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Guide
<guide version="3">
  <header access="Park to the Coles Bay side of where the road crosses Dove Creek and walk straight to the cliff. If you'&apos;re lucky you'&apos;ll find a cairned route you'&apos;ll arrive in about 25 minutes. You can descend from each end of the cliff, or use the gully above Porked, or downclimb the obvious vegetated line just right of Durham at about grade 6. The cliff is up to 60m high and faces due west." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="About 500m north from the summit of Mt. Dove, and to the east of Dove Creek, is a prominent bulge of sweeping granite slab called Sow Spur. The cliff is up to 60m high and faces due west, and has some quite good slab climbs. Windy Hill is the cliff just below the summit of Mt Dove." name="Mt Dove" rock="Slabby pink and grey granite, up to 60m" sun="Afternoon sun" walk="25-50 min" id="1"/>
  <text class="heading1" id="2">Sow Spur</text><imagetext>
  <image noPrint="false" src="Coles Bay Sow Spur 2.jpg" width="800" id="3" height="318"/><climb printLayout="Rotate"/>
  <climb extra="" grade="" guide.action="submit" guide.id="3" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="8" name="The Trotter" number="1." stars="**" id="4" fa="M.McHugh, Robert McMahon, C.Viney 1967?">This line is the obvious crack splitting the pillar of Sow Spur. The way off is to downclimb it - its an easy solo.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="120m" name="Do As You Swill" number="2." stars="" id="5" fa="Joe Friend 1974.">Another psychodrama by the master. At the lowest point of Sow Spur, at a water streak where the track first meets the cliff. 
1. 60m. Climb the water streak, heading right when it does. When it disappears, continue up and rightwards, heading for a belay at the foot of a corner directly below a break in the wall above. 
2. 25m. Climb the corner then up to the roof. Through this, then up to the slab to belay. 
3. 35m. Step up onto slab and place a runner or two in the short crack. Move up and rightwards towards crack on the righthand edge. Climb to top.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" guide.action="submit" guide.id="5" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="40m" name="House Of Straw" number="3." stars="" id="6" fa="E. Peacock, C. Reed Jan 1991.">Increased traffic would earn it a star. Takes the line up the steep slab 3m left of the Crack of Pork. Tenuous and sustained slab climbing, has your toes screaming for respite and your mind on full alert due to loose crystals underfoot . Start below COP and up the water worn groove below the main crack of COP for 3m. Traverse left to a bolt and follow the bolt line up the wall to the top, a crux at every clip as you wait for your feet to peel off. The second bolt needs a wire or a pre-bent hanger, and the top section is a wee bit run out.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="6" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="100m" name="The Crack Of Pork" number="4." stars="" id="7" fa="Robert McMahon, Peter Jackson Apr 1971.">Move up the hill from the Trotter pillar to the right. After a large grey face two ramps appear going up to the right. Ascend slabs to the higher one and ascend 30 metres soloing the scrub or slabs to the foot of a wide crack in a corner overhanging to the left. Pretty worthless. 
1. 20m. Layback up corner, cross left into main line and ascend corner to tree. Alternatively (and better) climb the layback just right of the main line (grade 16). 
2. 15m. Ascend chimney to bush belay. 
3. 33m. To the right up wide twin cracks past overhang to belay. 
4. 32m. Continue easily to the the top.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="7" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="95m" name="Pourquoi" number="5." stars="*" id="8" fa="M.McHugh, R. McMahon, P. Jackson, May 1971.">A testpiece from way back. To the right of the Crack of Pork is a pinnacle. Start on the face to the right. 
1. 15m. Up slab and thin corner crack to the ledge. 
2. 35m. Move slightly left and up over bulge (originally aided) and continue up to overlap. Climb the face left of the main crack to a small ledge high on the left. 
3. 23m. Continue up slab on obvious line of holds to belay in the Crack of Pork. 
4. 23m. Continue to the top.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="45m" name="The Pork Of Doom" number="6." stars="" id="9" fa="Robert McMahon M.McHugh May 1971">Revolting and potentially dangerous. The obvious gully on the opposite side of the great flake of the Crack of Pork. Up corner to tree, continue in right hand line.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" guide.action="submit" guide.id="9" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="45m" name="Pigs Might Fly" number="7." stars="*" id="10" fa="A. Adams, G. Cooper, Jan 1991.">A pair of wings for the crux moves might be useful too.  Start at the arête immediately right of the Pork of Doom. Climb the arête, up the thin face past 3 bolts and up an easier slab above past another bolt.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="10" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="42m" name="It Ain'&apos;t Kosher" number="8." stars="***" id="11" fa="1st half: A. Adams, P. Steane, G. Cooper Feb 1987. 2nd half: D. Fife P.Cullen, Dec 88.">It probably ain't legal either!  Arguably one of the best routes on Sow Spur. Harder if you are short, and easier if you are long. 15m left of Pearler, at the steep arête. Climb the crack, then the crux, then the arête, then the face above past a bolt. 2.5 Friend essential high up.</climb><climb extraclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="11" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="55m" name="Pearler" number="9." stars="**" id="12" fa="M. McHugh, P. Jackson, R. McMahon May 1971.">A little gem that is a tad run-out in parts. Go right past steep section to prominent layback flake. 
1. 15m. Up short wall to flake and up this to a ledge. 
2. 33m. Up left ridge to bollard spike then easily up to overhangs. Left to chimney crack then up crack to belay where possible. 
3. 7m. Up chimney to top.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="12" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="55m" name="Boaring" number="10." stars="" id="13" fa="D. Fife, N. Ward, Nov 1982.">Sparse pro but good. A few metres right of Pearler. 
1. 45m. Up right to a flake stance and face moves to a slight dish crack. Left to flake system and up left to base of wide crack. Up flake crack then trend left to good holds. 
2. 10m. Up right on slab with little protection.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" guide.action="submit" guide.id="13" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="75m" name="Silk Purse" number="11." stars="**" id="14" fa="Garn Cooper, Sam Edwards (alt.), Jan 1995.">Ascends the steep slab roughly 7m right of Boaring. Had its missing bolts replaced in 2012, but some of the originals are now rusty and also need replacing. 
1. 50m. Follow the bolts to the large ledge. Take some small wires or a cam for down low and a 0 quadcam for higher up. 
2. 25m. Up the slab more easily to the top.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="14" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="25m" name="Porked" number="12." stars="" id="15" fa="Al Adams Garn, Cooper, Dec 1986.">Nothing beats the smell of cooked bacon. 20m right of Boaring, below a slight line up a short convoluted wall. Climb the wall.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="15" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="60m" name="Pigs In Space" number="13." stars="" id="16" fa="M. Sands, D.Jenkins Jan 1989.">Not well protected. Start below a tree 12m left of Stylised. 
1. 35m. Straight up to flake, up this then rightwards to horizontal break (crux). Easily up to belay on ledge. 
2. 25m. Straight up the slab above the chockstone (crux), then up the crack on left of wall (obvious line on wall toproped at 22. No runners).</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="16" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="65m" name="Stylised" number="14." stars="*" id="17" fa="L. Closs, J. Friend, R. McMahon, 1974.">Start 40m right of Boaring. Obvious crack line up middle of slabs 20m left of Durham. 
1. 45m. Straight up crack past small roof to belay on huge boulder out left. 
2. 20m. Move back right to crack, then up to roof and exit out right.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="17" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="6m" name="Stylised Direct Finish" number="15." stars="" id="18" fa="D.Jenkins, M.Sands, R.Appel, R.Hyslop, Jan 1989.">Through the roof.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="18" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="57m" name="Dive Between The Whirling Blades" number="16." stars="***" id="19" fa="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Dec 1986.">But don't get chopped to bits! Start off the same big ledge as Stylised and power up the slab between Stylised and Durham Direct.  Kit yourself out with a swag of RP's then follow the thin crack 3m right of Stylised for 35m, until crack yields its last placement (#4 RP). Move right 1m, place another RP and climb the crux slab immediately left of the RH thin crack toward a small ledge.  Step right carefully onto ledge and breathe a big sigh of relief.  Continue up line directly to headwall and belay.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="19" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="45m" name="Durham Direct" number="17." stars="*" id="20" fa="P. Jackson, N. Duhig, Apr 1986.">An obvious thin line found directly below the big block at the end of the first pitch of Durham. 
1. 25m. Up short wall to wide ledge. Up to another ledge and the obvious crack which gets progressively thinner. Follow this to belay on the overlap above the small banksia. 
2. 25m. Continue up to the big block and climb the slab to its left. Continue up to the terrace.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="20" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="55m" name="Durham" number="18." stars="*" id="21" fa="Peter Jackson, M.McHugh Dec 1971.">A boomer of a line and good fun. Start 60 metres right of Boaring below left trending stepped roofs. 
1. 30m. Up easily to horizontal crack. Layback and undercling left across this. Up thin corner (crux) then left again to hanging belay. 
2. 25m. Move left, then up crack and slab to top.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb id="58" name="Deliverance (aka Squeal Like a Pig)" stars="***" length="40m" grade="24" extra="12Þ" fa="Nick and Heather Hancock, Quinn Griggs Apr 2010.">One of the best, most interesting and well bolted slab climbs in the State. Start below a line of bolts leading up left to the most distinct white streak in the blank slab. Climb up leftwards over an overlap to join the streak. Make crux moves up, then left across it. Climb the runnel and then move right along a thin overlap, before climbing slightly left to finish. 12 bolts to DBB. 
</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="21" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="85m" name="Black Pudding" number="19." stars="" id="22" fa="I.Lewis, Kim Carrigan Jan 1975.">Start 50m right of Durham at small corner on waterwashed wall. 
1. 45m. Straight up corner to belay above small roof. 
2. 40m. Continue to top.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="22" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="50m" name="Captain Goodvibes (Pig Of Steel)" number="20." stars="**" id="23" fa="B.Kennedy, et.al. Jan 1977.">A first class climb, the top section is runout. Start 10 metres right of Black Pudding. Move up undercling layback flake until crack vanishes. Head up to overlap passing several good wire placements not visible from the ground. Turn the overlap easily and run it out to the next horizontal. Continue in this manner until you run out of rope and reach the top. Well protected up to the overlap, but run out and scarey above. Two rap bolts exist some 20m left of the finish of this climb.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="23" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="50m" name="Slab Of Pork (aka My Fair Lady)" number="21." stars="" id="24" fa="I.Lewis, Kim Carrigan Jan 1975.">Start 5 metres right of the Pig of Steel. Up slab following intermittent thin crack to weakness in overlap at 30 metres. Surmount and continue to top.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" guide.action="submit" guide.id="24" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="50m" name="Piggies" number="22." stars="" id="25" fa="C.(Ditto) Rathbone, Phil Bigg, Nov 1976.">About 40m right of Black Pudding up Sow Spur. Up the thin corner running through two small roofs on the horizon. Protection good on the hard sections though poorer on those easier. Pleasant tree belay on right of large blocks. Exit right.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="9" guide.action="submit" guide.id="25" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="65m" name="Oink" number="23." stars="" id="26" fa="G.Kowalik, R.Williams, F.Dutton Oct 1971.">Takes the slab to the right of the Piggies corner. Start Just near Piggies. 
1. 35m. Follow a line of obvious holds up on to a system of ledges at about 8m. Move left for a few feet, then diagonally right around a smooth section of slab. At about 20m move right beneath a hanging corner, and climb onto a broken surfaced slab which overlies the smoother slabs on its left. Continue up to belay. 
2. 30m. Directly to top.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="26" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Time &amp; Tide Waits For No Man" number="" stars="**" id="27" fa="Nick Hancock Sep 2001.">Climbs the west face of the perched boulder on the very top of Sow Spur, via 3 glued stainless carrots. Throw rope down other side for a belay to back up a good thread on top.</climb><textclimb>
  <text class="heading3" id="28">Piglets</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="29">Two short but worthwhile climbs on a small cliff (named "Piglets") above Sow Spur.  Traverse east from the very top of Sow Spur above 'Stylised' along to a little crag on the left, which looks about ten metres high from the base.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="20m" name="This Little Piggy" number="" stars="" id="30" fa="Alan Williams, Phil Robinson, 1 Aug 1999.">Left of an easy line in the middle of the cliff. Climb the wall and thin crack to belay back from the edge above an easy slab hidden from the bottom. Positive holds and good pro. A neat little route.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="Pigtail Soup" number="" stars="" id="31" fa="Alan Williams, Phil Robinson, 1 Aug 1999.">Twin cracks a few metres left of "This Little Piggy". Up right-hand crack before moving awkwardly left to a small sloping ledge next to left-hand crack. Follow this crack to the top.</climb><textclimb>
  <text class="heading3" id="32">Lizard Rocks</text><texttext>
  <text class="Discussion" id="33">In the gully between Mt. Amos and Mt. Dove. </text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="33" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="25m" name="Lizard" number="" stars="" id="34" fa="I.Lewis, Peter Jackson, Aug 1972.">Towards the right hand end of a grey cracked wall below a big ledge. 
1. 15m.  Up the wall on big holds. 
2. 10m.  Move to the right end of the ledge and swing up onto arête (crux) to the top.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" guide.action="submit" guide.id="34" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Gizzard" number="" stars="" id="35" fa="L.Wood, Peter Jackson 1976.">To the right of centre is a big bay on the left of which is a very deep chimney which can be walked through. Climb up the front of the chimney to the top. Poor protection.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="15m" name="Blue Tongue" number="" stars="" id="36" fa="Nick Hancock &amp; Rob DeCesare, May 2006.">The widening hand crack left of centre of crag, presumably downhill from Melon.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="35" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="25m" name="Melon" number="" stars="" id="37" fa="Doug Fife, Peter Jackson 1980.">Where the cliff starts to run back up the hill to the left of centre is a large smooth wall with a sloping powerful line blocked at the base by a small overhanging corner. Climb the face left and step right above the corner into the main crack line. Follow this to the roof. Step left and up (crux) to bottomless chimney finish. Abseil off tree.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" guide.action="submit" guide.id="36" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="27m" name="Glucojel" number="" stars="" id="38" fa="Marcel Jackson Jun 1994.">About 5m to the right of Melon is a smooth, steep wall with a crack reaching about 5m up. Climb this to its end, then stretch a long way right to the base of a second crack (crux). Lay up this until the cliff stops overhanging, then continue up the easy angled off-width.</climb><textclimb>
  <text class="Discussion" id="39">Across the valley to the west of Lizard Rocks is an obvious ampitheatre of overhanging streaked rock with slabs to the right. These are easily visible from Lizard Rocks and are about 300m below the cliffs of Mt. Amos. The following climbs are situated on the slabs.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="38" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="50m" name="Sternum" number="" stars="" id="40" fa="Marcel &amp; Peter Jackson Jun 1994.">About 5m left of Spitoon is an interesting slab with a short easy angled corner at its base. Climb this and then continue up the many parallel ribs of aplite to the top.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" guide.action="submit" guide.id="39" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="50m" name="Spitoon" number="" stars="" id="41" fa="Peter Jackson, N.Ward 1984.">Takes the groove of water polished aplite in the middle of the face.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="40" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="48m" name="Necrotising Fasciitis" number="" stars="" id="42" fa="Marcel &amp; Peter Jackson Jun 1994.">This is the black slab with vanishing aplite seam about 5m to the right of Spitoon. Pleasant and fairly easy slab climbing, though extremely runout at times.</climb>
  <text class="heading1" id="43">Windy Hill</text><texttext>
  <text class="Discussion" id="44">This is the cliff just below the summit of Mt. Dove. It can be seen from Coles Bay. It has a North Westerly aspect and is often windy. To get there it is easiest to go via Sow Spur as there is a track of sorts this way. This takes about 50 minutes. The climbs are worthwhile, and arguably better than most of the Sow Spur routes.</text><imagetext>
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  <climb extra="" grade="22" guide.action="submit" guide.id="43" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Feel The Pain - As Baxter'&apos;s Mum Straps It On" number="1." stars="" id="46" fa="Andrew Bissett, Nick Hancock, Aug 2001.">You'll wish you were being chased around by a kinky friend when your hands feel the needle like granite crystals on this route. The first crack left of the arête (Out and Up) with a tree at about 1/3 height. Up easily to the sloping ledge at 3m. move right and then back left to turn the bulge and reach the tree. Follow the crack more easily to the top.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="20m" name="Out And Up" number="2." stars="" id="47" fa="Doug Fife, Noel Ward Apr 1981.">Not so sporty. Poorly protected with suspect holds, but a great game if you've the stomach for it. Start at the left hand arête of the small cliff at the grey band. Climb up to the arête and the obvious hold. Cross over onto right hand face and follow the line of holds until you can go up the chimney.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="24" guide.action="submit" guide.id="45" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="30m" name="Swearin'&apos; In Bavarian" number="3." stars="***" id="48" fa="NickHancock &amp; Kieran Lawton, Mar 2002.">Between Out and Up and Blockheads is an awesome wall, with an open groove trending slightly rightwards. A tricky start leads to easier climbing into a steep groove. Undercling right and up, to a thin move right into a runnel. 3 U-bolts, good wires and medium cams.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="46" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="25m" name="Blockheads" number="4." stars="" id="49" fa="Doug Fife, N.Ward, Apr 1981.">Move right from the above, past several lines and a large curving corner with a deep offwidth. There are some depressions and disconnected cracks in the face to the right, and then a prominent curving corner with a rough crack.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="47" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="25m" name="Himmel, Arsch Und Wolkenbruch" number="5." stars="" id="50" fa="G.Cooper, Peter Steane, Nov 1986.">Much better than it looks. Start 2m right of Blockheads. The dead straight apparent offwidth. Climb the crack to finish near Indigo.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="48" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="27m" name="Indigo" number="6." stars="" id="51" fa="N.Duhig, Peter Jackson, Apr 1986.">Sustained, strenuous and airy. The second crack right of Blockheads.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" guide.action="submit" guide.id="49" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="55m" name="Screw Gate Zebra" number="7." stars="" id="52" fa="Robert McMahon, M.McHugh, Peter Jackson 1970.">This line is a big diagonal starting just right of the turret. 
1. 50m. Diagonally right up to the base of a wide crack. Continue up line to horizontal break (crux) and continue to the start of a ramp leading right. Belay at end. 
2. 5m. Climb overhanging flake to the left and finish.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="50" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="65m" name="Mr. Damage" number="8." stars="" id="53" fa="Doug Fife, N.Ward, Feb 1982.">Entertaining. Crack on the left hand side of wall right of Screw Gate Zebra. 
1. 45m. Offwidth but mainly face climbing, right at thin overhang to a good stance. Continue up right, then left under flake. Belay on flake. 
2. 20m. Up and trend right to ledge. Continue across right under horizontal line then up small depression to large ledge.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="51" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="65m" name="Fine Line" number="9." stars="**" id="54" fa="Doug Fife, N.Ward, Feb 1982.">Don't leave without doing this gem. In the centre of the face are 2 cracks. This is the left one. 
1. 45m. Climb blocks and crack to hole, continue up crack, face climb when crack closes. Belay at base of corner. 
2. 20m. As for Mr Damage.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="52" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="70m" name="Enkeffalin" number="10." stars="" id="55" fa="Doug Fife, N.Ward, Apr 1981.">Takes wall right of Fine Line. Little protection. 
1. 30m. Start as for Fine Line, go right below hole, then up face; right up ramp to belay. 
2. 40m. Traverse right, then up slab.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="53" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="80m" name="Spasiba Bolshoi" number="11." stars="" id="56" fa="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Mar 1986.">Runout. Has crux in common with Enkeffalin. The short crack a few metres right of Enkeffalin. 
1. 30m. Up crack, then step right and up over flake to 4m depression in face. Step out left of depression then straight up to strong diagonal and traverse along this to belay. 
2. 50m. Traverse left to surmount bulge to next diagonal ramp. Right along this and up steeper rock to a dead tree. Straight up the rock behind tree to belay.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="54" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="75m" name="Snus Pozjalujsta" number="12." stars="" id="57" fa="O.Nykvist, Pete Steane, Mar 1986.">A fine route. Start at the 4m corner crack which forms the left side of a large flake at the base of the right hand end of the cliff. 
1. 30m. Zoom straight up the water streak, stepping left after the small overlap at about 20m for a short distance, to the obvious right slanting diagonal. 
2. 45m. Climb the diagonal until a line of jugs heads out left. Along these and up the headwall. Alternatively a short crack can be climbed from the diagonal which eliminates the traverse.</climb>
</guide>
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