Page History

<guide pagesize="1000" version="3">
  <header access="North End &lt;br/&gt;Cradle Mountain is about 1.5 hours (85 km) from Devonport. Take the B19 to Spreyton then the B14 through Barrington to Sheffield and then  follow the C136 to Cethana continuing on till the C132 junction at Moina. Follow the C132 south for 19 km to the signposted turnoff to the park. From Launceston it is a 2.5 hour drive (181 km). Take the Bass Highway (A1) toward Devonport, then follow the signposted route via the B13 and C156 through to Sheffield and on to the C132. There is a shuttle bus for access from the Park entrance to Dove Lake and Waldheim. &lt;br/&gt;Camping is not permitted in the day use area around Dove Lake and Cradle Mountain itself but there is a public campsite close to Pencil Pine Lodge.The only accommodation available within the Park is at the Waldheim Chalets (book through the Cradle Mountain Visitor Centre) or at the various huts dotted along the Overland Track. These are generally full in season and a tent should be carried. &lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;South End &lt;br/&gt;Lake St Clair is about 2.5 hours (180 km) north-west of Hobart. Take the A10 (Lyell Highway) to New Norfolk and on to Derwent Bridge. Turn off here and travel the last 5km to the national park entrance. From Launceston it also about 2.5 hours (180km) to the park. Take Route 1 direction Devonport turning off to the A5 at Deloraine. Take the partly unsealed A5 over the Central Plateau to the Great Lake and Liawenee. 10km after Liawenee take the unsealed B11 past Bronte Park until you reach the A10. Turn west and drive a further 26km to Derwent Bridge and the turnoff to the park. &lt;br/&gt;At Cynthia Bay there is a back-packer/ travellers hostel and camping sites. Bookings are essential in the summer season (03 6289 1137). &lt;br/&gt;There is no direct road link between the two ends of the park. Tassielink (62717320 or 1300300520) runs bus services to/from both ends all year round and a ferry runs between Cynthia Bay at the southern end of the Lake and Narcissus Hut at the other end (03 62891137). &lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;For further information: &lt;br/&gt;* TASMAP 1:25,000 map &lt;br/&gt;* Cradle Mountain Day Walk Map &amp; Notes 2000 &lt;br/&gt;* Lake St Clair Day Walk Map &amp; Notes 1997 &lt;br/&gt;* 1:100 000 Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair Map &amp; Notes 2001 &lt;br/&gt;* &quot;Cradle Mountain Lake St Clair &amp; Walls of Jerusalem National Parks&quot; by John Chapman is the best bushwalking guidebook &lt;br/&gt;* Cradle Mountain Visitor Centre - Ph: 03 6492 1110  &lt;br/&gt;* Lake St Clair Visitor Centre - Ph: 03 6289 1172 &lt;br/&gt;* http://www.parks.tas.gov.au/" acknowledgement="The Mt Geryon section is by Matt Perchard, originally published in Craglets. Some route descriptions from original CCT circulars, Chris Baxters 1984 Geryon Guide, Rock New Climbs 1997 by Rod Young, and Climb Northern Tasmania by Bob MacMahon and Gerry Narkowicz. The Cradle Mountain section and other material is from Tony McKenny, Ross Taylor, John Chapman, Nic Deka, Bob Hamilton and Steve Brown." history="Gustav Weindorfer, the founder of Waldheim and the main driving force behind the declaration of the area as a National Park, first climbed Cradle with his wife Kathleen in 1910, some 82 years after the probable first ascent by Joseph Fossey. Over the next few years Weindorfer climbed all over the mountain, making the first winter ascent in 1924 with Charles Monds and Fred Smithies from Launceston. Fred founded the Northern Tasmanian Alpine Club and in the 1920s and 30s they ascended many of the gullies and faces, and specialised in daring jumps from pinnacle to pinnacle. The first recorded traverse of the full skyline, from Little Horn to the Summit, was made in 1914 by  visiting Austrian mountain guides Franz Malcher and his brother Julius, an ascent that must rank as probably the first recorded rock climb in Tasmania and possibly in the country. &lt;br/&gt;Years later, Ossie Ellis, an ex-saw miller turned mountaineer and conservationist, co-built Pencil Pine Lodge (now Cradle Mountain Lodge) and kept open house in the 1970s and early 80s for another generation of young climbers, mainly drawn from the north west coast. Bevis (Fred) Dutton and Steve Brown along with John Richardson, Robert (Bird) Hamilton, Nick Williams, (the chef at the Lodge), Tony McKenny, Nic Deka and Neale Smith made the hill their own, adding a number of exploratory rock climbs and hacking up and down the gullies and buttresses in winter. The area has also been a playground for cross-country skiers, with the most noticeable ski descents to date being those of Kim Robinson and Ian Wilson in 2003 who skied down the precipitous eastern (Rodway) face of the mountain. Bird Hamilton has the record for the fastest descent, however, when he fell down the gully behind Little Horn, travelling 200+m on snow and exiting with a bent crampon as the only damage. &quot;The fall is etched in the memory! Very clear recollections of long periods of sailing through the air interspersed with thuds into the snow during the later part of the excursion! Only injury other than being a bit winded was I split the skin on the point of one hip, no big deal, I was expecting more...&quot; &lt;br/&gt;Mind you, it is not beyond the realms of possibility that the first ascent of most climbing routes in the Park may well have been made previously by Galaxias brevipinnis, the extraordinary Climbing Galaxias, a fish found in tarns in the area with large fins and capable of climbing damp rocks... &lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;" intro="The Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park forms part of the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area and is traversed by the world-famous overland track, a multi-day bushwalk about 80km long. At the north end, the jagged contours of Cradle Mountain dominate the skyline, while to the south is the deepest lake in Australia, Lake St Clair, carved out by ice during several glaciations over the last two million years. &lt;br/&gt;The weather in this area is at its most stable during late summer and autumn. The Park receives a lot of rain annually, and sleet, snow and driving winds can occur at any time of the year. Check the weather forecasts at the Visitor Centres or by contacting the Bureau of Meteorology  prior to departing (www.bom.gov.au). &lt;br/&gt;If you want to walk right through the Park, bookings are required (1 November to 30 April) and during that period walkers are required to walk the track from North to South. However, if you access the track at other points or are only travelling part way along it, no bookings are required but Park fees do still apply. For further information see: www.overlandtrack.com.au &lt;br/&gt;Climbing in the Park can only be described as undeveloped. If you want a wilderness climbing experience there are many cliffs of all sizes still to be explored. However,climbers are asked to respect the wilderness ethic and to stick to the principles of minimal impact bushwalking and climbing (no bolting for example). The WHA is also a fuel-stove only area." name="Cradle Mountain - Lake St Clair" rock="Alpine dolerite, up to 400m high" sun="Mixed sun and shade" walk="Half a day to several days bushwalking" id="1" camping="" autonumber="true"/>
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  <text class="heading2" id="3">Cradle Mountain Area</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="4">Intro: The steep and jagged profile of Cradle Mountain is one of the iconic images of Tasmania and the most popular (and publicised) destination for visitors interstate and from around the world. Ice has ground and gouged out deep valleys and left soaring dolerite spires and knife-edge arêtes. This is the domain of the mountaineer rather than the rock climber as on closer inspection the columnar dolerite proves to be rather broken and the lower quartzite cliffs are often difficult to reach in thick, steep scrub. The weather can be continuously lousy too but in a good winter the world transforms and, in the right conditions, it can all get quite exciting.</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="5">Access: The start of most walking tracks is either at the Ronny Creek Car Park in Cradle Valley, about five km south from the Park's information Centre or a kilometre further on down the road at the Dove Lake Car Park. It is probably best to use the shuttle bus as there may not be any available parking space actually in the Park but check the time of the last bus if you are planning a long day. Climbs are described from L to R, clockwise, round the Lake.</text>
  <text class="heading3" id="6">Pencil Pine Buttress</text>
  <gps id="149">
    <point pid="4" latitude="-41.60131" longitude="145.93163" easting="410969" northing="5393937" zone="55G" code="CRA100" description="Pencil Pine Buttress parking"/>
    <point pid="5" description="Pencil Pine Buttress" latitude="-41.60049" longitude="145.93397" easting="411163" northing="5394030" zone="55G" code="CRA110"/>
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  <text class="text" id="7">This small quartzite crag is actually located just inside the Park boundary, before you reach Cradle Valley. Drive a couple of hundred metres towards the mountain from the Visitor's Centre and park just before Stony Creek (signposted - GPS CRA100). An old track leads off left through button grass towards the crag. The path enters a scrag of forest and just past the first low lichenous wall is a corner. The crag was first climbed on by a legendary NW climber, Ossie Ellis. Ossie was a co-founder of what is now called Cradle Mountain Lodge. A saw miller by trade, he was a keen conservationist in later life and a late but dedicated convert to rock climbing and mountaineering. There are two climbs to date but there is at least one line still crying out to be done. Descend by abseil (tape) or by walking back off to the south.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="11" length="30m" name="Ossie&apos;s Climb" number="1." stars="" id="8" fa="Ossie Ellis, early 1970s.">Climbs the dirty corner, curving R at the top.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="9">Continue on round the base of the cliff and take the RH branch past steeper, clean walls, with a jutting arête, to a wide bay split by a chimney high on the R (GPS CRA110).</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="40m" name="Footless Currawong" number="2." stars="" id="10" fa="Tony McKenny and Steve Brown, 1978. FFA Nic Deka and Neale Smith, 1979">Up short, dirty wall on the L, and walk R along the ledge to the corner. Climb the corner into the chimney, and continue up until forced out to crack above. Follow to top.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="11">Hansons Peak</text>
  <image noPrint="false" src="hansons peak.jpg" width="500" id="12" height="417"/>
  <text class="text" id="13">Located on the east side of Dove Lake, Hansons Peak has an impressive sweep of slabs reaching nearly to the summit. On closer inspection, however, the quartzite rock proves to be rather broken but still offers some interesting slab climbing with great views over the lake to Cradle Mountain. From the Dove Lake carpark, take the Lakeside Track eastwards for about a kilometre until just opposite, or a little past, Marions Lookout. Cut up to the toe of the slab through the rain forest… descend by the Hansons Peak track.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="10" length="150m+" name="Blandfordia" number="3." stars="" id="14" fa="John Richardson and Tony McKenny, 1977.">Takes a meandering line up the most continuous section of rock, finishing just below the summit.</climb>
  <text id="137" class="heading3">Little Horn</text>
  <text id="140" class="text">The north face of Little Horn offers some scope for relatively easily accessible short climbs. Peter and Roger Booth wandered over the area in the early 80s but there is only one recorded line to date.</text>
  <climb id="139" stars="" extra="" number="4." name="Messiahs Handle" length="" grade="15" fa="B. Cassimatis, P. Davies April 1985, although possibly climbed earlier.">&lt;br/&gt;Takes a line through the overhang on the L of the face, to the R of Smithies Pinnacle and the walking route. &lt;br/&gt;1). 8 Climb up the vegetated groove to belay about 8m below the overhang.&lt;br/&gt;2). 15/16 A tricky traverse R leads into a hidden chimney. Finish with 40m scramble to the summit. &lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <image id="146" src="Little Horn Messiahs Handle.jpg" height="990" legend="true" legendTitle="Little Horn" legendx="8" legendy="12"/>
  <image id="147" src="Little Horn from south.jpg" height="900" legend="true" legendTitle="Little Horn From the South" legendx="6" legendy="8"/>
  <text id="154" class="text">On the Rodway Face, looking towards the west (marked by black line on photo above) , the main gully system above the talus slope was climbed by Cassimatis and Davies in March ‘84 in 3 pitches, the first about Grade 8, the second a bit harder with a Grade 12 move near the top, finishing up an easy (Grade 5-ish ) gully.&lt;br/&gt;</text>
  <text id="143" class="text">Worth a note is Smithies Pinnacle, a prominent finger of rock beside the main walking track on the NE ridge of Little Horn. First soloed in the 1930s in nailed boots by the intrepid Fred Smithies, standing unroped on the top is not for the faint hearted...&lt;br/&gt;</text>
  <image id="144" src="FS on pillar.jpg" height="982"/>
  <image id="145" src="cradle mountain 069.JPG" height="750"/>
  <text class="heading3" id="15">Cradle Mountain</text>
  <image noPrint="false" src="cradle.jpg" width="" id="16" height="550"/>
  <text class="text" id="17">Originally called Ribbed Mountain, with its serrated skyline of gendarmes and gullies, Cradle Mountain's profile has attracted mountaineers and rock climbers since the first ascent of the mountain back in 1828. This was the scene of what is probably the first recorded rock climb in Australia, when two visiting Austrian Mountain Guides traversed the complete mountain cirque in 1914, starting with Mt. Campbell and Hansons Peak, and making the first recorded ascents of Little Horn and Weindorfer's Tower and most of the main ridge. It must have been a massive day, carrying their hemp ropes, long alpenstocks and climbing in nailed boots.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="3+" length="1.5km" name="Skyline Traverse" number="5." stars="" id="18" fa="Franz and Julius Malcher, 1914.">One of the best mountaineering routes in Tasmania. The main ridge is long, very exposed to the weather and takes a full day in good conditions. The quickest access is from the car park via the east (L) track round Dove Lake to the Lake Wilks Track which climbs steeply up to join the Face Track. Follow that back east for a couple of hundred metres or so till a definite pad takes off uphill, about one and a half hours walk to the east end of Little Horn. Climb up to the summit of Little Horn, passing the photogenic Smithies Pinnacle, and then follow the main ridge west all the way to the Cradle Mountain summit. The way down from Little Horn to the col can be scrambled although some will abseil it (there was a serious abseil accident here back in the late '70s).The other abseil is down into the top of Dorfers Gully from Weindorfer's Tower (23m). At times there are small pads to follow but there are many pillars to climb and descend if you want: the choice of routes is yours, depending on how long you want to take or how hard you want to make it. Descend down the main tourist track.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="19">On the east end of Weindorfer's Tower, to the R of the main col separating the Tower from Little Horn, is an impressive and reasonably obvious corner, with a very clear white splodge of lichen on the rock, high up. Access the corner from the Face Track which can be joined either via Hansons Peak track or more directly via the Lakeside Track/Lake Wilks Track.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="70m" name="Airborne Skink" number="6." stars="" id="20" fa="Nic Deka and Steve Brown, 1978">On the east end of Weindorfer's Tower, to the right of the main col separating the Tower from Little Horn, is an impressive and reasonably obvious corner, with a very clear white splodge of lichen on the rock, high up. Start directly below the splodge. 1. Scramble up to the bottom of the right facing groove. 2. Bridge and layback the groove, past a small roof. 3. Scramble off and to the left to join the main ridge. Descend back down the ridge to the col.&lt;br/&gt;N.B. There has been a massive rock fall in this area (2015) and the climb is virtually certainly affected, if not gone!</climb>
  <text class="text" id="21">The early pioneers climbing in the 1920s and 30s clambered all over the main ribs and gullies. One more continuous line was put up on the main face of Weindorfer's Tower in the 1970s but many others have been unrecorded.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="300m" name="Midnight Cowboy" number="7." stars="" id="22" fa="Climbers Union of Northern Tasmania 1977.">Starting at the toe of the buttress, the line wends it's way up to finish on the summit.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="23">Fury Gully Face</text>
  <text class="text" id="24">Some of the most continuous rock is found on the Fury Gully Face, on the western flanks of the mountain, above the Fury Gorge. From Kitchen Hut, (about 2 hours from Ronney Creek car park), continue south along the Overland Track for a bit over a kilometre to the small creek at the head of the Fury Gorge (to your R). Scrub bash up from here (L) to the base of the cliff and find a pillar that protrudes at its top to form a prow.Only two routes have been recorded here to date, but there is obviously room for more. Descend down Fury Gully to the south or by the main tourist track.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="230m" name="Insha Allah" number="8." stars="" id="25" fa="Neale Smith and Bob McMahon (alt.), 14 Nov 1982.">1. 50m. Quite pleasent corners lead to a spectacular perch under the roofs of the prow. Jam through the roof (crux) and then traverse R to a belay stance. 2. 50m. Nice rambling pitch with interesting sections. 3. 30m. Run the rope out on rock of similar quality. 4. 100m. Solo to the summit or break it up into a series of short pitches (up to Grade 16).</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="250m" name="Edge of Chaos" number="9." stars="" id="26" fa="Bob McMahon and Neale Smith  (alt.), 14 Nov 1982.">L of Insha Allah, up to the big corner to the R of the Pillar, then from the top of the Pillar up the face to a smal roof. 1. 40m 16. Fairly easy with some grade 16 sections. 2. 25m 17. The steepness begins with a rather awkward corner with shards of rock in the back. The rock quality improves with some nice jamming to a stance below the top of the Pillar. 3. 45m 19. The crux pitch is sustained, steep face climbing above the Pillar on shaky holds and an occasional poor jam. Protection is reasonable with a crucial #1 Friend palcement in a pocket. The climbing eases off uo tp the little roof which is turned on the L easily to a small ledge. Frightening face climbing follows on very loose flakes and holds. 4. 50m. Two beautiful corners, one above the other, lead to easy ground. 5. 100m 16. Solo to the summit or break it up into a series of short pitches.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="27">Marions Lookout</text>
  <text class="text" id="28">From the Dove Lake Carpark, follow the Lakeside track along the western shore, past the boat shed and turn R up the Marions Lookout track. There are several small quartzite buttresses below the summit but only one recorded climb to date.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="40m" name="Plastic Rain Coat" number="10." stars="" id="29" fa="Steve Brown and Bevis (Fred) Dutton 1976.">So named after the artifact found at the start! Plastic Raincoat takes the longest line on the large quartzite cliff below and to the north of Marion’s Lookout. Walk in from the Marion’s Lookout track, cutting left where the track steepens, and contouring round through the scrub to the base of the crag. The climb starts right at the lowest point and takes a line straight up, finishing just to the right of the top. One pitch and the crux was near the top mainly due to loose rock and dubious protection, certainly not the difficulty of the moves.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="30">Below Marions, on the north side, are some obvious slabs, again of quartzite. These were christened by the late John Woods as the "Saruman Slabs" after the character in Lord of the Rings. At various times, the Climbers Union of Northern Tas members free climbed over the whole area without recording any particular routes. From the Dove Lake carpark, follow the Lakeside track on the west side but turn off to Lake Lilla after 300m.Continue past the lake and then climb up to Wombat Pool. The track above the Pool joins the main Overland Track at the col: scrub bash L (east) across to the slabs. Descent by traversing back west to the main track.</text>
  <text id="155" class="heading3">Crater Lake</text>
  <text id="156" class="text">Viewed from the old boat shed at the lake’s edge, there is a very prominent buttress directly opposite, a pillar of ancient white quartzite. A fine mountaineering route of classic proportions, first climbed close on 50 years ago.</text>
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      <climb>157</climb>
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  <climb id="157" stars="" extra="" number="11." name="Ordovician" length="200m approx" grade="10?" fa="Bevis (Fred) Dutton, Steve Brown, 1970">Access the base by descending the gully to the right (north), from the Overland Track.&lt;br/&gt;“The hard part was getting to the base of the cliff and getting started. We took the right side to avoid the overhangs and from half height it laid back a bit, made for easier climbing but the exposure was something else, I still remember it. It probably took us around half a day to get up. We wore walking boots and used a layered rope called Silver (still used by sailors as it floats) and steel crabs and pitons.” - Bevis Dutton&lt;br/&gt;The angle eases to a scramble at the top: “higher up the quartzite was flaky due to frost shattering and this certainly added to the sense of exposure as protection was iffy.” - Steve Brown&lt;br/&gt;Descend via the Marion Lookout Track.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="31">Winter Climbing</text>
  <text class="text" id="32">In a good winter i.e. one where there is snow and freezing conditions, an increasing rarity today, the mountain can offer exciting winter climbing. Since the first winter ascent in 1924, most of the gullies and ridges have been climbed and the main gullies skied down. Snow holes in the massive drifts that can form on the flanks above Kitchen Hut and below Smithies Peak have been the traditional base for climbing, and the most popular gully is Dorfers, leading up to Weindorfer's Tower when conditions are good. The Skyline Traverse can be a major undertaking, taking a full day.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="" length="" name="Terror Australis" number="12." stars="" id="33" fa="Nic Deka and Nick Williams, Aug 1978.">The route takes a line up the southwest corner of the mountain, up Fury Gully. The route is easily seen when snow covers the mountain as this distinguishes the series of steep gullies/ramps that lead from the start of the route to the summit. A great route, 7 pitches, approx. NZ grade 4 Prior ice experience is recommended. This route is a popular scramble in summer and in winter can become a quality “mountaineering” day in Tassie. The best way to access the route is to follow the overland track to Kitchen Hut then continue around towards the creek crossing at Fury Gorge. You can either head straight up from the creek or in times when the snow is deep you can traverse across to the base of the route from the high part of the track half way between Kitchen hut and Fury Gorge. The route is quite obvious from the gorge and is a gradually left trending gully which has a 5m rock step at its base. During winter this usually has enough snow/ice on it to place a screw for protection prior to gaining the gully proper where occasional snow stake placements will be sufficient for the1st pitch. The 2nd pitch heads into the narrowing of the gully and steepens up enough to possibly require some more regular protection. Pitch 3 will go close to reaching the top of the initial gully and again has a number of steeper bulges of ice to negotiate. The 4th pitch continues up to an obvious shoulder before veering to the right. From here one more pitch will bring you to and obvious chimney/gully which becomes close to vertical. During very heavy snow seasons this chimney pitch can be climbed and requires two axes and some front pointing skill. When there is less snow the bulging slabs on the left provide an alternative and are likely to have good water ice thick enough for ice screws with this route rejoining the top of the chimney at 60m. One more easy pitch takes you up and left onto an open snow slope which can be easily climbed up to the summit. If you have picked the correct line you will be within a few metres of the summit cairn. Descend via the normal route, after a cold snap you may wish to keep your crampons on and an axe handy as there are a number of steep sections where a fall would be unpleasant. Take a couple of snow stakes 4 or 5 screws, a couple of medium size cams and a set of large wires plus 5 or 6 quickdraws and slings. Description by Ian Ferrier, July 2011.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="36">Barn Bluff</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="37">Intro: Barn Bluff (1559m), Tasmania's fourth highest mountain, dominates the views to the west with its bold, square-shaped profile.</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="38">Access: Located about 5km south of Cradle Mountain, it is a long days walk from Dove Lake and access is usually as a day walk from Waterfall Valley Hut. Alternatively, camp or bivi close to the climbing but you may need to take water. Continue past Benson Peak at the south end of the Cradle Mountain ridge along the Cradle Cirque and then follow the track along Bluff Cirque for about 1.5km. There has been at least one route done on Barn Bluff. Descend via the normal walking route.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="45m" name="Barnstorming" number="13." stars="" id="39" fa="Dayle Gilliatt, Phil Dolan 6 Feb 1989.">Climb scree on track, then traverse to top of greenery at base of cliff. Double ropes useful. Climb prominent R crack in middle of face (belay on L - slightly protected by overhanging block) until a few m below overhand. Traverse L to next crack. Up this to near overhang, then traverse R at angling ribs on R (Don't touch loose blocks!) Up to top of block, then crack. Top is well below by main summit which can be reached by 'interesting' traverse along ridge.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="40">Mt Oakleigh</text>
  <text id="41"/>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="42">Intro: Mt Oakleigh (1286m) is a particulalry prominent peak due to the pinnacled ridge leading to the summit which are visible from much of the northern end of the Overland Track. The big ridge of Oakleigh is reputably a classic alpine jaunt and you can make it easier or harder by avoiding some of the gendarmes. Allow a full day from New Pelion hut.</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="43">Access: The quickest access to Mt Oakleigh is via the Arm River Track or from Lees Paddocks rather than following the Overland Track. Pelion Hut is a good base. One way is to follow the Arm River Track north from the hut for 400m and cross over the Douglas Creek. Head across the wet button grass plain and contour round under the cliffs in the forest to the toe of the ridge. Alternatively, follow the old Wolfram Mines Track north from the Old Pelion Hut for about a kilometre, and then cut up to the ridge line. Descend via the main walking track back east then south.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="" length="350m" name="Oakleigh Pinnacle Ridge" number="14." stars="" id="44" fa="Mike Douglas, Chris Viney, Feb 1977 (with bivy). Reg Williams and John Moore ascended part of the ridge previously. ">This description is based on "An Ascent of Oakleigh Pinnacle Ridge" by Mike Douglas, CCT Circular 1977. 1. Initial steep 150m buttress done in 8 pitches, a little to the north of the direct line. 2. A short abseil leads to the base of the second obstacle, a 50m pinnacle much the same size as the Buttress Pinnacle on he Organ Pipes. A line of easy cracks and chimneys on the north side lead to an airy summit. The only difficulty was the final move past a very awkward bulging chockstone. 3. Two abseils and a long traverse beneath two minor pinnacles put you on top of the massive tower which is the most prominent feature of the upper section of the ridge. There is an easy route on the back of the tower. 4. Thread your way through uppermost set of pinnacles to the foot of the 40m exit chimney which leads to the summit plateau (the tallest of these pinnacles could probably be climbed via an impressive cleft). The route can be completed in a day with an early start, and easy escape is possible at several places.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="45">Cathedral Mountain</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="46">Intro: Cathedral Mt presents a tantalising wall of rock as you walk along the Overland Track south from Kia Ora Hut. The geology of the cliffs, however, very much dictates the climbing here. Most of the cliff is undercut - the base is actually the bottom of the dolerite and has very few cracks - and to climb across the blank-looking roofs anywhere to get onto the main cliff would be very, very hard - no easy routes here! The only recorded route to date used the easiest and probably only spot you can readily get onto the main cliff and that was via a huge flake that had fallen off, and this provided a bridge onto the main cliff thus avoiding climbing the desperate looking undercut. The cliff above the flake also looked like it had enough cracks to be only of moderate grade and that was significant as well as some sections were fairly blank looking. Subsequent would-be climbers have so far been repulsed by the overhangs and lack of protection in the fused cracks.</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="47">Access: Access isn't simple. John Chapman started from the end of the Mersey Road near Moses Creek and "there was then no track so we climbed through forest to Chapter Lake then westwards onto Cathedral Mountain - roughly the route of the current day tracks except we went around the south side of Chalice Lake". Alternatively, follow the Overland Track north and cross the Mersey River if you can by the chockstone below Fergusson Falls .&lt;br/&gt;</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="300m" name="Exit Peals" number="15." stars="" id="48" fa="John Chapman and Joe Friend, January 6th 1975.">"The climb is fairly easy to find. About a quarter of the way (very rough estimate) along the base from the northern end is the huge flake and this is near the base of the arête between the north facing and north-western facing cliffs (I think its just south of the arête proper) - its not hard to find as its the only one! We climbed directly up from there in a straight line and the cracks were initially thin with lots of bridging etc then as we got higher the crack widened into a chimney. As time was getting on, we did the top third solo but that was under grade 10. The flake and lower part of the cliff we graded as 16. My notes show that we basically followed the arête between the north-western facing side and the western facing side and the climb probably tops out at close to the 1387 spot height that appears on the Cathedral Map (Tasmap 1:25 000 Cathedral and Du Cane)".</climb>
  <text id="49"/>
  <text class="heading2" id="50">Mt Geryon</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="51">Intro: The cliffs of Mt Geryon and The Acropolis provide absolutely exceptional climbing "on the wild side". Many of the routes have had few ascents, so obviously take appropriate precautions - the seriousness of accidents is high, with help a good day's walk away. The downside of the climbing is twofold. Firstly, expect the usual foul weather. Multiple trips before even laying chalk to rock are hardly uncommon (no joke). Secondly, packs full of camping and climbing gear are good "fun". Described below are the classic traverses - and not to be missed! The north to south direction is the norm, but it has been done the other way, both ways in a day, and even in winter. This is a classic day in the mountains, with nothing too serious to stop competent climbers. The crags were written up in the 1984 issue of Australian Rock and a guidebook was later published by Chris Baxter in 1999. Refer to that guide for full details of all climbs. The route descriptions have been reproduced here, however more detail around access etc is needed. If anyone has high resolution photos (4+ megapixels) of these faces suitable for topos please send them in.</text>
  <text id="136" class="indentedHeader">History: Climbing the peaks of Geryon was never going to be easy. This is a mountaineer’s mountain, located up a remote, deep-sided valley and accessed by a long bush walk or, if you were lucky, by travelling some of the way by boat. The three-bodied giant of Greek Mythology has no “easy way round the back” and the first recorded ascent wasn’t until 1937 when Hugh Gordon and David W Wilson from the Hobart Walking Club pioneered a route up the Northern Peak, the highest on the range (1516m). The mountain was not climbed again till 1948 when Bill Bewsher, G. and R. Sharman and R. Lewis repeated the Northern Peak climb but the following decade or two saw a period of exploration mountaineering matched only by that on Federation Peak. &lt;br/&gt; In March, 1950, the Launceston Walking Club stepped into the picture when John Daniel and Keith Lancaster accompanied David Wilson back to the Northern Peak on a preliminary reconnaissance trip. They returned in November 1950 with Jim Turner and Chris Binks and this time they summitted on the Southern Peak (1509m), with Lancaster and Daniels going on to climb the Southern Spur. The following year, 1951, they were back for a successful “do or die” attempt on the Foresight, with all four reaching the summit.&lt;br/&gt;Over the next couple of years Sydney Rock Climbing Club and the Melbourne University Mountaineering Club members visited, with Nada Cox, Marie Dickenson and Nicki Dankin making the first female ascents of Geryon summits in 1959, followed soon after by with Beth Wilkins who, along with Peter Johnstone and John Fairhall from the Van Diemen’s Climbing Club and the HWC, made the first ascent of the Southern Spur.&lt;br/&gt;It wasn’t long before climbers were back to attempt the first winter ascent. A Victorian Climbing Club party in 1959, launched “Pinefreeze 1” where they established a camp at the col between Geryon and the Acropolis but an accident and consequent rescue operation curtailed their attempts. Nevertheless, Bob Jones and Geoff Cox did manage to reach the summit of the Spur.&lt;br/&gt;In August the next year on “Pinefreeze 2”, George Glover, Geoff Shaw, Bruce Naylor and Lloyd Lobbe, Peter Davis and Charles Roxborough climbed the Southern Peak, and about 10 days later Ron Cox and Pat Conaghan from the University of Queensland summitted on the Northern Peak. Apparently they had never climbed snow before and their only knowledge came from text-books. Descending the mountain after their successful ascent, Cox slipped and fell 50m with Conaghan arresting him on an ice axe belay so preventing a disastrous fall 350m down the west face.&lt;br/&gt;In Jan 1961, the same pair was back for another epic, this time the first traverse North to South of the Mountain, involving 3 bivvies with little food or water, a serious and impressive mountaineering feat involving technical climbing and the use of aid on the harder sections.&lt;br/&gt;The problem of getting to the crags for the pioneers in the 60s was cunningly circumnavigated by the purchase of a boat, the good ship "Venus", for the newly formed Climbers Club of Tasmania. The early history is full of stories that focus as much on the trials and tribulations of the weekend sailors as it does on their actual climbs. Nevertheless, significant new climbs were added, particularly on Geryon and the Acropolis, by the likes of Tom Terry, Alan Cross, Reg Williams, Allan Keller, Phil Robinson, Bob Jones and Bernie Lyons, resulting in some of the longest and most spectacular climbs in Tasmania. The Victorians were here again, in the late 1960s and early 1970s, with a youthful Chris Baxter, John Moore, Phil Stranger, Roland Pauligk, Glenn Tempest, Chris Dewhirst and the Gledhill brothers. New climbs continued to be discovered, if at a less hectic pace, with locals Col Hocking and Chris Rathbone joining the push, but in more recent times there have been few major additions other than the Shield, a 450m 24 on the East Face of Geryon by Steve Monks and Jane Wilkinson. &lt;br/&gt;</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="52">Access: Mt Geryon North-to-South Traverse: Ideally the best camping is probably straight up from Geryon campsite at the Pool of Memories. Walk to the Geryon campsite, cross the stream, and then follow the scree for 15mins onto the Labyrinth, heading slightly right to the first lake. Mt Geryon West Face: The best bet is to camp at the Geryon Campsite. From Pine Valley Hut start as for the Acropolis summit track. About 20mins from Pine Valley Hut is a long log bridge over a creek. Just past this there is a fallen tree on the track left with a v-notch cut in to it and a sign indicating the direction to the Acropolis. Hop over this tree and follow the track that continues into the bush, generally following the creek. There is a mixture of track markers along this track: red and white blazes and various coloured flagging tape. The track is blocked in places by windfall and at times is directly beside the creek while sometimes skirting around uphill from the creek a fair way. Keep trusting the markers and you will end up at the Geryon campsite which shows obvious signs of human habitation. If you lose the markers, stick to following the sound of the creek. .</text>
  <text class="heading3" id="53">Mt Geryon West Face</text>
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  <text id="159" class="text">Geryon Traverse.&lt;br/&gt;The recommended way to do this is South to North and then reverse North to South in the same day. This makes for more climbing and less walking and is around 10-14 hour day from Geryon Campsite.</text>
  <climb id="161" stars="***" extra="" number="16." name="Geryon South" length="45m" grade="18" fa="">1. 35m 18&lt;br/&gt;2. 10m 15</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="" length="" name="North Peak Normal Route" stars="" id="55" number="17." fa="D.W. Wilson, H. Gordon, 30 Dec 1937. FA winter: R. Cox, P. Conaghan, Aug 1960.">From the Cephissus scree chute traverse N below the cliffs of the South Peak. From near the foot of the Foresight descend a large gully and continue N under the cliffs of the North Peak to a scree gully. From the top of this go S along the level ridge and down to a saddle. Scramble up S to the N summit of the peak.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="307m" name="Damocles" number="18." stars="" id="56" fa="Rob Taylor, Jerry Grandage, Daryl Carr, varied leads, 27 Jan 1968.">Obvious line on the SW face of Mt Geryon's North Peak leading to the gap between the North Peak and the turret to the N. Start below a dark corner. 1. 35m. Go diagonally R up the R-slanting corner to just below a scree slope 2. 23m. Go diagonally L across the scree and L round a large block to below two corners. 3. 33m. From the ledge 3 m above, take the L line for 3 m. Go into the R line and follow it to a large ledge at 16 m. Traverse 7 m L and up to a stance. 4. 40m. Crux. Climb the line on the R to a ledge at 16 m. Go up L to a large ledge below a sleep wall. Jam the crack in this to a ledge then up and R to a long vegetated corner ledge, below the Sword! 5. 37m. Traverse 5 m R to the scrubby line. Climb it for 5 m and move L under a bulge. Go up for 7 m to a vegetated ledge which leads L to a tight chimney which is climbed for 13 m to a large flake on the L 6. 43m. The gully to the gap. 7. 36m. Head towards the summit, deviating slightly L on a thin flake at about 13 m. 8. 36m. Continue up, veering R to a large ledge. 9. 24m. To summit (slab).</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="106m" name="Damocles Direct" number="19." stars="" id="57" fa="Clive Parker, Roger Caffin (alt), 23 Feb 1968. Alan and Geoff Gledhill did the first free ascent of pitch one (originally 12, M3),  22 Jan 1969.">1. 38m. Crux. Bridge the dark corner to a ledge on the R at 23m. Go up to a large grassy ledge. 2. 40m. Scramble up for 7 m. Climb the L crack. Go up ledges to above a corner 3. 28m. Climb L of the crack to a large ledge (the fourth belay of Damocles). Climb the corner (up the Sword) and through bushes. Belay in the corner at the R end of a bushy ledge. 4-8. Climb the crack at the L end of the ledge which is the "tight chimney" on the fifth pitch of Damocles. The rest of this route is more or less as for Damocles.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="9" length="91m" name="Foresight Normal Route" number="20." stars="**" id="58" fa="J. Daniel, J. Turner, D. Pinkard, K. Lancaster, C. Binks, 1 Jan 1951. ">An excellent outing into exciting country. Scramble up the huge gully below the West face of the South Peak and head for a chimney leading to the Foresight/North Peak notch. 1. 25m. Crux. Climb the chimney then scramble to the notch. 2. 35m. Go up the West side of the Foresight to a step on the skyline overlooking the East face. 3. 30m. Exposed but easy climbing on the East side to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="40m" name="Swiss Guide" number="21." stars="" id="59" fa="P.Schwitter, S.Bunton, G.Jordan, Mar 1988.">Head up the square corner from the Foresight-South Peak notch. Above the sloping ledge, follow the crack up the corner past two bulges. Ascend the east face for the last 3m.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="182m" name="A Common Thirst" number="22." stars="" id="60" fa="Kieran Loughran, John Stone (alt), Jan 1979.">Start on the NW face of the South Peak about 20 m R of the prominent chimney-gully a short way SW of the col between the South Peak and the Foresight; at an easy looking chimney-gully 1. 27m. Up R side of chimney. When it steepens go R round the arete and up to the end of an obvious R-leaning diagonal. 2. 25m. Scramble up slightly L. Climb the crack in the R wall of the corner. Go towards prominent slabs up R. Traverse R across a bushy ledge and climb a short corner to a large ledge below a slab. 3. 25m. Reverse the corner and traverse. Climb the R wall of the obvious corner until forced L to the arete. Go up arêtes and corners lending towards L side of headwall. Good ledge with blocks. 4. 15m. Up to next ledge. Step L round the arête and climb the wall to a large ledge at the foot of a grassy ramp. 5. 50m. Go along the ramp to the first line. Up the gully into a corner and up it. 6. 30m. Climb the wall above for 2 m or so and go L to a groove. Go up past blocks and a small roof to a long narrow ledge below the headwall. 7. 10m. Crux. From the L end of the fault, climb the wall, stepping L at the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="114m" name="Vulcan" number="23." stars="" id="61" fa="Tom Terry and Alan Cross,  1967.">Start in the gully 45m below the base of the Foresight. 1. 21m. Up and diagonally R. 2. 15m. Cracks to big blocks. 3. 18m. Diagonally L round scrubby corner then diagonally R. 4. 18m. Up slabs then diagonally R for 8 m on easier ground. 5. 20m. Up obvious line to R of overhangs. 6. 18m. Up to grassy gully leading to top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="170m" name="Solantic" number="24." stars="" id="62" fa="Kim Bischoff, Grant Dixon, Phil Robinson, varied leads Christmas 1979.">Starts from the gully leading to the Foresight-South Peak col. 1. Climb the NW face 2. Traverse R to the W face proper 3. Slab and corner 4. Crux - chimney and off-width 5. Easy gully to N end of the South Peak.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="175m" name="West Wall Eliminate" number="25." stars="" id="63" fa="Chris Dewhirst, Roland Pauligk, John Moore, varied leads, 24 Feb 1967.">Start below the big corner in the middle of the W face of the South Peak. 1. 37m. Climb the corner and continue up the narrow, slanting slab. Now up to a big ledge. 2. 43m. Traverse L and climb the corner. Step L and climb the diagonal crack to a small, slanting ledge. 3. 37m. Go up the main corner to a huge block 12 m below the roof 4. 33m. crux) Go up for 2 m. Traverse L across the steep wall. Follow the corner diagonally L to a good ledge. 5. 25m. The crack above.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="235m" name="Bad Craziness" number="26." stars="" id="64" fa="C.Baxter, D.Gairns, G.Talbett, Jan 1989.">Start at the grass terrace 50m right of the West Wall Eliminate and above a small cairn. 1. 45m. Climb a short corner with an awkward start, then easily up left and straight up (still easy) to a ledge 15m below a major corner. 2. 40m. Move up to the corner, then follow it for a few moves (it becomes an overhanging chimney further up). Exit up left to a ramp. Continue up to a ledge. 3. 35m. Continue up left in the line then climb the wall above at the first opportunity, passing just left of a pinnacle of loose rock. Continue up to a stance. 4. 40m. The easy (but loose) line leads straight up, via a short excursion to the left, to the ledge above the V chimney. 6. 30m. Continue up the chimney-gulley over loose blocks to exit up left in a black groove which leads (unpleasant and loose) to the southwest corner of the summit plateau (this nasty section is best avoided by continuing through the easy chimney above the last belay until it joins the descent route from the peak).</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="13 A1" length="123m" name="Elf" number="27." stars="" id="65" fa="Tony Crapper, John Bennet, varied leads, Gordon Talbett, 1 Mar 1968.">On the S face of the South Peak are two cracks. Elf starts from a sloping grass ledge below the L crack which it follows diagonally L to the top of the SW face. 1. 33m. Climb the corner using aid (presumably one point) at the overhang. Continue up slab to gully. 2. 36m. Up the gully to a large ledge on L. 3. 33m. Crux. Strenuously up the R crack to a large sloping ledge 4. 21m. The L line; a tight chimney.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="9" length="46m" name="Pixie" number="28." stars="" id="66" fa="Bruno Zeller, Tony Crapper, Feb 1968.">The crack R of Elf is reached after a 40m slab scramble and a traverse. 1. 30m. Crux. The line involves a thrutch in a V crack 2. 16m. The line.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="4" name="South Peak Normal Route" id="67" stars="" number="29." length="" fa="J. Daniel, J. Turner,  K. Lancaster, C. Binks, 5 Nov 1950.">From the head of the scree chute leading down to the Geryon campsite, scramble up right to pick up a route to the bivouac cave above and north of the Acropolis-Geryon saddle. Go directly above the cave and scramble north below the west cliffs of the South Spur. Drop down a steep gully below the northwest arete of the South Spur into another gully which leads to the col between the South Peak and the South Spur. Go up to just below the col, then either traverse easily on the west side below the ridge, until you can scramble up to a large slab, or alternately, follow the skyline ridge (exposed) from the col to a slab. Climb the slab and gullies to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="43m" name="Better Judgement" number="30." stars="" id="68" fa="Dayle Gilliatt, Phil Dolan 31 Jan 1989.">Follow the scree slope to the top, then scramble up the prominent gully to large block with wide, vertical crack on L.The climb follows this crack system to the top. 1. 8m 16. Crack to large ledge. 2. 25m 18. Crack, then step R to prominent twin cracks. Climb these to ferny ledge. 3. 10m 18. Step R, then L. Up R side of orange flake. Wander off... 3a. 12m 21. Direct Finish. Instead of wandering off L, step R on to large ledge and more greenery. Climb clean crack and overhanging V-groove to awkward exit. (Fixed wire may still be in situ).</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="100m" name="Morning Tea" number="31." stars="" id="69" fa="Chris Rathbone, Phil Robinson varied leads, 25 Feb 1983.">Enjoyable and straightforward, this route climbs the middle of the N wall of the South Spur. Start in the gully about 50 m below the South Peak-South Spur notch. 1 &amp; 2. Straight up the wall in a series of steps to the NW arête. 3. 15m. Arête.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="102m" name="Piece of Cake" number="32." stars="" id="70" fa="Allan Keller and Terry Costigan,  7 Dec 1967.">Follows the NW arête of the South Spur. Start from the col before the drop to the gully leading to the South Peak-South Spur notch. 1. 24m. Crux. Start on the L of the face and move R to a ledge at 15 m. Move to R side of face and climb thin diagonal cracks to a big ledge. 2. 27m. Climb up from the R edge of the arête and aim for the L of the sharp arete above. Belay on ledge above arête. 3. 36m. Up L of main arête. 4. 15m. Up to summit.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="4" length="" name="Southern Spur Normal Route" number="33." stars="" id="71" fa="J. Daniel, K. Lancaster, 5 Nov 1950.">From the Acropolis-Geryon saddle follow the skyline ridge moving out over E face (exposed) where necessary. Mostly scrambling.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="72">For more information on the following traverses, refer to Roger's topo at the beginning of this section.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="" name="Geryon Traverse - South to North" number="34." stars="***" id="73" fa="J. Moore, R. Williams, 15 Jan 1966.">1. Climb the South Spur Normal Route. Go to the north end of the summit. 2. 75m. Abseil 35m then climb down 40m to the col between the peaks. 3. Along the skyline to the South Peak. From its north tip climb down 12m to a ledge. 4. 35m. Abseil to the South Peak/Foresight col. 5. 15m. Go to a vertical crack under the L end of a large sloping slab. Get onto the slab and move R to overlook the east face. Fixed peg belay. 6. 15m. Step to the R across an exposed corner. Continue up more easily to a bushy ledge. 7. 10m. To the summit. 8. 65m. Reverse the last two pitches of the Foresight Normal Route to the col. 9. 20m. Go R a couple of metres. Climb an easy crack. Traverse L over slabs and go up to a large ledge. 10. 40m. Go up steeply to a ledge at 5m. L along that ledge and then up 3m R of a corner. Move up and across L to the corner. Continue L to a chimney and climb it. 11. 35m. Easily to the summit of the North Peak.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17M1 or 19" length="" name="Geryon Traverse - North to South" number="35." stars="***" id="74" fa="R. Cox, P. Conaghan, 10 - 12 Jan 1961, with three bivvies. F recorded FA(but likely done before this): A. Landman, I. Groves, 1997.">An amazing, but fairly easy, undertaking. Not to be missed! Start at the edge of the North Peak, overlooking the void. Abseil 45m to the big ledge, from the huge block, taking care to have the ropes over the edge (4m sling required) - amazing stuff! Abseil or downclimb the remaining 20m to the col. 1. 35m. Climb pitch two of the Foresight Normal Route. 2. 30m. Climb pitch three of the Foresight Normal route. 3. From the south end of the Foresight, abseil 40m to the col. At the col, still on abseil, walk down the rocks a further 5m R, to the chimney line of pitch four. 4. 25m. Climb the obvious direct line 8m right of the nose of the South Peak using four points of aid. Go up the easy chimney to below a large overhang. 5. 35m. Climb round R of the overhang. Move L and up to the ridge crest and summit. (Alternately, the previous pitch can be stretched out to 45m and an airy belay, leaving a simple 15m to finish). 6. Walk along the top of the South Peak, then reverse (descend) the South Peak Normal Route to the col. Scramble diagonally R then L over easy rock to the gully which leads to the summit of the South Spur. 7. Descend the South Spur Normal Route.</climb>
  <text id="135" class="text">The two-way traverse of Geryon's four peaks makes for a long and demanding "mountaineering" day and has had few ascents over the years. Starting from the south, the first double traverse was completed by Lyle Closs and Reg Williams on 31 Jan, 1971</text>
  <text class="heading3" id="75">Mt Geryon East Face</text>
  <text class="text" id="76">Routes here are best accessed from a bivvy cave known as "Heim" that is directly under the east face. To get there from Pine Valley Hut, follow the track to the Acropolis summit and descend into the Acropolis-Geryon saddle (short downclimb section). Drop off the saddle on the east side and skirt under Geryon East Face to Heim. Heim accommodates 3 people comfortably and it has a water source about 100m further north and down the hill slightly.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="193m" name="East Face of the South Spur (Original Route)" number="36." stars="" id="77" fa="John Moore, Chris Dewhirst (alt), 18 Feb 1967.">Start R of the distinctive orange streaks and L of the big corner. 1. 37m. A series of cracks and corners. 2. 30m. Straight up for 21 m then diagonally L to just below and R of a sentry box. 3. 12m. Traverse 6 m L. Climb the corner past a large tree. 4. 37m. Climb the chimney above to an attractive flake. From the scrubby ledge at 18 m, go up to the base of a V corner. 5. 37m. Crux. Traverse 2 m R and go up the diagonal crack for 12 m. Climb the corner above and go diagonally L to a slanting, scrubby ledge. 6. 40 m. Wander up to hit the ridge 30 m S of the summit.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14 A1" length="371m" name="East Face of the South Peak (Original Route)" number="37." stars="" id="78" fa="Allan Keller, Tom Terry, Mike Douglas, 6 Mar 1966. FFA Jerry Grandage 23 Jan 1968.">Start by scrambling up a short gully to a chimney below the South Peak-Foresight col. 1. 48m. The chimney to a scree slope. 2. 39m. Across L on scree to the foot of the huge ramp. 3. 33m. Up ledges on the L arête of the ramp to a ledge with loose blocks just L of the main corner. Piton belay (fixed). 4. 33m. The corner to a good ledge. 5. 30m. Straight up for 20 m on steep scrub. Up and L on grass to a bollard. 6. 35m. Traverse L (grass) for 10 m to a corner which is climbed to a bushy ledge. 7. 33m. L on bushes, then up a slab before moving back R to a ledge with a fixed peg belay. 8. 30m. Go R for 7 m to a bushy corner which is climbed, over a large flake, to a good ledge. 9. 26m. Go diagonally L (easy) to a peg belay on the L wall of a vegetated corner. 10. 23m. Crux. Climb the corner (two piton runners) (or make an early excursion on to the dirty R wall) which eases (still bushy) to a ledge and bolt anchor. 11. 26m. Go up the gully for 6 m to fork to L. Climb overhanging loose blocks and go up the corner (fixed peg runners) and move L to a small stance on the face. Tension L from a fixed peg to a bolt which is used to lower into the gully on L (peg belay). 12. 15m. The easy but loose gully.</climb>
  <climb extra="(actually 19?)" grade="17" length="357m" name="Orion" number="38." stars="**" id="79" fa="Roland Pauligk, Peter Canning, varied leads, 18 Feb 1970. First free ascent (three aids from pitch 7) Peter Treby, Terry Brookes, varied leads, Jan 1974. ">A distinctive line leading to the South Peak-Foresight col. 1. 48m. As for previous route. 2. 50m. Up scree to a ledge below the line. 3. 48m. Up to foot of chimney. 4. 35m. Chimney. 5. 30m. The line. 6. 48m. Up to below large overhang. Bolt anchors. 7. 35m. Crux. Climb the overhang and continue in the line to a stance. 8. 48m. The line to another small stance. 9. 15m. Up to a ledge then up passing a good cave (shelter) on R. One long abseil down the W side to get off.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="365m" name="Titan" number="39." stars="" id="80" fa="Roland Pauligk, Rob Taylor (alt), Jan 1968. FFA Ross &amp; Lachlan Taylor, February 2012.">Described in Chris Baxter’s guide as a ‘scrubby monster that will go free to an offwidth master’, Titan actually went free to a pair of punters who found it to offer generally excellent and scrub-free climbing (definitely mossy, though) up a powerful line. &lt;br/&gt;1. 48m. As for Orion etc. &lt;br/&gt;2. 45m. To upper R edge of scree. &lt;br/&gt;3. 48m 13. Step right and up for 18m. Go diagonally R below a smooth wall and up a short corner. go to a steep crack which is climbed. Go L to a good ledge. &lt;br/&gt;4. 24m 13. Down L then up to a corner. Climb this for 5m to a scrubby ledge. Go 3m L to next corner which is climbed for 5m. Exit R to scrubby ledge below large corner. &lt;br/&gt;5. 26m 18/19. (Was 17 A2) Sustained climbing past three (now rotten) wooden pegs to ledge on R, the single bolt anchor still looks remarkably good. &lt;br/&gt;6. 21m 18. (Was 13 A3) Rather than aiding the face on L, climb straight up the corner crack and straight through roof above to second small stance. &lt;br/&gt;7. 24m 19. (Was 13 A2) Climb line on R for 8m then climb diagonally right for 5m to a ledge. Easily R to next corner, which we climbed around by stepping R and doing a hard move into a corner then back up L to a ledge. &lt;br/&gt;8. 50m 17/18. (Was 13 A2) Climb corner above to bushy ledge. The corner above is followed to a sloping ledge on the L. Step right, climb small corner on L, go R to V corner, which is climbed. Climb crack on R to stance. &lt;br/&gt;9. 21m 16. (Was 13 A2) Climb corner to ledge on R. &lt;br/&gt;10. 12m 15. V corner to stance on L. &lt;br/&gt;11. 24m 19. (Was 15 A2) Climb corner above and move R at 6m. Go up R corner to roof, traverse R past a terrifying loose-looking block you can’t avoid pulling on (make sure you belayer is not directly below you). Climb up past an old bolt moving R, before moving easily up to a good ledge. &lt;br/&gt;12. 15m. Glory ramble to the summit of the Foresight.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="11/16" length="370m" name="East Face of the Foresight (Original Route)" number="40." stars="" id="81" fa="Bob Jones, Bernie Lyons, leads unknown, 26 Dec 1961.">In the third small 'bay' down and round R of the previous climbs an obvious easy scrubby line slants up L behind a huge flake. From the R end of the scrubby ledge atop this, some 25 m up, go up short scrubby walls and move up and across R, mainly on easy vegetation to the foot of an enormous gully leading up L to the North Peak-Foresight col. (From here Jones and Lyons apparently more of less followed the last two pitches of the normal Foresight route.) (In Mar 1983 Glenn Tempest, solo, did a significant variant, grade 16, up the buttress immediately L of the huge gully.)</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="24" length="450m" name="The Shield" number="41." stars="**" id="82" fa="Steve Monks, Jane Wilkinson 20 Feb 1994">Start as for East Face of the Foresight route. 1-4. 150m. Follow this route over easy, scrubby ledges to bottom of huge gully system. 5-8. 130m. R to steeper ground, then up over scrubby ledges and steepening walls, tending R towards base of headwall. Up L to gain base of deep chimney-corner below headwall proper (pitch 9 of Pericles). 9. 20m 17. Avoid chimney-corner by climbing L arête, then R to large, bushy ledge. 10. 25m 22. Move belay 10m R to below vertical corner. Up this, then swing R to large, bushy ledge. 11. 40m 24. L crack-corner to ledge (crux) (not corner with fixed wire in it!). Up crack above to block in alcove. 12. 20m 18. Corner to ledge below prominent triple-pointed roof. 13. 35m 22. L to wide crack, up this to ledge. Overhanging crack through bulge to deep V-niche below summit roof. 14. 30m 23. Up to chockstone below steepening. Traverse boldly and with difficulty R to arête above triple-pointed roof. Up R to crack, follow this R.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16 A1" length="450m" name="Pericles" number="42." stars="**" id="83" fa="Alan and Geoff Gledhill, varied leads, 28 Jan 1969. On the second ascent in 1974, Keith Wadsworth and Rein Kamar, alternate leads, eliminated single aids from pitches 6, 9 and 12. Ian Brown and Keith Williams eliminated the final aid sling from pitch 9 in 2000 (at grade 16 or 17).">Start at a shallow chimney (P on L wall) 65 m L of the bivy cave and a similar distance R of the previous route. 1. 42m 10. Climb the chimney crack for 30 m then continue more easily. 2. 36m 4. Leave the gully and head up R. 3. 36m 4. Go straight up to a steepening. 4. 36m 7. Go L then up to a small horizontal ledge. Traverse 6 m R. 5. 39m 11. Climb the first line to the R for 36 m. Move L and climb a short steep wall to a small stance. Peg belay. 6. 39m 13. Climb the scrubby crack to the R then on to the nose (peg runner). Go to the end of the ramp and up a crack for 5 m. Traverse 3 m L. Piton belay. 7. 42m 8. Go up to below a small chimney on L. 8. 15m 9. Move L then up into the foot of the chimney. 9. 21m 16 A1. Climb the corner, L of the chimney to the overhang. Move back to the chimney which is climbed to the chockstones. Go R on to the face. Climb the corner (sling for aid), piton runner, to a ledge. Peg anchor. 10. 33m 12. The chimney to a large ledge. 11. 30m 12. Up the line to the nose of the buttress. 12. 30m 14. The same line to a small chimney. 13. 36m 8. Traverse 9 m R to a large chimney; climb it to a small stance. 14. 15m 14. Climb the overhang where the chimney narrows to a crack.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17 A1" length="432m" name="Prometheus" number="43." stars="" id="84" fa="John Moore Roland Pauligk, alternate leads, 28 Feb 1967 to 1 Mar 1967">On the E face of the Ducane Plateau 100 metres or so N of the bivy cave is a large fallen column. 20 m R of this is a crack with Prometheus etched beside it. 1. 39m 15 A1. Climb the scrubby crack to where the crack steepens. Aid the R crack then free up behind pinnacle to a large ledge. 2. 45m 11. Diagonally L to foot of line. Belay above scree gully. 3. 36m 11. The chossy buttress on L. 4. 36m 13. Go further L then up the broken area for 20 m, traversing R to detached flakes. 5. 21m 15. Traverse diagonally R to main gully. Go up to piton belay. 6. 36m 15. Go down 3 m. Traverse R across gully to feasible crack which leads to a big ledge 7. 42m 15 A1. Climb the chimney above to a ledge at 21 m. Traverse L to a steep, wet crack (.peg for aid) which leads to a ledge above an overhanging wall. 8. 39m 13. Up the chimney crack to loose blocks below the overhang. 9. 18m 15 A1. Climb the widening chimney to a rest at 6 m. Aid the corner above and step L. 10. 30m 16. Climb the corner behind to a ledge. Go over loose blocks to next corner which is climbed to foot of chimney. 11. 45m 15. Climb the narrowing chimney then up easily. 12. 45m 10. Gully.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="85">East Face of Du Cane Plateau (Point 1507)</text>
  <text class="text" id="86">In Rock No 59, (Winter 2004), there is a description of a climb made on the plateau edge to the north of the Geryon North peak.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="330m" name="Global Warming" number="44." stars="" id="87" fa="Aaron Kristiansen, Simon Wedsel, 25 Feb 2004. ">Walk N under the E Face of Mt Geryon to N of the huge gully N of North Peak. 1. 60m 16. Chimney. 2&amp;3. 100m 13. From base of gully, climb wall between large headwall on L and detached pillar on R. 4. 50m 14. Steps (poor pro) to foot of small headwall. 5. 40m 14. Traverse R below headwall. Steep crack to foot of chimney. 6. 30m 16. Chimney to ledge, then steep crack on L arête to ledge below corner. 7. 50m 15. Corner, chimney, then traverse up and L on steep face. Descent: follow track to summit of Mt Geryon North Peak and abseil down W face.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="88">The Acropolis</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="89">Intro: The columnar architecture of the Acropolis is alluring and yet far from forgiving. Routes here are steep and sustained demanding energy bursts from the climber far past the point where body and mind are flagging. Climbing on the Acropolis brings a new definition to the term "feeling totally shagged," and yet the climbing is rewarding and tantalising in spite of the effort required.</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="90">Access: Access From the Bottom: Routes can be accessed from the Heim bivvy cave directly under the east face of Geryon. From Pine Valley Hut, follow the track to the Acropolis summit and descend into the Acropolis-Geryon saddle (short downclimb section). Drop off the saddle on the east side and skirt under Geryon East Face to Heim. To reach routes on Acropolis North Face, sidle back towards saddle then up vegetated scree to base of routes. Alternatively access fvia Geryon campsite scree to Acropolis-Geryon saddle. Access from Top: From the top of the Acropolis walk over towards Geryon (if you can see it), following a vague, but defined track until you sense you are above some decent cliffs. To identify the top pitches of established routes your best bet is to look for fixed gear over the edge, (e.g. the antique wooden wedges at the top of OWH/TGOE, or the bolted arete of TFS). Astroboy is also prominent, as is its blocky starting ledge.</text>
  <text class="heading3" id="91">The Acropolis North Face</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="220m" name="Venus" number="45." stars="" id="92" fa="Chris Baxter, Dave Moss (alt), 3 Mar 1983.">Start 20 m up L of the L buttress of the main face. 1. 30m. Up easily on R then behind block to good ledge on R. 2. 20m. Step R and climb cracks over loose blocks to exit L to ledge. 3. 25m. Crux. Step L to wide crack. Up this and the rib above. Step R to slabby corner and up it to block on L. 4. 30m. Up wide crack above then move R across loose blocks and up flake to behind pinnacle. Move up to belay. 5. 30m. Climb cracks on L to ledge. Step L, up bushes, then R to chimney. Climb this over first chockstone then go through hole to good ledge. 6. 25m. Crack above, taking R fork at top. 7. 25m. Traverse L a little, up step, then round L to foot of chimney in corner. 8. 20m. Up chimney and blocks above to ledge on R. 9. 35m. Up corners, cracks and ledges to top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="230m" name="North Face (Original Route)" number="46." stars="" id="93" fa="John Worrall, Reg Williams, (alt), 19 Jan 1966.">Start at the foot of the lowest buttress on the face (down R of Venus, on the next buttress - really the middle one). Broken climbing for 60 m up the crest of the buttress leads to a large green gully running diagonally down L. Cross this and continue up, moving slightly L for 75 m to a prominent chimney. (A traverse off L is possible here.) Climb the chimney and go up to a short wall. The final pitch (36 m) is the crux; go L round the corner and climb a crack to a large ledge. Traverse R above the belay and go up the steep line. Finish up chimney between face and pinnacle.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="270m" name="The Wizard of Wad" number="47." stars="" id="94" fa="Chris Baxter, Dave Moss, (alt), and Miles Martin, 6 Mar 1983.">Start up R of the previous route on the R side of the buttress, a few metres L of Fury 1. 30m. Easily diagonally up L to buttress crest.. 2. 25m. The crack directly above. Step L over block and go up arete on L. Now easily to large block 3. 45m. Up the buttress crest to the large green ramp. 4. 40m. The wide crack above then the chimney to a ledge on L. 5. 40m. Climb blocks on R and move across L to chimney. Go up this to ledge. L to a wide crack .which is climbed, moving L, to a good ledge. 6. 15m. Climb the crack above to a grass ledge. Move L to below chimney. 7. 40m. Climb the chimney and blocks above moving L to a ledge below a hand-crack. 8. 25m. Climb the hand crack and the cracks above on the R to go up behind a huge pinnacle. 9. 10m. The middle crack.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="30m" name="Astroboy" number="48." stars="**" id="95" fa="Glenn Tempest, Russell Clune, 7 Mar 1983.">This remarkable and sustained crack is approached by abseil from the top of the cliff. Take many #1 Camalots / #2.5 Friends. The first L-lacing corner L of the top of Fury; starting from a block ledge.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="25" length="30m" name="The Far Side" number="49." stars="***" id="96" fa="Nick Hancock, Roger Parkyn, Mar 2004.">The sharp arête R of Astroboy. Abseil to the Astroboy start ledge (a 50m rope doubled just makes it). Stupidly exposed barn-door laybacking on perfect rock.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="220m" name="Wailing for Jonah" number="50." stars="" id="97" fa="J.Keane, D.Baker, Feb 1991.">Start at the cairn 5m L of Fury. 1-2. 90m. Climb straight up the corner system and a grassy ledge. 3. 40m. Climb the second corner system L of Fury to a bushy ledge, then ascend the off-width corner (with jammed block). 4. 35m. Climb the obvious crack on the R to a prominent ledge. 5. 15m. Finish up the corner on the L.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18 A1" length="210m" name="Fury" number="51." stars="" id="98" fa="Peter Treby, Terry Brookers, varied leads, 31 Jan 1974.">Start about 20 m up R of the toe of the middle buttress (the lowest) below a line leading to a small pale yellow and black roof at about 8 m 1. 40m. Up and chimney past roof on L. Up to third ledge. 2. 45m. Corner. At 7 m traverse L above the roof to a crack which is climbed (easing) to the large grass ramp. Go up R to below corner. 3. 40m. Climb the main corner to a small horizontal break. 4. 45m. Crux. The line to a ledge. Up, one aid 2 m below roof, to semi hanging belay. 5. 20m. Corner.</climb>
  <climb id="134" name="Take Me to the River" length="200m" grade="23" fa="John Fischer and Simon Bischoff, 25 Feb 2012." number="52.">The corner R of Fury. Start as for the first two pitches of Fury to get up to the grassy ledge. 1. 40m 17. 1st pitch of Fury. Better than it looks. Bridge up R side of the Chimney than move left and belay below big corner. 2. 45m 15. 2nd pitch of Fury. Up sketchy chockstones and traverse L onto ledge and up chimney. The first two pitches of Fury are average. The rest of Fury looks great but we opted for this: 3. 35m 20. Easily up double cracks to ledge. Go 3 metres R of Fury to the overhanging laser fist crack! There is a "can of corn" size chockstone 15 meters up the crack. Finish just above chockstone on a "boogie board" rock. Belay takes #3, #4, or #5 cams. 4. 30m 23. Woah. Continue up splitter fist crack a few meters until it is possible to traverse R to the next corner crack. Unfortunately you can't go straight up to the roof through the bush because of a hidden loose block(!). Up the R corner (wide 16) until passed the greenery then dicky traverse back L to the roof. Surprisingly good gear leads just L of roof to a sit down rest. Bomber gear at your face and some unbelievable holds give a 23 bomb bay roof crux into a 6 meter grade 18 OW. Belay takes finger size and #3's. 5. 50m 21. Truly great. Up the beaut corner that starts fists and eventually fuses a few meters below the bushes. Thankfully the crack on the right opens up just in time! Take the whole rack for this baby. A .4 protects the crux at 35 meters but youll need the big stuff for the sting in the tail OW right at the top. The donga of rock at the summit is the finishing jug. Gear: Set of wires and double cams from .4 to #3 and a single #4 and #5 with optional #6 (for OW sissys) and extra #3 for 3rd pitch anchor.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="250m" name="One Not So Perfect Day" number="53." stars="" id="99" fa="Dayle Gilliatt, Phil Dolan, 29 Jan 1989.">Start as for Fury. 1. 30m 16. Chimney L of roof to easy ground and big ledge. 2. 20m 15. Step R to easy ground, then climb corner to stance. 3. 25m 10. Traverse L, then up tending L to top of block. 4. 30m 10. Through slot and overhanging block to easy ground. Tend L up vegetated and broken ground, then directly up to large, sloping, grassy ledge. Belay off the "tombstone". 5. 30m 16. Traverse L easily, then up to corner with tricky finish. 6. 30m 14. Traverse L on to face, then up R- veering cracks. R round the bush, then up to a ledge. 7. 30m 15. Short traverse L then twin cracks for 10m to awkward exit R. Mantel through blocks, then out L over easy, vegetated ground to prominent clean corner. 8. 18m 13. Follow Original Route up easy clean corner to large ledge. 9. 35m 13. Easy ground to below notch, then L crack.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="25" length="210m" name="Black Man&apos;s Country" number="54." stars="***" id="100" fa="Glenn Tempest, Russ Clune (alt), 6 Mar 1983 (Originally done with one aid at the top; both led that pitch free next day).">Start up the L side of the 80m wall (Mellow Buttress), just R of the R-lacing corner marking its L edge. 1. 45m 18. Climb thin cracks and the face just R of the corner until these join the corner. Belay on large block in corner below overhang 2. 30m 20. Traverse 5 m R and climb groove R of roof. Pass small roof and continue up corner to ledge 3. 45m 22. Step R on top of blocks and climb crack to face. Climb it and step R to top of large flake. A short face leads up and L to a crack. Climb this past a small overhang to a ledge. Continue up hand-crack, stepping R and up to a large ledge 4. 40m 17. Obvious crack and chimney to bushy ledge 5. 30m 19. Climb L- facing corner for 9 m then step R to ledge. Climb face above to another ledge 6. 20m 25. Up and R to obvious L-facing corner. This pitch used to have a fixed peg runner near top, which has since gone walkabout.</climb>
  <climb id="164" stars="***" extra="" number="55." name="Acropolis Now" length="28m" grade="19" fa="Ben Maddison/ Ingrid Crossland April 2015">A stellar pitch of alpine dolerite jamming. A more direct and easier finish to Black Man’s Country. A good pitch in its own right. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Start: Rap in at small cairn on cliff top, R. (looking out) of last pitch of Old Wave Heroes (identified from top as corner with wooden wedges). Alternatively, from pitch 5 of Black Mans Country, locate cairn on pillar top, rather than swing R to pitch 6 of that route.&lt;br/&gt;1. 28m. Up beautiful hand face crack with great pro moves and pro.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="240m" name="Old Wave Heroes" number="5556." stars="***" id="101" fa="Glenn Tempest, Chris Baxter Mar 1983.">1. 50m 18. As for Miles From Nowhere 2. 40m 21. Step L and climb the crack. Avoid the block at the top by climbing the L wall to a ledge. 3. 40m 20. The crack above curves R to a broken chimney. Up this to a superb ledge on the L. 4. 40m 19. Climb the chimney until an obvious hand-traverse leads out R to a crack. Up this to a large ledge. 5. 50m 19. Instead of the off-width in the corner, climb the hand-crack just R of it. Move L to the corner which is climbed to below the wide chimney of The Gates of Eden. Up this and the easy corner above to a ledge on the L. (TGOE goes up the body chimney above.) Go L to the arête and climb the thin crack and wall to a ledge. 6. 20m 18. As for TGOE.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="200m" name="Miles From Nowhere" number="5657." stars="" id="102" fa="Glenn Tempest, Russell Clune, (alt), 3 Mar 1983.">Start a few metres down R of Black Man's Country at a small black V groove (marked with an arrow) in the middle of Mellow Buttress. (L of low obvious grey roofs). 1. 50m 18. A fantastic pitch! Up the grooves and cracks to the top of a block. Climb the thin face crack above and step up R to belay. 2. 50m 18. Go up R to the wide corner crack. Above, a shallow corner leads to a series of stacked blocks. Belay on top. 3. 35m 17. Take the hand crack just R of the main line to a good ledge. Go R behind block. 4. 25m 19. Up the wide line behind to a small stance. 5. 40m 21. The main line is avoided by a small traverse R to another off-width. Up this and the hand crack above.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18 A1" length="205m" name="The Gates of Eden" number="5758." stars="" id="103" fa="Chris Dewhirst, John Moore, varied leads 17 Feb 1967. Glenn Tempest and Russell Clune eliminated the two aids from the final pitch on 7 Mar 1983.">Start immediately R of Mellow Buttress, up R of MFN 1. 30m 6. Climb the slabby wall to the foot of the main face. Take the corner above to a large block. 2. 24m 8. Up the smaller corner, higher to the L. Back R to below a dank chimney. 3. 15m 8. Climb the chimney and go R to large ledge. 4. 15m 13. Up the short steep crack to R, then the wide crack above to top of block. 5. 36m 11. Go diagonally L across a slanting, scrubby ledge. Continue up to a large ledge below a small corner. 6. 27m 9. Climb the small crack above. Belay on the big ledge below a large jammed block. 7. 30m 17 A1. Up for 6 m, traverse L (leader used tension, second didn't) and step down to foot of a bulging crack. Climb this and the chimney above to a good ledge. 8. 21m 15. Climb the chimney for 9 m to a ledge. Continue up the unpleasant body crack. Move up L to belay. 9. 20m 18. The magnificent corner containing two antique wedges.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="200m" name="In the Days When the World Was Wide" number="5859." stars="" id="104" fa="Chris Rathbone, Phil Robinson, (alt), 24 Feb 1983.">A six-pitch route starting up the wall 7 m R of TGOE and following a direct line. The last pitch is the crux.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="105">The Acropolis West Face</text>
  <text class="text" id="106">Follow walking track towards summit of the Acropolis as far as the foot of the bluffs on the S face. Head L, following foot of cliff for about 300m to detached, sky-scraper-sized tower (two hours from Pine Valley Hut).</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="155m" name="The Plenipotentiary" number="5960." stars="*" id="107" fa="John Moore, Reg Williams, Chris Dewhirst, varied leads, 19 Feb 1967. (Description amended by A. Kristiansen, Feb. 2004. For more details see Rock No 59).">"A classic, up there with the best, anywhere" (Aaron Kristiansen, Feb. 2004). Scramble up a gully below the pinnacle. Gear: include from knife-blade pitons to 80mm, 60m ropes. 1. 36m 8. From notch above large gully on south face of tower, up buttress to large sloping ledge. 2. 30m 13. Up slab to foot of corner. 3. 21m 15. Traverse L, past a thin crack. Continue diagonal traverse and layback up narrow slabs. Swing round into a vertical V-crack which is climbed to a large ledge. 4. 12m 8. Traverse diagonally L. Climb a sharp corner to a small ledge. 5. 38m 16. Traverse R to the V-crack and climb it. (May be harder than 16, according to Aaron!) 6. 18m 15. Chimney to the pinnacle top. Descent: Abseil to col behind pinnacle. Three more abseils from col down the S face of tower to start of route. Alternatively, find a way from the col, (roped scrambling), to the top of the cliffs.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="165m" name="Juggles" number="6061." stars="" id="108" fa="Col Hocking, Phil Robinson, varied leads, 31 Jan 1977.">Starts up the corner just R of The Plenipotentiary. Start 10m R of corner. 1. 30m 10. Series of steps, keeping R of vegetation. 2. 12m 11. Climb 6 m up crack in corner on L. Traverse over block to main corner. 3. 24m 15. The corner. 4. 30m 13. Up underneath overhang and go R round it. Climb crack then gully to 8 m below The Plenipotentiary notch. 5. 6m 13. L corner to notch (Route now follows ridge behind The Plenipotentiary). 6. 12m 11. Traverse R and up short corners to ledge. Go 6 m R to base of off-width. 7. 15m 15. Climb off-width for 9m to ledge below overhang. Traverse L to nose, level with top of pinnacle. 8. 30m 12. Chimney and crack. 9. 7m 11. Go R to short crack with loose blocks. Climb this to big ledge which leads L to exit gully.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="109">The Guardians</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="110">Author: Compiled by Tony McKenny from information in Argus and CCT Journals with additional information and help from Chris Baxter, Peter Jackson, Steve Bunton, Bill Andrews, Kevin Lindorff, Stefan Karpiniec, Jon Nermut, Bob Bull, Ross Taylor and Kate Hamilton</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="111">Intro: Despite the fact that these crags are clearly visible from Lake St Clair, climbers have long passed the Guardians by in favour of the delights of nearby Geryon. The cliffs form an impressive escarpment, about 1.5km long, of off-vertical buttresses and walls ranging along the south end of the Guardian Massif (1394m). The rock is dolerite but unusual in that, although there are some chimneys and crack lines, columnar jointing is not obvious and the structure is in part determined by a set of strong joint planes dipping south and presenting a series of steeply sloping ledges and slabs. Appearances from below though are deceptive and the rock is generally steep, offering delightful climbing of a high standard.</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="112">Access: The quickest access is by boat (http://www.lakestclairwildernessholidays.com.au/lake-cruise-and-ferry or contact (03) 6289 1137) from Cynthia Bay up Lake St Clair to Narcissus Hut. Follow the Overland Track west for 200m until the signposted turn-off is reached for Lake Marion and Gould Plateau. The track leads off north across the flat boggy plain for about 2km to Nicholls Junction. Take the LH track along Marion Creek to southern end of Lake Marion where the track ends (GR 203512), about another 5km or 1½ hours. From a campsite by the lake, walk and paddle round the western side of the Lake, then head more or less directly up towards a large scree falling to the R of the prominent summit buttress (one group advocated actually wading across the lake as being quicker and easier...). The going is complicated by a belt of “jungle” between the lake and the cliff and progress is slow – allow up to 1½ hours to the base of the rock. Alternatively, climbers have continued up to the summit via the east face of Mt Gould or from Pine Valley Hut, and camped at the idyllic tarn near the Guardian's summit, descending to climb on the face. The descent gullies were originally marked with cairns back in 1974, probably long gone, but an abseil bolt (which may still be there) was placed at the head of the main gully as well. As with all the WHA, a Parks Pass is required by all climbers visiting to the area. Please stick to the principals of minimum impact bushwalking and climbing (no bolting for example). This also a “stove-only area”. For further information see Tasmap 1:25 000, Du Cane 4235 and Olympus 4234, or Cradle Mountain – Lake St Clair 1: 100 000.</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="113">History : To say these crags have been neglected is an understatement. In fact there appears to be only three recorded visits by climbers. In 1972 a large party from the CCT including Ian Lewis, John Moore, Reg Williams and Bob Bull made a reccy, working out the access and prospecting for new lines resulting in two routes of significance, Theseus (15) and Sunfighter (14). A couple of years later, Peter Treby and Terry Brooks visited and climbed Grenadier (14) and Guardian Angel (14) while Roland Pauligk and Reg Marron climbed a number of serious lines on the same trip including epics such as The Dragon (20), 280m and the equally big Monster (20), major efforts on this remote crag. The trip was made even more exciting when Anne Pauligk and her climbing partner were nearly benighted resulting in an epic rescue by the others in driving rain and darkness. The Victorians were back in 1976 when Kevin Lindorff and Roark Muhlen added Excelsior (15), and the weirdly named Arch De Ballsnatcher (16). Since then… apparently nothing.</text>
  <image noPrint="false" src="guardians.jpg" width="" id="114" height="525"/>
  <text class="text" id="115">The most obvious landmark of the cliff is the towering summit buttress, with a series of lesser buttresses to the left, and a line of walls and smaller buttresses continuing round further right.The climbs are described from L to R (that is, from approximately west to east).</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="11" length="155m" name="Half ’N Half" number="6162." stars="" id="116" fa="Ann and Roland Pauligk, and Reg Marron, 29 Jan 1974">Start: The corner formed by the third buttress L from the Summit Buttress and the recessed wall (the next line L of Billa Bong). Scramble up 20m to below a large block. 1. 45m. Surmount the block on the R and follow the "rugged" line. 2. 45m. Up for a few more metres, then delicately R into a clean corner. Continue up and move across L to a belay. 3. 45m. Climb up the chimney then up the corner on the R to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="145m" name="Billa Bong" number="6263." stars="" id="117" fa="Roland Pauligk and Reg Marron, 25 Jan 1974.">Start: The corner line separating the second buttress from the recessed wall, to the L of Turret. 1. 45m. Climb the deep line through a short chimney. Step L and continue up the corner and walls above. 2. 45m. Straight up the line. 3. 45m. Straight up the line to a black wall. Climb the corner-crack on the L. 4. 10m. Easily to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="180m" name="Turret" number="6364." stars="" id="118" fa="Ann and Roland Pauligk, and Reg Marron, 29 Jan 1974.">Start: A wide line separating the first buttress from the second. 20m L of Guardian Angel. 1. 45m. Up the "rugged" line. 2. 45m. Follow the obvious line. 3. 45m. Surmount the bulge, up for a few metres, then take the crack line on the L. 4. 45m. Keep on the line to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="247m" name="Excelsior" number="6465." stars="" id="119" fa="Roark Muhlen, Kevin Lindorff (alt), 15 Jan 1976.">A superb climb. Starts 10m right of "Turret" and 10m left of "Guardian Angel". 1. 50m. Up the slabs to step up left over the overlap (crux) and up a few metres to belay. 2. 45m. Delightful climbing up the line. 3. 50m. Continue up the line. 4. 47m. Up the line, easy up the gully to the base of the short chimney, then up this to belay. 5. 55m. Up the line, then spectacularly around under the roof to step left at the lip then up to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="195m" name="Guardian Angel" number="6566." stars="" id="120" fa="Terry Brooks and Peter Treby, 24 Jan 1974.">Start: The prominent crack-chimney line in the wall, 10m R of Excelsior and L of Warrior. 1. 20m. Climb the line in the slabs to belay where the angle steepens and the crack proper begins. 2. 40m. Ascend the line to belay in a chimney position below a chockstone. 3. 35m. Continue up the line. At 15m step R under a precarious downwards jutting spike and move up to belay at the base of the vee – chimney. 4. 18m. Up the chimney and take the LH crack where they fork to reach a small grass ledge on the L. 5. 20m. Step back R and climb the scrub-chocked corner, mantelshelf and continue to belay beside a balancing spire. 6. 30m. Walk across the back, move up and climb a short chimney and continue up to belay where the rock eases to slab angle. 7. 30m. Traverse the slab up to the R, through the break in the steep wall and diagonally L across the final slab.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="190m" name="Warrior" number="6667." stars="" id="121" fa="Roland Pauligk and Reg Marron, 28 Jan 1974.">Start: The corner line just L of Dragon. Begin on the grassy ramp level with the second pitch of Dragon. 1. 50m. Climb the obvious corner crack to the easy ground. 2. 50m. Continue up the rugged line for about 20m, step R and follow the corner to belay in the upper part. 3. 40m. Straight up for a few metres, then L into another corner. Up this to a large ledge. 4. 50m. Climb the weakness in the wall behind to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="280m" name="Dragon" number="6768." stars="" id="122" fa="Roland Pauligk and Reg Marron, 24 Jan 1974.">Start: A deep obvious line about 25m L of the Monster. 1. 50m. Follow the line to a large ramp. Move up the ramp veering R to the centre of a slab. 2. 45m. Climb the thin line in the centre of the slab. Continue via a short, steep section to the start of a deep crackline. Follow this to below an overhanging corner. 3. 20m. Crux. Climb the corner, move diagonally across L, then straight up to the start of a deep, clean chimney and crack line. 4. 45m. Follow the line. 5. 45m. Follow the same line until it ends. Step R and continue in the R veering crack line to exit onto a grassy ledge. 6. 45m. From the ledge traverse 3m L to the start of an easy angled corner. Follow this. 7. 30m. Straight up to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="280m" name="The Monster" number="6869." stars="" id="123" fa="Roland Pauligk and Reg Marron, 26 Jan 1974.">Start: The deep overhanging line on the Summit Buttress, L of Grenadier. Climb easily for 30m to where the rock steepens. 1. 45m. Follow the obvious line. 2. 10m. Climb to the overhang and surmount it on the L. 3. 40m. Crux. Follow the overhanging line and below another large overhang. 4. 5m. Move around the overhang and belay on top of it. 5. 40m. Up the steep section and when the two lines appear, take the RH one. Follow the line more or less straight up. 6. 40m. Climb the easier section, and then the crack system in the black wall behind to a good ledge. 7. 40m. Climb the thread runner overhang on its LH side, then follow the obvious line of weakness to easier ground. 8. 30m. Move up the diagonal ramp for about 20m, then climb the black line in the wall on the R easily to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="273m" name="Theseus" number="6970." stars="" id="124" fa=" Ian Lewis and Reg Williams, (alt. leads) 5 Mar 1972.">A steep and rewarding climb with an emphasis on friction. It follows the central line on the large summit buttress of the Guardians. The rock structure has a stepped appearance when viewed from below but this, however, is an illusion quickly dispelled when it is found the ledges slope downwards at a steep angle. Pitons were used for runners and belays. Start: At the highest point of a vegetated shelf separating the buttress proper from a lower subsidiary shelf. 1. 50m. Move up, trending R. Belay on a small ledge on an arête. There is a small wall above on the L. 2. 12m. Climb diagonally L and over the wall. (An attempt was made to continue up at this point...). Suggested that pitches 2 and 3 are combined. 3. 26m. Traverse L, delicate at first, then climb diagonally L up a steep ramp to an awkward belay stance. 4. 20m. Climb a steep, awkward wall. Continue up on easier ground to a small stance below a diedre slanting L. 5. 23m. Traverse R, over sloping holds (delicate) until one is underneath a line through the overhangs above. Climb the line to a sentry box. 6. 40m. Continue up the line. The route now enters a steep wide gully which is followed to the top of the climb. 7. 46m. Move up, keeping R, until at 13m a thin overhanging crack is reached. Traverse L over a smooth slab, then climb up and bridge up to the foot of a thrutchy chimney. Avoid this by stepping R onto a central rib. Climb up the rib and continue to a good stance near the R wall. 8. 26m. Move up L of the short wall above the belay then traverse R and climb a narrow chimney. Belay at its top. 9. 30m. Climb up and move on to a substantial ledge on the L side of the gully. Step R to a narrow exit chimney. Climb this and belay at its top. Walk off on a ramp leading diagonally L, roping up for a short wall leading to the summit plateau.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="226m" name="Grenadier" number="7071." stars="" id="125" fa="Peter Treby and Terry Brooks, 25 Jan 1974.">A varied route with two excellent pitches to begin with. Start: In the centre of the cliff line is a large gully, to the R of the main buttress. Grenadier takes a meandering line on the RH side of this buttress, beginning at a thin crackline above the LH scree shute (No pegs were used on the ascent). 1. 40m. Climb the line up the slabs, through the first overlap to belay on a ledge below the second. 2. 35m. Through the roof and follow the line to belay below a grass ledge. 3. 40m. Move easily L along the grass ledge. 4. 45m. Continue diagonally L for 10m, then move up climbing short corners and walls to belay on a small ledge on the R of a slab. 5. 20m. Step L around the arête and climb diagonally L up the slab, to belay below the prominent corner line on the upper part of the buttress. 6. 46m. Crux. Climb the corner. This pitch was done as two on the first ascent to clean some dangerously loose blocks, but it should go in one.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="180m" name="Arch De Ballsnatcher" number="7172." stars="" id="126" fa="Kevin Lindorff, Roark Muhlen (alt), 13 Jan 1976.">The poor man's Monster? Starts at the head of the first gully L of the descent gully at the RH end of the cliff. The leaning right-angled corner on the L provides a good first pitch which leads to a ramble to the top. 1. 40m. Up the corner (crux) and continue up the line to belay. 2-4. 140m. Move up and slightly R to gain the rib (R of gully) then follow this up and continue to top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="253m" name="Sunfighter" number="7273." stars="" id="127" fa="John Moore and Bob Bull (alt. leads), 5 Mar 1972.">A prominent line on the major buttress to the L of the “smooth walls” at the extreme eastern end of the Guardian’s cliff line. When viewed from the lake the buttress reveals two deep lines diverging from a common start. The route follows the RH one. Start: At the common foot of the twin lines. 1. 26m. Climb straight up the gully to a crack in the L wall. 2. 26m. Move up the chimney above the belay for 6m then traverse L under a small roof to a ledge at the top of a crack. Climb the crack behind to a small ledge. 3. 20m. Crux. Climb up behind the belay to the foot of a steep V corner. Place a runner, climb down and traverse R to a foothold on the arête. Move up the arête until it is possible to step across R onto loose blocks. Continue across until it is possible to climb steeply down into the gully. 4. 16m. Go straight up the gully to the overhanging blocks. 5. 33m. Wend a way through the blocks till the angle eases, then continue up the gully until a traverse out R brings one to a grassy ledge. 6. 36m. Continue straight up the chimney behind to a good ledge in the gully above. 7. 30m. Continue up the gully to a large chockstone. Layback easily round to the R to a good ledge. Jam up the crack behind to a spacious ledge. 8. 33m. Pull over the block above the belay and scramble up the gully above. 9. 33m. Mixed scrambling and delicate slab climbing leads out L to the top.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="128">Mt Ida</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="129">Intro: Mt Ida, on the east side of Lake St Clair, is one of the easiest mountains to recognise due to its conical shape with a sharp dolerite point. The mountain was the scene of a number of epic attempts, summer and winter, via the good ship Venus in the 60s and 70s, but is rarely climbed today.</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="130">Access: Access to Mt Ida, on the eastern shore of Lake St Clair, was originally by boat but future climbers may have to foot slog in due to a proposed change in Park's access policy. If you can, persuade the Lake St Clair ferry service to drop you off in the morning and arrange for a pickup later in the afternoon. The alternative may be to walk from Derwent Bridge via the Travellers Rest Lake and Lake Sappho, a weekends return walk on its own.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="165m" name="Mount Ida SE Ridge" number="7374." stars="" id="131" fa="Philip Blake, Mike Douglas, Chris Viney, 21 Jan 1975.">This line is the RH (as viewed from Lake St Clair) skyline of the SE rock of Mt Ida. It leads directly to the summit. The LH boundary of the face is a more broken ridge with a prominent pillar on it. A large step forms the base of the ridge. A protruding thumb of rock about three-quarters of the way up the ridge is a feature prominently visible from the Lake. Start: at the foot of the step. Cairned. 1. 35m 13. Straight up obvious line (i.e. cracks and grooves) to broad ledge with old dead tree [might may or may not still be there!]. Strenuous mantleshelf after start of this pitch. 2. 35m 3. Over short wall behind ledge and scramble up easy line to foot of good rock. 3. 35m 7. Keep L of good rock to gain broad platform beneath protruding rock thumb (PRT). 4. 40m 12. Up the exit crack/chimney which is gained by a short traverse R from base of PRT. 5. 20m 12. Complete exit chimney and emerge on summit of Mt Ida.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="132">Eldon Bluff</text>
  <text class="text" id="133">Eldon Bluff has long attracted the eye of climbers. Clearly visible from many peaks in the west, it was reputed for years to have the highest dolerite cliffs in Tasmania. The trouble is it is in the middle of bloody nowhere, miles from the nearest road head and with no access tracks through the thick, nearly impenetrable scrub. The CCT tried to reach the mountain in 1967 but it wasn't till 1970 that a group led by Tim Walkden-Brown managed to get to the main crag above Lake Ewart. They climbed "The Splinter" (10) before retreating back via the Collingwood River. The only other recorded climbing trip seems to have been an epic by Lucas Trihey and Bob McMahon in February 2000 when they managed to climb "Terra Incognita" (250m, 17) in seven pitches (one bivi), on the NE face . They took a boat across Lake Burbury near Queenstown on the Lyell Highway, travelled up the King River to the junction of the South Eldon and Eldon Rivers and then bush-bashed for four days in typical west coast weather via Eldon Peak (1439m) to the crag. They did find excellent rock but also proved it wasn't as high as they had hoped! For further details and a map (but not a description of the climb unfortunately), check out Rock 35 or Australian Geographic 57.</text>
</guide>