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...
Ben
...
Lomond
...
is
...
a
...
world
...
quality
...
crag,
...
but
...
sees
...
relatively
...
few
...
climbers.
...
This
...
is
...
due
...
to
...
several
...
factors;
...
the
...
seriousness
...
of
...
the
...
climbing;
...
the
...
alpine
...
environment
...
and
...
the
...
associated
...
bad
...
weather;
...
and
...
the
...
lack
...
of
...
a
...
guidebook
...
to
...
the
...
area.
...
The
...
classic
...
routes
...
on
...
Frew's
...
Flutes
...
are
...
unique
...
in
...
Australia.
...
Extremely
...
regular
...
and
...
soaring
...
dolerite
...
columns
...
generate
...
the
...
hand
...
and
...
finger
...
cracks
...
from
...
hell.
...
The
...
cliffs
...
are
...
up
...
to
...
200m
...
high
...
and
...
the
...
extremely
...
sustained
...
routes
...
require
...
solid
...
commitment.
...
The
...
most
...
visited
...
cliffs
...
are
...
above
...
Carr
...
Villa
...
on
...
the
...
northern
...
end
...
of
...
the
...
Ben
...
Lomond
...
plateau,
...
including
...
the
...
Pavillion,
...
Frew's
...
Flutes,
...
Local
...
Loser
...
and
...
Heathcliffe.
...
If
...
these
...
huge
...
cliffs
...
don't
...
keep
...
you
...
occupied
...
then
...
there
...
are
...
also
...
more
...
remote
...
crags
...
all
...
around
...
the
...
edge
...
of
...
the
...
plateau
...
such
...
as
...
Stack's
...
Bluff,
...
Pavement
...
Bluff,
...
Ragged
...
Jack
...
and
...
Africa.
...
Access
From Launceston drive through St Leonards and take the Ben Lomond road (C401).
...
After
...
30-40
...
minutes
...
turn
...
right
...
on
...
the
...
gravel
...
C432
...
and
...
just
...
after
...
the
...
toll
...
booth
...
turn
...
right
...
towards
...
Carr
...
Villa
...
and
...
park
...
at
...
the
...
end
...
of
...
the
...
road
...
at
...
the
...
Scout
...
Hut.
...
Up
...
to
...
the
...
left
...
is
...
the
...
Pavillion,
...
about
...
20
...
minutes
...
walk.
...
Straight
...
above
...
Carr
...
Villa
...
at
...
the
...
top
...
of
...
the
...
scree
...
is
...
the
...
interesting
...
Local
...
Loser
...
cliff.
...
The
...
huge
...
columnar
...
cliff
...
off
...
to
...
the
...
right
...
is
...
Frew's
...
Flutes
...
which
...
is
...
accessed
...
by
...
a
...
30
...
minute
...
walk
...
across
...
the
...
scree,
...
either
...
stay
...
high
...
or
...
low
...
to
...
avoid
...
scrub.
...
The
...
cliff
...
further
...
right
...
of
...
the
...
Flutes
...
with
...
the
...
weird
...
architecture
...
is
...
Heathcliffe.
...
Rock
Huge dolerite columns. Although the cracks are surprisingly smooth (for dolerite), taping up is very sensible. There is a strong anti-bolting ethic at these cliffs. Bring as many cams as you can muster, as the parallel cracks eat them up. The abseil descent on Robin's Buttress requires double ropes. All the cliffs near Carr Villa face North, and so receive sun until late afternoon.
Camping
Near the Carr Villa scout hut. National Park entrance fees apply. There is also a climber's hut a few hundred metres before you get to Carr Villa, down the hill a bit on the left. Most local climbers day trip from Launceston.
Guide
None in print. Hassle Bob McMahon until he writes one (slated for 2005). There is a rough topo of the Flutes and Local Loser in Craglets 6, as well as some info on Ragged Jack.
Season
Ben Lomond is covered in snow and ice for the winter. The climbing season starts around November and usually ends around April. The best chance of good weather is December to March.
Rest Days
There is good walking up on the Ben Lomond Plateau, and if you are there in spring there might be some snow about. The North Esk, at the base of the mountain, has good rafting and kayaking. Otherwise head to Launceston and try to find some fun there (maybe).
The Wilderness Society is currently running a campaign to increase the size of the Ben Lomond National Park. As part of this they are promoting a self drive tour through the Razorback forests. They have produced a brochure detailing the tour, and the significance of the forests, that can be obtained from The Launceston Wilderness Society Shop, 174 Charles Street, Launceston, phone 03 6334 2499.
Classics
Rigaudon (20), Rajah (18), Defender of the Faith (21), Aquilla (21), Rock a Day Johnny (18), William Zanzinger (16).
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