- CCT Public Page
- [CCT Members Area]
Page History
Guide |
---|
<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> <guide> <text class="heading1" new="false"<header numberaccess="null.">Sow Spur</text><text class="Discussion" new="false" number="null.">About 500m north from the summit of Mt. Dove, and to the east of Dove Creek, is a prominent bulge of sweeping granite slab called Sow Spur. Park to the Coles Bay side of where the road crosses Dove Creek and walk straight to the cliff. If you're lucky you'll find a cairned route you'll arrive in about 25 minutes. You can descend from each end of the cliff, or use the gully above Porked, or downclimb the obvious vegetated line just right of Durham at about grade 6Park to the Coles Bay side of where the road crosses Dove Creek and walk straight to the cliff. If you're lucky you'll find a cairned route you'll arrive in about 25 minutes. You can descend from each end of the cliff, or use the gully above Porked, or downclimb the obvious vegetated line just right of Durham at about grade 6. The cliff is up to 60m high and faces due west." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="About 500m north from the summit of Mt. Dove, and to the east of Dove Creek, is a prominent bulge of sweeping granite slab called Sow Spur. The cliff is up to 60m high and faces due west.</text><image , and has some quite good slab new="false" noPrint="false" number="nullclimbs. Windy Hill is the cliff just below the summit of Mt Dove." srcname="coles bay sow spur.pngMt Dove" widthnew="false">null</image><climb graderock="Solo)" length="8" name="The Trotter (Easy Solo" number=""Slabby pink and grey granite, up to 60m" starssun="**Afternoon sun"> This line is the obvious crack splitting the pillar of Sow Spur. The way off is to downclimb it. M.McHugh, Robert McMahon C.Viney 1967?</climb><climb walk="25-50 min"></header> <text class="heading1" new="false" gradenumber="17null." length="120m" name="Do As You Swill" number=">Sow Spur</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" starsnumber="null.">Another psychodrama by the master. At the lowest point of Sow Spur, at a water streak where the track first meets the cliff. 1. 60m Climb the water streak, heading right when it does. When it disappears, continue up and rightwards, heading for a belay at the foot of a corner directly below a break in the wall above. 2. 25m Climb the corner then up to the roof. Through this, then up to the slab to belay. 3. 35m Step up onto slab and place a runner or two in the short crack. Move up and rightwards towards crack on the righthand edge. Climb to top. Joe Friend 1974.</climb><climb src="coles bay sow spur.png" width="">null</image><climb extra="" grade="" length="8" name="The Trotter" new="false" number="" stars="**" value="This line is the obvious crack splitting the pillar of Sow Spur. The way off is to downclimb it - its an easy solo. M.McHugh, Robert McMahon C.Viney 1967?">This line is the obvious crack splitting the pillar of Sow Spur. The way off is to downclimb it - its an easy solo. M.McHugh, Robert McMahon C.Viney 1967?</climb><climb extra="" grade="2217" length="40m120m" name="HouseDo As OfYou StrawSwill" new="false" number number="" stars="">Increased>Another trafficpsychodrama wouldby earnthe itmaster. aAt star.the Takeslowest thepoint lineof upSow theSpur, steepat slaba 3mwater leftstreak ofwhere the Crack of Pork. Tenuous and sustained slab climbing, has your toes screaming for respite and your mind on full alert due to loose chrystals underfoot . Start below COP and up the water worn groove below the main crack of COP for 3m. Traverse left to a bolt and follow the bolt line up the wall to the top, a crux at every clip as you wait for your feet to peel off. The second bolt needs a wire or a prebent hanger, and the top section is a wee bit run out. E. Peacock C. Reed Jan 91 track first meets the cliff. 1. 60m Climb the water streak, heading right when it does. When it disappears, continue up and rightwards, heading for a belay at the foot of a corner directly below a break in the wall above. 2. 25m Climb the corner then up to the roof. Through this, then up to the slab to belay. 3. 35m Step up onto slab and place a runner or two in the short crack. Move up and rightwards towards crack on the righthand edge. Climb to top. Joe Friend 1974.</climb><climb extra="" grade="1522" length="100m40m" name="The CrackHouse Of PorkStraw" number new="false" number="" stars="*">Move up the hill from">Increased traffic would earn it a star. Takes the Trotterline pillar toup the right.steep Afterslab a3m largeleft greyof facethe twoCrack rampsof appearPork. goingTenuous upand tosustained theslab right.climbing, Ascendhas slabsyour totoes thescreaming higherfor onerespite and ascendyour 30mind metreson soloingfull thealert scrubdue orto slabsloose chrystals tounderfoot the. footStart ofbelow aCOP wideand crackup inthe awater cornerworn overhanginggroove tobelow the left.main Prettycrack worthless.of 1.COP 20mfor Layback3m. upTraverse corner, cross left intoto maina linebolt and ascendfollow cornerthe tobolt tree.line Alternativelyup (andthe better)wall climbto the top, laybacka justcrux rightat ofevery theclip mainas lineyou (grade 16). 2. 15m Ascend chimneywait for your feet to bushpeel belayoff. 3.The 33msecond Tobolt theneeds righta upwire wideor twina cracksprebent pasthanger, overhangand tothe belay.top 4.section 32mis Continuea easilywee tobit therun theout. topE. RobertPeacock McMahonC. PeterReed JacksonJan Apr 7191.</climb><climb extra="" grade="1915" length="95m100m" name="PourquoiThe Crack Of Pork" newnumber="false" numberstars="*" >Move up the hill from the Trotter stars="*">A testpiece from way back. Topillar to the right. ofAfter thea Cracklarge ofgrey Porkface istwo aramps pinnacle.appear Start on the facegoing up to the right. 1. 15m Up slab Ascend slabs to the higher one and thinascend corner30 crackmetres tosoloing the ledge.scrub 2.or 35mslabs Moveto slightlythe leftfoot andof upa overwide bulgecrack (originallyin aided)a andcorner continueoverhanging upto tothe overlapleft. Pretty Climbworthless. the1. face20m leftLayback ofup thecorner, maincross crackleft tointo amain smallline ledgeand highascend oncorner theto lefttree. 3.Alternatively 23m(and Continuebetter) upclimb slabthe onlayback obviousjust lineright of holdsthe tomain belayline in the Crack of Pork(grade 16). 2. 15m Ascend chimney to bush belay. 3. 33m To the right up wide twin cracks past overhang to belay. 4. 23m32m Continue easily to the the top. M.McHugh, R.Robert McMahon P.Peter Jackson, MayApr 71.</climb><climb extra="" grade="1519" length="45m95m" name="The Pork Of DoomPourquoi" numbernew="false" starsnumber=""> Revolting and potentially dangerous. The obvious gully on the opposite side of the great flake stars="*">A testpiece from way back. To the right of the Crack of Pork is a pinnacle. UpStart corneron tothe tree,face continueto inthe right. hand line1. Robert15m McMahonUp M.McHughslab May 71</climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="45m" name="Pigs Might Fly" new="false" number="" stars="*">A pair of wings for the crux moves might be useful too. Start at the arete immediately right of the Pork of Doom. Climb the arete, up the thin face past 3 bolts and up an easier slab above past another bolt. A. Adams G. Cooper, Jan 91.</climb><climb and thin corner crack to the ledge. 2. 35m Move slightly left and up over bulge (originally aided) and continue up to overlap. Climb the face left of the main crack to a small ledge high on the left. 3. 23m Continue up slab on obvious line of holds to belay in the Crack of Pork. 4. 23m Continue to the top. M.McHugh, R. McMahon P. Jackson, May 71.</climb><climb extra="" grade="2015" length="42m45m" name="ItThe Ain't Kosher" new="falsePork Of Doom" number="" stars="***">It> probablyRevolting ain'tand legalpotentially either!dangerous. The Arguablyobvious onegully ofon the bestopposite routesside onof Sowthe Spur.great Harderflake ifof youthe areCrack short, and easier if you are long. 15m left of Pearler, at the steep arete. Climb the crack, then the crux, then the arete, then the face above past a bolt. 2.5 Friend essential high up. 1st half: A. Adams, P. Steane G. Cooper Feb 87. 2nd half: D. Fife P.Cullen Dec 88of Pork. Up corner to tree, continue in right hand line. Robert McMahon M.McHugh May 71</climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="45m" name="Pigs Might Fly" new="false" number="" stars="*">A pair of wings for the crux moves might be useful too. Start at the arete immediately right of the Pork of Doom. Climb the arete, up the thin face past 3 bolts and up an easier slab above past another bolt. A. Adams G. Cooper, Jan 91.</climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="42m" name="It Ain't Kosher" new="false" number="" stars="***">It probably ain't legal either! Arguably one of the best routes on Sow Spur. Harder if you are short, and easier if you are long. 15m left of Pearler, at the steep arete. Climb the crack, then the crux, then the arete, then the face above past a bolt. 2.5 Friend essential high up. 1st half: A. Adams, P. Steane G. Cooper Feb 87. 2nd half: D. Fife P.Cullen Dec 88.</climb><climb extra="" grade="15" length="55m" name="Pearler" new="false" number="" stars="**">A little gem that is a tad run-out in parts. Go right past steep section to prominent layback flake. 1. 15m Up short wall to flake and up this to a ledge. 2. 33m Up left ridge to bollard spike then easily up to overhangs. Left to chimney crack then up crack to belay where possible. 3. 7m Up chimney to top. M. McHugh, P. Jackson R. McMahon May 71.</climb><climb extra="" grade="1519" length="55m" name="PearlerBoaring" new="false" number="" stars="**">A>Sparse littlepro gembut thatgood. isA a tad run-out in parts. Gofew metres right past steep section to prominent layback flakeof Pearler. 1. 15m45m Up shortright wallto toa flake stance and upface thismoves to a ledge. 2slight dish crack. 33mLeft Upto leftflake ridgesystem toand bollardup spikeleft thento easilybase upof towide overhangscrack. LeftUp to chimneyflake crack then uptrend crackleft to belaygood where possibleholds. 32. 7m10m Up right on chimneyslab towith top.little Mprotection. McHugh, PD. JacksonFife RN. McMahonWard, MayNov 7182.</climb><climb extra="" grade="1922" length="55m75m" name="BoaringSilk Purse" new="false" number="" stars="*">Sparse>Ascends prothe butsteep good.slab A few metres right of Pearler. 1. 45m Uproughly 7m right toof aBoaring. flake1. stance50m andFollow facethe movesbolts to athe slightlarge dish crackledge. LeftTake tosome flakesmall systemwires andor upa leftcam tofor basedown oflow wideand crack.a Up0 flakequadcam crackfor then trend left to good holdshigher up. 2. 10m25m Up the rightslab onmore slabeasily withto littlethe protectiontop. D. Fife N. Ward, Nov 82Garn Cooper Sam Edwards (alt.), Jan 95.</climb><climb extra="" grade="2215" length="75m25m" name="Silk PursePorked" new="false" number="" stars="*">Ascends>Nothing beats the smell steepof slabcooked roughlybacon. 7m20m right of Boaring. 1. 50m Follow the bolts to the large ledge. Take some small wires or a cam for down low and a 0 quadcam for higher up. 2. 25m Up the slab more easily to the top., below a slight line up a short convoluted wall. Climb the wall. Al Adams Garn Cooper Sam Edwards (alt.), Jan 95Dec 86.</climb><climb grade="20" extralength="60m" gradename="15Pigs In Space" lengthnumber="25m" name="Porked" new="false" number="" stars="">Nothing beats the smell of cooked bacon. 20m right of Boaring, below a slight line up a short convoluted wall. Climb the wall. Al Adams Garn Cooper Dec 86 stars="">Not well protected. Start below a tree 12m left of Stylised. 1. 35m Straight up to flake, up this then rightwards to horizontal break (crux). Easily up to belay on ledge. 2. 25m Straight up the slab above the chockstone (crux), then up the crack on left of wall (obvious line on wall toproped at 22. No runners). M.Sands D.Jenkins Jan 89.</climb><climb extra="" grade="2017" length="60m65m" name="Stylised" new="Pigs In Space""false" number="" stars="">Not well protected. Start below a tree 12m left of Stylised. 1. 35m Straight up to flake, up this then rightwards to horizontal break (crux). Easily up to belay on ledge. 2. 25m Straight up the slab above the chockstone (crux), then up the crack on left of wall (obvious line on wall toproped at 22. No runners). M.Sands D.Jenkins Jan 89.<>Start 40m right of Boaring. Obvious crack line up middle of slabs 20m left of Durham. 1. 45m Straight up crack past small roof to belay on huge boulder out left. 2. 20m Move back right to crack, then up to roof and exit out right. L. Closs, J. Friend R. McMahon, 1974.</climb><climb grade="20" length="6m" name="Stylised Direct Finish" number="" stars=""> Through the roof. D.Jenkins, M.Sands, R.Appel, R.Hyslop Jan 89</climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="65m50m" name="StylisedDive Between The Whirling Blades" new="false" number="" stars="*">Start 40m right of Boaring. Obvious crack line >Powers up middlethe ofwall slabsbetween 20m leftStylised ofand Durham Direct. 1.Optional 45mmantel Straightto upgain crackbig pastledge, smallotherwise roofstart tooff belaythe onbig hugeledge boulder3m outright left.of 2Stylised. 20mStay Moveroughly back3m right toof Stylised for 35m, until crack fuses, then move upright to next RP roofcrack and exitascend outto rightbelay. L.Garn Closs,Cooper J.Al FriendAdams R. McMahon, 1974Dec 86.</climb><climb extra="" grade="2017" length="6m45m" name="StylisedDurham Direct Finish" number="" starsnew="false"> Throughnumber="" the roof. D.Jenkins, M.Sands, R.Appel, R.Hyslop Jan 89</climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="50m" name="Dive Between The Whirling Blades" new="false" number="" stars="*">Powers up the wall between Stylised and Durham Direct. Optional mantel to gain big ledge, otherwise start off the big ledge 3m right of Stylised. Stay roughly 3m right of Stylised for 35m, until crack fuses, then move right to next RP crack and ascend to belay. Garn Cooper Al Adams Dec stars="*">An obvious thin line found directly below the big block at the end of the first pitch of Durham. 1. 25m Up short wall to wide ledge. Up to another ledge and the obvious crack which gets progressively thinner. Follow this to belay on the overlap above the small banksia. 2. 25m Continue up to the big block and climb the slab to its left. Continue up to the terrace. P. Jackson N. Duhig, Apr 86.</climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="45m55m" name="Durham Direct" new="false" number="" stars="*">An>A boomer obviousof thina line foundand directlygood belowfun. theStart big60 blockmetres atright theof end ofBoaring thebelow firstleft pitchtrending ofstepped Durhamroofs. 1. 25m30m Up short walleasily to widehorizontal ledgecrack. Up to another ledgeLayback and theundercling obviousleft crack which gets progressively thinneracross this. FollowUp thisthin tocorner belay(crux) onthen theleft overlapagain aboveto thehanging small banksiabelay. 2. 25m ContinueMove upleft, tothen theup big blockcrack and climb the slab to its left. Continue up to the terrace. P. top. Peter Jackson NM.McHugh Duhig, Apr 86.<Dec 71</climb><climb grade="1716" length="55m85m" name="DurhamBlack Pudding" number="" stars="*">A boomer of a line and good fun. Start 60 metres >Start 50m right of Durham Boaringat belowsmall leftcorner trendingon steppedwaterwashed roofswall. 1. 30m Up easily to horizontal crack. Layback and undercling left across this. Up thin corner (crux) then left again to hanging belay 45m Straight up corner to belay above small roof. 2. 25m Move left, then up crack and slab40m Continue to top. PeterI.Lewis JacksonKim M.McHughCarrigan DecJan 71<75.</climb><climb grade="1618" length="85m50m" name="Black Pudding" Captain Goodvibes (Pig Of Steel)" number="" stars="">Start 50m right of Durham at small corner on waterwashed wall. 1. 45m Straight up corner to belay above small roof. 2. 40m Continue to top. I.Lewis Kim Carrigan Jan 75.</climb><climb grade="18" length="50m" name="Captain Goodvibes (Pig Of Steel)" number="" stars="**"> A first class climb, the top section is runout. Start 10 metres right of Black Pudding. Move up undercling layback flake until crack vanishes. Head up to overlap passing several good wire placements not visible from the ground. Turn the overlap easily and run it out to the next horizontal. Continue in this manner until you run out of rope and reach the top. Well protected up to the overlap, but run out and scarey above. Two rap bolts exist some 20m left of the finish of this climb. B.Kennedy, et.al. Jan 77<**"> A first class climb, the top section is runout. Start 10 metres right of Black Pudding. Move up undercling layback flake until crack vanishes. Head up to overlap passing several good wire placements not visible from the ground. Turn the overlap easily and run it out to the next horizontal. Continue in this manner until you run out of rope and reach the top. Well protected up to the overlap, but run out and scarey above. Two rap bolts exist some 20m left of the finish of this climb. B.Kennedy, et.al. Jan 77</climb><climb grade="17" length="50m" name="Slab Of Pork (A.K.A. My Fair Lady)" number="" stars=""> Start 5 metres right of the Pig of Steel. Up slab following intermittent thin crack to weakness in overlap at 30 metres. Surmount and continue to top. I.Lewis Kim Carrigan Jan 75</climb><climb grade="1714" length="50m" name="Slab Of Pork (A.K.A. My Fair Lady) name="Piggies" number="" stars=""> StartAbout 5 metres40m right of Black thePudding Pigup ofSow SteelSpur. Up slab following intermittent thin crack to weakness in overlap at 30 metres. Surmount and continue to top. I.Lewis Kim Carrigan Jan 75</climb><climb the thin corner running through two small roofs on the horizon. Protection good on the hard sections though poorer on those easier. Pleasant tree belay on right of large blocks. Exit right. C.(Ditto)Rathbone Phil Bigg Nov 76</climb><climb extra="" grade="149" length="50m65m" name="PiggiesOink" numbernew="false" starsnumber=""> About 40m right of Black Pudding up Sow Spur. Up stars="">Takes the thinslab cornerto runningthe throughright twoof smallthe roofs on the horizonPiggies corner. ProtectionStart goodJust onnear thePiggies. hard1. sections35m thoughFollow poorera online thoseof easier. Pleasant tree belay on rightobvious holds up on to a system of largeledges blocks.at Exitabout right8m. C.(Ditto)Rathbone Phil Bigg Nov 76</climb><climb extra="" grade="9" length="65m" name="Oink" new="false" number="" stars="">Takes the slab to the right of the Piggies corner. Start Just near Piggies. 1. 35m Follow a line of obvious holds up on to a system of ledges at about 8m. Move left for a few feet, then diagonally right around a smooth section of slab. At about 20m move right beneath a hanging corner, and climb onto a broken surfaced slab which overlies the smoother slabs on its left. Continue up to belay. 2. 30m Directly to top. G.Kowalik, R.Williams F.Dutton Oct 71</climb><climbMove left for a few feet, then diagonally right around a smooth section of slab. At about 20m move right beneath a hanging corner, and climb onto a broken surfaced slab which overlies the smoother slabs on its left. Continue up to belay. 2. 30m Directly to top. G.Kowalik, R.Williams F.Dutton Oct 71</climb><climb extra="" grade="21" length="10m" name="Time Tide Waits For No Man" new="false" number="" stars="***">Climbs the west face of the perched boulder on the very top of Sow Spur, via 3 glued hangerless bolts (no lower-offs). Nick Hancock Sep 01</climb><text extraclass="heading3" gradenew="21false" lengthnumber="10mnull.">Piglets</text><text nameclass="Time Tide Waits For No Mantext" new="false" number="" stars="***">Climbs the west face of the perched boulder on the very top of Sow Spur, via 3 glued hangerless bolts (no lower-offs). Nick Hancock Sep 01</climb><textnull.">Two short but worthwhile climbs on a small cliff (named "Piglets") above Sow Spur. Traverse east from the very top of Sow Spur above 'Stylised' along to a little crag on the left, which looks about ten metres high from the base.</text><climb classextra="" grade="heading316" newlength="false20m" numbername="null.">Piglets</text><textThis Little Piggy" classnew="textfalse" newnumber="false" numberstars="null.">Two short but worthwhile climbs on a small cliff (named “Piglets”) above Sow Spur. Traverse east">Left of an easy line in the middle of the cliff. Climb the wall and thin crack to belay back from the veryedge topabove ofan Soweasy Spurslab abovehidden ‘Stylised’from alongthe tobottom. aPositive littleholds cragand ongood thepro. left,A whichneat lookslittle aboutroute. ten metresAlan highWilliams, fromPhil the baseRobinson, 1/8/99.</text><climbclimb><climb extra="" grade="1618" length="20m" name="ThisPigtail Little PiggySoup" new="false" new="false" number="" stars="">Left>Twin ofcracks ana easyfew linemetres inleft the middle of the cliff. Climb the wall and thin crack to belay back from the edge above an easy slab hidden from the bottom. Positive holds and good pro. A neat little routeof "This Little Piggy". Up right-hand crack before moving awkwardly left to a small sloping ledge next to left-hand crack. Follow this crack to the top. Alan Williams, Phil Robinson, 1/8/99. </climb><climbclimb><text extraclass="heading3" grade="18" length="20m" name="Pigtail Soup" new="false>Lizard Rocks</text><text class="Discussion" numbernew="false" starsnumber="null.">Twin>In cracksthe agully fewbetween metresMt. leftAmos ofand “This Little Piggy”Mt. Dove. Up right-hand crack before moving awkwardly left to a small sloping ledge next to left-hand crack. Follow this crack to the top. Alan Williams, Phil Robinson, 1/8/99. </climb><text class="heading3">Lizard Rocks</text><text class="Discussion" new="false" number="null.">In the gully between Mt. Amos and Mt. Dove. </text><climb</text><climb grade="15" length="25m" name="Lizard" number="" stars="">Towards the right hand end of a grey cracked wall below a big ledge. 1. 15m. Up the wall on big holds. 2. 10m. Move to the right end of the ledge and swing up onto arete (crux) to the top. I.Lewis Peter Jackson Aug 72</climb><climb grade="1513" length="25m20m" name="LizardGizzard" number="" stars="">Towards> To the right hand end of a grey cracked wall belowcentre is a big ledge. 1. 15m. Upbay on the wallleft onof bigwhich holds.is 2.a 10m.very Movedeep tochimney thewhich rightcan endbe ofwalked thethrough. ledgeClimb andup swingthe upfront ontoof aretethe (crux)chimney to the top. Poor protection. IL.LewisWood Peter Jackson Aug 72<1976</climb><climb grade="1318" length="20m25m" name="GizzardMelon" number="" stars=""> To the right stars=""> Where the cliff starts to run back up the hill to the left of centre is a large smooth wall with a sloping powerful line blocked at the base by a big bay onsmall overhanging corner. Climb the face left ofand whichstep isright aabove verythe deepcorner chimneyinto whichthe canmain becrack walkedline. through.Follow Climbthis upto the front of the chimney to the top. Poor protection. L.Woodroof. Step left and up (crux) to bottomless chimney finish. Abseil off tree. Doug Fife Peter Jackson 1976<1980</climb><climb grade="1822" length="25m27m" name="Glucojel" number="Melon" number="" stars=""> Where the cliff starts to run back up the hill to the left of centre is a large smooth wall with a sloping powerful line blocked at the base by a small overhanging corner. Climb the face left and step right above the corner into the main crack line. Follow this to the roof. Step left and up (crux) to bottomless chimney finish. Abseil off tree. Doug Fife Peter Jackson 1980</climb><climb" stars=""> About 5m to the right of Melon is a smooth, steep wall with a crack reaching about 5m up. Climb this to its end, then stretch a long way right to the base of a second crack (crux). Lay up this until the cliff stops overhanging, then continue up the easy angled off-width. Marcel Jackson June 1994</climb><text class="Discussion">Across the valley to the west of Lizard Rocks is an obvious ampitheatre of overhanging streaked rock with slabs to the right. These are easily visible from Lizard Rocks and are about 300m below the cliffs of Mt. Amos. The following climbs are situated on the slabs.</text><climb grade="2216" length="27m50m" name="GlucojelSternum" number="" stars=""> About 5m to the rightleft of MelonSpitoon is a smooth, steep wall with a crack reaching about 5m up. Climb this to its end, then stretch a long way right to the base of a second crack (crux). Lay up this until the cliff stops overhanging, then continue up thean interesting slab with a short easy angled off-width. Marcel Jackson June 1994</climb><text class="Discussion">Across the valley corner at its base. Climb this and then continue up the many parallel ribs of aplite to the westtop. ofMarcel LizardPeter RocksJackson is an obvious ampitheatre of overhanging streaked rock with slabs to the right. These are easily visible from Lizard Rocks and are about 300m below the cliffs of Mt. Amos. The following climbs are situated on the slabs.</text><climbJune 1994</climb><climb grade="14" length="50m" name="Spitoon" number="" stars=""> Takes the groove of water polished aplite in the middle of the face. Peter Jackson N.Ward 1984</climb><climb grade="1615" length="50m48m" name="SternumNecrotising Fasciitis" number="" stars=""> About 5m left of Spitoon This is anthe interestingblack slab with avanishing shortaplite easyseam angledabout corner at its base. Climb this and then continue up the many parallel ribs of aplite to the top5m to the right of Spitoon. Pleasant and fairly easy slab climbing, though extremely runout at times. Marcel Peter Jackson June 1994</climb><climbclimb> <text gradeclass="14heading1" lengthnew="50m" name="Spitoon" number=""false" starsnumber="null."> Takes the groove of water polished aplite in the middle of the face. Peter Jackson N.Ward 1984</climb><climb grade="15" length="48m" name="Necrotising Fasciitis" number="" stars=""> This is the black slab with vanishing aplite seam about 5m to the right of Spitoon. Pleasant and fairly easy slab climbing, though extremely runout at times. Marcel Peter Jackson June 1994</climb> <text >Windy Hill</text><text class="Discussion">This is the cliff just below the summit of Mt. Dove. It can be seen from Coles Bay. It has a North Westerly aspect and is often windy. To get there it is easiest to go via Sow Spur as there is a track of sorts this way. This takes about 50 minutes. The climbs are worthwhile.</text><climb extra="" classgrade="heading122" newlength="false20m" numbername="null.">Windy Hill</text><text class="Discussion">This is the cliff just below the summit of Mt. Dove. It can be seen from Coles Bay. It has a North Westerly aspect and is often windy. To get there it is easiest to go via Sow Spur as there is a track of sorts this way. This takes about 50 minutes. The climbs are worthwhile.</text><climb grade="22" length="20m" name="Feel The Pain - As Baxter's Mum Straps It On" number="" stars=""> YouFeel The Pain - As Baxter's Mum Straps It On" new="false" number="" stars="" value="You'll wish you were being chased around by a kinky freind when your hands feel the needle like granite crystals on this route. The first crack left of the arete (Out and Up) with a tree at about 1/3 height. Up easily to the sloping ledge at 3m, move right and then back left to turn the bulge and reach the tree. Follow the crack more easily to the top. Andrew Bissett Nick Hancock, Aug 01.">You'll wish you were being chased around by a kinky freind when your hands feel the needle like granite crystals on this route. The first crack left of the arete (Out and Up) with a tree at about 1 /3 height. Up easily to the sloping ledge at 3m, move right and then back left to turn the bulge and reach the tree. Follow the crack more easily to the top. Andrew Bissett Nick Hancock, Aug 01.</climb><climb grade="16" length="20m" name="Out And Up" number="" stars=""> Not so sporty. Poorly protected with suspect holds, but a great game if you've the stomach for it. Start at the left hand arete of the small cliff at the grey band. Climb up to the arete and the obvious hold. Cross over onto right hand face and follow the line of holds until you can go up the chimney.</climb><climb grade="24" length="30m" name="Swearin In Bavarian" number="" stars="***"> Between Out and Up and Blockheads is an awesome wall, with an open groove trending slightly rightwards. A tricky start leads to easier climbing into a steep groove. Undercling right and up, to a thin move right into a runnel. 3 U-bolts and good wires. N.Hancock K.Lawton Mar 02</climb><climb grade="16" length="25m" name="Blockheads" number="" stars=""> Move right from the above, past several lines and a large curving corner with a deep offwidth. There are some depressions and disconnected cracks in the face to the right, and then a prominent curving corner with a rough crack. Doug Fife N.Ward Apr 81</climb><climb grade="18" length="25m" name="Himmel, Arsch Und Wolkenbruch" number="" stars=""> Much better than it looks. Start 2m right of Blockheads. The dead straight apparent offwidth. Climb the crack to finish near Indigo. G.Cooper Peter Steane Nov 86</climb><climb grade="19" length="27m" name="Indigo" number="" stars=""> Sustained, strenuous and airy. The second crack right of Blockheads. N.Duhig Peter Jackson Apr 86</climb><climb grade="14" length="55m" name="Screw Gate Zebra" number="" stars="">This line is a big diagonal starting just right of the turret. 1. 50m Diagonally right up to the base of a wide crack. Continue up line to horizontal break (crux) and continue to the start of a ramp leading right. Belay at end. 2. 5m Climb overhanging flake to the left and finish. Robert McMahon, M.McHugh Peter Jackson 1970</climb><climb grade="18" length="65m" name="Mr. Damage" number="" stars="">Entertaining. Crack on the left hand side of wall right of Screw Gate Zebra. 1. 45m Offwidth but mainly face climbing, right at thin overhang to a good stance. Continue up right, then left under flake. Belay on flake. 2. 20m Up and trend right to ledge. Continue across right under horizontal line then up small depression to large ledge. Doug Fife N.Ward Feb 82</climb><climb grade="18" length="65m" name="Fine Line" number="" stars="">Don't leave without doing this gem. In the centre of the face are 2 cracks. This is the left one. 1. 45m Climb blocks and crack to hole, continue up crack, face climb when crack closes. Belay at base of corner. 2. 20m As for Mr Damage. Doug Fife N.Ward Feb 82</climb><climb grade="16" length="70m" name="Enkeffalin" number="" stars="">Takes wall right of Fine Line. Little protection. 1. 30m Start as for Fine Line, go right below hole, then up face; right up ramp to belay. 2. 40m Traverse right, then up slab. Doug Fife N.Ward Apr 81</climb><climb grade="17" length="80m" name="Spasiba Bolshoi" number="" stars="">Runout. Has crux in common with Enkeffalin. The short crack a few metres right of Enkeffalin. 1. 30m Up crack, then step right and up over flake to 4m depression in face. Step out left of depression then straight up to strong diagonal and traverse along this to belay. 2. 50m Traverse left to surmount bulge to next diagonal ramp. Right along this and up steeper rock to a dead tree. Straight up the rock behind tree to belay. Garn Cooper Al Adams Mar 86</climb><climb grade="17" length="75m" name="Snus Pozjalujsta" number="" stars="">A fine route. Start at the 4m corner crack which forms the left side of a large flake at the base of the right hand end of the cliff. 1. 30m Zoom straight up the water streak, stepping left after the small overlap at about 20m for a short distance, to the obvious right slanting diagonal. 2. 45m Climb the diagonal until a line of jugs heads out left. Along these and up the headwall. Alternatively a short crack can be climbed from the diagonal which eliminates the traverse. O.Nykvist Pete Steane Mar 8</climb> </guide> |
Overview
Content Tools