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<guide version="2" pagesize="500" guidestars="*">
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<header id="1" walk="25 min steep uphill" sun="Morning & midday sun" rock="Dolerite" name="Lowdina" intro="IMPORTANT: <br/>- There is currently a rail project underway at the main car park, there's no climbing access here Mon-Fri until further notice.<br/>- You need to be back at your car before dark (landowner request)<br/>- Clean and disinfect your footwear before climbing here (farm biosecurity).<br/><br/>Only a short drive from Hobart, Lowdina is an excellent winter trad crag in the South. The rock quality is very good, and the crag provides a wide-selection of interesting routes, each with their own unique flavour. Though the cliff only makes minor first impressions, its hidden gems will become gleamingly obvious as you explore it. Summer climbing here is unpleasant, as it's usually too hot and the grass seeds through these months are very annoying. Routes are listed in the guide from climbers left to right." history="In the beginning..<br/>Michael McHugh first noticed the cliff from the Trans Tasman passenger train window traveling between Devonport and Hobart. Not long after, McHugh with Peter Jackson visited the cliff and in 1968 with Bob McMahon, John Moore and Mendelt Tillema put up the first routes. Jackson also published the first guide in the early 1970s with about 30 routes containing his signature sketches. The original guide can be viewed at Libraries Tasmania - Archives History Room in Hobart.<br/><br/>Rock-stars, run-outs and burn-outs..<br/>Between the late eighties and early nineties, new route activity at Lowdina was intense. Most of the harder routes done during this period were by Evan Peacock, Garn Cooper and Al Adams. Martin Stone published a new guide in the mid-eighties but it soon became outdated. Evan Peacock and Colin Reed published a third guide in 1992 that formed the basis of the crag info later published in Craglets. In the mid-nineties interest in Lowdina waned for various reasons including the need to complete an indemnity form prior to visitation. During the 00s and 10s sporadic visitation meant a significant number of routes retreated under a liberal coating of Lowdina’s infamous lichen.<br/><br/>The future..<br/>Lowdina’s relative obscurity was set to change. During winter 2021, the crag sparked the interest of Christoph Speer, Hamish Jackson and Martin Brown, signifying the start of a modern revival. Recognising the value of the cliff for winter trad-climbing, work began on serious route cleaning, installation of lower-offs and replacement of the old carrot bolts, giving the crag a much needed face-lift. The guide has also been re-written, with the addition of topos to assist in route navigation, as well as revised route descriptions and some upgrades. During this period there has been significant new route activity spearheaded by Speer, Jackson, Brown and Broome." guide.type="header" guide.page="0" guide.id="0" guide.action="submit" acknowledgement="Originally published in Craglets by Evan Peacock. Route description and guide updates primarily by Christoph Speer. Crag revival work undertaken by Christoph Speer, Hamish Jackson and Martin Brown, with help from friends and the CCT." access="Special provisions are required to visit this cliff, and ongoing access is reliant on the climbing community doing the right thing. The cliff lies on private land, and the owners, N and R Bevan are very friendly people that are happy for people to climb here, as long as the following process in adhered to:<br/><br/>1. Clean, wash and disinfect your shoes thoroughly prior to coming (essential for farm biosecurity).<br/>2. Contact the Bevans at least the day prior to your trip (text preferred - 0418 604 286 or 6260 4286). Include in the text who is coming, in what car(s) and a time you will arrive.<br/>3. Sign onto the indemnity-form / register at the stile before you enter the property. You need to do this each time you visit.<br/>4. Leave a nice bottle of wine if you visit frequently - and make sure you're off the cliff and back at your car before dark.<br/><br/>Access to the cliff is located from the end of Lowdina Road in Campania (about 4.2km North of the town centre). A convenient parking area is located at the end of the road just after the old house at the railway-line.<br/><br/>Walk to the LHS of the old house above the railway-line to locate a wooden stile. Sign-in, then cross the fence here and start walking towards the cliff, keeping just left of the fence-line. Pass an old gate (close behind you) and head-up over a short hill, cross the field past some boulders and look for some more pink tape on a fence at the base of the hill. Keep following the rough track up the steep hill to arrive at the Bismark Buttress. Make your way along the base of the cliff-line to move between buttresses." camping="There is basic camping at Colebrook Park near the Craigbourne dam (10 mins NW of Lowdina), and Campania Flour Mill Campground 10 mins SE of Lowdina. <br/><br/>Please DO NOT camp on the Lowdina property itself." autonumber="true"/>
<text id="352" class="heading2">Gear and Grades</text>
<text id="353" class="text">A single rack of wires and a double rack of cams from BD #0.3 to #3 will suffice for most climbs, with a #4 and #5 being useful at times. Include RPs and micro-cams in your rack (doubles are ideal). A 60m single-rope is the go here.<br/><br/>Try any of the following recommended routes if time is short and you want the best:<br/><br/> <12 - Papillon, Tormentil, Oisin, Casuarina Crack<br/> 13 - Greenknowe, The Ants Pants, No Corruption<br/> 14 - Things to Do While Waiting for the Apocalypse, Strawberries<br/> 15 - Canary, Bismark, Jot Jot Splat, Grasshopper Island<br/> 16 - Subvert the Dominant Paradigm, Chocolate, Ulysses<br/> 17 - Hooter, Ungar, Virag, Snoober, Ferio, Chook Fever, Psoriasis<br/> 18 - The Danger Hog Shuffle, Wolftone, Anzac Day, Daytime Delinquents, Mother Earth, Mick Goes to Moonah, Time Warp, Electric Exercise Bike, Felix, Bulging Biceps, Boys in Bikinis<br/> 19 - Yoda, Something Scurrilous, Gecko, Don't Jolt That Bolt<br/> 20 - Liars and Losers, Illegal Move, Rogering the Rock, Authoritarian Ultranationalism<br/> 21 - Brittle Little Mothers, Balbatross, Bulging Triceps, Scaredy Cat<br/> 22 - Drury Line, Plasticine Thylacine, Acerb, Dougs Rat Roxanne, Ashlars Edge<br/> 23 - Albatross, Drury Line, Lumbar Cruncher, Punks and Lepers, Little Squeaky Feet<br/> 24+ - Wailing Wall, Bonsai, Radical Centrist</text>
<text id="349" class="heading2">Bolts</text>
<text id="350" class="text">Most of the old carrot bolts have now been removed and replaced with stainless steel fixed hangars or glue-ins. There are still a couple floating about yet to be replaced (noted in the descriptions). Any remaining carrots and mild steel FH's should be treated with much caution, they are likely 30+ years old now. Some old pitons are also still in-situ (mostly in good condition) - back these up where possible. As always, you should inspect all fixed gear before use - you are in charge of your safety.</text>
<text id="357" class="heading2">Quality</text>
<text id="358" class="text">Most of the popular routes have now been repeated and cleaned since the cliffs revival in 2021. Many of the routes here likely hadn't had a repeat ascent for close to 30 years - and as such, some routes have gained or lost stars depending on various factors. As such, the star ratings you see in this guide will be pretty accurate to the current quality of the route.<br/><br/>*** - Classic. One of the best at the grade in Tasmania.<br/>** - Memorable. Great climbing and one of the best at the crag.<br/>* - A good route that's worth doing.</text>
<text id="354" class="heading2">Birds & Ethics</text>
<text id="355" class="text">Much time, effort and money has gone into rejuvenating this crag for winter trad-climbing options close to Hobart. Please respect the land-owners wishes regarding access, remember that you are on private land and act accordingly. Please top-rope anchors through your own gear to avoid premature wear.<br/><br/>The ethic at this crag is traditional, and natural protection should be used where-ever reasonable placements exist (down to #2 RP placements). Whilst mixed routes are common here, the crag is not suited to fully bolted routes. To improve the climbing experience, some climbs have had their old bolts re-positioned, and in certain circumstances additional bolts have been added with permission of the the FA following wider consultation.<br/><br/>Peregrine Falcon's almost certainly nest around the cliff and have done so for many years, although the location of their current nest site in 2020-2022 era is unclear, with occasional sightings of birds only (not distress signals). In 2022 sightings have been reported in the far northern reaches of the crag. Previous nesting sites reportedly include one behind Bismark Buttress and one atop Virag Buttress. Please be on the look out and report sightings to the CCT peregrine stewards. If you start hearing a lot of squawking and/or start getting swooped, please climb elsewhere on the cliff to avoid disturbing the birds during their nesting season (usually between July - December).</text>
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<text class="heading3" id="157">Scharnhorst Buttress</text>
<text class="text" id="3">Rarely visited, Scharnhorst Buttress is at the far left hand end of the crag immediately before the the hillside turns to the south and into a gully. Beyond the gully the cliff-line peters out. Approaching from the right, the buttress is about 80m left of a narrow scree slope.</text>
<climb id="4" name="Scharnhorst" fa="Karl Prinz, Kevin Kiernan, Mary McWhirther, Feb 1975." stars="" number="1." length="15m" grade="12" extra="">Scharnhorst is the furthest left hand climb on the crag. The route climbs a groove, that continues up a contoured crack through a small roof. It roughly finishes up the nose of the buttress. Avoid the loose slabs on the left near the top.</climb>
<climb id="5" name="Blackheads and Beauty Spots" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Tim Olding, Aug 1988." stars="" number="2." length="15m" grade="16" extra="">Start in the alcove 6m right of Scharnhorst, off the top of the pillar. Step across and up to the ledge below the flake. Go up the right hand crack, then move left and up past the right hand edge of the flake, finishing up the crack. RPs and microcams useful.</climb>
<climb id="6" name="Drugs on Sunday" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Aug 1988." stars="" number="3." length="12m" grade="16" extra="">Start 8m right of Scharnhorst on the ledge below the brushed slab. Step up for the slope above, continue up to the next sloping ledge, then up the flake to the top. RPs and microcams useful.</climb>
<climb id="7" name="Better Get A Bucket" fa="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Nov 1991." stars="" number="4." length="18m" grade="24" extra="">Extremely bold face climbing with a technical finish. Start immediately left of The Spastic Acrobat on the left hand side of the arête. Climb to the horizontal at 3m (and place gear!) then launch for the bolt (hoping your belayer jumps downhill if you fall off clipping). Finish through the small roof on the left. RPs and microcams useful.</climb>
<climb id="8" name="The Spastic Acrobat" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Aug 1988." stars="" number="5." length="15m" grade="20" extra="">About 20m right of Scharnhorst; or 50m left and 30m downhill from Punks and Lepers. Look for a smooth, grey face split by a horizontal break near the top. Start just right of the obvious crack, and go straight up the face on RPs to a small ledge. Continue up on small holds and layaways (more RPs) to the horizontal, then crank through to the finger crack (lichenous) and the top.</climb>
<climb id="9" name="Seagull" fa="Mary McWhirther, Kevin Kiernan, Karl Prinz, Feb 1975." stars="" number="6." length="15m" grade="10" extra="">An isolated pinnacle lies between Vulpecula and Scharnhorst buttresses. Climb the crack that forms a sweeping s-curve up the right hand side of the buttress.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="158">Vulpecula / Punks and Lepers Buttress</text>
<text id="198" class="text">Some heady test-pieces and a nice hand crack. The following buttresses are located about 20m left of the narrow scree slope. There is a lower-off on the Punks and Lepers buttress.</text>
<image id="341" src="vp3.jpg" height="575" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Vulpecula / Punks and Lepers Buttress">
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<climb id="412" stars="*" extra="" number="7." name="Finger Lichen Super Crew" length="18m" grade="18" fa="Jeroen Jansen, Lawrence Wonhas, August 2022">On the South side of the Vulpecula Buttress is a nice looking crack-line starting from a large flake and ending in a headwall. Climb the crack, through the headwall (crux) and up to the top. Scramble off the back.</climb>
<climb id="413" stars="" extra="" number="8." name="Towards the A Horizen" length="18m" grade="13" fa="Lawrence Wonhas, Jeroen Jansen, August 2022">Takes the off-width crack just to the right of FLSC.</climb>
<climb id="414" stars="" extra="" number="9." name="Lord Cornflake" length="18m" grade="16" fa="Jeroen Jansen, Lawrence Wonhas, August 2022">Starts below the big roof, taking the line to the right of this, up the wall on the right (careful of loose flakes) and then leftwards to the top (belay as for FLSC).</climb>
<climb id="10" name="Vulpecula" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="9" guide.action="submit" fa="Kevin Kiernan, Karl Prinz, Mary McWhirther,Feb 1975." stars="" number="10." length="30m" grade="11" extra="">From the base of the buttress, climb the nose past loose flakes to a broad ledge. Scramble on up the blocky ledges, then finish up the obvious slab on the left hand side.</climb>
<climb id="343" stars="" extra="" number="11." name="Conjunctivitis" length="24m" grade="16" fa="Henry Garratt, Nov 2021">A short masochistic variant to Psoriasis. Take the off-width crack about 3 m left of the start of Psoriasis, trending right into the hand crack when this ends. Move right after this finishes and continue up Psoriasis to the DBB. Take a big cam.</climb>
<climb id="342" stars="*" extra="" number="12." name="Psoriasis" length="22m" grade="17" fa="Christoph Speer, Mark Passier, Henry Garratt, Nov 2021">The crack-line left of Punks and Lepers provides the easiest worthwhile route to the top of the buttress. Climb the short groove to a small ledge, then jam steeply through the bottomless crack to a stance below some keyed-in blocks. Avoid these by trending right onto the exposed face and follow the crack system above to lower-off as for P&L.</climb>
<climb id="11" name="Punks and Lepers" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Nov 1988." stars="***" number="13." length="22m" grade="22" extra="">Not for the inexperienced. In fact this is not the route for people of a nervous disposition, the accident-prone, the unlucky, the uninsured, those who are easily disheartened or those with loved ones. It is however, one of the more outstanding and challenging examples of the classic Lowdina face climbing style. Climb to the break, then up the face past the cracks to the top. RP placements appear 3.5m above the horizontal break, one set of RPs #2-5 are essential, with doubles of size 2 and 3 serving well. With nesting of RPs at the crux, and an attentive belayer while the nest of RPs goes in, the climb can be on-sighted fairly 'safely' (despite appearances).</climb>
<climb id="290" stars="*" extra="" number="14." name="Scaredy Cat" length="22m" grade="21" fa="Martin Brown, Hamish Jackson, Aug 2021">The crack-line right of Punks and Lepers is a fine companion-route that will also have you questioning your life choices. Climb easily up the lower crack to the top of the pedestal; then climb up the thin continuation crack. Finish up the short corner above to the lower-off on P & L. Small cams and RPs provide adequate protection at the crux - brass offsets are handy but not essential.</climb>
<climb id="344" stars="" extra="" number="15." name="Nerve Block" length="10m" grade="14" fa="Fraser L-R, Sammi Dos, Nov 2021">Take the hand crack past the block (it's in there) and follow it past a tricky move to a bollard belay. Walk-off down rocky gully behind the route.</climb>
<climb id="345" stars="" extra="" number="16." name="Pocket Rocket" length="12m" grade="15" fa="Sammi Dos, Fraser L-R , Nov 2021">Start-up the hand-crack to the block, traverse right and then follow the thin crack and face with all the confidence of RPs and microcams, to a bollard belay out left at the top.</climb>
<climb id="389" stars="" extra="" number="17." name="Dysmorphia" length="9m" grade="16" fa="Presumed to be Dave James and Tim Whelan. June 2021">To the right of and uphill from Nerve Block. Up slab from tiny gully then moving left to gain crack. Better than it looks...</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="159">Anzac Day Buttress</text>
<text id="199" class="text">Worth visiting for Anzac Day alone. The Anzac Day Buttresses are the two distinct buttresses located just before you hit the rock-scree slope if approaching from the right. There is a lower-off at the top of Anzac Day.</text>
<image id="371" src="Anzac Day.jpg" height="600" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Anzac Day Buttress" legendx="16" legendy="14">
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<legend>
<climb>12</climb>
<climb>13</climb>
<climb>396</climb>
<climb>420</climb>
<climb>15</climb>
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<climb id="12" name="Torque Arm" fa="Dave Humphries, John Buttery, Jul 1984." stars="" number="18." length="15m" grade="16" extra="">This route climbs the wall which forms the left hand side of the Ape chimney. Gain the corner-groove just off the ground and climb up it, passing right of the small roof. Cross left into the groove and climb this until able to move right into the crack and to the top.</climb>
<climb id="13" name="Ape" fa="Chris Viney, Brendan Moore, Apr 1972." stars="" number="19." length="20m" grade="10" extra="">Located 7m left of Anzac Day on a small buttress topped by a prominent 4m flake. Climb the narrow flaring chimney immediately to its left.</climb>
<climb id="399" stars="" extra="" number="20." name="Dia De Los Muertos" length="20m" grade="16" fa="Jeroen Jansen, Vanessa Tonet, Aug 2022">Climb the gaping, cheese-grater off-width left of Tongerlongeter Day. Big gear is useful but not necessary.</climb>
<climb id="396" stars="" extra="" number="21." name="Tongerlongeter Day" length="20m" grade="19" fa="Jeroen Jansen, Jai Friend, August 2022">A serious undertaking. Named after an Indigenous war hero in the Frontier Wars. As for Anzac day to the first roof, then go left through the roof to navigate loose blocks above, finishing up the left wall to lower-off.</climb>
<climb id="420" stars="**" extra="" number="22." name="Anzac Day" length="20m" grade="18" fa="Dave Humphries, John Buttery, Jul 1984 (Original). Christoph Speer, Mark Passier, Rachel Chong, July 2022 (variant start).">Has seen off more campaigns than Gallipoli. Start at the base of the slab on the LHS arete and climb boldly up to the horizontal break (first piece at 4m). Up the crack and pass the second roof on the right, then climb the wall and cracks above taking care with a suspect flake (small wires come in handy). A better protected RH variant follows the crack right of the slab, then traverses left under the first roof to join the original. Lower-off on top of buttress.</climb>
<climb id="15" name="Lejand" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="14" guide.action="submit" fa="Jeremy Rackham, Anna Hasan, Apr 1992." stars="" number="23." length="12m" grade="15" extra="">We are all striving to be one, aren't we? Start below the roof 2m right of Anzac Day and climb the arête and crack above to a large ledge. Move left to regain the arête, then up the right hand side of the wall to the top and DBB. Careful of loose rock.</climb>
<text id="244" class="heading3">Mick Goes to Moonah, Boys in Bikinis & Casuarina Crack Area</text>
<text id="233" class="text">A range of nice routes. The next set of climbs are located in a small amphitheatre above the Anzac Day Buttress to climbers right. Head up the short gully from the track, just before you get to the Anzac Day Buttresses. There are lower-offs on each buttress for easy descent.</text>
<image id="265" src="chook feve.jpg" height="933" width="700" legend="true" legendTitle="Mick Goes to Moonah Buttress">
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<legend>
<climb/>
<climb>16</climb>
<climb>17</climb>
<climb>18</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="16" name="Mick Goes to Moonah" fa="Dave Humphries, John Buttery, Jul 1984." stars="*" number="24." length="15m" grade="18" extra="">Thought-provoking, delicate face climbing up the groove and thin crack on the nose of the buttress. RPs, small wires and micro-cams provide plenty of adequate protection. Lower-off.</climb>
<climb id="17" name="Chook Fever" fa="Dave Humphries, John Buttery, Jul 1984." stars="*" number="25." length="15m" grade="17" extra="">Fist jammers apply within - desperate if you have small hands! Follows the enticing clean crack-line up yellowish rock, on right hand side of the buttress. A thoughtful move to surmount the initial bulge, then continue up the line to battle the fist crack to a ledge. Traverse left and up from this to reach a lower-off.</climb>
<climb id="18" name="Miss Right Body" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="17" guide.action="submit" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Nic Deka, May 1986." stars="" number="26." length="20m" grade="16" extra="">Worth a sneaky look. Starts 3m right of Chook Fever at the slab. Up the face into the crack-line, finishing up the wide crack. Trad belay and walk-off.</climb>
<image id="372" src="Boys in Bikinis.jpg" height="933" width="700" legend="true" legendTitle="Boys in Bikinis Buttress">
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<legend>
<climb>19</climb>
<climb>20</climb>
<climb>21</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="19" name="Boys in Bikinis" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="18" guide.action="submit" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Jun 1988. Fixed pin replaced with bolt in 2022 with FA's permission." stars="*" number="27." length="15m" grade="18" extra="Mixed">Start in the corner left of the roof and bridge your way up past an interesting cam placement and a good RP, until you can layback the flakes on the LHS of the buttress proper. Trend right past a bolt with difficulty to enter the crack-line on the RHS of the buttress (crux). Continue up the nose of the buttress, with a pants-filling run-out at the top.</climb>
<climb id="20" name="What Bunny Likes Best" fa="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, May 1992." stars="" number="28." length="15m" grade="22" extra="Mixed">The face between Boys in Bikinis and Jot Jot Splat. Climb up past an ancient FH and several wires (crack needs a brush) to the lower-off. Somewhat contrived trying to stay out of Jot Jot Splat.</climb>
<climb id="21" name="Jot Jot Splat" fa="Evan Peacock, May 1990." stars="*" number="29." length="15m" grade="15" extra="">Not bad. The corner crack which widens from hands through to off-width at the top. Jam and bridge your way to the top. DBB lower-off.</climb>
<image id="267" src="casuarinacrack1.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Casuarina Crack">
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<climb>246</climb>
<climb>406</climb>
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<climb id="246" stars="*" extra="" number="30." name="Casuarina Crack" length="20m" grade="10" fa="Christoph Speer, Martin Brown, July 2021">Reputedly sandbagged. Located between Jot Jot Splat and the top of the Tormentil Buttress on the same contour, is an obvious hand crack to the right of a large She-oak tree. Follow the well protected crack and rap-off trees at top. Alternatively, you can walk down the 'pleasure gully' to the left.</climb>
<climb id="406" stars="" extra="" number="31." name="Cruxy Demons" length="20m" grade="17" fa="T. Fulton, P. Higgins, D. Morley, B. Fulton. Aug 2022">Something to do while waiting for your turn on Casuarina Crack. Climb the gully to the R of the face. Step left and up into the steep corner (RP's helpful here). Up to the rooflet and then squirm to the left using your belly where you can (make sure you extend your pro before traversing!). Up Casuarina Crack to finish.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="160">Finn Buttress</text>
<text id="202" class="text">Finn is located on a separate buttress of its own about 25m left of Tormentil Buttress. The buttress has a series of blocky towers as prominent features.</text>
<climb id="22" name="Finn" fa="Robert McMahon, Peter Jackson, Chris Viney, 1969." stars="" length="25m" grade="8" extra="" number="32.">From the block at the base of buttress, follow the weakness straight up the nose which steepens at the top. About as loose as it looks!</climb>
<text id="201" class="heading3">Tormentil Buttress</text>
<text id="203" class="text">A couple of good routes, Tormentil is well worth doing if you're climbing at easier grades. Tormentil Buttress is located in a small amphitheatre downhill and just past the Delinquents area. There are lower-offs at the top of Tormentil and Tim's Excuses. From above Tormentil you can take a short track to climbers left to get to Casuarina Crack and the base of Mick goes to Moonah Buttress.</text>
<image id="236" src="Tormentil.jpg" height="600" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Tormentil Buttress">
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<legend>
<climb>23</climb>
<climb>24</climb>
<climb>25</climb>
<climb>26</climb>
<climb>27</climb>
<climb>28</climb>
<climb>29</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="23" name="Bumbly" fa="Peter Jackson, Lyle Closs, May 1971." stars="*" number="33." length="25m" grade="10" extra="">Go left around the base of the buttress and uphill to where an obvious ledge leads back right towards the nose. Follow the ledge then climb the crack to the ledge above Cromlech. Finish up the broken crack above, or via the nose on the left. Take double ropes or fold your single in half.</climb>
<climb id="24" name="Tim's Excuses" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Sep 1991." stars="*" number="34." length="25m" grade="19" extra="">Takes the thin line just left of the chimney (Cromlech). Surmount the lego at the base and follow the thin, well-protected crack to the top and lower-off. The crux moves are a little contrived and start above a ledge (though they can be appropriately protected).</climb>
<climb id="25" name="Cromlech" fa="Robert McMahon, Peter Jackson, Chris Viney, 1969." length="18m" grade="13" extra="" number="35." stars="">The chimney a few metres to the left of Tormentil. Climb the chimney which is loose at first and awkward in spots (sounds delightful).</climb>
<climb id="26" name="Tormentil" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="25" guide.action="submit" fa="Peter Jackson, Robert McMahon, Chris Viney, 1969." stars="*" number="36." length="15m" grade="11" extra="">Quite good - one of the original routes here. Climb the smooth curving right-facing corner crack, located just to the right of the base of the buttress. Despite looks you don't need off-width gear.</climb>
<climb id="27" name="Humber" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Sep 1991." stars="" number="37." length="15m" grade="15" extra="">Climb the face 1m right of Tormentil. The key runner placement requires some thought but is bomber. The rest is about as unprotected as it looks.</climb>
<climb id="28" name="Garage Sale" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Sep 1991." stars="" number="38." length="12m" grade="17" extra="">Start about 15m right of Humber on a slab, just past a roof-capped mini-buttress. Climb the left hand of the two lines, finishing up the hand crack.</climb>
<climb id="29" name="Little Black Balls" fa="Colin Reed, Evan Peacock, Sep 1991." stars="" number="39." length="12m" grade="11" extra="">Seldom climbed. Takes the line just right of Garage Sale. Poor gear off the ground.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="161">Delinquents Area</text>
<text id="277" class="text">A nice area with a range of absorbing routes. Find this area by spotting two very prominent, large buttresses located just uphill as you come past the Oisin buttress from the right. Lower-offs are on each buttress for descent.</text>
<image id="327" src="R Rock App.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Delinquents Buttress">
<drawing>
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<rect id="21515" x="54" y="648" width="120" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="To Tormentil Buttress" arrowDirection="south_west"/>
<rect id="31829" x="346" y="652" width="185" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="To Something Scurrillous Buttress" arrowDirection="south_east"/>
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<legend>
<climb>32</climb>
<climb>33</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="30" name="Maggot On A Brick" fa="Garn Cooper, Richard Bottomley, Lucas Bottomley, Anna Hasan, May 1991." stars="" number="40." length="8m" grade="22" extra="Mixed (carrots)">The short sheltered slab about 30m left and up from Daytime Delinquents. Climb the slab past 3 cruxes and 2 rusty old bolts.</climb>
<climb id="31" name="The Naughty Bottom Burp" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Roger Parkyn, Jun 1990." stars="" number="41." length="12m" grade="20" extra="">Start about 20m L of Rogering the Rock on a small separate buttress with a clean face line and chockstone filled chimney on the R at a sag bush. Climb up to the ledge on the LH side and a #2RP, then continue back R to the horizontal break. Climb up the sloping ledge and a knifeblade runner, then up to the top, trying not to rain loose blocks onto your belayer.</climb>
<climb id="32" name="Rogering the Rock" fa="Roger Parkyn, Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Jun 1990." stars="*" number="42." length="20m" grade="20" extra="Mixed (carrots)">The result of some rather vigorous cleaning techniques... Start immediately left of Daytime Delinquents on a wide angles orange corner below a roof. Climb the corner past a carrot bolt on the R, then trend left to a large ledge before finishing up the arête and over to DBB.</climb>
<climb id="33" name="Daytime Delinquents" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="32" guide.action="submit" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Dec 1984." stars="*" number="43." length="15m" grade="18" extra="">Absorbing climbing. Follow the corner system to the roof being mindful of some hollow sounding rock, then break-out left to a stance at the arete. Up past the roof trending right, and into a straightforward thin crack to a lower-off.</climb>
<image id="328" src="Squeaky App.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Squeaky Feet Wall">
<drawing>
<path id="16961" points="296.0,688.0, 295.0,688.0, 277.0,486.0, 259.0,378.0, 222.0,257.0, 191.0,43.0,lower" d="M296.0,688.0C296.0,687.6 295.0,688.4 295.0,688.0C295.0,687.6 282.1,529.5 277.0,486.0C271.9,442.5 269.2,420.6 259.0,378.0C248.8,335.4 232.1,306.6 222.0,257.0C211.9,207.4 203.4,128.6 191.0,43.0" linkedTo="34"/>
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</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>34</climb>
<climb>35</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<image id="329" src="Scurrilous App.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Something Scurrilous Buttress">
<drawing>
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<path id="74139" points="433.0,731.0, 404.0,579.0, 382.0,425.0, 361.0,350.0, 347.0,297.0, 358.0,265.0, 351.0,234.0, 325.0,174.0, 269.0,122.0," d="M433.0,731.0C421.4,670.2 414.2,640.1 404.0,579.0C393.8,517.9 387.7,455.6 382.0,425.0C376.3,394.4 366.8,371.2 361.0,350.0C355.2,328.8 347.5,310.5 347.0,297.0C346.5,283.5 357.2,277.7 358.0,265.0C358.8,252.3 355.3,246.0 351.0,234.0C346.7,222.0 340.5,195.1 325.0,174.0C309.5,152.9 291.4,142.8 269.0,122.0" linkedTo="36"/>
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<rect id="47282" x="455" y="683" width="98" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="To Oisin Buttress" arrowDirection="south_east"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>35</climb>
<climb>36</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="34" name="Little Squeaky Feet" fa="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Al Adams, Colin Reed, Dec 1991." stars="**" number="44." length="22m" grade="23" extra="">Even with the dodgy #1 camalot, this is one of the more serious leads amongst many at Lowdina. Start uphill on the LHS of the Something Scurrilous Buttress, locating a leftward trending RP crack-line on the south face (the first RP is placed off the tree branch!). Follow the seam up the overhanging wall, past the infamous camelot placement and a couple more 'interesting' pieces to DBB lower-off. Small offset Aliens are useful. A good line, but is slightly marred by a step left into the gully/crack that is all too tempting during the desperate crux section at half height.<br/><br/><br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="35" name="Something Scurrilous" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="34" guide.action="submit" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Jun 1990." stars="**" number="45." length="25m" grade="19" extra="Mixed">A varied and well-protected outing. Starting from the left side of the face at a tree, follow the crack system up the face to a delicate stance below a bolt. Pass this into the hand-crack above (crux), then hand traverse out right around the jammed block to a difficult mantle to gain the thin crack system above. Follow this to the top and lower-off.</climb>
<climb id="36" name="Mega Smegma" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Roger Parkyn, Jun 1990." stars="" number="46." length="25m" grade="16" extra="">This route isn't the only thing requiring cleaning. Start at the weakness 3m right of Something Scurrilous. Climb the line to the bulge and pull through it on layaways. Continue up the tight handcrack to where it veers right. Continue up using a layaway edge and move L out into the chimney. Step around the arete and clip the DBB to lower-off.</climb>
<climb id="37" name="Genetic Junk Yard" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Colin Reed, Dec 1991." stars="" number="47." length="25m" grade="16" extra="">Start on the downhill prow of the Catoblepas buttress, on a brushed slab. Climb easily up the slab to the roof, through this (RP runner) and continue easily.</climb>
<climb id="38" name="Catoblepas" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="37" guide.action="submit" fa="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Simon Stubbs, Oct 1988." stars="" number="48." length="20m" grade="14" extra="">About 10m L of Oisin is another large buttress. The line starts in a widish crack on the RH side of the buttress, then trends L onto the eastward facing side. Continue straight up with the crux at the top.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="162">Oisin and Alekhines Defence Buttress</text>
<text id="314" class="text">The large buttress with an obvious wide crack (Oisin) running through the nose. The buttress can be accessed easily from where the orange-taped track splits off to the Ferio Buttress. Rap-off the tree at the top.</text>
<image id="330" src="Oisin App.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Oisin Buttress">
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<rect id="99470" x="456" y="199" width="106" height="50" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="Ferio & <br/>Alekhines Defence<br/>Buttress" arrowDirection="south"/>
<rect id="10644" x="71" y="747" width="184" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="To Something Scurrilous Buttress" arrowDirection="west"/>
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<legend>
<climb>39</climb>
<climb>40</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="39" name="Oisin" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="38" guide.action="submit" fa="Robert McMahon, Peter Jackson, Chris Viney, 1969." stars="*" number="49." length="20m" grade="11" extra="">The flakes on the right should be treated with care, as should the possum! Climbs the wide crack on the big buttress, starting from the elevated rock platform which you gain from the Ferio area. Rap-off tree at top.</climb>
<climb id="40" name="Mulliners Code" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="39" guide.action="submit" fa="Peter Jackson, Bob deCesare, Jan 1981." stars="" number="50." length="20m" grade="16" extra="">A major disappointment once you have done the flake. Climb the crack up the LHS of a flake 3m R of Oisin (of dubious attachment). Either continue up the dirty gully above, or move L and climb the RH edge of the delicately stacked flakes just R of Oison.</climb>
<image id="331" src="Alehkines App.jpg" height="525" width="700" legend="true" legendTitle="Alekhines Defence" legendx="12" legendy="35">
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<legend>
<climb>42</climb>
<climb>43</climb>
<climb>44</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="41" name="Maelstrom" fa="Evan Peacock, Aug 1988." stars="" number="51." length="20m" grade="18" extra="">The slightly overhanging problem just R of Mulliner's Code. Climb up into the small sentry box until the line joins the aforementioned then continue up that line.</climb>
<climb id="42" name="Ploughman's Launch" fa="Evan Peacock, Sep 1989." stars="" number="52." length="20m" grade="18" extra="">The line just L of the Alekhine's Defence buttress. Climb the arête carefully on large holds to the horizontal break at 4m where runners appear. Continue up Mulliner's Code.</climb>
<climb id="43" name="Gecko" fa="Adrian Herington, Doug Bruce, 1985." stars="**" number="53." length="12m" grade="19" extra="">The direct start and finish to Alekhines Defence, and the better of the two. The poorly protected start doesn't detract from what is a superb piece of climbing. Excellent small wires and cams start from about 5m up.</climb>
<climb id="44" name="Alekhines Defence" fa="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Oct 1984." stars="*" number="54." length="12m" grade="19" extra="">Start up the slab on the right hand side and climb through the overlap (poorly protected). Continue up the face trending diagonally left, finishing up the groove on the left. RPs, wires and finger sized cams are the go.</climb>
<text id="243" class="heading3">Ferio Buttress</text>
<text id="278" class="text">For this area, take the uphill track as you pass Directissimo Man instead of following the orange-taped track down the hill. Lower-offs have been installed for convenient descent from the routes.</text>
<image id="332" src="Ferio LHS App.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Ferio Buttress LHS">
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<legend>
<climb>45</climb>
<climb>46</climb>
<climb>47</climb>
<climb>48</climb>
<climb>49</climb>
<climb>419</climb>
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</image>
<climb id="335" stars="" extra="4Þ" number="55." name="Unknown route" length="20m" grade="?" fa="Unkown project / FA (Not described in original EP guide)">The undescribed, unnamed and unknown route up the overhanging wall to the left of Electric Exercise Bike.</climb>
<climb id="45" name="Electric Exercise Bike" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Oct 1984." stars="*" number="56." length="18m" grade="18" extra="">Very classy. Despite appearances, good RP and micro-cam protection on the slab is available, though it may not be immediately obvious. Climb the groove/layaway to the left of the narrow chimney until you can trend left onto the slab. Climb this, with a hard move to obtain the crack system and small ledge. Saunter on up the easy crack to the top and lower-off.</climb>
<climb id="46" name="Liars and Losers" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, May 1990. Re-bolted (1st bolt added with FA permission) in 2022." stars="**" number="57." length="20m" grade="20" extra="Mixed">A quality route, following the face and LH arête of the buttress. Head up the arete and through a bulge past two bolts to a stance. Arrange some snazzy RP placements and an optional BD#0 cam then move up to the salvation of another bolt. Continue up the face/arête past some cam placements around the left of the arete to finish and lower-off. <br/><br/>Gear: Take RPs and a single rack of cams from BD# 0.2 - 0.5 (a BD #0 provides some additional confidence!).</climb>
<climb id="47" name="Bicycles Don't Fly" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Aug 1985." stars="*" number="58." length="20m" grade="17" extra="">Want a bet? A nice variant to the Ants Pants which tackles the face and bulge instead of the chimney. Start up the crack/face to the overlap, hit the bulge direct (good wire) and delicately climb the face above. Continue up the RHS of the face past the overhang, then up the middle of the face direct to the DBB lower-off. Despite appearances, protection is very good.</climb>
<climb id="48" name="The Ants Pants" fa="Bob Bull, John Moore, Apr 1971." stars="*" number="59." length="20m" grade="13" extra="">A very naughty possum jumped onto Chris whilst he was cleaning and anchoring this buttress during the crag's revival. Now clean, and the possum evicted, this is quite a pleasant lead for the grade. Follow the crack up the face of the buttress, stepping left at the top to clip the chains.</climb>
<climb id="49" name="Don't Jolt That Bolt" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Sep 1985. Re-bolted (1st bolt added with FA permission) in 2022." stars="*" number="60." length="20m" grade="19" extra="Mixed">Add a grade if you're short. Carefully climb the RHS arete to the first bolt (stick-clip is a good idea), then move up and left past the small overlap. Continue straight-up the face past the second bolt (crux) with some choice moves. Hunt out the small wire behind the flake/jug and continue up to a vague stance. Either pike out into the Ants Pants here, or continue up the face on RPs for the full tick. Finish left up the Ants Pants to the lower-off.</climb>
<image id="229" src="IMG20210530153026.jpg" height="600" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Ferio Buttress RHS">
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</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>49</climb>
<climb>50</climb>
<climb>51</climb>
<climb>52</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="50" name="Ferio" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="49" guide.action="submit" fa="Peter Jackson, Michael McHugh, Di Batten, Jan 1971." stars="**" number="61." length="15m" grade="17" extra="">The classic of the buttress that will make you feel like a hero. Starting at the base of the corner, layback and jam up the corner to the DBB lower-off.</climb>
<climb id="51" name="Tall Dudes" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="50" guide.action="submit" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Jun 1988." stars="**" number="62." length="15m" grade="21" extra="">Originally started through the groove until a key hold was pulled-off. Start up Ferio to the thin ledge on the right wall. Purchase some life insurance, then boldly head-out right and climb the arete (crux). Excellent climbing, but a poorly protected lead.</climb>
<climb id="52" name="Picnic in the Front Room" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Steve Ford, Steve Carter, Jan 1990." stars="*" number="63." length="15m" grade="22" extra="">Follows the incipient crack 3m R and around the corner from Tall Dudes. Follow the fused crack until it ends - the crux is protected with a #0 friend. Step L and finish up Tall Dudes.</climb>
<text id="288" class="heading3">Directissimo Man, Cryptic Clue and Mr Queasy Area</text>
<text id="289" class="text">The next routes are located between the Ferio Buttress and the Zundapp Alcove in an amphitheatre of rock. The track runs straight past the base of Directissimo Man.</text>
<image id="325" src="Direct Man App.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Directissimo Man Buttress" legendx="8" legendy="6">
<drawing>
<path id="93758" points="350.0,737.0, 349.0,737.0, 361.0,476.0, 392.0,352.0, 344.0,230.0, 328.0,116.0,belay" d="M350.0,737.0C350.0,736.6 349.0,737.4 349.0,737.0C349.0,736.6 355.3,526.8 361.0,476.0C366.7,425.2 395.5,403.0 392.0,352.0C388.5,301.0 356.1,274.4 344.0,230.0C331.9,185.6 334.4,161.6 328.0,116.0" linkedTo="53"/>
<rect id="39754" x="416" y="115" width="118" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="Cryptic Clue Buttress" arrowDirection="south_east"/>
<rect id="78021" x="160" y="148" width="81" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="Ferio Buttress" arrowDirection="south"/>
<path id="78761" points="523.0,708.0, 470.0,495.0, 440.0,409.0, 411.0,339.0, 370.0,243.0, 350.0,170.0,belay" d="M523.0,708.0C501.8,622.8 479.7,530.1 470.0,495.0C460.3,459.9 450.7,437.3 440.0,409.0C429.3,380.7 422.8,366.9 411.0,339.0C399.2,311.1 380.3,271.5 370.0,243.0C359.7,214.5 358.0,199.2 350.0,170.0" lineStyle="dotted" linkedTo="374"/>
<rect id="18443" x="94" y="80" width="59" height="50" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="Alekhines<br/>Defence<br/>Buttress" arrowDirection="south_west"/>
<rect id="72779" x="56" y="755" width="184" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="To Something Scurrilous Buttress" arrowDirection="west"/>
<rect id="95369" x="426" y="761" width="114" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="To Bismark Buttress" arrowDirection="east"/>
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<legend>
<climb>53</climb>
<climb>374</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="53" name="Directissimo Man" fa="Al Adams, Jul 1984." stars="" number="64." length="8m" grade="12" extra="">Climbs the nose of the buttress which you come across just before the Ferio Buttress. From the base of the flat rock platform, climb the obvious crack and face holds to the top. Walk-off.</climb>
<climb id="374" stars="" extra="" number="65." name="Directissimo Girls" length="8m" grade="9" fa="Bonnie MacAdam, Vanessa Tonet, May 2022">Reading the guide to find the route optional. Climb the loose and mossy chimney to the right of the buttress. Delightful.</climb>
<image id="333" src="Cryptic Clue App.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Cryptic Clue Buttress">
<drawing>
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</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>54</climb>
<climb>55</climb>
<climb>56</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem id="54" name="Fadel" fa="Colleen McCullough, Noel Ferrier, Jun 1990." stars="" number="66." grade="V1" extra="">The boulder problem immediately L of Cryptic Clue (past the chimney).</problem>
<climb id="55" name="Cryptic Clue" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Oct 1988." stars="" number="67." length="10m" grade="22" extra="Mixed">Another utterly contrived test piece. Uphill in the gully L of Mr Queasy is a blank looking wall broken by a horizontal at about 7m. Climb the face on the LH side of the wall using a bolt and a pin for protection (still there in Oct 2021) - but the LH arête is out of bounds! There are two loose blocks at the top, though they are keyed in.</climb>
<climb id="56" name="Anagram" fa="Evan Peacock, Al Adams, Oct 1988." stars="" number="68." length="10m" grade="21" extra="">The face to the right of Cryptic Clue. Start on the RH edge, on face moves. Mantle up onto some slopes, stand, place RPs, then follow the incipient crack to the horizontal break. Finish straight up on good face holds.</climb>
<climb id="60" name="Konked Out" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Jul 1988." stars="" number="69." length="12m" grade="16" extra="">At the beginning of the notch is a prominent slab on the uphill side. Climb the slab to the ledge, then up the groove and through the bulge on the R.</climb>
<climb id="57" name="Ode to a Robotic Arm" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Jun 1990." stars="" number="70." length="15m" grade="19M1" extra="Mixed">Across the small gully right of Anagram is a brushed face with a thin crackline starting at half height. Climb the easy crack to a ledge and a #2RP aid move (or if you have a robotic arm climb it free via a desperately wide pinching layaway - awaiting a FFA). Clip the BR from a small edge, then continue up to a horizontal break and easy ground once the crack is attained.</climb>
<image id="415" src="Mr Quesy App.jpg" height="667" width="500" legend="true" legendTitle="Mr Queasy Buttress">
<drawing>
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<legend>
<climb>59</climb>
<climb>403</climb>
<climb>404</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="58" name="Toes and Thumbs" fa="Greg Aimer, Chrissy Freestone, 1991." length="12m" grade="13" extra="" number="71." stars="">Left of Mr Queasy. Follow the corner/crack system to the ledge and tree.<br/><br/>Editors Note 2021: Needs a brush</climb>
<climb id="59" name="Mr Queasy" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Simon Stubbs, Bruce Newman, Sep 1988." stars="" number="72." length="12m" grade="18" extra="">Go down the notch mentioned in Konked Out for 5m and on the L is a short handcrack. Belay at the eucalypt and climb the crack to the horizontal break. Surmount the bulge above for a slightly queasy experience, then reach through to a large ledge.</climb>
<climb id="403" stars="" extra="" number="73." name="Our People Are Nuts" length="12m" grade="18" fa="Jeroen Janson, Lawrence Wonhas, August 2022 (may have had an earlier ascent)">The face to the right of Mr Queasy. Mantle onto the ledge then follow the easy crack until a wedged block. Continue up the finger crack (crux) to the horizontal and then up the bulge to the top</climb>
<climb id="404" stars="" extra="" number="74." name="The Friends We Need / Entheogen" length="15m" grade="16" fa="Jeroen Janson, Lawrence Wonhas, August 2022 (Dave James and Shirley Zeng were beaten to the FA by a week, but added the direct start underneath the boulder at the base)">The big off-width right of 'Our People Are Nuts'. Start at the boulder beneath the base, through the gap, then up the off-width. Bring big cams (#5 and #6) for the upper section.</climb>
<text id="286" class="heading3">Zundapp Alcove, No Corruption, Fat and Married & Stung Buttress</text>
<text id="287" class="text">The Zundapp Alcove and Stung Buttress is the large amphitheatre of buttresses above the wattle grove, left of obvious Bismark Buttress and Perchance to Dream. There is a lower-off above Jesus Trousers / Time Warp.</text>
<image id="285" src="Zundapp area.jpg" height="600" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Zundapp Alcove">
<drawing>
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<path id="14467" points="368.0,161.0, 370.0,137.0, 365.0,105.0, 356.0,79.0, 352.0,60.0, 338.0,42.0,belay" d="M368.0,161.0C368.8,151.4 370.5,146.6 370.0,137.0C369.5,127.4 367.6,115.7 365.0,105.0C362.4,94.3 358.2,86.5 356.0,79.0C353.8,71.5 355.4,67.0 352.0,60.0C348.6,53.0 343.6,49.2 338.0,42.0" lineStyle="dotted" linkedTo="63"/>
<rect id="12297" x="476" y="147" width="86" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_yellow" text="Stung Buttress" arrowDirection="south"/>
<rect id="97150" x="614" y="175" width="79" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_yellow" text="Twilight Zone" arrowDirection="south"/>
<path id="24826" points="650.0,578.0, 597.0,495.0, 569.0,439.0, 536.0,359.0, 504.0,292.0, 486.0,226.0, 466.0,182.0,belay" d="M650.0,578.0C628.8,544.8 609.6,516.6 597.0,495.0C584.4,473.4 579.2,461.9 569.0,439.0C558.8,416.1 548.0,386.2 536.0,359.0C524.0,331.8 513.6,317.6 504.0,292.0C494.4,266.4 492.3,244.3 486.0,226.0C479.7,207.7 474.0,199.6 466.0,182.0" linkedTo="395"/>
<rect id="70767" x="679" y="209" width="83" height="36" style="black_text_on_solid_yellow" text="To Spazattack<br/>Buttress" arrowDirection="south_east"/>
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<legend>
<climb>61</climb>
<climb>62</climb>
<climb>395</climb>
<climb>63</climb>
<climb>64</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="61" name="Zundapp" fa="Evan Peacock, Al Adams, Jul 1988." stars="" number="75." length="20m" grade="18" extra="">Up the brushed face with incipient cracks (RPs). Continue through the bulge and slab above, to finish up the R side of a small roof which leads to a short corner.<br/><br/>Editors Note 2021: Originally ** but needs a brush and the dead-tree at the top turfing-off.</climb>
<climb id="62" name="Sundy Mockry" fa="Evan Peacock, May 1990." stars="" number="76." length="12m" grade="13" extra="">The obvious finger sized crack-line about 5m R of Zundapp. Best enjoyed as a first pitch to access Paunch.<br/><br/>Editors Note 2021: Needs a brush.</climb>
<climb id="395" stars="" extra="" number="77." name="Two Tired" length="12m" grade="13" fa="Liam Mangan-Smith, Neale Smith, July 2022">Finger crack 3m right of "Sunday Mockry". Head up until crack widens (Large cam handy). Either continue up to point where where it is possible to blindly step L into groove or enter groove from lowest point. A good pitch to access "Paunch".</climb>
<image id="225" src="Paunch.jpg" height="533" width="400" legend="true" legendTitle="Paunch Buttress" legendFooter="From 'Fat and Married'">
<drawing>
<path id="61726" points="21.0,525.0, 20.0,525.0, 45.0,431.0, 75.0,368.0, 118.0,328.0,belay" d="M21.0,525.0C21.1,524.6 19.9,525.4 20.0,525.0C20.1,524.6 35.8,457.3 45.0,431.0C54.2,404.7 61.4,387.2 75.0,368.0C88.6,348.8 100.8,344.0 118.0,328.0" linkedTo="62" lineStyle="dotted"/>
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</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>62</climb>
<climb>63</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="63" name="Paunch" fa="Peter Jackson, Mendelt Tillema, Feb 1971." stars="*" number="78." length="10m" grade="12" extra="">About 25m L of Stung and across a grass gully is a high buttress with a tree at its base and rounded orange "paunch" at half-height. Climb the crack through the bulges up the RH side of the buttress. Best enjoyed as a second pitch from Sundy Mockry.</climb>
<image id="224" src="Fat and married.jpg" height="533" width="400" legend="true" legendTitle="Fat and Married Buttress" legendFooter="Above No Corruption Buttress">
<drawing>
<path id="92973" points="267.0,492.0, 253.0,298.0, 201.0,205.0, 201.0,79.0,belay" d="M267.0,492.0C261.4,414.4 262.6,339.5 253.0,298.0C243.4,256.5 210.8,246.5 201.0,205.0C191.2,163.5 201.0,129.4 201.0,79.0" linkedTo="65"/>
<rect id="14865" x="48" y="476" width="110" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="To Paunch Buttress" arrowDirection="west"/>
<rect id="63920" x="267" y="63" width="86" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="Stung Buttress" arrowDirection="south_east"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>65</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="65" name="Fat and Married" fa="Evan Peacock, Tim Olding, Aug 1988." stars="" number="79." length="15m" grade="18" extra="">Lug your lard up this baby! Start at the big ledge that overlooks a grassy gully at the extreme LH end of Stung buttress. Climb the arête using layaways on the RHS then cross L and continue up the face to the top. Small gear and some loose rock.</climb>
<image id="418" src="No Corruption.jpg" height="450" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="No Corruption Buttress" legendFooter="Below Fat and Married Buttress">
<drawing>
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<rect id="98528" x="322" y="79" width="85" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="Stung Buttress" arrowDirection="south"/>
<path id="61380" points="380.0,219.0, 372.0,184.0, 361.0,166.0, 364.0,144.0," d="M380.0,219.0C376.8,205.0 374.8,191.9 372.0,184.0C369.2,176.1 362.7,174.3 361.0,166.0C359.3,157.7 367.3,151.0 364.0,144.0" linkedTo="68"/>
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<rect id="55670" x="440" y="406" width="112" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="To Bismark Buttress" arrowDirection="east"/>
<rect id="72369" x="43" y="410" width="108" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="To Zundapp Alcove" arrowDirection="west"/>
<rect id="43768" x="436" y="80" width="94" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="To Twilight Zone" arrowDirection="east"/>
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<legend>
<climb>64</climb>
<climb>68</climb>
<climb>69</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="64" name="No Corruption" fa="Russ Hinze, Terry Lewis, 1975 - 1998." stars="*" number="80." length="12m" grade="13" extra="">Found below Fat and Married on an isolated buttress, this route has caused quite a few new leaders to come unstuck on its tricky jams. The route takes the obvious crack up the center. Belay on top and walk-off to the right.</climb>
<image id="293" src="Timewarp2.jpeg.jpg" height="792" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Stung Buttress">
<drawing>
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<path id="23950" points="506.0,349.0, 453.0,270.0, 431.0,223.0," d="M506.0,349.0C484.8,317.4 463.6,287.8 453.0,270.0C442.4,252.2 438.6,242.3 431.0,223.0" linkedTo="69"/>
<rect id="87078" x="441" y="619" width="94" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="To Twilight Zone" arrowDirection="east"/>
<rect id="17867" x="432" y="657" width="112" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="To Bismark Buttress" arrowDirection="south_east"/>
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<legend>
<climb>67</climb>
<climb>68</climb>
<climb>69</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="66" name="Get Out Oscar" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Tim Albion, Oct 1990." stars="" number="81." length="12m" grade="17" extra="">Starts about 4m R of Fat and Married and just R of a chimney. A couple of unprotected but easy moves lead to a crack and bomber RP protection. Continue straight up into the bushes.</climb>
<climb id="67" name="Stung" fa="Chris Dawson, Mary McWhirther, Sep 1974." stars="" number="82." length="15m" grade="10" extra="">Climbs the short crack to the left of the flake on Jesus Trousers. Bush-bash walk-off.</climb>
<climb id="68" name="Jesus Trousers" fa="Phil Steane, Pete Steane, Noel Ward, Doug Fife, Oct 1982." stars="" number="83." length="12m" grade="15" extra="">A nice route. Hand-jam and bridge up the obvious corner-groove. Take care with the large flake. Step right to lower off.</climb>
<climb id="69" name="Time Warp" fa="Pete Steane, Doug Fife, Noel Ward, Oct 1982. Var: Nat Duhig, Mike Edwards, Nov 1986." stars="*" number="84." length="12m" grade="18" extra="">Quintessential Lowdina face climbing. Takes the thin crack up the face, starting just R of Jesus Trousers. Either start from the bottom of the buttress and trend right (recommended direct start - easy but unprotected) or step onto the face from the RHS of the arete in the gully. Follow the left-trending thin crack up the buttress using layaways, face-holds, RPs and wishful thinking. Lower-off.</climb>
<text id="294" class="heading3">The Twilight Zone</text>
<text id="295" class="text">Taking the track further uphill from the Spazattack Buttress will take you to the Twilight Zone. These are a series of short buttresses ending at a gully (Perchance to Dream Buttress). Further to the left from here is the Zundapp Alcove and Stung Buttress.</text>
<image id="315" src="Perchance.jpg" height="666" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Perchance to Dream Buttress">
<drawing>
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</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>307</climb>
<climb>70</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="346" stars="" extra="" number="85." name="Six shooter" length="10m" grade="17" fa="Henry Garratt, Mark Passier, Christoph Speer, Nov 2021">Just left of Nightmare at 10,000 mm is a gaping off-width. Climb this to the top and tree belay. Take some BD sixes and some finger-sized cams.</climb>
<climb id="307" stars="" extra="" number="86." name="Nightmare at 10,000 mm" length="10m" grade="14" fa="Christoph Speer, Henry Garratt, August 2021">Climb the obvious clean corner crack to the left of Perchance to Dream. A worthwhile warm-up. DBB Lower-off.</climb>
<climb id="70" name="Perchance to Dream" fa="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Pete Steane, Dec 1984." stars="**" number="87." length="20m" grade="18" extra="">Seldom done because of the location, but reportedly one of Garn's best FAs. Starts up an unlikely looking face and poised above is a block attached to a gently overhanging arête. Mount this as elegantly as possible and continue up the crack above. Walk-off to climbers left down the gully. A little dirty currently.</climb>
<image id="416" src="Contortionist.jpg" height="667" width="500" legend="true" legendTitle="The Contortionist Buttress">
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<climb>400</climb>
<climb>401</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="400" stars="" extra="" number="88." name="The Contortionist" length="8m" grade="18" fa="Christoph Speer, Jai Friend, August 2022">The short, thin finger-crack in a groove. Weird but interesting moves. Step right to lower-off.</climb>
<climb id="401" stars="" extra="" number="89." name="The Bearded Lady" length="8m" grade="14" fa="Christoph Speer, Jai Friend, August 2022">The short hand crack 2 m right of The Contortionist to DBB lower-off. Worth doing if you're already here - or just bored with life itself.</climb>
<image id="417" src="Dancing Shoes.jpg" height="667" width="500" legend="true" legendTitle="Dancing Shoes Buttress">
<drawing>
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<legend>
<climb>402</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="402" stars="" extra="Mixed" number="90." name="Dancing Shoes" length="10m" grade="13" fa="Christoph Speer, Jai Friend, August 2022">The slab above Morning Sun, past a #4 cam, single bolt and RPs and micro-cams in the fused seam. Lower-off. A good introductory route to RP and micro-cam placements before tackling the more challenging routes here in this style.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="164">Spazattack and Bismark Buttress (LHS)</text>
<text id="269" class="text">Located immediately uphill and left of Bismark Buttress. There are a number of lower-offs above the climbs that can be used to descend.</text>
<image id="394" src="IMG_2497 (1).jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Spazattack Buttress LHS">
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<legend>
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<climb>392</climb>
<climb>393</climb>
<climb>71</climb>
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<climb id="391" stars="*" extra="" number="91." name="Morning Sun" length="20m" grade="17" fa="Jeroen Jansen, Christoph Speer, July 2022">The furthest line left. Follow the delightful easy crack until you are forced to step right at the top below the thin finger crack. Consider the move, then follow this to the top of the buttress (crux). Step right to lower-off.</climb>
<climb id="392" stars="*" extra="" number="92." name="Things to do While Waiting for the Apocalypse" length="20m" grade="14" fa="Christoph Speer, Jeroen Jansen, July 2022">Consistent and well-protected. Follow the crack-line, with the crux at the top.</climb>
<climb id="393" stars="*" extra="" number="93." name="Mother Earth" length="17m" grade="18" fa="Christoph Speer, Jeroen Jansen, July 2022">So named due to the extent of excavation required to clean the route. Follow the tricky left leaning hand-crack to the chockstones (keyed-in), mount these into the tomb and head to the top and lower-off. Take a BD #4 - no bigger gear needed.</climb>
<image id="340" src="Bismark LHS.jpg" height="564" width="900" legend="true" legendTitle="Spazattack and Bismark Buttress LHS" legendx="713" legendy="15">
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<climb>391</climb>
<climb>392</climb>
<climb>393</climb>
<climb>71</climb>
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<climb>73</climb>
<climb>74</climb>
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<climb id="71" name="Spazattack" fa="Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Oct 1984." stars="*" number="94." length="20m" grade="18" extra="">Excellent climbing marred by a very poorly protected crux, requiring leaders to be confident at the grade. Start on the far LHS of the buttress and climb the face / flake, trending right to the horizontal break at 6m. Take a deep breath and commit to the bulge and seam-line above the ledge (RPs), aiming for the horizontal break (crux - a long reach helps). Continue up the face and LHS arete above with better protection to the lower-off.</climb>
<climb id="72" name="Spazattack Direct" fa="Top Rope: Evan Peacock, Justin Kennedy, Oct 1985. FFA: Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Jun 1990. Re-bolted in 2022." stars="*" number="95." length="20m" grade="23" extra="Mixed">The direct start to Spazattack, which takes the difficult right trending thin crack/layback past some small wires and a bolt, meeting the infamous ledge to join the original route.</climb>
<climb id="73" name="Drury Line" fa="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Feb 1992. Re-bolted / retro-bolted in 2022 with FA permission." stars="**" number="96." length="22m" grade="2322" extra="Mixed">Once a serious lead involving a 12 m starting solo and a 6 m runout. Now retro-bolted with the FA's permission, this route provides one of the best leads at Lowdina. The line tackles the roofs just right of Spazattack and is marked by guano courtesy of the local falcon. Up the face past 3 bolts to the horizontal break (finger sized cams), then do the boulder problem trending right (1st crux) past another bolt, to a stance below the first roof. From here, clip the last bolt (use a long draw) and trend left past the first roof (2nd crux), and up into the groove crack (good small wires and cams). Lower-off at top. Once graded 20!</climb>
<climb id="74" name="Being A Pirate" fa="Evan Peacock, Sep 1992." stars="" number="97." length="20m" grade="26" extra="Mixed">Good rock, but the upper bolted line ventures very close to R chimney. The overhanging arête 3m R of Drury Line. A desperate technical slab, followed by a strenuous journey up the arête around the roof. 4 FH's (some bolts rusted - inspect before clipping).</climb>
<climb id="75" name="Hooter" fa="Peter Jackson, Noel Ward, Doug Bruce, 1984." stars="***" number="98." length="23m" grade="17" extra="">A test-piece. From the base of the wide crack (Wetcheck), climb onto the face of the buttress with some excellent gear in the crack at 3m. Follow the exciting rising traverse left across a thin flake to a stance below a piton (still usable 2021 - back up with cam/nut). Continue straight-up the thin vertical crack-line on micro-cams to an easy mantle, and then more easily up the line to a ledge. Finish up the short wall above to a lower-off.</climb>
<climb id="76" name="Grasshopper Island" fa="Evan Peacock, Tim Albion, Colin Reed, 1992." stars="*" number="99." length="23m" grade="15" extra="">A fine companion line to Hooter. Start as for Hooter, but continue up the arete instead of traversing out left. Weave between the thin crack on the right, and the crack left of the arete to find the many good gear placements. RP's or a large cam come in handy between the first and second rooflet.</climb>
<climb id="77" name="Wetcheck" fa="John Moore, Peter Jackson, Aug 1970." stars="" number="100." length="20m" grade="13" extra="">The straight wide crack just right of Grasshopper Island. Minimal jamming required.</climb>
<climb id="78" name="Mrs Malaprop" fa="Evan Peacock, Al Adams, Grant Rowbottom, Aug 1992." stars="" number="101." length="15m" grade="17" extra="">The slab / face in the alcove just right of Wetcheck. Nice moves, but the runners are all dubious (small wires).</climb>
<climb id="79" name="V8 Donk" fa="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Feb 1992." stars="" number="102." length="25m" grade="18" extra="Mixed">Start immediately left of Hood on a ledge about 10m up. Gain the ledge from the left and climb to the horizontal break. Crux to the small ledge, then follow the #1 RP crack, before a mantle to easier ground. One carrot bolt (looks OK) and 1 FH (rusted - inspect before clipping).<br/><br/>Editors Note 2022: Route needs a clean before becoming approachable.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="165">Bismark Buttress (Centre)</text>
<text id="240" class="text">The first part of the cliff you'll come to if you followed the pink-taped track. There's a suite of routes on this buttress and a lower-off at the top of Bismark. The initial 10m of easy (and lichenous) rock can be avoided by walking in to the base of the climbs via the RHS past Illegal Move (facing the cliff).</text>
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<climb/>
<climb>75</climb>
<climb>77</climb>
<climb>80</climb>
<climb>81</climb>
<climb>82</climb>
<climb>83</climb>
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<climb id="80" name="Hood" fa="Michael McHugh, Robert McMahon, 1968." stars="*" number="103." length="30m" grade="16" extra="">The first route done at Lowdina is still pretty good. Start as for Bismark for 2m, then hand jam left onto the nose (could use a brush). Continue to the base of the wide crack, which is followed for 6m until able to step L onto the face. From the good foothold gain the wide crack above, and continue to the chimney and mantle-shelf finish. Use rap-station at the top of Bismark or Hooter for descent.</climb>
<climb id="81" name="Subvert the Dominant Paradigm" fa="Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, 1986." stars="**" number="104." length="20m" grade="16" extra="">Good rock and feels very exposed for the grade. Start as for Bismark and jam left under the small rooflet at 3m to establish yourself in the crack-line. Follow this straight-up until you reach the big roof, then make some wild moves out right using the massive flake to finish up the Bismark chimney to the lower-off.</climb>
<climb id="82" name="Bismark" fa="Michael McHugh, Peter Jackson, 1968." stars="*" number="105." length="20m" grade="15" extra="">The grunty looking wide crack in the prow of the Buttress is actually quite benevolent. Up the crack in the prow to the bulge and through it using small holds on the right. Continue past the small rooves and bridge the chimney to the top. DBB Lower-off.</climb>
<text id="370" class="heading3">Bismark Buttress (RHS)</text>
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<climb>83</climb>
<climb>84</climb>
<climb>86</climb>
<climb>87</climb>
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<climb id="83" name="Doug's Rat Roxanne" fa="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Jun 1991. Re-bolted / Retro-bolted (with FA permission) in 2022." stars="*" number="106." length="15m20m" grade="22" extra="Mixed">Climb the overhanging orange face R and around the arête from Bismark, starting from the top of the boulder. Difficulties past the 3 bolts, easing after this into the corner and then finishing up Bismark to its lower-off. Take a single rack of cams (BD# 0.3 - 2) for gear above the bolts.</climb>
<climb id="84" name="Felix" fa="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Grant Rowbottom, Aug 1992. Re-bolted / Retro-bolted (with FA permission) in 2023" stars="*" number="107." length="15m" grade="18" extra="Mixed">The>Great steep areteclimbing leftat ofthe Illegal Move provides quite the work-out. Scramblegrade - scramble into the gully to start. Follow the arete and intermittent cracks above past 3 bolts and some trad gear to a lower-off. Take small to medium wires and a single rack of cams from BD #0.2 - #3.</climb>
<climb id="85" name="Motorcycle Mama" fa="Evan Peacock, May 1990." stars="" number="108." length="12m" grade="12" extra="">A typical example of the Lowdina scene in the 90s. Start up in the gully above Felix and follow the obvious crack (careful of loose rock at the top). Walk-off right.</climb>
<climb id="86" name="Illegal Move" fa="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Sep 1985. Re-bolted in 2022" stars="*" number="109." length="15m" grade="20" extra="Mixed">Take small wires and a single rack of cams, and pre-clip the high bolt from the LHS first (stick-clip useful). Figure-out the boulder problem up the face of the buttress to a stance on a small ledge. Move past the bolt and into the groove (crux) then continue up the short finger crack. Easily to the top and trad-belay. Simple walk-off to the right.</climb>
<climb id="87" name="Otto Sausages" fa="Evan Peacock, Grant Rowbottom, Steve Ford, Aug 1992." stars="" number="110." length="12m" grade="18" extra="">Once a nice climb on RP's, now covered in lichen. Climb the thin crack to a horizontal break - careful of the hanging block on the left. Easy walk-off to the right down the gully.</climb>
<text id="369" class="heading3">Bonsai Buttress</text>
<text id="421" class="text">Located up the gully left of the Virag Buttress and above Illegal Move, where a clean orange/gray face stands at the head of the gully. Lower-off at the top.</text>
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<climb id="296" stars="*" extra="3Þ" number="111." name="Ukiyo-e" length="8m" grade="21" fa="H Jackson and M Brown July 2021">Start at bottom left of the Bonsai wall. Up the centre of the wall, using left arete as needed, then finish up left arete to the crux at the top.</climb>
<climb id="88" name="Bonsai" fa="Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson, Apr 1990 (2 additional bolts added with permission of FA in 2021)." stars="*" number="112." length="8m" grade="24" extra="3Þ">Originally a bold start, 2 additional bolts were added to save some ankles. From the bottom L of the face, climb up the line of face holds past a RP#3 to an unusual crux move on the upper arete (choose either a desperate dyno or cryptic static move). Lower-off. A variant start exists on the RHS of the arete - place a small cam in seam and move up to join the original line at the second bolt.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="166">Virag Buttress</text>
<text id="238" class="text">A popular buttress. Located just uphill and to the right of Bismark. A lower-off is located at the top of Virag for descent from the climbs.</text>
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<climb>90</climb>
<climb>91</climb>
<climb>92</climb>
<climb>93</climb>
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<climb id="89" name="Squawk" fa="Evan Peacock, Al Adams, Oct 1988." stars="" number="113." length="23m" grade="17" extra="">Named for the falcons who nested near here in the late 80's. Start immediately left around the corner from Ungar. Follow the thin fused crack (dust-off your RPs) through the series of ledges - face climb, mantle, face climb, mantle... finishing up the wide crack. Poor protection.</climb>
<climb id="90" name="Ungar" fa="John Moore, Peter Jackson, Sep 1970." stars="*" number="114." length="25m" grade="17" extra="">Tape-up. Starting just left of Plastacine Thylacine is a nice looking crack. Jam the fist to hand size crack through a series of bulges, each one a little more difficult than the last. Climb the short wall or chimney above when the crack ends on the ledge and make your way to the DBB above Virag.</climb>
<climb id="91" name="Plastacine Thylacine" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Steve Ford, May 1990. Retro-bolted in 2021 (with FA permission)." stars="**" number="115." length="25m" grade="22" extra="Mixed">Originally a bold lead with two carrot bolts and some RP placements that were unusually difficult to place on lead - now more approachable since some extra bolts have been added with permission from the FA. Start on the platform 3m L and downhill from Virag, at the base of the bulging face/arete. Climb boldly up the seam in the bulge to the first bolt, then continue up the arete using holds on the R wall (crux) to the horizontal break (0.3 Camelot). Weave up the upper face past a small wire and 3 more bolts, before exiting R to the easy wide crack which is followed into Virag.<br/><br/>Gear: a few draws, one long draw, small wires or RPs, plus a few cams between 0.3 and 2.</climb>
<climb id="92" name="Virag" fa="Michael McHugh, Peter Jackson, Jan 1971." stars="**" number="116." length="25m" grade="17" extra="">Old-school. Mick McHugh fell out on the FA and broke his leg! Thankfully, this route is very well-protected with modern gear. Climb the initial corner past the wonky spike and bridge out through the roof. Haul yourself up into the wide crack (big cam useful) and up this to reach the salvation of a face hold on the left-hand edge. Follow the hand-crack to the roof, then swing left around the corner or go direct up the wall (better) to finish at the DBB lower-off.</climb>
<climb id="93" name="Wolfetone" fa="Robert McMahon, Peter Jackson, Nov 1969." stars="**" number="117." length="25m" grade="18" extra="">Originally an aid-route, this thin layback corner still regularly spits-out aspiring leaders - fortunately the gear is bomber. Climb the right trending crack to a tricky exit and stance below the corner. Layback the difficult thin corner to a stance, then continue more easily to the top. Either finish through the chimney at the top or climb the wall to the anchor direct. Lower-off.</climb>
<climb id="96" name="Mr Whimpy" fa="Noel Ward, Peter Jackson, Jul 1984." stars="" number="118." length="12m" grade="16" extra="">From Wolfetone, move along to the second small buttress just R. Climb straight up the front of the buttress on flakes to the ledge on the R edge. Clip the fixed peg, then move back L onto the face of the summit block and up to finish.</climb>
<climb id="94" name="A Salted Battery" fa=" Evan Peacock, Grant Rowbottom, Sep 1992." stars="" number="119." length="8m" grade="25" extra="2Þ">The very steep face route on the back of Wolfetone. Start L of Baby Animals and climb up past 2 FH (stick clip the first). Good fun! No lower-off. Best to continue up the Wolftone chimney and belay at the Virag anchor.</climb>
<text id="275" class="heading3">The Gully</text>
<text id="276" class="text">The Gully uphill and to the right of Virag Buttress.</text>
<image id="361" src="Fruitless new.jpg" height="980" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Fruitless Buttress" legendx="20" legendy="17">
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<legend>
<climb>97</climb>
<climb>98</climb>
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<climb id="95" name="Baby Animals" fa="Lucas Bottomley, Richard Bottomley, Anna Hasan, Apr 1991." length="8m" grade="16" extra="" number="120." stars="">From Fruitless contour around L for about 20m to some largish boulders and a small face cleaned by rockfall. Climb the crack (small wires), with an interesting crux for short runts.</climb>
<climb id="97" name="Fruitless" fa="Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Sep 1984." stars="" number="121." length="12m" grade="18" extra="">Climb the face of the buttress for 6 m to the ledge below the small roof, move L around it, then back R to the crack and the top. A little mossy at present but still approachable.</climb>
<climb id="98" name="Bumper Crop" fa="Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Sep 1984." length="8m" grade="12" extra="" number="122." stars="">Climbs the short orange corner crack at the top of Fruitless. Good for those learning to jam.</climb>
<climb id="99" name="Old Man's Hands" fa="Stuart Scott, Adrian Herington, 1981." length="6m" grade="9" extra="" number="123." stars="">The small, dirty handcrack past a bulge about 10 m R and up the gully from Fruitless. Start on the LH side of the gully just before a huge boulder.</climb>
<climb id="100" name="Good O's From Heaven" fa="Evan Peacock, Mar 1990." length="10m" grade="25" extra="Mixed" number="124." stars="">The face immediately L and around the corner from Surprise Surprise and protected with a carrot bolt.<br/><br/>Editors Note 2021: Currently overgrown and hidden by a tree at the base of the route</climb>
<climb id="101" name="Surprise, Surprise" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Nov 1989." length="10m" grade="22" extra="Mixed" number="125." stars="">Harder than it looks. Uphill and L of Sweetie and behind that buttress is a brushed slab protected by three carrot bolts. The climb is directly opposite Old Mans Hands, across the gully. Climb easily to the first bolt, then move up R to a small scoop. After the second bolt move up to another bolt then the top. Walk-off.<br/><br/>Editors Note 2021: In need of a brush.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="167">Sweetie Buttress</text>
<text id="273" class="text">The tall buttress located just right of The Gully as you head along the track. Lower-off at top.</text>
<image id="362" src="Sweetie New.jpg" height="933" width="700" legend="true" legendTitle="Sweetie Buttress" legendx="15" legendy="11">
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<legend>
<climb>102</climb>
<climb>103</climb>
<climb>104</climb>
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</image>
<climb id="102" name="Acerb" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Nov 1989. Re-bolted in 2022." stars="**" number="126." length="20m" grade="22" extra="Mixed">A memorable route which is airy and exciting - reach over and clip the first bolt from the gully before starting. Climb the face and left arete past two bolts into a stance at the base of the sloping roof (crux). Arrange your gear (small cams useful), then launch out right on underclings and finish up Sweetie to the lower-off. Be mindful of some suspect flakes on the traverse.</climb>
<climb id="103" name="Onklunk" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, May 1990." stars="" number="127." length="20m" grade="26" extra="Mixed">If the rusty carrot bolts and the lichen don't put you off.. Start as for Acerb but go R. Clip the first carrot of the lip of the roof, then launch out R (technical) to a stance and the second carrot. Trend back L and climb up on side-pulls and a tiny foothold (crux) to jugs, to finish up Sweetie.</climb>
<climb id="104" name="Sweetie" fa="Peter Jackson, Mendelt Tillema, Mar 1971." stars="" number="128." length="20m" grade="12" extra="">Once a 3 star classic. Still considered a classic amongst horticulturists. Climb the rainforest to a ledge, hand traverse left, then finish up the crack to a lower-off.</climb>
<text id="241" class="heading3">Yoda Buttress</text>
<text id="242" class="text">The next buttress right from Sweetie in a recess. There is a lower-off above Chocolate and Brittle Little Mothers.</text>
<image id="363" src="Chocolate new.jpg" height="933" width="700" legend="true" legendTitle="Yoda Buttress">
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<legend>
<climb>247</climb>
<climb>106</climb>
<climb>108</climb>
<climb>109</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem id="105" name="Nappy Rush" fa=" Evan Peacock, May 1990." stars="" number="129." grade="V1" extra="" length="">A hard little boulder problem (top-rope recommended) (Editors note: seriously?) with a poor landing. Start on the overhanging mini-buttress just L of Yoda.</problem>
<climb id="247" stars="*" extra="" number="130." name="Strawberries" length="20m" grade="14" fa="Christoph Speer, Martin Brown, July 2021">The clean crack-line left of Yoda. Stem the chimney and jam the crack to a small ledge, then move right onto the arete and up into the fist crack. Finish by hand-traversing right just below the huge block to the lower-off above Chocolate.</climb>
<climb id="347" stars="" extra="" number="131." name="Dessert and a Movie" length="20m" grade="19" fa="Christoph Speer, Jan 2022">Climb the first part of Strawberries until you can undercling and side-pull out right using the flake. Finish up Yoda.</climb>
<climb id="106" name="Yoda" fa="Peter Jackson, Dec 1980." stars="***" length="20m" grade="19" extra="" number="132.">Brilliant, sustained climbing up the thin line in the middle of the face. Start up Chocolate and undercling the flake to gain the main line. Follow this to the top past numerous RPs, micro-cams and some more reassuring pieces. Lower-off.<br/><br/>Historical note from Al: 'In 1982, I hit the ground from 6m on Yoda after ripping two poor RP placements. Instead of blaming my lack of skill in placing solid RPs, I blamed the poor protection offered by the route. It wasn't until 1984, after direct-aiding off RPs in Yosemite that I plucked-up the courage to attempt the route again. And.. you guessed it, the pro on Yoda turned out way better than adequate..'</climb>
<climb id="107" name="Yoda Direct Start" fa="Evan Peacock, May 1990." length="20m" grade="23" extra="" number="133." stars="">A technical little start - unprotected, but not such a bad landing. Follow the slab 2m L of Chocolate until it joins the layaway above the undercling (and runners!).</climb>
<climb id="108" name="Chocolate" fa="Peter Jackson, Dec 1980." stars="**" length="20m" grade="16" extra="" number="134.">Sweet hand-jamming. The obvious hand-crack through a bulge just right of Yoda. Lower-off.</climb>
<climb id="109" name="Brittle Little Mothers" fa="Evan Peacock, Roy Langman, Al Adams, Dec 1989. Re-bolted in 2022." stars="**" length="16m" grade="21" extra="Mixed" number="135.">A hard on-sight. Up the easy face/crack for 5m to the roof and trend out left to the arete and clip the bolt above. Blast through this on the arete (crux) and continue up the face past a good RP3 to the horizontal break. Continue up through the delicate open-book corner past another good RP3, then finish up the face to the lower-off. Adequately protected despite appearances - make sure to take doubles of RP3.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="168">Albatross Buttress</text>
<text id="268" class="text">Located just to the right of the Yoda Buttress is an impressive and intimidating buttress split by a soaring crack (Albatross). There is a lower-off on top of the buttress. Further right, the track drops down towards Greenknowe past some lichenous buttresses.</text>
<image id="364" src="Albatross new.jpg" height="933" width="700" legend="true" legendTitle="Albatross Buttress" legendx="12" legendy="10">
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<legend>
<climb>110</climb>
<climb>111</climb>
<climb>422</climb>
<climb>112</climb>
<climb>405</climb>
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<climb id="110" name="Ulysses" fa="Mendelt Tilema, Peter Jackson, Mar 1971." length="25m" grade="16" extra="" number="136." stars="*">The scene of some epic cleaning efforts in 2021 to restore this fine route. Uphill in the gully to the left of Albatross is a corner crack. Follow the fist crack to a cleaned ledge, then layback and jam the corner crack above. Finish up the exciting bottomless chimney (taking care of any loose rock at the back) to a lower-off.</climb>
<climb id="111" name="Miasma" fa="Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Dave Gardner, 1982." stars="" length="25m" grade="15" extra="" number="137.">Adventurous - beware the poisonous vapours! The deep chimney just R of Ulysses.</climb>
<climb id="422" stars="**" extra="" number="138." name="Balbatross" length="30m" grade="21" fa="Fraser L-R, Christoph Speer, Anne Knox, Samson Stensletten">The line left of Albatross that looks 3 grades harder. Up the corner to a stance below the bulging roof. Arrange your gear, then commit to a strenuous layback sequence to a stance in a shallow chimney. Interesting moves through this to the finger crack. Finish by traversing right into Albatross to finish up the hand crack.</climb>
<climb id="112" name="Albatross" fa="Ian Lewis, Feb 1974. (date of FA in many older guidebooks is I Lewis May 1975 - a definitive written source is required)" stars="***" length="30m" grade="23" extra="" number="139.">Australia’s first grade 23 and a test-piece in technical jamming. The route follows the intimidating, overhanging slanting corner-line. Layback the flakes direct (dubious attachment) or traverse in from the left. Swing right around the corner, and then delicately mantle to the small ledge and smooth wall. Haul yourself up past the spike and into a stance at the base of the bottomless crack. Follow this with difficulty to the top. Lower-off.<br/><br/>It has been long assumed that the first 23 was American Henry Barber’s ascent of Insomnia at Frog Buttress in 1975. For over 40 years it was falsely reported that Lewis used a point of aid for rest on Albatross’s 1974 first ascent. In interviews for Gerry Narkowicz’s book on the history of Tasmanian climbing in 2018, Lewis and his belayer Lyle Closs, categorically state that the route was done free. Barber who was originally credited with the first free ascent of Albatross the following year, ironically fell off the route, the only climb that he was reported to have fallen off during his visit to Australia.</climb>
<climb id="405" stars="" extra="" number="140." name="Defender of the Phish" length="30m" grade="23" fa="Martin Brown, August 2022">The face and slab on the front of the buttress to the right of Albatross has been climbed on top-rope. A decision was made not to bolt this due to its proximity to Albatross. Still worthwhile having a play though if you're at the anchor. Run the rope over the front of the buttress, and climb Albatross until at the base of the crack. Step right and up from here and follow the tricky face and delicate slab/groove above, finishing through the short crack to the anchor.</climb>
<text id="367" class="heading3">Yeti Flakes, Unfinished Symphony & Fingers and Thumbs Buttresses</text>
<text id="368" class="text">The series of buttresses on the same contour and to the right of Albatross don't provide much value currently. They are all extremely lichenous and the quality ratings and grades given in the original guide aren't providing much inspiration for a mammoth cleaning effort to resurrect them...</text>
<climb id="113" name="A Ginger Cat Ate Rebecca" fa="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Grant Rowbottom, Aug 1992." length="20m" grade="16" extra="" number="141." stars="">Start about 15m up the gully R of the Albatross buttress. Climb up to the horizontal break below the roof, then launch up the face (small RP's).</climb>
<climb id="114" name="Yeti Flakes" fa="Gerry Narkowicz, Pete Steane, 1981." length="25m" grade="17" extra="" number="142." stars="">Start two sub-buttress R of Albatross on the same contour. Face climb up the thin flake on the LH side of the buttress.</climb>
<climb id="375" stars="" extra="" number="143." name="Feral Non-Immigrants" length="20m" grade="17" fa="Jeroen Jansen, Cyril Scomparin, May 2022">On the right side of the gully between Yeti Flakes and Unfinished Symphony is a crack. Scramble up the gully and jam to the top.</climb>
<climb id="115" name="Unfinished Symphony" fa="Chris Dawson, Mary McWhirther, Sep 1974." length="8m" grade="11" extra="" number="144.">Start on the front of the next buttress right of Yeti Flakes, a few metres R of a large recess. Climb up the crack to the ledge. Follow any of the variety of lines up (bounded on the R by a small square-cut pillar).</climb>
<climb id="116" name="Fingers and Thumbs" fa="Phil Robinson, Chris Rathbone, Jul 1976." stars="" number="145." length="15m" grade="13" extra="">Thoughtful footwork required to negotiate an undercling. Start at the thin crack splitting the front of the next small buttress R of Unfinished Symphony, behind a big sheoak. Climb the crack past the undercling flake, to the break. Straight up the face of the buttress to top.<br/><br/>Editors Note 2022: Originally a * route. But needs a brush to restore it.</climb>
<climb id="117" name="Team Pursuit" fa="Doug Bruce and Team, 1985." stars="" number="146." length="15m" grade="16" extra="">Short and sweet... Seems rather changed now from the original description. Start from the gully about 6m R of Fingers & Thumbs. Traverse L and diagonally up on sizeable footholds and around arête to join the thin crack line at a suspect flake, 1m R of F&T. Thinly protected. Continue up past the flake to horizontal. Follow wide crack to top. An alternative variant is to climb F & T for 3m and then traverse R for a metre to the bottom of the thin crack line Follow this to the top past the suspect flake and wide crack, as for the original route (17).<br/><br/>Editors Note 2022: Originally a * route. But needs a brush to restore it.</climb>
<climb id="118" name="Team Pursuit Direct" fa="Evan Peacock, Apr 1990." length="15m" grade="20" extra="" number="147.">The direct start.</climb>
<problem id="119" name="If This Pavement Should Stray Or Rome, Smack It In The Bum, I Love Debra" fa="Garn Cooper, 1986." stars="" number="148." grade="V1" extra="">The boulder problem up the detached pinnacle on the RH side of the gully R of Fingers and Thumbs.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="169">Greenknowe Buttress</text>
<text id="272" class="text">This buttress is located directly below Bulging Biceps Buttress and about 80m to climbers right and downhill from the Albatross Buttress. There is a lower-off for Caged and Greenknowe.</text>
<image id="381" legendTitle="Greenknowe LHS" src="greenknowe LHS.jpg" height="500" legend="true">
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<legend>
<climb/>
<climb>120</climb>
<climb>121</climb>
<climb>382</climb>
<climb>123</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="120" name="Hooning the Block" fa="Garn Cooper, David Loone, 1985." stars="" number="149." length="15m" grade="13" extra="">From Fingers and Thumbs go downhill to a prominent buttress/pillar lower than the rest. This route climbs the arête 10m L of Greenknowe. Start up the face R of the arête, then move onto the arête at the horizontal, finishing straight up. Poorly protected.</climb>
<climb id="121" name="York Street" fa="Dave Gardner, Ross Adams, 1986." length="15m" grade="15" extra="" number="150." stars="">The line just R of Hooning the Block. Finish up Hooning the Block. Poorly protected.</climb>
<climb id="382" stars="" extra="" number="151." name="Discalculia" length="15m" grade="13-17" fa="Dave James and Xinyu Zheng July 2122">The crack 10m right of the of the large leaning pillar and 18.5m left of Greenknowe. Rock seems ok, coould be an error of judgement...</climb>
<image id="292" src="greenknowe3.jpeg.jpg" height="1016" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Greenknowe Buttress">
<drawing>
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<legend>
<climb>122</climb>
<climb>123</climb>
<climb>124</climb>
<climb>125</climb>
<climb>126</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="122" name="Sheening With the Dovens" fa="Garn Cooper, Noel Ward, Sep 1984." stars="" number="152." length="25m" grade="18" extra="">The arête a few metres L of Greenknowe. Nice climbing but lichenous and poorly protected. The start was originally protected by slinging a branch on the now dead tree.</climb>
<climb id="123" name="Greenknowe" fa="Peter Jackson, Mendelt Tillemma, Nov 1969." stars="*" length="18m" grade="12" extra="" number="153.">Adventurous climbing for the grade. Climb the smooth chimney, trending right to the nose of the buttress past the first roof. Up to the second roof and around it on the left. Continue up the short wall above to the DBB lower-off.</climb>
<climb id="124" name="Queasonaire" fa="Evan Peacock, Mar 1989." stars="" length="15m" grade="18" extra="" number="154.">Climb the face 1m R of Greenknowe, with protection at 4m (and after the crux!), to join the aforementioned at its roof.</climb>
<climb id="125" name="Caged" fa="Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson, Oct 1989. Retro-bolted in 2021 with FA permission." stars="*" length="18m" grade="21" extra="Mixed" number="155.">Originally started direct through the scoop, with only a single piton for protection. Now you just need to follow the bolts through the bulge to a lower-off. A small cam in the seam to the left protects the start.</climb>
<climb id="126" name="Shirvan" fa="Peter Jackson, Noel Ward, 1984." stars="" length="10m" grade="14" extra="" number="156.">From the middle of the buttress just R of Greenknowe move up on big holds to the ledge on the RH edge. Step L for protection behind a suspect flake, then finish directly up the middle.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="192">Biceps Buttress</text>
<text class="text" id="194">The Biceps Buttress is situated directly above the Greenknowe Buttress and just to the left of the Papillon Buttress. There is a lower-off above Bulging Biceps/Triceps. Grade 4 downclimb off the back of the buttress for descent from Joyride and Juvenile Hall.</text>
<image id="196" src="Biceps Buttress.jpg" height="871" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Biceps Buttress" legendx="17" legendy="15">
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<rect id="95912" x="355" y="1228" width="136" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="To Greenknowe Buttress" arrowDirection="south_west"/>
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<legend>
<climb>127</climb>
<climb>128</climb>
<climb>383</climb>
<climb>271</climb>
<climb>129</climb>
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</image>
<climb id="127" name="Joyride" fa="Al Adams, Simon Stubbs, Paul Taylor, Nov 1987." stars="" number="157." length="12m" grade="15" extra="">Trickier than it looks. At the left hand end of Biceps Buttress a leaning gum tree sits in front of a slabby arete. Start behind tree and mount the small bulge, then continue up the face to the top. The challenge is to find the RP placements and not use the tree.</climb>
<climb id="128" name="Juvenile Hall" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, 1987." stars="*" number="158." length="12m" grade="13" extra="">The scene of more possum magic. Follow the sinuous hand-crack and finish up the easy chimney to belay on top of the buttress. Grade 4 down-climb off the back or traverse (stay roped-up) to the anchor above Bulging Biceps for descent.</climb>
<climb id="383" stars="" extra="" number="159." name="Mature Anteroom" length="12m" grade="10" fa="Dave James, Tim Whelan, June 2022">Cracks and chimney just right of Juvenile Hall. Good for the grade and doable without mature sized cams.</climb>
<climb id="271" stars="*" extra="Mixed" number="160." name="Bulging Biceps" length="16m" grade="21" fa="Al Adams, Simon Stubbs, Nov 1987 (Bulging Biceps - 18). Hamish Jackson, Gordon Broome, July 2021 (Bulging Triceps - extended start)">Load-up on creatine. Originally starting off the block in the gully, an extended start was added in 2021 and is now the way to do the route. Climb into the sentry box and escape this moving up and right past three bolts. Follow the thin crack (good RPs) above the last bolt, then continue more easily to the top and lower-off.<br/><br/></climb>
<text id="270" class="heading3">Papillon Buttress</text>
<text class="text" id="195">Papillon Buttress is at the same level and immediately right of Bulging Biceps Buttress. The flat area in front from where the topo image is taken, is Lunchspot Ledge. There is a lower-off to service Blue Turtles, Snoober and Papillon. Easy walk-off right for Canary.</text>
<image id="197" src="Papillon Buttress.jpg" height="933" legendTitle="Papillon Buttress" legend="true" width="700">
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<legend>
<climb>131</climb>
<climb>132</climb>
<climb>133</climb>
<climb>135</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="130" name="Rocket Fuel" fa="Al Adams, Pete Steane, Jul 1984." stars="" number="161." length="15m" grade="15" extra="">Above Lunchspot Ledge is a dead gum tree standing in front of the buttress. The start of Rocket Fuel is located 5m left of the dead gum at a leftward facing flake. Climb the flake to a ledge with a large block on it, then follow the multiple crack system above to the top.</climb>
<climb id="131" name="Blue Turtles" fa="Al Adams, Martin Rose, Sep 1987." stars="" number="162." length="15m" grade="16" extra="">Needs taking to with a brush!. Climb the line that starts 1.5m right of Rocket Fuel. The flake down low is loose.</climb>
<climb id="132" name="Snoober" fa="Peter Jackson, Bob deCesare, Jan 1981." stars="*" number="163." length="17m" grade="17" extra="">The naughty thin line up the face of the buttress, which continues through the bulge and up the face / cracks above. Protection is decent, but you'll need to work hard to place the small gear (RPs and micro-cams) in the thin crack. Lower-off at top.</climb>
<climb id="376" stars="" extra="" number="164." name="Stella Goes Trad Climbing" length="15m" grade="15" fa="Jeroen Jansen, Stella Lawless, May 2022">Nice climbing but contrived. Climb Papillon to the ledge, then climb the arete without using the corner.</climb>
<climb id="133" name="Papillon" fa="Peter Jackson, Bob Bull, May 1971." stars="*" number="165." length="15m" grade="11" extra="">Good for the grade. Papillon is the obvious crack just left of the dead gum. Jam to a small ledge and up the corner to belay on top, being mindful of some suspect blocks at the top of the corner. Lower off as for Snoober.</climb>
<climb id="135" name="Canary" fa="Lyle Closs, Ian Lewis, Jul 1972." stars="*" number="166." length="15m" grade="15" extra="">Hidden behind the native cherry is a nice route worthy of your time. Start 2m right of Papillon and climb up the face and into the thin finger crack. Continue following the line to a fist-width crack. Surmount this and top out next to Papillon and Snoober. Belay on top and walk-off easily to the right.</climb>
<climb id="136" name="Bird on a Wire" fa="Steve Hamilton, Hamish Jackson, Sep 1991." stars="" number="167." length="12m" grade="18" extra="">Start just right of Canary as the buttress turns uphill. Follow the system of thin cracks straight up to the previous climbs overhang.</climb>
<climb id="137" name="Sein Zum Tode" fa="Marcel Jackson (with TR inspection) and Rob Williams 1994?." stars="" number="168." length="12m" grade="20" extra="">Climbs the enticing face right of Bird on a Wire. The crux is the first moves although the upper section is a little balancy. The main piece of protection is to be found at the first horizontal.</climb>
<climb id="138" name="Fist" fa="Lyle Closs, Ian Lewis, Jul 1972." length="7m" grade="13" extra="" number="169." stars="">Obvious isn't it? Jam the fist crack in the gully around the back of the Papillon buttress. Finishes at the same spot as Canary.</climb>
<climb id="139" name="The Prave" fa="Garn Cooper, 1987." length="10m" grade="10" extra="" number="170." stars="">The line up the front of the buttress directly below Papillion Buttress that finishes on Lunchspot Ledge.</climb>
<image id="220" src="Middle aged crisis.jpg" height="525" width="700" legend="true" legendTitle="Middle Aged Crisis Area" legendFooter="Above Papillion Buttress">
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<legend>
<climb>190</climb>
<climb>140</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="190" name="Middled Aged Crisis" fa="Dave Drake, Geoff Wayatt, 1979." length="8m" grade="16" stars="" extra="" number="171.">Worth a few moments. The short crack on the small buttress immediately above Papillon Buttress. Walk-off left.</climb>
<climb id="140" name="Heidelberg Direct" fa="Peter Steane (Top Roped), Feb 1984." length="20m" grade="17" extra="" stars="" number="172.">A clean layback corner leading to an offwidth and the scene of a serious accident. Found 7m right of Middle Aged Crisis and immediately uphill of Fist. Climb the line avoiding the worst of the tragedy by traversing from the top of the shaky block around the nose and up on small holds. Continue straight up. Protection is difficult to arrange.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="172">Lumbar Cruncher & The Danger Hog Shuffle Buttresses</text>
<text id="251" class="text">Found above and to the right of the Papillion Buttress. A number of fantastic climbs on excellent quality and interesting rock. Lower-offs exist at the top of each buttress. Further past the Danger Hog Shuffle, the cliff-line starts to peter out until you come to the Wailing Wall.</text>
<image id="253" src="Lumbar 2 Rudge.jpg" height="600" width="800" legendTitle="Lumbar Cruncher Area" legend="true">
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<climb>141</climb>
<climb>263</climb>
<climb>142</climb>
<climb>264</climb>
<climb>143</climb>
<climb>173</climb>
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<climb id="141" name="Expiry" fa="Asahel Bush, Phil Robinson, Jun 1975." length="20m" grade="18" extra="" stars="" number="173.">Start about 20m right of Heidelberg Direct on the left hand side of the second of the two prominent recesses, and opposite Rudge. Climb up the crack for 4m, then traverse left around the awkward bulge and up to the ledge. Surmount the offwidth - the chockstone here in the photo is reportedly now missing and makes this section the crux - then climb the large curving flake at the top - careful of rockfall.</climb>
<climb id="263" stars="*" extra="Mixed" number="174." name="Lithium low down" length="25m" grade="18" fa="Gordon Broome, Hamish Jackson July 2021">Starts 1m left of Expiry, and crosses this climb at half height. Climb the intermittent cracks on the front of the buttres until the ledge at the start of the off-width on Expiry. Clip bolt high and right, climb face (tricky), or off width for 2m to horizontal break, then make exciting traverse right to arete (crux). Follows cracks on arete to top.</climb>
<climb id="142" name="Lumbar Cruncher" fa="Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson, Mar 1990." stars="**" number="175." length="23m" grade="23" extra="Mixed">Tackles the steep left wall of the recess. Features unusually steep climbing for dolerite, and remarkable rock quality. Climb the orange wall (crux), then continue up the thin crack to the overhang. Move L, pull through onto the arête on the jugs. Don't escape L, but traverse back R to finish up the overhanging crack and exit jugs on prow. Note that two small knife blades were used to protect the crux (placed on abseil) on FA, bolts were added 2021. A steep, technical and varied route.<br/>The natural gear is bomber and placed easily from good stances (a few cams from 0.2 to 0.75, plus a 2 camalot for the final crack).</climb>
<climb id="264" stars="**" extra="Mixed" number="176." name="Lumbar Cruncher Direct" length="23m" grade="24" fa="H Jackson and Gordy Broome 2021">Only 4m of independent climbing, but this is the crux. Improves the original as it continues up the steep line and is not escapable. Up LC to the overhang at half height. Instead of moving left to the arete, pull up past bolt and slightly R (crux) to upper sentry box, then as per original up the overhanging crack and prow above.</climb>
<climb id="143" name="Rudge" fa="Lyle Closs, Ian Lewis, Oct 1973 (Original). Jeroen Jansen, Stella Lawless, May 2022 (RH Variant) " length="20m" grade="16" extra="" stars="*" number="177.">Some rather interesting moves for the grade, take a big cam or two. Get upside down and climb onto the jammed block from the left to get yourself established in the wide crack. Follow this to the top and lower-off. A nice variant at grade 18 starts by entering the line from the RHS.</climb>
<image id="359" src="danger hog new.jpg" height="745" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="The Danger Hog Shuffle Buttress" legendx="2" legendy="2">
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<climb>173</climb>
<climb>176</climb>
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<climb id="173" name="The Danger Hog Shuffle" fa="Martin Walch, Garn Cooper, Jun 1986. Re-bolted in 2022." stars="**" length="20m" grade="18" extra="Mixed" number="178.">Not one you'll forget in a hurry. Bridge the shallow corner past some wires then clip the bolt. Move up and left around the arete to reach the crack-line (crux). Compose yourself and continue to the top more easily past good pro to the lower-off. Pull the rope from next to Rudge to avoid a rope jam.</climb>
<climb id="176" name="Wee Ratty" fa="Otmar Buchman, 1981." stars="" length="6m" grade="14" number="179." extra="">A good route given it's height. The crack/layaway on the small buttress just right of the Danger Hog Shuffle. Grade 4 down-climb to the right to get off.</climb>
<climb id="177" name="Quine" fa="Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson, Oct 1989." length="18m" grade="18" stars="" extra="" number="180.">A few metres right and uphill from Wee Ratty is a small flat buttress. Climb up easily to the base of the thin crack on the left arête. Follow this up, finishing to the right of the main face.</climb>
<climb id="178" name="Exactuary" fa="Garn Cooper, Noel Ward, 1986." length="10m" grade="14" number="181.">Exact details unknown but known to be somewhere in the vicinity of Big Electric Cat.</climb>
<climb id="179" name="Big Electric Cat" fa="Garn Cooper, 1986." length="10m" number="182." stars="" extra="" grade="12">The bridging problem to the L of Gilmigrim.</climb>
<climb id="180" name="Gilmigrim" fa="Garn Cooper, Noel Ward, Aug 1984." length="10m" grade="13" number="183.">Beware of loose blocks. About 50m R of Wee Ratty is a higher and more prominent buttress with a square roof at its top. From the front of the buttress climb the wide crack to the ledge. Continue up the face to the small ledge then either pull through the roof or step back R and up.</climb>
<climb id="188" name="Triangle Smile" fa="Ray Lassman" length="6m" grade="14" number="184.">Climb the crack through the bulge at the top of No Hi Jinx buttress.</climb>
<climb id="189" name="Small Acoustic Dog" fa="Colin Reed, Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Nov 1990." length="8m" grade="21" extra="" number="185." stars="">Located on the small buttress just L of No Hi Jinx. Climb straight through the roof on RP's and cams.</climb>
<text id="298" class="heading3">Spook Fright</text>
<text id="338" class="text">Located about 40 m above the Wailing Wall.</text>
<image id="306" src="Spook fright.jpg" height="667" width="500" legend="true" legendx="4" legendy="17">
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<legend>
<climb>299</climb>
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<climb id="299" stars="" extra="" number="186." name="Spook Fright" length="5m" grade="13" fa="Chris Lang, Jamie Spencer, Aug 2021">A fun filled 5 meters all by itself. Stonker gear and a few good moves makes it a good warm up before wailing wall, which is a further 40m down the hill.</climb>
<text id="384" class="heading3">Confusalation Buttress</text>
<text id="385" class="text">Somewhere lost between Greenknowe Buttress and Wailing Wall. Doesn't appear to be described?<br/>At that lower contour anyways.<br/>A few other cracks doable here but shorter and less appealing to modern tastes.</text>
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<legend>
<climb>386</climb>
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<climb id="386" stars="" extra="" number="187." name=" Fog" length="8" grade="13" fa="Probably climbed last century or else... Dave James and Tim Whelan. June 2022">Corner and crack on tallest and proudest part of the buttress, that is, if a topo photo isn't enough...<br/>Worthwhile.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="187">Wailing Wall</text>
<text id="280" class="text">The last of the major buttresses on the RHS of the cliff. To get there from the base follow the faint ridge-line from the top of the fields up and R of the car park - this makes for a somewhat easier walk than than the central uphill track line. To traverse there from the south, take a slightly downward trajectory across from lunch stop ledge for 5 mins (300m) - the wall faces north so is not visible until you have crossed the ridgeline.</text>
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<legend>
<climb>181</climb>
<climb>291</climb>
<climb>182</climb>
<climb>183</climb>
<climb>378</climb>
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<climb id="181" name="No Hi Jinx" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Aug 1984." stars="*" length="12m" grade="17" extra="" number="188.">Start 3m L of Ashlars' Edge in the corner 2m left of the arate. From the base of the corner climb up and R to a small ledge then gain the arête and continue up it on the left side. Slightly loose. Small gear necessary.</climb>
<climb id="291" stars="**" extra="Mixed" number="189." name="Ashlars' edge" length="15m" grade="22" fa="H Jackson and M Brown Aug 2021">Start 5m left of Wailing wall at the short orange corner 2m right of the arete. Climb short short corner (small cam optional), step left onto nose (crux) and continue up wall just R of arete to the small ledge 4m before the top (small cam required here <0.3 camelot). Now climb diagonally right up face to DBB above the wailing wall.</climb>
<climb id="182" name="Wailing Wall" fa="Marcel Jackson, Hamish Jackson, Jan 1992. Alt start H Jackson 2021" stars="***" length="12m" grade="26" extra="Mixed" number="190.">Superb and sustained face climbing. Climbs the distinctive blank orange wall past 4BR's (some recently replaced 2021) and a #2 camelot to protect final 4m to DBB lower-off.<br/><br/>Alt start (18m 26): Start for Ashler's edge, up to first BR, then more right up obvious diagonal to reach first BR of WW (run out, or small cam at feet). Adds 6m of gr 22 climbing.</climb>
<climb id="183" name="Argonautica" fa="Chris Dawson, Mary McWhirther, Oct 1974." length="15m" grade="16" number="191.">Start just to the R of Wailing Wall and climb the obvious crack/chimney.</climb>
<climb id="378" stars="" extra="" number="192." name="Whimper" length="15" grade="16" fa="probably someone last century but otherwise Dave James and Tim Whelan June 2022">The wider crack about 2 m right of Argonautica. Not really offwidthing. No.5 handy but not essential.</climb>
<climb id="184" name="Velveteen" fa="Rob Williams, Marcel Jackson, 1994." length="7m" grade="6" number="193.">Climbs the short arête and wall of perfect dolerite about 4m R of Argonautica. A knife blade was placed in the horizontal on the FA.</climb>
<text id="308" class="heading3">Radical Centrist Buttress</text>
<text id="309" class="text">This block has a lovely clean orange front face and is found 80m right and 30m up hill from the Wailing wall. Head north from the wailing wall crossing a minor gully at 50m, and a minor ridgeline at 80m. The buttress lies 30m up the hill.</text>
<image id="310" src="Radical Centrist.jpg" height="1080" legend="true" legendTitle="Radical Centrist Buttress">
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<climb>311</climb>
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<climb id="311" stars="*" extra="Mixed" number="194." name="Radical Centrist" length="12m" grade="24" fa="H Jackson and G Broome Aug 2021">Start at the bottom right and move up the orange wall and small overlap with difficulty (crux - requires an usual number of moves left and right to facilitate progress to finally gain the upper left quadrant before the rooflet). Up seam above rooflet, then crack to top. DBB</climb>
<climb id="312" stars="*" extra="Mixed" number="195." name="Authoritarian ultranationalism " length="10m" grade="20" fa="G Broome and H Jackson Aug 2021">A great companion route to RC. Climb steep face right of arete past 2 FH and funky moves, then gain finger crack, onto ledge, then hand crack to finish.</climb>
<text id="300" class="heading3">Topless Buttress</text>
<text id="339" class="text">Located downhill and across the gully from Wailing Wall.</text>
<image id="305" width="700" height="933" legend="true" src="Topless rock(1).jpg" legendTitle="Topless Buttress">
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</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>302</climb>
<climb>303</climb>
<climb>301</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="302" stars="" extra="" number="196." name="Puffin" length="15m" grade="14" fa="Jamie Spencer, Chris Lang, Aug 2021">Climb 'Topless on 24s' to the horizontal break, go left and up the left-most groove. Bonus points if you sling the dead branches emerging from the crack.</climb>
<climb id="303" stars="" extra="" number="197." name="Winter dog" length="15m" grade="14" fa="Chris Lang, Jamie Spencer, Aug 2021">Climb 'Topless on 24s' to the horizontal break, go left and up the middle groove.</climb>
<climb id="301" stars="*" extra="" number="198." name="Topless on twenty-fours" length="15m" grade="14" fa="Chris Lang, Jamie Spencer, Aug 2021">The obvious clean fist-sized crack line, made for learning to jam. Two micro cams are nice, stonker gear to the top.</climb>
</guide>
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