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Guide
```<guide>
<text class="access" id="4">The climbing on the Sunny Side is described in order of appearance as approached from Kings Bridge. The first boulder is approximately 50m up the zig-zag track just left of the trail</text>
<image id="124" src="Sunny Side First Boulder.jpg" width="400" height="533"/>
<problem id="125" name="Dowstream Arete" number="1." grade="V2/3" extra="(Highball, Stand)">Start off a short broken slab below and climb up the blunt arête via sidepulls and crimps. Feels fairly tall when you get up onto it.</problem>
<problem id="126" name="Mantlecore" number="2." grade="V5/6" extra="(Stand)" stars="**">A classic ledge mantle, although somewhat height dependent. Start on some small crimps at head height, make a move up to the slanted rail and mantle up to a good hold and top out. The crack to the right is off. It may look scary, but the fall and landing are actually quite good.</problem>
<problem id="129" name="Boulder Crack" number="3." grade="V0" extra="(SDS)" stars="*">Jam your way to glory</problem>
<text id="131">These problems are on a group of boulder faces 20-25 meters past the 1st boulder just off the track on the left</text>
<image id="132" src="Sunny Side Second Set.jpg" width="600" height="392"/>
<problem id="6" name="A1" number="1." grade="V0" extra="(Stand)" stars="*">Climb the first low angle blunt arête.</problem>
<problem id="7" name="       " number="2." grade="V0" extra="(Stand)" stars="       ">Corner between aretes</problem>
<problem id="8" name="A2  " number="3." grade="V1" extra="(SDS)" stars="*">Start on a low jug on the right side of the arete and pull up and over into easier climbing</problem>
<problem id="9" name="4&apos;s a Crowd" number="4." grade="V4" extra="(SDS)" stars="*">Start on two opposing sidepulls and climb just left of the corner without using the other boulder to the right.</problem>
<problem id="10" name="4C variant " number="4b." grade="V6" extra="(SDS)" stars="       ">Start as for A2 and traverse rightwards to finish up 4's a Crowd.</problem>
<problem id="12" name="Five for Five   " number="5." grade="V4" extra="(SDS)" stars="*">Start squeezing on a good LH sidepull in the gap and a not so good RH sidepull a little lower. Continue up more sidepulling to the top without using the other boulder to the left.</problem>
<problem id="242" name="Seb&apos;s Arete" number="6." grade="V4" extra="(Stand)" stars="" length="" fa="">Proud arête with technical moves in an exposed position. Gets the heart pumping.</problem>
<problem id="13" name=" Unnamed " number="7." grade="V2" extra="(SDS)" stars="" length="" fa="">A few meters right of the previous climbs is an arête jutting out into the Track. Start on a good left-facing sidepull block under the low roof and climb over the point to top out.</problem>
<problem id="14" name="Unnamed" number="8." grade="V0" extra="(Stand)" stars="" length="" fa="">Climbs the featured face about 2 meters right of the previous arête</problem>
<problem id="15" name="Glass Knife" number="9." grade="V5" extra="(Stand)" stars="" length="" fa="">Above and behind the climbs just described is a second tier. Climb the clean blunt corner up thin crimps to a crux at the top</problem>
<text id="134">Continuing up the track from the second set maybe 100 meters or so (just after the first switch back) is the 8m Seif Buttress. There are 3 routes described here in the route climbing guide that all start the same directly off the track - the left crack at grade 18, the center arete at 20, and the right-leaning crack at about 18 as well. Additionally there is a shorter V0 up the back (also the downclimb) which can be used to access the anchors on top. All of these routes can, and have, been done as bouldering/soloing and with the advent of modern pads and trends in recent bouldering an 8m V0 or V1 is well within reason and thus warrants mention here. Nevertheless, a fall from the top could still land you in some serious trouble so treat them with the respect they deserve.</text>
<text id="136">There are two Boulders at the top of the Feltham Buttress that currently have problems. Access as for the routes by hopping the fence at the first little overlook and following the climbers track down the hill to your left. In less than 100 m you will see a large retangular boulder, Condensed Ham is on the downhill side.</text>
<image id="139" src="Feltham boulders.jpg" width="600" height="365"/>
<problem id="137" name="Condensed Ham" number="1." grade="V7/8" extra="(Hang)" stars="**">A nice balance of tension and compression. Start on a small crimp and sloper at the far left side of a slopy rail (a toe-hook may help to get you started). Move right to the knife-blade arête and top out.</problem>
<problem id="233" name="Condensed Ham Direct" number="1b." grade="V7/8" extra="(Hang)" stars="*">Start as per Condensed Ham but move straight up to a rounded top out.</problem>
<problem id="138" name="Green Eggs" number="2." grade="V6" extra="(Highball, SDS)">If standing in front of Condensed Ham, this boulder is about 7 meters back and to the right. Start matched on a low right facing sidepull and trend slightly leftwards over the buldge to a tricky top out. Although not technically high, the landing slopes severely only to be mitigated by the fact that if you fall from the crux (which is near the top) you'd likely land in a bush that may or may not keep you from rolling down the hill. The first ascentionist threw a pad over the bush to make himself feel better, which may work for you too. See no evil...</problem>
<text class="access" id="17">From Kings Bridge walk along the tourist track. The areas are grouped by the light posts they are near. Each light post is marked with a number such as "LP 5". Problems are described right to left as you come to them.</text>
<image id="143" src="Welcom boulder.jpg" width="400" height="527"/>
<problem id="141" name="Welcome to the Gorge" number="1." grade="V2/3" extra="(Stand)">Start on the pedestal and climb up the arête directly over the track. As a pad pretty much blocks the track for this one, trying it at say 5pm on a sunny summer afternoon is probably not a great idea.</problem>
<problem id="142" name="Artistic Stairway" number="2." grade="V2" extra="(SDS)" stars="*">Better climbing and more out of the way than it's neighbour. Start on the Pedistal at the bottom of the stairs that lead up to the house and climb past a few sidepulls to a large sloper with a crack in the back. Move directly up to the lip and top out.</problem>
<problem id="155" name="Unnamed" number="1." grade="V5" extra="(SDS)">Start on a Jug at about waist height a couple meters to the right of the light post at a crack and a drilled hole. Angle up leftward to finish on the good holds directly above the light post at about 2.5m height. The drilled hole is part of the problem and it would be quite a bit harder if you decide to go au naturale.</problem>
<text id="146">Just past LP5 a buttress comes out and runs parallel to the track. The word "love" is currently graffitied on the downriver side.</text>
<image id="147" src="LP 5 - Love Wall.jpg" width="500" height="375"/>
<problem id="20" name="      Unnamed " number="1." grade="V0/1" extra="(SDS)" stars="*">Sit start on low underclings about 1 meter left of the corner and move up and right on good sidepulls to a jug at about 3 meter height. Drop or downclimb from here</problem>
<problem id="21" name="Walkin&apos; Tall" number="2." grade="V2" extra="(SDS)" stars="**">Sit start on the low underling as per #1, but move left traversing through more underclings to finish on jugs in the crack at about 2.5 meters height.</problem>
<problem id="22" name="Sacrafice " number="3." grade="V3" extra="(Stand)" stars="*">Start in the Crack where the previous problelm finished off (even better if you climbed into it from that problem, although it doesn't change the overall grade) and traverse left through some thin crimps and tricky footwork to finish on good holds in the next verticle offwidth crack.</problem>
<image id="148" src="Love wall continued.jpg" width="500" height="324"/>
<problem id="23" name="Septar" number="4." grade="V7" extra="(SDS)" stars="**">Sit start LH on a low sidepull crimp, and RH a little higher in an arching undercling feature. Move up to a good incut crimp and small edge and then to a good rail. Traverse the rail rightwards through the corner and finish as per #5 by stepping off in the elevated cave. Although the crux is technically over within the first few moves, you may want to at least have a look at the rest lest you find yourself in trouble once you've done the opening.</problem>
<problem id="24" name="Option 2" number="5." grade="V3" extra="(Stand)" stars="*">Start in the corner on some good holds and traverse left though a cool double handed pinch to finish by stepping off onto the raised platform in the small cave. The original intent for the problem was to head straight up just before the end (which has been done at about V6) however some of the upper hold are ready to break and are continually dirty due to water flow, not to mention the epic downclimb, so this problem is not mentioned in the list. Feel free to rekindle the option though if it strikes your fancy.</problem>
<problem id="25" name="The Love Traverse" number="6." grade="V8" extra="(Stand)" stars="*">The full traverse of the Love wall. Start standing on the crack used in #1, reverse this down to it's low undercling start and proceed through problems 2 and 3 which can then be linked into 4 and 5. More moves than most of the routes you'll climb in the gorge.</problem>
<text class="access" id="27">About 30m down the track is a little roof with an offwidth to the right. This is the Heckle area.</text>
<image id="150" src="Heckle Area.jpg" width="600" height="450"/>
<problem id="29" name="Trickster" number="1." grade="V4" extra="(Stand)" stars="*">From offwidth traverse rightwards across face and bridge through the corner to finish in the crack on the right. As the name implies, its more of a puzzle than a difficult rock climb.</problem>
<problem id="30" name="Unnamed   " number="2." grade="V3/4" extra="(SDS)" stars="*">Sit down and start under the roof by squeezing the lowest part of the roof (LH) and the left side of the verticle crack (RH) slap up with compression to reach the jugs just over the lip. Mantle these jugs and stand on them for the finish. For the purpose of this exercise, the crack to the right is off</problem>
<problem id="99" name="Back Talk" number="2b." grade="V8" extra="(SDS)" stars="*">An eliminate, but still good if your looking for a little more difficulty. From a good low corner edge just down and left of the roof move rightwards via RH small edges under the roof and a improbable but usable LH slopy pinch and squeeze across and up to the jugs. Finish standing on this (as per the V3). The good hold up and left from the sitstart is not part of the problem.</problem>
<problem id="31" name="Heckle Traverse" number="3." grade="V5" extra="       " stars="*">Start 2m left of the arete on the good edges you would have avoided in #2b. Traverse rightwards around the arete to the crack and finish as for number 1.</problem>
<problem id="33" name="Unnamed" number="4." grade="V2" extra="(Stand)" stars="       ">From the holds at the start of the Heckle Traverse, go left to the top of the crack in the Corner and drop off.</problem>
<image id="151" src="LP 9.jpg" width="500" height="390"/>
<problem id="152" name="Spunk" number="1." grade="V6" extra="(SDS)" stars="**">A really nice problem. Start on good holds at waist height just left of the arête. Move right around the point then up to the thin seam and up again to a good crimp rail just above. Either drop from here (easiest option),or continue right and finish as per #2 which adds a few moves but doesn't really change the grade.</problem>
<problem id="153" name="Spunk extension (aka Spunky Monkey assis)" number="1b." grade="V7" extra="(Highball, SDS)" stars="***">Climb Spunk up to the crimp rail and continue up the Arête to the the top. The stand start to this is a 2 bolt climb (Spunky Monkey 27), but the whole line starting from the sit can easily be bouldered with a pad or two. The easiest decent is to downclimb the grade 19 just to the left of the arête. A topout is possible but not recommended.</problem>
<problem id="36" name="LP9 traverse " number="2." grade="V4" extra="(SDS)" stars="       ">Start on a waist high short horizontal rail about 4 meters left of the arête. Make a big move up to the next good rail and traverse rightwards around the corner where the rail becomes a seem. Continue on until just before the corner where you can drop down to a good incut left-facing sidepull to finish.</problem>
<problem id="157" name="Unnamed" number="3." grade="V3" extra="(Stand)">About 10 meters to the right of the Spunk arête with the two-bolt routes, is another route climb called Six Agile Men (grade 17) which starts in a corner and climbs up past a small ledge and over a tree branch. This problems climbs the wall just right of this corner with a high start on some edges and moves up to a large sloper to finish</problem>
<problem id="158" name="Six Men" number="4." grade="V1" extra="(Stand)" stars="*">Climb the bottom the Six Agile Men route without using right corner, but instead climbing the arete directly up to the large ledge via sidpulls and crimps. Drop or downclimb the corner.</problem>
<problem id="40" name="Unnamed" number="5." grade="V2/3" extra="(Stand)" stars="       ">Traverse leftward from the Six Men arete to the next arete left.</problem>
<image id="160" src="LP10.jpg" width="600" height="454"/>
<problem id="41" name="The Fox" number="1." grade="V6" extra="(Highball, Stand)" stars="**">Behind LP10 is a very thin and technical dihedral climb called Fox Trot (grade 28). Start as for the route on small crimps just left of the corner and move up and into the dihedral on more small crimps and smeary feet until you can finally escape to good holds on the angled rail at about 4 m (about the 2nd bolt). Drop from here, preferably onto a pad or two.</problem>
<problem id="161" name="Knight&apos;s Castle" number="2" grade="V5" extra="(Stand)" stars="**">A very good problem. About 20 meters farther up the track from The Fox past a few route climbs (called the New Move area in the route guide) is shorter nose-like feature. This problem starts with a good RH edge and a slopy LH sidepull a meter around the corner. move up past slopy crimps and onto the slab to top out. You can com down the ivyed gully to the left.</problem>
<problem id="162" name="Project" number="3." extra="(SDS)">Just right of the Knight's Castle corner is two small staggered crimps under the roof. Move up through horrible slopey holds to a good edge over the lip to the left and finish on easier ground.</problem>
<image id="163" src="LP 12.jpg" width="600" height="395"/>
<problem id="44" name="Unnamed" number="1." grade="V2" extra="(SDS)" stars="*">Rising hand traverse near LP 12. Better than it looks. Start on the horn jug at the bottom of the corner and follow the lip up and right to the top.</problem>
<problem id="45" name="  Unnamed" number="2." grade="V1" extra="(SDS)" stars="**">Climb the face just left of the large crack on nice crimps without using holds right of the break. Sit start on a LH sidepull and RH flat crimp.</problem>
<problem id="46" name="Jumper" number="3." grade="V3/4" extra="(Hang)" stars="*">Jump start up to a crimp rail at about 2.5 m. Move straight up without using the tempting large ledge to your left.</problem>
<problem id="164" name="The Invisible Link" number="4." grade="V9" extra="(SDS)">Start as for #2 and angle up and right around the corner to the start holds of #3 and finish that problem. Preemptive taping the tip of the left index finger is probably advisable once located and start using the 'invisible' hold.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="101">LP 16 - Lone Pillar</text>
<image id="165" src="Lone Pillar.jpg" width="500" height="665"/>
<problem id="102" name="The Pillar" number="1." grade="V5" extra="(SDS)" stars="***">Excellent problem. Sit start squeezing with a LH sloper and RH on the good low corner. Slap up corners, slopers, and edges to a good jug. Continue up the slab to stand atop the pillar. There's no way to walk off from the top, so the best decent is to reverse the slab and drop from the jug onto a pad (which really isn't that difficult).</problem>
<image id="166" src="LP17 Henry Barber arete.jpg" width="600" height="436"/>
<problem id="53" name="Unnamed" number="1." grade="V3" extra="(SDS)" stars="*">About 1m Left from LP17, start on a good angled sidepull rail. Move up past a crimp to the sloping dish, and then to the top.</problem>
<problem id="54" name="Unnamed" number="2." grade="V4" extra="(SDS)" stars="       ">2m to the left of the previous problem and LP17, in a blunt corner. Start LH on a crimp at waist height and RH on the Arête. Make a hard move off bad feat to a good lefthand sidepull and climb to the top.</problem>
<problem id="55" name="Unnamed " number="3." grade="V1" extra="(Stand)" stars="       ">Climb #2 skipping the first hard move.</problem>
<problem id="56" name="The Bench" number="4." grade="V1" extra="(Highball)" stars="       ">Climb the face above the bench. Start standing on top of the bench via an undercling and make a committing move to the rail above. Move slightly left to top out.</problem>
<problem id="57" name="Henry Barber Arete" number="5." grade="V3/4" extra="(Stand)" stars="**">Not a bad line, and a bit of history too, reportedly first climbed by Barber circa 1975. Stand start and move up crimps to top out left of the steel pole. See if you can do it in some old wood-shanked EB's!</problem>
<problem id="61" name="Unnamed" number="1." grade="V2/3" extra="(SDS)" stars="       ">Start just behind LP23 and traverse rightward up and down along the slopey lip to the corner</problem>
<problem id="64" name="Slab" number="2." grade="V2/3" extra="(Stand)" stars="       ">The slab with a hole at the bottom about 0.2m form the ground. Start on a left facing corner feature and move straight up to the slab. Often dirty and not exactly destined to be a classic. We can't all be beautiful.</problem>
<image id="167" src="LP 27.jpg" width="600" height="427"/>
<problem id="67" name="Unnamed" number="1." grade="V1" extra="(SDS)" stars="       ">Climb the twin cracks to the top</problem>
<problem id="68" name="Unnamed" number="2." grade="V2" extra="(Highball, SDS)" stars="       ">Climb the layback crack to the top</problem>
<problem id="70" name="Unnamed" number="3." grade="V1" extra="(Stand)" stars="*">Half way between LP27 and LP28 is a blunt arête. Start on a crimp at head height and climb good crimps to top out the slab.</problem>
<text class="access" id="74">The Double Dozen buttress is just opposite the large bench positioned in the centre of a large landing.</text>
<image id="168" src="Double Dozen.jpg" width="600" height="420"/>
<problem id="76" name="Double Dozen" number="1." grade="V2" extra="(Stand)" stars="       ">Climb the start of Double Dozen (Classic 22 trad route) to the ledge up slopy crimps in the corner.</problem>
<problem id="78" name="       " number="2." grade="V4/5" extra="(Stand)" stars="**">Start on a LH undercling/sidepull with RH on the corner and climb the face left of Double Dozen to the ledge.</problem>
<problem id="82" name="   Double Jump    " number="3." grade="V7" extra="(Stand)" stars="***">Great dyno. Start on a large jug on the arete about 2m above the ground and huck for the rail up and left. Make a move right to finish on the large undercling directly above the start hold. This problem has been topped out by climbing straight up from the finish which isn't difficult (V2/3) but very committing.</problem>
<problem id="83" name="    Double Does It   " number="4." grade="V8" extra="(SDS)" stars="***" length="" fa="">Sit start with a small right hand sidepull crimp just left of the blunt arete and left hand on a small gaston crimp just above a right facing slopy rail. Climb straight up via some large span moves to a bad right hand pinch and then exit out right to the rail. Traverse this to finish as Double Jump or top it out as per the extension to that problem.</problem>
<problem id="85" name="       " number="1." grade="V3" extra="       " stars="       ">Low traverse from left to right 8m past LP 34, finish on ledge near stump</problem>
<text id="113">There are a jumble of freestanding boulders between LP36 and LP37 . There are a bunch of problems here, most of really good quality, and are described below right to left as you would come upon them from King's Bridge.</text>
<image id="170" src="Erratics pic 1.jpg" width="500" height="375"/>
<problem id="87" name="Ramped Up" number="1." grade="V5" extra="(Stand)" stars="***" length="" fa="">A classic. Step up on the ramp and grab a good LH sidepull and a RH undercling for balance. Make a big move up to a good hold right hand, and then another big move to the top.</problem>
<problem id="231" name="Project" number="1b." extra="(Stand)">Climb Ramped Up but pull on and do the first move without using the ramp. Around V10ish</problem>
<problem id="104" name="Unnamed" number="2." grade="V2" extra="(Hang)">Jump (or stand if your tall enough) to a slopy rail and make a couple short moves with poor feet to gain the lip and top out.</problem>
<problem id="106" name="Erratic Traverse" number="3." grade="V2" extra="(SDS)" stars="**">Sit start with a good hold and a left heal in the dish and traverse rightwards on the rising lip all the way around the corner to top out where the lip steps up.</problem>
<image id="171" src="Erratics pic 2.jpg" width="600" height="450"/>
<problem id="111" name="Lock Lively" number="4." grade="V5" extra="(SDS)" stars="**">Sit start at a good little edge toward the bottom of the lip and a RH sidepull crimp with a foot on the slab to the right. Pull up to some sidepulls and the top.</problem>
<problem id="120" name="Con-cam express" number="5." grade="V6/7" extra="(Hang)" stars="**">Start hanging on a sloper and edge about 0.5m right of the corner arete and campus left to gain the arete (you can try feet if you like, but they're not likely to help). Once you've pawed your way to the arete make a big lockoff move to gain a hold high on the slab and top out.</problem>
<image id="172" src="Erratics pic 3.jpg" width="500" height="666"/>
<problem id="173" name="Urak-Hai" number="5." grade="V7" extra="(SDS)" stars="***">Start matched on a good rail at about waist height on the steep face just behind LP37. Make a few powerful moves to gain the lip and top out. A really good thuggy problem</problem>
<problem id="90" name="Urak-Hai Low" number="6." grade="V10" extra="(SDS)" stars="**">Sit start with right hand low on a right facing slopy side-pull and left hand on a dimpled sloper under the arete. Do a brutal crompression move with horrible feet up to the good rail that starts the previous problem and finish that to the top.</problem>
<text id="175">The Basin Carpark is located on the West Launceston (South) side of the Gorge. From the carpark you'll pass through the gate and then by the chairlift. Head left along the track to the suspension bridge. The climbing is described in a clockwise fashion as you would come to it walking along the track.</text>
<image id="176" src="Basin Boulder 1.jpg" width="400" height="533"/>
<problem id="177" name="Leaning Tower" number="1" grade="V2" extra="(Stand)" stars="*">Walk about a hundred meters past the BBQ pick-nick tables on the track and you can't help but see this slightly overhanging pinnacle. Standstart squeezing the the track face and move up past a horizontal crack to the top.</problem>
<text id="181">The next two boulders are down below the track near the water. Best access is either by cutting across the grass near the pool and following a path through the brush or by walking the main track to the suspension bridge and hopping the fence to scrambling down the hill to them. The short boulder can easily be seen from the walking track as you approach the bridge down in a clear area. The Diving board is no visible and must be accessed by walking back a few hundred meters toward the pool.</text>
<text class="heading3" id="237">The Diving Board Block</text>
<image id="178" src="Basin Boulder 2.jpg" width="500" height="358"/>
<problem id="179" name="Diving Board" number="1." grade="V9" extra="(SDS)" stars="***">Only a couple moves of hard pulling, but quite powerful. Start RH on the reinforced crimp in the middle of the face and LH squeezing the right side at about the same height or just below where some small ridges are visable. Make a move up the palming the left face and throw for a good hold out right near the lip. Finish with an easier, but ungraceful top out. Very nice compression problem.</problem>
<text id="243" class="text">Last big flood tilted this boulder and the problems are now considerably easier. For historic purposes, midget used to be V3/4 and Midget Traverse used to be V6.</text>
<image id="180" src="Basin Boulder 3.jpg" width="600" height="450"/>
<problem id="182" name="Midget" number="1" grade="V3V2/43" extra="(SDS)" stars="" length="" fa="">Short and harder than it looks. start both hands matched crimping the flake and move straight up over the buldge to the lip and top out.</problem>
<problem id="183" name="Midget Traverse" number="2" grade="V6V4" extra="(SDS)" stars="*" length="" fa="">Pretty low-ball, and a bit of an eliminate, but not bad climbing. Start on the crimp flake as for #1 but move out left and continue to do so without using the top ledge until you come to the corner, then top out.</problem>
<image id="184" src="Basin Boulder 4.jpg" width="400" height="533"/>
<problem id="185" name="Unnamed" number="1," grade="V4" extra="(Stand)" stars="*">Just off the track about 50m before you reach the bridge you'll pass the light coloured wall. The first problem starts off a vertical pinch/sidepull at about waist height. Move up through a high RH small pinch and the sharp arete to a sloping shelf, which can be traversed leftward toward the corner and then topped straight out.</problem>
<problem id="186" name="Unnamed" number="2," grade="V8" extra="(Stand)">Start on the pinch as for #1, but move left via a RH undercling to get a high LH pinch. Move up with poor feet to a high RH sidepull and more poor feet to gain the top. Very technical and probably harder if your short.</problem>
<problem id="187" name="Unnamed" number="3." grade="V0" extra="(Stand)">Climb the right side of the buttress</problem>
<image id="190" src="Basin Boulder 5.jpg" width="400" height="532"/>
<problem id="191" name="Crossroads" number="1." grade="V0" extra="(Highball, Stand)" stars="***">One of the best vertical boulder problems in the gorge. Climb the tall face just up-river of the suspension bridge. Downclimb in the wide crack to the left</problem>
<image id="192" src="Basin Boulder 6.jpg" width="500" height="375"/>
<problem id="193" name="High Water" number="1." grade="V4" extra="(SDS)" stars="*">Just up-river of the suspension bridge on river-right is a boulder with an overhanging orange face. Sit start on the right facing large sidepull at the bottom of the boulder with feet on the pedestal below (The pedestal is split by a crack not far to the right of where the boulder sits, don't use feet right of the crack). A tricky first move, involving an improbably looking pinch or alternatively some small gaston crimps, leads to some better holds to gain the lip only to be followed by a heart-breaker slopey topout.</problem>
<problem id="194" name="High Water Left" number="2." grade="V6" extra="(SDS)" stars="**">Start as for the previous problem but move out the belly of the boulder to the left, then up through and angled small crack to the lip. Top out over the point.</problem>
<image id="195" src="Basin Boulder 7.jpg" width="600" height="450"/>
<problem id="196" name="Under suspension" number="1." grade="V4" extra="(Stand)">On river-left, just under the suspension bridge is a tall face. This problem climbs the up-stream blunt arête.</problem>
<problem id="197" name="Tailor Made" number="2." grade="V6" extra="(Highball, Stand)" stars="**">Start on some very small crimps at about head hight and move up through more crimps to the slopey lip and top out. This problem is tall, but the landing is flat and can be well protected with pads.</problem>
<problem id="198" name="Unnamed" number="3." grade="V2" extra="(Hang)">Start on a waist-heigh jug on the right corner of the face. Move up left to a flake and continue up this to the top.</problem>
<problem id="199" name="Unnamed varient" number="4." grade="V7" extra="(Hang)">A bit of a contrived line, however you get to use a pretty amazing tufa-like feature not usually seen on dolerite. Start as for the previous problem but move left up to an angled rail and continue up and left past the tufa and a pretty good ledge to a big move to rejoin the previous problem.</problem>
<text class="text" id="92" number="null." new="false">From the car park or track on the West Launceston (South) side of the river, head down to the suspension bridge as per going to old power station. Just before crossing the bridge,,Head down the steep steps to the riverbed and head up stream. The problems are described as you would come upon them walking up river, most being at the base of the cliffs to your left.</text>
<image id="222" src="Duck Reach boulder 1.jpg" width="500" height="375"/>
<problem id="223" name="Unnamed" number="1" grade="V0" extra="(Stand)">Stand start and climb the crack...if your into that sort of thing.</problem>
<problem id="224" name="Unnamed Eliminate" number="2." grade="V3" extra="(Stand)">Climb the right side of the crack (without using the left side) via slopers to the top.</problem>
<problem id="95" name="Unnamed" number="3." grade="V4" extra="(SDS)" stars="*" new="false">Sit start matched in the diagonal crack at mid height and move straight up the face to a good hold and up to the top. Traversing right to the verticle seem is not part of the problem and drops the difficulty to about V2/3.</problem>
<problem id="96" name="Unnamed" number="2." grade="V1" extra="(SDS)" stars="" new="false">Sit start just right of the broken seem on small opposing sidepulls and climb straight up to the top.</problem>
<image id="201" src="Duck Reach boulder 2.jpg" width="500" height="375"/>
<problem id="97" name="Slippy-slappy" number="1." grade="V5" extra="(SDS)" stars="**" new="false">About 15 m past the first problems is this water polished jem. Sit start under the roof low in the crack and traverse this right toward the corner. Move out over the lip to a slopy crimp and move up right past very polished slopers until you can top it out.</problem>
<text id="203">The next climbs are located on the bottom of what the route climbers call the Skidrow Buttress, about 15m up stream of the Slippy-slappy</text>
<image id="202" src="Duck Reach boulder 3a.jpg" width="500" height="666"/>
<problem id="98" name="Unnamed" number="1." grade="V1" extra="(Stand)" stars="" new="false">Climb the blunt arete from high start holds at about 2m height.</problem>
<problem id="204" name="Unnamed" number="2." grade="V1" extra="(Stand)">Start on a jug rail at about head height and move up and leftward to top out as for the previous problem</problem>
<image id="225" src="Duck Reach boulder 3b.jpg" width="500" height="666"/>
<problem id="226" name="Pepsicola" number="1." grade="V7/8" extra="(Stand)">Start with two high small slopy crimps on the face and make a couple technical moves before jumping for the top.</problem>
<problem id="235" name="Opencola" number="1b." grade="V8" extra="(SDS)" stars="*">Linkup. Sit Start the Open Door then angle right to finish up Pepsicola. A good bit of technical climbing involved for this one.</problem>
<problem id="206" name="The open door" number="2." grade="V7" extra="(SDS)" stars="***">A very technical and body position dependent arete with a barn door that really wants to stay open. It has an outrageously cool start move and some nice pinches throughout. Sit start with RH on the arete and LH positioned low on a slopey gaston about a meter left. Flag a foot and pop the right hand up the arete. If you've held the barn door, move delicately up the arete to the top.</problem>
<problem id="207" name="Open door Stand" number="2b." grade="V6" extra="(Stand)" stars="**">Stand start the arete and climb to the top. A good alternative if you find you can't do the opening move to the previous problem.</problem>
<problem id="232" name="Unnamed" number="3" grade="V2" extra="(Stand)">Start on a rail at head/chest height and angle up and leftwards to top out in the corner</problem>
<image id="227" src="Duck Reach boulder 4.jpg" width="500" height="388"/>
<problem id="209" name="The Slip" number="1" grade="V4/5" extra="(SDS)" stars="**">At the right hand end of the Skidrow buttress is a low roof with a crack splitting it. Start at the a crimp and a good slot at the left hand end of the crack and traverse it right around the corner to finish on a good ledge above.</problem>
<problem id="210" name="The Slip extention" number="1b" grade="V7" extra="(SDS)" stars="*">Climb the slip but keep traversing the crack right until you get to the corner and make a few moves up to finish on good holds above. This finish isn't great with the boulder behind, so unless your really after more climbing the better option would be to just climb to the original finish.</problem>
<problem id="228" name="Unnamed" number="2." grade="V5" extra="(Stand)">Start with hands matched on the juggy part of the horizontal crack with smearing feet and move up the vertical seem to end on a large flake jug and step off.</problem>
<text id="215">The Next boulders is farther along upriver below the route climb called "Seize the Day" down closer to the water</text>
<image id="211" src="Duck Reach boulder 5.jpg" width="500" height="375"/>
<problem id="212" name="Pineapple Tree Traverse " number="1." grade="V7/8" extra="(SDS)" stars="*">Start low on the corner with a LH sidepull and a RH crimp. Move up and right to a small point and continue on past crimps and slopers to finish as for problem #2</problem>
<problem id="213" name="Pineapple Tree" number="2." grade="V4" stars="**">Start under the small roof on an undercling and a slopey block hold just below. Climb straight up to finish.</problem>
<problem id="229" name="Unnamed" number="3." grade="V3/4" extra="(Hang)">On the boulder just right of Pineapple Tree, start on a large rail at about chest height. move leftwards to the arête and top out</problem>
<problem id="230" name="7 Minute Abs" number="4." grade="V10" extra="(SDS)" stars="***">Just right of the previous problem is an undercut roof facing up river. Start RH on the lowest good undercling/sidepull in the roof, LH squeezing the left face at about the same height (~250cm below the divot), and feet on the detached 'diving board' boulder below the actual roof block. Pull hard compression moves requiring quite a bit of core tension to gain a jug over the lip, followed by an easier top out. Probably a little more interesting exercise for developing that 6-pack you always wanted than doing sit-ups, but that's a matter of opinion. Climbing this without using the protruding boulder for feet would easily bump the grade up 2 or 3 numbers.</problem>
<image id="214" src="Duck Reach boulder 6.jpg" width="500" height="375"/>
<problem id="216" name="Unnamed" number="1." grade="V2" extra="(SDS)" stars="**">Start on a good low jug and move up and slightly right and top out over the roof.</problem>
<problem id="217" name="Unnamed" number="2." grade="V4" extra="(SDS)" stars="**">Start on the right corner with a RH sidepull crimp and a LH crimp just below the steep part. Move up past a small crimp and top straight out over the roof.</problem>
<text id="219">There are a couple climbable boulders on the opposite (River-left) side just below the power station. You can rock hop across when the water is low, or use the suspension bridge.</text>
<image id="218" src="Duck Reach boulder 7.jpg" width="500" height="666"/>
<problem id="220" name="Limited Edition" number="1." grade="V9" extra="(Highball, SDS)" stars="**">Start matched on the large crack/ledge at move out right to som crimps. Make a big move back right to a slanting crimp rail and then dyno for a jug up over the top. If you miss the dyno your liable to take a nasty fall down into a hole. The first ascentionist filled this potential hazard in with logs and branches before covering it with pads, Unfortunately floods and 12 year old kids who like playing with sticks seemed to make short work of his efforts, so there's a good chance you may have to rebuild the landing.</problem>
<problem id="221" name="Leave it to Beaver" number="2." grade="V8" extra="(SDS)" stars="**">Start as for Limited Edition but continue left to reach the corner. Then move up this past crimp sidepulls to a committing move to reach the jug. The fall from this isn't as potentially hazardous as its neighbour, thus the engineering background helpful in landing modifications is less of a factor.</problem>
<problem id="234" name="Sudoku" number="3" grade="V8" extra="(SDS)" stars="*">About 20m upstream of the Limited Edition boulder, just in front of a corner in the power station is a large boulder face protruding out of the building. Sit start just right of the arete on a LH sidepull, RH triangular edge, and horrible feet. Move up to a large ledge, then head left around the arete to gain a thin crack to top out. Might want to bring your pencil and notepad, this is quite a technical problem.</problem>
</guide>
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