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<guide> <header id="1" name="turrakana - Tasman Peninsula" walk="5 minutes to multiple days" sun="All day" rock="Vast sea cliffs - mostly dolerite" acknowledgement="" intro="turrakana / Tasman Peninsula is home to an absolute plethora of climbing. Most notably, the peninsula is home to the world famous sea pillar of the Totem Pole, the tallest (300m) sea cliffs in Australia at Cape Pillar, as well as a host of other incredible sea cliffs and stacks. There's a great variety of climbing on the Penisula from adventurous multi-pitch, some of the State's best sport climbing, or relaxed cragging." history="" access="South of the canal at Dunalley marks the beginning of the Peninsula proper, though most of the accessible climbing is South of Eaglehawk Neck ~1.5 hours drive on the from Hobart via the Arthur Highway." camping="Great camping and facilities exist at the serene Fortescue Bay, within the National Park. Summer is busy here so ring ahead to book a camp-site (about $10 a night). There are other campsites and hotels scattered amongst the Peninsula, but Fortescue is probably your closest and best bet." autonumber="true"/> <text id="16" class="heading3">Crag Steward</text> <text id="17" class="text">Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (tasmanpeninsula@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.<br/><br/>Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.</text> <text id="6" class="heading2">Guide</text> <text id="7" class="text">Despite sea cliffs wrapping around much of the coastline, the climbing is focused around the major capes and bays where access has historically been easiest, and this is how the guide has been split-up. Individual access is described in each section.<br/><br/>- Fortescue Bay / Cape Hauy / Cape Nola - Home to the triptych of classic sea spires, as well as a multitude of adventurous sea-cliff climbing from multi-pitch to relaxed cragging.<br/>- Mt. Brown - Home to some of the States best sport climbing at the Paradiso, as well as adventurous sport and trad lines on the main face of Mt. Brown and surrounds.<br/>- Cape Raoul - A traverse not to be missed. Home to adventurous trad and the best grade 22 sport climb in the known universe (Pole Dancer).<br/>- Cape Pillar - Extreme adventure trad. Read the history section for some harrowing tales of adventure.<br/>- Forestier Peninsula - Remote and difficult to access. Much yet to be explored.</text> <text id="14" class="heading2">Rock</text> <text id="15" class="text">The peninsula has a complete abundance of dolerite. Sedimentary rocks of sandstone and siltstone are also abundant, but are usually complete choss. The climbing on the dolerite sea cliffs here is quite different from the alpine dolerite found inland. Whilst soaring splitter cracks are still common, the ocean-influenced weathering processes form unique and interesting flake-like features.<br/><br/>The rock quality on the Peninsula dolerite varies considerably. There can often be a light crust on the sea-cliffs which can take some getting used to. Water washed rock from the sea or overland flow provides the best quality rock (visit the Paradiso for the best examples of this). Be particularly mindful of loose rock on top-outs and the occasional precarious block even on heavily trafficked routes.</text> <text id="3" class="heading2">Safety</text> <text id="2" class="text">Serious consideration should be given to the often remote and exposed nature of climbing here. Loose rock, swell affected belay ledges and the inability for easy and quick rescue is common. It is worth noting there have been a increasing number of rescues and accidents involving climbers in the modern era, some of which involved inexperience as a factor, so it is important to factor in the exposed and inaccessible nature of all the spires in particular, which makes self-rescue much more difficult. The grade does not always reflect the serious nature of some of the climbing here - so read descriptions carefully and plan well.<br/><br/>In general:<br/>- Fix a rope as an escape line when abseiling-in / climbing-out on the sea-cliffs. Make sure to protect sharp edges that might be subject to sawing from jugging-out. There have been numerous misses from inexperienced parties core-shotting their fixed lines when escaping in the past few years.<br/>- The weather is unpredictable and the wind can be ferocious, pack accordingly.<br/>- Suspect blocks should be treated as such. Beware of suddenly exploding holds and flakes in friable rock.<br/>- Tell someone trustworthy where you are and when you plan to be back. Pack a head-torch!</text> <text id="8" class="heading2">Season</text> <text id="9" class="text">Most of the climbing on the Peninsula depends on swell size more than anything. Generally the swell is bigger in winter, but there is nothing south between the Totem Pole and Antarctica, so big swells are possible (and even likely) all times of the year. <br/><br/>- The Totem Pole and Candlestick are located in a deep, shady, chasm and only get sunlight for a couple of hours a day, so the summer months are best for an attempt.<br/>- The cliffs and crags around Fortescue Bay are good year-round, as they are often sheltered from the prevailing Westerlies and catch the morning sun.<br/>- The Paradiso is best in summer. Climbing is hard here in Winter due to the spooge factor and larger swells.<br/></text> <text id="10" class="heading2">Rest Days</text> <text id="12" class="text">There are some great coastal walks on the Peninsula that take in some spectacular scenery. Cape Raoul and Cape Pillar are great, and the walk out to Cape Hauy to contemplate the singularity of the Totem Pole is a must even if you don't plan on attempting the thing. There are also some funky caves and other natural features that don't require walking, including Tasman Arch, Remarkable Cave, and the Tessalated Pavement at Eaglehawk Neck. The Port Arthur historic site is a grim reminder of Tasmania's history as the penal colony of Van Dieman's Land and is worth a look.</text> <text id="13" class="heading2">Climbing Tick List</text> <text id="11" class="text">The classics by area.<br/><br/>Mt. Brown:<br/>15 - Dauntless<br/>16 - Stone Biter<br/>17 - Inferno<br/>19 - The Offerings, Starfish Arete<br/>22 - Too Tall Oxen, Aquaphobia, Psycho-Man<br/>23 - Time Goes Bye, Thriller, Rime of the Ancient Mariner, Wagon Wheel Express, Baryshnikov<br/>24 - Offender of the Faith, Talk is Cheap, No Contest<br/>25 - Sultan of Sweat, Retrograde Amnesia, Partial Recall, The Horror<br/>26 - Ready Steady Go<br/>27 - Snooze and You Lose, Expendable Youth, Total Recall<br/>28 - Deja Vu<br/>29 - Captain Jack, Arrested Development<br/><br/>Fortescue Bay:<br/>17 - The Pud Life<br/>18 - Sacred Site (Moai), North West (Corner) Route (Candlestick)<br/>20 - Blunt Instrument<br/>21 - Blue Fin<br/>22 - Never Let Me Go<br/>23 - Rum on the Rocks<br/>24 - Deep Play (Totem Pole), Yak to the Future, Dr. Incognito<br/>25 - The Free Route (Totem Pole), The Edge of Reason<br/>24 - Yak to the Future, Dr. Incognito<br/>27 - The Sorcerer (Totem Pole)<br/><br/>Cape Raoul:<br/>20 - Instrument of Joy<br/>21 - Disaster Master/Pole Axed<br/>22 - Pole Dancer, Air Chrysalis<br/>23 - The Finger of Blame, Certified Wise<br/>24 - Hard-boiled Wonderland</text> </guide> |
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