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Northern Buttress >

Guide
<?xml<guide version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?3">
<guide><text class="heading1" new="false"
        number="null.">Far North Area</text><text class="text"
        new="false"
        number="null.">There are a number of shorter buttresses to the north of the main cliffs.  <header access="Access is via the trackNorthern from the LH end of the parking bay which crosses the Organ Pipes Track and continues on up the hillButtress track. Where the track meets the base of the Lower Northern Buttress (see Northern Buttress sketch map), go up R and follow a rough track around the northern side of Toy Town buttress and scramble uphill to the spire of Johnstone'&apos;s Knob. </text>
<text
        class="heading2">Toy Town</text><text class="text" new="false"
        number="null."" acknowledgement="" history="" intro="There are a number of shorter buttresses to the north of the main cliffs that provide some OK climbing." name="Far North Area" rock="Short dolerite cracks and faces up to 20m" sun="Morning sun" walk="10 min from Northern Buttress" id="1" camping="" autonumber="true"/>
  <text class="heading2" id="2">Toy Town</text>
  <text class="text" id="3">Toy Town is a group of four small buttresses immediately R of Northern Buttress Lower Cliff. The routes are entertaining, with easy access, and are described R to L. Descend via the central gully or lower off Nancy BoyBoys.</text>
<climb  <climb       extra="" grade="1718" length="7m12m" name="VirginWe BoysCan Jam Too" number="1." stars="" id="10" fa="J. Fischer, J. Robinson, May stars="">A pleasant sojourn on the far RH buttress. Climb a short crack on the L edge, step R and up to the top. Phil Steane, solo, Aug, 1982.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="8m" name="Boy's Toy "
        stars="*">Could be dangerous. The next buttress L (second from the R). Move R across the face and climb the R arête past a large hollow flake. D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Apr. 1989.
</climb><climb
        extra="Þ ↓2005.">Steep and potentially strenuous if you get it wrong. Start up the crack then follow the arête before moving L into the crack again when your feet are level with the horizontal feature. Jam the crack to the top, making full use of the arête. Abseil off.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="9">The next climb is on a small subsidiary wall immediately above Child's Play. Scramble up the gully between Nancy Boys and Child's Play for 4m, then turn L and up to the base of the crack, by a small sassafras tree.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="10m" name="NancyWar BoysToy "         newstars="false*" numberid="8" fa="D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Apr    stars1989." number="*2.">An>A amusingbomb encounterwaiting foundto ondrop. theThe arêteobvious Lline ofup Boysthe Toy.centre Startof on the RHmiddle sidebuttress, ofjust theL centralof gully that leads to We Can Jamb Too, and climb Child's Play. Climb up thin cracks just L of the arête mostlyand onmove thecarefully LHpast sidethe viasemi-detached threespike boltsto and a raphands station.off Therest ridiculouslyon hardtop. cruxStep isoff theL firstand few moves immediately off climb the ground.wall R. Parkyn, Apr. 1992.
above.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb      extra="" grade="20" length="10m" name="Child&amp;apos;s Play "         new="false" number=""
        stars="*"number="3." stars="*" id="7" fa="D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Apr 1989.">Surprisingly insecure moves at the top. The RH arête of the largest (middle) buttress. Start on the LH side of the central gully and climb up the arête and the shallow corner above. D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Apr. 1989.
</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb      extra="Þ ↓" grade="21" length="10m" name="WarNancy ToyBoys "         number="4." stars="*">A bomb waiting to drop. The obvious line up the centre of the middle buttress, just L of Child's Play. Climb up thin cracks just L of the arête and move carefully past the semi-detached spike to a hands off rest on its top. Step off L and climb the wall above. D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Apr. 1989.
</climb><text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">The next climb is on a small subsidiary wall immediatly above Child's Play. Scramble up the gully between Nancy Boys and Child Play for 4m then turn L and up to the base of the crack, by a small sassafras tree.</text><climb
        id="6" fa="R. Parkyn, Apr 1992.">An amusing encounter found on the arête L of Boys Toy. Start on the RH side of the central gully that leads to We Can Jam Too, and climb the arête mostly on the LH side via three bolts to a rap station. The ridiculously hard crux is the first few moves immediately off the ground.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="8m" name="Boy&apos;s Toy " stars="*" id="5" fa="D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Apr 1989." number="5.">Could be dangerous. The next buttress L (second from the R). Move R across the face and climb the R arête past a large hollow flake.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="1817" length="12m7m" name="WeVirgin CanBoys Jam Too"         newstars="false" numberid="4" fa="Phil Steane (solo), Aug     stars1982." number="*6.">Steep>A andpleasant potentiallysojourn strenuouson ifthe youfar getRH it wrongbuttress. StartClimb upa theshort crack thenon follow the arête before moving L intoedge, thestep crackR againand when your feet are level with the horizontal feature. Jam the crack up to the top making full use of the arête. Abseil off. J. Fischer, J. Robinson, May 2005.</climb>
<text  <text       class="heading2" id="11">Johnstone's Knob
<Knob</text><texttext>
class="text"         new<text class="falsetext"         numberid="null.12">A number of short routes exist on outcrops in the Johnstone's Knob area. All routes can be located easily from near the Knob. Descend via the rap stations above the bolted routes, walk off, or tape abseil the rest.</text><imagetext>
        new<text class="falsetext" noPrintid="false18">The src="great red pointer.jpg"
        width="500"/><climb extra="↓" grade="12" length="12m"
        name="Johnstone's Knob "
        stars="*">The prominent 12m spire that casts a spell on climbers and entices them over. There are several ways to the top. Rap station. Unknown, Sept. 1961. 
</climb><climbnext two routes are found on Pipedream Buttress, a small buttress about 40m uphill and southwest (L) of Johnstone's Knob.</text>
  <image id="30" src="pipedream nl.jpg" width="500" legend="true" legendx="330" legendy="249" legendTitle="Pipedream Buttress" height="323">
    <drawing>
      <path id="90578" points="47,310, 64,204, 73,145, 96,73, 107,30,belay" d="M47,310C53.8,267.6 60.284045288882716,227.58202028209044 64,204C67.71595471111729,180.41797971790956 67.33499529997495,168.1911129907276 73,145C78.66500470002505,121.80888700927241 90.96641417065628,90.02536383454492 96,73C101.03358582934372,55.97463616545508 102.6,47.2 107,30" linkedTo="20"/>
      <path  extraid="Þ ↓87664" gradepoints="19" length="12m" name=" Great Red Pointer "
123,213, 135,144, 145,41,belay" d="M123,213C127.8,185.4 131.4457341629321,171.78789654434917 135,144C138.5542658370679,116.21210345565083 141,82.2 145,41" linkedTo="19"/>
      <path newid="false23585" numberpoints="369,111, 353,50,belay" d="M369,111C362.6,86.6 359.4,74.4 353,50" linkedTo="26"/>
    stars="*">Bizarre climbing up the side of the Johnstone's Knob that faces Northern Buttress. Involves using the arêtes on either side, sometimes simultaneously. Has three glued carrots. R. Parkyn, 1993.
</climb><text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">The next route is on a small face about 30m south (L) of the Knob and at the same level.</text><climb
        extra="Þ ↓" grade="21" length="12m" name=" Sergeant Slaughter "
        new="false" number=""
        stars="*">Pleasant climbing. 4 BRs plus rap station. G. Phillips, Oct. 1995. </climb><text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">The next two routes are found on Pipedream Buttress, a small buttress about 40m  uphill and southwest (L) of Johnstone's Knob. </text><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="15m" name="Pipedream " new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">Climb a steep hand crack on the R hand face past some difficulties in the mid section. Abseil off. D. Bowman, R. Wells, Dec. 1977.
</climb>
<climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="Shelter From The Storm "
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">The other route on Pipedream buttress. Climb the crack line around the arête L of Pipedream. Tricky. K. Kiernan, Nov. 1975.
</climb><image
        new="false" number="null." src="DNAPipeDreamPrint.jpg"
        width="500">null</image>
<text
        class="heading2">DNA Buttress</text><text class="text"
        new="false"
        number="null.</drawing>
    <legend>
      <climb>20</climb>
      <climb>19</climb>
      <climb>26</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="20m" name="Shelter From The Storm " number="7." stars="" id="20" fa="K. Kiernan, Nov 1975.">The other route on Pipedream Buttress. Climb the crack line around the arête L of Pipedream. Tricky.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="15m" name="Pipedream " number="8." stars="" id="19" fa="D. Bowman, R. Wells, Dec 1977.">Climb a steep hand crack on the RH face past some difficulties in the mid section. Abseil off.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="16">The next route is on a small face about 30m south (L) of the Knob and at the same level.</text>
  <climb extra="4Þ ↓" grade="21" length="12m" name=" Sergeant Slaughter " number="9." stars="*" id="17" fa="G. Phillips, Oct 1995.">Pleasant climbing. 4 bolts plus rap station.</climb>
  <image noPrint="false" src="great red pointer.jpg" width="500" id="13" height="667"/>
  <climb extra="3Þ ↓" grade="19" length="12m" name=" Great Red Pointer " number="10." stars="*" id="15" fa="R. Parkyn, 1993.">Bizarre climbing up the side of the Johnstone's Knob that faces Northern Buttress. Involves using the arêtes on either side, sometimes simultaneously. Has three glued carrots.</climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="12" length="12m" name="Johnstone&apos;s Knob " stars="*" id="14" fa="Unknown, Sep 1961." number="11.">The prominent 12m spire that casts a spell on climbers and entices them over. There are several ways to the top. Rap station.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="22">DNA Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="23">DNA Buttress is a small buttress 30m steeply uphill and R from the top of the Pipedream buttressButtress and contains several short lines,. theThe most prominent is Gear Freak, the corner crack. Descend to the L.</text><climbtext>
  <climb      extra="" grade="14 12" length="15m8m" name="Adolescent Drifters "
        new="falsePancakes" stars="" id="29" fa="Unknown." number="12.">The flake on the wall L of Simple  starsMinds.</climb>
  <climb extra=""> grade="8 " Adolescent Drifters is an off-width crack 6m R of D.N.A. length="8m" name="Simple Minds " stars="" id="28" fa="Phil Steane, D.Oct Fife, 1982." number="13.">The shallow </climb>corner <climbchimney 4m to the L of Rheumatism.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="1519" length="10m" name="D.N.A.Rheumatism " newnumber="false14."         numberstars=""         starsid="27">Just R of Gear Freak is a line with a suspended blade 3m off the ground. Climb to the blade and up the wide crack to the top. D. Bowman, R. Wells, Dec. 1977.
</climb><climb
        fa="S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, Feb 1982.">Anti-inflammatory medication might help! The thin line up the arête to the L of Gear Freak.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Gear Freak " stars="*" id="26" fa="S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D.  stars="**Fife, Feb 1982." number="15.">Ten metres of pure joy forthat theends crackprematurely. enthusiast The hand crack in the prominent corner immediately L of D.N.A. Gets wider as you go. S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, Feb. 1982.
</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb      extra="" grade="1815" length="10m" name="RheumatismD.N.A. " newnumber="false16."         numberstars=""         starsid="25">The thin line up the arête to the L fa="D. Bowman, R. Wells, Dec 1977.">Just R of Gear Freak. Mayis bea line with a tad harder.... S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, Feb. 1982.
</climb><climb
        suspended blade 3m off the ground. Climb to the blade and up the wide crack to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="8 14" length="8m15m" name="SimpleAdolescent Minds Drifters"         stars="">The shallow corner chimney 4m to the L of Rheumatism. Phil Steane, Oct. 1982.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="12" length="8m" name="Pancakes " stars="">The flake on the wall L of Simple Minds. FA: Unknown
number="17." stars="" id="24" fa="Phil Steane, D. Fife, 1982.">The off-width crack 6m R of D.N.A.</climb>
</guide>

Northern Buttress >