless new.jpg" height="980" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Fruitless Buttress" legendx="20" legendy="17">
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      <path id="46742" points="487.0,242.0, 494.0,149.0, 504.0,85.0,belay" d="M487.0,242.0C489.8,204.8 491.2,174.8 494.0,149.0C496.8,123.2 500.0,110.6 504.0,85.0" linkedTo="98"/>
  <climb id="95" name="Baby Animals" fa="Lucas Bottomley, Richard Bottomley, Anna Hasan, Apr 1991." length="8m" grade="16" extra="" number="117." stars="">From Fruitless contour around L for about 20m to some largish boulders and a small face cleaned by rockfall. Climb the crack (small wires), with an interesting crux for short runts.</climb>
  <climb id="97" name="Fruitless" fa="Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Sep 1984." stars="*" number="118." length="12m" grade="18" extra="">Climb the face of the buttress for 6 m to the ledge below the small roof, move L around it, then back R to the crack and the top. A little mossy at present but still approachable.</climb>
  <climb id="98" name="Bumper Crop" fa="Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Sep 1984." length="10m" grade="12" extra="" number="119." stars="">Climbs the short orange corner crack at the top of Fruitless. Good for those learning to jam.</climb>
  <climb id="99" name="Old Man&apos;s Hands" fa="Stuart Scott, Adrian Herington, 1981." length="8m" grade="9" extra="" number="120." stars="">The small, dirty handcrack past a bulge about 10 m R and up the gully from Fruitless. Start on the LH side of the gully just before a huge boulder.</climb>
  <climb id="100" name="Good O&apos;s From Heaven" fa="Evan Peacock, Mar 1990." length="10m" grade="25" extra="1 Carrot Bolt" number="121." stars="">The face immediately L and around the corner from Surprise Surprise and protected with a bolt.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Editors Note 2021: Currently overgrown and hidden by a tree at the base of the route</climb>
  <climb id="101" name="Surprise, Surprise" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Nov 1989." length="12m" grade="22" extra="3 Carrot Bolts" number="122." stars="">Harder than it looks. Uphill and L of Sweetie and behind that buttress is a brushed slab protected by two bolts. The climb is directly opposite Old Mans Hands, across the gully. Climb easily to the first bolt, then move up R to a small scoop. After the second bolt move up to another bolt then the top. Walk-off.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Editors Note 2021: In need of a brush.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="167">Sweetie Buttress</text>
  <text id="273" class="text">The tall buttress located just right of The Gully as you head along the track.</text>
  <image id="362" src="Sweetie New.jpg" height="933" width="700" legend="true" legendTitle="Sweetie Buttress" legendx="15" legendy="11">
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      <path id="21627" points="664.0,837.0, 515.0,362.0, 483.0,288.0, 455.0,220.0, 428.0,191.0, 375.0,157.0," d="M664.0,837.0C604.4,647.0 525.1,392.6 515.0,362.0C504.9,331.4 494.4,315.1 483.0,288.0C471.6,260.9 462.8,233.8 455.0,220.0C447.2,206.2 440.5,200.8 428.0,191.0C415.5,181.2 378.1,169.5 375.0,157.0" linkedTo="104"/>
  <climb id="102" name="Acerb" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Nov 1989." stars="" number="123." length="20m" grade="22" extra="2 Carrot Bolts">Traverse L to the arête past a BR. Up this to a shallow groove and another BR and the base of a sloping roof. Traverse out R (airy) on underclings to finish up Sweetie.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Editors Note 2022: Originally a *** route. But needs a brush and carrots inspecting to restore it.</climb>
  <climb id="103" name="Onklunk" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, May 1990." stars="" number="124." length="20m" grade="26" extra="2 Carrot Bolts">The direct start to Sweetie, and great climbing in a super location. Start as for Acerb but go R. Clip the first BR of the lip of the roof, then launch out R (technical) to a stance and the second BR. Trend back L and climb up on side-pulls and a tiny foothold (crux) to jugs, to finish up Sweetie.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Editors Note 2022: Originally a *** route. But needs a brush and carrots inspecting to restore it.</climb>
  <climb id="104" name="Sweetie" fa="Peter Jackson, Mendelt Tillema, Mar 1971." stars="" number="125." length="20m" grade="12" extra="">Was once a *** classic, but can not be recommended in it's current overgrown state. Climbs the wide crack on the R of the buttress. At the ledge, hand traverse out L along the thin crack to the vertical crack, then follow this. Just below the top, finish up the rib to the R.</climb>
  <text id="241" class="heading3">Yoda Buttress</text>
  <text id="242" class="text">A good selection of crack and face climbs in the small recess to the right of the Sweetie Buttress. There is a DBB lower-off above chocolate and Brittle Little Mothers.</text>
  <image id="363" src="Chocolate new.jpg" height="933" width="700" legend="true" legendTitle="Yoda Buttress">
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  <problem id="105" name="Nappy Rush" fa=" Evan Peacock, May 1990." stars="" number="126." grade="V1" extra="">A hard little boulder problem (top-rope recommended) with a poor landing. Start on the overhanging mini-buttress just L of Yoda.</problem>
  <climb id="247" stars="*" extra="" number="127." name="Strawberries" length="25m" grade="14" fa="Christoph Speer, Martin Brown, July 2021">Climbs the clean crack-line left of Yoda. Stem the corner, continue above on good hand-jams and then move right onto the arete. Finish by traversing right to the DBB lower-off above Chocolate.</climb>
  <climb id="347" stars="" extra="" number="128." name="Dessert and a Movie" length="25m" grade="19" fa="Christoph Speer, Jan 2022">Climb the first part of Strawberries until you can undercling and side-pull out right using the flake. Finish up Yoda.</climb>
  <climb id="106" name="Yoda" fa="Peter Jackson, Dec 1980." stars="***" length="25m" grade="19" extra="" number="129.">One the best routes here in the style, and a test-piece. Climbs the obvious thin line up the face just L of Chocolate. Start up this, then move L on the undercling. A thin layaway past some small gear leads to the small ledge (bomber wire). Continue on up the thin seam on good but small RPs, then finish up the hand-crack on the R and onwards to the DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="107" name="Yoda Direct Start" fa="Evan Peacock, May 1990." length="25m" grade="21" extra="" number="130." stars="">A technical little start - unprotected, but not such a bad landing. Follow the slab 2m L of Chocolate until it joins the layaway above the undercling (and runners!).</climb>
  <climb id="108" name="Chocolate" fa="Peter Jackson, Dec 1980." stars="**" length="25m" grade="16" extra="" number="131.">Classic hand-jamming. The obvious hand-crack just right of Yoda. Climb the twin-thin cracks, then follow the main crack through the bulge (crux) to the ledge. Continue up the crack to DBB lower-off.</climb>
  <climb id="109" name="Brittle Little Mothers" fa="Evan Peacock, Roy Langman, Al Adams, Dec 1989." stars="*" length="16m" grade="20 R" extra="1 Carrot Bolt" number="132.">Takes the line through the roof right of Chocolate. Climb the face for 5 m (no pro) to a stance on the arete at the LHS below the roof. Reach up and clip the carrot, then go through the roof and up the face to the horizontal past an RP placement in a dubious flake. Continue by climbing the groove above past a bomber RP, then finish up the face to the DBB lower-off. Doubles of RP3 advised.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="168">Albatross Buttress</text>
  <text id="268" class="text">Located just to the right of the Yoda Buttress is an impressive and intimidating buttress split by a soaring crack (Albatross). Further right, the track drops down towards Greenknowe past some lichenous buttresses.</text>
  <image id="364" src="Albatross new.jpg" height="933" width="700" legend="true" legendTitle="Albatross Buttress" legendx="12" legendy="10">
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      <path id="92555" points="344.0,535.0, 321.0,418.0, 291.0,345.0, 270.0,294.0, 248.0,217.0, 244.0,188.0,belay" d="M344.0,535.0C334.8,488.2 329.5,448.4 321.0,418.0C312.5,387.6 299.4,365.4 291.0,345.0C282.6,324.6 277.0,314.9 270.0,294.0C263.0,273.1 250.8,228.4 248.0,217.0C245.2,205.6 245.6,199.6 244.0,188.0" linkedTo="111"/>
  <climb id="110" name="Ulysses" fa="Mendelt Tilema, Peter Jackson, Mar 1971." length="25m" grade="16" extra="" number="133." stars="*">The scene of some epic cleaning efforts in 2021 to restore this fine route. Uphill in the gully to the left of Albatross is a corner crack. Follow the fist crack to a cleaned ledge, then layback and jam the corner crack above. Finish up the exciting bottomess chimney to a DBB lower-off.</climb>
  <climb id="111" name="Miasma" fa="Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Dave Gardner, 1982." stars="" length="25m" grade="15" extra="" number="134.">Adventurous - beware the poisonous vapours! The deep chimney just R of Ulysses.</climb>
  <climb id="112" name="Albatross" fa="Ian Lewis, Feb 1974. (date of FA in many older guidebooks is I Lewis May 1975 - a definitive written source is required)" stars="***" length="30m" grade="23" extra="" number="135.">Australia’s first grade 23, and very tough at the grade. It has been long assumed that the first 23 was American Henry Barber’s ascent of Insomnia at Frog Buttress in 1975. For over 40 years it was falsely reported that Lewis used a point of aid for rest on Albatross’s 1974 first ascent. In interviews for Gerry Narkowicz’s book on the history of Tasmanian climbing in 2018, Lewis and his belayer Lyle Closs, categorically state that the route was done free. Barber who was originally credited with the first free ascent of Albatross the following year, ironically fell off the route, the only climb that he was reported to have fallen off during his visit to Australia. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;The route follows the overhanging slanting corner-line. Layback the flakes direct (dubious attachment) or traverse in from the left. Swing around the corner, and then delicately mantle to the small ledge and smooth wall. Haul yourself up past the spike and into to a stance at the base of the bottomless crack. Follow this to the top and DBB lower-off.</climb>
  <climb id="405" stars="" extra="" number="136." name="Top-rope Problem" length="30m" grade="23" fa="Martin Brown, August 2022">The face and slab on the front of the buttress to the right of Albatross has been climbed on top-rope. A decision was made not to bolt this due to its proximity to Albatross. Still worthwhile having a play though if you're at the anchor. Run the rope over the front of the buttress, and climb Albatross until at the base of the crack. Step right and up from here and follow the tricky face and delicate slab/groove above, finishing through the short crack to the anchor.</climb>
  <text id="367" class="heading3">Yeti Flakes, Unfinished Symphony &amp; Fingers and Thumbs Buttresses</text>
  <text id="368" class="text">The series of buttresses on the same contour and to the right of Albatross don't provide much value currently. They are all extremely lichenous and the quality ratings and grades given in the original guide aren't providing much inspiration for a mammoth cleaning effort to resurrect them...</text>
  <climb id="113" name="A Ginger Cat Ate Rebecca" fa="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Grant Rowbottom, Aug 1992." length="20m" grade="16" extra="" number="137." stars="">Start about 15m up the gully R of the Albatross buttress. Climb up to the horizontal break below the roof, then launch up the face (small RP's).</climb>
  <climb id="375" stars="" extra="" number="138." name="Feral Non-Immigrants" length="20m" grade="17" fa="Jeroen Jansen, Cyril Scomparin, May 2022">On the right side of the gully between Yeti Flakes and Unfinished Symphony is a crack. Scramble up the gully and jam to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="114" name="Yeti Flakes" fa="Gerry Narkowicz, Pete Steane, 1981." length="25m" grade="17" extra="" number="139." stars="">Start two sub-buttress R of Albatross on the same contour. Face climb up the thin flake on the LH side of the buttress.</climb>
  <climb id="115" name="Unfinished Symphony" fa="Chris Dawson, Mary McWhirther, Sep 1974." length="8m" grade="11" extra="" number="140.">Start on the front of the next buttress right of Yeti Flakes, a few metres R of a large recess. Climb up the crack to the ledge. Follow any of the variety of lines up (bounded on the R by a small square-cut pillar).</climb>
  <climb id="116" name="Fingers and Thumbs" fa="Phil Robinson, Chris Rathbone, Jul 1976." stars="" number="141." length="15m" grade="13" extra="">Thoughtful footwork required to negotiate an undercling. Start at the thin crack splitting the front of the next small buttress R of Unfinished Symphony, behind a big sheoak. Climb the crack past the undercling flake, to the break. Straight up the face of the buttress to top.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Editors Note 2022: Originally a * route. But needs a brush to restore it.</climb>
  <climb id="117" name="Team Pursuit" fa="Doug Bruce and Team, 1985." stars="" number="142." length="15m" grade="16" extra="">Short and sweet... Seems rather changed now from the original description. Start from the gully about 6m R of Fingers &amp; Thumbs. Traverse L and diagonally up on sizeable footholds and around arête to join the thin crack line at a suspect flake, 1m R of F&amp;T. Thinly protected. Continue up past the flake to horizontal. Follow wide crack to top. An alternative variant is to climb F &amp; T for 3m and then traverse R for a metre to the bottom of the thin crack line Follow this to the top past the suspect flake and wide crack, as for the original route (17).&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Editors Note 2022: Originally a * route. But needs a brush to restore it.</climb>
  <climb id="118" name="Team Pursuit Direct" fa="Evan Peacock, Apr 1990." length="15m" grade="20" extra="" number="143.">The direct start.</climb>
  <problem id="119" name="If This Pavement Should Stray Or Rome, Smack It In The Bum, I Love Debra" fa="Garn Cooper, 1986." stars="" number="144." grade="V1" extra="">The boulder problem up the detached pinnacle on the RH side of the gully R of Fingers and Thumbs.</problem>
  <text class="heading3" id="169">Greenknowe Buttress</text>
  <text id="272" class="text">This buttress is located directly below Bulging Biceps Buttress and about 80 m to climbers right and downhill from the Albatross Buttress. The green taped track from the bottom of the hill will have taken you to the base of 'Hooning the Block'.</text>
  <image id="381" legendTitle="Greenknowe LHS" src="greenknowe LHS.jpg" height="500" legend="true">
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  <image id="292" src="greenknowe3.jpeg.jpg" height="1016" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Greenknowe Buttress">
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  <climb id="120" name="Hooning the Block" fa="Garn Cooper, David Loone, 1985." stars="" number="145." length="15m" grade="13 R" extra="">From Fingers and Thumbs go downhill to a prominent buttress/pillar lower than the rest. This route climbs the arête 10m L of Greenknowe. Start up the face R of the arête, then move onto the arête at the horizontal, finishing straight up.</climb>
  <climb id="121" name="York Street" fa="Dave Gardner, Ross Adams, 1986." length="15m" grade="15 R" extra="" number="146." stars="">The line just R of Hooning the Block. Finish up Hooning the Block.</climb>
  <climb id="382" stars="" extra="" number="147." name="Discalculia" length="80" grade="13-17" fa="Dave James and Xinyu Zheng July 2122">The crack 10m right of the of the large leaning pillar and 18.5m left of Greenknowe. Rock seems ok, coould be an error of judgement...</climb>
  <climb id="122" name="Sheening With the Dovens" fa="Garn Cooper, Noel Ward, Sep 1984." stars="" number="148." length="25m" grade="18 X" extra="">The arête a few metres L of Greenknowe. Poorly protected, improved by slinging a branch on a tree near the base of the route (yeah, right!).&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Editors Note 2022: Originally a ** route. But needs a brush to restore it.</climb>
  <climb id="123" name="Greenknowe" fa="Peter Jackson, Mendelt Tillemma, Nov 1969." stars="**" length="15m" grade="12" extra="" number="149.">Adventurous at the grade. Climb the smooth chimney, trending right to the nose of the buttress past the first roof. Up to the second roof and around it on the left. Continue up the short wall above to the DBB lower-off.</climb>
  <climb id="124" name="Queasonaire" fa="Evan Peacock, Mar 1989." stars="" length="15m" grade="18 R" extra="§3" number="150.">Climb the face 1m R of Greenknowe, with protection at 4m (and after the crux!), to join the aforementioned at its roof.</climb>
  <climb id="125" name="Caged" fa="Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson, Oct 1989." stars="*" length="18m" grade="21" extra="4Þ" number="151.">Originally led with an extended sling on a single piton, now retro-bolted in 2021 with permission from FA, although not sport route as an ascent still involves either the original runnout start, or the alternative start with one cam. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Start on the Shirvan buttress below the central scoop. Climb boldly up the foot of the buttress into the scoop and step L to the ledge, clip BP, then hit the bulge directly. Pass old piton and clip new BR and onto upper face following more BRs. &lt;br/&gt;Alt start: 2m left of original, climb the seam (well protected) up to ledge, then continue up original.&lt;br/&gt;DB lower off.</climb>
  <climb id="126" name="Shirvan" fa="Peter Jackson, Noel Ward, 1984." stars="" length="16m" grade="14" extra="" number="152.">From the middle of the buttress just R of Greenknowe move up on big holds to the ledge on the RH edge. Step L for protection behind a suspect flake, then finish directly up the middle.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="192">Biceps Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="194">The Biceps Buttress is situated directly above the Greenknowe Buttress and just to the left of the Papillon Buttress. There is a DBB / rap station above Bulging Biceps which can be used to descend from the climbs.</text>
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  <climb id="127" name="Joyride" fa="Al Adams, Simon Stubbs, Paul Taylor, Nov 1987." stars="*" number="153." length="10m" grade="15" extra="">Trickier than it looks. At the left hand end of Biceps Buttress a leaning gum tree sits in front of a slabby arete. Start behind tree and mount the small bulge, then continue up the face to the top. The challenge is to find the RP placements and not use the tree.</climb>
  <climb id="128" name="Juvenile Hall" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, 1987." stars="*" number="154." length="10m" grade="13" extra="">The scene of more possum magic - try not to get pissed-on like Chris on his repeat ascent in 2021. The route follows the sinuous hand-crack on the same buttress 3m right of Joyride. Once this ends, continue into the depths of the chimney and up to top of the buttress. Carefully traverse to the anchor above Bulging Biceps for descent.</climb>
  <climb id="383" stars="" extra="" number="155." name="Mature Anteroom" length="10" grade="10" fa="probably done last century or else... Dave James and Tim Whelan June 2022">Cracks and chimney just right of Juvenile Hall. Good for the grade and doable without mature sized cams.</climb>
  <climb id="129" name="Bulging Biceps" fa="Al Adams, Simon Stubbs, Nov 1987." stars="*" number="156." length="10m" grade="18" extra="1 Carrot Bolt">Better entertainment than sideshow alley! Located on the right hand side of Biceps Buttress immediately across the gully left of Papillon buttress. Start-off the large buried chockstone in the gully, clip the reachy carrot bolt, then launch-off the chockstone diagonally left and up the steep arête. The crux is placing the small cams / RPs above the bolt whilst your arms melt. Continue to the top and DBB lower-off.</climb>
  <climb id="271" stars="*" extra="3Þ (1 Carrot Bolt)" number="157." name="Bulging Triceps (Bulging Biceps Direct Start)" length="16m" grade="21" fa="Hamish Jackson, Gordon Broome, July 2021">The direct start to Bulging Biceps makes for a more extended section of interesting climbing, and avoids the reachy carrot bolt clip. Start at the foot of gully and climb into the holdless sentry box (bulging triceps required). Up and right via 2 FH (crux) to join the original route at the crux (carrot), and finish up original to the top. DBB. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <text id="270" class="heading3">Papillon Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="195">Papillon Buttress is at the same level and immediately right of Bulging Biceps Buttress. The flat area in front from where the topo image is taken, is Lunchspot Ledge. There is a DBB / Lower-off above Snoober for easy descent from the climbs. However, the walk-off right is also very easy.</text>
  <image id="197" src="Papillon Buttress.jpg" height="933" legendTitle="Papillon Buttress" legend="true" width="700">
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  <climb id="130" name="Rocket Fuel" fa="Al Adams, Pete Steane, Jul 1984." stars="" number="158." length="15m" grade="15" extra="">Above Lunchspot Ledge is a dead gum tree standing in front of the buttress. The start of Rocket Fuel is located 5m left of the dead gum at a leftward facing flake. Climb the flake to a ledge with a large block on it, then follow the multiple crack system above to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="131" name="Blue Turtles" fa="Al Adams, Martin Rose, Sep 1987." stars="" number="159." length="15m" grade="16" extra="">Needs taking to with a brush!. Climb the line that starts 1.5m right of Rocket Fuel. The flake down low is loose.</climb>
  <climb id="132" name="Snoober" fa="Peter Jackson, Bob deCesare, Jan 1981." stars="**" number="160." length="17m" grade="17" extra="">The naughty thin line up the face of the buttress, which continues through the bulge and up the face / cracks above. Protection is actually quite good. The crux is placing the small gear (RPs and micro-cams) in the thin crack. DBB at top.</climb>
  <climb id="376" stars="" extra="" number="161." name="Stella Goes Trad Climbing" length="15m" grade="15" fa="Jeroen Jansen, Stella Lawless, May 2022">Climb Papillon to the ledge, then climb the arete without going into the corner. Nice climbing but contrived.</climb>
  <climb id="133" name="Papillon" fa="Peter Jackson, Bob Bull, May 1971." stars="**" number="162." length="15m" grade="11" extra="">A well regarded beginner route. Viewed from Lunchspot Ledge, Papillon is the obvious jam crack just left of the dead gum. Jam to a small ledge and up the corner to belay on top, being mindful of some suspect blocks at the top of the corner. DBB lower off above Snoober.</climb>
  <climb id="135" name="Canary" fa="Lyle Closs, Ian Lewis, Jul 1972." stars="*" number="163." length="15m" grade="15" extra="">You'll be singing with glee. The line 1 m right of Papillon, hidden behind the dead gum / thriving native cherry. Climb up and through the bulge then step up and right into the finger crack. Follow this which eventually leads to a steep fist crack. Mount the ledge and climb the face above to top out next to Papillon and Snoober. Trad belay on top of Papillon. Easy walk-off to the right.</climb>
  <climb id="136" name="Bird on a Wire" fa="Steve Hamilton, Hamish Jackson, Sep 1991." stars="" number="164." length="12m" grade="18" extra="">Start just right of Canary as the buttress turns uphill. Follow the system of thin cracks straight up to the previous climbs overhang.</climb>
  <climb id="137" name="Sein Zum Tode" fa="Marcel Jackson (with TR inspection) and Rob Williams 1994?." stars="" number="165." length="12m" grade="20 R" extra="">Climbs the enticing face right of Bird on a Wire. The crux is the first moves although the upper section is a little balancy. The main piece of protection is to be found at the first horizontal.</climb>
  <climb id="138" name="Fist" fa="Lyle Closs, Ian Lewis, Jul 1972." length="7m" grade="13" extra="" number="166." stars="">Obvious isn't it? Jam the fist crack in the gully around the back of the Papillon buttress. Finishes at the same spot as Canary.</climb>
  <climb id="139" name="The Prave" fa="Garn Cooper, 1987." length="10m" grade="10" extra="" number="167." stars="">The line up the front of the buttress directly below Papillion Buttress that finishes on Lunchspot Ledge.</climb>
  <image id="220" src="Middle aged crisis.jpg" height="525" width="700" legend="true" legendTitle="Middle Aged Crisis Area" legendFooter="Above Papillion Buttress">
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  <climb id="190" name="Middled Aged Crisis" fa="Dave Drake, Geoff Wayatt, 1979." length="8m" grade="16" stars="*" extra="" number="168.">Worthwhile despite its length. The short crack on the small buttress immediately above and right of Papillion Buttress. Follow the finger crack, which grows into off-width size. Rack accordingly.</climb>
  <climb id="140" name="Heidelberg Direct" fa="Peter Steane (Top Roped), Feb 1984." length="20m" grade="17 R" extra="" stars="" number="169.">A clean layback corner leading to an offwidth and the scene of a serious accident. Found 7m right of Middle Aged Crisis and immediately uphill of Fist. Climb the line avoiding the worst of the tragedy by traversing from the top of the shaky block around the nose and up on small holds. Continue straight up. Protection is difficult to arrange.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="172">Lumbar Cruncher &amp; The Danger Hog Shuffle Buttresses</text>
  <text id="251" class="text">Found above and to the right of the Papillion Buttress. A number of fantastic climbs on excellent quality and interesting rock. Further past the Danger Hog Shuffle, the cliff-line starts to peter out until you come to the Wailing Wall.</text>
  <image id="253" src="Lumbar 2 Rudge.jpg" height="600" width="800" legendTitle="Lumbar Cruncher Area" legend="true">
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  <climb id="141" name="Expiry" fa="Asahel Bush, Phil Robinson, Jun 1975." length="20m" grade="18" extra="" stars="" number="170.">Start about 20m right of Heidelberg Direct on the left hand side of the second of the two prominent recesses, and opposite Rudge. Climb up the crack for 4m, then traverse left around the awkward bulge and up to the ledge. Surmount the offwidth - the chockstone here in the photo is reportedly now missing and makes this section the crux - then climb the large curving flake at the top - careful of rockfall.</climb>
  <climb id="263" stars="*" extra="1Þ" number="171." name="Lithium low down" length="25m" grade="18" fa="Gordon Broome, Hamish Jackson July 2021">Starts 1m left of Expiry, and crosses this climb at half height. Climb the intermittent cracks on the front of the buttres until the ledge at the start of the off-width on Expiry. Clip bolt high and right, climb face (tricky), or off width for 2m to horizontal break, then make exciting traverse right to arete (crux). Follows cracks on arete to top.</climb>
  <climb id="142" name="Lumbar Cruncher" fa="Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson, Mar 1990." stars="***" number="172." length="23m" grade="23" extra="3Þ">Tackles the steep left wall of the recess. Features unusually steep climbing for dolerite, and remarkable rock quality. Climb the orange wall (crux), then continue up the thin crack to the overhang. Move L, pull through onto the arête on the jugs. Don't escape L, but traverse back R to finish up the overhanging crack and exit jugs on prow. Note that two small knife blades were used to protect the crux (placed on abseil) on FA, bolts were added 2021. A steep, technical and varied route.&lt;br/&gt;The natural gear is bomber and placed easily from good stances (a few cams from 0.2 to 0.75, plus a 2 camalot for the final crack).</climb>
  <climb id="264" stars="***" extra="3Þ" number="173." name="Lumbar Cruncher direct" length="23m" grade="24" fa="H Jackson and Gordy Broome 2021">Only 4m of independent climbing, but this is the crux. Improves the original as it continues up the steep line and is not escapable. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Up LC to the overhang at half height. Instead of moving left to the arete, pull up past bolt and slightly R (crux) to upper sentry box, then as per original up the overhanging crack and prow above.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Take few cams from 0.2 to 0.75, plus a 2 camalot for the final crack.</climb>
  <climb id="143" name="Rudge" fa="Lyle Closs, Ian Lewis, Oct 1973." length="20m" grade="16" extra="" stars="*" number="174.">A very approachable and fun off-width (was there ever such a thing?). The obvious line on the right hand side of the recess opposite Expiry. Climb onto an overhanging jammed block at the base of route via its left hand side. Up the wide crack, move right and back left, then to top and DBB Lower-off.</climb>
  <climb id="377" stars="*" extra="" number="175." name="Rudge Direct" length="20m" grade="18" fa="Jeroen Jansen, Stella Lawless, May 2022">Climb Rudge starting from the RHS instead of the left.</climb>
  <image id="359" src="danger hog new.jpg" height="745" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="The Danger Hog Shuffle Buttress" legendx="2" legendy="2">
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      <path id="16497" points="761.0,329.0, 689.0,249.0, 642.0,170.0, 596.0,104.0,belay" d="M761.0,329.0C732.2,297.0 711.0,278.4 689.0,249.0C667.0,219.6 659.4,197.1 642.0,170.0C624.6,142.9 614.4,130.4 596.0,104.0" linkedTo="176"/>
      <path id="76886" points="530.0,121.0, 495.0,122.0, 449.0,88.0, 403.0,67.0, 362.0,66.0," d="M530.0,121.0C516.0,121.4 508.0,127.3 495.0,122.0C482.0,116.7 466.4,98.4 449.0,88.0C431.6,77.6 418.9,71.0 403.0,67.0C387.1,63.0 378.4,66.4 362.0,66.0" lineStyle="dashed"/>
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  <climb id="173" name="The Danger Hog Shuffle" fa="Martin Walch, Garn Cooper, Jun 1986." stars="***" length="25m" grade="17" extra="1 Carrot Bolt" number="176.">Unique moves, great rock and a reputation. An excellent grade 19(!) climb.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Bridge the shallow corner and clip the carrot bolt (good condition). Move around the arete and into the crack-line (crux). Compose yourself and continue to the top past excellent gear to a DBB lower-off. Pull the rope from next to Expiry to avoid a rope jam.</climb>
  <climb id="176" name="Wee Ratty" fa="Otmar Buchman, 1981." stars="*" length="6m" grade="13" number="177." extra="">Short and sweet. The crack/layaway on the small buttress a few metres R of Rudge. The anchor above Rudge / Danger Hog Shuffle can be safely accessed from top of climb.</climb>
  <climb id="177" name="Quine" fa="Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson, Oct 1989." length="18m" grade="18" stars="" extra="" number="178.">A few metres right and uphill from Wee Ratty is a small flat buttress. Climb up easily to the base of the thin crack on the left arête. Follow this up, finishing to the right of the main face.</climb>
  <climb id="178" name="Exactuary" fa="Garn Cooper, Noel Ward, 1986." length="10m" grade="14" number="179.">Exact details unknown but known to be somewhere in the vicinity of Big Electric Cat.</climb>
  <climb id="179" name="Big Electric Cat" fa="Garn Cooper, 1986." length="10m" number="180." stars="" extra="" grade="12">The bridging problem to the L of Gilmigrim.</climb>
  <climb id="180" name="Gilmigrim" fa="Garn Cooper, Noel Ward, Aug 1984." length="10m" grade="13" number="181.">Beware of loose blocks. About 50m R of Wee Ratty is a higher and more prominent buttress with a square roof at its top. From the front of the buttress climb the wide crack to the ledge. Continue up the face to the small ledge then either pull through the roof or step back R and up.</climb>
  <climb id="188" name="Triangle Smile" fa="Ray Lassman" length="6m" grade="14" number="182.">Climb the crack through the bulge at the top of No Hi Jinx buttress.</climb>
  <climb id="189" name="Small Acoustic Dog" fa="Colin Reed, Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Nov 1990." length="8m" grade="21" extra="§2" number="183." stars="">Located on the small buttress just L of No Hi Jinx. Climb straight through the roof on RP's and cams.</climb>
  <image id="380" legend="true"/>
  <text id="298" class="heading3">Spook Fright</text>
  <text id="338" class="text">Located about 40 m above the Wailing Wall.</text>
  <image id="306" src="Spook fright.jpg" height="667" width="500" legend="true" legendx="4" legendy="17">
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  <climb id="299" stars="*" extra="" number="184." name="Spook Fright" length="5m" grade="13" fa="Chris Lang, Jamie Spencer, Aug 2021">A fun filled 5 meters all by itself. Stonker gear and a few good moves makes it a good warm up before wailing wall, which is a further 40m down the hill.</climb>
  <text id="384" class="heading3">Confusalation Buttress</text>
  <text id="385" class="text">Somewhere lost between Greenknowe Buttress and Wailing Wall. Doesn't appear to be described?&lt;br/&gt;At that lower contour anyways.&lt;br/&gt;A few other cracks doable here but shorter and less appealing to modern tastes.</text>
  <image id="388" legend="true" src="Confusulation.jpg" height="711">
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  <climb id="386" stars="" extra="" number="185." name=" Fog" length="8" grade="13" fa="Probably climbed last century or else... Dave James and Tim Whelan. June 2022">Corner and crack on tallest and proudest part of the buttress, that is, if a topo photo isn't enough...&lt;br/&gt;Worthwhile.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="187">Wailing Wall</text>
  <text id="280" class="text">The last of the major buttresses on the RHS of the cliff. To get there from the base, follow the faint ridgeline from the top of the fields up and R of the car park - this makes for a somewhat easier walk than than the central uphill track line. To traverse there from the south, take a slightly downward trajectory across from lunch stop ledge for 5 mins (300m) - the wall faces north so is not visible until you have crossed the ridgeline.</text>
  <image id="313" src="wailing wall.jpg" height="1080" legend="true" legendTitle="Wailing Wall">
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  <climb id="181" name="No Hi Jinx" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Aug 1984." stars="*" length="12m" grade="17" extra="" number="186.">Start 3m L of Ashlars' Edge in the corner 2m left of the arate. From the base of the corner climb up and R to a small ledge then gain the arête and continue up it on the left side. Slightly loose. Small gear necessary.</climb>
  <climb id="291" stars="**" extra="4Þ" number="187." name="Ashlars&apos; edge" length="15m" grade="22" fa="H Jackson and M Brown Aug 2021">Start 5m left of Wailing wall at the short orange corner 2m right of the arete. Climb short short corner (small cam optional), step left onto nose (crux) and continue up wall just R of arete to the small ledge 4m before the top (small cam required here &lt;0.3 camelot). Now climb diagonally right up face to DBB above the wailing wall.</climb>
  <climb id="182" name="Wailing Wall" fa="Marcel Jackson, Hamish Jackson, Jan 1992. Alt start H Jackson 2021" stars="***" length="12m" grade="26" extra="4Þ" number="188.">Superb and sustained face climbing. Climbs the distinctive blank orange wall past 4BR's (some recently replaced 2021) and a #2 camelot to protect final 4m to DBB lower-off.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Alt start (18m 26): Start for Ashler's edge, up to first BR, then more right up obvious diagonal to reach first BR of WW (run out, or small cam at feet). Adds 6m of gr 22 climbing.</climb>
  <climb id="183" name="Argonautica" fa="Chris Dawson, Mary McWhirther, Oct 1974." length="15m" grade="16" number="189.">Start just to the R of Wailing Wall and climb the obvious crack/chimney.</climb>
  <climb id="378" stars="" extra="" number="190." name="Whimper" length="15" grade="16" fa="probably someone last century but otherwise Dave James and Tim Whelan June 2022">The wider crack about 2 m right of Argonautica. Not really offwidthing. No.5 handy but not essential.</climb>
  <climb id="184" name="Velveteen" fa="Rob Williams, Marcel Jackson, 1994." length="7m" grade="6" number="191.">Climbs the short arête and wall of perfect dolerite about 4m R of Argonautica. A knife blade was placed in the horizontal on the FA.</climb>
  <text id="308" class="heading3">Radical Centrist Buttress</text>
  <text id="309" class="text">This block has a lovely clean orange front face and is found 80m right and 30m up hill from the Wailing wall. Head north from the wailing wall crossing a minor gully at 50m, and a minor ridgeline at 80m. The buttress lies 30m up the hill.</text>
  <image id="310" src="Radical Centrist.jpg" height="1080" legend="true" legendTitle="Radical Centrist Buttress">
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  <climb id="311" stars="**" extra="3Þ" number="192." name="Radical Centrist" length="12m" grade="24" fa="H Jackson  and G Broome Aug 2021">Start at the bottom right and move up the orange wall and small overlap with difficulty (crux - requires an usual number of moves left and right to facilitate progress to finally gain the upper left quadrant before the rooflet). Up seam above rooflet, then crack to top. DBB</climb>
  <climb id="312" stars="**" extra="2Þ" number="193." name="Authoritarian ultranationalism " length="12m" grade="20" fa="G Broome and H Jackson Aug 2021">A great companion route to RC. Climb steep face right of arete past 2 FH and funky moves, then gain finger crack, onto ledge, then hand crack to finish.</climb>
  <text id="300" class="heading3">Topless Buttress</text>
  <text id="339" class="text">Located downhill and across the gully from Wailing Wall.</text>
  <image id="305" width="700" height="933" legend="true" src="Topless rock(1).jpg" legendTitle="Topless Buttress">
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  <climb id="302" stars="" extra="" number="194." name="Puffin" length="15m" grade="14" fa="Jamie Spencer, Chris Lang, Aug 2021">Climb 'Topless on 24s' to the horizontal break, go left and up the left-most groove. Bonus points if you sling the dead branches emerging from the crack.</climb>
  <climb id="303" stars="" extra="" number="195." name="Winter dog" length="15m" grade="14" fa="Chris Lang, Jamie Spencer, Aug 2021">Climb 'Topless on 24s' to the horizontal break, go left and up the middle groove.</climb>
  <climb id="301" stars="**" extra="" number="196." name="Topless on twenty-fours" length="15m" grade="14" fa="Chris Lang, Jamie Spencer, Aug 2021">The obvious clean fist-sized crack line, made for learning to jam. Two micro cams are nice, stonker gear to the top.</climb>