Page History

<?xml<guide version="1.02" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide><header
        > 
  <header access="From the Sisters Beach township drive eastwards along the dirt road that runs parallel to the beach. This ends after about 1.5 km at a parking area (GPS SIS000). Start by following the signposted track for about 100m, then bear off to the L where a rough track leads around towards the cliffs (about 500m). The first cliff, Fly Buttress, faces out to sea while Corruption Wall, out of sight on the other side of the spur is running down to Breakneck Point, is best reached via a small notch, the Keyhole, on the R about 50m  before Fly Buttress. Scramble through (with difficulty!) and bear RL and down to the end of the cliff.   &lt;br/>There is no legal camping at Sisters Beach although several possible sites exist. The camp ground at Boat Harbour is quite good but is about 10 km away."
        acknowledgement="by Roger Parkyn, originally published in Craglets 6. UpdatedUpdates by Tony McKenny and Chris Arvier, with acknowledgements to previous work by John Fisher."
        history history="Briefly, the history of climbing here began when locals Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Nick Williams and Tony McKenny cleaned up most of the traditional lines, with Deka demonstrating the art of flying from Super Fly in particular. This route is possibly one of the biggest adrenalin charges for its grade in the state and is a must do for every visitor. Other contributors included Mick Ling, Robert (Bird) Hamilton, Hobartian Sam Edwards and interstate visitor Robert Staszewski. In the early nineties John Fisher scruffed the scene and produced a series of steep, hard and 'interestingly' named sports climbs on Corruption Wall. Unfortunately the &lt;br/&gt;The anchors placed by John became badly corroded within a year of so of their placement and had to be replaced. LocalUnfortunately, Andrewthe Arnoldoriginal hasreplacement nowU fullybolts reboltedwere thenot climbsinstalled incorrectly question;which andled allto thesome climbs,incidents onof bothbolt cliffs,failure. nowAll havesuspect aU DBBbolts atwere theremoved top.in TheJan trad2018 routesand arethe stillsport thereclimbs ofwere course,fully althoughrebolted awith couplethe havesupport beenof retro-bolted (a trend that hopefully will not continue!)."
       the CCT. Many of the trad climbs previously had suspect anchors, these have been removed but not replaced yet (plenty of options for trad belays)." intro="The main cliffs at Sisters Beach at the east end of the Rocky Cape National Park are well worth visiting. They represent the most important climbing location is NW Tasmanian for locals in that area. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;The cliff area is small but the quality of the quartzite rock and routes is superb. There are two main cliffs, close together but quite different in character and in the style of climbing. The north facing Fly Buttress is short, solid and bristling with horizontal roofs, while the Corruption Wall on the other side of Breakneck Point is formed by steep or gently overhanging walls. The proximity to the sea does also mean that the smooth quartzite can get more than a little slippery, adding a further charge of excitement to the climbing. The nearby beach, however, is excellent - a good diversion from cranking when your tips are raw or your ego in danger of being compromised."
 The sport climbs were fully rebolted  namewith funding and advice from the CCT in January 2018.&lt;br/&gt;" name="Sisters Beach" new="false" rock="15m steep quartzite"
        sun="Mixed sun and shade" walk="10 min"></header><gps
            new id="true1"><point codecamping="SIS000"
            description="Sisters Beach - car park" easting="381013"
            height="0" northing="5469569" zone="55G"/></gps><image
        new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
        src="sisters beach map.png" width=""/><text class="heading2"
        new="false" number="null.">Carpark Buttress</text><text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">This crag is on the hillside above the carpark and to the R of the walking track.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="15m" name="Nose Route" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="*">Line just L of the nose of the buttress. Strenuous.  Nic Deka, Neale Smith, 29/4/81.</climb><text
        class="heading2" new="false"
        number="null.">Fly Buttress</text><text class="text" new="false"
        value="The topo basically says it all. Pretty much all the routes were done by Nic Deka in the late seventies. The only notable exceptions are R.Starzewski's ascent of Sunshine and S.Edwards's Wuss 'n Boots.">The topo basically says it all. Pretty much all the routes were done by Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Tony McKenny and Nick Williams in the late seventies. The notable exceptions are Robert Staszewski's ascent of Sunshine (23) and Sam Edwards' Wuss 'n' Boots (22). All climbs now have a DBB at the top, and there is a somewhat dodgy looking (but now superfluous) abseil chain above Superfly as well.</text><image
        new="false" noPrint="false" src="sister fly wall.jpg"
        width=""/><climb extra="" grade="16" length="" name="Fly Blown"
        new="false" number="1."
        stars="">Groove L of roof. Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Nick Williams.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="22" length="" name="Wuss 'n'  Boots" new="false"
        number="2."
        stars="*">Just to the R, through the roof. Sam Edwards.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="" name="March Fly" new="false"
        number="3."
        stars="*">Starts up Mortein then goes L. Dennis Kearnes 1992.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="" name="Mortein" new="false"
        number="4."
        stars="">Groove to roof, then L line. Nic Deka, Neale Smith.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="" name="Superfly (the Movie)"
        new="false" number="5."
        stars="***">Up the groove/crack below the middle of the big roof, then follow R line through roof. Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Nick Williams.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="" name="Try, Fly or Die" new="false"
        number="6."
        stars="*">Traverse R under roof. Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Nick Williams.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="23" length="" name="Sunshine" new="false"
        number="7."
        stars="**">Through roofs to R. Originally led on gear, but now sporting a couple of bolts on the first roof. Robert Stazsewski, Tony McKenny.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="19" length="" name="Pigs Can Fly" new="false"
        number="8."
        stars="">Next crack, going L at top and finishing beside Sunshine. Nick Williams and Tony McKenny (originally with one point of aid), FFA: Nic Deka, Neale Smith, 1980.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="8" length="" name="Fly Paper" new="false"
        number="9."
        stars="">Broken wall R of main cliff. Tony McKenny.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="7" length="" name="Fly Blows Aunt" new="false"
        number="10."
        stars="">Crack to the R of Uncle. Tony McKenny and Nick Williams.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="" length="7" name="Fly Blows Uncle" new="false"
        number="11."
        stars="">The dirty corner. Tony McKenny and Nick Williams.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="11" length="" name="Son of Superfly (Maggot)"
        new="false" number="12."
        stars="*">Crack. Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Nick Williams.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="12" length="" name="Midge" new="false"
        number="13."
        stars="">Short wall to the R and then over small overhang. Tony McKenny.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="" name="Fly Arete" new="false"
        number="14."
        stars="">Arête  and wall R of Midge. Neale Smith, Nick Williams.</climb><text
        class="heading3" new="false"
        number="null.">The Keyhole</text><text class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">To find The Keyhole … as you walk into the crag, Bass Strait is on your L (ie walking east).  You can approach Corruption Wall (Dogs Coif etc) by following a path with the rock on your R (Sunshine etc) and the sea on your L and going &quot;up and over&quot; to get to the cave.
Alternatively, when you approach the main block you can veer R and walk up to what is called the Keyhole.  It consists of a short ramp up to a large chock stone with a human-sized passage that lets you through to the east side of the crag.  From there you take a L  (keeping the rock face on your L) and a short walk back down to the overhanging midden cave (Dogs Coif again). There are two climbs on the R, just before you enter the Keyhole.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Battle on New Years Eve"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="*">The climb takes the obvious overhanging arête (approx 10m high) on the block to your R as you walk up the ramp to the Keyhole. Natural gear (take a variety of cams - the pro is surprisingly bomber). Andrew Chang, Andrew Arnold 
</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="21" length="10m" name="Gap Filler" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="*">Overhanging thin crack on RH wall of the gully, just before you scramble through the gap in the ridge to Corruption Wall. Subsequently retro-bolted by mistake by Andrew Chang and Andrew Arnold in 2005. Three bolts to DBB. Neale Smith, Mick Ling, Oct. 1982.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="19" length="" name="Bulging Balls" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">About 30m L of where you scramble through the gap in the ridge is a bulging roof with a triangular wall under it. Hand traverse along the triangular wall until able to pull over the bulge, then straight up the wall above. Nic Deka, Neale Smith, 17/4/82.</climb><text
        class="heading3" new="false"
        number="null.">Seaside Buttress</text><text class="text"
        new="false"
        number="null.">The small buttress in front of Fly Buttress by the sea, split by a deep gully. The climbs are on the steep walls either side.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="17" length=" " name="Ling's Wall" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">Wall L of gully. Tony McKenny, Mick Ling.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="12" length=" " name="Bird's Corner" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">Corner on west side of buttress. Robert Hamilton, Fred Dutton.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="14" length="" name="Right Hand Corner"
        new="false" number="" stars="">Mick Ling.</climb><climb extra=""
        grade="19" length=" " name="Staszewski's Crack" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">Crack splitting wall R of large gully and on the front of the buttress. Robert Staszewski, Tony McKenny 1981.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="15" length=" " name="Blow Job" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">On western face of buttress. Nic Deka, Bruce Cameron, Neale Smith.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="13" length=" " name="Hand Job" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">Next route R. Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Robert Hamilton 12/4/82.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="10" length=" " name="Easy Ramp Route"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">Easy ramp on RH side of buttress. Robert Hamilton, Nic Deka, Neale Smith 12/4/82.</climb><text
        class="heading2" new="false"
        number="null.">Corruption Wall</text><text class="text"
        new="false">This was briefly a centre for Tasmanian sport climbing (yeah, I know, doesn't say much does it?). The routes added by John Fisher are brilliant - and user friendly too. Fixed hangers are de rigueur and all  routes have rap anchors at the top. You can also walk off down a steep gully to the R (N) of the cliff, by &quot;A Butcher's Dog&quot;.</text><image
        new="false" noPrint="false" src="sisters corruption.jpg"
        width=""/><climb extra="" grade="14" length=""
        name="Carnal Knowledge" new="false" number=""
        stars="">From an ascending grassy ramp, follow a clean cut lay-back crack. Bear R at the top. Robert Hamilton.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="10"
        name="Fourplay">The chimney. Tony McKenny.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="24" length="" name="Roll on Responsibility"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="**">Sustained overhanging crack up wall to R of Fourplay. A local test piece. Nic Deka, Neale Smith 1987.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="24" length="20m" name="Sister Superior"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="**">Climb the steep wall just right of  Roll on Responsibility, on good holds. 4 bolts to DBB.
Nick Hancock and  Andrew Geeves.  Nov, 2006. 
</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="25" length=""
        name="The Purple Veined Junket Pumper" new="false" number=""
        stars="***"
        value="Start near The Winking Sausage. The crux is between the second and third bolts but the pump continues all the way to the top. John Fisher, 1992.">Start near The Winking Sausage. The crux is between the second and third bolts but the pump continues all the way to the top. John Fisher, 1992.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="24" length="" name="The Winking Sausage"
        new="false" number="1." stars="***"
        value="Another pumper. Use a #2 friend on the way to the first bolt. Another #2 can be used after the third bolt. John Fisher, 1992.">Another pumper. Use a #2 friend on the way to the first bolt. Another #2 can be used after the third bolt. John Fisher, 1992.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="22" length="" name="Rhythm Rude Girl"
        new="false" number="2." stars="***"
        value="Yes this one is pumpy too. A cammer can be placed in a horizontal break before the first bolt. John Fisher, 1992.">Yes this one is pumpy too. A cammer can be placed in a horizontal break before the first bolt. John Fisher, 1992.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="" name="The Rapist" new="false"
        number="3."
        stars="*">Climbs the overhanging crack in the corner. Tony McKenny.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="" name="Happy Hooker" new="false"
        number="4."
        stars="">Follow the thin crack in the wall right of The Rapist then traverse right to join the top crack of Nubile Nymph. Mick Ling.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="19" length="" name="Lazy Lob" new="false"
        number="5." stars="**"
        value="Steep and cranky. Four bolts plus a few cammers in horizontal breaks. John Fisher, 1992.">Steep and cranky. Four bolts plus a few cammers in horizontal breaks. John Fisher, 1992.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="25" length=""
        name="The Crimson Tipped Crumpet Plunger" new="false"
        number="6." stars="**"
        value="Tweekier than the other hard routes here but not as steep. Take a few small cammers for the easy ground at the top. John Fisher, 1992">Tweekier than the other hard routes here but not as steep. Take a few small cammers for the easy ground at the top. John Fisher, 1992</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="" name="Nubile Nymph" new="false"
        number="7."
        stars="*">Lay-back the clean-cut crack. N.Williams.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="14" length="" name="Gornuphere" new="false"
        number="8." stars="">The easy line.</climb><climb extra=""
        grade="14" length="" name="Puberty Rites" new="false"
        number="9."
        stars="**">Climb the corner. An excellent and varied pitch. N.Williams.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="14" length="" name="The Slit" new="false"
        number="10."
        stars="">The right wall, with many horizontal joints, is split by a deep groove. Follow this to the tree. Neal Smith.</climb><climb
        extra="6B" grade="15" length="" name="Condom Power" new="false"
        number="11." stars="**"
        value="Now an excellent beginners clip-up. Six bolts. Re-bolted and renamed by John (Hilti-man) Fisher. Yes, I know, it was a very naughty thing to do. He deserves a jolly good spanking. Tony (condom power) McKenny.">Great climbing on the wall L of the Dog Wall. Now an excellent beginners clip-up. Six bolts and DBB. Retro-bolted by John (Hilti-man) Fisher. Yes, I know, it was a very naughty thing to do. He deserves a jolly good spanking. Tony (condom power) McKenny.</climb><text
        class="heading3" new="false"
        number="null.">Dog Wall</text><image new="false" noPrint="false"
        src="DogWall.jpg" width=""/><climb extra="Þ" grade="27"
        length="" name="The Dog's Coif" new="false" number="1."
        stars="***"
        value="Independent, and just right of, the arete. John Fisher, Dec/93.">Independent, and just right of, the arête. John Fisher. Dec, 1993.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="26" length="" name="Dog's Knob" new="false"
        number="2." stars="***"
        value="Way steep. A magnificent line. The climb was originally bolted by Simon Mentz who then didn't have time to work it. John Fisher, 1992.">Way steep. A magnificent line. The climb was originally bolted by Simon Mentz who then didn't have time to work it. Use a nut below the first bolt. John Fisher, 1992.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="25" length="" name="The Butcher's Dog"
        new="false" number="3." stars="***"
        value="Another steep test-piece from the dude with the Hilti. John Fisher, 1992.">The RH line. Another steep test-piece from the dude with the Hilti. John Fisher, 1992.</climb><text
        class="heading3" new="false"
        number="null.">Eastern Cove</text><text class="text"
        new="false">Two lines have been added on the eastern cliffs, on the other side of the valley from Corruption Wall, and there is probably scope for more in the area if you are willing to walk. </text><climb
        extra="" grade="15" length=" " name="Metamorphosis" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">Steep crack and small roof on the largest face of this cliff. Tony McKenny, Nick Williams.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="10" length=" " name="Hard Cheddar" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">Slab then wall to R. Tony McKenny, Nick Williams.</climb><text
        class="heading3" new="false">West End</text><text class="text"
        new="false">From the west end of Sisters Beach, scramble north west from the boat ramp for ten minutes, passing some slabby smooth sections, to a squat semi-detached pinnacle about 20 metres high, with a very overhanging northwest face. 
</text><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="23" length="20m" name="Cape Crusader"
        new="false" number="" stars="***">Climb steeply on great holds and solid rock to a rest beneath a horizontal roof. Swing out madly to a flared jam and up to a DBB on the very lip of the roof. 6 bolts. Nick Hancock and Andrew Geeves. Nov, 2006. 
</climb><There is no camping at Sisters Beach. The campground at Boat Harbour is quite good but about 10 km away." autonumber="true"/>  
  <text id="85" class="heading3">Crag Steward</text>  
  <text id="86" class="text">Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (sistersbeachrockycape@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.</text>  
  <gps id="2"> 
    <point code="SIS000" description="Sisters Beach - car park" easting="380706" height="0" northing="5469698" zone="55H" latitude="-40.91513" longitude="145.58339" pid="0"/>  
    <point pid="1" description="Sisters Beach - Fly Buttress" latitude="-40.91596" longitude="145.58708" easting="381018" northing="5469611" zone="55H"/>  
    <point pid="2" description="Sisters Beach - Keyhole" latitude="-40.91635" longitude="145.58649" easting="380969" northing="5469566" zone="55H"/>  
    <point pid="3" description="Sisters Beach - Corruption Wall" latitude="-40.91655" longitude="145.58665" easting="380983" northing="5469544" zone="55H"/> 
  </gps>  
  <image noPrint="false" src="sisters beach map.png" width="" id="3" height="467"/>  
  <text class="heading2" id="4">Carpark Buttress</text>  
  <text class="text" id="5">This crag is on the hillside above the carpark and to the R of the walking track.</text>  
  <image id="72" src="Nose Route.jpg" height="450" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Carpark Buttress" legendx="7" legendy="9"> 
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    </drawing>  
    <legend> 
      <climb>6</climb> 
    </legend> 
  </image>  
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="15m" name="Nose Route" number="1." stars="*" id="6" fa="Nic Deka, Neale Smith, 29 Apr 1981.">Line just L of the nose of the buttress. Strenuous.</climb>  
  <text class="heading2" id="7">Fly Buttress</text>  
  <text class="text" id="8">The topo basically says it all. Pretty much all the routes were done by Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Tony McKenny and Nick Williams in the late seventies. The notable exceptions are Robert Staszewski's ascent of Sunshine (23) and Sam Edwards' Wuss 'n' Boots (22). There is a somewhat dodgy looking abseil chain above Superfly, or just walk off easily to the left. Suspect U bolt DBBs removed Jan 2018.</text>  
  <image id="73" src="Fly Wall.jpg" height="750" width="1000" legend="true" legendTitle="Fly Buttress"> 
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    <legend> 
      <climb>10</climb>  
      <climb>11</climb>  
      <climb>12</climb>  
      <climb>13</climb>  
      <climb>14</climb>  
      <climb>15</climb>  
      <climb>88</climb>  
      <climb>16</climb>  
      <climb>17</climb>  
      <climb>18</climb>  
      <climb>20</climb>  
      <climb>21</climb>  
      <climb>22</climb> 
    </legend> 
  </image>  
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="" name="Fly Blown" number="2." stars="" id="10" fa="Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Nick Williams.">Strenuous fist crack L of roof. A sandbag.</climb>  
  <climb id="87" stars="**" extra="" number="3." name="Fly Over" length="25m" grade="18" fa="Chris Arvier, Jake Hood">Climb Fly Blown then traverse R under the roof, finishing as for Try, Fly or Die (or wherever you please). Nice long traverse on good rock and gear.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="" name="Wuss 'n'  Boots" number="4." stars="*" id="11" fa="Sam Edwards.">Just to the R, through the roof.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="" name="March Fly" number="5." stars="*" id="12" fa="Dennis Kearnes 1992.">Starts up Superfly, then goes L under roof. Superseded by Return Ticket.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="" name="Mortein" number="6." stars="" id="13" fa="Nic Deka, Neale Smith.">Superfly to roof, then L line.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="" name="Superfly (the Movie)" number="7." stars="***" id="14" fa="Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Nick Williams.">The classic of the cliff. Up the crack below the middle of the big roof, then direct through roof on big jugs and heel hooks. DBB.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="" name="Try, Fly or Die" number="8." stars="*" id="15" fa="Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Nick Williams.">Another Superfly variant. Traverse R under roof.</climb>  
  <climb id="88" stars="**" extra="" number="9." name="Return Ticket" length="30" grade="21" fa="Chris Arvier, Jake Hood. ">Clip the carrot on Sunshine, then move up to roof and traverse L the entire length of the cliff, finishing as for Fly Blown.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="" name="Sunshine" number="10." stars="*" id="16" fa="Robert Stazsewski, Tony McKenny.">Through roofs to R. Originally led on gear, but now sporting a carrot and a FH of unknown origin.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="" name="Pigs Can Fly" number="11." stars="*" id="17" fa="Nick Williams and Tony McKenny (originally with one point of aid), FFA: Nic Deka, Neale Smith, 1980.">Next crack, going L at top and finishing beside Sunshine.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="8" length="" name="Fly Paper" number="12." stars="" id="18" fa="Tony McKenny.">Broken wall R of main cliff.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="" length="7" name="Fly Blows Uncle" number="13." stars="" id="20" fa="Tony McKenny and Nick Williams.">The dirty corner.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="7" length="" name="Fly Blows Aunt" number="14." stars="" id="19" fa="Tony McKenny and Nick Williams.">Crack to the R of Uncle.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="11" length="" name="Son of Superfly (Maggot)" number="15." stars="*" id="21" fa="Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Nick Williams.">The clean crack.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="" name="Midge" number="16." stars="" id="22" fa="Tony McKenny.">Short wall to the R and then over small overhang.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="" name="Fly Arete" number="17." stars="" id="23" fa="Neale Smith, Nick Williams.">Arête and wall R of Midge.</climb>  
  <text class="heading3" id="24">The Keyhole</text>  
  <text class="text" id="25">As you walk into the crag, you will emerge at a small patch of scree after about 5 mins. Walk up this and follow path to the Keyhole. It consists of a short ramp up to a large chock stone with a human-sized passage that lets you through to the east side of the crag. From there you take a L and emerge at Corruption Wall. There are two climbs on the R, just before you enter the Keyhole.</text>  
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Battle on New Years Eve" number="18." stars="*" id="26" fa="Andrew Chang, Andrew Arnold ">The climb takes the obvious overhanging arête (approx 10m high) on the block to your R as you walk up the ramp to the Keyhole. Natural gear (take a variety of cams - the pro is surprisingly bomber).</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="10m" name="Gap Filler" number="19." stars="*" id="27" fa="Neale Smith, Mick Ling, Oct 1982. Retro bolts (c2005) removed in 2015.">Overhanging thin crack on RH wall of the gully, just before you scramble through the gap in the ridge to Corruption Wall.</climb>  
  <text class="heading3" id="29">Seaside Buttress</text>  
  <text class="text" id="30">The small buttress in front of Fly Buttress by the sea, split by a deep gully. Approach by walking down to the water from the small patch of scree just before Fly Buttress. Follow the coast to the gully, the climbs are on the steep walls either side.</text>  
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length=" " name="Ling's Wall" number="20." stars="" id="31" fa="Tony McKenny, Mick Ling.">Wall L of gully.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length=" " name="Bird's Corner" number="21." stars="" id="32" fa=" Robert Hamilton, Fred Dutton.">Corner on west side of buttress.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="" name="Right Hand Corner" number="22." stars="" id="33" fa="Mick Ling."/>  
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length=" " name="Staszewski's Crack" number="23." stars="" id="34" fa="Robert Staszewski, Tony McKenny 1981.">Crack splitting wall R of large gully and on the front of the buttress.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length=" " name="Blow Job" number="24." stars="" id="35" fa="Nic Deka, Bruce Cameron, Neale Smith.">On western face of buttress.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length=" " name="Hand Job" number="25." stars="" id="36" fa="Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Robert Hamilton, Apr 1982.">Next route R.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="10" length=" " name="Easy Ramp Route" number="26." stars="" id="37" fa="Robert Hamilton, Nic Deka, Neale Smith 12 Apr 1982.">Easy ramp on RH side of buttress.</climb>  
  <text class="heading2" id="38">Corruption Wall</text>  
  <text class="text" id="39">This was briefly a centre for Tasmanian sport climbing (yeah, I know, doesn't say much does it?). The routes added by John Fisher are brilliant - and user friendly too. The sport routes were fully rebolted in Jan 2018, all with DBBs at the top. You can also walk off down a steep gully to the R (N) of the cliff, by "Hundstage", but walk off via this route is discouraged to avoid erosion at the base of dog wall.</text>  
  <image id="74" src="Corruption Wall.jpg" height="750" width="1000" legend="true" legendx="816" legendy="13" legendTitle="Corruption Wall"> 
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    </drawing>  
    <legend> 
      <climb>46</climb>  
      <climb>47</climb>  
      <climb>48</climb>  
      <climb>85</climb>  
      <climb>76</climb>  
      <climb>49</climb>  
      <climb>77</climb>  
      <climb>50</climb>  
      <climb>51</climb>  
      <climb>52</climb>  
      <climb>79</climb>  
      <climb>83</climb>  
      <climb>80</climb>  
      <climb>53</climb>  
      <climb>54</climb>  
      <climb>78</climb>  
      <climb>55</climb>  
      <climb>56</climb> 
    </legend> 
  </image>  
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="10m" name="Bulging Balls" number="27." stars="" id="28" fa="Nic Deka, Neale Smith, 17 Apr 1982. Retrobolts removed Jan 2018.">About 30m L of where you scramble through the gap in the ridge is a bulging roof with a triangular wall under it. Hand traverse along the triangular wall until able to pull over the bulge, then straight up the wall above.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="10m" name="Carnal Knowledge" number="28." stars="" id="41" fa="Robert Hamilton.">From an ascending grassy ramp, follow a clean cut lay-back crack. Bear R at the top.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="10" name="Fourplay" id="42" fa="Tony McKenny." stars="" number="29." length="10m">The chimney.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="24" length="15m" name="Roll on Responsibility" number="30." stars="**" id="43" fa="Nic Deka, Neale Smith 1987.">Sustained overhanging crack up wall to R of Fourplay. A local test piece.</climb>  
  <climb extra="4Þ" grade="24" length="15m" name="Sister Superior" number="31." stars="**" id="44" fa="Nick Hancock and  Andrew Geeves, Nov 2006.">Climb the steep wall just right of Roll on Responsibility, on good holds.</climb>  
  <climb extra="4Þ ↓ " grade="25" length="15m" name="The Purple Veined Junket Pumper" number="32." stars="***" id="45" fa="John Fisher, 1992.">Start near The Winking Sausage. The crux is between the second and third bolts but the pump continues all the way to the top.</climb>  
  <climb extra="5Þ ↓ " grade="24" length="15m" name="The Winking Sausage" number="33." stars="**" id="46" fa="John Fisher, 1992.">The line left of RRG. Over the bulges on mostly positive holds, trending left and up after 3rd bolt. Another excellent pumper.</climb>  
  <climb extra="6Þ ↓ " grade="22" length="15m" name="Rhythm Rude Girl" number="34." stars="***" id="47" fa="John Fisher, 1992.">One of life's essential experiences. Follow the incipient seam to the top. Yes this one is pumpy too.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="15m" name="La Petite Mort" number="35." stars="*" id="48" fa="Tony McKenny (late 1970s)">Climbs the overhanging crack in the corner. Take care with securing the last runner at the lip! nb: name changed in 2025 after FA party and community consultation.</climb>  
  <climb id="76" stars="**" extra="4Þ↓" number="36." name="Harzweg" length="15m" grade="18" fa="Henry Lindner, 2018">Climb the crack off "Happy Hooker" to the small roof and straight up.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="20m" name="Happy Hooker" number="37." stars="" id="49" fa="Mick Ling.">Follow the thin crack in the wall right of The Rapist then traverse right to join the top crack of Nubile Nymph.</climb>  
  <climb id="77" stars="**" extra="4Þ↓" number="38." name="Sachsenweg" length="15m" grade="17" fa="Henry Lindner, 2018">Climb to first bolt two metres left of "Lazy Lob" and then straight up.</climb>  
  <climb extra="5Þ ↓ " grade="19" length="15m" name="Lazy Lob" number="39." stars="***" id="50" fa="John Fisher, 1992.">Steep, cranky and excellent. Solo easily up the broken corner to the first bolt then launch up the steep wall. Catch a brief rest on the slab before an exciting finish on good holds up the rounded arete.</climb>  
  <climb extra="4Þ ↓ " grade="25" length="15m" name="The Crimson Tipped Crumpet Plunger" number="40." stars="**" id="51" fa="John Fisher, 1992">Tweekier than the other hard routes here but not as steep.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="15m" name="Nubile Nymph" number="41." stars="*" id="52" fa="N.Williams.">Lay-back the clean-cut crack.</climb>  
  <climb id="79" stars="**" extra="2Þ ↓" number="42." name="Variant of Nubile Nymph" length="15m" grade="16" fa="Henry Lindner 2019">Climb the excellent crack of "Nubile Nymph" and then straight up the wall (two bolts) to the chain. &lt;br/&gt;</climb>  
  <climb id="83" stars="**" extra="5Þ ↓" number="43." name="The Sausage Boys" length="15" grade="17" fa="Henry Lindner 2019">Start 2 meter right of "Nubile Nymph" first meter easy climb, the top looks difficult.</climb>  
  <climb id="80" stars="**" extra="3Þ ↓" number="44." name="Doggy Style" length="15m" grade="19" fa="Henry Lindner 2019">3 meter right of "Nubile Nymph", climb the easy crack up to the arret passing 3 bolts.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="15m" name="Gornuphere" number="45." stars="" id="53" fa="">The easy line.</climb>  
  <climb extra="↓" grade="14" length="15m" name="Puberty Rites" number="46." stars="**" id="54" fa="N.Williams.">Climb the corner. An excellent and varied pitch. (lower off from "Abendweg")</climb>  
  <climb id="78" stars="**" extra="6Þ ↓" number="47." name="Abendweg" length="15m" grade="16" fa="Henry Lindner, 2018">Start 2 meter right of the „Puberty Rites“ Climb the bolted line straight up to the belay.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="15m" name="The Slit" number="48." stars="" id="55" fa="Neale Smith.">The right wall, with many horizontal joints, is split by a deep groove. Follow this to the top.</climb>  
  <climb extra="6Þ ↓ " grade="15" length="15m" name="Condom Power" number="49." stars="**" id="56" fa="Tony McKenny. Retro-bolted by John (Hilti-man) Fisher. Yes, I know, it was a very naughty thing to do. He deserves a jolly good spanking. ">Great climbing on the wall L of the Dog Wall. Now an excellent beginners clip-up.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>  
  <text class="heading3" id="57">Dog Wall</text>  
  <text id="84" class="text">The climbs on Dog Wall are currently closed pending Aboriginal Heritage assessment. Foot traffic past the base of this wall is also to be avoided.</text>  
  <image id="75" src="Dog Wall.JPG" height="450" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Dog Wall" legendx="420" legendy="16"> 
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      <rect id="99797" x="77" y="255" width="236" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="the climbs on dog wall are currently closed"/> 
    </drawing>  
    <legend> 
      <climb>59</climb>  
      <climb>60</climb>  
      <climb>61</climb>  
      <climb>81</climb> 
    </legend> 
  </image>  
  <climb extra="4Þ ↓ " grade="27" length="15m" name="The Dogs Coif" number="50." stars="***" id="59" fa=" John Fisher, Dec 1993.">Independent, and just right of, the arête.</climb>  
  <climb extra="4Þ ↓ " grade="26" length="15m" name="Dogs Knob" number="51." stars="***" id="60" fa="John Fisher, 1992.">Way steep. A magnificent line. The climb was originally bolted by Simon Mentz who then didn't have time to work it.</climb>  
  <climb extra="4Þ ↓ " grade="25" length="15m" name="The Butchers Dog" number="52." stars="***" id="61" fa="John Fisher, 1992.">The RH line. Another steep test-piece from Dr Fisher.</climb>  
  <climb id="81" stars="**" extra="5Þ ↓" number="53." name="Hundstage" length="15m" grade="20" fa="Henry Lindner 2019">Next right of "The Butchers Dog" climb the arête passing 5 bolts to the belay.</climb>  
  <text class="heading2" id="62">Eastern Cove</text>  
  <text class="text" id="63">Two lines have been added on the eastern cliffs, on the other side of the valley from Corruption Wall, and there is probably scope for more in the area if you are willing to walk.</text>  
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length=" " name="Metamorphosis" number="54." stars="" id="64" fa="Tony McKenny, Nick Williams.">Steep crack and small roof on the largest face of this cliff.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="10" length=" " name="Hard Cheddar" number="55." stars="" id="65" fa="Tony McKenny, Nick Williams.">Slab then wall to R.</climb>  
  <text class="heading2" id="66">West End</text>  
  <text class="text" id="67">From the west end of Sisters Beach, scramble north west from the boat ramp for ten minutes, passing some slabby smooth sections, to a squat semi-detached pinnacle about 20 metres high, with a very overhanging northwest face.</text>  
  <climb extra="6Þ ↓ " grade="23" length="20m" name="Cape Crusader" number="56." stars="***" id="68" fa="Nick Hancock and Andrew Geeves, Nov 2006.">Climb steeply on great holds and solid rock to a rest beneath a horizontal roof. Swing out madly to a flared jam and up to a DBB on the very lip of the roof. 6 bolts.</climb>  
  <text class="heading2" id="69">Lee-Archer Cave</text>  
  <text class="text" id="70">this area is closed pending heritage assessment. &lt;br/&gt;Take the track from the carpark at the west end of Sisters Beach, signposted to Lee-Archer Cave and Anniversary Bay</text>  
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="35m" name="Necropolis" number="57." stars="" id="71" fa="M. and H. Jackson, Dec 1992.">&lt;br/&gt;This climb is closed pending heritage assessment. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Starting just to the R of the cave, climb to the bush at about 5m. Continue directly up the centre of the slightly overhung, diamond shaped face on okay pro in less than okay rock. A sloping ramp in an exposed position leads rather scarily to a bush at top.</climb> 
</guide>