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Guide
<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide><text class="heading1">Far North area
</text><texttext><image classnew="textfalse"
        number="null." src="Red pointer2.jpg"
        width="500">null</image><text class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">There are a number of shorter buttress to the North of the main cliffs. Access is via the track from the LH end of the parking bay which crosses the Organ Pipes Track and continues on up the hill. Where the track meets the base of the Lower Northern Buttress, go up R and follow a rough track toaround the topnorthern side of the greasy gully that splits the small Toy Town buttressesbuttress, onscramble the R. Scramble up and exit through the hole uphill to the R and follow the track to the short spire of Johnstone's Knob. </text>
<text
        class="heading2">Toy Town</text><text class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">Toy Town is a group of four small buttresses immediately R of Northern Buttress Lower Cliff. The routes are entertaining with easy access and are described R to L. Descend via the central gully or lower off Nancy Boy.</text>
<climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="7m" name="Virgin Boys "
        stars="">A pleasant sojourn on the far RH buttress. Climb a short crack on the L edge, step R and up to the top. Phil Steane, solo, Aug, 1982.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="8m" name="Boy's Toy "
        stars="*">Could be dangerous. The next buttress L (second from the R). Move R across the face and climb the R arête past a large hollow flake. D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Apr. 1989.
</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="21" length="10m" name="Nancy Boys "
        stars="*">An amusing encounter found on the arête L of Boys Toy. Start on the RH side of the gully that leads to Johnstone's Knob and climb the arête mostly on the LH side via three bolts and a rap station. The ridiculously hard crux is the first few moves immediately off the ground. R. Parkyn, Apr. 1992.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="10m" name="Child's Play "
        stars="*">Surprisingly insecure moves at the top. The RH arête of the largest (middle) buttress. Start on the LH side of the gully that leads to Johnstone's and climb up the arête and the shallow corner above. D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Apr. 1989.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="21" length="10m" name="War Toy "
        stars="*">A bomb waiting to drop. The obvious line up the centre of the middle buttress, just L of Child's Play. Climb up thin cracks just L of the arête and move carefully past the semi-detached spike to a hands off rest on its top. Step off L and climb the wall above. D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Apr. 1989.
</climb><text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">The next climb is on a small subsidiary wall immediatly above Child's Play. Scramble up the gully between Nancy Boys and Child Play for 4m then turn L and up to the base of the crack, by a small sassafras tree.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="12m" name="We Can Jam Too "
        new="false" number=""
        stars="*">Steep and potentially strenuous if you get it wrong! Start up the crack then follow the arête before moving L into the crack again when your feet are level with the horizontal feature. Jam the crack to the top making full use of the arête. Abseil off using a Hakea tree. J. Fisher, J. Robinson, May 2005.</climb>
<text
        class="heading2">Johnstone's Knob
</text><text class="text"
        new="false"
        number="null.">A number of short routes exist on outcrops in the Johnstone's Knob area. All routes can be located easily from here.
Descend via the rap stations above the bolted routes, walk off or tape abseil the rest.
</text><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="12" length="12m" name="Johnstone's Knob "
        stars="*">The prominent 12m spire that casts a spell on climbers and entices them over. There are several ways to the top. Rap station. Unknown, Sept. 1961. 
</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="19" length="12m" name=" Great Red Pointer "
        stars="*">Bizarre climbing up the side of the Johnstone's Knob that faces Northern Buttress. Involves using the arêtes on either side, sometimes simultaneously. Three BR's. R. Parkyn, 1993.
</climb><text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">The next route is on a small face about 30m south (L) of the Knob and at the same level.</text><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="21" length="12m" name=" Sergeant Slaughter "
        new="false" number=""
        stars="*">Pleasant climbing. 4 BRs plus rap station. G. Phillips, Oct. 1995. </climb><text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">The next two routes are found on Pipedream Buttress, a small buttress about 40m  uphill and southwest (L) of Johnstone's Knob. </text><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="15m" name="Pipedream "
        stars="*">Climb a steep hand crack on the R hand face past some difficulties in the mid section. Abseil off. D. Bowman, R. Wells, Dec. 1977.
</climb>
<climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="Shelter From The Storm "
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">The other route on Pipedream buttress. Climb the crack line around the arête L of Pipedream. Tricky. K. Kiernan, Nov. 1975.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="14" length="15m" name="Adolescent Drifters "
        stars="">Adolescent Drifters is the off-width crack 6m R of D.N.A. Phil Steane, D. Fife, 1982.
</climb><image
        new="false" number="null." src="DNAPipeDreamPrint.jpg"
        width="800">null</image>
<text
        class="heading2">DNA Buttress</text><text class="text"
        new="false"
        number="null.">DNA Buttress is a small buttress 30m steeply uphill and R from the top of the Pipedream buttress and contains several lines, the most prominent is Gear Freak, the corner crack. Descend to the L.</text>
<climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="10m" name="D.N.A. "
        stars="">Just R of Gear Freak is a line with a suspended blade 3m off the ground. Climb to the blade and up the widish crack to the top. D. Bowman, R. Wells, Dec. 1977.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Gear Freak "
        stars="**">Ten metres of pure joy for the crack enthusiast The hand crack in the prominent corner immediately L of D.N.A. Gets wider as you go. S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, Feb. 1982.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Rheumatism "
        stars="">The thin line up the arête to the L of Gear Freak. S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, Feb. 1982.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="8 " length="8m" name="Simple Minds "
        stars="">The shallow corner chimney 4m to the L of Rheumatism. Phil Steane, Oct. 1982.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="12" length="8m" name="Pancakes " stars="">The flake on the wall L of Simple Minds. FA: Unknown
</climb>
</guide>