... {guide}<guide version="3"><header access="The property at Bare Rock at Fingal now has a new landowner who is a rockclimber. Andrew Martin and his partner Alannah are the owners of the property and they are climbers who reside in Queensland. Andrew writes (July 2007): "We are more than happy to have climbers access the land to climb at Bare Rock (Fingal), although we would prefer that people go up the side boundary fence (as opposed to the main drive) and then hook a right turn to the obvious parking area. We would also appreciate a quick call on 0418883418 telling us that you are heading up there, as we have neighbours looking out for the place and that way I can tell them of your intended arrival. Of paramount importance is the realization that the road up to Bare Rock is not council maintained, and in fact, is paid for and maintained by the three property owners (myself included). The other two have therefore asked that any climbers please drive slowly as this seems to really irritate them (the road gets chewed up very easily, as well as noise etc). I know this is a very small ask, but keeping the neighbours happy on this one would seem to be the wise option. Other than that I hope you all enjoy climbing there as much as I did. If I am about pop in, grab a beer (if there are any left) say hello etc... we would love to get to know the Tasmanian climbing crew!"<br/>To get there take the third RH turn, Legge Street, upon entering the town from the west and drive south towards the cliff (take my word for it, you can't miss it), turn L into Sorell Street, past several intersections. Continue straight ahead along a track heading towards the cliff to a locked gate (2.2 km from main road) with a sign reading "Private Property". The track turns sharply L, past a rough sign for "Alebert" Street, descends past an old wooden shed then gains an old rocky road leading up R to a small hill. Take the RH track, past another gate, giving access to a paddock. Cross the paddock to a gate, passing a sign to Bare Rock on the way. Follow a rough road R just over its crest which leads to within 100 metres of the cliff face." acknowledgement="Original guide by Jon Tiller (thanks to Bob McMahon and Simon Parsons), first published in Craglets." history="" intro=""It was not as if the black cliff at Fingal ever needed discovering. Perched up there in the paddocks behind the town, the black cliff streaked with orange is so obvious from the highway that I don't suppose anyone even notices it. The townspeople call it Bare Rock but I suspect the name is simply descriptive, like 'high mountain' or 'rough road'. Apart from the fact that it is there, I doubt whether it has much more significance for them." (Bob McMahon, Peaks 3).<br/>You cannot really miss Fingal Cliff, no matter which direction you come from, it's a huge 200 metre monolith of rock that jumps out and grabs you by the throat. Yes, it is dolerite but it has a unique structure which offers few natural lines and creates an incredible atmosphere for climbing. Even though Fingal Valley has a relatively high rainfall which makes the rock wet and greasy the faces dry very quickly, though the seepage lines remain wet for a long time. Also the climbing is of a serious nature due to patches of loose rock (helmets essential); height and exposure all contribute to its atmosphere. There is only a handful of routes to date (which take all if not most of the natural lines), but potential for 200m face climbs exist - The Sapphire Rose, Bisso of Orange and Finn Crisp being an indication of what might be possible.<br/>There are some questions about the grade of some of the climbs at Fingal, in these cases I have used the highest of the grades given to me. Reasons being that it is a serious cliff and this is reflected in the climbs. So if you find them easy or hard, too bad, that is the nature of climbing. Small quadcams, wires and RP's are very useful at this cliff and double ropes are essential. And remember, when it's hot on this cliff, you can get fried to a crisp!" name="Bare Rock" rock="200m slabby dolerite. Mostly trad with a couple of sport routes." sun="All day sun" walk="10 min" id="1"/><text class="indentedHeader" id="2">Descent: The abseil route down joins Sapphire Rose and takes the steepest and longest part of the cliff. The line is sensational and not to be missed. The first abseil (about 60m to the L of the top of MacDonagh as you are looking at the cliff) requires that you rap off a tree (festooned with tape) for about 30m to the first chain. Three more raps lead to the bottom. Alternatively one can walk off easily via a taped and cairned track down the LH (east) side. A steep and loose descent gully can also be used on the far R of the cliff if you must. Take the second gully on the R as you are walking along the top.</text><text id="25" class="heading3">Bare Rock Left</text><image noPrint="false" src="bareRockLeft2.jpg" width="" id="3"/><climb extra="" grade="16" length="160m" name="Fagus" number="1." stars="" id="4" fa="R.Schmidt, J.Butler, 1976.">This climb follows the line of the chimney on the far LH end of the cliff, beyond the McCavity/Batten chimney. Climb up the face just L of the start of Boneyard to about the second belay of Boneyard and climb the chimney.</climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="177m" name="McCavity-Batten Memorial Route" number="2." stars="" id="5" fa="R. McMahon, R, Staszewski, 1979 (Alt).">This route takes the line always confused with Faggus. Climb the first and second pitches as for Boneyard, but on the second pitch, instead of moving R up the ledge, go straight up from the belay - a delightful dolerite slab (17). The third pitch is a bold, sustained 50m pitch through a bulge of fairly loose rock in places and tight bridging in a huge chimney (17). The last pitch typically worthless.</climb><climb extra="" grade="15" length="240m" name="Boneyard" number="3." stars="" id="6" fa="R.McMahon, M.McHugh, P.Jackson (alt.), 1969.">A long and wandering route with much loose rock. An interesting experience! Start: Along the LH end of the cliff, a mossy nose of rock is the first pitch.
1. 37m. Climb the nose to a small ledge.
2. 40m. Move up and over onto easier angled rock. Move R along a ledge for a metre then climb the slab above to belay on a large ledge beneath a huge chimney line splitting the upper bulging yellow head wall (McCavity - Batten route).
3. 30m. Move across R delicately, then scramble to below a corner leading up to the obvious diagonal line below the head wall.
4. 37m. Ascend the crack to belay on the ledge constituting the diagonal line.
5. 46m. Scramble along out R along the line until the ramp narrows. Move delicately across (crux) to belay beside a large block.
6. 50m. Move up and over block and continue up the obvious L slanting line to the top.</climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="178m" name="Fionn McCool" number="4." stars="*" id="7" fa="R.McMahon, M.McHugh (alt.), 1971.">Pitches 1 and 3 are excellent but the others are fairly ordinary. Start in the centre of the cliff in a shallow chimney below the subtle leftward leaning line that the routes follows.
1. 48m 19. Climb the chimney and bridge over the bulge (crux). Delicate face climbing above leads to the base of a wide, dirty corner. Up the corner to belay on a small grassy ledge. Note: On the first ascent the bulge was passed on the L up a flake before stepping R into the crack. This flake is no longer present, making this pitch the crux of the climb.
2. 40m 15. Climb the L side of the groove and move L to below the corner that a huge detached flake forms on its RH side with the wall. Move up the corner and belay on top of the flake.
3. 40m 17. Follow the diagonal crack out L in an incredible position past a junction with another crack running at right angles. (These form an "X " visible from the ground high on the face.) Continue on up the main crack, make a move L over a steep wall (17) and then climb on around the nose, finishing easily straight up to a large ledge.
4&5. 50m 9. From the R side of the ledge follow the easy but loose line out to the top.</climb><climb extra="" grade="A2+" length="95m" name="Little Pinocchio" number="5." stars="" id="8" fa="M.Perchard, J.Clarke, 1998.">An interesting excursion up the blank face to the R of Fionn McCool and about 20m L of The Sapphire Rose. An intimidating bolting dilemma on lead, but a pleasant enough second now, though don't overestimate the soundness of the rock nor the potential for good air time.
1. 25m. Climb the pedestal.
2. 35m. Blast straight up the blank wall to the leftward rising crack-line.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="26" length="185m" name="Bisso of Orange" number="6." stars="***" id="9" fa="Marc Tierney, Michael Fox, Kim Robinson, Feb 2006.">Between Fionn McCool and Sapphire Rose is a line of BRs that breaches the headwall at the top. The establishment of this route involved hardwork from several parties over a number of years. The route is fully bolted so it’s really a case of follow your nose and belay at the double bolts. Excellent sustained climbing on good rock.
1. 25m 16. six BRs.
2. 30m 22. ten BRs.
3. 30m 22. ten BRs.
4. 35m 24. twelve BRs.
5. 25m 26. ten BRs (maybe 22,M1).
6. 35m 21. twelve BRs.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="22" length="95m" name="The Sapphire Rose" number="7." stars="***" id="10" fa="S.Edwards, S.Eberhard, 1994.">A classic modern route of sustained quality and consistency. The route ascends the blank looking face in the middle of the cliff, between Finn McCool and Finn Crisp. Rack: seventeen quick-draws and two ropes.
1. 35m 22. Sixteen bolts and chain. Ascend the juggy wall, pull through the roof and then straight up to a good resting spot. Continue up the wall above to the L of a raising right diagonal. Traverse spectacularly R to belay on a small ledge. (sustained).
2. 15m 21. Five bolts and chain. Traverse delicately L and then straight up the diagonal lies to the ledge and chain belay.
3. 28m 21. Ten bolts and chain. Climb the superb face above to belay below the final head-wall. Steep slab climbing at its best!</climb><climb extra="" grade="21" length="270m" name="Padraic Pearse" number="8." stars="*" id="11" fa="R.McMahon, B.Maddison, 1980 (alt).">Climb the front face of the ramp and from the top climb up overhanging leftwards corner. When they finish, climb through the overlap (crux) and up face to the R, joining Finn Crisp on the large ledge with a tree. Continue up Finn Crisp to pass the head-wall.</climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="200m" name="Finn Crisp" number="9." stars="**" id="12" fa="J.Friend, W.Stevens, 1976.">Starts at the huge grassy, R- leading ramp. May not as of yet had a second ascent in its entirety. Scramble up the ramp and from the top move up and R on the face. Follows the lichen streaked nose of rock up the blank face left of MacDonagh.</climb><text id="26" class="heading3">Bare Rock Right</text><image noPrint="false" src="bareRockRight2.jpg" width="" id="13"/><climb extra="" grade="17" length="199m" name="MacDonagh" number="10." stars="***" id="14" fa="R.McMahon and P.Jackson, 1969. 1b) R.McMahon and E. Mallinson. ">A fine route following the crack line L of the massive roof on the cliff's RH end. It has three variant starts on the lichenous pillar below the line of the climb (L, middle and R) with the LH one the best.
1. 58m 12. At the bottom of the gully on the L side of the pillar, start to the R behind the trees where a subsiduary slab meets the face and climb the excellent crack/corner. At the top of the crack, traverse a metre or so R and climb the wall to belay.
2. 37m 16. From the L side of the top of the pillar move up the R side of a 3m high block, then step down L into the crack. Follow the crack to belay where it narrows.
3. 37m 12. Up the fantastic crack in a shallow corner to below the roofs. Move R to where a crack splits the overhang at its narrowest and belay.
4. 30m 17. Up and around the overhang on jams (crux) and continue up the side of the very large flake to belay on its top.
5. 37m 12. Move a metre L then up the slab to the top. A fine pitch, unusual for dolerite. Finish up easy but loose ground above.
(Editor's note: there's a lot of poxy old choss heaps in the state which get described as "fine routes"; this is, however, a genuinely pleasant and interesting climb).</climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="85m" name="MacDonagh Variant Finish" number="11." stars="" id="15" fa="Pete Steane, Doug Fife, Gerry Narkowicz, 1983.">1. 40m. From the top of pitch 3 climb the corner and ramp up L
2. 45m. Move R up bulge (no pro), and finish up last pitch of Finn Crisp.</climb><climb extra="" grade="A2+" length="140m" name="Hardly Worth the Effort" number="" stars="" id="16" fa="G.Phillips, S.Harper, May 1997.">1. As for MacDonagh to "obvious" ledge.
2. Crank free straight out of belay up slab to "obvious" ledge under roof. Aid and free climb onto the ledge. Aid up to carrot. Aid through crack (two fixed wires). Bat hook past second carrot up the crack in the slab.
3. Do a massive traverse rightwards to climb behind the arête. Free climb rightwards under roof until triple carrot (?) belay.
4. Aid out L through roof crack. Traverse rightwards until double bolt belay.
Rack: Double sets of cams and wires, assorted pins (mostly knife blades), two hooks.
Three double rope abseils reach back to the ground. In his write up for the CCT Garry said the route was "Hardly worth the effort"; he might be wrong (if you can follow his route description!). The route name was not supplied so the one above is interim.</climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="180m" name="Conan MacMorna" number="12." stars="**" id="17" fa="R.McMahon, B.Maddison, 1980.">Starts: Two thirds of the way up the R side of the mossy pillar.
1. Climb up the R side of mossy pillar (dirty). At two-thirds height belay on a block at the same level as the traverse.
2. Hand traverse R to base of a rising diagonal crack. This is a fine traverse in the same league as the one on Skink, Mt Arapiles.
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