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Guide
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<guide><header
        access="Cleverly positioned so you can fit in at least two or three nightmare epics after work,. theThe Quarry is on Waterworks Road (surprise) between Lynton Ave and Romilly Street in Dynyrne. Travel south along Davey Street (B64) heading for Ferntree (Mt Wellington), over the lights at the end of the Southern Outlet, and turn L at the first roundabout on Huon Road down Lynton Avenue. Turn R at the bottom of the steep hill into Waterworks Road, the cliff is about a km further on on the LH side. After some debate as to whether they would close the cliff to climbers due to safety issues, the Hobart Council in their wisdom decided instead to clear the old quarry floor for parking, erect a fence along the cliff line, and even install a child-proof gate - plus of course the usual warning notices etc. We are in their debt!"
        acknowledgement="by John Domeney, originally published in Craglets. Updated by Tony McKenny, Dec 2007"
        history=""
        intro="A rock is a rock they say, but if you think bolted routes take the adventure out of climbing then it’s time you paid a visit to the birthplace of the world’s next fad: choss climbing! Take one tottering pile of exfoliating rubble, add wide-eyed climbers with psychotic hammer drills and shares in Ramset. The result: a multitude of good routes carefully engineered so that every ascent is a first ascent i.e. all the holds break all the time. The procedure for doing new routes is as follows. Put on a blindfold, rap down, drilling at random. Carry a sack of rocks to place on holds so that every ascentionist gets a “unique” experience and every belayer gets a discount lobotomy. Remember, leading is the way to go here as the only other access to the chains is by jumping off the top and grabbing them on the way past."
        name="Waterworks Quarry" new="false"
        rock="Slabby, chossy, quarried dolerite" sun="Afternoon sun"
        walk="30 seconds"></header><climb extra="" grade="17"
        length="7m" name="Justin’s Crack" new="false" number="" stars=""
   name     value="Justin’s Crack">The ramp to The thin line to the S-shaped crack 20m left of Twilight Groping. One old carrot bolt, take a bracket, and possibly some trad gear for the crack.Justin Kennedy.">The thin line to the S-shaped crack 20m left of Twilight Groping. One old carrot bolt, take a bracket, and possibly some trad gear for the crack.Justin Kennedy.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="21" length="7m" name="Spiderman’s Arsehole"
      name  new="Spiderman’sfalse" Arseholenumber=">Start " stars=""
        value="Start just right of Justin’s Crack . Follow a small shallow crack on tweaky holds, (clip the clipping the carrot bolt on Justin’s Crack. The crux starts at the second bolt (again, no bracket). Jon Tiller, Nov 1991.">Start just right of Justin’s Crack . Follow a small shallow crack on tweaky holds, clipping the carrot bolt on Justin’s Crack. The crux starts at the second bolt (again, no bracket). Jon Tiller, Nov/91 1991.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1914" length="15m12m" name="Twilight Groping"
      name  new="Twilightfalse" Groping"number="" stars="*"
        value="Classic face climbing. The route is found just left of the nightmare descent from the top of Bastard Cancer. 3 BRs plus lower off (ignore the old bolts to L and R). Richard Marshall, May 1989.">Classic face climbing. The route is found just left of the nightmare descent from the top of Bastard Cancer. 3 BRs plus lower off (ignore the old bolts to L and R). Richard Marshall, May/89 1989. </climb><climb
        extra="" grade="12" length="8m" name="Five Four" new="false"
     name   number="Five" Four"stars=""
        value="Start 10m left of Bastard Cancer. One old bolt, no bracket, and a single bolt lower off....hmmmm. Jon Tiller, Aug 1993.">Start 10m left of Bastard Cancer. One old bolt, no bracket, and a single bolt lower off....hmmmm. Jon Tiller, Aug/93 1993.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="15m" name="Death Unto Racists"
     name   new="Death Unto Racists"false" number="" stars=""
        value="Start 2m left of Bastard Cancer. 3 carrots (take brackets)  plus lower off. Jon Tiller, Aug 1993.">Start 2m left of Bastard Cancer. 3 carrots (take brackets)  plus lower off. Jon Tiller, Aug/93 1993.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="21" length="15m" name="Bastard Cancer"
      name  new="Bastardfalse" Cancernumber=">2B. " stars="*"
        value="The arete left of the big slab. Most ascents start up the corner to the immediate right (17). Small 2 carrot bolts (no brackets) plus small wires protecthigher up on the topeasier sectionground. whichRichard is easy. Marshall, Feb 1987."> The arete left of the big slab. Most ascents start up the corner to the immediate right (17). 2 carrot bolts (no brackets) plus small wires higher up on the easier ground. Richard Marshall, Feb/87 1987.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="Phantom Stone Thrower"
     name   new="Phantom Stone Thrower"false" number="" stars="*"
        value="Start 3m right of Bastard Cancer. Tricky slab climbing, moving L into the groove at the very top. 5 BRs plus lower off.Jon Tiller, Sep 1993.">Start 3m right of Bastard Cancer. Tricky slab climbing, moving L into the groove at the very top. 5 BRs plus lower off.Jon Tiller, Sep/93 1993.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="24" length="20m" name="Les Grands Ensembles"
     name   new="Les Grands Ensembles">Starts 1mfalse" number="" stars=""
        value="Starts 5m to the R of Phantom Stone Thrower, and follows a line of 7 BRRs up to the chain at the top of TdF (the last bolt is not visible from the ground). Richard Cockerill, May 2000.">Starts 5m to the leftR of TourPhantom deStone FranceThrower, and follows a line of seven7 boltsBRRs up to the chain at the top of TdF (the last bolt is not visible from the ground). Richard Cockerill, May/00 2000.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="26/27" length="20m" name="Tour de France"
     name   new="Tour de France">The false" number="" stars=""
        value="The line of bolts (7) up the big slab right2m R of Bastard Cancer. LGS. A well known test piece, originally bolted by Justin Kennedy and Richard Marshall circa 1987 but not climbed free until 1994! Difficult last clip. Hamish Jackson, Sep 1994.">The line of bolts (7) up the big slab 2m R of LGS. A well known test piece, originally bolted by Justin Kennedy and Richard Marshall circa 1987 but not climbed free until 1994! Difficult last clip. Hamish Jackson, Sep/94 1994.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="21" length="20m" name="Serial Driller"
      name  new="Serialfalse" Driller"number="" stars="***"
        value="Follow the steel to the right of Tour. Start at the layback crack and trend L at the top to the chain in the middle of the face. 9 BRs. John Domeney, Dec 1993.">Follow the steel to the right of Tour. Start at the layback crack and trend L at the top to the chain in the middle of the face. 9 BRs. John Domeney, Dec/93 1993.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="20m" name="Open Festering Wounds"
     name   new="Open Festering Wounds"false" number="" stars="**"
        value="Start as for Serial Driller. Move right at the third bolt and up past six more to a chain. John  Domeney, Jan 1994.">Start as for Serial Driller. Move right at the third bolt and up past six more to a chain. John  Domeney, Jan/94 1994.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="23" length="10m" name="Sequels of the Light"
    name    new="Sequels of the Light"false" number="" stars="*"
        value="The route finishes at a she-oak with a difficult slab move or two.. 4 BRs plus lower off.Evan Peacock, Dec 1992.">The route finishes at a she-oak with a difficult slab move or two.. 4 BRs plus lower off.Evan Peacock, Dec/92 1992.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="23" length="10m"
        name="Pathetic Nongs Steal Hangers, Yes I’m Talking to You Arsehole">Four 
        new="false" number="" stars="**"
        value="4 bolts up the groove 4m left of TWMD. A.Rosa, Oct/92. 1992.">4 bolts up the groove 4m left of TWMD. A.Rosa, Oct 1992.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Trad Wankers Must Die"
        new="false" number="" stars="**"
        value="Climb up the loose pedestal and through shattered rock to a move R at the third bolt on to more solid ground. Looks bad but is actually quite safe. 4 boltsBRs plus lower off. J.Domeney, S.Stojanovski, Oct/92.">Climb up the loose pedestal and through shattered rock to a move R at the third bolt on to more solid ground. Looks bad but is actually quite safe. 4 boltsBRs plus lower off. J.Domeney, S.Stojanovski, Oct/92.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="10m" name="Oh Joyous Lobotomy"
     name   new="Oh Joyous Lobotomy">A false" number="" stars="*"
        value="&quot;A route in the classic tradition of Waterworks Quarry. A route that will warm the hearts and minds of repeat ascentionists, chill them to the bone and make them sick to their stomachs. This route epitomises its creators hedonistic and sociopathic style and is a textbook case of man against rock, rock against gravity and gravity against the combined forces of Ramset and Ryobi. The first bolt, with its stark placement and uncompromising height off the deck, deftly describes mans inhumanity to man. It is also a vivid phallic symbol graphically outlining the first ascentionists subconscious insecurity about the size of his bit. The moves up the wall above form an abstract modern dance that brings to mind images of East European conflict especially the side-pull which is the key to reaching the third bolt and a new round of Geneva peace talks. A man will always return to old stomping grounds and search for his roots; pulling up on the crucial razor sharp undercut one can almost feel them. The heady aroma of vast African plains drifts tantalizingly through ones nostrils and momentarily the mists of time part, you run, then walk, then crawl back down the evolutionary chain until an apelike heave sends you scurrying up and over the crux. You pause to appreciate the moment and the true symbolism of the metaphor, but a glance at the vacant expanse looming high to the left tells you the best is still to come&quot;. John Domeney, Sep/93. 1993. Many have puzzled over this eliptic description, but most have scratched their heads and abandoned their search for the elusive climb, believing  it to be a complete figment of John's fertile imagination. The best bet is you move L after the 3 bolt on TWMD, and surmount the overhang via another (hidden) bolt over the lip to the lower-off. Enjoy!">&quot;A route in the classic tradition of Waterworks Quarry. A route that will warm the hearts and minds of repeat ascentionists, chill them to the bone and make them sick to their stomachs.
This route epitomises its creators hedonistic and sociopathic style and is a textbook case of man against rock, rock against gravity and gravity against the combined forces of Ramset and Ryobi.
The first bolt, with its stark placement and uncompromising height off the deck, deftly describes mans inhumanity to man. It is also a vivid phallic symbol graphically outlining the first ascentionists subconscious insecurity about the size of his bit. The moves up the wall above form an abstract modern dance that brings to mind images of East European conflict especially the side-pull which is the key to reaching the third bolt and a new round of Geneva peace talks.
A man will always return to old stomping grounds and search for his roots; pulling up on the crucial razor sharp undercut one can almost feel them. The heady aroma of vast African plains drifts tantalizingly through ones nostrils and momentarily the mists of time part, you run, then walk, then crawl back down the evolutionary chain until an apelike heave sends you scurrying up and over the crux. You pause to appreciate the moment and the true symbolism of the metaphor, but a glance at the vacant expanse looming high to the left tells you the best is still to come&quot;. John Domeney, Sep 1993.
Many have puzzled over this eliptic description, but most have scratched their heads and abandoned their search for the elusive climb, believing  it to be a complete figment of John's fertile imagination.
The best bet is you move L after the 3 bolt on TWMD, and surmount the overhang via another (hidden) bolt over the lip to the lower-off. Enjoy!</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="23" length="10m" name="Urban Renewal"
        new="false" number="" stars="**"
        value="UpStart immediatly to the R of TWMD. Straight up the corner diagonally left, finishing up Trad Wankers. 5 U bolts plus lower off. Evan Peacock, Dec/92 1992.">Up>Start immediatly to the R of TWMD. Straight up the corner diagonally left, finishing up Trad Wankers. 5 U bolts plus lower off. Evan Peacock, Dec/92 1992.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="19" length="10m" name="Drilling in the Name of"
        new="false" number="" stars="*"
        value="Start up Urban Renewal to the third hangerBR, move right past 2 U-boltsmore to finish at the Jesus chain. John Domeney, Dec/93 1993.">Start up Urban Renewal to the third hangerBR, move right past 2 U-boltsmore to finish at the Jesus chain. John Domeney, Dec/93 1993.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1617" length="10m"
        name="Jesus Built My Hammer Drill" new="false" number=""
        stars="**" value="At the RH end of the climable rock. The cliff classic, a chameleon of a route, changing all the time. 4 Us plus lower off. John Domeney, Oct/92Oct1992.">At the RH end of the climable rock. The cliff classic, a chameleon of a route, changing all the time. 4 Us plus lower off. John Domeney, Oct/92Oct1992.</climb></guide>