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Guide
<?xml<guide version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?3">
<guide><text class="heading1" new <header access="false"Access is via the Northern     number="null.">Far North Area</text><text class="text"
        new="false"
        number="null.">There are a number of shorter buttresses to the north of the main cliffs. Access is via the track from the LH end of the parking bay which crosses the Organ Pipes Track and continues on up the hill. Where the track meets the base of the Lower Northern Buttress, go up R and follow a rough track around the northern side of Toy Town buttress and scramble uphill to the spire of Johnstone's Knob. </text>
<text
        class="heading2">Toy Town</text><text class="text" new="false"
        number="null."Buttress track. Where the track meets the base of the Lower Northern Buttress (see Northern Buttress sketch map), go up R and follow a rough track around the northern side of Toy Town buttress and scramble uphill to the spire of Johnstone&apos;s Knob." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="There are a number of shorter buttresses to the north of the main cliffs that provide some OK climbing." name="Far North Area" rock="Short dolerite cracks and faces up to 20m" sun="Morning sun" walk="10 min from Northern Buttress" id="1" camping="" autonumber="true"/>
  <text class="heading2" id="2">Toy Town</text>
  <text class="text" id="3">Toy Town is a group of four small buttresses immediately R of Northern Buttress Lower Cliff. The routes are entertaining, with easy access, and are described R to L. Descend via the central gully or lower off Nancy BoyBoys.</text>
<climb  <climb       extra="" grade="1718" length="7m12m" name="VirginWe BoysCan Jam Too" number="1." stars="" id="10" fa="J. Fischer, J. Robinson, May stars="">A pleasant sojourn on the far RH buttress. Climb a short crack on the L edge, step R and up to the top. Phil Steane, solo, Aug, 1982.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="8m" name="Boy's Toy "
        stars="*">Could be dangerous. The next buttress L (second from the R). Move R across the face and climb the R arête past a large hollow flake. D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Apr. 1989.
</climb><climb
        extra="Þ ↓2005.">Steep and potentially strenuous if you get it wrong. Start up the crack then follow the arête before moving L into the crack again when your feet are level with the horizontal feature. Jam the crack to the top, making full use of the arête. Abseil off.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="9">The next climb is on a small subsidiary wall immediately above Child's Play. Scramble up the gully between Nancy Boys and Child's Play for 4m, then turn L and up to the base of the crack, by a small sassafras tree.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="10m" name="NancyWar BoysToy "         newstars="false*" numberid="8" fa="D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Apr    stars1989." number="*2.">An>A amusingbomb encounterwaiting foundto ondrop. theThe arêteobvious Lline of Boys Toy. Start on up the RHcentre side of the gullymiddle thatbuttress, leadsjust toL Johnstoneof Child's KnobPlay. andClimb climbup thethin arêtecracks mostlyjust onL of the LHarête sideand viamove threecarefully boltspast andthe asemi-detached rapspike station.to Thea ridiculouslyhands hardoff cruxrest ison thetop. firstStep fewoff movesL immediatelyand offclimb the ground.wall R. Parkyn, Apr. 1992.
above.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb      extra="" grade="20" length="10m" name="Child'&apos;s Play " number="3." stars="*" id="7" fa="D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Apr stars=1989."*">Surprisingly insecure moves at the top. The RH arête of the largest (middle) buttress. Start on the LH side of the central gully that leads to Johnstone's and climb up the arête and the shallow corner above. D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Apr. 1989.
</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb      extra="Þ ↓" grade="21" length="10m" name="WarNancy ToyBoys "         number="4." stars="*">A bomb waiting to drop. The obvious line up the centre of the middle buttress, just L of Child's Play. Climb up thin cracks just L of the arête and move carefully past the semi-detached spike to a hands off rest on its top. Step off L and climb the wall above. D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Apr. 1989.
</climb><text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">The next climb is on a small subsidiary wall immediatly above Child's Play. Scramble up the gully between Nancy Boys and Child Play for 4m then turn L and up to the base of the crack, by a small sassafras tree.</text><climb
        id="6" fa="R. Parkyn, Apr 1992.">An amusing encounter found on the arête L of Boys Toy. Start on the RH side of the central gully that leads to We Can Jam Too, and climb the arête mostly on the LH side via three bolts to a rap station. The ridiculously hard crux is the first few moves immediately off the ground.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="8m" name="Boy&apos;s Toy " stars="*" id="5" fa="D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Apr 1989." number="5.">Could be dangerous. The next buttress L (second from the R). Move R across the face and climb the R arête past a large hollow flake.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="1817" length="12m7m" name="WeVirgin CanBoys Jam Too "         newstars="false" numberid="4" fa="Phil Steane (solo), Aug     stars1982." number="*6.">Steep>A andpleasant potentiallysojourn strenuouson ifthe youfar getRH itbuttress. wrong!Climb Starta upshort the crack thenon follow the arête before moving L intoedge, thestep crackR againand when your feet are level with the horizontal feature. Jam the crack up to the top making full use of the arête. Abseil off. J. Fisher, J. Robinson, May 2005.</climb>
<text  <text       class="heading2" id="11">Johnstone's Knob
<Knob</text><texttext>
class="text"         new<text class="falsetext"         numberid="null.12">A number of short routes exist on outcrops in the Johnstone's Knob area. All routes can be located easily from near the knobKnob. Descend via the rap stations above the bolted routes, walk off, or tape abseil the rest.</text><climbtext>
        extra<text class="text" gradeid="12" length="12m" name="Johnstone's Knob "
        stars="*">The prominent 12m spire that casts a spell on climbers and entices them over. There are several ways to the top. Rap station. Unknown, Sept. 1961. 
</climb><climb
        extra="Þ ↓" grade="19" length="12m" name=" Great Red Pointer "
18">The next two routes are found on Pipedream Buttress, a small buttress about 40m uphill and southwest (L) of Johnstone's Knob.</text>
  <image id="30" src="pipedream nl.jpg" width="500" legend="true" legendx="330" legendy="249" legendTitle="Pipedream Buttress" height="323">
    <drawing>
      <path newid="false90578" numberpoints=""
        stars="*">Bizarre climbing up the side of the Johnstone's Knob that faces Northern Buttress. Involves using the arêtes on either side, sometimes simultaneously. Has three glued carrots. R. Parkyn, 1993.
</climb><text47,310, 64,204, 73,145, 96,73, 107,30,belay" d="M47,310C53.8,267.6 60.284045288882716,227.58202028209044 64,204C67.71595471111729,180.41797971790956 67.33499529997495,168.1911129907276 73,145C78.66500470002505,121.80888700927241 90.96641417065628,90.02536383454492 96,73C101.03358582934372,55.97463616545508 102.6,47.2 107,30" linkedTo="20"/>
      <path id="87664" points="123,213, 135,144, 145,41,belay" d="M123,213C127.8,185.4 131.4457341629321,171.78789654434917 135,144C138.5542658370679,116.21210345565083 141,82.2 145,41" linkedTo="19"/>
      <path id="23585" classpoints="text369,111, 353,50,belay" newd="false"
M369,111C362.6,86.6 359.4,74.4 353,50" linkedTo="26"/>
    </drawing>
  number="null.">The next route<legend>
is on a small face about 30m<climb>20</climb>
south (L) of the Knob and at<climb>19</climb>
the same level.</text><climb     <climb>26</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="2117" length="12m20m" name="Shelter SergeantFrom SlaughterThe "
        new="false"Storm " number="7."         stars="*">Pleasant climbing. 4 BRs plus rap station. G. Phillips, Oct. 1995. </climb><text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null id="20" fa="K. Kiernan, Nov 1975.">The nextother two routes are found route on Pipedream Buttress,. aClimb smallthe buttresscrack aboutline 40maround the uphillarête and southwest (L) of Johnstone's Knob. Pipedream. Tricky.</text><climbclimb>
  <climb      extra="" grade="16" length="15m" name="Pipedream " number="8." stars="" id="19" fa="D. Bowman, R. Wells, Dec stars=1977."*">Climb a steep hand crack on the RRH hand face past some difficulties in the mid section. Abseil off.</climb>
D. Bowman, R. Wells, Dec. 1977.
</climb>
<climb
        extra="<text class="text" id="16">The next route is on a small face about 30m south (L) of the Knob and at the same level.</text>
  <climb extra="4Þ ↓" grade="1821" length="20m12m" name="Shelter FromSergeant TheSlaughter Storm "         newnumber="false9." numberstars="*"         starsid="17">The other route on Pipedream buttress. Climb the crack line around the arête L of Pipedream. Tricky. K. Kiernan, Nov. 1975.
</climb><climb
        extra="fa="G. Phillips, Oct 1995.">Pleasant climbing. 4 bolts plus rap station.</climb>
  <image noPrint="false" src="great red pointer.jpg" width="500" id="13" height="667"/>
  <climb extra="3Þ ↓" grade="1419" length="15m12m" name="Adolescent DriftersGreat Red Pointer " number="10." stars="*" id="15" fa="R. Parkyn, 1993.">Bizarre climbing up stars="">Adolescent Drifters isthe side of the off-width crack 6m R of D.N.A. Phil Steane, D. Fife, 1982.
</climb><image
        new="false" number="null." src="DNAPipeDreamPrint.jpg"
        width="800">null</image>
<text
        class="heading2">DNA Buttress</text><text class="text"
        new="false"
        number="null.Johnstone's Knob that faces Northern Buttress. Involves using the arêtes on either side, sometimes simultaneously. Has three glued carrots.</climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="12" length="12m" name="Johnstone&apos;s Knob " stars="*" id="14" fa="Unknown, Sep 1961." number="11.">The prominent 12m spire that casts a spell on climbers and entices them over. There are several ways to the top. Rap station.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="22">DNA Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="23">DNA Buttress is a small buttress 30m steeply uphill and R from the top of the Pipedream buttressButtress and contains several short lines,. theThe most prominent is Gear Freak, the corner crack. Descend to the L.</text>
<climb  <climb       extra="" grade="1512" length="10m8m" name="D.N.A. " new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">Just R of Gear Freak is a line with a suspended blade 3m off the ground. Climb to the blade and up the wide crack to the top. D. Bowman, R. Wells, Dec. 1977.
</climb><climb
        Pancakes" stars="" id="29" fa="Unknown." number="12.">The flake on the wall L of Simple Minds.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="8 " length="8m" name="Simple Minds " stars="" id="28" fa="Phil Steane, Oct 1982." number="13.">The shallow corner chimney 4m to the L of Rheumatism.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="10m" name="Rheumatism " number="14." stars="" id="27" fa="S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, Feb 1982.">Anti-inflammatory medication might help! The thin line up the arête to the L of Gear Freak.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Gear Freak " stars="*" id="26" fa="S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D.  stars="**Fife, Feb 1982." number="15.">Ten metres of pure joy forthat theends crackprematurely. enthusiast The hand crack in the prominent corner immediately L of D.N.A. Gets wider as you go. S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, Feb. 1982.
</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb      extra="" grade="1815" length="10m" name="RheumatismD.N.A. "         number="16." stars="">The thin line up the arête to the L of Gear Freak. S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, Feb. 1982.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="8 " length="8m" name="Simple Minds "
        stars="">The shallow corner chimney 4m to the L of Rheumatism. Phil Steane, Oct. 1982.
</climb><climb
        id="25" fa="D. Bowman, R. Wells, Dec 1977.">Just R of Gear Freak is a line with a suspended blade 3m off the ground. Climb to the blade and up the wide crack to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="1214" length="8m15m" name="PancakesAdolescent Drifters" number="17." stars="">The flake on the wall L of Simple Minds. FA: Unknown
id="24" fa="Phil Steane, D. Fife, 1982.">The off-width crack 6m R of D.N.A.</climb>
</guide>