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Northern Buttress >

Guide
<guide version="23"><header>
  <header access="Access is via the trackNorthern from the LH end of the parking bay which crosses the Organ Pipes Track and continues on up the hillButtress track. Where the track meets the base of the Lower Northern Buttress (see Northern Buttress sketch map), go up R and follow a rough track around the northern side of Toy Town buttress and scramble uphill to the spire of Johnstone'&apos;s Knob." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="There are a number of shorter buttresses to the north of the main cliffs that provide some OK climbing." name="Far North Area" rock="Short dolerite cracks and faces up to 20m" sun="Morning sun" walk="10 min from Northern Buttress" id="1" camping="" autonumber="true"/>
  <text class="heading2" id="2">Toy Town</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="3">Toy Town is a group of four small buttresses immediately R of Northern Buttress Lower Cliff. The routes are entertaining, with easy access, and are described R to L. Descend via the central gully or lower off Nancy BoyBoys.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="1718" length="7m12m" name="VirginWe BoysCan Jam Too" number="1." stars="" id="410" fa="PhilJ. SteaneFischer, solo,J. AugRobinson, 1982May 2005.">A>Steep pleasantand sojournpotentially onstrenuous theif faryou RHget buttressit wrong. ClimbStart aup shortthe crack onthen follow the arête before moving L edge,into stepthe Rcrack andagain up when your feet are level with the horizontal feature. Jam the crack to the top, making full use of the arête. Abseil off.</climb><climbclimb>
extra="" grade  <text class="20text" lengthid="8m9" name="Boy's Toy " stars="*" id="5" fa="D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Apr 1989.">Could be dangerous. The next buttress L (second from the R). Move R across the face and climb the R arête past a large hollow flake. </climb><climb extra="Þ ↓>The next climb is on a small subsidiary wall immediately above Child's Play. Scramble up the gully between Nancy Boys and Child's Play for 4m, then turn L and up to the base of the crack, by a small sassafras tree.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="10m" name="NancyWar BoysToy " number="" stars="*" id="68" fa="RD. ParkynStephenson, J. Otlowski, Apr 19921989.">An amusing encounter found on the arête L of Boys Toy. Start on the RH side of the central gully that leads to We Can Jamb Too, and climb the arête mostly on the LH side via three bolts and a rap station. The ridiculously hard crux is the first few moves immediately off the ground. </climb><climb  number="2.">A bomb waiting to drop. The obvious line up the centre of the middle buttress, just L of Child's Play. Climb up thin cracks just L of the arête and move carefully past the semi-detached spike to a hands off rest on top. Step off L and climb the wall above.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="10m" name="Child&amp;apos;s Play " number="3." stars="*" id="7" fa="D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Apr 1989.">Surprisingly insecure moves at the top. The RH arête of the largest (middle) buttress. Start on the LH side of the central gully and climb up the arête and the shallow corner above. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="21" length="10m" name="WarNancy ToyBoys " number="4." stars="*" id="86" fa="DR. StephensonParkyn, J. Otlowski, Apr 19891992.">A>An bombamusing waitingencounter tofound drop.on Thethe obviousarête lineL upof theBoys centreToy. ofStart on the middleRH buttress,side justof Lthe ofcentral Child's Play. Climb up thin cracks just L of gully that leads to We Can Jam Too, and climb the arête andmostly moveon carefullythe pastLH theside semi-detachedvia spikethree bolts to a handsrap offstation. restThe onridiculously itshard top.crux Stepis offthe Lfirst andfew climbmoves immediately off the wall aboveground. </climb><text classclimb>
  <climb extra="text" idgrade="920">The next climb is on a small subsidiary wall immediatly above Child's Play. Scramble up the gully between Nancy Boys and Child Play for 4m then turn L and up to the base of the crack, by a small sassafras tree.</text><climb length="8m" name="Boy&apos;s Toy " stars="*" id="5" fa="D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Apr 1989." number="5.">Could be dangerous. The next buttress L (second from the R). Move R across the face and climb the R arête past a large hollow flake.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="1817" length="12m7m" name="WeVirgin CanBoys Jam Too" number="" stars="*" id="104" fa="J.Phil Fischer, J. RobinsonSteane (solo), MayAug 20051982.">Steep and potentially strenuous if you get it wrong. Start up the crack then follow the arête before moving L into the crack again when your feet are level with the horizontal feature. Jam the crack to the top making full use of the arête. Abseil off. </climb>
 number="6.">A pleasant sojourn on the far RH buttress. Climb a short crack on the L edge, step R and up to the top.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="11">Johnstone's Knob
<Knob</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="12">A number of short routes exist on outcrops in the Johnstone's Knob area. All routes can be located easily from near the Knob. Descend via the rap stations above the bolted routes, walk off, or tape abseil the rest.</text><image noPrinttext>
  <text class="falsetext" srcid="great18">The red pointer.next two routes are found on Pipedream Buttress, a small buttress about 40m uphill and southwest (L) of Johnstone's Knob.</text>
  <image id="30" src="pipedream nl.jpg" width="500" idlegend="13true"/><climb extralegendx="330" gradelegendy="12249" lengthlegendTitle="12mPipedream Buttress" nameheight="Johnstone's Knob " stars="*" id="14" fa="Unknown, Sep 1961.">The prominent 12m spire that casts a spell on climbers and entices them over. There are several ways to the top. Rap station. </climb><climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="19" length="12m" name=" Great Red Pointer " number="" stars="*" id="15" fa="R. Parkyn, 1993.">Bizarre climbing up the side of the Johnstone's Knob that faces Northern Buttress. Involves using the arêtes on either side, sometimes simultaneously. Has three glued carrots. </climb><text 323">
    <drawing>
      <path id="90578" points="47,310, 64,204, 73,145, 96,73, 107,30,belay" d="M47,310C53.8,267.6 60.284045288882716,227.58202028209044 64,204C67.71595471111729,180.41797971790956 67.33499529997495,168.1911129907276 73,145C78.66500470002505,121.80888700927241 90.96641417065628,90.02536383454492 96,73C101.03358582934372,55.97463616545508 102.6,47.2 107,30" linkedTo="20"/>
      <path id="87664" points="123,213, 135,144, 145,41,belay" d="M123,213C127.8,185.4 131.4457341629321,171.78789654434917 135,144C138.5542658370679,116.21210345565083 141,82.2 145,41" linkedTo="19"/>
      <path id="23585" points="369,111, 353,50,belay" d="M369,111C362.6,86.6 359.4,74.4 353,50" linkedTo="26"/>
    </drawing>
    <legend>
      <climb>20</climb>
      <climb>19</climb>
      <climb>26</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="20m" name="Shelter From The Storm " number="7." stars="" id="20" fa="K. Kiernan, Nov 1975.">The other route on Pipedream Buttress. Climb the crack line around the arête L of Pipedream. Tricky.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="15m" name="Pipedream " number="8." stars="" id="19" fa="D. Bowman, R. Wells, Dec 1977.">Climb a steep hand crack on the RH face past some difficulties in the mid section. Abseil off.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="16">The next route is on a small face about 30m south (L) of the Knob and at the same level.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="21" length="12m" name=" Sergeant Slaughter " number="9." stars="*" id="17" fa="G. Phillips, Oct 1995.">Pleasant climbing. 4 BRsbolts plus rap station. </climb><text classclimb>
  <image noPrint="textfalse" idsrc="18">Thegreat next two routes are found on Pipedream Buttress, a small buttress about 40m  uphill and southwest (L) of Johnstone's Knob. </text><climb extra="red pointer.jpg" width="500" id="13" height="667"/>
  <climb extra="3Þ ↓" grade="1619" length="15m12m" name="Pipedream Great Red Pointer " number="PD10." stars="*" id="1915" fa="D. Bowman, R. WellsParkyn, Dec 19771993.">Climb>Bizarre aclimbing steepup handthe crackside onof the RJohnstone's handKnob facethat pastfaces someNorthern difficultiesButtress. inInvolves using the mid sectionarêtes on either side, sometimes simultaneously. Abseil off. Has three glued carrots.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="1812" length="20m12m" name="Shelter From The Storm " number="" Johnstone&apos;s Knob " stars="*" id="2014" fa="K. KiernanUnknown, NovSep 19751961." number="11.">The otherprominent route 12m spire that casts a spell on Pipedreamclimbers buttress.and Climbentices thethem crackover. lineThere aroundare theseveral arêteways Lto ofthe Pipedreamtop. TrickyRap station. </climb><image src="DNAPipeDreamPrint.jpg" width="500" id="21">null</image>
climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="22">DNA Buttress</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="23">DNA Buttress is a small buttress 30m steeply uphill and R from the top of the Pipedream buttressButtress and contains several short lines,. theThe most prominent is Gear Freak, the corner crack. Descend to the L.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="1412" length="15m8m" name="AdolescentPancakes" Driftersstars="" id="29" fa="Unknown." number="12.">The flake on the wall L of Simple Minds.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="8 " length="8m" name="Simple Minds " stars="" id="2428" fa="Phil Steane, D.Oct Fife, 1982.">Adolescent Drifters is an off-width crack 6m R of D.N.A.  number="13.">The shallow corner chimney 4m to the L of Rheumatism.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="1519" length="10m" name="D.N.A.Rheumatism " number="14." stars="" id="2527" fa="DS. BowmanParsons, RP. WellsBigg, Dec 1977.">Just R of Gear Freak is a line with a suspended blade 3m off the ground. Climb D. Fife, Feb 1982.">Anti-inflammatory medication might help! The thin line up the arête to the bladeL andof up the wide crack to the top. </climb><climb Gear Freak.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Gear Freak " stars="**" id="26" fa="S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, Feb 1982." number="GF15.">Ten metres of pure joy forthat theends crackprematurely. enthusiast The hand crack in the prominent corner immediately L of D.N.A. Gets wider as you go. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="1815" length="10m" name="RheumatismD.N.A. " number="16." stars="" id="2725" fa="SD. ParsonsBowman, PR. BiggWells, D. Fife, Feb 1982Dec 1977.">The>Just thin line up the arête to the L R of Gear Freak. Mayis be a tad harder.... </climb><climb extra="" grade="8 " length="8m" name="Simple Minds " stars="" id="28" fa="Phil Steane, Oct 1982.">The shallow corner chimney 4m to the L of Rheumatism. </climb><climb line with a suspended blade 3m off the ground. Climb to the blade and up the wide crack to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="1214" length="8m15m" name="PancakesAdolescent Drifters" number="17." stars="" id="2924" fa="UnknownPhil Steane, D. Fife, 1982.">The flakeoff-width oncrack the6m wallR L of Simple Minds. 
D.N.A.</climb>
</guide>

Northern Buttress >