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Guide
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  <header id="1" walk="25 min steep uphill" sun="Morning sun" rock="Dolerite buttresses from 80º to vertical" name="Lowdina" intro="Only a short drive from Hobart, Lowdina is a good crag which has much to offer the trad-climber, especially during the cold winter months.  Due to its sheltered north-easterly aspect, it is often dry and warm here when everywhere else is wet.  The rock quality is generally very good and the crag provides a wide-selection of interesting, demanding and worthwhile problems, each with their own unique flavor.  Of note, are the number of quality well-protected routes for the beginning trad-leader, unique and thought-provoking face climbs (§), classy moderates, and several test-pieces (including Australia’s first grade 23).  There is very limited potential for sport climbing development here and the ethic at this crag remains traditional - natural protection is used where-ever possible (down to #2 RP placements), even if the majority of a climb is bolted.  In general, it is best to stick to a 100 m section of cliff on any given day, as walking the cliff line from side-to-side is somewhat arduous.  Climbs are listed in the guide from the left-hand side of the cliff to the right.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;In 2021 the crag has had somewhat of a revival due to the work of a few dedicated climbers. They noted that some of the routes had become overgrown and lichenous, and many of the walk-offs were semi-suicidal.  After some serious brushing and installation of numerous lower-offs, the crag has had a much needed face-lift and again provides an excellent option for trad-climbers. A number of new climbs have been added recently, but the focus remains on ensuring existing climbs are not impinged upon, ensuring any bolts are well away from existing lines (further away than has been observed on the organ pipes for example).  Be warned that the route grading on this cliff is generally pretty solid - reflecting an old-school attitude for leaders.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Many BR&apos;s are carrots unless noted otherwise, so bring plates.  Many of the old carrots seem to be in very good condition, and limited load testing of a few bolts (7KN outwards for 5 mins) has confirmed this.  However, not all carrots have been tested, so more caution should be exercised than when falling on bolts at Sand River.  A general approach is to scratch the bolt if it is slightly rusted, and if the scratch reveals shiny metal, then this degree of rust may in-fact make the carrot stronger!  Some old pitons are also still in-situ - back up where possible." history="Peter Jackson discovered the cliff around 1968 putting up the first routes with Rob McMahon, Michael McHugh, John Moore and Mendelt Tillema. Peter also published the 1st guide in the early 1970s with about 30 routes containing his signature sketches (for history buffs: you can access the original copy of this in the State Library Reading Room). Between the late eighties and early nineties activity at Lowdina was intense. Most of the harder routes were done during this period, many of them by Evan Peacock, Garn Cooper and Al Adams. Martin Stone updated the original guide in the mid-eighties but it soon became outdated. Evan Peacock and Colin Reed published a further update in 1992. Since Autumn 2021, the crag had a resurgence in popularity, and most routes have been cleaned and anchors installed for easy descent from the best buttresses, with the guide consistently being updated.  Evan and Colin&apos;s annotation of routes with a symbol (§) has been retained to indicate the need for small wires (RP&apos;s) and micro-cams." guide.type="header" guide.page="0" guide.id="0" guide.action="submit" acknowledgement="by Evan Peacock, originally published in Craglets.  2021 update and crag revival undertaken by Hamish Jackson, Christoph Speer and Martin Brown." access="Special provisions are required to visit this cliff - the following advice has been updated June 2021 after conversations with the landowners. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;The cliff lies on private land, and the owner, N and R Bevan are happy for people to climb here as long as the following process in adhered to.  Contact the Bevans at least a a few hours prior to your trip: texting is preferred on 0418 604 286, but you can also call them on their mobile, or land line 6260 4286. They are very friendly people. In the text msg you send  include who is visiting, when, and in what car, and finally reassure them that you will drop off the printed waiver form on the way through (a pdf version is loaded at the bottom of this guide - print this out and fill in the details in clear handwriting).  Please take caution to not damage any of the fences as you traverse the fields.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Drive from Richmond and through Campania towards Colebrook. About 4.2km from the Campania Pub and 150m before the turnoff to Lowdina Rd, check into &quot;Westfield&quot; a driveway to a property on the left hand side and place the complete waiver form underneath the front doormat.  Then exit Westfield -  turn back onto the main road - and then turn left again into Lowdina Road. Follow the gravel road, parking at the railway line.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Cross the train tracks and head up to the base of the hill. If you can spot the white-streaked rock this is Bismark Buttress and a good landmark in the centre of the cliff from which to get your bearings on your first trip.  If you make your way to the fence-line at the bottom of the hill, directly in-front of the Bismark Buttress, a pink/green tape-marked track can be located.  From here:&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;- For the Bismark Buttress, follow the pink-taped track.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;- For the Greenknowe Buttress, follow the green-taped track.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;- Follow the orange-taped track along the base of the cliff-line for the path of least resistance when moving between buttresses.  However, for access to the far left or right end, it is much easier to walk along the fields at the base and then head up to your chosen project, rather than traverse the hill-side (the tracks here are still pretty rough)." camping="There is basic camping at Colebrook Park near the Craigbourne dam (10 mins NW of Lowdina), and Campania Flour Mill Campground 10 mins SE of Lowdina. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Please DO NOT camp on the Lowdina property itself." autonumber="true"/>
  <gps id="193">
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    <point pid="3" description="Lowdina Road Parking" latitude="-42.63147" longitude="147.42409" easting="534772" northing="5280021" zone="55G"/>
    <point pid="4" description="Spook Fright" latitude="-42.63108" longitude="147.41427" easting="533967" northing="5280068" zone="55G"/>
    <point pid="5" description="Topless Buttress" latitude="-42.62957" longitude="147.41383" easting="533932" northing="5280236" zone="55G"/>
    <point pid="6" description="Bismark Buttress" latitude="-42.63428" longitude="147.41648" easting="534147" northing="5279712" zone="55G"/>
    <point pid="7" description="Greenknowe / Papillon Buttress" latitude="-42.63313" longitude="147.41619" easting="534124" northing="5279840" zone="55G"/>
    <point pid="8" description="Vulpecula Buttress" latitude="-42.63777" longitude="147.41703" easting="534190" northing="5279324" zone="55G"/>
    <point pid="9" description="Tormentil Buttress" latitude="-42.63663" longitude="147.41663" easting="534158" northing="5279451" zone="55G"/>
    <point pid="10" description="Scarnhorst Buttress" latitude="-42.63840" longitude="147.41746" easting="534225" northing="5279254" zone="55G"/>
    <point pid="11" description="Stung Buttress" latitude="-42.63501" longitude="147.41586" easting="534096" northing="5279631" zone="55G"/>
    <point pid="12" description="Ferio Buttress" latitude="-42.63587" longitude="147.41629" easting="534130" northing="5279535" zone="55G"/>
    <point pid="13" description="Chocolate / Albatross Area" latitude="-42.63380" longitude="147.41593" easting="534102" northing="5279765" zone="55G"/>
    <point pid="14" description="Rudge Area" latitude="-42.63301" longitude="147.41579" easting="534091" northing="5279853" zone="55G"/>
    <point pid="15" description="Start of Pink/Green Taped Track" latitude="-42.63384" longitude="147.42004" easting="534439" northing="5279759" zone="55G"/>
    <point pid="16" description="Mick Goes to Moonah Buttress" latitude="-42.63720" longitude="147.41656" easting="534152" northing="5279388" zone="55G"/>
    <point pid="17" description="Zundapp Alcove" latitude="-42.63529" longitude="147.41616" easting="534120" northing="5279600" zone="55G"/>
    <point pid="18" description="Delinquents Area" latitude="-42.63623" longitude="147.41631" easting="534132" northing="5279495" zone="55G"/>
    <point pid="19" description="Anzac Day Buttress" latitude="-42.63733" longitude="147.41678" easting="534170" northing="5279373" zone="55G"/>
    <point pid="20" description="Twilight Zone" latitude="-42.63463" longitude="147.41579" easting="534090" northing="5279673" zone="55G"/>
    <point pid="21" description="Virag Buttress" latitude="-42.63413" longitude="147.41621" easting="534125" northing="5279729" zone="55G"/>
    <point pid="22" description="Wailing Wall" latitude="-42.63172" longitude="147.41525" easting="534047" northing="5279997" zone="55G"/>
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  <image id="239" src="Overview.jpg" height="900" width="1200">
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  <text class="heading3" id="157">Scharnhorst Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="3">Scharnhorst Buttress is at the far left hand end of the crag immediately before the the hillside turns to the south and into a gully. Beyond the gully the cliff-line peters out. Approaching from the right, the buttress is about 80m left of a narrow scree slope.</text>
  <climb id="4" name="Scharnhorst" fa="Karl Prinz, Kevin Kiernan, Mary McWhirther, Feb 1975." stars="" number="1." length="15m" grade="12" extra="">Scharnhorst is the furthest left hand climb on the crag. The route climbs a groove, that continues up a contoured crack through a small roof. It roughly finishes up the nose of the buttress. Avoid the loose slabs on the left near the top.</climb>
  <climb id="5" name="Blackheads and Beauty Spots" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Tim Olding, Aug 1988." stars="" number="2." length="15m" grade="16" extra="§">Start in the alcove 6m right of Scharnhorst, off the top of the pillar. Step across and up to the ledge below the flake. Go up the right hand crack, then move left and up past the right hand edge of the flake, finishing up the crack.</climb>
  <climb id="6" name="Drugs on Sunday" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Aug 1988." stars="" number="3." length="12m" grade="16" extra="§">Start 8m right of Scharnhorst on the ledge below the brushed slab. Step up for the slope above, continue up to the next sloping ledge, then up the flake to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="7" name="Better Get A Bucket" fa="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Nov 1991." stars="*" number="4." length="18m" grade="24" extra="§">Bold face climbing with a technical finish. Start immediately left of The Spastic Acrobat on the left hand side of the arête. Climb to the horizontal at 3m (and place gear!) then launch for the bolt (hoping your belayer jumps downhill if you fall off clipping). Finish through the small roof on the left.</climb>
  <climb id="8" name="The Spastic Acrobat" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Aug 1988." stars="**" number="5." length="15m" grade="20" extra="§">About 20m right of Scharnhorst; or 50m left and 30m downhill from Punks and Lepers. Look for a smooth, grey face split by a horizontal break near the top. Start just right of the obvious crack, and go straight up the face to a small ledge. Continue up on small holds and layaways to the horizontal, then crank through to the finger crack (lichenous) and the top.</climb>
  <climb id="9" name="Seagull" fa="Mary McWhirther, Kevin Kiernan, Karl Prinz, Feb 1975." stars="" number="6." length="15m" grade="10" extra="">An isolated pinnacle lies between Vulpecula and Scharnhorst buttresses. Climb the crack that forms a sweeping s-curve up the right hand side of the buttress.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="158">Vulpecula Buttress</text>
  <text id="198" class="text">Vulpecula Buttress protrudes down the hill about 20m left of the narrow scree slope</text>
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  <climb id="10" name="Vulpecula" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="9" guide.action="submit" fa="Kevin Kiernan, Karl Prinz, Mary McWhirther,Feb 1975." stars="" number="7." length="30m" grade="11" extra="">From the base of the buttress, climb the nose past loose flakes to a broad ledge. Scramble on up the blocky ledges, then finish up the obvious slab on the left hand side.</climb>
  <climb id="11" name="Punks and Lepers" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Nov 1988." stars="***" number="8." length="22m" grade="22" extra="§">About 10m right and uphill of Vulpecula is a face with a horizontal break at 4m. Climb to the break, then up the face to a flared crack (RP placements appear 3.5m above the horizontal break), then up the crack to the top.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;One of the outstanding and more challenging examples of the classic Lowdina face climbing style: great rock, great moves, on spaced but good RPs. One set of RPs #2-5 essential, doubles of size 2 and 3 serves well. With nesting of RPs at the crux, and an attentive belayer while the nest of RPs goes in, the climb can be onsighted fairly 'safely' (despite appearances).</climb>
  <climb id="290" stars="**" extra="§" number="9." name="Scaredy Cat" length="22m" grade="21" fa="Martin Brown, Hamish Jackson, Aug 2021">The crack-line right of Punks and Lepers is a fine companion route. Climb easily up the lower crack to the top of the pedestal; then climb up the thin continuation crack. Small cams and RPs provide adequate protection at the crux - brass offsets handy but not essential. Finish up the short corner above to the anchors on P &amp; L.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="159">Anzac Day Buttress</text>
  <text id="199" class="text">Anzac Day Buttress is located 50m left and up from Finn Buttress. A line of buttresses that extend downhill appear 25m before reaching the narrow scree slope, when approaching from the right.</text>
  <image id="230" src="Torque Arm" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Anzac Day Buttress LHS">
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      <climb>12</climb>
      <climb>13</climb>
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  <climb id="12" name="Torque Arm" fa="Dave Humphries, John Buttery, Jul 1984." stars="" number="10." length="15m" grade="16" extra="">This route climbs the wall which forms the left hand side of the Ape chimney. Gain the corner-groove just off the ground and climb up it, passing right of the small roof. Cross left into the groove and climb this until able to move right into the crack and to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="13" name="Ape" fa="Chris Viney, Brendan Moore, Apr 1972." stars="" number="11." length="20m" grade="10" extra="">Located 7m left of Anzac Day on a small buttress topped by a prominent 4m flake. Climb the narrow flaring chimney immediately to its left.</climb>
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      <climb>14</climb>
      <climb>15</climb>
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  <climb id="14" name="Anzac Day" fa="Dave Humphries, John Buttery, Jul 1984." stars="**" number="12." length="20m" grade="18" extra="">Has seen off more campaigns than Gallipoli. Start at the base of the left hand side of the lowest buttress, climb the slabby face for 5m, and then up to the 1m roof via a short crack. Move out right around the roof and up the wall above to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="15" name="Lejand" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="14" guide.action="submit" fa="Jeremy Rackham, Anna Hasan, Apr 1992." stars="" number="13." length="12m" grade="15" extra="">We are all striving to be one, aren't we? Start on the left hand arête below the roof 2m right of Anzac Day. Climb the arête and crack above, trending to a large ledge. Move left to regain the arête, then up the right hand side of the wall to the top.</climb>
  <text id="244" class="heading3">Mick Goes to Moonah Area</text>
  <text id="233" class="text">The next set of climbs are located in a small amphitheatre between and above the Anzac Day and Finn Buttresses.</text>
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      <climb>16</climb>
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      <climb>18</climb>
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  </image>
  <climb id="16" name="Mick Goes to Moonah" fa="Dave Humphries, John Buttery, Jul 1984." stars="***" number="14." length="15m" grade="18" extra="§">Thought provoking and delicate. Just left of the amphitheatre between Finn and Anzac Day buttresses is a groove up the nose of a buttress. Follow it to the horizontal break, then continue more easily to the top and DBB lower-off.</climb>
  <climb id="17" name="Chook Fever" fa="Dave Humphries, John Buttery, Jul 1984." stars="**" number="15." length="15m" grade="17" extra="">Fist jammers apply within! 2m right of Mick Goes to Moonah is a clean crackline up yellowish rock on the right hand side of the buttress. Jam through the bulge and up for 3m, move out right and up the fist crack for 3m, then finish up the corner to the left and DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="18" name="Miss Right Body" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="17" guide.action="submit" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Nic Deka, May 1986." stars="*" number="16." length="20m" grade="16" extra="">Worth a sneaky look. Start about 3m right of Chook Fever and climb the face, finishing up the fist crack.</climb>
  <image id="235" src="Jot Jot Splat" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Jot Jot Splat Buttress">
    <drawing>
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      <path id="19936" points="386.0,734.0, 395.0,443.0, 411.0,314.0, 420.0,142.0, 421.0,115.0,belay" d="M386.0,734.0C389.6,617.6 391.9,494.9 395.0,443.0C398.1,391.1 406.7,365.8 411.0,314.0C415.3,262.2 419.5,152.8 420.0,142.0C420.5,131.2 420.6,125.8 421.0,115.0" linkedTo="21"/>
      <path id="53035" points="308.0,732.0, 307.0,482.0, 327.0,317.0, 347.0,194.0, 370.0,93.0,belay" d="M308.0,732.0C307.6,632.0 304.0,548.4 307.0,482.0C310.0,415.6 320.1,366.4 327.0,317.0C333.9,267.6 339.2,234.7 347.0,194.0C354.8,153.3 360.8,133.4 370.0,93.0" linkedTo="20"/>
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    <legend>
      <climb>19</climb>
      <climb>20</climb>
      <climb>21</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="19" name="Boys in Bikinis" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="18" guide.action="submit" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Jun 1988." stars="*" number="17." length="15m" grade="18" extra="§">Probably not a good look! Start 8m right of Chook Fever beneath a roof at 2m. Pull through the roof on the left hand side, then up layaways and back right to a fixed pin above the roof. Finish up the wee bulges above.</climb>
  <climb id="20" name="What Bunny Likes Best" fa="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, May 1992." stars="*" number="18." length="15m" grade="22" extra="§">The face between Boys in Bikinis and Jot Jot Splat. Climb up past a bolt runner (FH) and several wires. Somewhat contrived trying to stay out of Jot Jot Splat.</climb>
  <climb id="21" name="Jot Jot Splat" fa="Evan Peacock, May 1990." stars="" number="19." length="15m" grade="15" extra="">A hand to fist crack that opens up towards the top. Start in the recess just right of Boys in Bikinis. The problem can be bridged all the way.</climb>
  <image id="267" src="casuarinacrack1.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Casuarina Crack">
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    <legend>
      <climb>246</climb>
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  <climb id="246" stars="*" extra="" number="20." name="Casuarina Crack" length="20m" grade="10" fa="Christoph Speer, Martin Brown, July 2021">A fantastic climb for a beginner trad leader. Located between Jot Jot Splat and the top of the Tormentil Buttress on the same contour, is an obvious hand crack to the right of a large She-oak tree. Follow the well protected crack and rap-off trees at top. Alternatively, you can walk down the 'pleasure gully' to the left.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="160">Finn Buttress</text>
  <text id="202" class="text">Finn is located on a separate buttress of its own about 25m left of Tormentil Buttress. The buttress has a series of blocky towers as prominent features.</text>
  <climb id="22" name="Finn" fa="Robert McMahon, Peter Jackson, Chris Viney, 1969." stars="" length="25m" grade="8" extra="" number="21.">From the block at the base of buttress, follow the weakness straight up the nose which steepens at the top.</climb>
  <text id="201" class="heading3">Tormentil Buttress</text>
  <text id="203" class="text">Tormentil Buttress is located to the right of the Finn and Anzac Day Buttress, and about 60m left of Oisin Buttress. From Oisin, traverse left and down to the next buttress system that protrudes down the hill. There is a DBB / Rap Station at the top of Tormentil and Tim's Excuses.</text>
  <image id="236" src="Tormentil.jpg" height="600" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Tormentil Buttress">
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      <path id="77763" points="72.0,533.0, 105.0,453.0, 137.0,389.0, 172.0,342.0, 199.0,306.0, 231.0,241.0, 250.0,199.0, 259.0,176.0, 273.0,149.0," d="M72.0,533.0C85.2,501.0 93.2,479.1 105.0,453.0C116.8,426.9 124.9,409.1 137.0,389.0C149.1,368.9 161.2,356.4 172.0,342.0C182.8,327.6 189.9,321.5 199.0,306.0C208.1,290.5 223.1,257.6 231.0,241.0C238.9,224.4 246.1,208.1 250.0,199.0C253.9,189.9 254.9,185.0 259.0,176.0C263.1,167.0 264.1,157.3 273.0,149.0" linkedTo="24"/>
      <path id="5367" points="160.0,460.0, 251.0,293.0, 288.0,219.0, 322.0,192.0,belay" d="M160.0,460.0C196.4,393.2 235.5,322.2 251.0,293.0C266.5,263.8 278.0,233.2 288.0,219.0C298.0,204.8 308.4,202.8 322.0,192.0" linkedTo="25" lineStyle="dotted"/>
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    <legend>
      <climb>23</climb>
      <climb>24</climb>
      <climb>25</climb>
      <climb>26</climb>
      <climb>27</climb>
      <climb>28</climb>
      <climb>29</climb>
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  </image>
  <climb id="23" name="Bumbly" fa="Peter Jackson, Lyle Closs, May 1971." stars="**" number="22." length="25m" grade="10" extra="">Go left around the base of the buttress and uphill to where an obvious ledge leads back right towards the nose. Follow the ledge then climb the crack to the ledge above Cromlech. Finish up the broken crack above, or via the nose on the left.</climb>
  <climb id="24" name="Tim&apos;s Excuses" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Sep 1991." stars="**" number="23." length="25m" grade="19" extra="">Start just left of Cromlech. Climb the crack with lots of runners, finishing through the small roof (crux) to DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="25" name="Cromlech" fa="Robert McMahon, Peter Jackson, Chris Viney, 1969." length="18m" grade="13" extra="" number="24." stars="">Start a few metres to the left of Tormentil. Climb the chimney which is loose at first and awkward in spots.</climb>
  <climb id="26" name="Tormentil" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="25" guide.action="submit" fa="Peter Jackson, Robert McMahon, Chris Viney, 1969.1969." stars="*" number="25." length="15m" grade="9" extra="">Climb the smooth curving right-facing corner crack, located just to the right of the base of the buttress. One of the original routes at Lowdina.</climb>
  <climb id="27" name="Humber" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Sep 1991." stars="*" number="26." length="15m" grade="15" extra="§">Climb the face 1m right of Tormentil. The key runner placement requires some thought but is bomber.</climb>
  <climb id="28" name="Garage Sale" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Sep 1991." stars="" number="27." length="12m" grade="17" extra="">Start about 15m right of Humber on a slab, just past a roof-capped mini-buttress. Climb the left hand of the two lines, finishing up the hand crack.</climb>
  <climb id="29" name="Little Black Balls" fa="Colin Reed, Evan Peacock, Sep 1991." stars="" number="28." length="12m" grade="11" extra="">A good introductory route that takes the line just right of Garage Sale.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="161">Delinquents Area</text>
  <text id="277" class="text">A series of large buttresses located uphill and to climbers right of the Tormentil Buttress.</text>
  <climb id="30" name="Maggot On A Brick" fa="Garn Cooper, Richard Bottomley, Lucas Bottomley, Anna Hasan, May 1991." stars="**" number="29." length="8m" grade="22" extra="">The short sheltered face about 30m L of Daytime Delinquents just above The Naughty Bottom Burp. The climb has 2 bolts and three cruxes that get progressively easier.</climb>
  <climb id="31" name="The Naughty Bottom Burp" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Roger Parkyn, Jun 1990." stars="" number="30." length="12m" grade="20" extra="§">Start about 20m L of Rogering the Rock on a small separate buttress with a clean face line and chockstone filled chimney on the R , and at a sag bush. Climb up to the ledge on the LH side and a #2RP, then continue back R to the horizontal break. Climb up the sloping ledge and a knifeblade runner, then up to the top and loose blocks.</climb>
  <image id="316327" src="DaytimeR DelinquentsRock App.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Daytime Delinquents Buttress">
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    </drawing>
    <legend>
      <climb>32</climb>
      <climb>33</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="32" name="Rogering the Rock" fa="Roger Parkyn, Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Jun 1990." stars="*" number="31." length="20m" grade="20" extra="1 Carrot Bolt">The result of some rather vigorous cleaning techniques... Start immediately left of Daytime Delinquents on a wide angles orange corner below a roof. Climb the corner past a BR on the R , then trend left to a large ledge, before finishing up the arête.</climb>
  <climb id="33" name="Daytime Delinquents" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="32" guide.action="submit" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Dec 1984." stars="*" number="32." length="14m" grade="17" extra="§">Desperately in need of a brush. About 40m left of Oisin is a separate buttress with a conspicuous roof at 5m. Follow the crack to the roof, through it tentatively and then up the lichenous RH line above.</climb>
  <image id="317328" src="Squeaky FeetApp.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Little Squeaky Feet Wall">
    <drawing>
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    <legend>
      <climb>34</climb>
      <climb>35</climb>
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  <climb id="34" name="Little Squeaky Feet" fa="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Al Adams, Colin Reed, Dec 1991." stars="**" number="33." length="22m" grade="23" extra="§">Proves camalots are better than friends! Even with the dodgy #1 camalot, this is one of the more serious leads amongst many at Lowdina. Start about 15m uphill from Something Scurrilous is a leftward trending RP crackline on the south face (the first RP is placed off the tree branch!). Follow the seam up the overhanging wall, past the infamous camalot placement and a couple more 'interesting' pieces. A good line, but is slightly marred by a step left into the gully/crack that is all too tempting during the desperate crux section at half height.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;DBB at top.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <image id="318329" src="SomethingScurrilous ScurrillousApp.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Something Scurrilous Buttress">
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    </drawing>
    <legend>
      <climb>35</climb>
      <climb>36</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="35" name="Something Scurrilous" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="34" guide.action="submit" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Jun 1990." stars="***" number="34." length="25m" grade="19" extra="§ 1FH">A colourful and action-packed experience. Start 25m left of Oisin and 20m right of Daytime Delinquents, at a prominent buttress with a she-oak at its base. Climb the left side of the face behind the tree to a ledge at 4m. Continue up the central crack and bulge to a stance and fixed hanger. Climb the shallow groove to the handcrack (crux) to gain a ledge. Hand traverse under the large block out right then mantle awkwardly to gain its top. Finish up the thin crack to the top of the pinnacle.</climb>
  <climb id="36" name="Mega Smegma" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Roger Parkyn, Jun 1990." stars="" number="35." length="25m" grade="16" extra="">Start at the weakness 3m right of Something Scurrilous. Climb the line to the bulge and pull through it on layaways. Continue up the tight handcrack to where it veers right. Continue up using a layaway edge and move L out into the chimney. Continue up the easy chimney and clamber across the void.</climb>
  <climb id="37" name="Genetic Junk Yard" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Colin Reed, Dec 1991." stars="" number="36." length="25m" grade="16" extra="§">Start on the downhill prow of the Catoblepas buttress, on a brushed slab. Climb easily up the slab to the roof, through this (RP runner) and continue easily.</climb>
  <climb id="38" name="Catoblepas" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="37" guide.action="submit" fa="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Simon Stubbs, Oct 1988." stars="" number="37." length="20m" grade="14" extra="">About 10m L of Oisin is another large buttress. The line starts in a widish crack on the RH side of the buttress, then trends L onto the eastward facing side. Continue straight up with the crux at the top.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="162">Oisin Buttress</text>
  <text id="314" class="text">The large buttress with an obvious crack (Oisin) running through the nose.</text>
  <image id="319330" src="Oisin goodApp.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Oisin Buttress">
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      <path id="368" points="452.0,300.0, 416.0,257.0, 381.0,194.0, 330.0,132.0, 288.0,80.0,belay" d="M452.0,300.0C439.5,281.4 428.5,275.6 416.0,257.0C403.5,238.4 397.3,217.7 381.0,194.0C364.7,170.3 346.9,152.7 330.0,132.0C313.1,111.3 304.8,100.8 288.0,80.0" lineStyle="dotted340.0, 453.0,301.0, 382.0,201.0, 371.0,168.0, 291.0,78.0,belay" d="M587.0,558.0C587.8,558.0 589.3,558.7 589.0,558.0C588.7,557.3 559.4,496.9 546.0,470.0C532.6,443.1 526.0,428.6 512.0,403.0C498.0,377.4 484.0,355.5 475.0,340.0C466.0,324.5 463.0,315.9 453.0,301.0C443.0,286.1 389.3,212.8 382.0,201.0C374.7,189.2 379.3,179.2 371.0,168.0C362.7,156.8 323.0,114.0 291.0,78.0" linkedTo="40"/>
    </drawing>
    <legend>
      <climb>39</climb>
      <climb>40</climb>
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  <climb id="39" name="Oisin" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="38" guide.action="submit" fa="Robert McMahon, Peter Jackson, Chris Viney, 1969." stars="**" number="38." length="20m" grade="11" extra="">The flakes on the R should be treated with care, as should the possum. Contour L from Bismark to the third buttress line which protrudes downhill to that level. The buttress rises from an elevated flat platform and has a narrow chimney on its R. From the platform, climb the obvious straight crack to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="40" name="Mulliners Code" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="39" guide.action="submit" fa="Peter Jackson, Bob deCesare, Jan 1981." stars="*" number="39." length="20m" grade="16" extra="">A major disappointment once you have done the flake. Climb the crack up the LHS of a flake 3m R of Oisin (of dubious attachment). Either continue up the dirty gully above, or move L and climb the RH edge of the delicately stacked flakes just R of Oison.</climb>
  <climb id="41" name="Maelstrom" fa="Evan Peacock, Aug 1988." stars="" number="40." length="20m" grade="18" extra="">The slightly overhanging problem just R of Mulliner's Code. Climb up into the small sentry box until the line joins the aforementioned then continue up that line.</climb>
  <image id="320331" src="AlekinesAlehkines DefenseApp.jpg" height="525" width="700" legend="true" legendTitle="Alekhines Defence Buttress">
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    <legend>
      <climb>42</climb>
      <climb>43</climb>
      <climb>44</climb>
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  <climb id="42" name="Ploughman&apos;s Launch" fa="Evan Peacock, Sep 1989." stars="" number="41." length="20m" grade="18" extra="">The line just L of the Alekhine's Defence buttress. Climb the arête on large holds to the horizontal break at 4m and runners. Continue up Mulliner's Code.</climb>
  <climb id="43" name="Gecko" fa="Adrian Herington, Doug Bruce, 1985." stars="*" number="42." length="12m" grade="19" extra="§">The less ugly variant of the two. The direct start and finish of Alekhine's Defence.</climb>
  <climb id="44" name="Alekhines Defence" fa="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Oct 1984." stars="*" number="43." length="12m" grade="19" extra="§">Has sent a few people away empty-handed over the years. The face 5m right of Mulliner's Code. Climb the face trending diagonally L from the bottom RH corner.</climb>
  <text id="243" class="heading3">Ferio Buttress</text>
  <text id="278" class="text">Located in a recess to climbers right of the Oisin Buttress are some great routes. You can rappel from a tree at the top of the routes on the LHS of the buttress, and there is a DBB located above Ferio.</text>
  <image id="321332" src="BikesFerio dontLHS flyApp.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Ferio Buttress LHS">
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    </drawing>
    <legend>
      <climb>45</climb>
      <climb>46</climb>
      <climb>47</climb>
      <climb>48</climb>
      <climb>49</climb>
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  </image>
  <climb id="335" stars="" extra="4 FH" number="44." name="Unknown route" length="20m" grade="?" fa="Unkown project / FA (Not described in original EP guide)">The undescribed, unnamed and unknown route up the overhanging wall to the left of Electric Exercise Bike.</climb>
  <climb id="45" name="Electric Exercise Bike" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Oct 1984." stars="**" number="4445." length="15m" grade="18" extra="">Beats any workout available at the gym! About 5m L of The Ants Pants is a narrow chimney. Follow the groove up the face 2m L of this. Face climb to the sentry box at half height, then follow the crack to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="46" name="Liars and Losers" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, May 1990." stars="**" number="4546." length="15m" grade="20" extra="§ - 2 Carrot Bolts">A quality route, starting at the base of the LH arête of the Bicycles Don't Fly buttress. Climb to the small roof, reach over for a RP runner before continuing and more RP's. Mantle to a BR, then continue up the arête, before a final step L to a friend pocket and the tree belay.</climb>
  <climb id="47" name="Bicycles Don&apos;t Fly" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Aug 1985." stars="**" number="4647." length="15m" grade="17" extra="§">Want a bet? Starts just left of The Ants Pants taking the line through the overlap up the middle of the face. Despite looks, there is good natural protection.</climb>
  <climb id="48" name="The Ants Pants" fa="Bob Bull, John Moore, Apr 1971." stars="" number="4748." length="15m" grade="13" extra="">The crack up the face of the buttress 5m L of Ferio. Jam the crack to the overhang, then directly to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="49" name="Don&apos;t Jolt That Bolt" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Sep 1985." stars="**" number="4849." length="22m" grade="18" extra="1FH">Can be trickier for the not-so-tall. Right of the Ants Pants is a face route equipped with a bolt and monster hanger. Start out right then move to an undercut left, then straight through past the bolt on some choice moves.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Editors Note 2021: Bolt &amp; hanger is in a rusty state. Best to inspect before clipping.</climb>
  <image id="229" src="IMG20210530153026.jpg" height="600" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Ferio Buttress RHS">
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    <legend>
      <climb>49</climb>
      <climb>50</climb>
      <climb>51</climb>
      <climb>52</climb>
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  <climb id="50" name="Ferio" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="49" guide.action="submit" fa="Peter Jackson, Michael McHugh, Di Batten, Jan 1971." stars="**" number="4950." length="12m" grade="17" extra="">A must-do if in the area. Follow's the obvious finger-width corner crack. Starting at the base, layback to a resting spot on the L wall below where the crack narrows. Continue lay-backing up the increasingly thin crack above, and finish directly up the steep corner to the DBB lower-ff.</climb>
  <climb id="51" name="Tall Dudes" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="50" guide.action="submit" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Jun 1988." stars="" number="5051." length="12m" grade="21" extra="§">Excellent climbing but essentially unprotected, a very worthwhile route to do on top-rope after clipping the anchors on Ferio. A mongrel of a start now that a key hold has been pulled off. Takes the line up the R wall of Ferio. Starts in a shallow groove and gains a small ledge. Continue up the LH side of the arête to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="52" name="Picnic in the Front Room" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Steve Ford, Steve Carter, Jan 1990." stars="**" number="5152." length="15m" grade="22" extra="§">Follows the incipient crack 3m R and around the corner from Tall Dudes. Follow the fused crack until it ends - the crux in protected with a #0 friend. Step L and finish up Tall Dudes.</climb>
  <text id="288" class="heading3">Directissimo Man Area</text>
  <text id="289" class="text">The next routes are located between the Ferio Buttress and the Zundapp Alove.</text>
  <image id="322325" src="DirectissimoDirect Man App.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Directissimo Man Buttress">
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      <rect id="22939754" x="515478" y="11397" width="71117" height="3622" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="Cryptic Clue&lt;br/&gt; Buttress" arrowDirection="south"/>
      <rect id="8528678021" x="160159" y="144140" width="80" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="Ferio Buttress" arrowDirection="south"/>
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    <legend>
      <climb>50</climb>
      <climb>53</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="53" name="Directissimo Man" fa="Al Adams, Jul 1984." stars="" number="5253." length="8m" grade="12" extra="">Climbs the nose of the second buttress line which protrudes downhill left of Bismark and about 40m R of Oisin. From the base of the flat rock platform, climb the obvious crack and face holds to the top.</climb>
  <problem id="54" name="Fadel" fa="Colleen McCullough, Noel Ferrier, Jun 1990." stars="" number="54." grade="V1" extra="">The boulder problem immediately L of Cryptic Clue (past the chimney).</problem>
  <image id="323333" src="Cryptic Clue App.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Cryptic Clue Buttress">
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    <legend>
      <climb>55<<climb>54</climb>
      <climb>56<<climb>55</climb>
    </legend>   <<climb>56</image>climb>
  <problem id="54" name="Fadel" fa="Colleen McCullough, Noel Ferrier, Jun 1990." stars="" number="53." grade="V1" extra="">The boulder problem immediately L of Cryptic Clue (past the chimney).</problem> </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="55" name="Cryptic Clue" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Oct 1988." stars="*" number="5455." length="10m" grade="22" extra="1 Carrot Bolt">Another utterly contrived test piece. Uphill in the gully L of Mr Queasy is a blank looking wall broken by a horizontal at about 7m. Climb the face on the LH side of the wall using a bolt and a pin for protection (still there in Oct 2021) - but the LH arête is out of bounds! There are two loose blocks at the top, though they are keyed in.</climb>
  <climb id="56" name="Anagram" fa="Evan Peacock, Al Adams, Oct 1988." stars="*" number="5556." length="10m" grade="21" extra="§">The face to the R of Cryptic Clue. Start of the RH edge, on face moves. Mantle up onto some slopes, stand, place RP's, then follow the incipient crack to the horizontal break. Finish straight up on good face holds.</climb>
  <climb id="57" name="Ode to a Robotic Arm" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Jun 1990." stars="" number="5657." length="15m" grade="19" extra="M1 §">Across the small gully right of Anagram is a brushed face with a thin crackline starting at half height. Climb the easy crack to a ledge and a #2RP aid move (or if you have a robotic arm climb it free via a desperately wide pinching layaway - awaiting a FFA). Clip the BR from a small edge, then continue up to a horizontal break and easy ground once the crack is attained.</climb>
  <climb id="58" name="Toes and Thumbs" fa="Greg Aimer, Chrissy Freestone, 1991." length="12m" grade="13" extra="" number="5758." stars="">Left of Mr Queasy. Follow the corner/crack system to the ledge and tree.</climb>
  <image id="324" src="Mr Queasy.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Mr Queasy">
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      <rect id="36499" x="78" y="180" width="110" height="44" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="Through notch to &lt;br/&gt;Zundapp Alcove" arrowDirection="south_west"/>
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    <legend>
      <climb>59</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="59" name="Mr Queasy" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Simon Stubbs, Bruce Newman, Sep 1988." stars="" number="5859." length="12m" grade="18" extra="">Go down the notch mentioned in Konked Out for 5m and on the L is a short handcrack. Belay at the eucalypt and climb the crack to the horizontal break. Surmount the bulge above for a slightly queasy experience, then reach through to a large ledge.</climb>
  <climb id="60" name="Konked Out" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Jul 1988." stars="" number="5960." length="12m" grade="16" extra="">At the beginning of the notch is a prominent slab on the uphill side. Climb the slab to the ledge, then up the groove and through the bulge on the R.</climb>
  <text id="286" class="heading3">Zundapp Alcove</text>
  <text id="287" class="text">This area covers the Zundapp Alcove and immediate surrounds.</text>
  <image id="285" src="Zundapp area.jpg" height="600" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Zundapp Alcove">
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      <rect id="12297" x="478" y="146" width="85" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="Stung Buttress" arrowDirection="south"/>
      <rect id="97150" x="599" y="180" width="115" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="Perchance to Dream" arrowDirection="south"/>
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    <legend>
      <climb>61</climb>
      <climb>62</climb>
      <climb>63</climb>
      <climb>64</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="61" name="Zundapp" fa="Evan Peacock, Al Adams, Jul 1988." stars="**" number="6061." length="20m" grade="18" extra="§">About 11m L and downhill of Paunch is an alcove with a dirty chimney up the LH side. Start 1m R, and continue up the brushed face with incipient cracks. Continue through the bulge and slab above, to finish up the R side of a small roof which leads to a short corner.</climb>
  <climb id="62" name="Sundy Mockry" fa="Evan Peacock, May 1990." stars="" number="6162." length="12m" grade="13" extra="">The obvious crackline finger sized crack-line about 5m R of Zundapp. Best enjoyed as a first pitch to access Paunch.</climb>
  <climb id="63" name="Paunch" fa="Peter Jackson, Mendelt Tillema, Feb 1971." stars="" number="6263." length="10m" grade="12" extra="">About 25m L of Stung and across a grass gully is a high buttress with a tree at its base and rounded orange "paunch" at half-height. Climb the crack through the bulges up the RH side of the buttress. Best enjoyed as a second pitch from Sundy Mockry.</climb>
  <image id="225" src="Paunch.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Paunch Buttress" legendFooter="From &apos;Fat and Married&apos;">
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    <legend>
      <climb>62</climb>
      <climb>63</climb>
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  </image>
  <text class="heading3" id="163">Stung Buttress</text>
  <text id="279" class="text">Located to climbers right of the Zundapp Alcove and about 100 left and uphill of the Spazattack / Wetcheck Area. A nice selection of moderately-graded, classic Lowdina-style face climbs as well as some pleasant crack climbs.</text>
  <image id="224" src="Fat and married.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Fat and Married Buttress">
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    <legend>
      <climb>65</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="65" name="Fat and Married" fa="Evan Peacock, Tim Olding, Aug 1988." stars="**" number="6364." length="15m" grade="18" extra="§">Lug your lard up this baby! Start at the big ledge that overlooks a grassy gully at the extreme LH end of Stung buttress. Climb the arête using layaways on the RHS then cross L and continue up the face to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="64" name="No Corruption" fa="Russ Hinze, Terry Lewis, 1975 - 1998." stars="*" number="6465." length="12m" grade="12" extra="">Found below Fat and Married on an isolated buttress. The route takes the obvious crack up the centre. Well protected, a good route for a beginner trad leader.</climb>
  <climb id="66" name="Get Out Oscar" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Tim Albion, Oct 1990." stars="" number="6566." length="12m" grade="17" extra="§">Starts about 4m R of Fat and Married and just R of a chimney. A couple of unprotected but easy moves lead to a crack and bomber RP protection. Continue straight up.</climb>
  <image id="293" src="Timewarp2.jpeg.jpg" height="792" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Stung Buttress">
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    <legend>
      <climb>67</climb>
      <climb>68</climb>
      <climb>69</climb>
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  <climb id="67" name="Stung" fa="Chris Dawson, May McWhirther, Sep 1974." stars="" number="6667." length="15m" grade="10" extra="">To locate Stung Buttress from Spazattack move uphill to the L and across the gully for 100m to a short face looking directly downhill with a dead She-oak atop. About 5m L of an obvious corner groove (Jesus Trousers) is a chimney. In between is a crack which begins at a flake at half height and finishes at a tree. Climb the R wall to the flake, then finish up the crack.</climb>
  <climb id="68" name="Jesus Trousers" fa="Phil Steane, Pete Steane, Noel Ward, Doug Fife, Oct 1982." stars="*" number="6768." length="12m" grade="15" extra="">Hand-jam and bridge up the obvious corner-groove. Take care with the large flake. Step right to DBB lower off.</climb>
  <climb id="69" name="Time Warp" fa="Pete Steane, Doug Fife, Noel Ward, Oct 1982. Var: Nat Duhig, Mike Edwards, Nov 1986." stars="**" number="6869." length="12m" grade="18" extra="§">Quintessential Lowdina face climbing. The thin crack up the face just R of Jesus Trousers. Make sure you bring a good selection of RP's and microcams. Step onto the face from the R and up the crack trending L using layaways, face holds and wishful thinking. A short variant starts from the base of the buttress, trends R slightly and rejoins the original route. DBB Lower-off.</climb>
  <text id="294" class="heading3">The Twilight Zone</text>
  <text id="295" class="text">Located about 50 m to the right of the Stung Buttress are a series of faces / buttresses adjacent to a gully.</text>
  <image id="315" src="Perchance.jpg" height="666" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Twilight Zone">
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    <legend>
      <climb>307</climb>
      <climb>70</climb>
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  <climb id="307" stars="" extra="" number="6970." name="Nightmare at 10,000 mm" length="10 m" grade="13" fa="Christoph Speer, Henry Garrett, August 2021">Climb the obvious clean corner crack to the left of Perchance to Dream. A worthwhile warm-up. DBB Lower-off.</climb>
  <climb id="70" name="Perchance to Dream" fa="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Pete Steane, Dec 1984." stars="***" number="7071." length="20m" grade="18" extra="§">A highly entertaining move onto the perched block! Starts up an unlikely looking face and poised above is a block attached to a gently overhanging arête. Walk-off to climbers left down gully.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="164">Spazattack Buttress</text>
  <text id="269" class="text">Located uphill and to climbers left of Bismark Buttress. There is a DBB / rap-station above Hooter that can be used to descend from the climbs in this area.</text>
  <image id="222" src="Wetcheck Area.jpg" height="600" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Spazattack / Wetcheck Area">
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    <legend>
      <climb>71</climb>
      <climb>72</climb>
      <climb>73</climb>
      <climb>74</climb>
      <climb>75</climb>
      <climb>77</climb>
      <climb>78</climb>
      <climb>80</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="71" name="Spazattack" fa="Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Oct 1984." stars="**" number="7172." length="18m" grade="18" extra="§">Editors Note 2021: Needs a bit of a clean but looks great.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Climbs the big buttress 10m L of Wetcheck, passing the prominent roofs on the L. Just left of a thin R trending crack in the middle of the buttress (Spazattack Direct) is a groove line. Climb this to the horizontal break, then up the grooves above to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="72" name="Spazattack Direct" fa="Top Rope: Evan Peacock, Justin Kennedy, Oct 1985. FFA: Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Jun 1990." stars="" number="7273." length="18m" grade="23" extra="§">Takes the R trending crack in the middle of the Spazattack buttress, then straight up Spazattack.</climb>
  <climb id="73" name="Drury Line" fa="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Feb 1992." stars="*" number="7374." length="25m" grade="20" extra="§">Editors note 2021: Originally a 3 star route and a great looking line, it cannot be highy recommended at present as the starting solo to 8m is too lichenous - the rest of the route is clean. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Once tried many years ago by Blockhead, but he gave up after breaking a drill. Tackles the roof R of Spazattack. The route is marked by guano courtesy of the local falcon. Climb the obvious easy face (no pro) to the horizontal break, then up to the first roof and a BR. Trend L to a groove and then straight up.</climb>
  <climb id="74" name="Being A Pirate" fa="Evan Peacock, Sep 1992." stars="*" number="7475." length="20m" grade="26" extra="4Þ">Good rock, but the upper bolted line ventures very close to R chimney. The overhanging arête 3m R of Drury Line. A desperate techno-slab, followed by a strenuous journey up the arête around the roof. 4 FH's (some bolts rusted - inspect before clipping).</climb>
  <climb id="75" name="Hooter" fa="Peter Jackson, Noel Ward, Doug Bruce, 1984." stars="***" number="7576." length="20m" grade="17" extra="§">A Jackson classic and a strong contender for best moderate route at the crag. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;From the foot of Wetcheck move L onto the face of the buttress with a good 4/5 RP or 0.3 camelot in R crack at 4 m. Follow the rising traverse across a thin flake (run-out but fun) to the horizontal crack and a piton runner (rusted but still usable 2021 - back up with cam). Continue straight up the thin vertical crack-line (crux) to an easy mantle and pleasant crack to the top. DBB lower-off.</climb>
  <climb id="76" name="Grasshopper Island" fa="Evan Peacock, Tim Albion, Colin Reed, 1992." stars="*" number="7677." length="20m" grade="15" extra="§">The companion to Hooter. Easier but perhaps more bold, and a typically good Lowdina face route. Takes the RH line, bristling with runners (except for a 4m runout in the middle section).</climb>
  <climb id="77" name="Wetcheck" fa="John Moore, Peter Jackson, Aug 1970." stars="" number="7778." length="20m" grade="13" extra="">About 10m L and uphill from Bismark is a small bay with a couple of chimneys. L of the chimneys and facing out is a straight wide crack. Climb it.</climb>
  <climb id="78" name="Mrs Malaprop" fa="Evan Peacock, Al Adams, Grant Rowbottom, Aug 1992." stars="" number="7879." length="15m" grade="17" extra="§">The slab/face in the alcove just R of Wetcheck. Nice moves, but the runners are dubious (all wires).</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="165">Bismark Buttress</text>
  <text id="240" class="text">Probably the first part of the cliff you'll come to. There's a suite of routes on this buttress and a DBB / Rap station at the top of Bismark.</text>
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  <climb id="79" name="V8 Donk" fa="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Feb 1992." stars="" number="7980." length="25m" grade="18" extra="§">Start immediately L of Hood on a ledge about 10m up. Gain the ledge from the L and climb to the horizontal break. Crux to the small ledge, then follow the #1 RP crack, before a mantle to easier ground.</climb>
  <climb id="80" name="Hood" fa="Michael McHugh, Robert McMahon, 1968." stars="***" number="8081." length="30m" grade="16" extra="">The original route at Lowdina. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Start as for Bismark for 2m, then hand jam L onto the nose. Continue to the base of the wide crack, which is followed for 6m until able to step L onto the face. From the good foothold gain the wide crack above, and continue to the chimney and mantelshelf finish. Use rap-station at the top of Bismark or Hooter for descent.</climb>
  <climb id="81" name="Subvert the Dominant Paradigm" fa="Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, 1986." stars="*" number="8182." length="25m" grade="15" extra="">Follows the crackline 1m L of Bismark. Finish R at the roof (second climbed through at grade 18).</climb>
  <climb id="82" name="Bismark" fa="Michael McHugh, Peter Jackson, 1968." stars="**" number="8283." length="25m" grade="15" extra="">The landmark for finding everything else here. Look for the conspicuous white bird-poo stain on the large orange coloured buttress in the centre of the crag. The initial 10m of easy rock can be avoided. Up the crack in the prow to the bulge and around it using small holds on the nose. Continue past the small rooves and bridge the chimney to the top. DBB Lower-off.</climb>
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  <climb id="83" name="Doug&apos;s Rat Roxanne" fa="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Jun 1991." stars="*" number="8384." length="15m" grade="22" extra="§ - Carrot Bolts">Climb the overhanging orange face R and round the arête from Bismark, past 2 BR's (Carrots).</climb>
  <climb id="84" name="Felix" fa="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Grant Rowbottom, Aug 1992." stars="**" number="8485." length="15m" grade="18" extra="§ - Carrot Bolts">Steep but on big holds, up the arête between Doug's Rat Roxanne and Motorcycle Mama, past 1 Carrot Bolt and 1 FH. Use Bismark Buttress Rap-station for descent.</climb>
  <climb id="85" name="Motorcycle Mama" fa="Evan Peacock, May 1990." stars="" number="8586." length="15m" grade="11" extra="">A typical example of the Lowdina scene. Start of the LH wall of a wide gully just L of Illegal Move. Follow the well protected crack (careful of loose rock at the top). Use Bismark Buttress Rap-station for descent.</climb>
  <climb id="86" name="Illegal Move" fa="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Sep 1985." stars="*" number="8687." length="12m" grade="19" extra="">Start immediately R of the Bismark ledge. A bouldery start leads to the crux at 7m (bolt protected). Continue up the finger crack, to finish with a haul over the chockstone. Use Bismark Buttress Rap-station for descent.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Editors Note 2021: In need of a brush.</climb>
  <climb id="87" name="Otto Sausages" fa="Evan Peacock, Grant Rowbottom, Steve Ford, Aug 1992." stars="*" number="8788." length="12m" grade="18" extra="§">A nice climb on RP's just R of Illegal Move. Climb the thin crack to a horizontal break - careful of the hanging block on the L. Use Bismark Buttress Rap-station for descent.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Editors Note 2021: In need of a brush.</climb>
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  <climb id="296" stars="*" extra="3Þ - FH" number="8889." name="Ukiyo-e" length="8m" grade="21" fa="H Jackson and M Brown July 2021">Start at bottom left of the Bonsai wall. Up the centre of the wall, using left arete as needed, then finish up left arete to the crux at the top.</climb>
  <climb id="88" name="Bonsai" fa="Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson, Apr 1990." stars="**" number="8990." length="8m" grade="24" extra="3Þ - FH">Located up the gully left of the Virag Buttress and R of Illegal Move, where a clean orange/gray face stands at the head of the gully.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Original: From the bottom L of the face, climb boldly up the line of face holds past a #3 RP to BR and unusual crux move on upper arete (originally dynoed on the arete (desperate), but static variants just left of arete are easier). &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Now: 2 more bolts added with permission of FA. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;DBB.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Variant: start on the bottom R of the face, place a small cam in seam and move up seam to join the original line at the second bolt.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="166">Virag Buttress</text>
  <text id="238" class="text">A fantastic buttress located about 30 uphill and right of Bismark Buttress. A DBB / Rap Station is located at the top of Virag for descent from the climbs.</text>
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      <climb>92</climb>
      <climb>93</climb>
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  <climb id="89" name="Squawk" fa="Evan Peacock, Al Adams, Oct 1988." stars="*" number="9091." length="23m" grade="17" extra="§">Named for the falcons who nested near here in the late 80's. Start immediately L around the corner from Ungar. Follow the thin fused crack through the series of ledges - face climb, mantle, face climb, mantle ... finishing up the wide crack.</climb>
  <climb id="90" name="Ungar" fa="John Moore, Peter Jackson, Sep 1970." stars="**" number="9192." length="25m" grade="17" extra="">Refresh your crack technique! About 30m uphill and R of Bismark is a buttress with three distinctive cracklines. Ungar is the LH line. Up the wide crack, through the overhang, then continue easily then strenuously through an orange bulge to a foothold. Gain the ledge on the L via a hidden sidepull, then move R onto the nose and on to the top. Take care with the large chockstone at the top.</climb>
  <climb id="91" name="Plastacine Thylacine" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Steve Ford, May 1990." stars="***" number="9293." length="25m" grade="22" extra="5FH">One of the best looking lines at the cliff - now more approachable since some extra bolts have been added with permission from FA. Originally a bold lead with two carrot bolts and some RP placements that were unusually difficult to place on lead. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Start on the platform 3m L and downhill from Virag, at the base of the bulging face/arete. Climb boldly up the seam in the bulge to FH, then continue up arete using holds on R wall (crux), to the horizontal break (0.3 camelot). Weave up upper face past small wire and 3 FH, before exiting R to easy wide crack which is followed into Virag.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Gear: a few draws, one long draw, small wires or RPs, plus a few cams between 0.3 and 2 camelot size.</climb>
  <climb id="92" name="Virag" fa="Michael McHugh, Peter Jackson, Jan 1971." stars="***" number="9394." length="25m" grade="17" extra="">Varied and excellent. Climb the initial corner and bridge out onto the jammed block. Up into the wide crack to reach the salvation of a face hold on the LH edge (crux). Follow the shallow corner to the roof, then swing L and up to finish at DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="93" name="Wolfetone" fa="Robert McMahon, Peter Jackson, Nov 1969." stars="***" number="9495." length="25m" grade="18" extra="">The thin layback corner R of Virag has been known to spit people out indiscriminately. Climb the awkward corner/crack to a difficult exit onto the R wall. Lay off tight fingers and smear gingerly upward to the security of a small stance (crux). Power up the crack above and finish through the chimney to the DBB lower off. A short finishing variant exists by climbing the face directly to the anchor instead of using the chimney (easy but run-out).</climb>
  <climb id="96" name="Mr Whimpy" fa="Noel Ward, Peter Jackson, Jul 1984." stars="*" number="9596." length="14m" grade="16" extra="§">From Wolfe Tone move along to the second small buttress just R. Climb straight up the front of the buttress on flakes to the ledge on the R edge. Clip the fixed peg, then move back L onto the face of the summit block and up to finish.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Editors Note 2021: In need of a brush.</climb>
  <image id="205" src="IMG20210201170929.jpg" height="533" width="400" legend="true" legendTitle="A Salted Battery">
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      <path id="8269" points="237.0,80.0, 269.0,71.0, 315.0,4.0," d="M237.0,80.0C241.7,74.6 259.5,80.3 269.0,71.0C278.5,61.7 296.6,30.8 315.0,4.0" lineStyle="dashed"/>
    </drawing>
    <legend>
      <climb>94</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="94" name="A Salted Battery" fa=" Evan Peacock, Grant Rowbottom, Sep 1992." stars="*" number="9697." length="10m" grade="25" extra="Þ">The very steep face route on the back of Wolfetone. Start L of Baby Animals and climb up past 2 FH (stick clip the first). Good fun!&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;No lower-off. Best to continue up the Wolftone chimney and belay at the Virag anchor.</climb>
  <text id="275" class="heading3">The Gully</text>
  <text id="276" class="text">The Gully Area covers routes located between the Virag and Sweetie Buttress.</text>
  <climb id="95" name="Baby Animals" fa="Lucas Bottomley, Richard Bottomley, Anna Hasan, Apr 1991." length="8m" grade="16" extra="§" number="9798.">From Fruitless contour around L for about 20m to some largish boulders and a small face cleaned by rockfall. Climb the crack (small wires), with an interesting crux for short runts.</climb>
  <image id="226" src="Fruitless 2.jpg" height="667" width="500" legend="true" legendTitle="Fruitless Buttress">
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    </drawing>
    <legend>
      <climb>97</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="97" name="Fruitless" fa="Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Sep 1984." stars="*" number="9899." length="12m" grade="18" extra="§">From Mr Whimpy move R and up the gully for 20m to a roundish buttress opposite Sweetie, with a small yellow roof halfway up. Climb the face of the buttress for 6m to the ledge below the roof, move L round it, then back R to the crack and the top.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Editors Note 2021: In need of a brush.</climb>
  <image id="218" src="Bumper Crop.jpg" height="533" width="400" legend="true" legendTitle="Bumper Crop">
    <drawing>
      <path id="25653" points="132.0,505.0, 201.0,230.0, 214.0,158.0, 220.0,99.0, 236.0,57.0,belay" d="M132.0,505.0C159.6,395.0 194.3,258.5 201.0,230.0C207.7,201.5 210.6,181.5 214.0,158.0C217.4,134.5 216.2,116.6 220.0,99.0C223.8,81.4 229.6,73.8 236.0,57.0" linkedTo="98"/>
    </drawing>
    <legend>
      <climb>98</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="98" name="Bumper Crop" fa="Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Sep 1984." length="10m" grade="12" extra="" number="99100." stars="">Climbs the short orange corner at the top of Fruitless. Best done as a companion line with Old Mans Hands.</climb>
  <image id="207" src="Old man hands.jpg" height="667" width="500" legend="true" legendTitle="Old Mans Hands">
    <drawing>
      <path id="60931" points="244.0,543.0, 253.0,500.0, 265.0,429.0, 268.0,364.0, 271.0,320.0, 287.0,230.0,belay" d="M244.0,543.0C247.6,525.8 249.8,517.3 253.0,500.0C256.2,482.7 262.1,454.9 265.0,429.0C267.9,403.1 267.0,381.6 268.0,364.0C269.0,346.4 268.5,337.5 271.0,320.0C273.5,302.5 280.6,266.0 287.0,230.0" linkedTo="99"/>
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    <legend>
      <climb/>
      <climb>98</climb>
      <climb>99</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="99" name="Old Man&apos;s Hands" fa="Stuart Scott, Adrian Herington, 1981." length="8m" grade="9" extra="" number="100101." stars="">The small handcrack past a bulge about 15m R and up a gully from Fruitless. Start on the LH side of the gully just before a huge boulder. Best done as a companion line with Bumper Crop.</climb>
  <climb id="100" name="Good O&apos;s From Heaven" fa="Evan Peacock, Mar 1990." length="10m" grade="25" extra="Þ Carrot Bolts" number="101102." stars="">The face immediately L and around the corner from Surprise Surprise and protected with a bolt.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Editors Note 2021: Currently overgrown and hidden by a tree at the base of the route</climb>
  <climb id="101" name="Surprise, Surprise" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Nov 1989." length="12m" grade="22" extra="3Þ Carrot Bolts" number="102103." stars="">Harder than it looks. Uphill and L of Sweetie and behind that buttress is a brushed slab protected by two bolts. The climb is directly opposite Old Mans Hands, across the gully. Climb easily to the first bolt, then move up R to a small scoop. After the second bolt move up to another bolt then the top. Walk-off.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Editors Note 2021: In need of a brush.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="167">Sweetie Buttress</text>
  <text id="273" class="text">An impressive looking buttress located about 50 m to climbers right and uphill of Virag Buttress, just right of The Gully.</text>
  <image id="209" src="Sweetie Buttress.jpg" height="1067" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Sweetie Buttress">
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    </drawing>
    <legend>
      <climb>102</climb>
      <climb>103</climb>
      <climb>104</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="102" name="Acerb" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Nov 1989." stars="***" number="103104." length="20m" grade="22" extra="§ - Þ Carrot Bolts">Traverse L to the arête past a BR. Up this to a shallow groove and another BR and the base of a sloping roof. Traverse out R (airy) on underclings to finish up Sweetie.</climb>
  <climb id="103" name="Onklunk" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, May 1990." stars="**" number="104105." length="20m" grade="26" extra="§ - Þ Carrot Bolts">The direct start to Sweetie, and great climbing in a super location - but needs more cleaning at the crux to make it approachable ground up. Start as for Acerb but go R. Clip the first BR of the lip of the roof, then launch out R (technical) to a stance and the second BR. Trend back L and climb up on side-pulls and a tiny foothold (crux) to jugs, to finish up Sweetie.</climb>
  <climb id="104" name="Sweetie" fa="Peter Jackson, Mendelt Tillema, Mar 1971." stars="" number="105106." length="20m" grade="12" extra="">Was once a *** classic, but can not be recommended in it's current overgrown state. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Climbs the wide crack on the R of the buttress. At the ledge, hand traverse out L along the thin crack to the vertical crack, then follow this. Just below the top, finish up the rib to the R.</climb>
  <text id="241" class="heading3">Chocolate Area</text>
  <text id="242" class="text">A good selection of crack and face climbs in the small recess to the right of the Sweetie Buttress. A DBB / Rap station exists at the top-out above chocolate.</text>
  <image id="257" src="Chocolate" height="600" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Chocolate Area">
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      <path id="78290" points="262.0,510.0, 276.0,421.0, 301.0,325.0, 308.0,268.0, 308.0,219.0, 315.0,188.0, 330.0,165.0, 341.0,144.0," d="M262.0,510.0C267.6,474.4 268.6,456.3 276.0,421.0C283.4,385.7 296.3,347.5 301.0,325.0C305.7,302.5 306.7,287.6 308.0,268.0C309.3,248.4 306.9,231.7 308.0,219.0C309.1,206.3 310.9,198.2 315.0,188.0C319.1,177.8 325.2,173.2 330.0,165.0C334.8,156.8 332.3,147.8 341.0,144.0" linkedTo="247"/>
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    <legend>
      <climb>105</climb>
      <climb>247</climb>
      <climb>106</climb>
      <climb>107</climb>
      <climb>108</climb>
      <climb>109</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <problem id="105" name="Nappy Rush" fa=" Evan Peacock, May 1990." stars="" number="106107." grade="V1" extra="">A hard little boulder problem (top-rope recommended) with a poor landing. Start on the overhanging mini-buttress just L of Yoda.</problem>
  <climb id="247" stars="**" extra="" number="107108." name="Strawberries" length="25m" grade="14" fa="Christoph Speer, Martin Brown, July 2021">To the left of Yoda is an obvious clean crack-line. Stem the initial chimney corner, continue up on good hand jams and then move right onto the arete and fist crack at the top to avoid the grassy gully. Continue to DBB at the top of Chocolate.</climb>
  <climb id="106" name="Yoda" fa="Peter Jackson, Dec 1980." stars="***" length="25m" grade="19" extra="§" number="108109.">One the best climbs at Lowdina, but quite a testing onsight. On lead it feels more like 20/21. Climbs the obvious thin line up the face just L of Chocolate. Start up this, then move L on the undercling. A thin layaway and optional mantel lead to the small ledge (good wire). Continue on up the thin seam on RPs (doubles at size 3, 4 and 5 helps, but doubles are not essential), finishing up the hand-crack on the L or R and onwards to the DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="107" name="Yoda Direct Start" fa="Evan Peacock, May 1990." length="25m" grade="21" extra="" number="109110." stars="">A technical little start - unprotected, but not such a bad landing. Follow the slab 2m L of Chocolate until it joins the layaway above the undercling (and runners!).</climb>
  <climb id="108" name="Chocolate" fa="Peter Jackson, Dec 1980." stars="**" length="25m" grade="16" extra="" number="110111.">Classic hand-jamming. About 6m right of Sweetie is an obvious crack with a bulge halfway up and a chimney on its R. Climb the twin-thin cracks, then follow the main crack through the bulge and the ledge. Finish up the side crack and top-out to the DBB / Rap Station.</climb>
  <climb id="109" name="Brittle Little Mothers" fa="Evan Peacock, Roy Langman, Al Adams, Dec 1989." stars="*" length="16m" grade="20" extra="§ - Þ Carrot Bolts" number="111112.">Takes the line through the roof to the R of Chocolate. Climb the face under the roof, traverse to the LH end and reach up for the BR before the mount. Continue to the horizontal, then up the groove (needs a clean) to a bomber RP, finishing on the ledge.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="168">Albatross Area</text>
  <text id="268" class="text">Located just to the right of the Chocolate / Yoda Area is an impressive looking buttress.</text>
  <image id="211" src="Albatross.jpg" height="933" width="700" legend="true" legendTitle="Albatross Area">
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      <path id="15196" points="70.0,506.0, 90.0,278.0, 89.0,197.0, 89.0,122.0, 93.0,16.0," lineStyle="dotted" d="M70.0,506.0C78.0,414.8 88.0,310.3 90.0,278.0C92.0,245.7 89.2,227.0 89.0,197.0C88.8,167.0 88.3,152.0 89.0,122.0C89.7,92.0 91.4,58.4 93.0,16.0" linkedTo="110"/>
    </drawing>
    <legend>
      <climb>110</climb>
      <climb>111</climb>
      <climb>112</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="110" name="Ulysses" fa="Mendelt Tilema, Peter Jackson, Mar 1971." length="25m" grade="16" extra="" number="112113." stars="">A few metres R of Chocolate is a small recess with a deep chimney to the R. Climb the wide crack in the L corner, to a grassy exit. Continue up the corner on finger jams, then finish up the awkward bottomless chimney.</climb>
  <climb id="111" name="Miasma" fa="Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Dave Gardner, 1982." stars=" * " length="25m" grade="15" extra="" number="113114.">Beware the poisonous vapours! The deep chimney just R of Ulysses.</climb>
  <climb id="112" name="Albatross" fa="Ian Lewis, Feb 1974. (date of FA in many older guidebooks is I Lewis May 1975 - a definitive written source is required)" stars="***" length="30m" grade="23" extra="" number="114115.">Australia’s first grade 23, and tough at the grade. It has been long assumed that the first 23 was American Henry Barber’s ascent of Insomnia at Frog Buttress in 1975. For over 40 years it was falsely reported that Lewis used a point of aid for rest on Albatross’s 1974 first ascent. In interviews for Gerry Narkowicz’s book on the history of Tasmanian climbing in 2018, Lewis and his belayer Lyle Closs, categorically state that the route was done free. Barber who was originally credited with the first free ascent of Albatross the following year, ironically fell off the route, the only climb that he was reported to have fallen off during his visit to Australia. The route follows the overhanging slanting corner-line, 6m right of the Ulysses gully. Layback around the block, swing around the corner, then mantle and move up to the ledge. Move past the spike and up to the bottomless crack to the top and DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="113" name="A Ginger Cat Ate Rebecca" fa="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Grant Rowbottom, Aug 1992." length="20m" grade="16" extra="§" number="115116.">Start about 15m up the gully R of the Albatross buttress. Climb up to the horizontal break below the roof, then launch up the face (small RP's).</climb>
  <image id="212" src="Yeti Flakes.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Yeti Flakes Buttress">
    <drawing>
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    </drawing>
    <legend>
      <climb>114</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="114" name="Yeti Flakes" fa="Gerry Narkowicz, Pete Steane, 1981." length="25m" grade="17" extra="§" number="116117.">Start two sub-buttress R of Albatross on the same contour. Face climb up the thin flake on the LH side of the buttress.</climb>
  <image id="219" src="Unfinished Symphony.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Unfinished Symphony Buttress">
    <drawing>
      <path id="38234" points="299.0,749.0, 283.0,561.0, 292.0,405.0, 319.0,299.0, 310.0,228.0, 284.0,171.0, 265.0,118.0, 276.0,59.0,belay" d="M299.0,749.0C292.6,673.8 284.3,623.5 283.0,561.0C281.7,498.5 286.0,448.3 292.0,405.0C298.0,361.7 316.1,327.5 319.0,299.0C321.9,270.5 316.6,252.2 310.0,228.0C303.4,203.8 292.5,191.8 284.0,171.0C275.5,150.2 266.6,140.5 265.0,118.0C263.4,95.5 271.6,82.6 276.0,59.0" linkedTo="115"/>
    </drawing>
    <legend>
      <climb>115</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="115" name="Unfinished Symphony" fa="Chris Dawson, Mary McWhirther, Sep 1974." length="8m" grade="11" extra="" number="117118.">Start on the front of the next buttress right of Yeti Flakes, a few metres R of a large recess. Climb up the crack to the ledge. Follow any of the variety of lines up (bounded on the R by a small square-cut pillar).</climb>
  <image id="214" src="Fingers and Thumbs.jpg" height="933" width="700" legend="true" legendTitle="Fingers and Thumbs Buttress">
    <drawing>
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    <legend>
      <climb>116</climb>
      <climb>117</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="116" name="Fingers and Thumbs" fa="Phil Robinson, Chris Rathbone, Jul 1976." stars="*" number="118119." length="15m" grade="13" extra="">Thoughtful footwork required to negotiate an undercling. Start at the thin crack splitting the front of the next small buttress R of Unfinished Symphony, behind a big sheoak. Climb the crack past the undercling flake, to the break. Straight up the face of the buttress to top.</climb>
  <climb id="117" name="Team Pursuit" fa="Doug Bruce and Team, 1985." stars="*" number="119120." length="15m" grade="16" extra="">Short and sweet... Seems rather changed now from the original description. Start from the gully about 6m R of Fingers &amp; Thumbs. Traverse L and diagonally up on sizeable footholds and around arête to join the thin crack line at a suspect flake, 1m R of F&amp;T. Thinly protected. Continue up past the flake to horizontal. Follow wide crack to top. An alternative variant is to climb F &amp; T for 3m and then traverse R for a metre to the bottom of the thin crack line Follow this to the top past the suspect flake and wide crack, as for the original route (17).</climb>
  <climb id="118" name="Team Pursuit Direct" fa="Evan Peacock, Apr 1990." length="15m" grade="20" extra="" number="120121.">The direct start.</climb>
  <problem id="119" name="If This Pavement Should Stray Or Rome, Smack It In The Bum, I Love Debra" fa="Garn Cooper, 1986." stars="" number="121122." grade="V1" extra="">The boulder problem up the detached pinnacle on the RH side of the gully R of Fingers and Thumbs.</problem>
  <text class="heading3" id="169">Greenknowe Buttress</text>
  <text id="272" class="text">This buttress is located directly below Bulging Biceps Buttress, about 50 m to climbers right of Albatross. The green taped track from the bottom of the hill will have taken you to the base of Hooning the Block.</text>
  <image id="215" src="Greenknowe Area.jpg" height="600" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Greenknowe Area">
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    <legend>
      <climb>120</climb>
      <climb>121</climb>
      <climb>122</climb>
      <climb>123</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="120" name="Hooning the Block" fa="Garn Cooper, David Loone, 1985." stars="" number="122123." length="15m" grade="13" extra="">From Fingers and Thumbs go downhill to a prominent buttress/pillar lower than the rest. This route climbs the arête 10m L of Greenknowe. Start up the face R of the arête, then move onto the arête at the horizontal, finishing straight up.</climb>
  <climb id="121" name="York Street" fa="Dave Gardner, Ross Adams, 1986." length="15m" grade="15" extra="" number="123124.">The line just R of Hooning the Block.</climb>
  <image id="292" src="greenknowe3.jpeg.jpg" height="1016" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Greenknowe Buttress">
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    <legend>
      <climb>122</climb>
      <climb>123</climb>
      <climb>124</climb>
      <climb>125</climb>
      <climb>126</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="122" name="Sheening With the Dovens" fa="Garn Cooper, Noel Ward, Sep 1984." stars="**" number="124125." length="25m" grade="18" extra="§">The arête a few metres L of Greenknowe. Poorly protected, improved by slinging a branch on a tree near the base of the route.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Editors Note 2021: In need of a brush. Newly installed anchors on Greenknowe now make this a good top-rope route for those less inclined towards the dangerous lifestyle.</climb>
  <climb id="123" name="Greenknowe" fa="Peter Jackson, Mendelt Tillemma, Nov 1969." stars="**" length="15m" grade="12" extra="" number="125126.">A few metres R of the lowest point of the buttress is a smooth chimney, blocked, and followed by two overhangs. Climb the chimney moving R up the rib to the small corner and top roof. Step L to the nose and around the overhang and the top. DBB lower-off.</climb>
  <climb id="124" name="Queasonaire" fa="Evan Peacock, Mar 1989." stars=" * " length="15m" grade="18" extra="§" number="126127.">Climb the face 1m R of Greenknowe, with protection at 4m (and after the crux!), to join the aforementioned at its roof.</climb>
  <climb id="125" name="Caged" fa="Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson, Oct 1989." stars="*" length="18m" grade="21" extra="4 FH" number="127128.">Originally led with an extended sling on a single piton, now retro-bolted in 2021 with permission from FA, although not sport route as an ascent still involves either the original runnout start, or the alternative start with one cam. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Start on the Shirvan buttress below the central scoop. Climb boldly up the foot of the buttress into the scoop and step L to the ledge, clip BP, then hit the bulge directly. Pass old piton and clip new BR and onto upper face following more BRs. &lt;br/&gt;Alt start: 2m left of original, climb the seam (well protected) up to ledge, then continue up original.&lt;br/&gt;DB lower off.</climb>
  <climb id="126" name="Shirvan" fa="Peter Jackson, Noel Ward, 1984." stars="" length="16m" grade="14" extra="§" number="128129.">From the middle of the buttress just R of Greenknowe move up on big holds to the ledge on the RH edge. Step L for protection behind a suspect flake, then finish directly up the middle.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="192">Bulging Biceps Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="194">Biceps Buttress where the following three routes are located, is situated directly above Greenknowe Buttress. There is a DBB / rap station above Bulging Biceps which can be used to descend from the climbs.</text>
  <image id="196" src="Biceps Buttress.jpg" height="1306" width="900" legend="true" legendTitle="Biceps Buttress">
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    <legend>
      <climb>127</climb>
      <climb>128</climb>
      <climb>129</climb>
      <climb>271</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="127" name="Joyride" fa="Al Adams, Simon Stubbs, Paul Taylor, Nov 1987." stars="*" number="129130." length="10m" grade="15" extra="§">Trickier than it looks. At the left hand end of Biceps Buttress a leaning gum tree sits in front of a slabby arete. Start behind tree and mount the small bulge, then continue up the face to the top. The challenge is to find the RP placements and not use the tree.</climb>
  <climb id="128" name="Juvenile Hall" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, 1987." stars="*" number="130131." length="10m" grade="13" extra="">Not meant for grown ups! The obvious handcrack on the same buttress 3m right of Joyride. Continue up chimney to top. Carefully traverse to the anchor above Bulging Biceps for descent.</climb>
  <climb id="129" name="Bulging Biceps" fa="Al Adams, Simon Stubbs, Nov 1987." stars="*" number="131132." length="10m" grade="18" extra="§ - 1 Carrot">Better entertainment than sideshow alley! Located on the right hand side of Biceps buttress immediately across the gully from Papillon buttress. Start 3m across the gully from Rocket Fuel, off the chockstone in the gully. Clip the BR (carrot in reasonable condition) with a wire or hanger (reachy), then launch off the chockstone diagonally left then up the steep arête. A #4 cam and RPs ease the anxiety somewhat. Continue to the top and DBB lower-off.</climb>
  <climb id="271" stars="*" extra="§ - 2 FH &amp; 1 Carrot" number="132133." name="Bulging Triceps  (Bulging Biceps Direct Start)" length="16m" grade="21" fa="Hamish Jackson qnd Gordon Broome July 2021">The direct start to Bulging Biceps makes for a more extended section of interesting climbing, and avoids the reachy bolt clip. Start at the foot of gully and climb into the holdless sentry box (bulging triceps required). Up and right via 2 FH (crux) to join the original route at the crux (carrot), and finish up original to the top. DBB. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <text id="270" class="heading3">Papillon Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="195">Papillon Buttress is at the same level and immediately right of Bulging Biceps Buttress. The flat area in front from where the topo image is taken, is Lunchspot Ledge. There is a DBB / Lower-off above Snoober for easy descent from the climbs.</text>
  <image id="197" src="Papillon Buttress.jpg" height="1632" legendTitle="Papillon Buttress" legend="true">
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    </drawing>
    <legend>
      <climb>131</climb>
      <climb>132</climb>
      <climb>133</climb>
      <climb>135</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="130" name="Rocket Fuel" fa="Al Adams, Pete Steane, Jul 1984." stars="" number="133134." length="15m" grade="15" extra="">Above Lunchsop Ledge is a dead gum tree standing in front of the buttress. The start of Rocket Fuel is located 5m left of the dead gum at a leftward facing flake. Climb the flake to a ledge with a large block on it, then follow the multiple crack system above to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="131" name="Blue Turtles" fa="Al Adams, Martin Rose, Sep 1987." stars="" number="134135." length="15m" grade="16" extra="">Needs taking to with a brush!. Climb the line that starts 1.5m right of Rocket Fuel.</climb>
  <climb id="132" name="Snoober" fa="Peter Jackson, Bob deCesare, Jan 1981." stars="**" number="135136." length="17m" grade="17" extra="§">The RP placements on this Lowdina classic still require some thought, but small cams have made things a bit easier! Climb the thin line up the face 2m left of the dead gum/thriving native cherry. Continue through the bulge and up the face above to belay on top. DB lower off, or easy walk off down the back to the right.</climb>
  <climb id="133" name="Papillon" fa="Peter Jackson, Bob Bull, May 1971." stars="**" number="136137." length="15m" grade="11" extra="">Pleasant and a fantastic beginner route. Viewed from Lunchspot Ledge, Papillon is the obvious jam crack just left of the dead gum. Jam to a small ledge and up the corner to belay on top, being mindful of some suspect blocks at the top of the corner. DBB lower off above Snoober.</climb>
  <climb id="135" name="Canary" fa="Lyle Closs, Ian Lewis, Jul 1972." stars="**" number="137138." length="15m" grade="15" extra="">Entertaining. The line 1 m right of Papillon behind the dead gum / thriving native cherry. Climb up and through the bulge then step up and right into the crack-line. Follow the thin crack leading to a steep fist width crack. Mount the ledge and climb the right hand side of the face above to top out next to Papillon and Snoober.</climb>
  <climb id="136" name="Bird on a Wire" fa="Steve Hamilton, Hamish Jackson, Sep 1991." stars="" number="138139." length="12m" grade="18" extra="§">Start just right of Canary as the buttress turns uphill. Follow the system of thin cracks straight up to the previous climbs overhang.</climb>
  <climb id="137" name="Sein Zum Tode" fa="Marcel Jackson (with TR inspection) and Rob Williams 1994?." stars="" number="139140." length="12m" grade="20" extra="">Climbs the enticing face right of Bird on a Wire. The crux is the first moves although the upper section is a little balancy. The main piece of protection is to be found at the first horizontal.</climb>
  <climb id="138" name="Fist" fa="Lyle Closs, Ian Lewis, Jul 1972." length="12m" grade="13" extra="" number="140141." stars="">The short jam crack in the gully around the back of the Papillon buttress. Finishes at the same spot as Canary.</climb>
  <climb id="139" name="The Prave" fa="Garn Cooper, 1987." length="10m" grade="10" extra="" number="141142." stars="">The line up the front of the buttress directly below Papillion Buttress that finishes on Lunchspot Ledge.</climb>
  <image id="220" src="Middle aged crisis.jpg" height="525" width="700" legend="true" legendTitle="Middle Aged Crisis Area" legendFooter="Above Papillion Buttress">
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    <legend>
      <climb>190</climb>
      <climb>140</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="190" name="Middled Aged Crisis" fa="Dave Drake, Geoff Wayatt, 1979." length="8m" grade="16" stars="" extra="" number="142143.">The short crack on the small buttress immediately above and right of Papillion Buttress. Follow the finger crack, which grows into off-width size. Rack accordingly.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="172">Heidelberg Direct / Rudge Area</text>
  <text id="251" class="text">Found above and to the right of the Papillion Buttress. A number of fantastic climbs on excellent quality and interesting rock.</text>
  <image id="258" src="Lumbar" height="675" width="900" legend="true" legendTitle="Heidelberg Direct Area">
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      <climb>140</climb>
      <climb>141</climb>
      <climb>263</climb>
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  <climb id="140" name="Heidelberg Direct" fa="Peter Steane (Top Roped), Feb 1984." length="20m" grade="17" extra="" stars="" number="143144.">A clean layback corner leading to an offwidth. Found 7m right of Middle Aged Crisis and immediately uphill of Fist. Climb the line avoiding the worst of the tragedy by traversing from the top of the shaky block around the nose and up on small holds. Continue straight up. Protection is difficult to arrange.</climb>
  <climb id="141" name="Expiry" fa="Asahel Bush, Phil Robinson, Jun 1975." length="20m" grade="13" extra="" stars="" number="144145.">Start about 20m right of Heidelberg Direct on the left hand side of the second of the two prominent recesses, and opposite Rudge. Climb up the crack for 4m, then traverse left around the awkward bulge and up to the ledge. Surmount the offwidth and chockstone, then climb the large curving flake at the top - careful of rockfall.</climb>
  <climb id="263" stars="*" extra="1 FH" number="145146." name="Lithium low down" length="25m" grade="18" fa="Gordon Broome, Hamish Jackson July 2021">Starts 1m left of Expiry, and crosses this climb at half height. Climb the intermittent cracks on the front of the buttres until the ledge at the start of the off-width on Expiry. Clip bolt high and right, climb face, or off width for 2m to horizontal break, then make exciting traverse right to arete (crux). Follows cracks on arete to top.</climb>
  <image id="253" src="Lumbar 2 Rudge.jpg" height="600" width="800" legendTitle="Lumbar Cruncher Area" legend="true">
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      <climb>141</climb>
      <climb>263</climb>
      <climb>142</climb>
      <climb>264</climb>
      <climb>143</climb>
      <climb>173</climb>
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  <climb id="142" name="Lumbar Cruncher" fa="Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson, Mar 1990." stars="***" number="146147." length="23m" grade="23" extra="3 FH">Tackles the steep left wall of the recess. Features unusually steep climbing for dolerite, and remarkable rock quality. Climb the organge wall (crux), then continue up the thin crack to the overhang. Move L, pull through onto the arête on the jugs. Don't escape L, but traverse back R to finish up the overhanging crack and exit jugs on prow. Note that two small knife blades were used to protect the crux (placed on abseil) on FA, bolts were added 2021. A steep, technical and varied route.&lt;br/&gt;The natural gear is bomber and placed easily from good stances (a few cams from 0.2 to 0.75, plus a 2 camalot for the final crack).</climb>
  <climb id="264" stars="***" extra="3 FH" number="147148." name="Lumbar Cruncher direct" length="23m" grade="24" fa="H Jackson and Gordy Broome 2021">Only 4m of independent climbing, but this is the crux. Improves the original as it continues up the steep line and is not escapable. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Up LC to the overhang at half height. Instead of moving left to the arete, pull up past bolt and slightly R (crux) to upper sentry box, then as per original up the overhanging crack and prow above.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Take few cams from 0.2 to 0.75, plus a 2 camalot for the final crack.</climb>
  <climb id="143" name="Rudge" fa="Lyle Closs, Ian Lewis, Oct 1973." length="20m" grade="16" extra="" stars="*" number="148149.">A very approachable and fun off-width. The obvious line on the right hand side of the recess opposite Expiry. Climb onto an overhanging jammed block at the base of route via its left hand side. Up the wide crack, move right and back left, then to top and DBB Lower-off.</climb>
  <image id="254" src="Danger Hog Shuffle" height="600" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Danger Hog Shuffle Area">
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      <path id="43200" points="604.0,370.0, 571.0,312.0, 555.0,281.0, 537.0,242.0, 535.0,220.0,belay" d="M604.0,370.0C590.8,346.8 577.7,324.2 571.0,312.0C564.3,299.8 561.1,293.6 555.0,281.0C548.9,268.4 539.8,250.4 537.0,242.0C534.2,233.6 535.8,228.8 535.0,220.0" linkedTo="177"/>
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    <legend>
      <climb>173</climb>
      <climb>176</climb>
      <climb>177</climb>
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  <climb id="173" name="The Danger Hog Shuffle" fa="Martin Walch, Garn Cooper, Jun 1986." stars="***" length="25m" grade="17" extra="1 Carrot" number="149150.">The wall immediately right of Rudge that has spat off plenty of aspiring leaders. Bridge the shallow corner and clip the BR (Carrot - slightly protruding but seemingly in good condition). The crack above is reached by a leftwards move (crux). Stand up on the block and follow the obvious crack to the top and DBB Lower-off. Pull the rope from next to Expiry to avoid a rope jam.</climb>
  <climb id="176" name="Wee Ratty" fa="Otmar Buchman, 1981." stars="*" length="6m" grade="13" number="150151." extra="">The layaway on the small buttress a few metres R of Rudge. The anchor above Rudge / Danger Hog Shuffle can be safely accessed from top of climb.</climb>
  <climb id="177" name="Quine" fa="Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson, Oct 1989." length="18m" grade="18" stars="" extra="" number="151152.">A few metres right and uphill from Wee Ratty is a small flat buttress. Climb up easily to the base of the thin crack on the left arête. Follow this up, finishing to the right of the main face.</climb>
  <climb id="178" name="Exactuary" fa="Garn Cooper, Noel Ward, 1986." length="10m" grade="14" number="152153.">Exact details unknown but known to be somewhere in the vicinity of Big Electric Cat.</climb>
  <climb id="179" name="Big Electric Cat" fa="Garn Cooper, 1986." length="10m" number="153154." stars="" extra="" grade="12">The bridging problem to the L of Gilmigrim.</climb>
  <climb id="180" name="Gilmigrim" fa="Garn Cooper, Noel Ward, Aug 1984." length="10m" grade="13" number="154155.">Beware of loose blocks. About 50m R of Wee Ratty is a higher and more prominent buttress with a square roof at its top. From the front of the buttress climb the wide crack to the ledge. Continue up the face to the small ledge then either pull through the roof or step back R and up.</climb>
  <climb id="188" name="Triangle Smile" fa="Ray Lassman" length="6m" grade="14" number="155156.">Climb the crack through the bulge at the top of No Hi Jinx buttress.</climb>
  <climb id="189" name="Small Acoustic Dog" fa="Colin Reed, Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Nov 1990." length="8m" grade="21" extra="§" number="156157.">Located on the small buttress just L of No Hi Jinx. Climb straight through the roof on RP's and cams.</climb>
  <text id="298" class="heading3">Spook Fright</text>
  <image id="306" src="Spook fright.jpg" height="667" width="500" legend="true" legendx="4" legendy="17">
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    <legend>
      <climb>299</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="299" stars="*" extra="" number="157158." name="Spook Fright" length="5m" grade="13" fa="Chris Lang, Jamie Spencer, Aug 2021">A fun filled 5 meters all by itself. Stonker gear and a few good moves makes it a good warm up before wailing wall, which is a further 40m down the hill.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="187">Wailing Wall</text>
  <text id="280" class="text">The last of the major buttresses on the RHS of the cliff. To get there from the base, follow the faint ridgeline from the top of the fields up and R of the car park. To traverse there from the south, take a slightly downward trajectory across from lunch stop ledge for 5 mins (300m) - the wall faces north so is not visible until you have crossed the ridgeline.</text>
  <image id="313" src="wailing wall.jpg" height="1080" legend="true" legendTitle="Wailing Wall">
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    <legend>
      <climb>181</climb>
      <climb>291</climb>
      <climb>182</climb>
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  </image>
  <climb id="181" name="No Hi Jinx" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Aug 1984." stars="*" length="12m" grade="17" extra="§" number="158159.">Start 3m L of Ashlars' Edge in the corner 2m left of the arate. From the base of the corner climb up and R to a small ledge then gain the arête and continue up it on the left side. Slightly loose.</climb>
  <climb id="291" stars="**" extra="4 FH" number="159160." name="Ashlars&apos; edge" length="15m" grade="22" fa="H Jackson and M Brown Aug 2021">Start 5m left of Wailing wall at the short orange corner 2m right of the arete. Climb short short corner (small cam optional), step left onto nose (crux) and continue up wall just R of arete to the small ledge 4m before the top (small cam required here &lt;0.3 camelot). Now climb diagonally right up face to DBB above the wailing wall.</climb>
  <climb id="182" name="Wailing Wall" fa="Marcel Jackson, Hamish Jackson, Jan 1992. Alt start H Jackson 2021" stars="***" length="12m" grade="26" extra="4Þ" number="160161.">Superb and sustained face climbing. Climbs the distinctive blank orange wall past 4BR's and a #2 camelot to protect final 4m to DBB lower-off.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Alt start (18m 26): Start for Ashler's edge, up to first BR, then more right up obvious diagonal to reach first BR of WW (run out, or small cam at feet). Adds 6m of gr 22 climbing.</climb>
  <climb id="183" name="Argonautica" fa="Chris Dawson, Mary McWhirther, Oct 1974." length="15m" grade="16" number="161162.">Start just to the R of Wailing Wall and climb the obvious crack/chimney.</climb>
  <climb id="184" name="Velveteen" fa="Rob Williams, Marcel Jackson, 1994." length="7m" grade="6" number="162163.">Climbs the short arête and wall of perfect dolerite about 4m R of Argonautica. A knife blade was placed in the horizontal on the FA.</climb>
  <text id="308" class="heading3">Radical Centrist Buttress</text>
  <text id="309" class="text">This block has a lovely clean orange front face and is found 80m right and 30m up hill from the Wailing wall. Head north from the wailing wall crossing a minor gully at 50m, and a minor ridgeline at 80m. The buttress lies 30m up the hill.</text>
  <image id="310" src="Radical Centrist.jpg" height="1080" legend="true" legendTitle="Radical Centrist Buttress">
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      <climb>311</climb>
      <climb>312</climb>
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  <climb id="311" stars="**" extra="3 FH" number="163164." name="Radical Centrist" length="12m" grade="24" fa="H Jackson  and G Broome Aug 2021">Start at the bottom right and move up the orange wall and small overlap with difficulty (crux - requires an usual number of moves left and right to facilitate progress to finally gain the upper left quadrant before the rooflet). Up seam above rooflet, then crack to top. DBB</climb>
  <climb id="312" stars="**" extra="2 FH" number="164165." name="Authoritarian ultranationalism " length="12m" grade="20" fa="G Broome and H Jackson Aug 2021">A great companion route to RC. Climb steep face right of arete past 2 FH and funky moves, then gain finger crack, onto ledge, then hand crack to finish.</climb>
  <text id="300" class="heading3">Topless Buttress</text>
  <image id="305" width="700" height="933" legend="true" src="Topless rock(1).jpg" legendTitle="Topless Buttress">
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    <legend>
      <climb>302</climb>
      <climb>303</climb>
      <climb>301</climb>
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  </image>
  <climb id="302" stars="" extra="" number="165166." name="Puffin" length="15m" grade="14" fa="Jamie Spencer, Chris Lang, Aug 2021">Climb 'Topless on 24s' to the horizontal break, go left and up the left-most groove. Bonus points if you sling the dead branches emerging from the crack.</climb>
  <climb id="303" stars="" extra="" number="166167." name="Winter dog" length="15m" grade="14" fa="Chris Lang, Jamie Spencer, Aug 2021">Climb 'Topless on 24s' to the horizontal break, go left and up the middle groove.</climb>
  <climb id="301" stars="**" extra="" number="167168." name="Topless on twenty-fours" length="15m" grade="14" fa="Chris Lang, Jamie Spencer, Aug 2021">The obvious clean fist-sized crack line, made for learning to jam. Two micro cams are nice, stonker gear to the top.</climb>
</guide>

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