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Guide
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<guide><header
        access="Cleverly positioned so you can fit in at least two or three nightmare epics after work. The Quarry is on Waterworks Road (surprise) between Lynton Ave and Romilly Street in Dynyrne. Travel south along Davey Street (B64) heading for Ferntree (Mt Wellington), over the lights at the end of the Southern Outlet, and turn L at the first roundabout on Huon Road down Lynton Avenue. Turn R at the bottom of the steep hill into Waterworks Road, the cliff is about a km further on on the LH side. After some debate as to whether they would close the cliff to climbers due to safety issues, the Hobart Council in their wisdom decided instead to clear the old quarry floor for parking, erect a fence along the cliff line, and even install a child-proof gate - plus of course the usual warning notices etc. We are in their debt!"
        acknowledgement="by John Domeney, originally published in Craglets. Updated by Tony McKenny, Dec 2007"
        guide.action="submit" guide.id="0" guide.page="0"
        guide.type="header" history=""
        intro="A rock is a rock they say, but if you think bolted routes take the adventure out of climbing then it’s time you paid a visit to the birthplace of the world’s next fad: choss climbing! Take one tottering pile of exfoliating rubble, add wide-eyed climbers with psychotic hammer drills and shares in Ramset. The result: a multitude of good routes carefully engineered so that every ascent is a first ascent i.e. all the holds break all the time. The procedure for doing new routes is as follows. Put on a blindfold, rap down, drilling at random. Carry a sack of rocks to place on holds so that every ascentionist gets a “unique” experience and every belayer gets a discount lobotomy. Remember, leading is the way to go here as the only other access to the chains is by jumping off the top and grabbing them on the way past. &lt;br/>If you haven't got the message, the rock here is loose, and small and large chunks can and do come off - be warned."
        name="Waterworks Quarry" new="false"
        rock="Slabby, chossy, quarried dolerite" sun="Afternoon sun"
        walk="30 seconds"/><image new="false" noPrint="false"
        src="Waterworks1.jpg" width="700"></image><climb><climb extra="" grade="17"
       grade="17" length="7m" name="Justin’s Crack" new="false" number="1."
       number="1." stars=""
        value="The thin line to the S-shaped crack 20m left of Twilight Groping. One old carrot bolt, take a bracket, and possibly some trad gear for the crack.Justin Kennedy.">The thin line to the S-shaped crack 20m left of Twilight Groping. One old carrot bolt, take a bracket, and possibly some trad gear for the crack.Justin Kennedy.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="2"
        guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="7m"
        name="Spiderman’s Arsehole" new="false" number="2." stars=""
        value="Start just right of Justin’s Crack . Follow a small shallow crack on tweaky holds, clipping the carrot bolt on Justin’s Crack. The crux starts at the second bolt (again, no bracket). Jon Tiller, Nov 1991.">Start just right of Justin’s Crack . Follow a small shallow crack on tweaky holds, clipping the carrot bolt on Justin’s Crack. The crux starts at the second bolt (again, no bracket). Jon Tiller, Nov 1991.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="12" guide.action="submit" guide.id="3"
        guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="12m"
        name="Twilight Groping" new="false" number="3." stars="*"
        value="Classic face climbing. The route is found just left of the nightmare descent from the top of Bastard Cancer. 3 BRs plus lower off (ignore the old bolts to L and R). Richard Marshall, May 1989.">Classic face climbing. The route is found just left of the nightmare descent from the top of Bastard Cancer. 3 BRs plus lower off (ignore the old bolts to L and R). Richard Marshall, May 1989. </climb><image
        new="false" noPrint="false" src="Waterworks2.jpg"
        width="700"/><climb extra="Þ" grade="12" guide.action="submit"
        guide.id="4" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="8m"
        name="Five Four" new="false" number="" stars=""
        value="Start 10m left of Bastard Cancer. One old bolt, no bracket, and a single bolt lower off....hmmmm. Jon Tiller, Aug 1993.">Start 10m left of Bastard Cancer. One old bolt, no bracket, and a single bolt lower off....hmmmm. Jon Tiller, Aug 1993.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="5"
        guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m"
        name="Death Unto Racists" new="false" number="4." stars=""
        value="Start 2m left of Bastard Cancer. 3 carrots (take brackets)  plus lower off. Jon Tiller, Aug 1993.">Start 2m left of Bastard Cancer. 3 carrots (take brackets)  plus lower off. Jon Tiller, Aug 1993.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="21" length="15m" name="Bastard Cancer"
        new="false" number="5." stars="*"
        value="The arete left of the big slab. Most ascents start up the corner to the immediate right (17). 2 carrot bolts (no brackets) plus small wires higher up on the easier ground. Richard Marshall, Feb 1987."> The arete left of the big slab. Most ascents start up the corner to the immediate right (17). 2 carrot bolts (no brackets) plus small wires higher up on the easier ground. Richard Marshall, Feb 1987.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="7"
        guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m"
        name="Phantom Stone Thrower" new="false" number="6." stars="*"
        value="Start 3m right of Bastard Cancer. Tricky slab climbing, moving L into the groove at the very top. 5 BRs plus lower off.Jon Tiller, Sep 1993.">Start 3m right of Bastard Cancer. Tricky slab climbing, moving L into the groove at the very top. 5 BRs plus lower off.Jon Tiller, Sep 1993.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="24" guide.action="submit" guide.id="8"
        guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m"
        name="Les Grands Ensembles" new="false" number="7." stars=""
        value="Starts 5m to the R of Phantom Stone Thrower, and follows a line of 7 BRRs up to the chain at the top of TdF (the last bolt is not visible from the ground). Richard Cockerill, May 2000.">Starts 5m to the R of Phantom Stone Thrower, and follows a line of 7 BRRs up to the chain at the top of TdF (the last bolt is not visible from the ground). Richard Cockerill, May 2000.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="26/27" guide.action="submit" guide.id="9"
        guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m"
        name="Tour de France" new="false" number="8." stars=""
        value="The line of bolts (7) up the big slab 2m R of LGS. A well known test piece, originally bolted by Justin Kennedy and Richard Marshall circa 1987 but not climbed free until 1994! Difficult last clip, hanger missing off the first bolt.. Hamish Jackson, Sep 1994.">The line of bolts (7) up the big slab 2m R of LGS. A well known test piece, originally bolted by Justin Kennedy and Richard Marshall circa 1987 but not climbed free until 1994! Difficult last clip, hanger missing off the first bolt.. Hamish Jackson, Sep 1994.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="11"
        guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m"
        name="Serial Driller" new="false" number="9." stars="***"
        value="Magic climbing. Follow the steel to the right of Tour. Start at the layback crack and trend L at the top to the chain in the middle of the face. 9 BRs. John Domeney, Dec 1993.">Magic climbing. Follow the steel to the right of Tour. Start at the layback crack and trend L at the top to the chain in the middle of the face. 9 BRs. John Domeney, Dec 1993.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="12"
        guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m"
        name="Open Festering Wounds" new="false" number="10." stars="**"
        value="Start as for Serial Driller. Move right at the third bolt and up past six more to a chain. John  Domeney, Jan 1994.">Start as for Serial Driller. Move right at the third bolt and up past six more to a chain. John  Domeney, Jan 1994.</climb><image
        new="false" noPrint="false" src="Waterworks3.jpg"
        width="700"/><climb extra="Þ" grade="23" guide.action="submit"
        guide.id="13" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m"
        name="Sequels of the Light" new="false" number="11." stars="*"
        value="The route finishes at a she-oak with a difficult slab move or two.. 4 BRs plus lower off.Evan Peacock, Dec 1992.">The route finishes at a she-oak with a difficult slab move or two.. 4 BRs plus lower off up high. Evan Peacock, Dec 1992.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="23" guide.action="submit" guide.id="14"
        guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m"
        name="Pathetic Nongs Steal Hangers, Yes I’m Talking to You Arsehole"
        new="false" number="12." stars="**"
        value="4 bolts up the groove 4m left of TWMD. A.Rosa, Oct 1992.">4 bolts up the groove 4m left of TWMD. Very nice, balancey, climbing. A.Rosa, Oct 1992.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="14"
        guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m"
        name="Oh Joyous Lobotomy" new="false" number="13." stars="*"
        value="&quot;A route in the classic tradition of Waterworks Quarry. A route that will warm the hearts and minds of repeat ascentionists, chill them to the bone and make them sick to their stomachs. &lt;br/>This route epitomises its creators hedonistic and sociopathic style and is a textbook case of man against rock, rock against gravity and gravity against the combined forces of Ramset and Ryobi. &lt;br/>The first bolt, with its stark placement and uncompromising height off the deck, deftly describes mans inhumanity to man. It is also a vivid phallic symbol graphically outlining the first ascentionists subconscious insecurity about the size of his bit. The moves up the wall above form an abstract modern dance that brings to mind images of East European conflict especially the side-pull which is the key to reaching the third bolt and a new round of Geneva peace talks. A man will always return to old stomping grounds and search for his roots; pulling up on the crucial razor sharp undercut one can almost feel them. The heady aroma of vast African plains drifts tantalizingly through ones nostrils and momentarily the mists of time part, you run, then walk, then crawl back down the evolutionary chain until an apelike heave sends you scurrying up and over the crux. You pause to appreciate the moment and the true symbolism of the metaphor, but a glance at the vacant expanse looming high to the left tells you the best is still to come&quot;. John Domeney, Sep 1993. Many have puzzled over this eclectic description, but most have scratched their heads and abandoned their search for the elusive climb, believing it to be a complete figment of John's fertile imagination. The best bet is you traverse L after the 3rd bolt on TWMD, and surmount the overlap via another (hidden) bolt over the lip to the lower-off. Enjoy!">&quot;A route in the classic tradition of Waterworks Quarry. A route that will warm the hearts and minds of repeat ascentionists, chill them to the bone and make them sick to their stomachs. 
This route epitomises its creators hedonistic and sociopathic style and is a textbook case of man against rock, rock against gravity and gravity against the combined forces of Ramset and Ryobi. 
The first bolt, with its stark placement and uncompromising height off the deck, deftly describes mans inhumanity to man. It is also a vivid phallic symbol graphically outlining the first ascentionists subconscious insecurity about the size of his bit. The moves up the wall above form an abstract modern dance that brings to mind images of East European conflict especially the side-pull which is the key to reaching the third bolt and a new round of Geneva peace talks. A man will always return to old stomping grounds and search for his roots; pulling up on the crucial razor sharp undercut one can almost feel them. The heady aroma of vast African plains drifts tantalizingly through ones nostrils and momentarily the mists of time part, you run, then walk, then crawl back down the evolutionary chain until an apelike heave sends you scurrying up and over the crux. You pause to appreciate the moment and the true symbolism of the metaphor, but a glance at the vacant expanse looming high to the left tells you the best is still to come&quot;. John Domeney, Sep 1993. Many have puzzled over this eclectic description, but most have scratched their heads and abandoned their search for the elusive climb, believing it to be a complete figment of John's fertile imagination. The best bet is you traverse L after the 3rd bolt on TWMD, and surmount the overlap via another (hidden) bolt over the lip to the lower-off. Enjoy!</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="16"
        guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m"
        name="Trad Wankers Must Die" new="false" number="14." stars="**"
        value="Looks like a pile of choss particulary in the region near the overlap.  In fact it is quite safe. Climb up the loose pedestal and through shattered rock to a move R at the third bolt on to more solid ground. . 4 BRs plus lower off. J.Domeney, S.Stojanovski, Oct 1992.">Looks like a pile of choss particulary in the region near the overlap.  In fact it is quite safe. Climb up the loose pedestal and through shattered rock to a move R at the third bolt on to more solid ground. . 4 BRs plus lower off. J.Domeney, S.Stojanovski, Oct 1992.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="23" guide.action="submit" guide.id="17"
        guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m"
        name="Urban Renewal" new="false" number="15." stars="**"
        value="Harder than it looks and prone to spitting climbers off like flies. Start immediatly to the R of TWMD. Straight up the corner diagonally left, finishing up Trad Wankers. 5 U bolts plus lower off. Evan Peacock, Dec 1992.">Harder than it looks and prone to spitting climbers off like flies. Start immediatly to the R of TWMD. Straight up the corner diagonally left, finishing up Trad Wankers. 5 U bolts plus lower off. Evan Peacock, Dec 1992.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="18"
        guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m"
        name="Drilling in the Name of" new="false" number="16."
        stars="*"
        value="Start up Urban Renewal to the third BR, move right past 2 more to finish at the Jesus chain. John Domeney, Dec 1993.">Start up Urban Renewal to the third BR, move right past 2 more to finish at the Jesus chain. John Domeney, Dec 1993.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="19"
        guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m"
        name="Resurrection" new="false" number="17." stars="*"
        value="Takes a line between DITNO and Jesus, covering the line of another route that fell down.... . Climb to the 3rd bolt of Jesus and trend L past 2 more BR to finish as for DITNO. OCCG (Old Codgers Climbing Group) 2005">Takes a line between DITNO and Jesus, covering the line of another route that fell down.... . Climb to the 3rd bolt of Jesus and trend L past 2 more BR to finish as for DITNO. OCCG (Old Codgers Climbing Group) 2005 .</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="19"
        guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m"
        name="Jesus Built My Hammer Drill" new="false" number="18."
        stars="**" value="The cliff classic, a chameleon of a route, changing all the time. The grade is anything from 14 to 20, presently about 17-18. At the RH end of the climbable rock are 4 Us plus lower off. John Domeney, Oct 1992.">The cliff classic, a chameleon of a route, changing all the time. The grade is anything from 14 to 20, presently about 17-18. At the RH end of the climbable rock are 4 Us plus lower off. John Domeney, Oct 1992.</climb></guide>