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Guide
<guide guidestars="*" pagesize="500" version="2"><parsererror xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" style="display: block; white-space: pre; border: 2px solid #c77; padding: 0 1em 0 1em; margin: 1em; background-color: #fdd; color: black"><h3>This page contains the following errors:</h3><div style="font-family:monospace;font-size:12px">error on line 3 at column 1: Extra content at the end of the document
</div><h3>Below is a rendering of the page up to the first error.</h3></parsererror><header access="In the mid nineties access to the cliff was thought to be closed off, however the situation at that time is the same that is currently in existence. From Richmond drive through Campania towards Colebrook. About 4.2km from the Campania Pub and just before the turnoff to Lowdina Rd, check into &quot;Westfield&quot; on the LHS and see the Bevens (62 604286 or 0418 604286) who are the landowners. They are happy for climbers to use their land as long as you sign their indemnity form. You can also download a copy from thesarvo.com and drop it in at Westfield.  Turn back onto the main road and then left again into Lowdina Road. Follow the gravel road, parking at the railway line. Cross the train tracks and head up the hill. If you can spot the white-streaked rock then head for this - it's Bismark Buttress and a good landmark from which to get your bearings. Attached at the bottom of the online guide is a copy of indemnity form to be used for Lowdina." acknowledgement="by Evan Peacock, originally published in Craglets " guide.action="submit" guide.id="0" guide.page="0" guide.type="header" history="Between the late eighties and early nineties activity at Lowdina was intense. Most of the harder routes were done then; a lot of them by Evan Peacock, Garn Cooper and Al Adams. Martin Stone wrote the original guide in the mid-eighties but it soon became outdated and Evan published an update which forms the basis of this guide. We've also kept Evan's annotation of routes with a symbol (§) to indicate the need for small wires. Don't bother climbing at this cliff if you can't beg, borrow or at least steal some RP's!" intro="An attractive crag for a winter visitation. Lowdina's appeal lies in its sheltered and comparatively warm aspect and often it is dry here when elsewhere it is wet. With 150 routes of varied grades there is a swag of climbing to be done. Although this cliff makes little impression on the ardent sport enthusiast when viewed from the carpark at the bottom of the hill, there exists here a range of interesting, demanding and worthwhile problems each with their own unique flavour." name="Lowdina" rock="Dolerite buttresses from 80º to vertical" sun="Morning sun" walk="25 min uphill" id="1"/><image noPrint="false" src="lowdina sketch map.png" width="" id="2"/><text id="157" class="heading3">Scharnhorst Buttress</text><text class="text" id="3">Scharnhorst Buttress is at the far LH end of the crag immediately before the the hillside turns to the south and into a gully. Beyond the gully the cliff-line peters out.</text><climb extra="" grade="12" length="15m" name="Scharnhorst" number="" stars="" id="4" fa="Karl Prinz, Kevin Kiernan, Mary McWhirther, Feb 1975.">About 80m left of a narrow talus slope is the last major buttress. Scharnhorst climbs a groove, that continues up a contoured crack through a small roof. Roughly finishes up the nose of the buttress. Avoid the loose slabs on the left near the top. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="16" length="15m" name="Blackheads and Beauty Spots" number="" stars="" id="5" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Tim Olding, Aug 1988.">Start in the alcove 6m right of Scharnhorst, off the top of the pillar. Step across and up to the ledge below the flake. Go up the righthand crack, then move left and up past the righthand edge of the flake, finishing up the crack. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="16" length="12m" name="Drugs on Sunday" number="" stars="" id="6" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Aug 1988.">Start 8m right of Scharnhorst on the ledge below the brushed slab. Step up for the slope above, continue up to the next sloping ledge, then up the flake to the top. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="24" length="18m" name="Better Get A Bucket" number="" stars="**" id="7" fa="Evan Peacock, Nov 1991.">Bold face climbing with a technical finish. Start immediately left of The Spastic Acrobat on the lefthand side of the arête. Climb to the horizontal at 3m (and place gear!) then launch for the bolt (hoping your belayer jumps downhill if you fall off clipping). Finish through the small roof on the left. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="20" length="15m" name="The Spastic Acrobat" number="" stars="***" id="8" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Aug 1988.">About 20m right of Scharnhorst is an impressive face split by a horizontal break near the top. Start just right of the obvious crack, and go straight up the face to a small ledge. Continue up on small holds and layaways to the horizontal, then crank through to the finger crack and the top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="10" length="15m" name="Seagull" number="" stars="" id="9" fa="Mary McWhirther, Kevin Kiernan, Karl Prinz, Feb 1975.">An isolated pinnacle lies between Vulpecula and Scharnhorst buttresses. Climb the crack that forms a sweeping s-curve up the righthand side of the buttress. </climb><text id="158" class="heading3">Vulpecula Buttress</text><climb extra="" grade="11" guide.action="submit" guide.id="9" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="30m" name="Vulpecula" number="" stars="" id="10" fa="Kevin Kiernan, Karl Prinz, Mary McWhirther,Feb 1975.">About 20m left the narrow talus slope and protruding down the hill is the Vulpecula buttress. From the base of the buttress climb the nose past loose flakes to a broad ledge. Scramble on up the blocky ledges then finish up the obvious slab on the lefthand side. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="22" length="22m" name="Punks and Lepers" number="" stars="**" id="11" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Nov 1988.">About 10m right and uphill of Vulpecula is a face with a horizontal break at 4m. Climb to the break, then up the face to a flared crack (RP's) then up the crack to the top. </climb><text id="159" class="heading3">Anzac Day Buttress</text><climb extra="" grade="16" length="15m" name="Torque Arm" number="" stars="" id="12" fa="Dave Humphries, John Buttery, Jul 1984.">Found on the Anzac Day buttress this route climbs the wall which forms the LHS of the Ape chimney. Gain the corner/groove just off the ground and climb it, passing right of the small roof. Cross left into the groove and climb this until able to move right into the crack and the top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="10" length="20m" name="Ape" number="" stars="" id="13" fa="Chris Viney, Brendan Moore, Apr 1972.">About 7m left of Anzac Day is a small buttress topped by a prominent 4m flake. Climb the narrow flaring chimney immediately to its left. </climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="Anzac Day" number="" stars="**" id="14" fa="Dave Humphries, John Buttery, Jul 1984.">Not a route for old diggers. Anzac Day is 25m R of the talus slope on a line of buttresses that extend downhill (50m up left of Finn). Start at the base of the LHS of the lowest buttress, climb the slabby face for 5m, and then up the 1m roof via a short crack. Move out R around the roof and up the wall above to the top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="14" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="12m" name="Lejand" number="" stars="" id="15" fa="Jeremy Rackham, Apr 1992.">Start on the LH arête below the roof 2m right of Anzac Day. Climb the arête and crack above, trending to a large ledge. Move left to regain the arête, then up the righthand side of the wall to the top. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="18" length="15m" name="Mick Goes to Moonah" number="" stars="***" id="16" fa="Dave Humphries, John Buttery, Jul 1984.">Thought provoking and delicate. Just left of the amphitheatre between Finn and Anzac Day buttresses is a groove up the nose of a buttress. Follow it to the horizontal break, then continue more easily to the top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="15m" name="Chook Fever" number="" stars="**" id="17" fa="Dave Humphries, John Buttery, Jul 1984.">Fist jammers apply within! 2m R of Mick Goes to Moonah is a clean crackline up yellowish rock on the RH side of the buttress. Jam through the bulge and up for 3m, move out right and up the fist crack for 3m, then finish up the corner. </climb><climb extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="17" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Miss Right Body" number="" stars="*" id="18" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Nic Deka, May 1986.">Worth a sneak look. Start about 3m R of Chook Fever and climb the face, finishing up the first crack. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="18" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m" name="Boys in Bikinis" number="" stars="*" id="19" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Jun 1988.">Probably not a good look! Start 8m right of Chook Fever beneath a roof at 2m. Pull the roof on the lefthand side, then up layaways and back right to a fixed pin above the roof. Finish up the wee bulges above. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="22" length="15m" name="What Bunny Likes Best" number="" stars="*" id="20" fa="Evan Peacock, May 1992.">The face between Boys in Bikinis and Jot Jot Splat, past a BR and several wires. Contrived in staying out of the aforementioned. </climb><climb extra="" grade="15" length="15m" name="Jot Jot Splat" number="" stars="" id="21" fa="Evan Peacock, May 1990.">Start in the recess just R of Boys in Bikinis and bridge? the hand/fist crack that opens up towards the top. </climb><text id="160" class="heading3">Finn Buttress</text><climb extra="" grade="8" length="25m" name="Finn" stars=" ** " id="22" fa="Robert McMahon, Peter Jackson, Chris Viney, 1969.">From Bumble traverse downhill to the base of the next major buttress which forms a series of blocky towers. Start off the block and follow the weakness straight up the nose which steepens at the top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="10" length="25m" name="Bumbly" number="" stars="**" id="23" fa="Peter Jackson, Lyle Closs, May 1971.">From Cromlech go left around the base of the buttress and uphill to where an obvious ledge leads back right towards the nose. Follow the ledge then climb the crack to the ledge above Cromlech. Finish up the broken crack above, or via the nose on the left. </climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="25m" name="Tim's Excuses" number="" stars="***" id="24" fa="Evan Peacock, Sep 1991.">Start just left of Cromlech. Climb the crack with lots of runners, finishing through the small roof (crux). </climb><climb extra="" grade="13" length="18m" name="Cromlech" id="25" fa="Robert McMahon, Peter Jackson, Chris Viney, 1969.">Start a few metres to the left of Tormentil. Climb the chimney which is loose at first and awkward in spots. </climb><climb extra="" grade="9" guide.action="submit" guide.id="25" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m" name="Tormentil" number="" stars="" id="26" fa="Peter Jackson, Robert McMahon, Chris Viney, 1969.1969.">Traverse left and down from Oisin for 60m to the next buttress system which protrudes down the hill. Right of the base of the buttress is a smooth curving corner crack facing right. Climb it. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="15" length="15m" name="Hummer" number="" stars="*" id="27" fa="Evan Peacock, Sep 1991.">The face climb 1m right of Tormentil. The runner placement requires some thought but is bomber. </climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="12m" name="Garage Sale" number="" stars="" id="28" fa="Evan Peacock, Sep 1991.">Start about 15m right of Hummer on a slab, just past a roof-capped mini-buttress. Climb the lefthand of the two lines, finishing up the hand crack. </climb><climb extra="" grade="11" length="12m" name="Little Black Balls" number="" stars="" id="29" fa="Colin Reed, Sep 1991.">The line just right of Garage Sale and a good beginners route. </climb><text id="161" class="heading3">Delinquents Area</text><climb extra="" grade="22" length="8m" name="Maggot On A Brick" number="" stars="**" id="30" fa="Garn Cooper, May 1991.">The short sheltered face about 30m left of Daytime Delinquents just above The Naughty Bottom Burp. The climb has 2 bolts and three cruxes that get progressively easier. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="20" length="12m" name="The Naughty Bottom Burp" number="" stars="" id="31" fa="Evan Peacock, Jun 1990.">Start about 20m left of Rogering the Rock on a small separate buttress with a clean face line and chockstone filled chimney on the right, and at a sag bush. Climb up to the ledge on the lefthand side and a #2RP, then continue back right to the horizontal break. Climb up the sloping ledge and a knifeblade runner, then up to the top and loose blocks. </climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="20m" name="Rogering the Rock" number="" stars="*" id="32" fa="Roger Parkyn, Jun 1990.">The result of some rather rigorous cleaning techniques... Start immediately left of Daytime Delinquents on a wide angles orange corner below a roof. Climb the corner past a BR on the right, then trend left to a large ledge, before finishing up the arête. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="32" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="14m" name="Daytime Delinquents" number="" stars="*" id="33" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Dec 1984.">Desperately in need of a brush. About 40m left of Oisin is a separate buttress with a conspicuous roof at 5m. Follow the crack to the roof, through it tentatively and then up the lichenous RH line above. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="22" length="22m" name="Little Squeaky Feet" number="" stars="***" id="34" fa="Evan Peacock, Dec 1991.">Proves camalots are better than friends! Start about 15m uphill from Something Scurrilous is a leftward trending RP crackline. Follow this up the overhanging wall, with the infamous camalot placement. Looks and is excellent. </climb><text id="162" class="heading3">Oisin Buttress</text><climb extra="§" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="34" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="25m" name="Something Scurrilous" number="" stars="***" id="35" fa="Al Adams, Jun 1990.">A colourful and action-packed experience. Start 25m left of Oisin and 20m right of Daytime Delinquents, at a prominent buttress with a she-oak at its base. Climb the left side of the face behind the tree to a ledge at 4m. Continue up the central crack and bulge to a stance and BR. Climb the shallow groove to the handcrack (crux) to gain a ledge. Hand traverse under the large block out right then mantle awkwardly to gain it's top. Finish up the thin crack to the top of the pinnacle. </climb><climb extra="" grade="16" length="25m" name="Mega Smegma" number="" stars="" id="36" fa="Al Adams, Jun 1990.">Start at the weakness 3m right of Something Scurrilous. Climb the line to the bulge and pull through it on layaways. Continue up the tight handcrack to where it veers right. Continue up using a layaway edge and move left out into the chimney. Continue up the easy chimney and clamber across the void. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="16" length="25m" name="Genetic Junk Yard" number="" stars="" id="37" fa="Al Adams, Dec 1991.">Start on the downhill prow of the Catoblepas buttress, on a brushed slab. Climb easily up the slab to the roof, through this (RP runner) and continue easily. </climb><climb extra="" grade="14" guide.action="submit" guide.id="37" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Catoblepas" number="" stars="" id="38" fa="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Simon Stubbs, Oct 1988.">About 10m left of Oisin is another large buttress. The line starts in a widish crack on the righthand side of the buttress, then trends left onto the eastward facing side. Continue straight up with the crux at the top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="11" guide.action="submit" guide.id="38" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Oisin" number="" stars="**" id="39" fa="Robert McMahon, Peter Jackson, Chris Viney, 1969.">The flakes on the right should be treated with care, as should the possum. Contour left from Bismark to the third buttress line which protrudes downhill to that level. The buttress rises from an elevated flat platform and has a narrow chimney on its right. From the platform, climb the obvious straight crack to the top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="39" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Mulliners Code" number="" stars="*" id="40" fa="Peter Jackson, Bob deCesare, Jan 1981.">A major disappointment once you have done the flake. Climb the crack up the LHS of a flake 3m right of Oisin (of dubious attachment). Either continue up the dirty gully above, or move left and climb the righthand edge of the delicately stacked flakes just right of Oison. </climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="Maelstrom" number="" stars="" id="41" fa="Evan Peacock, Aug 1988.">The slightly overhanging problem just right of Mulliner's Code. Climb up into the small sentry box until the line joins the aforementioned then continue up that line. </climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="Ploughman's Launch" number="" stars="" id="42" fa="Evan Peacock, Sep 1989.">The line just left of the Alekhine's Defence buttress. Climb the arete on large holds to the horizontal break at 4m and runners. Continue up Mulliner's Code. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="19" length="12m" name="Gecko" number="" stars="*" id="43" fa="Adrian Herington, Doug Bruce, 1985.">The less ugly variant of the two. The direct start and finish of Alekhine's Defence. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="19" length="12m" name="Alekhines Defence" number="" stars="*" id="44" fa="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Oct 1984.">Has sent a few people away empty-handed over the years. The face 5m right of Mulliner's Code. Climb the face trending diagonally left from the bottom righthand corner. </climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="15m" name="Electric Exercise Bike" number="" stars="**" id="45" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Oct 1984.">Beats any workout available at the gym! About 5m left of The Ants Pants is a narrow chimney. Follow the groove up the face 2m right of this. Face climb to the sentry box at half height, then follow the crack to the top. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="20" length="15m" name="Liars and Losers" number="" stars="**" id="46" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, May 1990.">A quality route, starting at the base of the arête. The LH arête of the Bicycles Don't Fly buttress.  Climb to the small roof, reach over for a RP runner before continuing and more RP's. Mantle to a BR, then continue up the arête, before a final step left to a friend pocket and the tree belay. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="17" length="15m" name="Bicycles Don't Fly" number="" stars="**" id="47" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Aug 1985.">Want a bet? Starts just left of The Ants Pants taking the line through the overlap up the middle of the face. Despite looks, there is good natural protection. </climb><climb extra="" grade="13" length="15m" name="The Ants Pants" number="" stars="" id="48" fa="Bob Bull, John Moore, Apr 1971.">The crack up the face of the buttress 5m left of Ferio. Jam the crack to the overhang, then directly to the top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="22m" name="Dont Jolt That Bolt" number="" stars="**" id="49" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Sep 1985.">Can be trickier for the not-so-tall. Right of the Ants Pants is a face route equipped with a bolt and monster hanger. Start out right then move to an undercut left, then straight through past the bolt on some choice moves. </climb><climb extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="49" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="12m" name="Ferio" number="" stars="**" id="50" fa="Peter Jackson, Michael McHugh, Di Batten, Jan 1971.">About 20m uphill to the right of Oisin on the northern corner of the buttress is a clean corner. Layback to a resting spot on the left wall below where the crack narrows. Step right to place pro, then layback until a long reach brings a jug over the back. Finish directly up the steep corner. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="50" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="12m" name="Tall Dudes" number="" stars="" id="51" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Jun 1988.">A mongrel of a start now that a key hold has been pulled off. Takes the line up the right wall of Ferio. Starts in a shallow groove and gains a small ledge. Continue up the lefthand side of the arête to the top. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="22" length="15m" name="Picnic in the Front Room" number="" stars="**" id="52" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Steve Ford, Steve Carter, Jan 1990.">Follows the incipient crack 3m right and around the corner from Tall Dudes. Follow the fused crack until it ends - the crux in protected with a #0 friend. Step left and finish up Tall Dudes. </climb><climb extra="" grade="12" length="8m" name="Directissimo Man" number="" stars="" id="53" fa="Al Adams, Jul 1984.">Climbs the nose of the second buttress line which protrudes downhill left of Bismark and about 40m right of Oisin. From the base of the flat rock platform, climb the obvious crack and face holds to the top. </climb><problem extra="" grade="V?" name="Fadel" number="" stars="" id="54" fa="Colleen McCullough, Jun 1990.">The boulder problem immediately left of Cryptic Clue (past the chimney). </problem><climb extra="" grade="22" length="10m" name="Cryptic Clue" number="" stars="*" id="55" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Oct 1988.">Another utterly contrived test piece. Uphill in the gully left of Mr Queasy is a blank looking wall broken by a horizontal at about 7m. Climb the face on the lefthand side of the wall using a bolt and a pin for protection - but the lefthand arête is out of bounds! There are two loose blocks at the top, though they are keyed in. </climb><climb extra="" grade="21" length="10m" name="Anagram" number="" stars="*" id="56" fa="Evan Peacock, Al Adams, Oct 1988.">The face to the right of Cryptic Clue. Start of the righthand edge, on face moves. Mantle up onto some slopes, stand, place RP's, then follow the incipient crack to the horizontal break. Finish straight up on good face holds. </climb><climb extra="M1 §" grade="19" length="15m" name="Ode to a Robotic Arm" number="" stars="" id="57" fa="Evan Peacock, Jun 1990.">Across the small gully right of Anagram is a brushed face with a thin crackline starting at half height. Climb the easy crack to a ledge and a #2RP aid move (or if you have a robotic arm climb it free via a desperately wide pinching layaway - awaiting a FFA). Clip the BR from a small edge, then continue up to a horizontal break and easy ground once the crack is attained. </climb><climb extra="" grade="13" length="12m" name="Toes and Thumbs" id="58" fa="Greg Aimer, 1991.">Start down the notch from Konked Out. Follow the corner/crack system to the ledge and tree. </climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="12m" name="Mr Queasy" number="" stars="" id="59" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Simon Stubbs, Bruce Newman, Sep 1988.">Go down the notch mentioned in Konked Out for 5m and on the left is a short handcrack. Belay at the eucalypt and climb the crack to the horizontal break. Surmount the bulge above for a slightly queasy experience, then reach through to a large ledge. </climb><climb extra="" grade="16" length="12m" name="Konked Out" number="" stars="" id="60" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Jul 1988.">About 5m downhill and left of Zundapp is a notch with a prominent slab on the uphill side. Climb the slab to the ledge, then up the groove and through the bulge on the right. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="18" length="20m" name="Zundapp" number="" stars="**" id="61" fa="Evan Peacock, Al Adams, Jul 1988.">About 11m left and downhill of Paunch is an alcove with a dirty chimney up the lefthand side. Start 1m right, and continue up the brushed face with incipient cracks. Continue through the bulge and slab above, to finish up the right side of a small roof which leads to a short corner. </climb><climb extra="" grade="13" length="12m" name="Sundy Mockry" number="" stars="" id="62" fa="Evan Peacock, May 1990.">The obvious crackline about 5m right of Zundapp. </climb><climb extra="" grade="12" length="10m" name="Paunch" number="" stars="" id="63" fa="Peter Jackson, Mendelt Tillema, Feb 1971.">About 25m left of Stung and across a grass gully is a high buttress with a tree at its base and rounded orange "paunch" at half-height. Climb the crack through the bulges up the righthand side of the buttress. </climb><text id="163" class="heading3">Stung Buttress</text><climb extra="" grade="12" length="12m" name="No Corruption" number="" stars="" id="64" fa="Russ Hinze, Terry Lewis, 1975 - 1998.">Below Fat and Married lies an isolated buttress. The route takes the obvious crack up the centre. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="18" length="15m" name="Fat and Married" number="" stars="**" id="65" fa="Evan Peacock, Tim Olding, Aug 1988.">Lug your lard up this baby! Start at the big ledge that overlooks a grassy gully at the extreme LH end of the Time Warp/Jesus Trousers/Stung buttress. Climb the arête using layaways on the RHS then cross left and continue up the face to the top. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="17" length="12m" name="Get Out Oscar" number="" stars="*" id="66" fa="Evan Peacock, Oct 1990.">Starts about 4m right of Fat and Married and just right of a chimney. A couple of unprotected but easy moves lead to a crack and bomber RP protection. Continue straight up. </climb><climb extra="" grade="10" length="15m" name="Stung" number="" stars="" id="67" fa="Chris Dawson, May McWhirther, Sep 1974.">About 5m left of Jesus Trousers is a chimney. Between them is a crack which begins at a flake at half height and finishes at a tree. Climb the right wall to the flake, then finish up the crack. </climb><climb extra="" grade="15" length="12m" name="Jesus Trousers" number="" stars="" id="68" fa="Phil Steane, Pete Steane, Noel Ward, Doug Fife, Oct 1982.">The dead tree obstructing the final move needs to be turfed off! From Wetcheck move uphill to the left and across the gully for 100m to a short face looking directly downhill with a dead She-oak atop. Handjam and bridge up the obvious corner-groove. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="18" length="12m" name="Time Warp" number="" stars="**" id="69" fa="Pete Steane, Doug Fife, Noel Ward, Oct 1982. Var: Nat Duhig, Mike Edwards, Nov 1986.">Quintessential Lowdina face climbing. The thin crack up the face just right of Jesus Trousers. Don't forget to take a selection of small wires (RP's). Step onto the face from the right and up the crack trending left using layaways, face holds and wishful thinking.  A short variant starts from the base of the buttress, trends right slightly and rejoins the original route. </climb><text id="164" class="heading3">Spazattack Buttress</text><climb extra="§" grade="18" length="20m" name="Perchance to Dream" number="" stars="***" id="70" fa="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Pete Steane, Dec 1984.">A highly entertaining move onto the perched block! Located beyond Spazattack buttress about 40m left of Bismark up the hill on the same side. Starts up an unlikely looking face and poised above is a block attached to a gently overhanging arete. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="18" length="18m" name="Spazattack" number="" stars="**" id="71" fa="Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Oct 1984.">Climbs the big buttress 10m left of Wetcheck, passing the prominent roofs on the left. Just left of a thin right trending crack in the middle of the buttress (Spazattack Direct) is a groove line. Climb this to the horizontal break, then up the grooves above to the top. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="23" length="18m" name="Spazattack Direct" number="" stars="" id="72" fa="Top Rope: Evan Peacock, Justin Kennedy, Oct 1985. FFA: Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Jun 1990.">Takes the right trending crack in the middle of the Spazattack buttress, then straight up Spazattack. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="20" length="25m" name="Drury Line" number="" stars="***" id="73" fa="Evan Peacock, Feb 1992.">Once tried many years ago by blockhead, but he gave up after breaking a drill, Tackles the roof right of Spazattack. The route is marked by guano courtesy of the local falcon. Climb the obvious easy face (no pro) to the horizontal break, then up to the first roof and a BR. Trend left to a groove and then straight up. </climb><climb extra="4Þ" grade="26" length="20m" name="Being A Pirate" number="" stars="**" id="74" fa="Evan Peacock, Sep 1992.">The overhanging arête 3m right of Drury Line. A desperate techno-slab, followed by a strenuous journey up the arête around the roof. 4BR's. </climb><text id="165" class="heading3">Bismark Buttress</text><climb extra="" grade="17" length="20m" name="Hooter" number="" stars="**" id="75" fa="Peter Jackson, Noel Ward, Doug Bruce, 1984.">A Jackson classic! From the foot of Wetcheck move left onto the face of the buttress and follow the rising traverse across a thin flake to the horizontal crack and a piton runner. Continue straight up the vertical crackline (crux) to an easy mantle and pleasant crack to the top. Take a brush. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="15" length="20m" name="Grasshopper Island" number="" stars="*" id="76" fa="Evan Peacock, 1992.">The companion to Hooter. Easier but perhaps more bold, and a typically good Lowdina face route. Takes the righthand line, bristling with runners (except for a 4m runout in the middle section). </climb><climb extra="" grade="13" length="20m" name="Wetcheck" number="" stars="" id="77" fa="John Moore, Peter Jackson, Aug 1970.">About 10m left and uphill from Bismark is a small bay with a couple of chimneys. Left of the chimneys and facing out is a straight crack. Climb it. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="17" length="15m" name="Mrs Malaprop" number="" stars="" id="78" fa="Evan Peacock, Aug 1992.">The slab/face in the alcove just right of Wetcheck. Nice moves, but the runners are dubious (all wires). </climb><climb extra="§" grade="18" length="25m" name="V8 Donk" number="" stars="" id="79" fa="Evan Peacock, Feb 1992.">Start immediately left of Hood on a ledge about 10m up. Gain the left from the left and climb to the horizontal break. Crux to the small ledge, then follow the #1 RP crack, before a mantle to easier ground. </climb><climb extra="" grade="16" length="30m" name="Hood" number="" stars="***" id="80" fa="Michael McHugh, Robert McMahon, 1968.">The original route at Lowdina. Start as for Bismark for 2m, then hand jam left onto the nose. Continue to the base of the wide crack, which is followed for 6m until able to step left onto the face. From the good foothold gain the wide crack above, and continue to the chimney and mantelshelf finish. </climb><climb extra="" grade="15" length="25m" name="Subvert the Dominant Paradigm" number="" stars="*" id="81" fa="Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, 1986.">Follows the crackline 1m left of Bismark. Finish right at the roof (second climbed through at grade 18). </climb><climb extra="" grade="15" length="25m" name="Bismark" number="" stars="**" id="82" fa="Michael McHugh, Peter Jackson, 1968.">The landmark for finding everything else here. Look for the conspicuous white bird-poo stain on the large orange coloured buttress in the centre of the crag. The initial 10m of easy rock can be avoided.   Up the crack in the prow to the bulge and around it using small holds on the nose. Continue past the small rooves and bridge the chimney to the top. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="22" length="15m" name="Doug's Rat Roxanne" number="" stars="*" id="83" fa="Evan Peacock, Jun 1991.">Climb the overhanging orange face right and round the arête from Bismark, past 2 BR's. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="18" length="15m" name="Felix" number="" stars="**" id="84" fa="Evan Peacock, Aug 1992.">Steep but on big holds, up the arête between Doug's Rat Roxanne and Motorcycle Mama, past 2 BR's. </climb><climb extra="" grade="11" length="15m" name="Motorcycle Mama" number="" stars="" id="85" fa="Evan Peacock, May 1990.">A typical example of the Lowdina scene. Start of the lefthand wall of a wide gully just left of Illegal Move. Follow the well protected crack (careful of loose rock at the top). </climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="12m" name="Illegal Move" number="" stars="*" id="86" fa="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Sep 1985.">Start immediately right of the Bismark ledge. A bouldery start leads to the crux at 7m (bolt protected). Continue up the finger crack, to finish with a haul over the chockstone. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="18" length="12m" name="Otto Sausages" number="" stars="*" id="87" fa="Evan Peacock, Aug 1992.">A nice climb on RP's just right of Illegal Move. Climb the thin crack to a horizontal break - careful of the hanging block on the left. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="23/25" length="7m" name="Bonsai" number="" stars="*" id="88" fa="Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson, Apr 1990.">Start up the gully and right of Illegal Move, where a steep orange/gray face stands at the head of the gully, with a native cherry on its right. From the bottom left of the face, climb the obvious line past a #3 RP where the line crosses right and up to a bolt. A small side-pull and long dyno leads to the ledge (or do it statically on the arête at grade 23), then finish easily. </climb><text id="166" class="heading3">Virag Area</text><climb extra="§" grade="17" length="23m" name="Squark" number="" stars="*" id="89" fa="Evan Peacock, Al Adams, Oct 1988.">Named for the falcons who nested near here in the late 80's. Start immediately left around the corner from Ungar. Follow the thin fused crack through the series of ledges - face climb, mantle, face climb, mantle ... finishing up the wide crack. </climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="25m" name="Ungar" number="" stars="**" id="90" fa="John Moore, Peter Jackson, Sep 1970.">Refresh your crack technique! About 30m uphill and right of Bismark is a buttress with three distinctive cracklines. Virag is the LH line. Up the wide crack, through the overhang, then continue easily then strenuously through an orange bulge to a foothold. Gain the ledge on the left via a hidden sidepull, then move right onto the nose and on to the top. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="22" length="25m" name="Plastacine Thylacine" number="" stars="***" id="91" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Steve Ford, May 1990.">Must be the best looking line at the cliff. Start on the platform 3m left and downhill from Virag, at the base of the bulging face near two trees. Climb the crack in the bulge (couple of #3 RP's which turned like a key), tackle the bulge proper (crux) to a BR, then some slab moves bring the horizontal at the base of the headwall. Straight up this on small wires to another BR, before exiting right to a wide crack which is followed into Virag. </climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="25m" name="Virag" number="" stars="**" id="92" fa="Michael McHugh, Peter Jackson, Jan 1971.">The impressive crack right of Ungar. Climb the initial corner and bridge out onto the jammed block. Up into the wide crack to reach the salvation of a face hold on the LH edge (crux). Follow the shallow corner to the roof, swing left and up to finish. </climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="Wolfetone" number="" stars="***" id="93" fa="Robert McMahon, Peter Jackson, Nov 1969.">The thin layback corner right of Virag has been known to spit people out indiscriminately. Climb the awkward corner/crack to a difficult exit onto the right wall. Lay off tight fingers and smear gingerly upward to the security of a small stance (crux).  Power up the crack and chimney above. </climb><climb extra="" grade="25" length="10m" name="A Salted Battery" number="" stars="*" id="94" fa=" Evan Peacock, Sep 1992.">The very steep face route on the back of Wolfetone. Start left of Baby Animals and climb up past 2 BR's (stick clip the first). Good fun!</climb><climb extra="§" grade="16" length="8m" name="Baby Animals" id="95" fa="Lucas Bottomley, Apr 1991.">From Fruitless contour around left for about 20m to some largish boulders and a small face cleaned by rockfall. Climb the crack (small wires), with an interesting crux for short runts. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="16" length="14m" name="Mr Whimpy" number="" stars="*" id="96" fa="Noel Ward, Peter Jackson, Jul 1984.">From Wolfe Tone move along to the second small buttress just right. Climb straight up the front of the buttress on flakes to the ledge on the right edge. Clip the fixed peg, then move back left onto the face of the summit block and up to finish. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="18" length="12m" name="Fruitless" number="" stars="*" id="97" fa="Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Sep 1984.">From Mr Whimpy move right and up the gully for 20m to a roundish buttress opposite Sweetie, with a small yellow roof halfway up. Climb the face of the buttress for 6m to the ledge below the roof, move left round it, then back right to the crack and the top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="12" length="10m" name="Bumper Crop" id="98" fa="Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Sep 1984.">Climbs the short orange corner at the top of Fruitless. </climb><climb extra="" grade="9" length="8m" name="Old Man's Hands" id="99" fa="Stuart Scott, Adrian Herington, 1981.">The small handcrack past a bulge about 15m right and up a gully from Fruitless. Start on the lefthand side of the gully just before a huge boulder. </climb><text id="167" class="heading3">Sweetie Area</text><climb extra="" grade="25" length="10m" name="Good O's From Heaven" id="100" fa="Evan Peacock, Mar 1990.">The face immediately left and around the corner from Surprise Surprise and protected with a bolt. </climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="12m" name="Surprise, Surprise" id="101" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Nov 1989.">Harder than it looks. Uphill and left of Sweetie and behind that buttress is a brushed slab protected by two bolts. The climb is directly opposite Old Mans Hands, across the gully. Climb easily to the first bolt, then move up right to a small scoop. After the second bolt move up to another bolt then the top. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="22" length="20m" name="Acerb" number="" stars="***" id="102" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Nov 1989.">Move to the lefthand end of the next set of buttresses, right and up of Wolfe Tone, in the middle of the face 2m left of Sweetie. Traverse left to the arête past a BR. Up this to a shallow groove and another BR and the base of a sloping roof. Traverse out right (airy) on underclings to finish up Sweetie. </climb><climb extra="§ Þ" grade="26" length="20m" name="Onklunk" number="" stars="***" id="103" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, May 1990.">The direct finish to Sweetie, and great climbing in a super location. Start as for Acerb but go right. Clip the first BR of the lip of the roof, then launch out right (technical) to a stance and the second BR. Trend back left and climb up on sidepulls and a tiny foothold (crux) to jugs, to finish up Sweetie. </climb><climb extra="" grade="12" length="20m" name="Sweetie" number="" stars="***" id="104" fa="Peter Jackson, Mendelt Tillema, Mar 1991.">Climbs the wide crack on the right of the buttress whose upper half is split by a thin crack. At the ledge, hand traverse out left along the thin crack to the vertical crack, then follow this. Just below the top, finish up the rib to the right. </climb><problem extra="" grade="V?" name="Nappy Rush" number="" stars="" id="105" fa=" Evan Peacock, May 1990.">A hard little boulder problem (top-rope recommended) with a poor landing. Start on the overhanging mini-buttress just left of Yoda.
</problem><climb extra="§" grade="19" length="25m" name="Yoda" stars=" *** " id="106" fa="Peter Jackson, Dec 1980.">Climbs the obvious thin line up the face just left of Chocolate. Start up this, then move left on the undercling. A thin layaway and mantel lead to the small ledge, then the jug and upper face, finishing up the crack on the left. </climb><climb extra="" grade="21" length="25m" name="Yoda Direct Start" id="107" fa="Evan Peacock, May 1990.">A technical little start - unprotected, but not such a bad landing. Follow the slab 2m left of the Yoda and Chocolate until it joins the layaway above the undercling (and runners!). </climb><climb extra="" grade="16" length="25m" name="Chocolate" stars=" ** " id="108" fa="Peter Jackson, Dec 1980.">About 6m right of Sweetie is an obvious crack with a bulge halfway up and a chimney on its right. Climb the twin-thin cracks, then follow the main crack through the bulge and the ledge. Finish up the side crack. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="20" length="16m" name="Brittle Little Mothers" stars=" ** " id="109" fa="Evan Peacock, Roy Langman, Al Adams, Dec 1989.">Takes the line through the roof to the right of Chocolate. Climb the face under the roof, traverse to the lefthand end and reach up for the BR before the mount. Continue to the horizontal, then up the groove to a bomber RP, finishing on the ledge. </climb><climb extra="" grade="16" length="25m" name="Ulysses" id="110" fa="Mendelt Tilema, Peter Jackson, Mar 1971.">A few metres left of Chocolate is a small recess with a deep chimney to the right. Climb the wide crack in the left corner, to a grassy exit. Continue up the corner on finger jams, then finish up the awkward bottomless chimney. </climb><climb extra="" grade="15" length="25m" name="Miasma" stars=" * " id="111" fa="Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Dave Gardner, 1982.">Beware the poisonous vapours! The deep chimney just right of Ulysses. </climb><text id="168" class="heading3">Albatross Area</text><climb extra="" grade="23" length="30m" name="Albatross" stars=" *** " id="112" fa="Ian Lewis, Feb 1974. FFA Henry Barber May 1975.">The obvious overhanging slanting corner-line to the right of the Ulysses gully. Start 6m right of that line, with a layback around the block. Swing around the corner, then mantle and move up to the ledge, past the spike and up to the bottomless crack, which is followed to the top. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="16" length="20m" name="A Ginger Cat Ate Rebecca" id="113" fa="Evan Peacock, Aug 1992.">Start about 15m up the gully right of the Albatross buttress. Climb up to the horizontal break below the roof, then launch up the face (small RP's). </climb><climb extra="§" grade="17" length="25m" name="Yeti Flakes" id="114" fa="Gerry Narkowicz, Pete Steane, 1981.">Start two sub-buttress right of Albatross on the same contour. Face climb up the thin flake on the lefthand side of the buttress. </climb><climb extra="" grade="11" length="8m" name="Unfinished Symphony" id="115" fa="Chris Dawson, Mary McWhirther, Sep 1974.">Start on the front of the next buttress right of Yeti Flakes, a few metres right of a large recess. Climb up the crack to the ledge. Follow any of the variety of lines up (bounded on the right by a small square-cut pillar). </climb><climb extra="" grade="13" length="15m" name="Fingers and Thumbs" number="" stars="*" id="116" fa="Phil Robinson, Chris Rathbone, Jul 1976.">Finger lock or cedar box!  Start at the thin crack splitting the front of the next small buttress right of Unfinished Symphony. Climb the crack on finger jams past the undercut flake, then mantle for the ledge. Traverse right, then finish up the wide crack. </climb><climb extra="" grade="16" length="15m" name="Team Pursuit" number="" stars="*" id="117" fa="Doug Bruce and Team, 1985.">Short and sweet. Starts immediately right of Fingers and Thumbs. Traverse in from the right on thin moves, then up the face for a couple of hard moves that soon relent. </climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="15m" name="Team Pursuit Direct" id="118" fa="Evan Peacock, Apr 1990.">The direct start. </climb><problem extra="" grade="V?" name="If This Pavement Should Stray Or Rome, Smack It In The Bum, I Love Debra" number="" stars="" id="119" fa="Garn Cooper, 1986.">The boulder problem up the detached pinnacle on the righthand side of the gully right of Fingers and Thumbs. </problem><text id="169" class="heading3">Greenknowe Buttress</text><climb extra="" grade="13" length="15m" name="Hooning the Block" number="" stars="" id="120" fa="Garn Cooper, David Loone, 1985.">Climbs the arête 10m left of Greenknowe. Start up the face right of the arête, then move onto the arête at the horizontal, finishing straight up. </climb><climb extra="" grade="15" length="15m" name="York Street" id="121" fa="Dave Gardner, Ross Adams, 1986.">The line just right of Hooning the Block. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="18" length="25m" name="Sheening With the Dovens" number="" stars="**" id="122" fa="Garn Cooper, Noel Ward, Sep 1984.">The arête a few metres left of Greenknowe. Poorly protected, improved by using the tree at its base. </climb><climb extra="" grade="12" length="15m" name="Greenknowe" stars=" *** " id="123" fa="Peter Jackson, Peter Jackson, Nov 1969.">From Fingers and Thumbs go downhill to a prominent buttress/pillar lower than the rest. A few metres right of its base is a smooth chimney, blocked, and followed by two overhangs. Climb the chimney moving right up the rib to the small corner and top roof. Step left to the nose and around the overhang and the top. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="18" length="15m" name="Queasonaire" stars=" * " id="124" fa="Evan Peacock, Mar 1989.">Climb the face 1m right of Greenknowe, with protection at 4m (and after the crux!), to join the aforementioned at its roof. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="21" length="18m" name="Caged" stars=" ** " id="125" fa="Marcel Jackson, Oct 1989.">Start on the Shirvan buttress below the obvious scoop and bulge on the left. Climb to the scoop, step left to the ledge, then hit the bulge directly. Continue up (keeping left of Shirvan) - a fixed pin protects the crux, with pre-placed 20cm sling recommended. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="14" length="16m" name="Shirvan" stars=" * " id="126" fa="Peter Jackson, Noel Ward, 1984.">From the middle of the buttress just right of Greenknowe move up on big holds to the ledge on the righthand edge. Step left for protection behind a suspect flake, then finish directly up the middle. </climb><text id="192" class="heading3">Papillion Area</text><climb extra="" grade="15" length="10m" name="Joyride" id="127" fa="Al Adams, Simon Stubbs, Paul Taylor, Nov 1987." stars="*">Take a brush! Biceps buttress is located directly above Greenknowe buttress. A leaning gum tree sits in front of a slabby arete. Start behind this and surmount the small bulge, then continue up the face to the top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="14" length="10m" name="Juvenile Hall" id="128" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, 1987." stars="*">Worth a look. The obvious handcrack on the same buttress 4m R of Joyride. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="18" length="12m" name="Bulging Biceps" number="" stars="**" id="129" fa="Al Adams, Simon Stubbs, Nov 1987.">Better entertainment than sideshow alley! Located on the RHS side of Biceps buttress immediately L of Papillon buttress. Start 2m across the gully from Rocket Fuel off a chockstone in the gully. Climb up past the BR then up the arête. A #4 Friend and RPs make the journey less traumatic. </climb><climb extra="" grade="15" length="15m" name="Rocket Fuel" id="130" fa="Al Adams, Pete Steane, Jul 1984.">Up the hill and right of Greenknowe buttress is Papillon buttress. The flat area immediately in front is Lunchspot Ledge. Rocket Fuel is located 5m L of Papillona dead gum at a leftward facing flake. Climb the flake to a ledge with a large block on it, then follow the crack system above to the top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="16" length="15m" name="Blue Turtles" id="131" fa="Al Adams, Martin Rose, Sep 1987.">Needs a clean. TheClimb the line between1m R of Rocket Fuel and Snoober. </climb><climb extra="§" grade="17" length="17m" name="Snoober" number="" stars="**" id="132" fa="Peter Jackson, Bob deCesare, Jan 1981.">Another>A Lowdina classic facerequiring routenumerous requiring RPs! Climb the thin line up the face 1.5m L of Papillion (protectionprofrom from wires that arecan be awkward to place).</climb><climb extra="" grade="11" length="15m" name="Papillion" stars=" * " id="133" fa="Peter Jackson, Bob Bull, May 1971.">Up>Pleasant. theViewed hillfrom andLunchspot right of Greenknowe buttress is Papillon buttress. Papillon Ledge, Papillon is the obvious jam crack tojust theL left of the dead gum. The flat area immediately in front of Papillon is Lunchspot Ledge. Jam up to a small ledge and up the corner to belay on top.</climb><climb extra="" grade="15" length="20m" name="Canary" stars=" ** " id="135" fa="Lyle Closs, Ian Lewis, Jul 1972.">Entertaining. The line 1m R of Papillion behind the dead gum. Climb upthe throughRHS of the bulge and step up and R into the crackline.  Follow line through fist width crack to ledge. Up face on RHS of buttress to top.</climb><climb extra="§" grade="18" length="12m" name="Bird on a Wire" stars=" * " id="136" fa="Steve Hamilton, Sep 1991.">Start just right of Canary as the buttress turns uphill. Follow the system of thin cracks straight up to the previous climbs overhang. </climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="12m" name="Sein Zum Tode" number="" stars="" id="137" fa="Marcel Jackson (with TR inspection) and Rob Williams 1994?.">Climbs the enticing face right of Bird on a Wire.  The crux is the first moves although the upper section is a little balancy.  The main piece of protection is to be found at the first horizontal. </climb><climb extra="" grade="13" length="12m" name="Fist" id="138" fa="Lyle Closs, Ian Lewis, Jul 1972.">Originally the jam crack around the back of the Papillon buttress - now somewhat changed by rockfall. </climb><climb extra="" grade="10" length="10m" name="The Prave" id="139" fa="Garn Cooper, 1987.">The line up the front of the buttress directly below Papillion that finishes on Lunchspot Ledge. </climb><climb id="190" fa="Dave Drake, Geoff Wayatt, 1979." name="Middled Aged Crisis" length="8m" grade="16">The short crack on a small buttress at the top of Papillion. Follow the finger crack, which grows into to offwidth.</climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="20m" name="Heidelberg Direct" id="140" fa="Peter Steane (TR), Feb 1984.">Directly R of Middle Aged Crisis &amp; immediately uphill from Fist is a clean corner leading to an offwidth. Climb it, avoiding the worst of the tragedy by traversing from the top of the shaky block around the nose and up on small holds. Continue straight up. Difficult protection. </climb><climb extra="" grade="13" length="20m" name="Expiry" id="141" fa="Asahel Bush, Phil Robinson, Jun 1975.">Start about 20m right of Heidelberg Direct on the lefthand side of the second of the two prominent recesses, and opposite Rudge. Climb up the crack for 4m, then traverse left around the awkward bulge and up to the ledge. Surmount the offwidth and chockstone, then climb the large curving flake at the top - careful of rockfall. </climb><text id="172" class="heading3">Rudge Area</text><climb extra="" grade="23" length="23m" name="Lumbar Cruncher" number="" stars="***" id="142" fa="Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson, Mar 1990.">Start in the gully immediately left of Rudge at the steep orange wall. Climb the wall (crux), then continue up the thin crack to the overhang. Move left, pull through onto the arête on the jugs. Don't escape left, but traverse back right to finish up the overhanging crack. Note that two small knife blades were used to protect the crux (placed on abseil). A steep, technical and varied route. </climb><climb extra="" grade="16" length="20m" name="Rudge" id="143" fa="Lyle Closs, Ian Lewis, Oct 1973.">The obvious line on the RHS of the recess opposite Expiry. There is an overhanging jammed block at its base. Climb onto the block via the LHS. Move up the wide crack, then right and back left, then to top.
</climb><climb id="173" name="The Danger Hog Shuffle" length="25m" grade="17" fa="Martin Walch, Garn Cooper, Jun 1986." stars="***">The wall immediately R of Rudge, Bridge the shallow corner and clip the BR. The crack above is reached by a leftwards move. Stand up on the block and follow the obvious crack to the top.</climb><climb id="176" name="Wee Ratty" length="8m" grade="13" stars="**" fa="Otmar Buchman, 1981.">The layaway on the small buttress a few metres right of Rudge.</climb><climb id="177" name="Quine" length="18m" grade="18" fa="Marcel Jackson, Oct 1989.">A few metres right and uphill from Wee Ratty is a small flat buttress. Climb up easily to the base of the thin crack on the left arete. Follow this up, finishing to the right of the main face.</climb><climb id="178" name="Exactuary" length="10m" grade="14" fa="Garn Cooper, Noel Ward, 1986.">Exact details unknown but known to be somewhere in the vicinity of Big Electric Cat.</climb><climb id="179" name="Big Electric Cat" length="10m 12" fa="Garn Cooper, 1986.">The bridging problem to the left of Gilmigrim,</climb><climb id="180" name="Gilmigrim" length="10m" grade="13" fa="Garn Cooper, Noel Ward, Aug 1984.">Beware of loose blocks. About 50m right of Wee Ratty is a higher and more prominent buttress with a square roof at its top. From the front of the buttress climb the wide crack to the ledge. Continue up the face to the small ledge then either pull through the roof or step back right and up.</climb><climb id="188" name="Triangle Smile" length="6m" grade="14" fa="Ray Lassman">Climb the crack through the bulge at the top of No Hi Jinx buttress.</climb><climb id="189" name="Small Acoustic Dog" length="8m" grade="21" extra="§" fa="Colin Reed, Nov 1990.">Located on the small buttress just left of No Hi Jinx. Climb straight through the roof on RP's and cams.</climb><text id="187" class="heading3">Wailing Wall</text><climb id="181" stars="*" name="No Hi Jinx" length="12m" grade="17" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Aug 1984." extra="§">The last major buttress features a large blank orange wall. No Hi Jinx climbs the LH arete. From the base of the corner immediately left of the orange wall, climb up to a small ledge then gain the arete and continue up it to the top.</climb><climb id="182" stars="***" name="Wailing Wall" length="12m" grade="26" fa="Marcel Jackson, Jan 1992." extra="3Þ">Superb and sustained face climbing. Climbs the distinctive blank orange wall past 3BR's and a #3 Friend in the final easy finishing crack.</climb><climb id="183" name="Argonautica" length="15m" grade="16" fa="Chris Dawson, Mary McWhirther, Oct 1974.">Start just to the right of Wailing Wall and climb the obvious crack/chimney.</climb><climb id="184" name="Velveteen" length="7m" grade="6" fa="Rob Williams, Marcel Jackson, 1994.">Climbs the short arete and wall of perfect dolerite about 4m right of Argonautica. A knife blade was placed in the horizontal on the FA.</climb></guide>

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